The very real next standard is going to be 4K60 with really granular HDR local dimming. Right now we're in the middle of another LED/PLASMA/720/1080/BLURAY/HD-DVD clusterfuck where all these competing standards and tech are fighting it out. I don't think 8k becomes the norm in this, but I can definitely see 4k doing so.
I'd say in another few years the HDR local dimming matrix will be small enough and have good enough response that it will be worth getting, and in the next 5 it'll be a defacto standard.
OLEDs are taking over from backlit LED panels, "local dimming" won't mean a damned thing anymore because every single pixel is its own backlight.
OLEDS still need to solve the burn-in issue. They are fine in mobile devices where the screen isn't expected to be on for more than a few minutes at a time. In large format displays like monitors and TVs you run a serious risk of burn-in of static screen elements. I saw an OLED TV that was set playing news 24/7 and after a while a distinct burn-in pattern could be seen.
My OLED TV is fine after a year and I play a lot of games on it with static huds and such. Just don't leave it on when you're not using it and run the screen wipe program on the TV every so often. It definitely can burn in like an old plasma, but it's super easy to avoid if you aren't using your TV 24/7.
That_Guy how does it sync the color changing, that's awesome!
My fans came with and RGB controller hub. I wired the fans up from back to front in slots 1-6 on the hub. That is one of the dozen or so patterns it has.
Ok, that's kinda cool. Not a huge fan of RGB, but having healthbars off the bottom of my screen is neato.
Edit: OK. I think I've finally got it narrowed down.
The LG 27GL850 is coming, and apparently is some sorta fancy "Nano-IPS" which is supposed to be pretty hot stuff. It's still not available, but apparently went up briefly for preorder for $500. Doesn't support HDR, but it hits all the other sweet spots. (It says GSinc, but it supports FreeSync.)
Edit: Apparently the 27GL850 came out, sold out, and we're now just waiting on the next batch?
The MSI Optix MAG271CQR has RGB, but nobody's perfect. It's a 27" VA, 1440p@144 and the standard feature set -- usb hub, that fancy "get rid of blue light" trick everyone loves, etc.
There's one last option: The Samsung C27HG70 (C27HG70QQN). Apparently this is the same VA panel as the MSI MAG271, except that it supports something called HDR (which apparently is nifty) and has "quantum dots" which apparently are neato. But it's $120 more than the MSI option.
There's like two dozen threads on reddit comparing the MSI and Samsung, heh.
Me too. I don't have any of the settings dialed in yet and it's possible the CPU score is weighted more for single core. IDK, I'll have to do some more tweaking to see if I can get those numbers up.
The very real next standard is going to be 4K60 with really granular HDR local dimming. Right now we're in the middle of another LED/PLASMA/720/1080/BLURAY/HD-DVD clusterfuck where all these competing standards and tech are fighting it out. I don't think 8k becomes the norm in this, but I can definitely see 4k doing so.
I'd say in another few years the HDR local dimming matrix will be small enough and have good enough response that it will be worth getting, and in the next 5 it'll be a defacto standard.
OLEDs are taking over from backlit LED panels, "local dimming" won't mean a damned thing anymore because every single pixel is its own backlight.
OLEDS still need to solve the burn-in issue. They are fine in mobile devices where the screen isn't expected to be on for more than a few minutes at a time. In large format displays like monitors and TVs you run a serious risk of burn-in of static screen elements. I saw an OLED TV that was set playing news 24/7 and after a while a distinct burn-in pattern could be seen.
The test that image is from was linked in this very thread earlier. That image is from the panel that's been playing CNN at maximum brightness for something like 9000 hours.
Me too. I don't have any of the settings dialed in yet and it's possible the CPU score is weighted more for single core. IDK, I'll have to do some more tweaking to see if I can get those numbers up.
Which 2080 Super from EVGA did you get?
My baseline benchmark numbers were for 3900x and EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER XC ULTRA GAMING
TimeSpy 11687 (11885 Graphics/ 10679 CPU) https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/38049628?
So almost exactly same score but my CPU is higher and your Graphics is higher.
I should run some more 3dMark benchmarks to see how max tuning my memory speeds affected things before I work on tweaking my 2080 Super's performance.
The very real next standard is going to be 4K60 with really granular HDR local dimming. Right now we're in the middle of another LED/PLASMA/720/1080/BLURAY/HD-DVD clusterfuck where all these competing standards and tech are fighting it out. I don't think 8k becomes the norm in this, but I can definitely see 4k doing so.
I'd say in another few years the HDR local dimming matrix will be small enough and have good enough response that it will be worth getting, and in the next 5 it'll be a defacto standard.
