Reaper minis are super cheap to practice on, but I always feel like I’m wasting precious painting time on minis that aren’t in an army.
That’s why it’s good to step back sometimes and remember that painting isn’t about making army quotas, it’s about enjoying yourself.
It can be real easy to think of painting of a chore that has to be done when your painting an army. The best thing I ever did with my painting is deciding to treat it like a seperate hobby. Now I paint to improve myself and because I enjoy it a lot more I paint much more frequently than I ever did.
The knock on effect is that my army is always completely painted because I get through so many more models than I ever did before.
Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
Purple
So I've got a question about green stuff. If I wanted to get started on painting some minis I'm going to be adding some green stuff details onto, can I add the details later and paint them, or should I apply them first? Basically I want to know if painting before applying green stuff is a bad idea or will interfere if I later want to add green stuff to a mini
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
green stuff first then paint, if you do it the other way around all the greenstuff has to hold on to is paint. which means a solid knock and your greenstuffed detail is going to fall off and take a chunk of the paint off the model with it.
Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
Purple
Okay so, here is my first attempt at adding greenstuff tentacles to a hormagaunt, I'll be doing more while I have this green stuff made up (tried not to use much but I don't want to waste it) but if you can see anywhere I can obviously do a bit better I'd love the advice. I would also like to know, is there a way to make sure the green stuff doesn't move after applying it? With light thin stuff like face tentacles it seems to sort of droop a little bit if I leave it.
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
green stuff first then paint, if you do it the other way around all the greenstuff has to hold on to is paint. which means a solid knock and your greenstuffed detail is going to fall off and take a chunk of the paint off the model with it.
I done goofed with that a few weeks ago. I had meant to add green stuff to a model I was working on and completely forgot and ended up priming it.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I'd use a bit of blu-tack so that it hands with gravity whilst it dries - useful as well whilst gluing things. I say "I'd use" but I never actually take this advice and usually balance them precariously between a few other minis. Lightning claws and tridents are a life saver here.
When I do some fiddly green stuff, I set it on wax paper, prop it up with some paint bottles, or whatever to keep the shape I want. After it has cured for a bit (maybe three or four hours?) I will apply it to the model. If the fiddly bits are a bit thicker, I will sometimes put a little piece of wire, or other piece of metal (part of a straight pin, chunk of a paper clip, something to help it hold shape) that helps it hold shape, and may help me pin it into place.
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Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
edited September 2018
Purple
What I was doing worked fairly well for the four or so 'gaunts I decided to give tentacles, but getting it to work on my warrior was getting very frustrating, so I'm leaving the tentacles out to dry overnight and see if they'll be alright to attach in the morning. I do need to pick up wax paper and a small mirror to work with my green stuff. I was also having a bit of trouble getting a bit of the green stuff to hold a curve for a beak, and I don't know how to fix that
Lord_Asmodeus on
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
There’s probably some reason it’s a bad idea, but I’ve been using Vallejo water effects instead of greenstuff for adding details to models. It applies like a thick gel and hardens overnight. Thin tentacles won’t work but it does spikes, spines, fur, and of course liquid stuff like slime, gore, and blood splatters.
Okay so, here is my first attempt at adding greenstuff tentacles to a hormagaunt, I'll be doing more while I have this green stuff made up (tried not to use much but I don't want to waste it) but if you can see anywhere I can obviously do a bit better I'd love the advice. I would also like to know, is there a way to make sure the green stuff doesn't move after applying it? With light thin stuff like face tentacles it seems to sort of droop a little bit if I leave it.
If its small stuff like this, you can form the tentacles around the wire of a twist-tie. If it's more substantial like a limb, then use paper clips. Might as well get in good full scale sculpting habits.
Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
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Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
Purple
So I finished up the finnicky Tentacle Warrior I was working on, didn't turn out 100% the way I wanted, but I'd like some final green stuff advice (for this dude at least) should I put in a little bit of green stuff to fill in the cracks between the tentacles, or does this look alright on its own?
