valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
edited April 2018
I've been thinking about my future Sisters of Battle army and how I'd like to paint them. I really like the sallette helms when they are painted white with the rest of the armor black, giving it a nice contrast, but I've sort of want to paint their armor white. I thought maybe about painting a light grey, and painting the visors on the helmets white, like this:
To flesh out my growing Death Guard I picked up another 2 Lords of Contagion from Ebay for like $4 a piece. Planning on running them as a supreme command detachment and painting them as different Vectorums because A) easy identification and Fun...
The one at the top of the page is your standard Death Guard Green guy. Planning on doing a Favoured Sons Lord (metal armor, green trim) and a Glooming Lords Lord (Black armor, green trim)
Gloming Lords - Black armor, elysian green trim, different shade of green cape and purple tinted guts? Or maybe purple hued guts and a sackcloth brown cape?
Favoured Sons Lord - Metallic/leadbelcher Armor, Death guard green trim, black cape, whitish-blue corpsey guts?
What colors would make sense for capes and guts?
AGH... then I need contrasting smoke colors and axe hafts as well!!
Ooh, you should try to tie in each one with one of the three skulls of the death guard symbol
Ok... I really like that idea
I'm kinda set on one of them being black and green, so I'll have to recolor one of the completed faces on the first standard black and do something to the second. The nurgle face is already green and matches the first LoC.
This is a good idea... I think I can run with this.
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
Hey thread. I fell down a rabbit hole, and would like some help. I found a box copy of an old tabletop game I liked, and now I'm trying to find replacements for 20 year out of production models.
I'm looking to maybe kitbash a model based on this art, in 10mm/Nscale:
According to my maths, the legs from sole to top of hip should be approximately 47 mm. So now I'm looking at tyranid legs, trying to figure out what's closest in size.
Anyone able to tell me which legs are closest to my desired size, between Tyrants, Warriors, or Canifex?
Don’t know any measurements for Warmachine stuff, I just have a photographic memory for miniature robot legs.
Most of the warjacks average dreadnought size. Not sure if that helps or not.
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
It's a light, so they're a bit smaller than that. Unfortunately I don't have any of the newer stuff so I can't measure it out. It's probably around 2-2.25".
Long time no see friends.. Finally finding motivation to paint again. Skills aren't up to par that many of you display here that utterly stun me but at least back in the saddle. Legion and shadespire got me motivated again
Since the units in Legion are all based on the unit leader I just designated the squad leaders bases different colors to ID the different units on the table (when needed)
I'm building some terrain and need a couple of ideas:
1. Some sort of material for windows. I've got MDF some buildings that I'd like to put "Glass" on the windows on. I saw a cool effect using clear white glue that dries clear, but I think these window openings are too large so some kind of plastic film might work better. Any material suggestions?
2. On the subject of those buildings with windows, those buildings are on snow terrain. I'm thinking about trying to pile some snow up in them, any cool suggestions for stuff to do on that front to make them look cold, frosted, or snowy?
And then that leads us to 3. Any cool tips for weathering/decorating buildings in a snow area? These are metal/concrete industrial buildings on terrain, so I'm thinking I'll try to do some rust drips, snow piles, etc.
What is this I don't even.
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
I'm building some terrain and need a couple of ideas:
1. Some sort of material for windows. I've got MDF some buildings that I'd like to put "Glass" on the windows on. I saw a cool effect using clear white glue that dries clear, but I think these window openings are too large so some kind of plastic film might work better. Any material suggestions?
2. On the subject of those buildings with windows, those buildings are on snow terrain. I'm thinking about trying to pile some snow up in them, any cool suggestions for stuff to do on that front to make them look cold, frosted, or snowy?
And then that leads us to 3. Any cool tips for weathering/decorating buildings in a snow area? These are metal/concrete industrial buildings on terrain, so I'm thinking I'll try to do some rust drips, snow piles, etc.
I wonder if you could use water effects for the windows? Not sure how thin you can get them and have them still maintain integrity though. Should still be stronger than white glue, even if it is thin.
Otherwise maybe some clear plasticard could work. Rough the inside up a bit with some fine grain sandpaper so it's not completely clear. Paint some light blue/white bits in the corners of the windows to make them look like they're frosting over.
