what part of that car is street legal? even in TX the tires, the windows, the seat belt/harness, the lack of airbags (probably) are not street legal...
not to mention the noise it makes... yeah it's legal, until you start the motor? great.
tires would have to be changed, windows probably aren't illegal, seat belt and harness should be fine, airbags aren't an issue and as long as you don't hammer it it still probably falls under noise ordinances, if but barely. For Oregon its 91dba measured at 25ft. Need to make sure it has working windshield wipers and lights/indicators and you're probably good to go.
There was a massive internet thing a while back about Andy Frost's Red Victor 3, because he claimed it was the world's fastest road legal car, which was disputed because in road going trim (on street tyres, standard pump fuel, and without nitrous) it obviously wasn't as quick.
The other participants in that particular argument were a Texan drag team and somebody with a wild Ultima build, all applying different definitions of what "road legal" meant.
Are Hoosiers drag radials DOT rated? I know their R7/A7 slicks are. That technically makes them "legal"
I'm making some massive air quotes as I type this.
technically yes, and stamped "FOR COMPETITION ONLY" all over them.
pretty sure plexi windows aren't legal, but maybe I'm wrong. seat belts/harness has to be 1-button, red "PRESS" to release to be street legal. and that thing sounds over the limit just idling.. but the test is done at I believe at 75% rpm of redline... that thing would break the microphone :biggrin:
but probably in Texas, you just need to install a gun rack to be legal
Always back into your parking spaces if you can't pull through. It is superior in every way. Also park way the fuck away from everybody because they're stupid cocksuckers and suck at parking and driving and will likely leave paint on your three week old vehicle.
diablo III - beardsnbeer#1508 Mechwarrior Online - Rusty Bock
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Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
Are Hoosiers drag radials DOT rated? I know their R7/A7 slicks are. That technically makes them "legal"
I'm making some massive air quotes as I type this.
technically yes, and stamped "FOR COMPETITION ONLY" all over them.
pretty sure plexi windows aren't legal, but maybe I'm wrong. seat belts/harness has to be 1-button, red "PRESS" to release to be street legal. and that thing sounds over the limit just idling.. but the test is done at I believe at 75% rpm of redline... that thing would break the microphone :biggrin:
but probably in Texas, you just need to install a gun rack to be legal
Plexi windows are legal in Australia, as long as they've been crash tested in the vehicle. Like the Porsche 911 GT3 RS, we get a plexi rear window, the US gets glass.
Some googling tells me plexiglass shatters, which, yeah that would be bad. As opposed to the DOT tempered glass that breaks into little chunks.
Lexan on the other hand seems a little murkier, and might actually be DOT approved in a few cases, but I'm having a hard time verifying that. Shatterproof, unlike plexi, and more scratch resistant.
Always back into your parking spaces if you can't pull through. It is superior in every way. Also park way the fuck away from everybody because they're stupid cocksuckers and suck at parking and driving and will likely leave paint on your three week old vehicle.
There are so many lots in LA that only allow head-in parking and they all make me mad.
Back in my solar car team days I was told that PMMA / acrylic / plexiglass / lucite / etc. isn't allowed in production cars because it's relatively flammable and modifying it to not be makes it useless as a windscreen. I just looked up the relevant federal reg and it say that anything touching (or within 0.5" of) the interior envelope of a car, truck, bus, etc., has to meet pretty strict flammability restrictions (max flame front spread). Interestingly, the list of specific items called out for compliance doesn't include the windscreen; it clearly meets the interior contact part, though. Hmmm. Maybe I was told a myth.
So now that the weather is warming and I have a car I actually care about...any brands of soap/wax/ sponge (surely this does not matter much so long as it's soft enough?) to avoid? I'd like to keep this cheap and low maintenance. This pearl paintjob seemed dumb at first, but when the light catches it juuuust right man does my little spaceship look nice.
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L Ron HowardThe duckMinnesotaRegistered Userregular
So now that the weather is warming and I have a car I actually care about...any brands of soap/wax/ sponge (surely this does not matter much so long as it's soft enough?) to avoid? I'd like to keep this cheap and low maintenance. This pearl paintjob seemed dumb at first, but when the light catches it juuuust right man does my little spaceship look nice.
I honestly just use some old TurtleWax soap to clean the car, and I buy one of the Mother's detailing options that come with clay bars and wax in a combined package. That works for me, but I don't take it to car shows or anything like that.
Awesome. The ranger I had did not have a single wash in...probably 5-6 years. So I'm making sure I don't do anything dumb mostly. No car shows, not even cars and coffee. Just seeing it next to the sidewalk.
So now that the weather is warming and I have a car I actually care about...any brands of soap/wax/ sponge (surely this does not matter much so long as it's soft enough?) to avoid? I'd like to keep this cheap and low maintenance. This pearl paintjob seemed dumb at first, but when the light catches it juuuust right man does my little spaceship look nice.
