so, I just started getting back into warhammer 40k and picked up a squad of dark eldar warriors as well as the codex. I've built the warriors now and I have deemed that I won't buy another unit until I've fully painted this one, so now I have to decide on a color scheme.
Awww, you think it will actually work this way? Adorable.
so, I just started getting back into warhammer 40k and picked up a squad of dark eldar warriors as well as the codex. I've built the warriors now and I have deemed that I won't buy another unit until I've fully painted this one, so now I have to decide on a color scheme.
Awww, you think it will actually work this way? Adorable.
well i have 3000 points or more of dark eldar already, so I really don't need anything *new* except for the fact that they are new pretty models
all of which are broken and half painted because yay being a teenager storing my army in a tacklebox!
so, I just started getting back into warhammer 40k and picked up a squad of dark eldar warriors as well as the codex. I've built the warriors now and I have deemed that I won't buy another unit until I've fully painted this one, so now I have to decide on a color scheme.
Awww, you think it will actually work this way? Adorable.
I've managed to hold strong with DV, and I'm almost done. It helps that I can't decide between starting a space wolves army (this blog is fantastic btw http://drownedinplastic.blogspot.ca/) , or starting a space marines army when the new codex comes out (either a orange/grey/black/white color scheme or a dark blue / light grey/white/black color scheme).
I'm also thinking about starting warmachine, though I may just jump in and buy cryx models to paint (i think they look awesome).
and here i thought i was being a bit creative with the purple scheme, thanks for the video, that does give me some inspiration!
Purple, not that original for Dark Eldar . Not sure why purple seems to be popular for them, though, but I see it a lot.
The first scheme I did on mine was also purple, but I switched to red since I didn't like how the purple was working.
0
Options
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
Dammit. I glued the hammer arm to my termie sgt last night only to look at it today to notice the FW shoulder pads have their purity seals all hanging one way. So I had to take off the arm to reposition it. One good thing to come out of it, the arm came off very easily, so I know I need to pin them now. Bad news, It doesn't quite fit right with the targeting system on top of the armor on that side.
0
Options
Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Also looking for advice on primer, I usually do gw white primer, even for dark painted models because it makes the models a bit brighter, but someone had recommended trying a grey primer to me, any brand suggestions would be great!
Vallejo Surface Primer.
The only choice, really.
Comes in a bunch of colours now too.
Technically it's a self levelling brush on primer and is pretty damn good at that, but gets amazing results if applied with an airbrush.
so I went to hobby town (closest place to where i live) and they did not have army painter or vallejo so I was really sad, but because the urge to paint was so great I ended up picking up citadel primer and 6 paints. This is what I've accomplished at a first attempt in over 2 years:
and a slightly more blurry photo
apparently my phone camera is pretty detailed, the pics make it look a lot messier than it is if you look at it from a normal distance
Nice! Citadel primer isn't the worst thing you can buy, but if you can, I've used auto primer for a few years to good effect as well, and it's cheap, too!
Seeing as my Bones kickstarter was delivered earlier this week, I delved into the box last night, grabbed a model and threw some paint at him. Pretty pleased with the results for 2 hours work.
Khade97 on
+7
Options
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
I deeply regret being too impoverished to do the bones kickstarter.
Anyone have any tutorials and/or advice about how to paint trees? There are a million and one articles about weathering metal and making armour look rusty but I'm not even sure where to start with natural scenery.
I would just start out with a black primer, do a coat of a dark brown, do a drybrush of a lighter brown, and then do a brown ink for the trunk
leaves I'm not entirely sure but I would treat them how I did feathers/fur for my warriors of tzeentch, paint them dark green, dry brush a teal on the edges to make it pop a bit.
that said I'm not a terribly talented painter.
TheKoolEagle on
Mon-Fri 8:30 PM CST - 11:30 PM CST
0
Options
ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
Anyone have any tutorials and/or advice about how to paint trees? There are a million and one articles about weathering metal and making armour look rusty but I'm not even sure where to start with natural scenery.
Anyone have any tutorials and/or advice about how to paint trees? There are a million and one articles about weathering metal and making armour look rusty but I'm not even sure where to start with natural scenery.
I spent $3 on parchment paper today to try a home-made wet palette. I would HIGHLY recommend this to anyone who hasn't yet done so.
That's what I do. Tupperware, sponge, a couple quarters to hold down the paper when it's fresh off the roll.
why are you smelling it?
0
Options
ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
I had never used a wet palette before. It's more about the night and day difference it makes for the paint itself. I was expecting it to be maybe half as effective as it is, but nope, I have some grey on there from 6 hours ago that I could still use if I had a reason to.
The 'tray' I fashioned was to just cut the back off a PP blister and use it for a small, shallow dish. Paper towel + parchment = awesome results.
Its been awhile since I've been in this thread or even thought about Warhammer, but this weekend I gave sculpting a go. The goal being a Daemon Prince, because that sounds like a totally easy first project right? Haven't done anything with clay past the stuff you do in 4th grade art class.
