The new forums will be named Coin Return (based on the most recent vote)! You can check on the status and timeline of the transition to the new forums here.
The Guiding Principles and New Rules document is now in effect.

I Want To Ride My Bicycle [Bike Thread]

1246744

Posts

  • Mike DangerMike Danger "Diane..." a place both wonderful and strangeRegistered User regular
    edited June 2008
    Good to hear--I've got nut-and-bolt wheels. Thanks.

    Mike Danger on
    Steam: Mike Danger | PSN/NNID: remadeking | 3DS: 2079-9204-4075
    oE0mva1.jpg
  • dlinfinitidlinfiniti Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    celery77 wrote: »
    Shout out to Campbell, CA -- that's my hometown!

    I fucking hate riding bikes there, though. The cars are atrocious and none of the roads are bike friendly. I stick to the Los Gatos trail as much as humanly possible when I find myself unfortunate enough to be back there.

    los gatos/saratoga is generally a bike friendly town. (the bike lanes on hwy 9 are ginormous). Los Gatos Creek trail is always a good choice though cause going all the way to Lexington resevoir is pretty cool. Whats your bikeshop of choice? I like the Off Ramp in Santa Clara on El Camino

    dlinfiniti on
    AAAAA!!! PLAAAYGUUU!!!!
  • Whiniest Man On EarthWhiniest Man On Earth Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    Cable locks suck balls, though, and you really should invest the money in a U-lock. You don't have to drop $50 on them, some of the OG branded ones are cheaper and have a long enough shackle to fit through just about anything.

    japan, the grinding noise from your rear hub is likely shitty bearings. You can get the hub rebuilt and it will go away. Mavic mtb wheels are awesome, I love me the Crossmax. Don't know about the lower end ones, though.

    As for the impotence thing being a myth... Andy Pruitt would like a word. It's not entirely factual, but it's not entirely a myth, either. Saddles can press against your arteries and reduce bloodfloow to your junk, which can lead to decreased function over time. This is why you only ever want your sitbones to touch your saddle.

    Whiniest Man On Earth on
  • TheMarshalTheMarshal Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    Okay, bike lock question:

    I'm planning on riding my bike to my summer job. It's only like a 10-15 minute ride. I went out and purchased a cable lock at the Friendly Local Bike Shop, and my father came home and told me I shouldn't have bought it.

    He says the cable (6') isn't long enough--he says it's supposed to go through both wheels, or someone might nick my back tire.

    I figure that locking up the front end ought to be sufficient--it's going to be parked behind a high school building during summer vacation in a neighborhood whose crime rate is, as far as I know, nonexistent--and if worst comes to worst, no one else uses the rack, so I might be able to stretch that 6' of cable by locking it parallel to the rack rather than perpendicular.

    Am I crazy? Much as I'd like to have one, I'd really rather not spend $50 on a U-lock.

    I was told that you wanna have a U-lock and a cable lock if your bike's gonna be out of your sight for more than an hour or two. If you have quick-release wheels, take the front wheel off and sit it next to your back wheel. Use the U-Lock around the front and back wheels, and make sure that it goes through the center part of the frame. Then thread the cable lock through the entire thing (wheel then frame) and through the bike rack.

    At least that's how I remember it being told to me. Anybody?

    TheMarshal on
  • Whiniest Man On EarthWhiniest Man On Earth Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    TheMarshal wrote: »
    Okay, bike lock question:

    I'm planning on riding my bike to my summer job. It's only like a 10-15 minute ride. I went out and purchased a cable lock at the Friendly Local Bike Shop, and my father came home and told me I shouldn't have bought it.

    He says the cable (6') isn't long enough--he says it's supposed to go through both wheels, or someone might nick my back tire.

    I figure that locking up the front end ought to be sufficient--it's going to be parked behind a high school building during summer vacation in a neighborhood whose crime rate is, as far as I know, nonexistent--and if worst comes to worst, no one else uses the rack, so I might be able to stretch that 6' of cable by locking it parallel to the rack rather than perpendicular.