I am also interested in this question.
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Wooo the couple liked my Jeep and it's associated foibles. They are going to get some cash right now to buy it. Fingers crossed they don't ghost me.
I'm a big fan of wash & wax mixtures. You get most of the effect of a proper hand waxing for 0% effort. If you actually wash your car regularly the wax will stay on indefinitely. Not as good as doing the whole thing by hand, but...
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
I'm a big fan of wash & wax mixtures. You get most of the effect of a proper hand waxing for 0% effort. If you actually wash your car regularly the wax will stay on indefinitely. Not as good as doing the whole thing by hand, but...
There is something zen about doing a really good clay bar/sealant/wax job though.
On the flipside I pay to have my car detailed once a year. It's well worth it and I don't have to expend any elbow grease.
I'm a big fan of wash & wax mixtures. You get most of the effect of a proper hand waxing for 0% effort. If you actually wash your car regularly the wax will stay on indefinitely. Not as good as doing the whole thing by hand, but...
There is something zen about doing a really good clay bar/sealant/wax job though.
On the flipside I pay to have my car detailed once a year. It's well worth it and I don't have to expend any elbow grease.
Absolutely. I love doing a clay bar. But I don't always have a couple hours to do all that detail work, so...
My car is badly in need of a full detail. I know it varies but what's a general cost of something like that?
The guy who comes to my office once a month charges $130 for a full clean of interior and exterior, with wax and what I'm sure is Armor All on the plastic bits. I generally have him do my car twice a year.
My car interior is fine but the paint is going to need a full clay bar, wax, sealant, and possibly some worth with cutting pads and compounds. A white car going through multiple upstate NY winters is really starting to need more attention than I can give is doing regular hand washes when the weather is good enough or touchless car washes whenever I get gas in the winter.
My car is badly in need of a full detail. I know it varies but what's a general cost of something like that?
$20-50 depending on which kit you buy, and an afternoon. Feels really good once you're done though.
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
edited March 2017
To have a pro do it with a full steam clean/shampoo on the inside and a strip/seal/wax on the outside can run up to $200 or so.
If you're car is a shit show of grim though it can cost more. My brother charged $500 one time to clean an early 2000s dodge ram that had never been washed or cleaned, inside and out. It took him 2 days.
That truck looked almost new when he was done. It was a goddamn miracle.
Edit: People came back and bought the Jeep. W00t! Got my bill of sale and signed away the title for a nice stack of cash. Time to go out for a nice dinner with the wife and then pay off a couple credit cards.
So now that the weather is warming and I have a car I actually care about...any brands of soap/wax/ sponge (surely this does not matter much so long as it's soft enough?) to avoid? I'd like to keep this cheap and low maintenance. This pearl paintjob seemed dumb at first, but when the light catches it juuuust right man does my little spaceship look nice.
Answering for Chris as well as myself.. Autoglym gear is the bees knees. I put some pictures in here of the red Volvo before we sold it, I should have done a before and after because the bonnet went from 'well i guess it needs a respray' to 'holy shit it's not looked this good in years' with a bunch of work. Their regular wash liquid and polish gear is enough to maintain a good paint job, use the polish before winter, after winter and some other point in the year and it'll be fresh as for years.
I looked up some local detailers in my area, I'd rather support someone independent than a franchise like Ziebart, and prices range from $125-200'ish which after my tax return is a perfectly reasonable amount. One guy's Spring Special is a full interior and exterior detail including engine bay detailing, sealant applied to all surfaces, and a future free refresh service (usually costs $50) starting at $200. Once it's actually Spring here I'll probably be making an appointment with him.
I looked up some local detailers in my area, I'd rather support someone independent than a franchise like Ziebart, and prices range from $125-200'ish which after my tax return is a perfectly reasonable amount. One guy's Spring Special is a full interior and exterior detail including engine bay detailing, sealant applied to all surfaces, and a future free refresh service (usually costs $50) starting at $200. Once it's actually Spring here I'll probably be making an appointment with him.
On the engine bay cleaning make sure they aren't using a power washer. While it is possible to do a great job with a power washer, it is ALSO really easy to fuck it up and damage something. If they do use power washers I bet they have a thing in the contract absolving them of any damages incurred.
Overall though it sounds like a great deal! A year detailing goes so far in extending lifespan of a vehicles surfaces. While detailing might cost $1000 over 5 years I bet it adds at least $2000 to the resale value. Besides the scratches on the bumper our Hyundai still looks almost factory fresh, not that it has almost 90,000 miles on it.
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
Autoglym stuff is wonderful for cleaning. I dunno shit about what's the best wax and how to use a claybar. Our car looks terrible and is in desperate need of a professional detail and paint restoration. It IS 9 years old though...
Autoglym stuff is wonderful for cleaning. I dunno shit about what's the best wax and how to use a claybar. Our car looks terrible and is in desperate need of a professional detail and paint restoration. It IS 9 years old though...
