What did you expect when the first 3 characters that talk were named Slender, Denim, and Gene?
Not 1970's stuff. In that short, people are dressed in Victorian-Edwardian (or Belle Époque for our continental European readers) clothing, as was Turn A's Earth. I'm blanking on what it is, but I could swear he's done it in another (non-Gundam) series too.
Having never seen an episode of Gundam I tried to choose ones that seemed ugly and depressed. How close was I?
Kanden on
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H3KnucklesBut we decide which is rightand which is an illusion.Registered Userregular
edited January 2020
I'd say Doms are pretty massively popular as one of the 'core trio' of bad guy mass production designs from the original series, Z'gok's a pretty big staple too (it's the standard bad guy amphibious unit from the original series, and the red one is the custom paint job of the main antagonist). Acguy is perennially popular because of its ugly-cuteness. Asshimar doesn't get a ton of attention because it came from the second tv series and didn't stick around for long on the show, but people seem to like it okay.
miscellaneousinsanitygrass grows, birds fly, sun shines,and brother, i hurt peopleRegistered Userregular
amphibious zeon suits are all adorable and pure
gustav karl is depressed because it's the biggest jobber in the federation
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turtleantGunpla Dadis the best.Registered Userregular
Listen depending on the show everybody ugly and depressed
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AthenorBattle Hardened OptimistThe Skies of HiigaraRegistered Userregular
I've probably asked this before - has anyone had any luck in repairing polycaps? Google's not really helping, and there are a couple split polycaps in my models that I really want to get more friction in there.
I've probably asked this before - has anyone had any luck in repairing polycaps? Google's not really helping, and there are a couple split polycaps in my models that I really want to get more friction in there.
If these are Bandai polycaps I almost certainly have extras at this point. If you send me a picture I will dig through them.
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AthenorBattle Hardened OptimistThe Skies of HiigaraRegistered Userregular
I've probably asked this before - has anyone had any luck in repairing polycaps? Google's not really helping, and there are a couple split polycaps in my models that I really want to get more friction in there.
If these are Bandai polycaps I almost certainly have extras at this point. If you send me a picture I will dig through them.
Ooh, you've got an Acguy! I haven't managed to obtain one here in Belgium because from the US or Japan there are big shipping costs and import taxes :-/
The Zock is fantastic, I only have Z'Goks in HG (1/144) and the Asshimar actually has quite a neat transform method, and has a great colour scheme when in robot-mode.
The LBXDEQ00 is a really cute beginner kit, that doesn't even need nippers, and all the items on the runners are marked as "Arm 3" or "Leg 4" or "Torso 2"; and you can split the runners in 4 and put all parts of the same body part together. It's really intuitive.
You might need some clear nail polish to put on some joints as they can be a bit weak (for example when the arms always flop down).
I think the build order of complexness starts with the very easy LBDEX00, then the Acguy, Hi-Mock, Zock, MG Z'Gok, and the rest.
Just remember, the Zock is a really big 1/144 boy.
And you seem to have enough kits to already have a nice backlog
I've got a question about panel liners, Ive just been using a Gundam marker, but I wanted to try to Tamiya panel liners, the ones that come in like the glass bottle that you paint on. I ordered some of those and some Tamiya x-20 thinner for cleanup. I think I understand the applying and cleaning up part, but I'm kinda confused on the coating part? I guess the panel liners, and especially the thinner will just eat through the unpainted plastic so it needs a glossy coat, then the liners then a matte coat? Is that true? If it is what do y'all recommend for coating them with? I'm not really interested in full on painting them yet, but just wanna make sure not to chew up the plastic too badly.
Yeah Tamiya panel liners have warning labels not to put it on uncovered plastic. Their spray can stuff is fine and usually a buck or 2 cheaper then the Mr. Hobby stuff so just get a can of their gloss clear(TS-13) and flat clear(TS-80)
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miscellaneousinsanitygrass grows, birds fly, sun shines,and brother, i hurt peopleRegistered Userregular
the gloss coat is specifically because it helps the liner flow better, you can topcoat with either matte or gloss afterward depending on your preference
Oh yeah I definitely didn't notice the large warning label at first.
As far as I can tell it's not currently and actively melting plastic but when I went to clean off a panel after applying it the force of rubbing away excess broke a chunk off a panel that was not thin or something I worried about being delicate prior to
AthenorBattle Hardened OptimistThe Skies of HiigaraRegistered Userregular
edited January 2020
Chubbybots (of Lego mecha) is working on a Gojulas-inspired build, so that encouraged me to finally take my Gojulas imgur gallery public. You know, if you don't want to scroll through like 10 pages of this thread.
Oh yeah I definitely didn't notice the large warning label at first.
