You can do additional painting on top of a top coat right? I’ve got my ez-8 all panel lined and ready for a top coat, but I’m wavering I’m whether I want to do some dry brushing on it or not. I’d like to still go ahead and get a top coat on it so it’s “finished” at least until I ever decide to go back and do more to it
You can do additional painting on top of a top coat right? I’ve got my ez-8 all panel lined and ready for a top coat, but I’m wavering I’m whether I want to do some dry brushing on it or not. I’d like to still go ahead and get a top coat on it so it’s “finished” at least until I ever decide to go back and do more to it
Yes. You can put paint on top of anything. Gloss surfaces will be the worst for adherence, primer or matte surfaces will be best.
Base-panel line-matte-detailing-matte-weathering-gloss or matte
There are a lot of variables depending on what you want to do, be it pre-shading, chrome metallics, etc. Some general advice:
1) Prime before you paint. It makes a big difference in how well your paint will adhere.
2) Always paint in at least two thin coats. If you put down paint thick enough to only need one coat, you'll get brush strokes and other messiness to it.
3) If you paint your model, your top coat should be a gloss coat followed by a matte coat (unless you want glossy look). If you don't paint, a matte coat alone is sufficient and will greatly improve the final appearance. Gloss coats are much more protective than matte coats.
4) If you're applying waterslides, gloss coat prior to application. This will prevent fogging. Coat again once complete to prevent waterslides from falling off.
5) If you're painting a chrome metallic, first prime with a glossy black. Then lightly mist the chrome paint. Stop applying chrome long before you think it's silvery enough, as it will turn more silver as it dries. If you overspray chrome paint, you just end up with a silver appearance instead of chrome. * Molotow Chrome may be an exception to this, I haven't tried it yet but hear really good things.
6) Gundam Markers are great for adding details and absolutely garbage at actually painting a model. Never apply one gundam marker over another, as it will reactive the base color and leave you with a streaky mess.
What's the call on removing excess Gundam Marker paint? If I catch it early enough I can mostly scrub it off with a paper towel, though it tends to streak.
Is the answer just photographing from further away so you can't tell?
What's the call on removing excess Gundam Marker paint? If I catch it early enough I can mostly scrub it off with a paper towel, though it tends to streak.
Is the answer just photographing from further away so you can't tell?
NON-ACETONE nail polish remover and a cotton swab will lift it if it dries and just keep rotating to a clear side to completely remove the streaks, but make goddamn sure that it's non-acetone before you put it anywhere near your Gundam or else you're going to melt a hole straight through your kit.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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AtomicTofuShe's a straight-up supervillain, yoRegistered Userregular
I have a bottle of 90% isopropyl alcohol that I use to clean up any paint mishaps
Important - do not use lighter fluid on bare plastic
Thank you for the reminder. I personally haven't had any bad experiences with lighter fluid, but enamel thinner destroyed several joints in one of my unpainted kits, which is why I enamel panel line on painted kits only.
As mentioned in the OP a Pentel Hi-Polymer eraser can work for the ink Gundam Markers. As for the paint ones I'd second the suggestion for 90% isopropyl alcohol.
so this spaceship is kinda the best thing I've ever worked on? I feel like i've gotten through a few hundred milliletres of pva glue, and some tubes of super glue, and I've made so many sub assemblies and I haven't even properly gotten into painting bits of it, but it is really fun to work on, and it's such a different experience because everything is made out of flat bits of wood, so the way so many detailed bits have to come together to actually work means that making small details which would probably be a single cast piece in a resin or plastic kit actually takes forever, but you get to see all the creative ways that everything slowly comes together.
edit: it's got a few things where the instructions probably did things in slightly the wrong order for if you want to paint things, and there's a few issues, like the fact that it's really only supposed to be in landing position, so the front ramp moves up and down but can't actually close. But it's a lot of fun trying to work around that and figure it out.
Handsome CostanzaAsk me about 8bitdoRIP Iwata-sanRegistered Userregular
edited November 2017
Robot Damashii A.N.I.M.E Gundam Alex announced:
Yaaay they're branching off from 0079! Yaaaay this probably means we'll get 0083 suits!