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
Man, it sucks when you get an airbrush booth, clean off a buried desk, clean the airbrush, and in the process of cleaning the airbrush you break the thread on the needle nozzle...
Also I'd suggest blending the tentacles into the face, but it looks passable the way it is.
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Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
A different, worse colour
I posted this in the 40K thread as well, but if any y'all can give me a hand, I'd appreciate it.
I bought this MDF kit at Adepticon a couple of years ago, and it lived in my closest of shame until Kill Team inspired me to get cracking with cool terrain.
The problem is, it came with no instructions, no logos, no url, nothing to identify the original maker, so I can't ask them about this:
As far as I know, there is no 'on/off' button for this.
When you plug it the battery, it powers up and starts playing the files on the SD card. It has five buttons - play/pause, vol-up, vol-down, next file, previous file, no combination of which or holding down will make it power down. The easiest solution seems to be add a little rocker switch or toggle to the battery line so I can turn it on/off from there.
However, I've never done that type of wiring before, and the variety of switches with connectors available on Amazon doesn't help. Has anyone done this type of work before and knows what I should be looking for?
I posted this in the 40K thread as well, but if any y'all can give me a hand, I'd appreciate it.
I bought this MDF kit at Adepticon a couple of years ago, and it lived in my closest of shame until Kill Team inspired me to get cracking with cool terrain.
The problem is, it came with no instructions, no logos, no url, nothing to identify the original maker, so I can't ask them about this:
As far as I know, there is no 'on/off' button for this.
When you plug it the battery, it powers up and starts playing the files on the SD card. It has five buttons - play/pause, vol-up, vol-down, next file, previous file, no combination of which or holding down will make it power down. The easiest solution seems to be add a little rocker switch or toggle to the battery line so I can turn it on/off from there.
However, I've never done that type of wiring before, and the variety of switches with connectors available on Amazon doesn't help. Has anyone done this type of work before and knows what I should be looking for?
Found your kit, or most of it on PoweredPlay gaming's website. And from my complete lack of knowledge of electronics, I think you'd just splice in a switch to the positive wire of the battery? Doing some research on the kit atm tho.
I posted this in the 40K thread as well, but if any y'all can give me a hand, I'd appreciate it.
I bought this MDF kit at Adepticon a couple of years ago, and it lived in my closest of shame until Kill Team inspired me to get cracking with cool terrain.
The problem is, it came with no instructions, no logos, no url, nothing to identify the original maker, so I can't ask them about this:
As far as I know, there is no 'on/off' button for this.
When you plug it the battery, it powers up and starts playing the files on the SD card. It has five buttons - play/pause, vol-up, vol-down, next file, previous file, no combination of which or holding down will make it power down. The easiest solution seems to be add a little rocker switch or toggle to the battery line so I can turn it on/off from there.
However, I've never done that type of wiring before, and the variety of switches with connectors available on Amazon doesn't help. Has anyone done this type of work before and knows what I should be looking for?
Found your kit, or most of it on PoweredPlay gaming's website. And from my complete lack of knowledge of electronics, I think you'd just splice in a switch to the positive wire of the battery? Doing some research on the kit atm tho.
Whoops double post I can't delete.
Man their website is some amateur hour stuff. Lots of website creation tutorial msgs left in on product descriptions. No navigation/sorting on the shop. Seem to have some videos on youtube though.
bobAkirafett on
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Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
A different, worse colour
That explains it - I'd never considered that the guy selling them had made the laser-cut MDF bit himself, but purchased the LCD kit separately. I'd done all my searching trying to find that in combination with MDF.
