So an acquaintance of mine owns a computer shop and is willing to sell me a Zotac 1060 TI for $415cdn.
Is this a good enough deal in today's market?
Hes not doing you a very big favor if hes selling it to you that much over MSRP, give or take a 50 thats practically what they are selling for now with the stupid fuck crypto inflation.
Buttcleft on
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Dhalphirdon't you open that trapdooryou're a fool if you dareRegistered Userregular
Is selling a used 980Ti with a bad fan bearing a realistic possibility for selling as-is, or would I better off sorting a replacement cooler and selling together?
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3cl1ps3I will build a labyrinth to house the cheeseRegistered Userregular
Depends on what kind of price you're asking for it, I suppose.
So an acquaintance of mine owns a computer shop and is willing to sell me a Zotac 1060 TI for $415cdn.
Is this a good enough deal in today's market?
Hes not doing you a very big favor if hes selling it to you that much over MSRP, give or take a 50 thats practically what they are selling for now with the stupid fuck crypto inflation.
Yeah that's sort of what I was thinking. I'm probably gonna keep holding out.
Is selling a used 980Ti with a bad fan bearing a realistic possibility for selling as-is, or would I better off sorting a replacement cooler and selling together?
In this market you could probably sell a used 980ti with no fan whatsoever and with the TIM between the die and heatsink replaced with peanut butter and you could still probably make a decent amount of money.
So after my desktop replacement laptop has been showing its age I feel like it might time to get a proper desktop (as a desktop replacement replacement ).
I did some searching but honestly I am very much out of the loop on the hardware side of things, so I would love to hear some recommendations on what to get.
The budget is around 1400-1500 euro, can be more if something really fits the bill. The intention of the system is to be a workstation/gaming rig, on which I intend to dual boot on Linux (for work) and Windows (for gaming). I require 16gig of RAM, around 256gig SSD with a regular HD for data. As far as graphics cards go, I would be happy with a 1060, as I do not play games that really require beefy hardware, but I want to leave in the option, as well as maybe some basic VR stuff.
I do not intend to overclock, but it would be great if the system is reasonably silent. The big main requirement is that the system should be rock solid and stable, and I do not have to do some huge arcane magics to get the hardware up and running on Linux (well, not more than usual).
I have also heard that the market for buying is horrid currently, with some articles suggesting pre-built gaming desktops as a option. Is there some merit to doing that?
Any builds and recommendations are very much appreciated!
So after my desktop replacement laptop has been showing its age I feel like it might time to get a proper desktop (as a desktop replacement replacement ).
I did some searching but honestly I am very much out of the loop on the hardware side of things, so I would love to hear some recommendations on what to get.
The budget is around 1400-1500 euro, can be more if something really fits the bill. The intention of the system is to be a workstation/gaming rig, on which I intend to dual boot on Linux (for work) and Windows (for gaming). I require 16gig of RAM, around 256gig SSD with a regular HD for data. As far as graphics cards go, I would be happy with a 1060, as I do not play games that really require beefy hardware, but I want to leave in the option, as well as maybe some basic VR stuff.
I do not intend to overclock, but it would be great if the system is reasonably silent. The big main requirement is that the system should be rock solid and stable, and I do not have to do some huge arcane magics to get the hardware up and running on Linux (well, not more than usual).
I have also heard that the market for buying is horrid currently, with some articles suggesting pre-built gaming desktops as a option. Is there some merit to doing that?
Any builds and recommendations are very much appreciated!
Yeah, at this point GPUs are so inflated that if you want a decent gaming pc on a budget, prebuilts are your best bet. Some places are selling "bundles" where if you buy a mobo and CPU and GPU together you can get a reasonable price. If you can find one of those, go for it.
I know basically nothing about Linux compatibility so I don't want to make any bad suggestions.
One of my HDDs is getting a little long in the tooth and should probably be replaced before too long. Mostly it's used to hold games that aren't being actively played and media.
Are WD Reds the current pick for big storage and long life where speed isn't much of a concern?
Sure, but if the WD Blue is appreciably cheaper maybe just buy that? I'm not sure if it makes *that* much of a difference unless the red drive is actually sitting in a NAS.