Water effects can also make icicles to hang off any overhangs on the buildings which could help.
+1
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
I can tell you this: avoid the GW snow texture paint like the plague. It is hot garbage. I'm basing my Legion minis in a sort of 'Spring thaw' style with little spots of snow and the best stuff I've found is GF9 snow and Secret Weapon realistic water mixed into a paste then snow sprinkled on top. Looks great.
I think the real questions is: Where do you find chainsaw ice skates so the space marines can enjoy some nice competitive hockey games in their down time?
If you wanted to get cheap on windows, just cut up a plastic soda/water bottle. And you can use what ever you use for sand as a base for snow, just paint it white. Or just use actual sand. But I'm a cheap bastard. (hence making my own transport trays)
I think the real questions is: Where do you find chainsaw ice skates so the space marines can enjoy some nice competitive hockey games in their down time?
I can tell you this: avoid the GW snow texture paint like the plague. It is hot garbage.
I dunno, i think its quite good?
Better than any mixture powder i've used, but i admit i've not experimented very much
While I have no experience with the GW product, any snow you've ever seen from me was a mix of white glue, water, and GF9 snow. That includes the glacial kings. Ratios are super important with this stuff, because let me tell ya I've made some fucking slop too.
GW minis and paint, I'm using a couple of GW brushes as well (small dry/med dry/small and med layer)
Are army painter brushes comparable/better/worse (the games shop nearby sells them as well), or should I be hitting up an art store?
Most people will recommend Winsor & Newton series 7 brushes. My experiences with them recently have skewed negative and I may just be unlucky. I've had about a 3:1 ratio of their branded brushes being bad to good so I've recently picked up a set of BrokenToad brushes and they're amazing.
GW's Artificer medium (coincidentally manufactured by Winsor & Newton) is possibly the best brush I've ever owned. Raphael is another brand that I've had mixed results with though that was because I didn't properly care for them (see below). It can be a real crapshoot.
Generally any Kolinsky sable brush will perform pretty well. You want to look for longer bristles to prevent paint from drying out in them quickly and a nice fine point. You should be able to do detail work even with a larger brush because the point is so sharp. Buy one of the round containers of brush soap and use it to wash your fancy brushes whenever you're finished painting for the day.
Good brushes are a quality of life investment. They won't make you a better painter but they will enable you to become a better painter.
I basically use a Raphael Kolinsky Sable Size 0 (Model 8404) for everything and love it. Going to it from GW brushes was a revelation, I felt like I gained so much brush control.
I heard people talking about Winsor and Newton Series 7 and gave one a try once... and hated it. It felt the same as a GW brush, which apparently they are so that makes sense!
So I guess you need to do some trial and error for yourself to see what you prefer.
Plagueburst Crawler conversion! The official model is pretty derpy looking to me, and like all 40k tanks, the stupid thing is backwards. So I flipped it around, replaced the GIGANTIC mortar with a more sensibly sized sawed-off Basilisk cannon and gunshield. Looks more like a Stug style assault gun now, which I think is cool.
Mega Kill Drone which I'll be using as a Heldrake. Again, official model is pretty darn goofy. Never liked the robot dragon and it's giant gaping butthole. Also I feel like the model really doesn't fit the rules in 8th edition. It's not a jetfighter anymore, its more like a flying dreadnought. This feller is a knight carapace with stormwolf engines, an idea I totally ripped off a way cooler conversion.
And a couple Nurgle Blightspawns I hacked together from the Blight Kings kit and random other stuff.
It would work pretty well in an Ad Mech army as well. Or as some kind of transport/objective/end boss/security patrol ship for Necromunda. Its compact design makes it a good fit for slowly floating through the underhive.
If I'm building and painting something in components (gw plastic), do I need to tape off areas that I'll be glueing later? Or does the gw plastic work paint-to-paint?
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
edited April 2018
Plastic 'glue' isn't glue, it's a solvent that melts the plastic together like welding. It needs to be plastic to plastic to bond. I keep a supply of poster tack putty handy and stick it on any contact points before priming/painting. You could also just scrape the paint off with a knife before gluing too but that requires a little more finesse less you mess up your paintjob.
Super Glue is whatever but you generally want to bond the bare model and not paint.
