How do the newer consoles handle 120hz? Now that I have a PS5 incoming, I'm wondering if it's time to update my OLED C6? Do the new consoles have the horsepower to make 120hz and VRR really that noticeable. Weird since I barely use it, but I'll miss the passive 3D feature.
Most of the bigger games coming out aren't even consistently doing 4k/60, but the 120hz mode has been utilised by some as a way to split the difference between 30 and 60FPS modes with good results - running at 40FPS plays nicely with 120Hz screens, so the Spider-Men games, Ratchet and Clank and most recently Horizon have had this option added and a lot of people say it's great.
I'm still using a B7 and don't feel like I'm missing out on a heap by not having HDMI2.1, but if I was looking for a new TV for some reason I'd make sure it came with it.
Switch Friend Code: SW-3944-9431-0318
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They're rare. I can think of only two Xbox games that are described as having a native 120 hz mode at 2160p--Ori and the Will of the Wisps and Gears 5.
In Gears 5's case, it's just multiplayer; in Ori 2's case, the Switch version doesn't go over 1080p, and doesn't consistently reach 60 FPS either.
I can't think of any Playstation 5 games that do it, but they're probably out there. Otherwise, the norm is more like Mass Effect Legendary Edition which is 1440p at 120 hz. It's the most logical place to cut corners. It's pretty obvious, given the overwhelming availability of UHD screens (effectively every panel over a certain size is going to be 4K, because television manufacturers skipped 1440p, which the PS5 doesn't support anyway from what I recall) over 120 hz screens, support for 4K is basically the norm anyway. If Digital Foundry is to be believed, we're actually much closer to consistently reaching 2160p60 at the start of this generation than we were reaching 1080p60 when the Playstation 4 and Xbox One launched, even if we're still using upscaling in either case. 30 FPS released titles are generally an exception versus 60 FPS titles. Having played both on my C1, I'd say reaching an imperfect 2160p is more important than an imperfect 20hz in most cases (but not all; I played Psychonauts 2 at the lower resolution mode, and the Xbox Series has had VRR since launch), but that matters less because only 1% of televisions can probably reach 120 hz anyway. And the only person who can tell if you if you prefer an inconsistent 120 hz over a consistent 60 hz is yourself.
With that in mind, no, I don't think it's worth replacing a 6 or 7-series LG OLED with a C2 right now. Maybe if these weren't premium price sets (or if you can find a really great deal a C1 or C2--I got mine discounted by $600, for example), but generally no. I don't think HDMI 2.1 justifies it personally, and I'm probably a lot more exacting about these technical details than even the average console gamer.
Fake Edit: OK, upon checking the Resident Evil 2 and 3 Remake both have a 120 hz mode that actually aims for 2160p. That's true on both Xbox Series X and Playstation 5.
I'm pretty excited about the new M series from Vizio and specifically the QX 65 inch model, I might be getting a bonus from work and I think I'm going to pull the trigger on one. It'd be a jump from a 55 inch tv to a 65 inch and I know it's going to look absolutely enormous but I don't think that's a bad thing.
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
Vizio makes pretty TVs with crap quality control. There are internal discussions about no longer offering the service plans on them because they're that unprofitable, and if you know retailers, they love service plans. The only major company we stopped doing those with before was Fitbit, again because of quality issues.
They make really feature rich TV sets that are great on paper, but I just don't trust them.
Do you mean, like Inputs? For example they have a antenna/cable option and they have hdmi1 and you don't want them to be able to switch off hdmi1 to the antenna? if that's what you mean, you might be able to disable certain things in the tv setup.
Do you mean, like Inputs? For example they have a antenna/cable option and they have hdmi1 and you don't want them to be able to switch off hdmi1 to the antenna? if that's what you mean, you might be able to disable certain things in the tv setup.
Yeah so I've got it set up for their new TV, but they're incapable of navigating two different remotes (one for the cable box, one for the Samsung smart hub for streaming).
I'd like to disable changing the source on the TV so they can't accidentally switch.
I am in the business of saving lives.
