On a side note, my order from green stuff world is taking so damn long to get here. I'm wondering if it being from Spain and Spain getting hit pretty hard by the virus is holding it up.
I have some stuff coming from Spain, too (though from a different company). I have a feeling the both of us are going to be waiting a long while. International shipping in general seems to be pretty disrupted right now, and a lot of Spain is totally locked down. I imagine there are a lot of warehouses and offices which are totally closed until the worst of it passes.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Oh hey I painted up my Legion objectives set finally.
On a side note, my order from green stuff world is taking so damn long to get here. I'm wondering if it being from Spain and Spain getting hit pretty hard by the virus is holding it up.
I have some stuff coming from Spain, too (though from a different company). I have a feeling the both of us are going to be waiting a long while. International shipping in general seems to be pretty disrupted right now, and a lot of Spain is totally locked down. I imagine there are a lot of warehouses and offices which are totally closed until the worst of it passes.
Yea, I was hoping I ordered it before stuff got too bad. It is supposed to be shipped and says it is on the way to the US but it has been like that for a week and a half now which is unusual which is why I think something might be up.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I got an order in from yedharo models in Spain just the other day. So don't give up hope!
Also thanks for the suggestions. I was initially going for a sort of glam rock vibrant pink with the white to break it up. I'll have to try again on a different piece.
my initial coats were thru airbrush.Then I glossed it before washing. Sadly I gave up in the interest of moving on and getting the dude finished. Things were getting chunky. Next time I'll try building from a greeny black.
I usually lay down the magenta base color then shade with a glaze of magenta / dark bluegreen mix then line with some super thin dark bluegreen. Incubi Darkness might work if you have that? I tend to use P3 Coal Black but I think they're pretty similar.
Probably the best thing I've learned in recent years is getting out of the GW style of base color -> shade with darker base color -> highlight with lighter base color.
Shading caucasian skin with green? Highlighting blue with pale flesh tones? Shading brown with purple? Fuck yeah get weird, man.
I usually lay down the magenta base color then shade with a glaze of magenta / dark bluegreen mix then line with some super thin dark bluegreen. Incubi Darkness might work if you have that? I tend to use P3 Coal Black but I think they're pretty similar.
Probably the best thing I've learned in recent years is getting out of the GW style of base color -> shade with darker base color -> highlight with lighter base color.
Shading caucasian skin with green? Highlighting blue with pale flesh tones? Shading brown with purple? Fuck yeah get weird, man.
I saw on reddit yesterday a Nurgle vehicle a guy had based with turquoise then drybrush with pale skintone highlights.
It looked baller.
I'm trying to get better with this stuff, but it's tough getting away from the GW paint system crutch. The wings I did on my crypt flayers were great... blue undertones and yellow highlights sprayed with transparent red to give them purple shadows and orangey-red overtones was fantastic.
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
edited April 2020
Just got notification today that my order from Spain processed through customs in New York. Or at least it is in the sorting facility in Queens.
Still can't find a replacement part for my airbrush so it looks like I need to buy a new one so I can actually finish painting my plague monks.
I kind of want to go cheap since I only need it for priming how until I can fix my current brush.
I'm just gonna buy new parts for my paasche tg airbrush. To get new parts, a nozzle, and needle included it will cost $24 after this $20 amazon gift card.
This will tide me over till I can get a new nozzle for my current and preferred airbrush.
I don't know why but my mind is telling me this was a waste of money to do. Weird.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I wasn't sure about that space marine from last page... he seemed a bit dull with just the grey and gold so I now have about an inch of paint on his shoulder pad testing accent colors... I'm no further along than I was before on deciding what I like... This shade of blue-grey is super weird to find an accent for and I'm torn between sticking to red or yellow or white to be space-wolfey or just doing something totally different.
When it's all said and done I might end up sticking with the original straight blue-grey shoulderpad
I like the white (with dark red being runner up), and then I'd sink the colours into the lenses and base (red mars, or blue/purple mud or something)
Because he's so detsaturated, all the super-bright shoulderpads draw the eye way too much and don't really fit with the rest of the scheme. This is a muted palette, I think you need to keep it mostly muted.
