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Kitten Thread part 1^n (Kitten goes into a berserker rage)
Grundlestiltskin
Behind you!Registered User regular
Behind you!Registered User regular
So after much discussion, my girlfriend and I are heading down to the animal shelter today to get our first cat. We want to get a kitty, raise it right, etc etc. A few questions.
1. Beyond its initial vaccines and whether or not it's spayed/neutered, what other questions should I be asking the shelter?
2. What kinds of things should I have for the cat immediately? Litter box, scratching post, some toys, anything else? What kind of food should I be buying for it off the bat?
3. Housebreaking - best ways to do it?
4. Discipline - What are the best ways to get a kitten to stop doing things it shouldn't? I'm mostly concerned about the cat scratching up the couch and chewing on power cables. Thoughts?
Oh, there will be pics. Eventually.
1. Beyond its initial vaccines and whether or not it's spayed/neutered, what other questions should I be asking the shelter?
2. What kinds of things should I have for the cat immediately? Litter box, scratching post, some toys, anything else? What kind of food should I be buying for it off the bat?
3. Housebreaking - best ways to do it?
4. Discipline - What are the best ways to get a kitten to stop doing things it shouldn't? I'm mostly concerned about the cat scratching up the couch and chewing on power cables. Thoughts?
Oh, there will be pics. Eventually.
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Under no circumstances declaw the cat.
I use the Merwin Memorial Free Clinic, they charge you cost for any medications and just ask for a donation for the services.
Make sure you bring a carrier to the shelter unless you're going to the MSPCA where they'll give you a cardboard box to take the cat home in. It might take the cat sometime to get cozy in your place. Dinah hid under the couch for an hour until she came out and started exploring.
Which shelter are you getting the cat from?
2)I bought a collar with a bell on it, just because she was so small and she would just disappear hours at a time going into the various nooks and crannys of my house, took it off when she was too big to fit into that stuff.
3)In my experience I didn't need to house break my cat I just plopped it near the litter box so she would have the knowledge of where it was. However one of my friends had a few potted plants moved out for a few weeks, because the kitty would initially go in those as well.
4)A spray bottle works depending on the cat, encourage it to use the post. You can also mix a lemon/water concoction and apply it to surfaces you don't want it to be on/bite.
Yeah don't declaw your cat I was in the process of getting my cat to use the post and was making progress, then had to leave for a week and found that my mom declawed my cat. I was pissed and her personality noticeably changed, she became more bitey, impatient, and less friendly.
EDIT: Now that I think of it I think the humane society told me to add water to her dry food and feed that to her, still won't hurt to ask.
I did not actually know about the paperwork, that'll be a pain in the ass since we both work during the week. I'll work something out, maybe work from home one day so I can pick it up I suppose. We're definitely sure about the cat, we've been talking about this for well over a year.
We would never think about declawing the cat, just trying to find ways to encourage it to find healthier scratching outlets than my couch.
Good point about the cat carrier, I was wondering about that. We're planning to hit a pet store before we head down that way.
We were going to head to the shelter in Roslindale, it's only a few miles from here.
You go in and see the cats, then you fill out the paperwork and they will approve you then in 48 hours (48 hours that they're open for adoptions, not just 48 hours) you can get the cat. So if you went in today if the adoption person didn't get to process the paperwork today, they would on Tuesday and you'd hear from them around Thursday and would get the cat the first time you could after that.
Definitely bring the carrier because they don't provide one. It's a very streamlined process and when I get Dinah a little friend it will definitely be from there.
My cat came spayed and with all of her shots, it wasn't until May (10 months later) that she needed to get more.
Yeah I have my lease which says we're permitted one cat, though I don't have a specific letter of permission from the landlord (they mention this on the website). Hopefully it's not a huge issue since it is specifically referenced in the lease.
If it's specifically mentioned then it's ok. Mine didn't say so I had to have the management company fax them a letter.
I know with our humane society my cats needed to leave in a carrying case and then needed to have collars on, even if I wasn't keeping the collars on them all the time. It was for the identification tag. The cardboard case they'll either give you or you can buy it for a few dollars. You can probably buy the collars there too.
Along with everything else you buy, get something that they can perch on and hide in. Mine had this box in their cage that the shelter let me keep. It doesn't have to be complicated.
As for deterring behaviour, understand that this is a kitten and your efforts will mostly be useless. Also that (s)he will stop doing most bad things eventually. It's more worth your while to kitten-proof the house than try to prevent bad behaviour. but watch and see what kind of mischief the cat gets up to first. Every cat is different and their destructiveness is individual as well.