I’d never seen a plagueburst without the big plate over the tracks, are they just corrupted Nurgle Sicaran battle tanks?
When I originally saw pictures of the PBC kit, I instantly said "Oh snap! I can totally make a plastic Sicaran!", but then I saw one in person and it's the same size as a rhino. The plates are still over the tracks, I just took off the giant cow-catcher on the front. They probably just look more prominent when they're front-facing.
I was originally hoping I could leave the side-plates off, seeing as there's so much cool detail on the track runners, but the kit isn't designed with any top tracklinks or drive train, just big empty gaps.
I'm jealous that his has more guns. And a way better paintjob than mine ever will.
I'm sad the Heldrake rules dont have more firepower. I like my killdrone, but it looks woefully under-armed for how big it is. Just a little squirt gun and some molesty-tentacles.
I tried mounting the stormfang wings onto the engines of mine as well, but it made it look too much like an atmospheric flyer. I wanted something that looked like it hovered along the ground and was able to tie things up in melee.
Plastic 'glue' isn't glue, it's a solvent that melts the plastic together like welding. It needs to be plastic to plastic to bond. I keep a supply of poster tack putty handy and stick it on any contact points before priming/painting. You could also just scrape the paint off with a knife before gluing too but that requires a little more finesse less you mess up your paintjob.
Super Glue is whatever but you generally want to bond the bare model and not paint.
Ok cool.
Poster tack is what I've been using. It's kind of a pain on smaller models... But I thought I was on the right track.
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
edited April 2018
Poster tack is like the mini painter's duct tape. You can use it to test out how pieces will look/fit without gluing, affix them to a cork/pill bottle/paint pot to paint without handling the mini, affix them to paint stirrers/whatever to easily manipulate them while spray priming/varnishing, and masking contact points or parts of the mini.
Yeah it’s a gel consistency plastic glue with a metal needle applicator. The only stuff I’ll use on plastic models. Doesn’t run, doesn’t clog, I love it.
Posts
Ok... I really like that idea
I'm kinda set on one of them being black and green, so I'll have to recolor one of the completed faces on the first standard black and do something to the second. The nurgle face is already green and matches the first LoC.
This is a good idea... I think I can run with this.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I'm looking to maybe kitbash a model based on this art, in 10mm/Nscale:
According to my maths, the legs from sole to top of hip should be approximately 47 mm. So now I'm looking at tyranid legs, trying to figure out what's closest in size.
Anyone able to tell me which legs are closest to my desired size, between Tyrants, Warriors, or Canifex?
Thanks! I'll take a look at those.
[Edit] How tall is the Harpy?
Most of the warjacks average dreadnought size. Not sure if that helps or not.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Since the units in Legion are all based on the unit leader I just designated the squad leaders bases different colors to ID the different units on the table (when needed)
http://www.waronthetable.com
1. Some sort of material for windows. I've got MDF some buildings that I'd like to put "Glass" on the windows on. I saw a cool effect using clear white glue that dries clear, but I think these window openings are too large so some kind of plastic film might work better. Any material suggestions?
2. On the subject of those buildings with windows, those buildings are on snow terrain. I'm thinking about trying to pile some snow up in them, any cool suggestions for stuff to do on that front to make them look cold, frosted, or snowy?
And then that leads us to 3. Any cool tips for weathering/decorating buildings in a snow area? These are metal/concrete industrial buildings on terrain, so I'm thinking I'll try to do some rust drips, snow piles, etc.
Cellophane
https://www.dickblick.com/products/hygloss-transparent-cellophane/
Thin plastic sheet.
https://www.dickblick.com/products/midwest-products-pvc-super-sheets/
I wonder if you could use water effects for the windows? Not sure how thin you can get them and have them still maintain integrity though. Should still be stronger than white glue, even if it is thin.
Otherwise maybe some clear plasticard could work. Rough the inside up a bit with some fine grain sandpaper so it's not completely clear. Paint some light blue/white bits in the corners of the windows to make them look like they're frosting over.
Water effects can also make icicles to hang off any overhangs on the buildings which could help.
If you really want to bring out the big guns:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yWKuKOd7Npw
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Cut the shape of the window then lay the framework overtop to make it look like multiple panes when it's just one piece.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I dunno, i think its quite good?