It looks pretty bad so far tbh, and I am definitely starting to understand why you don't see alot of "from scratch" mini's (or at least I don't). But I'm having a pretty good time doing it so I thought I would share my progress. This thread has given me alot of helpful feedback in the past
I'm not an artist of any sort and the body proportions are kind of fucked up, though I couldn't really tell you why. I guess the arms are kind of long. If anyone has some sweet tips, I'll take whatever I can get. Have no fucking idea how I am going to attempt hands/fingers. My friend suggested just attaching a sword or mace to one of his stubs, which I am definitely considering!
I deeply regret being too impoverished to do the bones kickstarter.
A buddy of mine bought into it. While just having that sheer volume of dudes is awesome, alot of the models are less than... amazing, I'll say. The detail is there, but so many weapons are perma-bent/angled weird. I'm not sure if it was a result of how they shipped it or how they manufactured them. Its kind of like how when you buy a single metal model, a weapon might be in a weird angle because of how it was placed in the box. But those problems were easy to fix. Can't really do it with the resin.
Still, having a shit load of guys kind of makes up for it
Foolish Chaos on
0
Options
-Loki-Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining.Registered Userregular
edited August 2013
Resin is super easy to fix. Hot water, bend it back, cold water. If it bends back after doing this, it may need a longer soak, and a few more tries as some resin has a bit of a memory to it.
The advantage of resin in this case is it does not develop weak spots, as it recures when cooled. Metal models develop lots of little stress fractures every time they're bent and repositioned, so eventually the bent area, if it happens regularly, will just fall apart.
No experience with airbrushing miniatures, but you might want to get some paint strainers if you haven't. Minitiure paint is obviously so expensive though, that I don't know if its worth wasting even the smallest ammount. I guess if you just keep your paints thin and clean the brush well, it should be fine. For cleaning them you can probably just run water/paint thiner through it
0
Options
Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Those seem wholly superfluous to me; nozzle clogs occur more because of paint drying on the needle than because of preexisting lumps, at least with water-based acrylic miniature paints.
Anyway, airbrush care 101:
• Know Your Airbrush 1; read the manual and make sure you know how to safely dismantle it for cleaning.
• A mild cleaning solution immediately after use, and between colours, is a lot easier than a harsh solution after everything's dried solid.
• Vallejo make a nice mild cleaner, and badger do an aerosol harsh cleaner (basically acetone in a spray).
• Consider a set of fine pipe cleaners/bottle brushes.
• You will also want cotton buds for cleaning, and some toothpicks for stubborn paint.
• Have plenty of water on hand to flush through after using a cleaning solution as the soap/acetone residue can adversely affect later colours.
• Know Your Airbrush 2; practice controlling the flow with water on scrap paper before using paint the first time and do it again with some paint to make sure.
Airbrush primers… well there's still only one real choice for now; Vallejo again. Their Surface Primer range comes in the standard black/grey/white plus a few more specific colours and can be used unthinned through an airbrush on basically any material you're going to find in a miniature.
A cheap alternative to cleaner (and thinner) for your airbrush:
Windex.
It's similar to the Vallejo cleaner, but with some dyes and perfumes, which a good flush with water will take care of.
It's fine as a thinner, but the dye can alter colors a bit.
Alternately, you can mix up your own without the extra stuff, and it's cheaper.
1 oz white ammonia
2 oz rubbing alcohol
13 oz distilled water
I've got a couple of gallons of this stuff in my shop which will probably last longer than my desire to paint, and is handy for cleanup as well.
If my role play is hindered by rolling to play, then I'd prefer the rolls play right, instead of steam-rolling play-night.
0
Options
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Top 3 airbrush primers:
1. Vallejo Surface Primer
2. Vallejo Surface Primer
3. Vallejo Surface Primer
Also you should get some Vallejo Surface Primer.
In other news I sacrilegiously bought a Warmachine battlegroup to take it all for a spin. Pretty shitty plastic.
Yeah I see that now. Plastic glue was a mistake, switching to super glue made a world of difference.
Shame I think the models look stupid as shit in person.
It's a shame you didn't go through the last page of the warmahordes thread before hand. I made EXACTLY this discovery while helping a friend with their battle box.
Yeah I see that now. Plastic glue was a mistake, switching to super glue made a world of difference.
Shame I think the models look stupid as shit in person.
I'm sorry you've been coddled so long by GW's high quality injection moulded plastics that you've forgotten how to handle a little mould line cleaning :P
Seriously though the resin/plastic PP uses is the worst kind of diabeetus. I mean urgh.
What set did you get and I will fight you over opinions.
Posts
Awww, you think it will actually work this way? Adorable.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
well i have 3000 points or more of dark eldar already, so I really don't need anything *new* except for the fact that they are new pretty models
all of which are broken and half painted because yay being a teenager storing my army in a tacklebox!
I've managed to hold strong with DV, and I'm almost done. It helps that I can't decide between starting a space wolves army (this blog is fantastic btw http://drownedinplastic.blogspot.ca/) , or starting a space marines army when the new codex comes out (either a orange/grey/black/white color scheme or a dark blue / light grey/white/black color scheme).