They'll probably tell you this at the shelter, but keep the cat isolated in a small room for at least a day before letting it run around the house. Moving into a new place can be scary and it's better to let them get used to new surroundings gradually.
Obligatory cat picture, sitting in the aforementioned box given by the shelter:
Adult cats often have a tougher time getting adopted so you might consider getting a slightly older cat. You get the benefit of him/her having already been through the kitten illnesses and vaccines as well as the probability of them being house trained. Plus you're helping out a cat that might not be as adoptable as a cute little kitten.
If a kitten is the only option you're willing to go for you should look into getting some training pads. Most pet stores and I think even Target has them. While you're out at work, it'd be a good idea to close the kitten off in a small room with a training pad, water and such so it doesn't get into anything.
De-Clawing is kind of controversial. If you're planning on raising an Indoor/Outdoor cat then it's a no-no. But if you're planning on keeping your cat indoors at all times then a front de-clawing isn't a horrible idea. There's actually a new laser procedure that's more or less replacing the old approach of yanking the claws out. The recovery time is a few days as opposed to the old method. My local vet mentioned that she doesn't even do the old removal method anymore. Never have the back claws taken out though, those are the claws that a cat really uses to defend itself. My cat's previous owners didn't really know how to raise cats so he's completely de-clawed and we have to always keep an eye on him so he doesn't get out.
I'd be inclined to agree... my parents wouldn't let my sister and I get a cat without him/her being partially declawed (why? I have no idea, my mom refuses to let them in the house) but, wanting a couple of kittens, my sister and I agreed.
After the procedure, neither cat was the same and one pretty much hates everybody but me and my sister now... and even our relationship is iffy.
I'd say only declaw them if you absolutely have to.
Here's a hot tip re: claw clipping. Gently touch and play with the cat's paws while you're playing with the cat. It'll get the animal used to having its paws touched. Do the clipping yourself, holding the cat gently on all fours and raising one paw at a time. Kittens will usually just go along with it - it may whine and nip, but the more you do it, the more accustomed the animal will get.
Thank you, Rubacava!
Later, you should choose the best food you can afford. You can slowly mix the old shelter food with your new choice food over 1-2 weeks putting more of the new into the mix each day.
Here's a list I saved that someone else put together before I got my cats. They are sorted by their ingredients. I am sure someone will come by and tell you there's no reason to get premium food and Walmart's home brand has kept their cat alive for 15 years. Sure, people can eat McDonalds every day too and be perfectly fine. If junk food containing filler that your cat doesn't have the ability to digest is good enough for you, then that's your decision. Just make it knowing the difference.
Ultra Premium (regular)
Solid Gold
Innova
California Natural
Nature's Variety Prairie
Natural Balance
Wellness
Evanger's (makes only wet) (NOT the vegetarian formula, duh.)
Tiki Cat (makes only wet)
Wysong (wet)
Ultra Premium (grain-free)
Innova EVO
Before Grain (B.G.), made by Merrick
Now! Grain Free
Wellness CORE
Nature's Variety Instinct
Taste of the Wild
Premium
Chicken Soup
Blue Buffalo
Merrick (wet)
Pet Promise (wet)
Newman's Own Organics
Felidae
Diamond Naturals (dry)
Good
Eagle Pack
Royal Canin
Wysong (dry)
Pet Promise (dry)
Acceptable
Iams
Science Diet
Eukanuba
Purina One
Diamond
Nutro
Trader Joe's
Whole Paws
Not acceptable
Fancy Feast
Sheba
Cat Chow
Whiskas
Meow Mix
Special Kitty, or whatever Wal-Mart calls its house brand
Store Brands
Anything that includes the words "meat" or "animal" in its ingredients list
One thing new cat owners don't usually do is make an effort to teach the kitten its name right away. To teach a new kitten its name, stroke its head while its eating and repeat its name. Keep this up for a while and the kitten will learn to associate its name with food and come when you call it.
Every single one of my cats has learned to come when called - via kissing noises or "Kitty kitty" - regardless of intelligence, thanks to the power of turkey lunchmeat and/or tuna: crouch near the cat with some in your hand, make the noise, and let them sniff/eat it. Back away, let them forget you have it (or just repeat some other time, if they're too persistent), and do it again. Works like a charm, and you can always get ahold of them for whatever nefarious purposes you like. (Try not to overuse it for things they hate, or you'll undo the positive association. Depends on the individual cat's ability to hold a grudge.)
We put in an application for a cute kitten, we're the second applicants though so I don't know if we'll get it or not until I call on Monday. Other than that we'll probably wait until the new kittens are ready for adoption in a few weeks. I'd like to watch a kitten grow up, so I'm not super interested in adopting an older cat. Plus all of the stuff we bought from Petco on the way home is too small for a big cat.