    Am I crazy? Much as I'd like to have one, I'd really rather not spend $50 on a U-lock.

    I was told that you wanna have a U-lock and a cable lock if your bike's gonna be out of your sight for more than an hour or two. If you have quick-release wheels, take the front wheel off and sit it next to your back wheel. Use the U-Lock around the front and back wheels, and make sure that it goes through the center part of the frame. Then thread the cable lock through the entire thing (wheel then frame) and through the bike rack.

    At least that's how I remember it being told to me. Anybody?

    Yes. This is the best way to lock your bike up, period. If you have a long shackle U-lock, you don't need a cable lock. If you have locking QR skewers, which I highly recommend to ANYONE, you don't need to take your front wheel off and you should just lock your bike up through your rear WHEEL (not frame) and whatever you're locking it too.

    Whiniest Man On Earth on
  • TheMarshalTheMarshal Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    dlinfiniti wrote: »
    celery77 wrote: »
    Shout out to Campbell, CA -- that's my hometown!

    I fucking hate riding bikes there, though. The cars are atrocious and none of the roads are bike friendly. I stick to the Los Gatos trail as much as humanly possible when I find myself unfortunate enough to be back there.

    los gatos/saratoga is generally a bike friendly town. (the bike lanes on hwy 9 are ginormous). Los Gatos Creek trail is always a good choice though cause going all the way to Lexington resevoir is pretty cool. Whats your bikeshop of choice? I like the Off Ramp in Santa Clara on El Camino

    I went to Wheel Away on Hamilton in Campbell. They seemed pretty knowledgeable, and dude steered me towards my current bike, which I'm digging.

    I'm like a block and a half away from the Los Gatos trail, and I'm trying to figure out if there's a way that I can take back roads and trails to get to work, or if I'll have to brave surface streets.

    TheMarshal on
  • japanjapan Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    defrag wrote: »
    japan, the grinding noise from your rear hub is likely shitty bearings. You can get the hub rebuilt and it will go away. Mavic mtb wheels are awesome, I love me the Crossmax. Don't know about the lower end ones, though.

    They've been rebuilt already. They're cup and cone, so that just means new ball bearings, new grease, and adjustment. I think the crap they've been ridden through has finally done for the actual bearing surfaces. The fact they're slightly out of radial true may have exacerbated this.

    This time around I'm going to get something with cartridge bearings, that are less of a pain to rebuild. It's basically down to either the Crossrides or Mavic 717 or DT Swiss rims on a hub that is still to be determined. Probably Halo Spin Doctors, I don't think I can stretch to Hope Pros.

    japan on
  • Whiniest Man On EarthWhiniest Man On Earth Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    japan wrote: »
    defrag wrote: »
    japan, the grinding noise from your rear hub is likely shitty bearings. You can get the hub rebuilt and it will go away. Mavic mtb wheels are awesome, I love me the Crossmax. Don't know about the lower end ones, though.

    They've been rebuilt already. They're cup and cone, so that just means new ball bearings, new grease, and adjustment. I think the crap they've been ridden through has finally done for the actual bearing surfaces. The fact they're slightly out of radial true may have exacerbated this.

    This time around I'm going to get something with cartridge bearings, that are less of a pain to rebuild. It's basically down to either the Crossrides or Mavic 717 or DT Swiss rims on a hub that is still to be determined. Probably Halo Spin Doctors, I don't think I can stretch to Hope Pros.

    The bearing surfaces, the races, can also be replaced if the hub allows for it. But I agree, get something with cartridge bearings if your hubs have already needed to be rebuilt and it hasn't held. DT Swiss/Halo Spins would be a good combination. What's your price range for wheels like?

    Whiniest Man On Earth on
  • GooeyGooey (\/)┌¶─¶┐(\/) pinch pinchRegistered User regular
    edited June 2008
    My road bike is a franken-bike, but I love it so much.

    An old Cannondale CAAD-5 frame
    Campy components
    Bianchi Levitation wheels/hubs
    Bianchi carbon stem/bars/fork
    Other random stuff.

