Jewelry people. Is there a good way to add silver to a copper piece? I have some copper for CNCing, and was going to make a pendant, but wanted to color some parts silver. wondering if there's a good way to do that, like maybe just coating the not milled out area in solder?
Well, solder in a well defined rut will work, but actual wire soldered in place sand down better. Depends on the thing.
Edit: how big an area will the silver cover, percentage wise?
Like, depending on the amount of silver area, it might be easier to just buy some silver sheet, cut pieces of each out and solder together
Jewelry people. Is there a good way to add silver to a copper piece? I have some copper for CNCing, and was going to make a pendant, but wanted to color some parts silver. wondering if there's a good way to do that, like maybe just coating the not milled out area in solder?
Well, solder in a well defined rut will work, but actual wire soldered in place sand down better. Depends on the thing.
Edit: how big an area will the silver cover, percentage wise?
Like, depending on the amount of silver area, it might be easier to just buy some silver sheet, cut pieces of each out and solder together
Actually think it might make more sense to do it in two pieces. My daughter saw a necklace that said I love you to the moon and back and it was a book my wife read to her when she was little, so she wanted to buy it and then waffled on the price. I suggested we could make it, if she wanted, and she seemed to like that idea.
Is there any felt or poker speed cloth or anything inside there? I would totally buy one.
I could certainly make it like that. As is, it fits 7 cards. Not sure I like the fully enclosed thing. I was thinking for the second version of just doing an elastic band/rubber band with thin sheets of wood.
Happy to make one for you though!
webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
edited October 2019
So this is the current wallet I use, the 2nd iteration of the design. The two biggest downsides are that the strap is secured by watch band pins, and they keep popping out when the wallet is at capacity, so far it's only happened in my pocket, which is lucky. Secondly the top card ends up getting beat to hell due to being exposed to keys, phone, or whatever else is in the pocket. The chips of my cards have consistently failed.
What I would love to see, is a wood design, with a cash groove like the aluminum wallet, but have two wooden faces and an elastic band that holds them tightly together with no cards, and then stretches out to hold 5-8 cards. maybe there is a groove on the outside of each face that the elastic band can seat in, maybe it's offset like the picture to help removal of the cards. I figure either just tension would hold the band in place or maybe some kind of epoxy, I dunno. I do like the thumb cut outs you have on your existing design.
I feel like making two identical faces held together by elastic/rubber would be an easier manufacture than making two halves and securing them with some kind of wood glue. The first iteration of the wallet below used rubber, and it worked just fine, quite possibly better than the elastic.
@webguy20 Did a quick design in CAD. Figure one strap in middle would provide best holding without making it too complicated to machine and also secure the bands.
This picture shows the outside of both faces. One has the channel for the strap (not certain on depth), and the other has little loop bits for the elastic strap to come up through the inside hole and that around the outside. Does that make sense at all?
This would be the inside. The one on the right has a channel for the elastic seam to go and be secured. I think it'd be best to sandwich it with a plate that I'd screw into place. Likely would put felt on that to sort of hide the seam from that holding plate.
The other side could get channels recessed out for a money area. Not sure how deep that'd need to be, or how practical if the elastic is fairly tight to hold the cards in place. Any thoughts or suggestions?
PSN: jfrofl
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
edited October 2019
That's similar to the first gen wallet I had. I certainly preferred the screwed down strap. I've put a picture below. As far as depth I think it's two quarters deep, so you can hold 4 quarters without them popping up at all.
I recently purchased a Bosch RA1181 router table which has an aluminum top. It's a little rough and grabbing the wood. Has anyone had any luck sanding something like this before? If so, what grit? Wet or dry? Power or hand? etc. Thanks!
I recently purchased a Bosch RA1181 router table which has an aluminum top. It's a little rough and grabbing the wood. Has anyone had any luck sanding something like this before? If so, what grit? Wet or dry? Power or hand? etc. Thanks!
I'm still not totally prepared to call this "done" but it's "presentable" at the moment.
The blade, tang, and pommel are made of my own mixture for aluminum bronze. The hilt is redheart wood. The other details are made from bronze and brass.
On the alloy
I alloyed a couple different metals and aluminum with copper to make this. I'm tentatively calling the alloy "Dwarven Gold" because I'm a dork, and I made, it so nyeh!
I put together the mixture, cast a few billets and forged the shape out from that. For the pommel I cast the shape directly.
This stuff is kinda nuts, I've left a billet of this stuff sitting alone on my desk for months with no change in color or visible oxidation. I made a nugget to fiddle with, and no visible dulling.
The aluminum in the alloy forms an aluminum oxide layer around the whole thing which makes it super resistant to corrosion. It also makes it a bit of a pain to work with.