(and 0080 stuff like the Kampfer and Zaku FZ are basically guaranteed now. Particularly the FZ since it's directly involved in the scene where the Alex ends up that way)
I'm just excited because we're probably getting a GM Command now. Not to mention it opens up tons of possibilities. Now that we know that the A.N.I.M.E line is going to go past the original series 0083, 8th MS team, and even Thunderbolt and Origin figures are possible.
Even if they are a little out of scale I would definitely grab a hy-gogg to put with my MSIA collection. I've always been disappointed that Bandai never made more MSIA from War in the Pocket. They stopped at the NT-1 and the Kampfer. They also could have done more with Stardust Memory as well. At the very least it would have been super easy to do a repaint of the Zaku II version one or version two in Earth Federation colors and some of the Zeon Africa guerrilla colors.
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H3KnucklesBut we decide which is rightand which is an illusion.Registered Userregular
0080 and 0083 have a lot of my favorite iterations of a lot of the classic mobile suits. Would love to see more of them get the MSIA or Robot Damashii treatment.
TBH I would love to see MSIA come back even if they started with Unicorn stuff. There is that new pocket figure line coming out next year that roughly scales with MSIA. The only problem is that they aren't scaled with each other so the CCA suits are the same size as the non CCA stuff so they are smaller than scale.
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H3KnucklesBut we decide which is rightand which is an illusion.Registered Userregular
Oh yeah, whatever happened to HCM Pro? That's the one I have a bunch of stuff from.
Oh yeah, whatever happened to HCM Pro? That's the one I have a bunch of stuff from.
I was under the impression that all the pre Robot Spirits lines were supposed to be merged together into Robot Spirits. IIRC at one point there was MSIA, EMSIA, Fix Figuration/Zeonography, HCM, SCM (or some other type of HCM line), and Fusion Works.
But then of course Bandai made Assault Kingdom, whatever the newer Assault Kingdom type pocket figure line is, and this new one that is roughly 4" scale and bigger than Assault Kingdom and it's follow on line.
H3KnucklesBut we decide which is rightand which is an illusion.Registered Userregular
Lalabox don't read this silly nitpick of the awesome model.
How do the flight crew get from the main area of the ship into their chairs? Are they just stuck in the seats the whole time, or do they have to don vacuum suits and go EVA?
Lalabox don't read this silly nitpick of the awesome model.
How do the flight crew get from the main area of the ship into their chairs? Are they just stuck in the seats the whole time, or do they have to don vacuum suits and go EVA?
it's got a fully detailed interior, with a removable roof, and a door behind them. I've sprayed it with a black undercoat at the moment, but here's a photo from earlier. There's also a few things that are going to get stuck on which make it look more like a cockpit, but i'm just leaving them off for now for ease of painting.
it's also got all sorts of widgets and details to stick on the walls, including a coffee machine. The ship also has it's own bathroom. It's a really, really cool kit.
it's also very much a star wars style spaceship where there's just gravity on every ship, it's fine
edit: to avoid triple posting I also love having a 28mm scale model that's this detailed. It's a lot of fun to put warhammer models and whatever in them
Built the Cherudim Gundam SAGA type. This thing, per instructions, has 7 guns. The sprues contained 1 more of the assault rifles on the shoulder and this long rifle I have it holding... Might be overkill.
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Librarian's ghostLibrarian, Ghostbuster, and TimSporkRegistered Userregular
Posts
anyway, new p-bandai kit! gyan krieger, from gihren's greed
It's a heavily modified Sazabi Ver Ka, with at least two shoulder shields from a Zaku kit.
The Gyan is a design I never liked, but there are a lot of great variants for it (the Krieger, the Cannon, & the Marine just off the top of my head).
so I'm very excited
ineedmayo.com Eidolon Journal Updated
I think I am going to scrib it and plaplate it as well
Yes. You can put paint on top of anything. Gloss surfaces will be the worst for adherence, primer or matte surfaces will be best.
Base-panel line-matte-detailing-matte-weathering-gloss or matte
There are a lot of variables depending on what you want to do, be it pre-shading, chrome metallics, etc. Some general advice:
1) Prime before you paint. It makes a big difference in how well your paint will adhere.
2) Always paint in at least two thin coats. If you put down paint thick enough to only need one coat, you'll get brush strokes and other messiness to it.