    My cross bike is a Voodoo Wazoo, and I love it so much. I use a single primary and 7 on the back. I shift with an oldschool toptube lever, which gets a lot of weird looks but it works for me.

    Gooey on
    919UOwT.png
  • Whiniest Man On EarthWhiniest Man On Earth Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    Ah, the glory of the cobbled together cross bike. How much I hate trying to work on them, but how hilariously awesome it is to see what kinds of crazy shit people will put on there.

    A kid I work with just built up a Surly Karate Monkey with a 1x9 gearing... I don't get it, myself. If I'm going geared, I'm going all out or I'm sticking to ss.

    Whiniest Man On Earth on
  • GooeyGooey (\/)┌¶─¶┐(\/) pinch pinchRegistered User regular
    edited June 2008
    Hehe, when I bought it it was SS, but some weird gearing that just didn't work for me. (I also used it for a while to commute around campus.) I happened to have some old Shimano secondaries that fit, and I always wanted a suicide shifter, so there you have it. :P

    For a while I meant to upgrade the components to something more proper, but I never got around to it. Now I like it just the way that it is.

    Gooey on
    919UOwT.png
  • Whiniest Man On EarthWhiniest Man On Earth Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    My favorite SS gearing for around town is about a 42-19. For fixed, I ride a 47-17. Off road, you generally need at least a 2:1 ratio if not a little easier.

    Whiniest Man On Earth on
  • japanjapan Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    defrag wrote: »
    The bearing surfaces, the races, can also be replaced if the hub allows for it. But I agree, get something with cartridge bearings if your hubs have already needed to be rebuilt and it hasn't held. DT Swiss/Halo Spins would be a good combination. What's your price range for wheels like?

    The races aren't replaceable. To their credit, I suppose these have held up pretty well, given that they're the OEM rims that came with the bike. They have proven to be really vulnerable to crap, though (which is why I'd rather avoid cup and cone bearings)

    Budget is variable, but I'd like to keep it under £200 if possible. The problem I'm finding is that there are only a couple of options for cartridge bearing hubs below that (Halo Spin Doctors, and to a lesser extent DT 240s). The Crossrides come in a bit cheaper and lighter than a Spin Doctor build, as well as the fact that I wouldn't be running disc hubs on a V-brake equipped bike.

    japan on
  • Whiniest Man On EarthWhiniest Man On Earth Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    japan wrote: »
    defrag wrote: »
    The bearing surfaces, the races, can also be replaced if the hub allows for it. But I agree, get something with cartridge bearings if your hubs have already needed to be rebuilt and it hasn't held. DT Swiss/Halo Spins would be a good combination. What's your price range for wheels like?

    The races aren't replaceable. To their credit, I suppose these have held up pretty well, given that they're the OEM rims that came with the bike. They have proven to be really vulnerable to crap, though (which is why I'd rather avoid cup and cone bearings)

    Budget is variable, but I'd like to keep it under £200 if possible. The problem I'm finding is that there are only a couple of options for cartridge bearing hubs below that (Halo Spin Doctors, and to a lesser extent DT 240s). The Crossrides come in a bit cheaper and lighter than a Spin Doctor build, as well as the fact that I wouldn't be running disc hubs on a V-brake equipped bike.

    Disc hubs will travel with you if you ever decide to migrate over to disc brakes, though, which is something to consider. That sucks about not having replaceable races on your hubs, I fucking hate rebuilding hubs and generally just sell my wheels instead of doing it.

    Those DT hubs aren't bad, too.

    Whiniest Man On Earth on
  • ProtoProto Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    defrag wrote: »
    As for the impotence thing being a myth... Andy Pruitt would like a word. It's not entirely factual, but it's not entirely a myth, either. Saddles can press against your arteries and reduce bloodfloow to your junk, which can lead to decreased function over time. This is why you only ever want your sitbones to touch your saddle.

    I guess I meant a properly adjusted saddle. I just hear the "bicycle saddles cause impotence" myth thing all the time.