Okay, so Copper, Brass, Iron or Steel you can just heat up to a cherry red when working with it. If you do that with bronze, it will crumble like you just hit a granola bar with a hammer. You have to keep it to a "black heat", which is honestly a phrase that you kinda have to see in person to understand, and let it cool. Anything beyond that and you start to compromise the whole thing.
The dwarven gold has the additional problem that you can't just weld it. The oxide layer is actually much stronger than the rest of the metal. In fact if you overheat it the metal on the inside becomes liquid before the oxide layer, and it kinda slumps like a bag full of jelly. This also applies to any cracks in the surface, which means you can't cheat the metal. If it cracks, you have to start over.
Beyond that it's actually great to work with. It etches incredibly well and is pretty strong and durable.
So my daughter saw a necklace she wanted to make for my wife at a craft show. We're working on that currently. She picked out fonts and helped with designing a bit.
Lettering is harder to see than I expected, and I think we may need to change the font. But first I wanted to dye the letters. Anyone have any idea how to do that? My main thought is like epoxy and a dye, but I'm sure there's easier/better ways.
PSN: jfrofl
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Caulk Bite 6One of the multitude of Dans infesting this placeRegistered Userregular
Sulphur blackening with a shiny surface finish would work well
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
The simple route? Just black spray paint, and sand off the surface finish.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
Made the other part of the necklace. Going to see if I know of anyone who has something to do the sulphur blackening with.
Pretty excited to see this getting closer!
PSN: jfrofl
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Caulk Bite 6One of the multitude of Dans infesting this placeRegistered Userregular
edited October 2019
I mean, an easy way to do it is leave it in a ziplock with a mashed up hard boiled egg.
Of course, there’s dedicated water soluble powders you can get that do the job quicker and don’t require directly wasting food, but for a one off it should be fine
knitdanIn ur baseKillin ur guysRegistered Userregular
They can be tricky. The good thing about the cobra knot though is since it’s wrapped around a core it has a little bit of leeway as far as stretchiness or scrunchiness.
“I was quick when I came in here, I’m twice as quick now”
-Indiana Solo, runner of blades
No worries. I'll see what I can do with the image you sent me a bit more. I have a thing tonight and a thing tomorrow night, so earliest might be Monday.
After messing around with the aluminium and copper I'm more confident on the stainless steel part now.
So I have to admit, seeing the earlier pictures of the guitar build, I was skeptical. It seemed rough and weird. That bridge is just gorgeous, though. It's really beautiful work. My skepticism is dispelled!
So I have to admit, seeing the earlier pictures of the guitar build, I was skeptical. It seemed rough and weird. That bridge is just gorgeous, though. It's really beautiful work. My skepticism is dispelled!
They definitely look rough and weird when they're not all assembled. Especially since I had parts finished and parts unfinished (usually the same piece of wood).
Today I'm hoping to start drilling out the control cavities, but I also have to roast a chicken and start making stock for gumbo tomorrow so who knows if I'll have time
edit: I drilled out the tone control cavity and 1/4 of the other cavity and my girlfriend pulled up!
Yeah, to anneal it you take it to a black heat (just before it would start to turn orange/red, it gets dark while still appearing to glow in the flame), allow it to cool for a few seconds and then quench it. If you overheat it, you can let it air cool back down on it's own without quenching and then redo the annealing stage, but if you overheat it and then hit it, it'll start to crumble.
My experience with bronze and the Dwarven Gold, and the amount of research I did on the internet, has led me to believe that you generally want to cold work bronzes. Also it's a metal that really rewards taking your time when working it and not trying to rush the process.
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Caulk Bite 6One of the multitude of Dans infesting this placeRegistered Userregular
@Dedwrekka are you willing to share your recipe for Dwarven Gold? Because I’m interested in trying it out on a smaller scale.
minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
Tonight was my first class at the woodshop studio -- I was teaching alongside the owner. It was pretty great! It was a lot of fun teaching folks how not to lose fingers on the spinny cutty things, and a few of them asked about signing up for more advanced classes because they had fun.
I should have my first solo class sometime in November. I'm super excited.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
Tonight was my first class at the woodshop studio -- I was teaching alongside the owner. It was pretty great! It was a lot of fun teaching folks how not to lose fingers on the spinny cutty things, and a few of them asked about signing up for more advanced classes because they had fun.
I should have my first solo class sometime in November. I'm super excited.
I'd love to take a class like this! Everything I know about woodworking has been through osmosis and personal experience and I'd rather know some things directly from people that know what the fuck they're doing.
Did a bunch of work on the makerspaces CNC. Also have a fall festival thing in the area that we're going to be making stuff for.