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Is there an actual difference between vallejo game air and game color? I found the orange I need to mix with metal medium but it is almost empty and the orange is $6 for the game air or the game color is on sale.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I like the white (with dark red being runner up), and then I'd sink the colours into the lenses and base (red mars, or blue/purple mud or something)
Because he's so detsaturated, all the super-bright shoulderpads draw the eye way too much and don't really fit with the rest of the scheme. This is a muted palette, I think you need to keep it mostly muted.
Yeah, ok... That's what I couldn't pin down. Thanks Mcgibs.
Couple more tests and it might be time to start actually painting this army
It's been a huge debate about painting my apothecary for the black templars as all white doesn't seem that great in a sea of black
I will post my techmarine from the past I painted but the glue decayed in. Other than the constant wind it is getting nice outside but with the steps against the virus and other things it does suck as now was when I was going to get some more primer
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
Is there an actual difference between vallejo game air and game color? I found the orange I need to mix with metal medium but it is almost empty and the orange is $6 for the game air or the game color is on sale.
Game Air is prethinned, Game Color is definitely not. Air also leaves out certain pigments (Cadmium principally) due to health impacts (spraying Cadmium is bad m'kay), which means the actual tone and hue of two "identical" colors between the lines may mean they don't actually turn out identical in use.
If you switch between the lines, test them before you throw a bunch at a project. I ran into this hard with yellows (again, cadmium); I had a perfect yellow in Game Color for a project, but tried multiple close Game Air paints and none of them lined up exactly once everything dried.
I wanted to get better shots of the Salamanders kill team. Getting better photos is such a double edged sword.
Yay, much clearer and nicer.
Boo, now I can see the imperfections so much more.
They look fantastic! And yes, the double edged sword of good photos can cut deep. If I had a dollar for each time I noticed a flaw or a missed mould line , then well ... I could almost afford to buy something from forgeworld ;P
Is there an actual difference between vallejo game air and game color? I found the orange I need to mix with metal medium but it is almost empty and the orange is $6 for the game air or the game color is on sale.
Game Air is prethinned, Game Color is definitely not. Air also leaves out certain pigments (Cadmium principally) due to health impacts (spraying Cadmium is bad m'kay), which means the actual tone and hue of two "identical" colors between the lines may mean they don't actually turn out identical in use.
If you switch between the lines, test them before you throw a bunch at a project. I ran into this hard with yellows (again, cadmium); I had a perfect yellow in Game Color for a project, but tried multiple close Game Air paints and none of them lined up exactly once everything dried.
Thank you for breaking it down for me. I'm gonna stick with the game air. I definitely don't want to mess around with not getting the color I want.
The game air hot orange mixed with vallejo metal medium gives me the orange color I've been wanting for a metallic so I'm gonna need more for when I start painting up my Skryre.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
In fairness, cadmium does still make for richerr reds and yellows than any alternative I've seen. The difference isn't nearly as great as it used to be, though, and at the scale you work with on miniatures you're probably not going to notice at all. And the difference that is there is going to be outweighed by the fact that cadmium is mad poisonous and can't be run through an airbrush.
EDIT: Actually, come to think of it, something like pyrrole is probably a better red pigment than cadmium for miniatures anyway, just because it's brighter, even if it trends a little bit purple/pink compared to cadmium.
BloodySloth on
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
I think it's important to keep in mind that just because they stopped manufacturing with cadmium doesn't mean the bottle you buy off the shelf is cadmium-free. There's going to be cadmium formulations of their Model and Game lines on vendor's shelves for years, and everyone should be aware of this.
been a while since i've managed to post anything, but decent light and quarantine has got me back in action. this guy i started back when centurion oblits were still cool!
It's just diminished ever so slightly by the fact that the new obliterators are also cool. But conversions have an inherent coolness factor that never diminishes.
TheGerbil on
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Scale 75 black is so good. I am painting a coat to put the metallic orange over and it looks so nice.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
+7
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
My scale 75 paints are in transit and I can't wait for them to show up.
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
edited April 2020
I'm getting the hang of this metal medium. The orange went over the wraithbone primer WAY better than it did over the black base coat. Had wraithbone on the head.
I hit all that metal with a wash of agrax.
Does anyone know a good alternative to doing an albino scheme on the fur? I absolutely hate using ulthuan grey at this point. It gets chunky so fast when I put it on the wet pallet and I think the ulthuan grey is why the home made black wash I made looks kind of off. Something about how that paint is applying and drying.