As far as I can tell it's not currently and actively melting plastic but when I went to clean off a panel after applying it the force of rubbing away excess broke a chunk off a panel that was not thin or something I worried about being delicate prior to
Just wanna make sure I've got the order of operations right, so build - spray gloss - lining/decals - spray matte.
Should I spray on the sprues or would it be better to do kinda like a halfsies build and separate the parts I want to line after that's done? When I'm doing the matte pass should I keep em separated or put em back together? If I don't need to take them apart pre-spray should I like tape up the exposed joints? How long should I wait between spray/lining/spray?
Sorry for so many questions, waiting on them to get here so just trying to chew through how I should do it. Want all my ducks in a row.
Yeah Tamiya panel liners have warning labels not to put it on uncovered plastic. Their spray can stuff is fine and usually a buck or 2 cheaper then the Mr. Hobby stuff so just get a can of their gloss clear(TS-13) and flat clear(TS-80)
If the hobby store doesn't have those specific ones what should I look for in a replacement? Like acrylic lacquer or something?
Should I spray on the sprues or would it be better to do kinda like a halfsies build and separate the parts I want to line after that's done?
I don't think you want to spray on the sprues. All models I've worked with have at least some pieces where some sprue connections are on a visible surface. If you spray such a piece while it's on the sprue, that spot won't get covered; when you cut it off the sprue, that spot won't match the rest of the surface. Also, it might be harder to clean up the spot where you cut the sprue if there's lacquer around that spot. (I guess this is not a big deal if you do a final top-coat finish with the piece off the sprue)
I think people who do the spray thing usually
- find all the pieces they plan to spray
- remove them from the sprues
- optionally, do a test fit to see how things come together, but then take it apart after
- attach them to convenient sticks with putty, tape-wrapped alligator clips or whatever, and stick them in foam, OR hang them from a string
- spray them with whatever
- after all your spraying is done, assemble the model
Yeah Tamiya panel liners have warning labels not to put it on uncovered plastic. Their spray can stuff is fine and usually a buck or 2 cheaper then the Mr. Hobby stuff so just get a can of their gloss clear(TS-13) and flat clear(TS-80)
If the hobby store doesn't have those specific ones what should I look for in a replacement? Like acrylic lacquer or something?
I've used Krylon Krystal Clear from Wal-Mart with good success.
To Delduwath's point, if you use the panel line pens, you can panel line on the sprue without issue. If you use the Tamiya Panel Liner (or similar thinned out enamel paints), you want the parts off of the sprue first. This is because the enamel panel liners will follow any panel lines or other features and will pool up where the sprue connects. And these can be a bit messy to work with, so you could easily end up with some unsightly marks.
I would also caution you to note that even if you spray a model, be careful when using the Tamiya Panel Liner because it will wick into gaps between parts, and can make the connection points brittle. The Skygrasper I painted and posted previously actually had the cannon ends on both of the side cannons split because of this, but thankfully they were easy to glue on. Had it been a critical moving piece, I could have been in trouble.
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AthenorBattle Hardened OptimistThe Skies of HiigaraRegistered Userregular
Huh. I hadn't thought about the wicking elements with spraying/painting before.
Is the recommendation, then, to maybe use plastic cement to seal up everything before priming?
Going to recommend a wash instead of panel liner again because there is no danger of damaging the plastic and you don't have to spray the model first. It's very lazy modeler-friendly.
This was weathered and panel lined at the same time. Almost entirely with a wash.
But if you use stickers, it might be a good idea to apply stickers on bare plastic, then gloss coat, then panel line/wash. That way the wash doesn't collect around the edges of the stickers.
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Descendant XSkyrim is my god now.Outpost 31Registered Userregular
Going to recommend a wash instead of panel liner again because there is no danger of damaging the plastic and you don't have to spray the model first. It's very lazy modeler-friendly.
This was weathered and panel lined at the same time. Almost entirely with a wash.
But if you use stickers, it might be a good idea to apply stickers on bare plastic, then gloss coat, then panel line/wash. That way the wash doesn't collect around the edges of the stickers.
When you say wash, do you mean the Tamiya liquid liner or something more along the lines of GW’s inks?
Garry: I know you gentlemen have been through a lot, but when you find the time I'd rather not spend the rest of the winter TIED TO THIS FUCKING COUCH!
A wash is a thinned out ink, oil, or acrylic paint. GW washes are an example of this. You can also make your own with acrylic paint using acrylic mixing medium or Future!(r) Floor Polish or certain ways with oils (I haven't tried these). The Gundam Pour Markers use a thinned out oil paint. Oil paints have one advantage that you can clean up any residue with propyl alcohol.
Specifically I mean Vallejo Grey or Dark Grey Model Wash. It's a thinned out acrylic paint. Even days after it dries, you can use water and some cotton balls or qtips to move it around or sop most of it up. But it will tint the plastic at least a little.