    Another thing that's related to sitbones is to stay away from overly soft saddles. They may seem comfortable when you first sit on them, but because they form to your ass they put pressure where there shouldn't be any and quickly become uncomfortable.

    Proto on
    and her knees up on the glove compartment
    took out her barrettes and her hair spilled out like rootbeer
  • Whiniest Man On EarthWhiniest Man On Earth Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    Proto wrote: »
    defrag wrote: »
    As for the impotence thing being a myth... Andy Pruitt would like a word. It's not entirely factual, but it's not entirely a myth, either. Saddles can press against your arteries and reduce bloodfloow to your junk, which can lead to decreased function over time. This is why you only ever want your sitbones to touch your saddle.

    I guess I meant a properly adjusted saddle. I just hear the "bicycle saddles cause impotence" myth thing all the time.

    Another thing that's related to sitbones is to stay away from overly soft saddles. They may seem comfortable when you first sit on them, but because they form to your ass they put pressure where there shouldn't be any and quickly become uncomfortable.

    The same thing applies to gel pads. God I hate it when people ask me for those. Yes, I will sell you one, and yes, you will use it. No, it will not make your saddle any more comfortable. Shape > padding when it comes to saddles.

    Whiniest Man On Earth on
  • DocDoc Registered User, ClubPA regular
    edited June 2008
    If anything, it should be your pants that provide the padding, right?

    Doc on
  • ProtoProto Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    Doc wrote: »
    If anything, it should be your pants that provide the padding, right?

    As long as they don't have too much padding. The best part about padded shorts or short liners or whatever is that the padding keeps your boys out of the way a little better.

    Basically you want a saddle with some give to it, but not enough that you sink into it. Brooks saddles are ideal for this, but they require some break-in, so they aren't for everyone.

    Proto on
    and her knees up on the glove compartment
    took out her barrettes and her hair spilled out like rootbeer
  • The Green Eyed MonsterThe Green Eyed Monster i blame hip hop Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    TheMarshal wrote: »
    dlinfiniti wrote: »
    celery77 wrote: »
    Shout out to Campbell, CA -- that's my hometown!

    I fucking hate riding bikes there, though. The cars are atrocious and none of the roads are bike friendly. I stick to the Los Gatos trail as much as humanly possible when I find myself unfortunate enough to be back there.

    los gatos/saratoga is generally a bike friendly town. (the bike lanes on hwy 9 are ginormous). Los Gatos Creek trail is always a good choice though cause going all the way to Lexington resevoir is pretty cool. Whats your bikeshop of choice? I like the Off Ramp in Santa Clara on El Camino

    I went to Wheel Away on Hamilton in Campbell. They seemed pretty knowledgeable, and dude steered me towards my current bike, which I'm digging.

    I'm like a block and a half away from the Los Gatos trail, and I'm trying to figure out if there's a way that I can take back roads and trails to get to work, or if I'll have to brave surface streets.
    I got my most recent bikes in the Campbell area at Calabazas Cyclery, which is on ... uhhh ... I'm totally forgetting. It's near Valco. I think I got my first bike as a kid at Wheel Away, and I've been there a few times getting tubes recently. Always seemed like a decent shop.

    Los Gatos and Saratoga are okay to bike in, and really I never had too many close calls in Campbell / San Jose. The thing is -- I stayed off the road as much as possible (nobody walks in that area, either, so you pretty much get free rein).

    If you can take Los Gatos trail for any portion of it, I recommend taking it as much as possible. Much better at nights, much quicker than navigating lights / traffic, and you might see my moms and you can say what's up for me.

    The Green Eyed Monster on
  • DaedalusDaedalus Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    defrag wrote: »
    TheMarshal wrote: »
    Okay, bike lock question:

    I'm planning on riding my bike to my summer job. It's only like a 10-15 minute ride. I went out and purchased a cable lock at the Friendly Local Bike Shop, and my father came home and told me I shouldn't have bought it.

    He says the cable (6') isn't long enough--he says it's supposed to go through both wheels, or someone might nick my back tire.