The process I do is celestra grey, ulthuan grey, and then a wash with highlighting if able.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
I'd posted a file for a paint rack off the thingiverse a few pages back.. Having gotten my 3d printer back up and running I made a few... total of about 60 hours of printing time, but my new scale 75 paints and my vallejo airpaints have a home now.
Scale 75 black is so good. I am painting a coat to put the metallic orange over and it looks so nice.
I find the Scale75 black to be too matte for my tastes though it is still a good paint. It tends to read as a very dark grey.
I prefer their Fantasy & Games black or, even better, the Artist black they make.
Yea, I was surprised by how matte they are once they dry. I noticed it when I painted a bunch of my terrain with a scale 75 purple color. I was not at all used to that kind of finish.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Question about oils and enamels... every youtube video and article I've found obviously uses oil and enamel with "odorless white spirits". With the whole covid crisis I can't get stuff out of the US like I usually do (Canadian living near the WA border) so my options are 1) my local art shop which is closed due to covid or 2) exorbitant prices online via amazon or other shops that I'm not willing to pay plus even more ridiculous shipping via Canada post.
Are you able to use a product like Varsol, paint thinner, or other mineral spirits to get the same effect? I assume it'll have an odor unlike white spirits, but does it functon the same way?
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Mixed the black metal from scale 75 with some flow improver and black ink to go darker, it definitely worked. Used it on the backpack of my Bombardier. I then did other parts in warplock bronze and now I can't wait to add some gold and silver to brighten it. I went way too dark as is.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Whelp, I guess the paint scheme is settled. First space wolf painted.
Going to try batch painting the rest of the squad next to see if it speeds things up. Power armor takes so much longer than organic things like flesh eaters.
Even having to base so many small details first, oil washes are still fantastic to work with.
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
Ok guys, I need some feel-good reassurances. I'm assembling some of my first multi-part metal 28mm models (that's not a BattleMech) in what feels like forever, and because the arms are relatively small/light I'm forgoing pinning and just using some high-quality superglue. I'm scoring the parts, and dry fitting, and and and...
...This is gonna turn out alright, right? I've been pinning my models for so long, I don't remember what to expect without it here and it makes me nervous.
Posts
Also shade magenta with a dark blue-green like P3 Coal Black. You're welcome.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I have some stuff coming from Spain, too (though from a different company). I have a feeling the both of us are going to be waiting a long while. International shipping in general seems to be pretty disrupted right now, and a lot of Spain is totally locked down. I imagine there are a lot of warehouses and offices which are totally closed until the worst of it passes.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Yea, I was hoping I ordered it before stuff got too bad. It is supposed to be shipped and says it is on the way to the US but it has been like that for a week and a half now which is unusual which is why I think something might be up.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Also thanks for the suggestions. I was initially going for a sort of glam rock vibrant pink with the white to break it up. I'll have to try again on a different piece.
my initial coats were thru airbrush.Then I glossed it before washing. Sadly I gave up in the interest of moving on and getting the dude finished. Things were getting chunky. Next time I'll try building from a greeny black.
Now to roll a d12 to pick which is next I guess...
I usually lay down the magenta base color then shade with a glaze of magenta / dark bluegreen mix then line with some super thin dark bluegreen. Incubi Darkness might work if you have that? I tend to use P3 Coal Black but I think they're pretty similar.
Probably the best thing I've learned in recent years is getting out of the GW style of base color -> shade with darker base color -> highlight with lighter base color.
Shading caucasian skin with green? Highlighting blue with pale flesh tones? Shading brown with purple? Fuck yeah get weird, man.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I saw on reddit yesterday a Nurgle vehicle a guy had based with turquoise then drybrush with pale skintone highlights.
It looked baller.
I'm trying to get better with this stuff, but it's tough getting away from the GW paint system crutch. The wings I did on my crypt flayers were great... blue undertones and yellow highlights sprayed with transparent red to give them purple shadows and orangey-red overtones was fantastic.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Still can't find a replacement part for my airbrush so it looks like I need to buy a new one so I can actually finish painting my plague monks.
I kind of want to go cheap since I only need it for priming how until I can fix my current brush.
I'm just gonna buy new parts for my paasche tg airbrush. To get new parts, a nozzle, and needle included it will cost $24 after this $20 amazon gift card.