OLEDs are taking over from backlit LED panels, "local dimming" won't mean a damned thing anymore because every single pixel is its own backlight.
OLEDS still need to solve the burn-in issue. They are fine in mobile devices where the screen isn't expected to be on for more than a few minutes at a time. In large format displays like monitors and TVs you run a serious risk of burn-in of static screen elements. I saw an OLED TV that was set playing news 24/7 and after a while a distinct burn-in pattern could be seen.
The test that image is from was linked in this very thread earlier. That image is from the panel that's been playing CNN at maximum brightness for something like 9000 hours.
Yeah, but you'll start getting UI burn in faster than that. Especially the Windows start button, which is bright white.
I don't want a screen I have to be careful/delicate with, I just want one that works without me having to think about it past initial setup. Once OLED gets to that point, I will welcome those gorgeous blacks and amazing contrast with open arms. Until then, I'm not paying over a thousand for a piece of tech I have to babysit.
Can anyone recommend a decent budget external DVD drive? Primary usage would be backing up movies that I own. Don't really have the space to do an internal drive.
Though I have my old drive still can I just get an e-sata cable and plug that in without an enclosure?
0
Options
That_GuyI don't wanna be that guyRegistered Userregular
Me too. I don't have any of the settings dialed in yet and it's possible the CPU score is weighted more for single core. IDK, I'll have to do some more tweaking to see if I can get those numbers up.
Which 2080 Super from EVGA did you get?
My baseline benchmark numbers were for 3900x and EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER XC ULTRA GAMING
TimeSpy 11687 (11885 Graphics/ 10679 CPU) https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/38049628?
So almost exactly same score but my CPU is higher and your Graphics is higher.
I should run some more 3dMark benchmarks to see how max tuning my memory speeds affected things before I work on tweaking my 2080 Super's performance.
It's the liquid cooled EVGA card. I let it do an automatic overclocking pass before running the tests witch brought the base clock up toe ~2050mhz. What RAM are you running?
Can anyone recommend a decent budget external DVD drive? Primary usage would be backing up movies that I own. Don't really have the space to do an internal drive.
Though I have my old drive still can I just get an e-sata cable and plug that in without an enclosure?
I wonder how far the monitor makers will push resolution, will it actually be beyond what 99% of the population can resolve with their eyes? Will there be an arms race for bionic eyes and higher resolution displays? The mind boggles.
I just want an ultra widescreen 1440p display. That would make me happy.
when you hit the limit of eyesight, you make the monitors bigger, suddenly that resolution increase matters again
0
Options
OrcaAlso known as EspressosaurusWrexRegistered Userregular
Limits in eyesight resolution haven’t stopped cellphone makers
I'm really kinda leaning towards LG's new NanoIPS thing. It's probably marketing bullshit, but, I hear it's shiny and faboo, and it's brand new as of Summer 2019. And who knows, I might even be able to mount it in my vertical mount.
Apparently my current monitors are TN panels. From 2011. So basically it boils down to do I want VA (the MSI or Samsung ones I mentioned above), or IPS (LG).
... do I really want to spend $900 upgrading my GPU and Monitor?
I have an IPS panel from 2005 and it still doesnt have burn in and its a monitor I used as a primary monitor for about 7 years and then as a secondary monitor until about last month. Only reason I stopped using it is because I dont have the desk space for a 3rd monitor.
That burn in might be an issue with that persons monitor or maybe an issue with the NanoIPS LG is using.
This ventures into home networking stuff, but any of my canadian peers have recommendations on where to get bulk cat6 cable? I want to add some more to my house. Not sure if Home Depot is best or if I should be ordering from somewhere else.
This ventures into home networking stuff, but any of my canadian peers have recommendations on where to get bulk cat6 cable? I want to add some more to my house. Not sure if Home Depot is best or if I should be ordering from somewhere else.
Also any recommendations on crimpers?
I’m not in Canada, but I went with a 500 ft roll from mono price. Seemed reasonably priced and I always have good luck with mono price cables.
I read in a few places that if you really want the 10 GBs it might be worth investing in a cable checker. Supposedly the connections can affect the performance if done poorly. Personally I didn’t care since I don’t think any of my devices could top 1 GBs anyway.
"The world is a mess, and I just need to rule it" - Dr Horrible
This ventures into home networking stuff, but any of my canadian peers have recommendations on where to get bulk cat6 cable? I want to add some more to my house. Not sure if Home Depot is best or if I should be ordering from somewhere else.
Also any recommendations on crimpers?
I’m not in Canada, but I went with a 500 ft roll from mono price. Seemed reasonably priced and I always have good luck with mono price cables.