So after my desktop replacement laptop has been showing its age I feel like it might time to get a proper desktop (as a desktop replacement replacement ).
I did some searching but honestly I am very much out of the loop on the hardware side of things, so I would love to hear some recommendations on what to get.
The budget is around 1400-1500 euro, can be more if something really fits the bill. The intention of the system is to be a workstation/gaming rig, on which I intend to dual boot on Linux (for work) and Windows (for gaming). I require 16gig of RAM, around 256gig SSD with a regular HD for data. As far as graphics cards go, I would be happy with a 1060, as I do not play games that really require beefy hardware, but I want to leave in the option, as well as maybe some basic VR stuff.
I do not intend to overclock, but it would be great if the system is reasonably silent. The big main requirement is that the system should be rock solid and stable, and I do not have to do some huge arcane magics to get the hardware up and running on Linux (well, not more than usual).
I have also heard that the market for buying is horrid currently, with some articles suggesting pre-built gaming desktops as a option. Is there some merit to doing that?
Any builds and recommendations are very much appreciated!
I have a STRIX GTX 970, and it plays most VR stuff just fine, so a 1060 should do pretty well too. However, some VR games are a bit too much for it. Fallout 4 VR is on lowest settings and *mostly* works. If you really want to future-proof, you might want to go for a little more.
Unfortunately, until we get to the other side of crypto speculating, it's incredibly difficult to get a decent deal. @Terrendos has good advice, if you can't wait for the market to correct.
So after my desktop replacement laptop has been showing its age I feel like it might time to get a proper desktop (as a desktop replacement replacement ).
I did some searching but honestly I am very much out of the loop on the hardware side of things, so I would love to hear some recommendations on what to get.
The budget is around 1400-1500 euro, can be more if something really fits the bill. The intention of the system is to be a workstation/gaming rig, on which I intend to dual boot on Linux (for work) and Windows (for gaming). I require 16gig of RAM, around 256gig SSD with a regular HD for data. As far as graphics cards go, I would be happy with a 1060, as I do not play games that really require beefy hardware, but I want to leave in the option, as well as maybe some basic VR stuff.
I do not intend to overclock, but it would be great if the system is reasonably silent. The big main requirement is that the system should be rock solid and stable, and I do not have to do some huge arcane magics to get the hardware up and running on Linux (well, not more than usual).
I have also heard that the market for buying is horrid currently, with some articles suggesting pre-built gaming desktops as a option. Is there some merit to doing that?
Any builds and recommendations are very much appreciated!
I have a STRIX GTX 970, and it plays most VR stuff just fine, so a 1060 should do pretty well too. However, some VR games are a bit too much for it. Fallout 4 VR is on lowest settings and *mostly* works. If you really want to future-proof, you might want to go for a little more.
Unfortunately, until we get to the other side of crypto speculating, it's incredibly difficult to get a decent deal. @Terrendos has good advice, if you can't wait for the market to correct.
Thanks for the advice. I was eyeing the HP Omen 880. It looked fine on paper i7, 16 gig of RAM, 1060 GPU, 256 SSD with a HD for 1400 euro. The thing that worried me on the data sheet was the 300 Watt PSU because I really do not want to skimp on that. Any clue about the build quality and reliablity on these things? Most online reviews read like infomercials so I have no clue.
To go beyond this and get a 1070 I am generally in the 1700 euro range, at least on the prebuilt side of things.
Beware: The 3GB 1060 is not really VR ready. I see an Omen on the HP website that has an RX 580 4gb and a Ryzen 5 1600 for under 800 USD, the 800-010z. At that price, you could almost part out the GPU and CPU to resell at profit.
If I had to build a VR gaming pc for under 1k USD today, I would start with the base model of that pc and then buy myself an SSD, another 8gb stick of RAM, and maybe a better power supply. Grab the windows license and do a fresh Windows 10 install on the SSD, then wipe the HDD and call it a day.
@Newres you may want to check /r/buildapcsales on Reddit and see if your specific deal (or a different but similar one) is posted, and see what people have to say. I have gotten generally good info and feedback from there.