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AthenorBattle Hardened OptimistThe Skies of HiigaraRegistered Userregular
I won't lie, I've considered using Army Painter's instant wash / dipping stuff before. I dunno if that is acryllic or enamel, though.
Dark Raven XLaugh hard, run fast,be kindRegistered Userregular
Smashyboi complete.
No decals yet, because I'm still entertaining the idea of painting him. Some panel lining though!
This a good ass Gundam. He can indeed hold his weapons no problem. Everything feels nice and tight. Front right skirt is loose as heck tho, maybe I trimmed it wrong.
Posts
Not 1970's stuff. In that short, people are dressed in Victorian-Edwardian (or Belle Époque for our continental European readers) clothing, as was Turn A's Earth. I'm blanking on what it is, but I could swear he's done it in another (non-Gundam) series too.
All fashion becomes cool again as it becomes retro.
Any old day now
I get everything in like, 3 days tops, it's great.
For old stuff Amazon is often the best option though, unfortunately. Just make sure to check out the other sellers page.
OH, also I don't know if they still do it, but someone on Amazon sells gundam kits with a "bonus" trading card for a huge price hike. Avoid those.
Having never seen an episode of Gundam I tried to choose ones that seemed ugly and depressed. How close was I?
gustav karl is depressed because it's the biggest jobber in the federation
As opposed to beautiful and depressed
If these are Bandai polycaps I almost certainly have extras at this point. If you send me a picture I will dig through them.
They aren't, naturally.
The Zock is fantastic, I only have Z'Goks in HG (1/144) and the Asshimar actually has quite a neat transform method, and has a great colour scheme when in robot-mode.
The LBXDEQ00 is a really cute beginner kit, that doesn't even need nippers, and all the items on the runners are marked as "Arm 3" or "Leg 4" or "Torso 2"; and you can split the runners in 4 and put all parts of the same body part together. It's really intuitive.
You might need some clear nail polish to put on some joints as they can be a bit weak (for example when the arms always flop down).
I think the build order of complexness starts with the very easy LBDEX00, then the Acguy, Hi-Mock, Zock, MG Z'Gok, and the rest.
Just remember, the Zock is a really big 1/144 boy.
And you seem to have enough kits to already have a nice backlog
Have fun!
As far as I can tell it's not currently and actively melting plastic but when I went to clean off a panel after applying it the force of rubbing away excess broke a chunk off a panel that was not thin or something I worried about being delicate prior to
https://imgur.com/gallery/VnEQLcE
Edit: Fixed the name.
(Also, the guy's name is Chubbybots.)
Yep, it makes the plastic brittle.
Should I spray on the sprues or would it be better to do kinda like a halfsies build and separate the parts I want to line after that's done? When I'm doing the matte pass should I keep em separated or put em back together? If I don't need to take them apart pre-spray should I like tape up the exposed joints? How long should I wait between spray/lining/spray?
Sorry for so many questions, waiting on them to get here so just trying to chew through how I should do it. Want all my ducks in a row.
If the hobby store doesn't have those specific ones what should I look for in a replacement? Like acrylic lacquer or something?
I think people who do the spray thing usually
- find all the pieces they plan to spray
- remove them from the sprues
- optionally, do a test fit to see how things come together, but then take it apart after
- attach them to convenient sticks with putty, tape-wrapped alligator clips or whatever, and stick them in foam, OR hang them from a string
- spray them with whatever
- after all your spraying is done, assemble the model
I've never done anything like that, though.
I've used Krylon Krystal Clear from Wal-Mart with good success.
To Delduwath's point, if you use the panel line pens, you can panel line on the sprue without issue. If you use the Tamiya Panel Liner (or similar thinned out enamel paints), you want the parts off of the sprue first. This is because the enamel panel liners will follow any panel lines or other features and will pool up where the sprue connects. And these can be a bit messy to work with, so you could easily end up with some unsightly marks.
I would also caution you to note that even if you spray a model, be careful when using the Tamiya Panel Liner because it will wick into gaps between parts, and can make the connection points brittle. The Skygrasper I painted and posted previously actually had the cannon ends on both of the side cannons split because of this, but thankfully they were easy to glue on. Had it been a critical moving piece, I could have been in trouble.
Is the recommendation, then, to maybe use plastic cement to seal up everything before priming?
This was weathered and panel lined at the same time. Almost entirely with a wash.
But if you use stickers, it might be a good idea to apply stickers on bare plastic, then gloss coat, then panel line/wash. That way the wash doesn't collect around the edges of the stickers.
When you say wash, do you mean the Tamiya liquid liner or something more along the lines of GW’s inks?
Smashyboi complete.
No decals yet, because I'm still entertaining the idea of painting him. Some panel lining though!
This a good ass Gundam. He can indeed hold his weapons no problem. Everything feels nice and tight. Front right skirt is loose as heck tho, maybe I trimmed it wrong.
It's a polyurethane acrylic.