3) If you paint your model, your top coat should be a gloss coat followed by a matte coat (unless you want glossy look). If you don't paint, a matte coat alone is sufficient and will greatly improve the final appearance. Gloss coats are much more protective than matte coats.
4) If you're applying waterslides, gloss coat prior to application. This will prevent fogging. Coat again once complete to prevent waterslides from falling off.
5) If you're painting a chrome metallic, first prime with a glossy black. Then lightly mist the chrome paint. Stop applying chrome long before you think it's silvery enough, as it will turn more silver as it dries. If you overspray chrome paint, you just end up with a silver appearance instead of chrome. * Molotow Chrome may be an exception to this, I haven't tried it yet but hear really good things.
6) Gundam Markers are great for adding details and absolutely garbage at actually painting a model. Never apply one gundam marker over another, as it will reactive the base color and leave you with a streaky mess.
Is the answer just photographing from further away so you can't tell?
Light sanding works too.
NON-ACETONE nail polish remover and a cotton swab will lift it if it dries and just keep rotating to a clear side to completely remove the streaks, but make goddamn sure that it's non-acetone before you put it anywhere near your Gundam or else you're going to melt a hole straight through your kit.
Steam
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Steam
Thank you for the reminder. I personally haven't had any bad experiences with lighter fluid, but enamel thinner destroyed several joints in one of my unpainted kits, which is why I enamel panel line on painted kits only.
edit: it's got a few things where the instructions probably did things in slightly the wrong order for if you want to paint things, and there's a few issues, like the fact that it's really only supposed to be in landing position, so the front ramp moves up and down but can't actually close. But it's a lot of fun trying to work around that and figure it out.
Steam // Secret Satan
Yaaay they're branching off from 0079! Yaaaay this probably means we'll get 0083 suits!
(and 0080 stuff like the Kampfer and Zaku FZ are basically guaranteed now. Particularly the FZ since it's directly involved in the scene where the Alex ends up that way)
Resident 8bitdo expert.
Resident hybrid/flap cover expert.
Here's some more pics for your viewing pleasure:
Gallery with 2 more pics:
https://imgur.com/a/sWeYD
I'm just excited because we're probably getting a GM Command now. Not to mention it opens up tons of possibilities. Now that we know that the A.N.I.M.E line is going to go past the original series 0083, 8th MS team, and even Thunderbolt and Origin figures are possible.
Resident 8bitdo expert.
Resident hybrid/flap cover expert.
hoping for hy-gogg and cold climate GM
Wouldn't be surprised if the armor comes with the Kampfer and interacts with a gimmick in some way. They've done stuff like that before.
edit: and yes I'm specifically referring to the scene with the mine-whip thing, whatever thats called.
Resident 8bitdo expert.
Resident hybrid/flap cover expert.
Even if they are a little out of scale I would definitely grab a hy-gogg to put with my MSIA collection. I've always been disappointed that Bandai never made more MSIA from War in the Pocket. They stopped at the NT-1 and the Kampfer. They also could have done more with Stardust Memory as well. At the very least it would have been super easy to do a repaint of the Zaku II version one or version two in Earth Federation colors and some of the Zeon Africa guerrilla colors.
I was under the impression that all the pre Robot Spirits lines were supposed to be merged together into Robot Spirits. IIRC at one point there was MSIA, EMSIA, Fix Figuration/Zeonography, HCM, SCM (or some other type of HCM line), and Fusion Works.
But then of course Bandai made Assault Kingdom, whatever the newer Assault Kingdom type pocket figure line is, and this new one that is roughly 4" scale and bigger than Assault Kingdom and it's follow on line.
I am terrified
Steam // Secret Satan
it's got a fully detailed interior, with a removable roof, and a door behind them. I've sprayed it with a black undercoat at the moment, but here's a photo from earlier. There's also a few things that are going to get stuck on which make it look more like a cockpit, but i'm just leaving them off for now for ease of painting.
it's also got all sorts of widgets and details to stick on the walls, including a coffee machine. The ship also has it's own bathroom. It's a really, really cool kit.
Steam // Secret Satan
edit: to avoid triple posting I also love having a 28mm scale model that's this detailed. It's a lot of fun to put warhammer models and whatever in them
Steam // Secret Satan