I'm also thinking about starting warmachine, though I may just jump in and buy cryx models to paint (i think they look awesome).
Purple, not that original for Dark Eldar
The first scheme I did on mine was also purple, but I switched to red since I didn't like how the purple was working.
Vallejo Surface Primer.
The only choice, really.
Comes in a bunch of colours now too.
Technically it's a self levelling brush on primer and is pretty damn good at that, but gets amazing results if applied with an airbrush.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
apparently my phone camera is pretty detailed, the pics make it look a lot messier than it is if you look at it from a normal distance
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
leaves I'm not entirely sure but I would treat them how I did feathers/fur for my warriors of tzeentch, paint them dark green, dry brush a teal on the edges to make it pop a bit.
that said I'm not a terribly talented painter.
How to paint some happy trees.
Just buy real bonsai trees.
Comics, Games, Booze
Nice!
I painted for 3 hours, barely got another 2 models ~20% finished. I'm so sloooow.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
That's what I do. Tupperware, sponge, a couple quarters to hold down the paper when it's fresh off the roll.
The 'tray' I fashioned was to just cut the back off a PP blister and use it for a small, shallow dish. Paper towel + parchment = awesome results.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Now to shop around for a decent-quality airbrush that doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
Badger Patriot.
You're welcome.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
It looks pretty bad so far tbh, and I am definitely starting to understand why you don't see alot of "from scratch" mini's (or at least I don't). But I'm having a pretty good time doing it so I thought I would share my progress. This thread has given me alot of helpful feedback in the past
I'm not an artist of any sort and the body proportions are kind of fucked up, though I couldn't really tell you why. I guess the arms are kind of long. If anyone has some sweet tips, I'll take whatever I can get. Have no fucking idea how I am going to attempt hands/fingers. My friend suggested just attaching a sword or mace to one of his stubs, which I am definitely considering!
edit: A buddy of mine bought into it. While just having that sheer volume of dudes is awesome, alot of the models are less than... amazing, I'll say. The detail is there, but so many weapons are perma-bent/angled weird. I'm not sure if it was a result of how they shipped it or how they manufactured them. Its kind of like how when you buy a single metal model, a weapon might be in a weird angle because of how it was placed in the box. But those problems were easy to fix. Can't really do it with the resin.
Still, having a shit load of guys kind of makes up for it
The advantage of resin in this case is it does not develop weak spots, as it recures when cooled. Metal models develop lots of little stress fractures every time they're bent and repositioned, so eventually the bent area, if it happens regularly, will just fall apart.
And ordered. Hooray low dollar value! Way cheaper from Amazon US than UK, even with import fees and shipping.
Any special primer? What do you clean the airbrush with?
Anyway, airbrush care 101:
• Know Your Airbrush 1; read the manual and make sure you know how to safely dismantle it for cleaning.
• A mild cleaning solution immediately after use, and between colours, is a lot easier than a harsh solution after everything's dried solid.
• Vallejo make a nice mild cleaner, and badger do an aerosol harsh cleaner (basically acetone in a spray).
• Consider a set of fine pipe cleaners/bottle brushes.
• You will also want cotton buds for cleaning, and some toothpicks for stubborn paint.
• Have plenty of water on hand to flush through after using a cleaning solution as the soap/acetone residue can adversely affect later colours.
• Know Your Airbrush 2; practice controlling the flow with water on scrap paper before using paint the first time and do it again with some paint to make sure.
Airbrush primers… well there's still only one real choice for now; Vallejo again. Their Surface Primer range comes in the standard black/grey/white plus a few more specific colours and can be used unthinned through an airbrush on basically any material you're going to find in a miniature.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Windex.
It's similar to the Vallejo cleaner, but with some dyes and perfumes, which a good flush with water will take care of.
It's fine as a thinner, but the dye can alter colors a bit.
Alternately, you can mix up your own without the extra stuff, and it's cheaper.
1 oz white ammonia
2 oz rubbing alcohol
13 oz distilled water
I've got a couple of gallons of this stuff in my shop which will probably last longer than my desire to paint, and is handy for cleanup as well.
1. Vallejo Surface Primer
2. Vallejo Surface Primer
3. Vallejo Surface Primer
Also you should get some Vallejo Surface Primer.
In other news I sacrilegiously bought a Warmachine battlegroup to take it all for a spin. Pretty shitty plastic.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
It's some sort of plastic/resin mix. Massive amounts of mold lines aside, I rather like working with it.
Shame I think the models look stupid as shit in person.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Magnus Battlegroup by magot42, on Flickr
Magnus Battlegroup by magot42, on Flickr
It's a shame you didn't go through the last page of the warmahordes thread before hand. I made EXACTLY this discovery while helping a friend with their battle box.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Something something your face.
:P
Waitwait, first we need to find out which faction he's talking about.
I mean, he could be talking about stupid-looking as shit Cygnar. :-P
I'm sorry you've been coddled so long by GW's high quality injection moulded plastics that you've forgotten how to handle a little mould line cleaning :P
What set did you get and I will fight you over opinions.