The cat we put in an application for is a girl kitty. My gf wants to name it Leela after the girl from Futurama. I wanted to call it Leelu after the girl from the 5th element. I don't know if this is going to cause a kitty identity crisis or not.
Good luck with your new kitten.
Anyway I harness trained her by making tiny harnesses out of yarn because she was too small for the store bought one. I put one on her every time she went out into the hallway of my apartment building. She liked going into the hall way because she is really social and totally ate up all the attention from the neighbors. Also there was lots of room to run around and play with toys. A laser pointer was a big hit here.
So she got to associate the harness with good things and now I don't have to fight her to get it on. She'll sulk for a bit because she doesn't like the feeling, but she gets over it as soon as we go do something.
And she loves camping. She gets lots of attention, she's outside, and there are lots of things to look at and lots of bugs to chase. It's the best thing ever.
Also when she was tiny I used to give her baths all the time. Not full on shampoo baths, because that's bad for their skin to do too often. but about once a week I'd hold her gently under the tap and get her body (not her head) wet. Accompanied by lots of petting and nice words and treats before and after. This was all when she was small enough she couldn't do too much damage. Now that she's bigger and theoretically could rip my arm to shreds, she doesn't. She only gets baths now like once every 6 to 9 months, when she gets into something messy or whatnot. I can't say she likes them, but they are tolerated and she's not afraid of water.
And it's a really good idea to have a noise or call that you make everytime you feed her. My cat always comes when I do a pursed lips chirp thing, because it almost always means something good in store for her. This is very handy, like if she'd hiding somewhere and I want to know whee she is so I can make sure she's not in trouble.
One thing I have to say is don't let the kitten play bite you. That's one mistake I made. It's cute when they are tiny, but once they're grown it HURTS and it's much harder to break them of the habit then. If she bites you, stop all play until she's calmed down. That's the only thing I've found that works.
This works for about a few months, then the cat realizes she's not getting food and stops coming.
Well, you have to keep giving her food and attention every so often even after she "knows" her name to keep the learned behavior up.
Granted, my cat still seems to "know" her name. She'll turn her head when we call her but she is too damn lazy to get up and walk on over to us
My brother's cats shower with him every morning.
My brother's cats are weird.
My vet initially gave me de-worming paste to put in my kitten's food, but the last visit I was given a spot-on solution that treats fleas, ticks, larvae, roundworm, heartworm, hookworm and something my vet warned me about called Lungworm that I'd never heard of. She said it was carried in and passed on by snails as well, but I'm not sure.
It's probably best not the let your kitten out into the world (if he/she's gonna be an outdoor kitty) before you're sure they've had some sort of parasite treatment.
Also, ask your vet about getting the kitten chipped (especially if they're going to be allowed outside) just in case it runs away/gets lost/gets kittennapped. It's quick and lasts forever and not particularly expensive. Microchip the size of a grain of rice in the skin at the back of its neck with all your details on.
If you get your kitten a collar I'd recommend one with elastic or a safety clasp or something just because a long time ago, one of my cats got her collar caught on a bush and almost hung herself.
Rainbulimic's advice is great. Microchipping is a good idea; even if you're keeping the kitten as an indoor kitten, you never know when they may manage to sneak outside. Plus, if your cat is anything like any of the cats my parents have owned, ever, they'll be able to get any collar off in less than an hour.
they put tracking devices in kittens now?
fucking sweet
Herding them, however, is still a bitch.
My parents' cat went missing for a week; someone found him and brought him to a local vet and within five minutes they were able to contact my parents; vets and shelters will always check for a microchip first on any stray animal brought in to see them.
My cat will come to us from wherever she is in the house when we call her name. It's not expecting food either.. it just shows up and meows inquisitively.
You're looking at a creature who once outside will freak the fuck out. Hide, run, pretty much be a giant mess because they've never experienced it.
My cats don't go outside either, but during a move once, one of them took for the damned door and I couldn't find him for over 3 hours. This was at night and only 6 or so hours before I packed up to leave the area.
Yea. I was freaking the fuck out.
Get the cat chipped so if he gets out and if he gets found there's the chance that he'll make it back to you if someone picks him up and he's not wearing a collar.
Also,
The choice is essentially yours and should be made after spending a little time living with your kitten. You will likely be able to train the cat properly as you're getting a very young cat.
If it is a road you go down, do your research, talk to you vet, think it over. I went around to a few different places, talked about how it was done, discussed pain management afterwards, etc. Within a day of the procedure my boys were back to themselves and being awesome. Though, I timed mine with the neutering as well.