Better than any mixture powder i've used, but i admit i've not experimented very much
GW minis and paint, I'm using a couple of GW brushes as well (small dry/med dry/small and med layer)
Are army painter brushes comparable/better/worse (the games shop nearby sells them as well), or should I be hitting up an art store?
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
While I have no experience with the GW product, any snow you've ever seen from me was a mix of white glue, water, and GF9 snow. That includes the glacial kings. Ratios are super important with this stuff, because let me tell ya I've made some fucking slop too.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Most people will recommend Winsor & Newton series 7 brushes. My experiences with them recently have skewed negative and I may just be unlucky. I've had about a 3:1 ratio of their branded brushes being bad to good so I've recently picked up a set of BrokenToad brushes and they're amazing.
GW's Artificer medium (coincidentally manufactured by Winsor & Newton) is possibly the best brush I've ever owned. Raphael is another brand that I've had mixed results with though that was because I didn't properly care for them (see below). It can be a real crapshoot.
Generally any Kolinsky sable brush will perform pretty well. You want to look for longer bristles to prevent paint from drying out in them quickly and a nice fine point. You should be able to do detail work even with a larger brush because the point is so sharp. Buy one of the round containers of brush soap and use it to wash your fancy brushes whenever you're finished painting for the day.
Good brushes are a quality of life investment. They won't make you a better painter but they will enable you to become a better painter.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I heard people talking about Winsor and Newton Series 7 and gave one a try once... and hated it. It felt the same as a GW brush, which apparently they are so that makes sense!
So I guess you need to do some trial and error for yourself to see what you prefer.
I've been using these brushes and have no regrets.
Plagueburst Crawler conversion! The official model is pretty derpy looking to me, and like all 40k tanks, the stupid thing is backwards. So I flipped it around, replaced the GIGANTIC mortar with a more sensibly sized sawed-off Basilisk cannon and gunshield. Looks more like a Stug style assault gun now, which I think is cool.
Mega Kill Drone which I'll be using as a Heldrake. Again, official model is pretty darn goofy. Never liked the robot dragon and it's giant gaping butthole. Also I feel like the model really doesn't fit the rules in 8th edition. It's not a jetfighter anymore, its more like a flying dreadnought. This feller is a knight carapace with stormwolf engines, an idea I totally ripped off a way cooler conversion.
And a couple Nurgle Blightspawns I hacked together from the Blight Kings kit and random other stuff.
That kill drone is awesome
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Slowly coming along.
It would work pretty well in an Ad Mech army as well. Or as some kind of transport/objective/end boss/security patrol ship for Necromunda. Its compact design makes it a good fit for slowly floating through the underhive.
I feel like it needs to be plastic to plastic
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Super Glue is whatever but you generally want to bond the bare model and not paint.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
When I originally saw pictures of the PBC kit, I instantly said "Oh snap! I can totally make a plastic Sicaran!", but then I saw one in person and it's the same size as a rhino. The plates are still over the tracks, I just took off the giant cow-catcher on the front. They probably just look more prominent when they're front-facing.
I was originally hoping I could leave the side-plates off, seeing as there's so much cool detail on the track runners, but the kit isn't designed with any top tracklinks or drive train, just big empty gaps.
EDIT: I finally found the original conversion I stole the idea from!
http://leskouzes.blogspot.ca/2015/06/scarabee-intrepide.html
I'm jealous that his has more guns. And a way better paintjob than mine ever will.
I'm sad the Heldrake rules dont have more firepower. I like my killdrone, but it looks woefully under-armed for how big it is. Just a little squirt gun and some molesty-tentacles.
I tried mounting the stormfang wings onto the engines of mine as well, but it made it look too much like an atmospheric flyer. I wanted something that looked like it hovered along the ground and was able to tie things up in melee.
Ok cool.
Poster tack is what I've been using. It's kind of a pain on smaller models... But I thought I was on the right track.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
It is the best stuff.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
No it's a plastic glue with the cone like nozzle
Is magnetization as easy as drill hole and glue in magnet?
Do I need to cover them with green stuff or something to prevent the pieces coming apart and leaving a magnet behind?
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6