And I suppose there's no reason I _couldn't_ just use a basic two prong switch... it just feels like such a primitive solution. Figures I'd get to work on this on a holiday, so I can't ask anyone at the RC car store tomorrow. :razz:
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
edited September 2018
Purple
Electrical engineer here! Looking at the kit, it's only a 3.7 volt battery, and the leads are sufficiently generous. A quick and dirty solution, as suggested, would be to splice in a low-power single-pole, single-throw switch into the red wire. Honestly, just about any switch that can do ON-OFF behavior will be fine, so it's just a matter of finding one that's not over-large and has terminals or wire leads you can splice onto.
I find in situations like this, the primitive solution is the least annoying one. For me, the more annoying thing would be finding a switch. I did a quick search on Amazon, and their selection is butts. Digikey is a major part vendor, but they have too much selection so finding the one thing that you'd like is a pain. If you live in an area where there's still an old-school Radioshack or the like, I'd try there first; a lot of them still have their component part drawers (thank you, hobbyist Makers, for keeping the dream alive) and should have a selection of switches to work from.
Nips on
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Also any place that supports the scale railroad hobby will probably have switches available, for custom layouts with electrically operated points.
You might also want to consider finding a matching plug/socket for the battery wire so you can create a switch section rather than cutting the existing wires.
Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
Purple
Does anyone make stencils for use on 40k size minis?
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Purple
What do you mean by "stencil" in this case?
I've got a few from Fallout Hobbies for doing model kits, but 40k players are the intended market. Coincidentally they're also the first Google search result for "40k stencils". :P
Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
Purple
That's actually pretty much exactly what I was looking for, I guess my mistake was just looking for miniature stencils generally. Specifically the rose stuff is exactly what I wanted, it seemed sized for vehicles but it should work fine.
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
What do you mean by "stencil" in this case?
I've got a few from Fallout Hobbies for doing model kits, but 40k players are the intended market. Coincidentally they're also the first Google search result for "40k stencils". :P
green stuff first then paint, if you do it the other way around all the greenstuff has to hold on to is paint. which means a solid knock and your greenstuffed detail is going to fall off and take a chunk of the paint off the model with it.
I done goofed with that a few weeks ago. I had meant to add green stuff to a model I was working on and completely forgot and ended up priming it.
If you're mashibg green stuff into recess like you would be there, Just green stuff it now and paint on some primer and then basecoat onto greenstuff. I do it all the time.
Greenstuff clings to gaps its filled into (via pressure) more than anything else. I dont really use it to adhere to surfaces, painted or otherwise.
green stuff first then paint, if you do it the other way around all the greenstuff has to hold on to is paint. which means a solid knock and your greenstuffed detail is going to fall off and take a chunk of the paint off the model with it.
I done goofed with that a few weeks ago. I had meant to add green stuff to a model I was working on and completely forgot and ended up priming it.
If you're mashibg green stuff into recess like you would be there, Just green stuff it now and paint on some primer and then basecoat onto greenstuff. I do it all the time.
Greenstuff clings to gaps its filled into (via pressure) more than anything else. I dont really use it to adhere to surfaces, painted or otherwise.
Ah, alright. I will go ahead and do that. I had actually stopped with the model because I didn't want to deal with those gaps right now. They were bumming me out. This is the custom Rune Priest in Terminator armor that I started years ago. I also have a Wolf Lord in Terminator armor. Both have my blood on them because I sliced open my thumb while cutting some thick plastic up.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
Electrical engineer here! Looking at the kit, it's only a 3.7 volt battery, and the leads are sufficiently generous. A quick and dirty solution, as suggested, would be to splice in a low-power single-pole, single-throw switch into the red wire. Honestly, just about any switch that can do ON-OFF behavior will be fine, so it's just a matter of finding one that's not over-large and has terminals or wire leads you can splice onto.
I find in situations like this, the primitive solution is the least annoying one. For me, the more annoying thing would be finding a switch. I did a quick search on Amazon, and their selection is butts. Digikey is a major part vendor, but they have too much selection so finding the one thing that you'd like is a pain. If you live in an area where there's still an old-school Radioshack or the like, I'd try there first; a lot of them still have their component part drawers (thank you, hobbyist Makers, for keeping the dream alive) and should have a selection of switches to work from.