I read in a few places that if you really want the 10 GBs it might be worth investing in a cable checker. Supposedly the connections can affect the performance if done poorly. Personally I didn’t care since I don’t think any of my devices could top 1 GBs anyway.
Yea I'm not concerned about 10Gbps. I'm really only doing the cat6 because I don't want to regret what cable I ran in a few years.
BlazeFire on
+1
Options
jungleroomxIt's never too many graves, it's always not enough shovelsRegistered Userregular
Limits in eyesight resolution haven’t stopped cellphone makers
I mean
We've had 1440p and 4k cell phone screens for 5 years and 4k barely has made a dent.
0
Options
OrcaAlso known as EspressosaurusWrexRegistered Userregular
edited August 2019
The Galaxy S8 is 2960 x 1440, which is fucking ludicrous on a cellphone. The iPhone XR is a still pretty silly 1792 x 828. 1920x1080 is just fine on a 24" diagonal monitor. You mean to tell me you can tell the difference on something with a 6.1" diagonal?
edit: and reviewers are calling that "low for modern cellphones."
This ventures into home networking stuff, but any of my canadian peers have recommendations on where to get bulk cat6 cable? I want to add some more to my house. Not sure if Home Depot is best or if I should be ordering from somewhere else.
Also any recommendations on crimpers?
I’m not in Canada, but I went with a 500 ft roll from mono price. Seemed reasonably priced and I always have good luck with mono price cables.
I read in a few places that if you really want the 10 GBs it might be worth investing in a cable checker. Supposedly the connections can affect the performance if done poorly. Personally I didn’t care since I don’t think any of my devices could top 1 GBs anyway.
Yea I'm not concerned about 10Gbps. I'm really only doing the cat6 because I don't want to regret what cable I ran in a few years.
You can get a crimper/connector kit from Amazon that will work fine.
Cable quality is pretty much the same depending where you buy the reel.
Welp, that was disappointing. Have to put my rebuild on hold because I can't for the life of me find my spare cables for my modular PSU, and the new mobo requires a second 4-pin CPU connection.
So phooey. I either buy a new PSU or go shopping for a new set of modular cables.
Welp, that was disappointing. Have to put my rebuild on hold because I can't for the life of me find my spare cables for my modular PSU, and the new mobo requires a second 4-pin CPU connection.
So phooey. I either buy a new PSU or go shopping for a new set of modular cables.
Welp, that was disappointing. Have to put my rebuild on hold because I can't for the life of me find my spare cables for my modular PSU, and the new mobo requires a second 4-pin CPU connection.
So phooey. I either buy a new PSU or go shopping for a new set of modular cables.
The manufacturer doesnt sell the cables?
Only in complete sets as near as I can tell (evga).
(edit: maybe I don't actually need the extra 4-pin connector. The 8-pin alone may suffice. Time to test this perhaps.)
Welp, that was disappointing. Have to put my rebuild on hold because I can't for the life of me find my spare cables for my modular PSU, and the new mobo requires a second 4-pin CPU connection.
So phooey. I either buy a new PSU or go shopping for a new set of modular cables.
The manufacturer doesnt sell the cables?
Only in complete sets as near as I can tell (evga).
(edit: maybe I don't actually need the extra 4-pin connector. The 8-pin alone may suffice. Time to test this perhaps.)
Which cable is it - the cpu cable on mobo should just be an 8-pin, some psus have it as 2 4-pin but shouldn't matter.
OrcaAlso known as EspressosaurusWrexRegistered Userregular
Well poop, Asus AI overclock's attempts to bring this sucker to a 5 GHz all core overclock resulted in an unstable system. I'll have to be happy with a mediocre 4.9 GHz all core overclock.
Posts
https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/38586045?
My OLED TV is fine after a year and I play a lot of games on it with static huds and such. Just don't leave it on when you're not using it and run the screen wipe program on the TV every so often. It definitely can burn in like an old plasma, but it's super easy to avoid if you aren't using your TV 24/7.
The 27 is actually more expensive than the 32. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QZ4P5KB/
Samsung has one too for 27... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R82333S/
AOC (?) has a 32" for around the same price. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HKM16DT/
It blows my mind that the bigger Acer is cheaper.
I'm hearing 1440s on 32" are a bit iffy because of the pixel density? I don't notice it on my 1080p Vizio, though, so...
Time Spy
Fire Strike Extreme
Beats the shit out of my old 3570!
My fans came with and RGB controller hub. I wired the fans up from back to front in slots 1-6 on the hub. That is one of the dozen or so patterns it has.
Ok, that's kinda cool. Not a huge fan of RGB, but having healthbars off the bottom of my screen is neato.
Edit: OK. I think I've finally got it narrowed down.