The 300W PSU is a bit low without reading the datasheet and seeing the PSU's sticker itself, but it isn't outlandishly low. The 10-series GPUs are more power efficient than the 800s and 900s.
What I don't know is whether HP is engaging in fuckery and using a non-standard PSU size/design for the case.
yea, if an OEM is building a PC the PSU will definitely have the capacity. There won't be a ton of headroom, but because of economies of scale they literally pay hardware engineers to determine that a specific combination of components will require X number of watts at their max TDP and thus we need *exactly* Y number of watts for the power supply and that means that going with Y power supply instead of the Y+10 Watts power supply means that the company will save more money than that hardware engineer's salary for the year beause they but them in batches of 25,000 direct from the factory that actually builds the things. (just making that number up)
However, the concern about it not being a standard ATX size power supply are legit.
Is selling a used 980Ti with a bad fan bearing a realistic possibility for selling as-is, or would I better off sorting a replacement cooler and selling together?
In this market you could probably sell a used 980ti with no fan whatsoever and with the TIM between the die and heatsink replaced with peanut butter and you could still probably make a decent amount of money.
What would it cost to get a replacement fan?
I have no idea because everywhere I've looked for one I can't find one. The only option anyones been able to give me would be adding an aftermarket liquid cooler and I don't know if that's a good option.
However that said I've only looked locally, I haven't looked at solutions that involve ordering anything online as a replacement. I'm kind of figuring it's going to be easier to take a small price hit on the resale value in exchange for not having to bother with replacing the cooler myself.
I guess I also don't know really what I'm looking for, whether it's possible to simply replace the fan in the existing cooler, or whether it's a sealed part and I'd be up for an entirely new cooler.
Depends on what kind of price you're asking for it, I suppose.
Honestly have no idea, used prices for them seem to vary wildly, and I don't know how much is fair to knock off for the faulty fan bearing in the cooler.
My EVGA 1080 TI, which I purchased in July, is losing all DisplayPort capability, but after a quick product registration, EVGA is sending me a replacement.
You can either send the defective one and wait for a replacement, or get a replacement immeidately, pay the cost and send the dead one for a refund upon reciept.
Yep; I had to do the warranty swap with my 1080 about 3 months ago. It's been chugging along nicely since then. EVGA's process -- while not as interactive as I'd prefer -- was still relatively painless.
I go with MBR on drives intended to be storage/backup, since I know that I have had great success recovering data off failing MBR drives before. I've never had cause to try with GPT, so it's just me being paranoid.
One of my server drives is FAT32 because I was being extra extra paranoid when I set it up. It is the cause of much frustration. A 4gb file size limit is surprisingly annoying on a storage drive.
So I'm looking to upgrade my PC - I already have a 1060 6GB from before the crypto-craze, so that's my starting-off point. I'm mostly looking for something for gaming, although maybe some streaming is also a possibility? I don't follow the hardware world too closely, so I'm open to suggestions or good comparison guides.
So I'm looking to upgrade my PC - I already have a 1060 6GB from before the crypto-craze, so that's my starting-off point. I'm mostly looking for something for gaming, although maybe some streaming is also a possibility? I don't follow the hardware world too closely, so I'm open to suggestions or good comparison guides.
I already own the GPU, case, power-supply. So I'm mostly looking to upgrade my CPU/motherboard/RAM/hardrive.
Rosewill PSU?
Thats somehow a cheap garbage PSU thats paradoxically more expensive than a EVGA Supernova.
Never use cheap/garbage quality name PSUs, when PSUs die they tend to take the entire system with them, and cheap garbage name PSUs die far more frequently.
So I'm looking to upgrade my PC - I already have a 1060 6GB from before the crypto-craze, so that's my starting-off point. I'm mostly looking for something for gaming, although maybe some streaming is also a possibility? I don't follow the hardware world too closely, so I'm open to suggestions or good comparison guides.
I already own the GPU, case, power-supply. So I'm mostly looking to upgrade my CPU/motherboard/RAM/hardrive.
Rosewill PSU?
Thats somehow a cheap garbage PSU thats paradoxically more expensive than a EVGA Supernova.