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
Do you mean, like Inputs? For example they have a antenna/cable option and they have hdmi1 and you don't want them to be able to switch off hdmi1 to the antenna? if that's what you mean, you might be able to disable certain things in the tv setup.
Yeah so I've got it set up for their new TV, but they're incapable of navigating two different remotes (one for the cable box, one for the Samsung smart hub for streaming).
I'd like to disable changing the source on the TV so they can't accidentally switch.
Do you mean, like Inputs? For example they have a antenna/cable option and they have hdmi1 and you don't want them to be able to switch off hdmi1 to the antenna? if that's what you mean, you might be able to disable certain things in the tv setup.
Yeah so I've got it set up for their new TV, but they're incapable of navigating two different remotes (one for the cable box, one for the Samsung smart hub for streaming).
I'd like to disable changing the source on the TV so they can't accidentally switch.
I can turn it off from auto running, but currently it's what it's being used for streaming.
They've been in their new apartment for less than forty eight hours and they've already "messed up" their TV and called me to go over and fix it and I'm going to lose my goddamn mind.
MegaMan001 on
I am in the business of saving lives.
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
Sure charter have the apps built into their cable box? I know Comcast does, and I always tell my clients to just use those. They won't look quite as good, but most people won't know difference and it just makes everything easier to use.
Sure charter have the apps built into their cable box? I know Comcast does, and I always tell my clients to just use those. They won't look quite as good, but most people won't know difference and it just makes everything easier to use.
Oh no way? I'll check
I am in the business of saving lives.
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
Yeah, looks like you hit the menu button and just move over to apps. Netflix is there at least, and it looks like Disney+ and Hulu should be as well.
Man, I hate Comcast, but at least their cable boxes have a bunch of apps and an easy to use voice remote.
Need a basic monitor for our home office. Reqs are USB-C upstream, 27-29+, and preferably a speaker. Currently eyeing the Dell 2723HC or 2722DC but those are really the first ones I came across. Also LG's comparison tool is worthless.
Ok TV thread, we are looking at getting a new TV in the next few weeks and I want to make sure we are making good purchasing decisions. Our home electronic ecosystem is mostly Samsung so that's the brand we are strongly leaning towards.
Right now we are looking at the two TVs below from Best Buy, the QN90A and QN85B. There isn't a big price difference between the two, and I'm inclined to get the QN85 since it is the newer model but otherwise they seem largely interchangeable spec-wise.
I doubt we will be unhappy with either but is there a reason to pick one over the other? Jumping $500 to get the QN90B seems like a bit much for what it offers.
We aren't especially worried about built in apps since we do most of that through our Comcast cable box.
ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
If you want to play a bit, Rtings has a good comparison tool you can mess with. The only concern I would have going to
With the Q90a is that there's only one HDMI 2.1 port. Everything else about it is pretty much a better grab.
About the apps: most of the apps you would want are built into the TV. The only major app I know Samsung is missing is PBS for some reason. Please don't use your cable box for apps, everything will look way better through native apps or an AppleTV/Roku.
Any recommendations on a good 2.1 HDMI cable? I need to get about a 20' cable to hook my PS5 up to my mounted LG C1 and I want to be able to use the 4K 120hz port. I tried looking up a few different ones on Amazon, but I honestly don't know what to look for to make sure that it is a quality cable or what is a reasonable price for one at that length.
Any recommendations on a good 2.1 HDMI cable? I need to get about a 20' cable to hook my PS5 up to my mounted LG C1 and I want to be able to use the 4K 120hz port. I tried looking up a few different ones on Amazon, but I honestly don't know what to look for to make sure that it is a quality cable or what is a reasonable price for one at that length.
If you want to go 20ft and still get 4k 120hz you're going to need an optical HDMI cable. I have the 33ft version of this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GM93YQQ?psc=1 and it works flawless to connect my PC to my C1 and get 4k 120hz.
RUIPRO also makes very good cables but they're very expensive. They do make a 20ft so you won't need to deal with 13ft of extra cable but it'll cost you 40% more than the Cable Matters.