That was what I expected, but I have this Thing where when I do anything for the first time, no matter how much I know how it should work, I' m overwhelmed with 'but what if you're doing it wrong!!!!' Until I can get confirmation that it's right.
The local Hobbytown USA had a Radio Shack parts section that had a simple toggle' so I'll go with that.
*edit*
And I just heard back from PoweredPlay Gaming (what, not immediately answering queries submitted at the start of a long holiday weekend? I am shocked, SHOCKED! by such shoddy customer service!). I have invested entire dollars and TENS of minutes coming up with my own solutions! :biggrin:
Anyway, it turns out that that odd little circuit board on its own long lead that I couldn't figure out what to do with? It's a magnetic proximity switch. That explains how I was able to seemingly get it into standby once with no idea how - I must have plonked it with the speaker, and the magnet in there tripped it.
Gabriel_Pitt on
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
That was what I expected, but I have this Thing where when I do anything for the first time, no matter how much I know how it should work, I' m overwhelmed with 'but what if you're doing it wrong!!!!' Until I can get confirmation that it's right.
Man, that's practically my Life's Motto. I get where you're coming from.
The local Hobbytown USA had a Radio Shack parts section that had a simple toggle' so I'll go with that.
*edit*
And I just heard back from PoweredPlay Gaming (what, not immediately answering queries submitted at the start of a long holiday weekend? I am shocked, SHOCKED! by such shoddy customer service!). I have invested entire dollars and TENS of minutes coming up with my own solutions! :biggrin:
Anyway, it turns out that that odd little circuit board on its own long lead that I couldn't figure out what to do with? It's a magnetic proximity switch. That explains how I was able to seemingly get it into standby once with no idea how - I must have plonked it with the speaker, and the magnet in there tripped it.
Awesome! I would have been surprised, given the volume of I/O leads and parts on that circuit board, that the whole assembly didn't have some sort of power control. Glad to hear you got a response back!
Were there ever any decent Alien franchise toy playsets? I vaguely remember having some as a child with alien queens and REAL OOZE ACTION, but I dunno if nostalgia is blinding me to how well they hold up. Thinking of trawling flea markets for some playsets to repaint and use as terrain.
FC: 1435-5383-0883
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Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
A different, worse colour
I remember the action figures being dusted off and resold, 'And me, Sergeant Apone, leading the way!' when Alien 3 came out. I don't remember playsets specifically, but if there are any, I don't imagine they'd make very good warhammer terrain.
Posts
It can be real easy to think of painting of a chore that has to be done when your painting an army. The best thing I ever did with my painting is deciding to treat it like a seperate hobby. Now I paint to improve myself and because I enjoy it a lot more I paint much more frequently than I ever did.
The knock on effect is that my army is always completely painted because I get through so many more models than I ever did before.
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
I done goofed with that a few weeks ago. I had meant to add green stuff to a model I was working on and completely forgot and ended up priming it.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
If its small stuff like this, you can form the tentacles around the wire of a twist-tie. If it's more substantial like a limb, then use paper clips. Might as well get in good full scale sculpting habits.
Think I'm gonna try it on 'nids.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Remember to drill your barrels, folks!
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Also I'd suggest blending the tentacles into the face, but it looks passable the way it is.
I bought this MDF kit at Adepticon a couple of years ago, and it lived in my closest of shame until Kill Team inspired me to get cracking with cool terrain.
The problem is, it came with no instructions, no logos, no url, nothing to identify the original maker, so I can't ask them about this:
As far as I know, there is no 'on/off' button for this.
https://i.imgur.com/XBNHHzt.jpg
When you plug it the battery, it powers up and starts playing the files on the SD card. It has five buttons - play/pause, vol-up, vol-down, next file, previous file, no combination of which or holding down will make it power down. The easiest solution seems to be add a little rocker switch or toggle to the battery line so I can turn it on/off from there.