Never use cheap/garbage quality name PSUs, when PSUs die they tend to take the entire system with them, and cheap garbage name PSUs die far more frequently.
So I'm looking to upgrade my PC - I already have a 1060 6GB from before the crypto-craze, so that's my starting-off point. I'm mostly looking for something for gaming, although maybe some streaming is also a possibility? I don't follow the hardware world too closely, so I'm open to suggestions or good comparison guides.
I already own the GPU, case, power-supply. So I'm mostly looking to upgrade my CPU/motherboard/RAM/hardrive.
Rosewill PSU?
Thats somehow a cheap garbage PSU thats paradoxically more expensive than a EVGA Supernova.
Never use cheap/garbage quality name PSUs, when PSUs die they tend to take the entire system with them, and cheap garbage name PSUs die far more frequently.
better motherboard (make sure to update the bios though), better ram. bigger and and cheaper monitor, better PSU, for about the same price (well techniaclly cheaper, but i didnt put an OS choice on it), and a nice 500gb SSD
the 1600 is better if you want to overclock(stock cooler is actually good on this and can handle a decent OC with good thermal grease), if you dont want to then pick up the 1600x (doesnt come with a HSF) and cooler (Like any of the Coolermaster 212 variants) for the general better speed and performance. plus with a big honkin coolermaster on it you can OC it later (though generally you wont go beyond 4ghz, 4.1ghz if you won the silicon lottery)
You can also look around on those parts and save 5-10 bucks here and there, maybe more if you are diligent.
I don't think there's any point in buying an X370 motherboard for the average PC builder. The parts quality isn't inherently better and the features exclusive to the chipset are unlikely to be used.
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HeatwaveCome, now, and walk the path of explosions with me!Registered Userregular
Looking at those parts lists all I can think of is "god damn ram is expensive."
I don't think there's any point in buying an X370 motherboard for the average PC builder. The parts quality isn't inherently better and the features exclusive to the chipset are unlikely to be used.
future upgradability. b350 doesnt support SLI (b350 supports crossfire, though, but mobile wants a nvidia card), and x370 has more USB3.1 slots and SATA slots.
Also for overclocking b350 tends to not have as many options in the BIOS
Which is worth a 30 dollar price increase, imho, over the b350 board he had in his list.
MSI has a lot of overclocking support built into their B350 boards. Also, with Ryzen Master you don't really even need to get into the BIOS to overclock. I was able to get my R3 1200 to a stable 3.95Ghz @ 1.33v using Ryzen Master alone.
Crossfire is kinda pointless, hardly anything is optimized for it (or SLI).
Port availability could be a deal breaker for some people, that's fair, although it's not like the B350 is starved for ports.
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jungleroomxIt's never too many graves, it's always not enough shovelsRegistered Userregular
edited February 2018
As I was looking for a studio PC, it's come to my attention that a prebuilt for that purpose is probably the way to go.
Building a non-gaming PC right now is fucking ridic, especially since integrated graphics are only on hopelessly outdated boards or $200+ boards. I'd rather not deal with discrete graphics at all.
Thankfully archival storage is dirt fucking cheap, so I'd probably only need a 500gb SSD for normal operations, and add a drive bay so I can just purchase these for working storage.
As I was looking for a studio PC, it's come to my attention that a prebuilt for that purpose is probably the way to go.
Building a non-gaming PC right now is fucking ridic, especially since integrated graphics are only on hopelessly outdated boards or $200+ boards. I'd rather not deal with discrete graphics at all.
Thankfully archival storage is dirt fucking cheap, so I'd probably only need a 500gb SSD for normal operations.
APUs would probably be good, unless you are gaming.
As I was looking for a studio PC, it's come to my attention that a prebuilt for that purpose is probably the way to go.
Building a non-gaming PC right now is fucking ridic, especially since integrated graphics are only on hopelessly outdated boards or $200+ boards. I'd rather not deal with discrete graphics at all.
Thankfully archival storage is dirt fucking cheap, so I'd probably only need a 500gb SSD for normal operations, and add a drive bay so I can just purchase these for working storage.
