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The Art of War: Miniature Modelling and Painting
Posts
And made my first grot crewman. I did the feet right after doing the hand, and because I wasn't really paying attention he only has four toes on each foot :P
I can't be bothered to do them again, so I think I'll just call him fourtoes. What do you think of the octagonal base (its a small whfb base with the corners cut off)? Still too big for gorkamorka? Any better ideas before I stick him down and paint?
That is some nice sculpting man. Did you, or anyone else for that matter, see this?
Here's the next one of the group, making ten total. I tau-ized this one, adding a shield drone to the front, and a pair of burst cannons to the side of the bike.
I am saving the sidecar / quad ideas for the Nobz bikes - one nob for each 12-biker squad. I'm making them at the end of each dozen as a sort of 'reward' for continuing the mob.
I totally might draw this later in a Napoleon Dynamite fashion.
Or are you uncomfortable with sharing which limb or organ you had to give up?
If you're asking me in reference to the bikes, it cost... well, probably a hundred and a bit. It was part of a big order I placed that I got 30% off on, and the order was 250 in total. I'm still looking for a couple more boxes on the cheap, honestly, or at least other bikes I can loot.
It really does;t take that long. In the last Apoc game I had 300 conscripts. That's just the models I had. SJ Had an entire Green Horde, plus there was an eldar player and a sisters player on our team.
These are JUST the models I had.
Unfortunately not. Grots only get a mounted gun on the big vehicles. They are supposed to be more buggy sized, but mine have evolved into something bigger.
Reading the rules of gorkamorka has made me all nostalgic about what warhammer used to be like. If a rebel grot wants a weapon upgrade, he goes to a mek and pretends to be on official business. You roll a dice, and theres a special table of hilarious calamity that can befall him on just such an occasion.
Nob next, I suppose.
Gamertag: Cunning Hekate // League of Legends: FeroxPA
Tie some blocks to his feet Ein!
I included the unpainted powerklaw so you can at least see the whole thing. I'll probably paint it tomorow when I finish working the greenstuff.
I'm thinking about mostly red for the power klaw, or a darkish green like my Tau are painted since it was made almost entirely from Tau parts. Any suggestions?
Edit: I need a camera... my phone sucks at this.
Apparently proximity to a depiction of a kitty is enough in extreme cases....
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Maine Coon?
Thanks, I'll upload some better pictures when it's actually done and attached for sure.
It's a 3-in-1 weapon! No Warboss should leave home withtout it!
Yup. Best cat ever.
Dark but in focus
Bright but out of focus!
Put together they make 1 good photo.
I see your fancy breed and raise you an an enourmous alley cat. He has a heart of gold. And FAT
First time using the new washes. They are very nice, but a bit more dilute than I'm used to. I've not sploshed away at a model in a long time.
I'm not quite happy with the base. I experimented a lot with the browns I have (bestial, graveyard earth, scorched, khemri, bleached bone, flesh wash, devlan mud) and the above was the closest I got (its 50/50 khemri bleached bone, with bb & white highlights). Its passable, but I'd prefer something closer to actual desert. Anyone got any good recipes for desert bases, or tips on new browns I should get and have a go with?
Thoughts of a Part-Time Hobbyist - A Wargaming and RPG Blog
The grot himself looks great though.
I started with all sorts of ambitious ideas for the Nob before I realized that I also intend to make a Wazdakka, and if I loaded the Nob up too much it'd be very hard to tell which one is supposed to be the character! That said, I opted for a power klaw for the Nob, but I wanted one that also looked like it could be functional for riding - I can't see an ork steering very well with klaw blades shearing through the handle bars by accident.
Anyway, I tacked that on, greenstuffed the seams a bit, made some quick hydraulics from sheet styrene, adding cabling, and that was that.
I actually made a sidecar for this at first before I decided to scrap it - I didn't like the way it was looking, and I honestly couldn't picture any sort of gun mount in my head that didn't also interfere with the positioning of the handlebars or the nob himself. I peeled that off and strapped two wheels to the sides instead for a trike type design. I've put a very basic wheel guard over them for now, but before I take it much farther I have to figure out where the guns are going on this. I may try putting them further up on the body of the bike, just behind the forks.
Anyway, I'm still going at it, but suggestions would be nice.
@Asher: Caine looks awesome. The trim fits him without getting Menoth-gaudy. How did you paint the metallic parts? It looks like it could be NMM.
gun on the back!
I'm currently in the process of putting together a "Green Tide" ork army and a normal ork Army. The goal is to finish the Green Tide first and then move on to the stuff I need for the regular army (mainly trucks and some elites)
In order to finish off the Green Tide army I need to construct the following:
48 Slugga Boys
58 Shoota Boys
15 Boys with Rockkits
5 Nobs
9 Loota Boys
3 Meks with Rockkets
The goal is to get all of that together and primed by next Saturday so I can test out the army against a friend.
Painting will take place afterward over the course of a couple of months. That being said, my real issue is with painting. I've come up with a color scheme that I like for the orks but it's fairly complex and requires a lot of drybrushing (pictures to come later).
I've never really mastered the art of non-drybrush painting. I've painted up a Dark Angels and Deathwing army all using drybrushing and both armies came out looking rather nice. The idea of highlighting using layers just doesn't gel with me. I mean, I get the theory (I guess) but the practice of it doesn't really make sense:
Start with a basecoat
Thin another color and paint over the basecoat, leaving some areas of the basecoat exposed
Thin another color and paint over the previous layer, leaving some of it exposed.
The issues I have are:
1) How much should I thin each coat of paint?
2) I feel like my artistic ability to leave each previous coat exposed probably isn't all that great. I just imagine that my efforts at this will come off looking stiff with lots of rather obvious layers. Besides, how much does one leave exposed?
So, if there are any masters of this layering technique out there I'd really appreciate a detailed tutorial because I'd like to at least try painting my army that way. I certainly have enough boys to practice on.
1 - Experiment until you find what works for you. It shouldn't be so thick that you get 100% coverage, but it shouldn't be so thin that you can't tell the difference after you've done it. Everything in between depends on style, colour and circumstances.
2 - To start off with, drybrush a model and look at which areas get touched by the paint. Then try to paint these areas in instead of drybrushing. When you get more confident you can try picking out areas that you want to accentuate to create detail that doesn't exist and directional lighting. (this is where the real strength of layering lies).
eg. For the grot skin I posted above:
-I started the skin off with catachan green
-Followed up by painting the areas that a thorough drybrushing would reach with goblin/catachan green mix.
-Then painted the areas a light drybrushing would reach with goblin green.
-Then finished off by picking out areas I wanted to accentuate (cheekbones, top of nose, brow, knuckles) with goblin green mixed with yellow and white.
I didn't dilute the paints very much apart from the last two stages, because its faster not to. This does lead to the layers being more noticeable though, like on the tan bits of the back of his robe. The more dilute the smoother it will look, but the more layers you will need to apply to reach the same colour. Personally I'm not bothered if the layers are a little obvious for most models, and if they are adding an additional highlight or a glaze will usually fix it.
And one without the rider, so you can get a better look of the assembly on the back of the bike:
I need to add some battle damage and maybe some more up front, too, like headlights on either side of the forks. I'd also like to work a little more on his power fist to properly sell the concept. I think the Nob'z bike has turned out decent so far, though.
However, the model looks damn good already, and if I could convert even half as well as you I would be joyous.