If you're on an OLED anyway, consider just running it unscaled. Maybe it's just cause I'm using a 48" screen at like a meter away, but just running it windowed, with the true black background around it still looks really good
If you're on an OLED anyway, consider just running it unscaled. Maybe it's just cause I'm using a 48" screen at like a meter away, but just running it windowed, with the true black background around it still looks really good
I just set up a desktop again (after a long time using a living room PC), and I went with a 48" OLED wall mounted as my main display, across a 30" desk, so about 3' between me and the screen.
So far so good. I haven't tried gaming windowed yet, but I may give it a shot -- it will definitely be nostalgic since some of my earliest gaming was on those forerunner MMOs with chunky UIs like Everquest and UO.
I picked up a 1TB Sabrent Rocket NVMe drive. Now I'm looking for some sort of SATA enclosure/adapter to repurpose the 512GB NVMe drive I'll be removing.
I picked up a 1TB Sabrent Rocket NVMe drive. Now I'm looking for some sort of SATA enclosure/adapter to repurpose the 512GB NVMe drive I'll be removing.
I'd pay the extra $7 and get the dual socket one tbh
The dual one fits one B key and one M key drive, I feel like most people just have M key drives.
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OrcaAlso known as EspressosaurusWrexRegistered Userregular
I'd also get a name brand version. Yes, those are just straight traces, but having run into enough EMI and crosstalk problems in my professional life I don't trust even simple designs to be robust from no-name vendors.
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
Watching StockX, 3080 Ti's are down to ~25% over MSRP. Signs i might be able to upgrade the 2080 Ti in my sim rig sometime before climate change kills us all? Mayhaps.
Watching StockX, 3080 Ti's are down to ~25% over MSRP. Signs i might be able to upgrade the 2080 Ti in my sim rig sometime before climate change kills us all? Mayhaps.
honestly, I'm not sure it's THAT big a jump from a 2080ti. Probably only like 30-40%
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
Watching StockX, 3080 Ti's are down to ~25% over MSRP. Signs i might be able to upgrade the 2080 Ti in my sim rig sometime before climate change kills us all? Mayhaps.
honestly, I'm not sure it's THAT big a jump from a 2080ti. Probably only like 30-40%
30-40% is a big jump when you're hardware limited in the VR use case. Getting more stable frame rate, and better resolution, in sim racing, my primary VR use case, is worth the upgrade cost to me once I can get one at mostly MSRP from a reputable source.
Yo, did something happen to PCPartPicker? Just tried going there, and it's requiring a captcha security check just to access the site (not logging into any account). Even Googling PCPP is showing some weird results (the account login page is the first result, but the rest of the results are ads and/or social media sites).
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except, amazon is also selling a similar model (ViewSonic Elite XG270Q) with a 165 refresh rate for cheaper than either of those???
anyone have a helpful thought on how to choose? I did some noob research and can't tell if freesync is fine or if having the real deal gsync is important, idgi why the higher refresh rate viewsonic is cheaper, etc
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jungleroomxIt's never too many graves, it's always not enough shovelsRegistered Userregular
except, amazon is also selling a similar model (ViewSonic Elite XG270Q) with a 165 refresh rate for cheaper than either of those???
anyone have a helpful thought on how to choose? I did some noob research and can't tell if freesync is fine or if having the real deal gsync is important, idgi why the higher refresh rate viewsonic is cheaper, etc
Get something with HDR600 at least. You will regret not getting it. It's more important than 120 vs 144 vs 165 hz. As long as you're 120+ it's fine.
I still suggest either a Samsung CH70 or G7 for 1440p gaming. One's a little older (the CH70), both have big HDR zones so you notice the HDR on black backgrounds with white objects, but for just AAA gaming they look fairly incredible and it's really, really, really fucking hard to go back.
If you've got the ducats to blow on the G7, it's likely the best monitor for the money on the market right now, especially since it has GSync.
jungleroomx on
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
edited July 2021
e: Derp we just talked about this...*forehead slap*. Work is making me tired.
except, amazon is also selling a similar model (ViewSonic Elite XG270Q) with a 165 refresh rate for cheaper than either of those???
anyone have a helpful thought on how to choose? I did some noob research and can't tell if freesync is fine or if having the real deal gsync is important, idgi why the higher refresh rate viewsonic is cheaper, etc
I think the only way to buy a monitor is to pick a price point you're comfortable spending, and then look at the monitors around that price. The G7 is an awesome monitor. It is also $700.
Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
So, I got my new memory and they're working well but my current bottleneck is honestly my CPU. It's an intel 6600k and it's beginning to show its age. The major problem I'm having though isn't so much the stuff I normally do, as that I want to do streaming and that's starting to run into the wall of maxed out CPU usage. There are three potential ways I could see to solve this problem.