Again.. Autoglym paint restorer did amazing work on the Volvo, whack it on before the polish step, wonder if it's meant to be all cloudy and not rub off, do the polish and then be amazed.
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Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
"do the polish"? I only know one Polish girl, and whilst she's definitely a lovely person and a real looker, she's married with a baby.
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I'm making some massive air quotes as I type this.
You can't give someone a pirate ship in one game, and then take it back in the next game. It's rude.
tires would have to be changed, windows probably aren't illegal, seat belt and harness should be fine, airbags aren't an issue and as long as you don't hammer it it still probably falls under noise ordinances, if but barely. For Oregon its 91dba measured at 25ft. Need to make sure it has working windshield wipers and lights/indicators and you're probably good to go.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
The other participants in that particular argument were a Texan drag team and somebody with a wild Ultima build, all applying different definitions of what "road legal" meant.
technically yes, and stamped "FOR COMPETITION ONLY" all over them.
pretty sure plexi windows aren't legal, but maybe I'm wrong. seat belts/harness has to be 1-button, red "PRESS" to release to be street legal. and that thing sounds over the limit just idling.. but the test is done at I believe at 75% rpm of redline... that thing would break the microphone :biggrin:
but probably in Texas, you just need to install a gun rack to be legal
Plexi windows are legal in Australia, as long as they've been crash tested in the vehicle. Like the Porsche 911 GT3 RS, we get a plexi rear window, the US gets glass.
You can't give someone a pirate ship in one game, and then take it back in the next game. It's rude.
Lexan on the other hand seems a little murkier, and might actually be DOT approved in a few cases, but I'm having a hard time verifying that. Shatterproof, unlike plexi, and more scratch resistant.
You can't give someone a pirate ship in one game, and then take it back in the next game. It's rude.
There are so many lots in LA that only allow head-in parking and they all make me mad.
All the possibilities.....
http://www.crankyape.com/default.asp?pg=DispSingleItem&ItemNumber=71012
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
That's exactly what I would do!
And to appease Chris, no less than 6 turbos!
Good luck!
I honestly just use some old TurtleWax soap to clean the car, and I buy one of the Mother's detailing options that come with clay bars and wax in a combined package. That works for me, but I don't take it to car shows or anything like that.
I am also interested in this question.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
There is something zen about doing a really good clay bar/sealant/wax job though.
On the flipside I pay to have my car detailed once a year. It's well worth it and I don't have to expend any elbow grease.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Absolutely. I love doing a clay bar. But I don't always have a couple hours to do all that detail work, so...
The guy who comes to my office once a month charges $130 for a full clean of interior and exterior, with wax and what I'm sure is Armor All on the plastic bits. I generally have him do my car twice a year.
$20-50 depending on which kit you buy, and an afternoon. Feels really good once you're done though.
If you're car is a shit show of grim though it can cost more. My brother charged $500 one time to clean an early 2000s dodge ram that had never been washed or cleaned, inside and out. It took him 2 days.
That truck looked almost new when he was done. It was a goddamn miracle.
Edit: People came back and bought the Jeep. W00t! Got my bill of sale and signed away the title for a nice stack of cash. Time to go out for a nice dinner with the wife and then pay off a couple credit cards.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
I am pretty sure it is stripped down to the plastic.
I don't think the little touch up pen I have would cut it.
At least if it is plastic it won't rust. Slap a bumper sticker on it.
My wife backed up into a low cinderblock wall and scratched the shit out of the bumper. Luckily its plastic and just looks slightly bad.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
but my car is still pretty new and all nice and shiny red!
The first ding on a new car is always super painful. You might be able to get some touch up paint from the dealer or directly from KIA.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Answering for Chris as well as myself.. Autoglym gear is the bees knees. I put some pictures in here of the red Volvo before we sold it, I should have done a before and after because the bonnet went from 'well i guess it needs a respray' to 'holy shit it's not looked this good in years' with a bunch of work. Their regular wash liquid and polish gear is enough to maintain a good paint job, use the polish before winter, after winter and some other point in the year and it'll be fresh as for years.
On the engine bay cleaning make sure they aren't using a power washer. While it is possible to do a great job with a power washer, it is ALSO really easy to fuck it up and damage something. If they do use power washers I bet they have a thing in the contract absolving them of any damages incurred.
Overall though it sounds like a great deal! A year detailing goes so far in extending lifespan of a vehicles surfaces. While detailing might cost $1000 over 5 years I bet it adds at least $2000 to the resale value. Besides the scratches on the bumper our Hyundai still looks almost factory fresh, not that it has almost 90,000 miles on it.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Again.. Autoglym paint restorer did amazing work on the Volvo, whack it on before the polish step, wonder if it's meant to be all cloudy and not rub off, do the polish and then be amazed.
Again.
what a shame