I'm not sure what you mean by Integrated graphics are only on "hopelessly outdated boards" Integrated graphics live on the CPU, the board has almost nothing to do with it. Any Intel processor will have on board graphics, as will any Ryzen 2xxx series part (the 1xxx Ryzen parts do not have on board GPU's).
To be fair, old school IGPs did in fact reside on the motherboard chipset, so that's where the confusion can lie.
Sure, but the first Intel CPU's with onboard graphics were released in 2010 on the i5-6xx and i3-3xx, and it became a part of every intel CPU starting with the 2xxx series in 2011.
I'm still waiting on my PSU tester to show up (it's taking its sweet-ass time to get out of Hauppage, NY) but I think my problems are getting worse. I'm almost positive that my computer actually will boot itself up for no reason. And it's also, on booting, just hanging at a black screen forever. Restarting doesn't necessarily help it. The only reliable fix seems to be to leave it off for a while. And to add insult to injury, we went on vacation last week and I'm almost positive I turned the computer off when we left and it was on, hung up on a black screen, when I returned home a week later and now it can't seem to connect to the internet with its wired connection. It's possible it the ethernet cable but I don't know. The cable is lighting up on both the Mobo and Router sides.
At any rate, I've switched of the PSU completely so if it boots up again, there is a serious issue and in the meantime, what are the reputable/reliable PSU brands and what are the things I need to know as a PSU checklist? I think my current PSU is a Seasonic 550W Semi-modular Gold or something like that. I'm thinking of going for 650+W this time to give myself a little more room. Is there anything else I need to know?
1) Nearly every Seasonic has a very solid warranty. Even if you haven't registered your product with them, it's worth at least emailing their support staff to see if they can help you.
2) Replacement brands: Corsair, Seasonic, EVGA, OCZ (are they still around?); honorable mention to Thermaltake.
3) Look for high amps on the +12V rail. About 90% of your rig runs off of 12V power. I personally don't think that most people need more than 600W.
4) At least two 8-pin GPU power connectors.
5) Modular to preference.
It sounds like you could potentially have a broken wire or internal short in the power button for your case. If you're so inclined, you can try disconnecting it from the mobo header to see if the system still randomly turns on. It could also potentially be loose wires in the 24-pin connector (though less likely).
I say all this just to temper your expectations, in case you get a new PSU and things still act weird.
Finally, the other silliness happening suggests your mobo is on its way out.
Tom's Hardware has an article out this morning comparing different memory configurations with the Ryzen 2400G, and the TLDR results are always go with dual-channel and fast RAM (2933+).
Single-channel destroys gaming performance vs dual-channel. At 3200Mhz the difference is 23.7fps on Civ IV on medium settings @ 720p.
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I'm assuming you mean like, 1060 6gb? as opposed to 1060 3 gb
Hes not doing you a very big favor if hes selling it to you that much over MSRP, give or take a 50 thats practically what they are selling for now with the stupid fuck crypto inflation.
Yeah that's sort of what I was thinking. I'm probably gonna keep holding out.
In this market you could probably sell a used 980ti with no fan whatsoever and with the TIM between the die and heatsink replaced with peanut butter and you could still probably make a decent amount of money.
What would it cost to get a replacement fan?
So after my desktop replacement laptop has been showing its age I feel like it might time to get a proper desktop (as a desktop replacement replacement
I did some searching but honestly I am very much out of the loop on the hardware side of things, so I would love to hear some recommendations on what to get.
The budget is around 1400-1500 euro, can be more if something really fits the bill. The intention of the system is to be a workstation/gaming rig, on which I intend to dual boot on Linux (for work) and Windows (for gaming). I require 16gig of RAM, around 256gig SSD with a regular HD for data. As far as graphics cards go, I would be happy with a 1060, as I do not play games that really require beefy hardware, but I want to leave in the option, as well as maybe some basic VR stuff.
I do not intend to overclock, but it would be great if the system is reasonably silent. The big main requirement is that the system should be rock solid and stable, and I do not have to do some huge arcane magics to get the hardware up and running on Linux (well, not more than usual).
I have also heard that the market for buying is horrid currently, with some articles suggesting pre-built gaming desktops as a option. Is there some merit to doing that?
Any builds and recommendations are very much appreciated!