1. Buy a new CPU, something from the last year or two, hope the increase does the trick.
2. Buy or Build a dedicated streaming PC, theoretically not too expensive since it's only handling half of the work.
3. Get a laptop for it. This is the one I know the least about, and the pricing is more of a mystery to me too. Not sure if this is a viable option or not (at least, not if I don't want to spend more than I would on a dedicated PC anyway)
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
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OrcaAlso known as EspressosaurusWrexRegistered Userregular
There is no world in which a laptop is less expensive than a desktop for equivalent horsepower.
It may be more convenient because it's portable however.
Yo, did something happen to PCPartPicker? Just tried going there, and it's requiring a captcha security check just to access the site (not logging into any account). Even Googling PCPP is showing some weird results (the account login page is the first result, but the rest of the results are ads and/or social media sites).
I just went there and got the standard page and nothing that you're describing. You're going to pcpartpicker.com, right?
There is no world in which a laptop is less expensive than a desktop for equivalent horsepower.
It may be more convenient because it's portable however.
Hmm, that's fair. I suppose one way to go about it would be to replace all the bits in my current PC that are older (as I've done with my RAM) then use those when building a second one, which would reduce the cost overall since I'm going to be upgrading my main PC either way. Not sure what CPU I'd go for though, since I've heard the current generation of intel stuff isn't as competitive.
Lord_Asmodeus on
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
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jungleroomxIt's never too many graves, it's always not enough shovelsRegistered Userregular
There is no world in which a laptop is less expensive than a desktop for equivalent horsepower.
It may be more convenient because it's portable however.
Hmm, that's fair. I suppose one way to go about it would be to replace all the bits in my current PC that are older (as I've done with my RAM) then use those when building a second one, which would reduce the cost overall since I'm going to be upgrading my main PC either way. Not sure what CPU I'd go for though, since I've heard the current generation of intel stuff isn't as competitive.
AMD is currently mopping the floor with Intel, yes.
Next gen may be different, Adler lake has had some performance leaks that show it crushing, but we've seen these leaks before and they usually end up being edge cases. So as with anything, wait for benchmarks.
Next gen chips are also bringing DDR5, PCIe 5, and USB 4.0.
Do not listen to performance claims from the manufacturers, wait for independent benchmarks. Metrics from the manufacturers are always trying to sell you their product. Be advertisement aware.
Also isn't the next gen of AMD chips going to require a new socket? So it's not like you're married into the brand when the next gen comes around anyways, right?
Also isn't the next gen of AMD chips going to require a new socket? So it's not like you're married into the brand when the next gen comes around anyways, right?
Yup. I'm looking to do a completely open air ITX build next time. Adler lake is going to be Intels first foray into BIGlittle so I'm hesitant on that, whereas as far as I know Zen4 is just the next generation Zen chiplet design.
sigh. Got a ASUS 3090 yesterday. But it seems DOA. screen flickers briefly when it is powered on, but no POST. Q-codes cycle through 00, 0a, 07, 53, de, ad. tried re-seating, but same result. RGB lights up, fans spin, at least on power on, but eventually shut off. prior to installation, I uninstalled nvidia drivers
one of the codes indicates a memory error, but my system RAM has been working fine, unless the qcodes actually test vram
I had been previously been using a borrowed 2080 which had been working fine. System returns to normal when I re-install the 2080.
Anything I'm missing? This would be my first video card DOA
sigh. Got a ASUS 3090 yesterday. But it seems DOA. screen flickers briefly when it is powered on, but no POST. Q-codes cycle through 00, 0a, 07, 53, de, ad. tried re-seating, but same result. RGB lights up, fans spin, at least on power on, but eventually shut off. prior to installation, I uninstalled nvidia drivers
one of the codes indicates a memory error, but my system RAM has been working fine, unless the qcodes actually test vram
I had been previously been using a borrowed 2080 which had been working fine. System returns to normal when I re-install the 2080.
Anything I'm missing? This would be my first video card DOA
Your PSU isn't choking up is it?
Steam - Synthetic Violence | XBOX Live - Cannonfuse | PSN - CastleBravo | Twitch - SoggybiscuitPA
sigh. Got a ASUS 3090 yesterday. But it seems DOA. screen flickers briefly when it is powered on, but no POST. Q-codes cycle through 00, 0a, 07, 53, de, ad. tried re-seating, but same result. RGB lights up, fans spin, at least on power on, but eventually shut off. prior to installation, I uninstalled nvidia drivers
one of the codes indicates a memory error, but my system RAM has been working fine, unless the qcodes actually test vram
I had been previously been using a borrowed 2080 which had been working fine. System returns to normal when I re-install the 2080.
Anything I'm missing? This would be my first video card DOA
Your PSU isn't choking up is it?
how would I know? brand new 1000 watt Corsair HX1000i
my understanding is that the PCIE power connectors have a LED that lights up if they are being underpowered. despite the RGB kinda drowning things out a bit, I don't see any LEDs like that
cycled power again. this time, within 5 seconds, system powered itself off and back on, repeated this like 4-5 times before it stopped, different series of q-codes.