    I figure that locking up the front end ought to be sufficient--it's going to be parked behind a high school building during summer vacation in a neighborhood whose crime rate is, as far as I know, nonexistent--and if worst comes to worst, no one else uses the rack, so I might be able to stretch that 6' of cable by locking it parallel to the rack rather than perpendicular.

    Am I crazy? Much as I'd like to have one, I'd really rather not spend $50 on a U-lock.

    I was told that you wanna have a U-lock and a cable lock if your bike's gonna be out of your sight for more than an hour or two. If you have quick-release wheels, take the front wheel off and sit it next to your back wheel. Use the U-Lock around the front and back wheels, and make sure that it goes through the center part of the frame. Then thread the cable lock through the entire thing (wheel then frame) and through the bike rack.

    At least that's how I remember it being told to me. Anybody?

    Yes. This is the best way to lock your bike up, period. If you have a long shackle U-lock, you don't need a cable lock. If you have locking QR skewers, which I highly recommend to ANYONE, you don't need to take your front wheel off and you should just lock your bike up through your rear WHEEL (not frame) and whatever you're locking it too.

    Honestly, disengaging both wheels anytime you park your bike sounds a bit excessive, but then again this summer I'm working on an Air Force base so I guess I'm not exactly in a high-theft area. Also, my bike is an ancient piece of shit, although it's got sentimental value and hey, it gets me around.

    I just figure running a chain through both wheels, the frame, and the bike rack is sufficient.

    Daedalus on
  • Whiniest Man On EarthWhiniest Man On Earth Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    Daedalus wrote: »
    defrag wrote: »
    TheMarshal wrote: »
    Okay, bike lock question:

    I'm planning on riding my bike to my summer job. It's only like a 10-15 minute ride. I went out and purchased a cable lock at the Friendly Local Bike Shop, and my father came home and told me I shouldn't have bought it.

    He says the cable (6') isn't long enough--he says it's supposed to go through both wheels, or someone might nick my back tire.

    I figure that locking up the front end ought to be sufficient--it's going to be parked behind a high school building during summer vacation in a neighborhood whose crime rate is, as far as I know, nonexistent--and if worst comes to worst, no one else uses the rack, so I might be able to stretch that 6' of cable by locking it parallel to the rack rather than perpendicular.

    Am I crazy? Much as I'd like to have one, I'd really rather not spend $50 on a U-lock.

    I was told that you wanna have a U-lock and a cable lock if your bike's gonna be out of your sight for more than an hour or two. If you have quick-release wheels, take the front wheel off and sit it next to your back wheel. Use the U-Lock around the front and back wheels, and make sure that it goes through the center part of the frame. Then thread the cable lock through the entire thing (wheel then frame) and through the bike rack.

    At least that's how I remember it being told to me. Anybody?

    Yes. This is the best way to lock your bike up, period. If you have a long shackle U-lock, you don't need a cable lock. If you have locking QR skewers, which I highly recommend to ANYONE, you don't need to take your front wheel off and you should just lock your bike up through your rear WHEEL (not frame) and whatever you're locking it too.

    Honestly, disengaging both wheels anytime you park your bike sounds a bit excessive, but then again this summer I'm working on an Air Force base so I guess I'm not exactly in a high-theft area. Also, my bike is an ancient piece of shit, although it's got sentimental value and hey, it gets me around.

    I just figure running a chain through both wheels, the frame, and the bike rack is sufficient.

    You're not disengaging the rear wheel when you do this. You're just putting the front next to it.

    Whiniest Man On Earth on
  • Casually HardcoreCasually Hardcore Once an Asshole. Trying to be better. Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    People need to realize that bikes are not about *bling* *bling*

    THIS is a bike (after some saddle adjustment, though I might just toss it for a Brooks)

    TheBeast.jpg


    at $80 it's a steal. Frame is made from STEEL! Not carbon, not titanium, not that god awful aluminum, but good o' comfortable steel that'll last FOREVER and will not make your kidneys bleed! The only thing I need to change is the handle bars and the front derailer shifter. Getting a taller stem and some trekking bars, and a friction shifter cause index shifters sucks for the FD.