Any recommendations on a good 2.1 HDMI cable? I need to get about a 20' cable to hook my PS5 up to my mounted LG C1 and I want to be able to use the 4K 120hz port. I tried looking up a few different ones on Amazon, but I honestly don't know what to look for to make sure that it is a quality cable or what is a reasonable price for one at that length.
So, I don't actually know if Cormac's correct here.
Mostly because I use a cheaper 30ft/9 HDMI 2.1 cable which I don't think is fiber optic (though the longer versions are?). And it's completely capable of taking a 2160p/120hz video output from an EVGA RTX 3080 TI to an LG C1 (65" version). I use it semi-regularly to send an HDR10-compatible 2160p/120hz feed over without assistance.
I'm sure the Cable Matter's product is just as good, or better (and it looks like it's thinner, which is probably easier to work with--the Highwings cable is thickly braided).
Also, and you probably realize this, but all 4 of the HDMI ports on the LG C1 are supposed to be HDMI 2.1 capable (it's a notable difference between the C1 and G1's main board, and LG's A/B series--which I think only have one--or Sony's own OLED televisions--which only have one). I think only one of them is eARC capable though.
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
That Highwings cable is weirding me out a bit. It says it's in wall rated, but it's braided so it can't be in wall rated. Odd.
Once you get to around 25', you're pushing the limits of passive HDMI. They say you can go 50', but I highly recommend not doing that since you're putting extra stress on the ports on both sides to power the cable. For 20', it probably doesn't matter, but it's close enough I might spend the money to get a good fiber cable.
For what it's worth, and it's not much, that Highwings cable is braided stiff enough you can actually fold it and prop it up against furniture, which is what I've been doing to fit it in more easily.
In any case, at this point, it's actually not hard for cable manufacturers to produce 30 ft (at least) cables that can reliably carry HDMI 2.1 at full "capacity." It doesn't mean there aren't better options out there, because there are, but if you don't care about wall rating, etc., which frankly most people don't in everyday use, you don't need to buy the expensive option. A cheaper one will almost certainly do what it advertises; it just isn't as good in other areas.
On the other hand, since my desk is now sitting right next to my PC, I might spend the money to get a thinner, and more easily manageable, shorter cable. I'm quite partial to IVANKY myself, since I'm not bothering to run anything through walls.
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
Yeah, mostly. Like I said, I worry about the power usage going through a longer cable. It's limited, but we've definitely seen some cheaper cables kill HDMI ports because they were very long and just pushing too much power to do the handshaking properly.
The length made me think it was going in the wall, which is where my other comment came from. It's not a matter of stiffness, it's whether the cable is sealed and oxygen free. Which, again, a braided cable can't be. Like we said, not an issue if you're not running it through the wall, and likely won't be anyway, but if there's a fire your insurance company will look for any excuse to deny a claim.
I'm more worried about the weight of the cable, and the hardware at either end, wearing out the HDMI ports, particularly in an LG television. Mostly because I've loosened my share HDMI television ports this way, and no one wants to take the back off their television to resolder/retighten a loose but working HDMI port. The cable is stiff enough that you can fold it so that the weight is against the wall, the furniture, or the floor, and above all not the port itself, which is the worst of a number of bad options.
No, it's absolutely not airtight and oxygen free. It wouldn't be able to hold its shape the way it can if it were. There are better options out there (though just running out of a PC, a stiff braid is very useful for that reason, even if EVGA's HDMI ports are exponentially more securely fixed than LG's).
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
I always ziptie cables to the mounting bracket so the bracket is holding most of the weight. But yeah, flexible cables are a must. So many of them are stiff as hell, and I'm always afraid I'm going to break them when I turn them sharply.
Fortunately, I can just origami my cables around my entertainment unit, so they generally rest quite lightly in the HDMI ports on my television unless someone disturbs them. The slack ones to my consoles, etc., do need velcro cable organization ties.
Thanks for all the feedback! At this point I'm looking for a cable that is long enough so I can play my PS5 on my new TV. It might go into the wall, but for now it will probably dangle for a bit. 20' might be a bit of overkill, but I wanted to make sure I gave myself enough room for error.
I've been in my new place for 3 months now and I'm itching to play Horizon and Elden Ring on my new set up. I'm in talks with an electrician to try and deal with cable management, but it's a bit of a headache.