Yeah, at this point GPUs are so inflated that if you want a decent gaming pc on a budget, prebuilts are your best bet. Some places are selling "bundles" where if you buy a mobo and CPU and GPU together you can get a reasonable price. If you can find one of those, go for it.
I know basically nothing about Linux compatibility so I don't want to make any bad suggestions.
Sure, but if the WD Blue is appreciably cheaper maybe just buy that? I'm not sure if it makes *that* much of a difference unless the red drive is actually sitting in a NAS.
I have a STRIX GTX 970, and it plays most VR stuff just fine, so a 1060 should do pretty well too. However, some VR games are a bit too much for it. Fallout 4 VR is on lowest settings and *mostly* works. If you really want to future-proof, you might want to go for a little more.
Unfortunately, until we get to the other side of crypto speculating, it's incredibly difficult to get a decent deal. @Terrendos has good advice, if you can't wait for the market to correct.
Thanks for the advice. I was eyeing the HP Omen 880. It looked fine on paper i7, 16 gig of RAM, 1060 GPU, 256 SSD with a HD for 1400 euro. The thing that worried me on the data sheet was the 300 Watt PSU because I really do not want to skimp on that. Any clue about the build quality and reliablity on these things? Most online reviews read like infomercials so I have no clue.
To go beyond this and get a 1070 I am generally in the 1700 euro range, at least on the prebuilt side of things.
If I had to build a VR gaming pc for under 1k USD today, I would start with the base model of that pc and then buy myself an SSD, another 8gb stick of RAM, and maybe a better power supply. Grab the windows license and do a fresh Windows 10 install on the SSD, then wipe the HDD and call it a day.
The 300W PSU is a bit low without reading the datasheet and seeing the PSU's sticker itself, but it isn't outlandishly low. The 10-series GPUs are more power efficient than the 800s and 900s.
What I don't know is whether HP is engaging in fuckery and using a non-standard PSU size/design for the case.
However, the concern about it not being a standard ATX size power supply are legit.
I have no idea because everywhere I've looked for one I can't find one. The only option anyones been able to give me would be adding an aftermarket liquid cooler and I don't know if that's a good option.
However that said I've only looked locally, I haven't looked at solutions that involve ordering anything online as a replacement. I'm kind of figuring it's going to be easier to take a small price hit on the resale value in exchange for not having to bother with replacing the cooler myself.
I guess I also don't know really what I'm looking for, whether it's possible to simply replace the fan in the existing cooler, or whether it's a sealed part and I'd be up for an entirely new cooler.
Honestly have no idea, used prices for them seem to vary wildly, and I don't know how much is fair to knock off for the faulty fan bearing in the cooler.
You can either send the defective one and wait for a replacement, or get a replacement immeidately, pay the cost and send the dead one for a refund upon reciept.
Is there any reason or reasons not to go with GPT for this and any future drives?
One of my server drives is FAT32 because I was being extra extra paranoid when I set it up. It is the cause of much frustration. A 4gb file size limit is surprisingly annoying on a storage drive.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1500X 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($159.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI - B350 PC MATE ATX AM4 Motherboard ($89.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($184.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($99.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB SC GAMING Video Card ($369.89 @ B&H)
Power Supply: Rosewill - Stallion 700W ATX Power Supply ($106.11 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($89.89 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus - VS248HR 24.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor ($309.89 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Total: $1410.44
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-02-25 19:25 EST-0500
I already own the GPU, case, power-supply. So I'm mostly looking to upgrade my CPU/motherboard/RAM/hardrive.
Blizzard: Pailryder#1101
GoG: https://www.gog.com/u/pailryder
Rosewill PSU?
Thats somehow a cheap garbage PSU thats paradoxically more expensive than a EVGA Supernova.
Never use cheap/garbage quality name PSUs, when PSUs die they tend to take the entire system with them, and cheap garbage name PSUs die far more frequently.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438025&cm_re=evga_supernova_bronze-_-17-438-025-_-Product
Got it. I have the PSU from my previous build, but I'll probably toss an upgrade for that in, as well.
Yeah, toss that and be thankful it served you without screwing you.