    After that it's going to remain ugly untill I find another bike worthy of my attention. Once I find another bicycle, I"ll acid dip and powder coat the frame and turn it into a xtracycle

    xtracycle.gif

    Casually Hardcore on
  • ProtoProto Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    that looks too small for you

    Proto on
    and her knees up on the glove compartment
    took out her barrettes and her hair spilled out like rootbeer
  • Casually HardcoreCasually Hardcore Once an Asshole. Trying to be better. Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    It is really, which is why I'm constantly considering about getting a trike. But I only have use for it once every 6 months or so.

    courier%20utility%20box%20165.jpg

    Maybe I should buy one, and rent it out once people cant afford gas anymore...

    Casually Hardcore on
  • ProtoProto Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    I like Surly's Big Dummy, but i'm not sure how much use I'd get out of it

    Proto on
    and her knees up on the glove compartment
    took out her barrettes and her hair spilled out like rootbeer
  • Casually HardcoreCasually Hardcore Once an Asshole. Trying to be better. Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    LOL, you ment the frame is too small for me.

    Eh...not really. If it's any taller then the top tube will, one day, give me a very bad day. Guess I'm one of those weird guys that have to make compromises here and there, but in the end the bicycle is comfortable and it'll be even more comfortable with some cockpit adjustments. I'm not planning to win any races, and I dont plan to do 8 hours touring on this bike, so it is what it is and one day I'll find that flea market beauty.

    Casually Hardcore on
  • ProtoProto Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    It was the high seatpost and you mentioning you wanted a taller stem that threw me, but I guess because the bottom bracket is so high there isn't much you can do about that.

    Proto on
    and her knees up on the glove compartment
    took out her barrettes and her hair spilled out like rootbeer
  • BogartBogart Streetwise Hercules Registered User, Moderator Mod Emeritus
    edited June 2008
    I got a puncture this morning. Boo hiss. What's especially annoying is that although I had a spare inner tube right there I haven't replaced my broken pump, so no quick fix for me. My tires are looking a little thin, so that's probably why I've had two punctures in quick succession (as well as the fact that cycle paths are apparently a long concrete disposal area for glass objects).

    Most annoying.

    Bogart on
  • Casually HardcoreCasually Hardcore Once an Asshole. Trying to be better. Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    It was the high seatpost and you mentioning you wanted a taller stem that threw me, but I guess because the bottom bracket is so high there isn't much you can do about that.

    Ah, well I'm going for a more upright style ride. Thinking about getting some north ride handle bars and an adjustable stem.
    I got a puncture this morning. Boo hiss. What's especially annoying is that although I had a spare inner tube right there I haven't replaced my broken pump, so no quick fix for me. My tires are looking a little thin, so that's probably why I've had two punctures in quick succession (as well as the fact that cycle paths are apparently a long concrete disposal area for glass objects).

    What I find annoying is that there is no 'middle ground' between the bad quality of Wal-Mart product, and the million dollar super pumps of the LBS. That goes for bikes in general. I mean how in the world can a LBS try to sell me a $15.00 tube, with a straight face, is beyond me.

    Casually Hardcore on
  • Jake!Jake! Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    It is really, which is why I'm constantly considering about getting a trike. But I only have use for it once every 6 months or so.

    courier%20utility%20box%20165.jpg

    Maybe I should buy one, and rent it out once people cant afford gas anymore...

    trike.jpg

    I'd recommend one of these, an awesome riding position and very fast. Carries 25kg on the rack.

    Jake! on
  • ProtoProto Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    It was the high seatpost and you mentioning you wanted a taller stem that threw me, but I guess because the bottom bracket is so high there isn't much you can do about that.

    Ah, well I'm going for a more upright style ride. Thinking about getting some north ride handle bars and an adjustable stem.
    I got a puncture this morning. Boo hiss. What's especially annoying is that although I had a spare inner tube right there I haven't replaced my broken pump, so no quick fix for me. My tires are looking a little thin, so that's probably why I've had two punctures in quick succession (as well as the fact that cycle paths are apparently a long concrete disposal area for glass objects).