I think I've talked about this before, but did more work on that cherry slab. I got it for a group build type thing at the makerspace, so we can build a river table. I cut it down the middle and also cut the edges at 90 degrees so that it is roughly the dimensions the final dimensions will be. I need to mull over what to do for the legs. I may weld some legs again, but that's a way later problem.
I need to figure out which configuration I like the best on the pictures (2-4). Wouldn't mind thoughts/suggestions.
Radiation on
PSN: jfrofl
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lonelyahavaCall me Ahava ~~She/Her~~Move to New ZealandRegistered Userregular
I like 2 best for some reason. It seems much more aesthetic to me?
I like 2 best for some reason. It seems much more aesthetic to me?
2nd would be the 'standard'. I really like the sort of knot in the top right (before the bump out) and wanted to keep that shown which is why I made the 3rd one as sort of a compromise.
Also the outer edges should have less spots. I had sanded off most of the bark, but going to hand sand those darker spots more.
Edit:
I wonder if it'd be easish to make a setup where the top is flipable. I guess it depends on the legs I get.
Radiation on
PSN: jfrofl
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Caulk Bite 6One of the multitude of Dans infesting this placeRegistered Userregular
I mean like what the top is in that picture, but it’s on the bottom. Positions of slabs otherwise unchanged
Posts
Like, depending on the amount of silver area, it might be easier to just buy some silver sheet, cut pieces of each out and solder together
Actually think it might make more sense to do it in two pieces. My daughter saw a necklace that said I love you to the moon and back and it was a book my wife read to her when she was little, so she wanted to buy it and then waffled on the price. I suggested we could make it, if she wanted, and she seemed to like that idea.
I could certainly make it like that. As is, it fits 7 cards. Not sure I like the fully enclosed thing. I was thinking for the second version of just doing an elastic band/rubber band with thin sheets of wood.
Happy to make one for you though!
I was looking at using these: https://www.amazon.com/Ranger-Bands-Large-20-Count/dp/B07DKRP2GY/ref=sr_1_53?keywords=rubber+bands+black&pd_rd_r=dcc957c2-9ba0-42a2-855f-79f0933fe294&pd_rd_w=791i8&pd_rd_wg=13bB0&pf_rd_p=7be70e42-b5c0-4077-873a-35a472a6fbd4&pf_rd_r=TBCP65T01J23ZYRNXG48&qid=1570575743&sr=8-53&th=1
But not sure I like the idea of the rubber. Think that might look too....cheap?
But I have no idea what I'm doing with elastic, and couldn't find any pre sized bands.
What I would love to see, is a wood design, with a cash groove like the aluminum wallet, but have two wooden faces and an elastic band that holds them tightly together with no cards, and then stretches out to hold 5-8 cards. maybe there is a groove on the outside of each face that the elastic band can seat in, maybe it's offset like the picture to help removal of the cards. I figure either just tension would hold the band in place or maybe some kind of epoxy, I dunno. I do like the thumb cut outs you have on your existing design.
I feel like making two identical faces held together by elastic/rubber would be an easier manufacture than making two halves and securing them with some kind of wood glue. The first iteration of the wallet below used rubber, and it worked just fine, quite possibly better than the elastic.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
I'm in love.
Democrats Abroad! || Vote From Abroad
Looks great! Well done. That pattern and color combination are perfect.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
This picture shows the outside of both faces. One has the channel for the strap (not certain on depth), and the other has little loop bits for the elastic strap to come up through the inside hole and that around the outside. Does that make sense at all?
This would be the inside. The one on the right has a channel for the elastic seam to go and be secured. I think it'd be best to sandwich it with a plate that I'd screw into place. Likely would put felt on that to sort of hide the seam from that holding plate.
The other side could get channels recessed out for a money area. Not sure how deep that'd need to be, or how practical if the elastic is fairly tight to hold the cards in place. Any thoughts or suggestions?
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
I recently purchased a Bosch RA1181 router table which has an aluminum top. It's a little rough and grabbing the wood. Has anyone had any luck sanding something like this before? If so, what grit? Wet or dry? Power or hand? etc. Thanks!
Get some pastewax
I'm still not totally prepared to call this "done" but it's "presentable" at the moment.
The blade, tang, and pommel are made of my own mixture for aluminum bronze. The hilt is redheart wood. The other details are made from bronze and brass.
On the alloy
I put together the mixture, cast a few billets and forged the shape out from that. For the pommel I cast the shape directly.
This stuff is kinda nuts, I've left a billet of this stuff sitting alone on my desk for months with no change in color or visible oxidation. I made a nugget to fiddle with, and no visible dulling.