However, I've never done that type of wiring before, and the variety of switches with connectors available on Amazon doesn't help. Has anyone done this type of work before and knows what I should be looking for?
Found your kit, or most of it on PoweredPlay gaming's website. And from my complete lack of knowledge of electronics, I think you'd just splice in a switch to the positive wire of the battery? Doing some research on the kit atm tho.
Man their website is some amateur hour stuff. Lots of website creation tutorial msgs left in on product descriptions. No navigation/sorting on the shop. Seem to have some videos on youtube though.
And I suppose there's no reason I _couldn't_ just use a basic two prong switch... it just feels like such a primitive solution. Figures I'd get to work on this on a holiday, so I can't ask anyone at the RC car store tomorrow. :razz:
I find in situations like this, the primitive solution is the least annoying one. For me, the more annoying thing would be finding a switch. I did a quick search on Amazon, and their selection is butts. Digikey is a major part vendor, but they have too much selection so finding the one thing that you'd like is a pain. If you live in an area where there's still an old-school Radioshack or the like, I'd try there first; a lot of them still have their component part drawers (thank you, hobbyist Makers, for keeping the dream alive) and should have a selection of switches to work from.
You might also want to consider finding a matching plug/socket for the battery wire so you can create a switch section rather than cutting the existing wires.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
I've got a few from Fallout Hobbies for doing model kits, but 40k players are the intended market. Coincidentally they're also the first Google search result for "40k stencils". :P
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Oh man... That skin membrane stencil!
I neeeed that
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Finally made some time to paint tonight though, and while workmanlike, it was nice to sit back down and get paint on plastic again.
Knocked off a ton of naggaroth night purple carapace on my genestealers and spore mines.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Might I recommend frisket film? With a bit of patience you can make your own stencils.
It's readily available on eBay, Amazon etc.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
The newest member of the trio
If you're mashibg green stuff into recess like you would be there, Just green stuff it now and paint on some primer and then basecoat onto greenstuff. I do it all the time.
Greenstuff clings to gaps its filled into (via pressure) more than anything else. I dont really use it to adhere to surfaces, painted or otherwise.
Finished a crater full of slime and skulls. Tried a drop of Nurgle slime and it drifted around the edges.
Assorted shipping containers. Found a nice dark flock that looks like mud when it’s sealed. Still plenty to do on them.
Jungle plants with modular bases.
A spooky glowing eye to be inserted in a shipping container or maybe a slime pit later.
Ah, alright. I will go ahead and do that. I had actually stopped with the model because I didn't want to deal with those gaps right now. They were bumming me out. This is the custom Rune Priest in Terminator armor that I started years ago. I also have a Wolf Lord in Terminator armor. Both have my blood on them because I sliced open my thumb while cutting some thick plastic up.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
That was what I expected, but I have this Thing where when I do anything for the first time, no matter how much I know how it should work, I' m overwhelmed with 'but what if you're doing it wrong!!!!' Until I can get confirmation that it's right.
The local Hobbytown USA had a Radio Shack parts section that had a simple toggle' so I'll go with that.
*edit*
And I just heard back from PoweredPlay Gaming (what, not immediately answering queries submitted at the start of a long holiday weekend? I am shocked, SHOCKED! by such shoddy customer service!). I have invested entire dollars and TENS of minutes coming up with my own solutions! :biggrin:
Anyway, it turns out that that odd little circuit board on its own long lead that I couldn't figure out what to do with? It's a magnetic proximity switch. That explains how I was able to seemingly get it into standby once with no idea how - I must have plonked it with the speaker, and the magnet in there tripped it.
Man, that's practically my Life's Motto. I get where you're coming from.
Awesome! I would have been surprised, given the volume of I/O leads and parts on that circuit board, that the whole assembly didn't have some sort of power control. Glad to hear you got a response back!
Makes the horns look more organic gold than armor
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6