Posts
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vT_D5o86cDxQ5giuqzusqf-SoDYGvs-0iQjLJHOk08xPpJagce2AU_NDld_sttngTnJMbdSJQ-8wXsk/pubhtml
I just set up a desktop again (after a long time using a living room PC), and I went with a 48" OLED wall mounted as my main display, across a 30" desk, so about 3' between me and the screen.
So far so good. I haven't tried gaming windowed yet, but I may give it a shot -- it will definitely be nostalgic since some of my earliest gaming was on those forerunner MMOs with chunky UIs like Everquest and UO.
Comes preinstalled with TetanOS
PCI-e adapter. Surely you have an extra PCI-e slot...
The dual one fits one B key and one M key drive, I feel like most people just have M key drives.
It supposedly has DisplayHDR2000.
This will be me after I get one and boot up cyberpunk.
Let's play Mario Kart or something...
e: VESA says Samsung and Acer are full of shit: https://www.pcgamer.com/displayhdr-2000-false-vesa-samsung-acer/
honestly, I'm not sure it's THAT big a jump from a 2080ti. Probably only like 30-40%
30-40% is a big jump when you're hardware limited in the VR use case. Getting more stable frame rate, and better resolution, in sim racing, my primary VR use case, is worth the upgrade cost to me once I can get one at mostly MSRP from a reputable source.
but that means I need to choose a monitor, can y'all help?
the pc has a geforce 3070, so it seems like a 1440p monitor with a high refresh rate is what I should be aiming for?
I looked at rtings - https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/best/1440p-144hz - and the top pick (ASUS ROG Strix XG27AQ) is $187 cheaper than the top gsync pick (ViewSonic ELITE XG270QG 27)
except, amazon is also selling a similar model (ViewSonic Elite XG270Q) with a 165 refresh rate for cheaper than either of those???
anyone have a helpful thought on how to choose? I did some noob research and can't tell if freesync is fine or if having the real deal gsync is important, idgi why the higher refresh rate viewsonic is cheaper, etc
Get something with HDR600 at least. You will regret not getting it. It's more important than 120 vs 144 vs 165 hz. As long as you're 120+ it's fine.
I still suggest either a Samsung CH70 or G7 for 1440p gaming. One's a little older (the CH70), both have big HDR zones so you notice the HDR on black backgrounds with white objects, but for just AAA gaming they look fairly incredible and it's really, really, really fucking hard to go back.
If you've got the ducats to blow on the G7, it's likely the best monitor for the money on the market right now, especially since it has GSync.
Now I need a complete dirty list of windows settings for anything privacy related (as I know a lot of it is hidden/buried throughout windows10)
I think the only way to buy a monitor is to pick a price point you're comfortable spending, and then look at the monitors around that price. The G7 is an awesome monitor. It is also $700.
I posted this video before, it's recent and they are generally pretty good on monitor assessments:
1. Buy a new CPU, something from the last year or two, hope the increase does the trick.
2. Buy or Build a dedicated streaming PC, theoretically not too expensive since it's only handling half of the work.
3. Get a laptop for it. This is the one I know the least about, and the pricing is more of a mystery to me too. Not sure if this is a viable option or not (at least, not if I don't want to spend more than I would on a dedicated PC anyway)
It may be more convenient because it's portable however.
I just went there and got the standard page and nothing that you're describing. You're going to pcpartpicker.com, right?
Hmm, that's fair. I suppose one way to go about it would be to replace all the bits in my current PC that are older (as I've done with my RAM) then use those when building a second one, which would reduce the cost overall since I'm going to be upgrading my main PC either way. Not sure what CPU I'd go for though, since I've heard the current generation of intel stuff isn't as competitive.
AMD is currently mopping the floor with Intel, yes.
Next gen may be different, Adler lake has had some performance leaks that show it crushing, but we've seen these leaks before and they usually end up being edge cases. So as with anything, wait for benchmarks.
Next gen chips are also bringing DDR5, PCIe 5, and USB 4.0.
Yup. I'm looking to do a completely open air ITX build next time. Adler lake is going to be Intels first foray into BIGlittle so I'm hesitant on that, whereas as far as I know Zen4 is just the next generation Zen chiplet design.
one of the codes indicates a memory error, but my system RAM has been working fine, unless the qcodes actually test vram
I had been previously been using a borrowed 2080 which had been working fine. System returns to normal when I re-install the 2080.
Anything I'm missing? This would be my first video card DOA
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Your PSU isn't choking up is it?
how would I know? brand new 1000 watt Corsair HX1000i
Enlist in Star Citizen! Citizenship must be earned!
Enlist in Star Citizen! Citizenship must be earned!
Enlist in Star Citizen! Citizenship must be earned!
Enlist in Star Citizen! Citizenship must be earned!