This will tide me over till I can get a new nozzle for my current and preferred airbrush.
I don't know why but my mind is telling me this was a waste of money to do. Weird.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
When it's all said and done I might end up sticking with the original straight blue-grey shoulderpad
SUCH INDECISION
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Because he's so detsaturated, all the super-bright shoulderpads draw the eye way too much and don't really fit with the rest of the scheme. This is a muted palette, I think you need to keep it mostly muted.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Yeah, ok... That's what I couldn't pin down. Thanks Mcgibs.
Couple more tests and it might be time to start actually painting this army
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Yay, much clearer and nicer.
Boo, now I can see the imperfections so much more.
Medic
Gunner/Tac Marine
Heavy
Flamer Specialist
Close Combat Marine
I will post my techmarine from the past I painted but the glue decayed in. Other than the constant wind it is getting nice outside but with the steps against the virus and other things it does suck as now was when I was going to get some more primer
Game Air is prethinned, Game Color is definitely not. Air also leaves out certain pigments (Cadmium principally) due to health impacts (spraying Cadmium is bad m'kay), which means the actual tone and hue of two "identical" colors between the lines may mean they don't actually turn out identical in use.
If you switch between the lines, test them before you throw a bunch at a project. I ran into this hard with yellows (again, cadmium); I had a perfect yellow in Game Color for a project, but tried multiple close Game Air paints and none of them lined up exactly once everything dried.
They look fantastic! And yes, the double edged sword of good photos can cut deep. If I had a dollar for each time I noticed a flaw or a missed mould line , then well ... I could almost afford to buy something from forgeworld ;P
Album is located here of all the images (and then some).
First up: More endless spells
Step 1 of the Eyes of the Nine (The Tzaangor)
Step 6 of the eyes of the Nine (Vortimis the Magister)
Fuck this one is blurry, sorry
Steps 2-5 and 1 and 6: All the others
Thank you for breaking it down for me. I'm gonna stick with the game air. I definitely don't want to mess around with not getting the color I want.
The game air hot orange mixed with vallejo metal medium gives me the orange color I've been wanting for a metallic so I'm gonna need more for when I start painting up my Skryre.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I can see why, Cadmium is absolutely nasty stuff.
It was one of the reasons I did not like using Vallejo paints
EDIT: Actually, come to think of it, something like pyrrole is probably a better red pigment than cadmium for miniatures anyway, just because it's brighter, even if it trends a little bit purple/pink compared to cadmium.
I think it's important to keep in mind that just because they stopped manufacturing with cadmium doesn't mean the bottle you buy off the shelf is cadmium-free. There's going to be cadmium formulations of their Model and Game lines on vendor's shelves for years, and everyone should be aware of this.
It's just diminished ever so slightly by the fact that the new obliterators are also cool. But conversions have an inherent coolness factor that never diminishes.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
I hit all that metal with a wash of agrax.
Does anyone know a good alternative to doing an albino scheme on the fur? I absolutely hate using ulthuan grey at this point. It gets chunky so fast when I put it on the wet pallet and I think the ulthuan grey is why the home made black wash I made looks kind of off. Something about how that paint is applying and drying.
The process I do is celestra grey, ulthuan grey, and then a wash with highlighting if able.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I find the Scale75 black to be too matte for my tastes though it is still a good paint. It tends to read as a very dark grey.
I prefer their Fantasy & Games black or, even better, the Artist black they make.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Yea, I was surprised by how matte they are once they dry. I noticed it when I painted a bunch of my terrain with a scale 75 purple color. I was not at all used to that kind of finish.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Are you able to use a product like Varsol, paint thinner, or other mineral spirits to get the same effect? I assume it'll have an odor unlike white spirits, but does it functon the same way?
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Man, I thought spilling shades was bad. I look like a scribe from the 1500s, hands covered in black ink.
You talk clean and bomb hospitals, so I speak with the foulest mouth possible
Sans topknot.
Edit: Bonus: Mogor the Ogor
(Named after a WoW character.)
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Going to try batch painting the rest of the squad next to see if it speeds things up. Power armor takes so much longer than organic things like flesh eaters.
Even having to base so many small details first, oil washes are still fantastic to work with.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
...This is gonna turn out alright, right? I've been pinning my models for so long, I don't remember what to expect without it here and it makes me nervous.