    What I find annoying is that there is no 'middle ground' between the bad quality of Wal-Mart product, and the million dollar super pumps of the LBS. That goes for bikes in general. I mean how in the world can a LBS try to sell me a $15.00 tube, with a straight face, is beyond me.

    Get a used Silca pista/superpista pump. Everything on them is replaceable and they work great.

    Proto on
    and her knees up on the glove compartment
    took out her barrettes and her hair spilled out like rootbeer
  • Whiniest Man On EarthWhiniest Man On Earth Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    Your LBS sells $15 tubes? That's ridiculous. Ours are $6, $7 for long valve stem, and $10 for the ultralight, pre-talc'd tubes. But keep in mind, the price of everything rubber is going to skyrocket.

    Whiniest Man On Earth on
  • Mortal SkyMortal Sky queer punk hedge witchRegistered User regular
    edited June 2008
    My ride is some Gary Fisher mountain bike, but I use it a ton for just riding around suburbia. Sucker can go just about anywhere, and my bike shop is just a few streets down.

    Mortal Sky on
  • duallainduallain Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    I was just gifted an old steel frame road bike. I think it probably needs a total rework, but wheels look decent, handlebars are handlebarry, and turning into a fixie should solve some of the gear-chain problems. It'd hopefully be good enough to go along with my Dad's road bike. I don't know how involved it is going to be though. Hopefully not too much.

    duallain on
  • MrOlettaMrOletta Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    I bought a new bike about 4 months ago, and it's been fun ever since.
    30-0037-CAR-SIDE.jpg

    I moved to Austin from south texas, so getting used to the hills has been a bit challenging. I could ride 15 miles in S TX and have an elevation change of about 10 ft. It's been an eye opener here, but at least I've grown accustomed to it.

    Been using it to bike to work 3-4 days a week (17-18mi round trip). It's sad that Austin is supposed to be a bike friendly city, but I think it's terrible here.

    MrOletta on
  • HubHub Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    Im working in a bike shop in Victoriaville Québec Canada forgive me if I make mistake english is not my first language. Im a bike mechanic for the last 2 years, awesome job and coworker, Made a lot of new friend with biking. its really a great sport.

    I got 5 bike for the moment, but the only one I use for now are these one.

    Stumpjumper FSR expert
    Nothing to say beside awesome fun
    Really nervous and amazing bike all around.
    9383-230_l.jpg


    Globe centrum sport

    single speed and great urban bike for the really small price (599$can)

    08CentrumSport_UK_l.jpg



    Right as we talk im building my own trail with bridge, river crossing, burns, drop off and more all that in my backyard, im really lucky to have all this space. I will try to upload some picture tomorrow.

    Hub on
  • DocDoc Registered User, ClubPA regular
    edited June 2008
    I have a mountain bike from a few years back that I want to revitalize. I used to ride it in college year-round, so the chain has some light rust. It looks to be all on the surface. Can I clean the chain and put it back on, or should I get a new one?

    Doc on
  • ProtoProto Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    if the rust is light and the chain still moves well you could probably use it.

    chains are cheap though, $20-40.

    Proto on
    and her knees up on the glove compartment
    took out her barrettes and her hair spilled out like rootbeer
  • DocDoc Registered User, ClubPA regular
    edited June 2008
    Yeah, it still moves fine. I scrubbed it a bit after using some citrus degreaser (put a little of that stuff in a 1-liter soda bottle with your chain and shake), then oiled it and it was almost as good as new.

    Doc on
  • Mai-KeroMai-Kero Registered User regular
    edited June 2008
    So, what exactly is the difference between regular bikes and expensive bikes? For example, what differentiates the $128 Schwinn mountain bike I bought at Target and the $599 canadian one-speed bike the guy bought a few posts up? Is it made out of titanium or something?

    Mai-Kero on
Sign In or Register to comment.