The aluminum in the alloy forms an aluminum oxide layer around the whole thing which makes it super resistant to corrosion. It also makes it a bit of a pain to work with.
Okay, so Copper, Brass, Iron or Steel you can just heat up to a cherry red when working with it. If you do that with bronze, it will crumble like you just hit a granola bar with a hammer. You have to keep it to a "black heat", which is honestly a phrase that you kinda have to see in person to understand, and let it cool. Anything beyond that and you start to compromise the whole thing.
The dwarven gold has the additional problem that you can't just weld it. The oxide layer is actually much stronger than the rest of the metal. In fact if you overheat it the metal on the inside becomes liquid before the oxide layer, and it kinda slumps like a bag full of jelly. This also applies to any cracks in the surface, which means you can't cheat the metal. If it cracks, you have to start over.
Beyond that it's actually great to work with. It etches incredibly well and is pretty strong and durable.
Lettering is harder to see than I expected, and I think we may need to change the font. But first I wanted to dye the letters. Anyone have any idea how to do that? My main thought is like epoxy and a dye, but I'm sure there's easier/better ways.
Pretty excited to see this getting closer!
Of course, there’s dedicated water soluble powders you can get that do the job quicker and don’t require directly wasting food, but for a one off it should be fine
Edit: I’ve used this before it’s pretty good
https://www.riogrande.com/product/midas-liver-of-sulfur-8-oz/331030
I am so clumsy
-Indiana Solo, runner of blades
Looks pretty good. Going to take a picture with all 3 just for funsies and then ship it off. Someone purchased one of my things! Whoo!
nerd bronze question: can you anneal it and work it cold?
hitting hot metal with hammers
Need to file down all the fret ends now which I suck at =/
Guess I'm about to get a lot of practice
@Radiation I haven't forgotten to clean up that one image and send it
.... I don't have a scanner at my house, so I'll have to do it monday =p
sorry about that!
After messing around with the aluminium and copper I'm more confident on the stainless steel part now.
Also finished this yesterday.
For a hackerspace near me that has an anniversary.
I really like this process you guys!
wish list
Steam wishlist
Etsy wishlist
They definitely look rough and weird when they're not all assembled. Especially since I had parts finished and parts unfinished (usually the same piece of wood).
Today I'm hoping to start drilling out the control cavities, but I also have to roast a chicken and start making stock for gumbo tomorrow so who knows if I'll have time
edit: I drilled out the tone control cavity and 1/4 of the other cavity and my girlfriend pulled up!
shit! got everything put away QUICK!
Yeah, to anneal it you take it to a black heat (just before it would start to turn orange/red, it gets dark while still appearing to glow in the flame), allow it to cool for a few seconds and then quench it. If you overheat it, you can let it air cool back down on it's own without quenching and then redo the annealing stage, but if you overheat it and then hit it, it'll start to crumble.
My experience with bronze and the Dwarven Gold, and the amount of research I did on the internet, has led me to believe that you generally want to cold work bronzes. Also it's a metal that really rewards taking your time when working it and not trying to rush the process.
It's from this local producer that got really popular recently for ombre yarns:
They have pop up colours for sale today, including a Pride skein
So much ombre *~*
Switch: SW-7603-3284-4227
My ACNH Wishlists | My ACNH Catalog
If you ain't completed a 24x30 acrylics project before you get to your subway stop, do you even craft bro?
That's the company that had the Wingspan shawl designed for them.
I must not look at that website....
Democrats Abroad! || Vote From Abroad
I should have my first solo class sometime in November. I'm super excited.
I'd love to take a class like this! Everything I know about woodworking has been through osmosis and personal experience and I'd rather know some things directly from people that know what the fuck they're doing.
I think I've talked about this before, but did more work on that cherry slab. I got it for a group build type thing at the makerspace, so we can build a river table. I cut it down the middle and also cut the edges at 90 degrees so that it is roughly the dimensions the final dimensions will be. I need to mull over what to do for the legs. I may weld some legs again, but that's a way later problem.
I need to figure out which configuration I like the best on the pictures (2-4). Wouldn't mind thoughts/suggestions.
Democrats Abroad! || Vote From Abroad
How do you mean flipped? Because the positions are somewhat fixed.
2nd would be the 'standard'. I really like the sort of knot in the top right (before the bump out) and wanted to keep that shown which is why I made the 3rd one as sort of a compromise.
Also the outer edges should have less spots. I had sanded off most of the bark, but going to hand sand those darker spots more.
Edit:
I wonder if it'd be easish to make a setup where the top is flipable. I guess it depends on the legs I get.
This will be here until I receive an apology or Weedlordvegeta get any consequences for being a bully