The LG 27GL850 is coming, and apparently is some sorta fancy "Nano-IPS" which is supposed to be pretty hot stuff. It's still not available, but apparently went up briefly for preorder for $500. Doesn't support HDR, but it hits all the other sweet spots. (It says GSinc, but it supports FreeSync.)
Edit: Apparently the 27GL850 came out, sold out, and we're now just waiting on the next batch?
LTT loves it.
The MSI Optix MAG271CQR has RGB, but nobody's perfect. It's a 27" VA, 1440p@144 and the standard feature set -- usb hub, that fancy "get rid of blue light" trick everyone loves, etc.
There's one last option: The Samsung C27HG70 (C27HG70QQN). Apparently this is the same VA panel as the MSI MAG271, except that it supports something called HDR (which apparently is nifty) and has "quantum dots" which apparently are neato. But it's $120 more than the MSI option.
There's like two dozen threads on reddit comparing the MSI and Samsung, heh.
Edit: Hey, MSI has a 100Hz Ultrawide too in that general price range: https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Non-Glare-UltraWide-21-Resolution/dp/B07G5FCR6X
I'm a little surprised at my processor score compared to yours.
https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/38597840
Me too. I don't have any of the settings dialed in yet and it's possible the CPU score is weighted more for single core. IDK, I'll have to do some more tweaking to see if I can get those numbers up.
The test that image is from was linked in this very thread earlier. That image is from the panel that's been playing CNN at maximum brightness for something like 9000 hours.
Which 2080 Super from EVGA did you get?
My baseline benchmark numbers were for 3900x and EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER XC ULTRA GAMING
TimeSpy 11687 (11885 Graphics/ 10679 CPU)
https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/38049628?
So almost exactly same score but my CPU is higher and your Graphics is higher.
I should run some more 3dMark benchmarks to see how max tuning my memory speeds affected things before I work on tweaking my 2080 Super's performance.
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
They also had some of the mitigation functions disabled. The burn-in isn’t bad at all if you read the article.
Yeah, but you'll start getting UI burn in faster than that. Especially the Windows start button, which is bright white.
I don't want a screen I have to be careful/delicate with, I just want one that works without me having to think about it past initial setup. Once OLED gets to that point, I will welcome those gorgeous blacks and amazing contrast with open arms. Until then, I'm not paying over a thousand for a piece of tech I have to babysit.
Though I have my old drive still can I just get an e-sata cable and plug that in without an enclosure?
It's the liquid cooled EVGA card. I let it do an automatic overclocking pass before running the tests witch brought the base clock up toe ~2050mhz. What RAM are you running?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C2AMKR2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought this one a couple of years ago and it works great.
EDIT: Looks like the black version is $4 cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011M8YACM/
Been on something of a purple kick lately.
Primary monitor on the right? Madness.
when you hit the limit of eyesight, you make the monitors bigger, suddenly that resolution increase matters again
8-)
Apparently my current monitors are TN panels. From 2011. So basically it boils down to do I want VA (the MSI or Samsung ones I mentioned above), or IPS (LG).
... do I really want to spend $900 upgrading my GPU and Monitor?
EDIT: ABORT ABORT ABORT
https://i.imgur.com/tdg2d3q.jpg
Apparently the 27GL850 line might have some problems with burn in.
Is burn in an issue with IPS? I don't even think Windows 10 has screen savers anymore. :P
That burn in might be an issue with that persons monitor or maybe an issue with the NanoIPS LG is using.
Also any recommendations on crimpers?
I’m not in Canada, but I went with a 500 ft roll from mono price. Seemed reasonably priced and I always have good luck with mono price cables.
I read in a few places that if you really want the 10 GBs it might be worth investing in a cable checker. Supposedly the connections can affect the performance if done poorly. Personally I didn’t care since I don’t think any of my devices could top 1 GBs anyway.
Yea I'm not concerned about 10Gbps. I'm really only doing the cat6 because I don't want to regret what cable I ran in a few years.
I mean
We've had 1440p and 4k cell phone screens for 5 years and 4k barely has made a dent.
edit: and reviewers are calling that "low for modern cellphones."
Fuck off, reviewers.
You can get a crimper/connector kit from Amazon that will work fine.
Cable quality is pretty much the same depending where you buy the reel.
So phooey. I either buy a new PSU or go shopping for a new set of modular cables.
The manufacturer doesnt sell the cables?
Only in complete sets as near as I can tell (evga).
(edit: maybe I don't actually need the extra 4-pin connector. The 8-pin alone may suffice. Time to test this perhaps.)
Which cable is it - the cpu cable on mobo should just be an 8-pin, some psus have it as 2 4-pin but shouldn't matter.