PSU is never the part you one to cheap out on. You can cheap ou on everything but the PSU mate.
Also
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4P06J93614&cm_re=dell_27_inch_monitor-_-0JC-0004-006F4-_-Product bigger monitor, 75hz refresh over 60, for half the price.
infact, here.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($188.90 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI - X370 GAMING PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard ($121.49 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill - Flare X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($219.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial - MX500 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($134.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($46.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB SC GAMING Video Card ($369.89 @ B&H)
Power Supply: EVGA - 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($95.88 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Dell - SE2717H 27.0" 1920x1080 75Hz Monitor ($159.95 @ Adorama)
Total: $1337.47
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-02-25 20:04 EST-0500
better motherboard (make sure to update the bios though), better ram. bigger and and cheaper monitor, better PSU, for about the same price (well techniaclly cheaper, but i didnt put an OS choice on it), and a nice 500gb SSD
the 1600 is better if you want to overclock(stock cooler is actually good on this and can handle a decent OC with good thermal grease), if you dont want to then pick up the 1600x (doesnt come with a HSF) and cooler (Like any of the Coolermaster 212 variants) for the general better speed and performance. plus with a big honkin coolermaster on it you can OC it later (though generally you wont go beyond 4ghz, 4.1ghz if you won the silicon lottery)
You can also look around on those parts and save 5-10 bucks here and there, maybe more if you are diligent.
Blizzard: Pailryder#1101
GoG: https://www.gog.com/u/pailryder
Steam / Origin & Wii U: Heatwave111 / FC: 4227-1965-3206 / Battle.net: Heatwave#11356
future upgradability. b350 doesnt support SLI (b350 supports crossfire, though, but mobile wants a nvidia card), and x370 has more USB3.1 slots and SATA slots.
Also for overclocking b350 tends to not have as many options in the BIOS
Which is worth a 30 dollar price increase, imho, over the b350 board he had in his list.
Crossfire is kinda pointless, hardly anything is optimized for it (or SLI).
Port availability could be a deal breaker for some people, that's fair, although it's not like the B350 is starved for ports.
Building a non-gaming PC right now is fucking ridic, especially since integrated graphics are only on hopelessly outdated boards or $200+ boards. I'd rather not deal with discrete graphics at all.
Thankfully archival storage is dirt fucking cheap, so I'd probably only need a 500gb SSD for normal operations, and add a drive bay so I can just purchase these for working storage.
APUs would probably be good, unless you are gaming.
I'm not sure what you mean by Integrated graphics are only on "hopelessly outdated boards" Integrated graphics live on the CPU, the board has almost nothing to do with it. Any Intel processor will have on board graphics, as will any Ryzen 2xxx series part (the 1xxx Ryzen parts do not have on board GPU's).
Sure, but the first Intel CPU's with onboard graphics were released in 2010 on the i5-6xx and i3-3xx, and it became a part of every intel CPU starting with the 2xxx series in 2011.
At any rate, I've switched of the PSU completely so if it boots up again, there is a serious issue and in the meantime, what are the reputable/reliable PSU brands and what are the things I need to know as a PSU checklist? I think my current PSU is a Seasonic 550W Semi-modular Gold or something like that. I'm thinking of going for 650+W this time to give myself a little more room. Is there anything else I need to know?
SteamID: edgruberman GOG Galaxy: EdGruberman
2) Replacement brands: Corsair, Seasonic, EVGA, OCZ (are they still around?); honorable mention to Thermaltake.
3) Look for high amps on the +12V rail. About 90% of your rig runs off of 12V power. I personally don't think that most people need more than 600W.
4) At least two 8-pin GPU power connectors.
5) Modular to preference.
It sounds like you could potentially have a broken wire or internal short in the power button for your case. If you're so inclined, you can try disconnecting it from the mobo header to see if the system still randomly turns on. It could also potentially be loose wires in the 24-pin connector (though less likely).
I say all this just to temper your expectations, in case you get a new PSU and things still act weird.
Finally, the other silliness happening suggests your mobo is on its way out.
Single-channel destroys gaming performance vs dual-channel. At 3200Mhz the difference is 23.7fps on Civ IV on medium settings @ 720p.