I have my 77" LG C1 mounted above my fireplace using a MM340 MantleMount. It's a wall mount that has the TV on an arm that can be pulled down so you can have it at eye level when you watch and don't have to crane your neck. The problem with my set up is that the power cable is just long enough to plug into a surge protector on the floor in either the up or down position, but it's just dangling out for now. I reached out to the electrician about setting up an outlet next to the mount to hide that and route any other cables through the wall. The issue with that though is the section of the wall with the fireplace sticks out, which means the cables would have to go from a front wall to a side wall. They said they could do it, but it would be expensive and I would have to hire a handyman after to patch up the wall since they will just cut it open.
They also said they could do an external cable management kit for cheaper, but I don't know how that will solve the power cord length issue. I've reached out to them again to get clarification.
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
I'm guessing an extension cord and some wire moulding to cover it all up.
MonwynApathy's a tragedy, and boredom is a crime.A little bit of everything, all of the time.Registered Userregular
edited November 2022
What do you guys recommend for budget-ish sets? I'm finally replacing my old (old, like "only did 720p" old, "has a 2.5 inch bezel" old) chonk of a TV, but budget is kinda limited. Definitely under $500, under $400 preferred.
I'm currently (probably obviously) PC-only for gaming, so that's not a huge consideration ATM, but I'd like to future-proof if able.
Higher-quality panel is strongly preferred over a bigger screen; my old set is only like 36" IIRC and as far as I can tell they don't even make screens that small anymore, so basically everything will be an upgrade on that front anyway.
Initial research makes the TCL S546 look pretty decent, but to be honest I'm not entirely sure what sites to trust and it seems like it might be a deprecated model.
rtings is a great site for looking at reviews and how they break down the aspects of the TV. The trick is really, define how much you want to spend, then go browse some sites that sell things in that range and check what rtings has to say about each of the tvs in that range.
What do you guys recommend for budget-ish sets? I'm finally replacing my old (old, like "only did 720p" old, "has a 2.5 inch bezel" old) chonk of a TV, but budget is kinda limited. Definitely under $500, under $400 preferred.
I'm currently (probably obviously) PC-only for gaming, so that's not a huge consideration ATM, but I'd like to future-proof if able.
Higher-quality panel is strongly preferred over a bigger screen; my old set is only like 36" IIRC and as far as I can tell they don't even make screens that small anymore, so basically everything will be an upgrade on that front anyway.
Initial research makes the TCL S546 look pretty decent, but to be honest I'm not entirely sure what sites to trust and it seems like it might be a deprecated model.
Help!
Samsung makes a number of very good budget models, however their budget models are (perhaps ironically) still more boutique-priced option. Their LED televisions might be a bit out of your price point, if flexibility is less important than fitting one or two use cases very well.
Stay away from LG Nanocells. I say this as a multiple LG television owner, as previously established. Their pricing point is very similar to Samsungs, their LEDs TVs are just slightly worse in every conceivable way, on top of occasionally being priced higher. I would absolutely recommend a good TCL set over an LG Nanocell discounted to reach the same price point.
Fittingly enough, both these warnings are reflected on RTings.com.
Yeah seems like this is mostly just an increase in brightness generation. The MLA stuff seems to only be on the highest end models, which sucks since I was looking to downgrade from the 55" down to 49".
Yeah seems like this is mostly just an increase in brightness generation. The MLA stuff seems to only be on the highest end models, which sucks since I was looking to downgrade from the 55" down to 49".
Yeah I saw that, does look good. 2100 NITS, but only G series.
That completely wireless tv looks nifty, I'm curious how they handle the compression. Meant to read into that.
Yeah and the G series doesn't even come with a stand, so even a 1 to 1 replacement of my C6, I'd need to wall mount or find a stand. I guess I'll probably just stick with my C6 for this year and hope that the MLA stuff comes down to the C series next year.
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
The G series doesn't come with a stand at all, yeah. It's meant to be wall mounted with the included flush mount that.. honestly, it's a really smart design that I appreciate.
I haven’t seen much on the Samsung QD-Oled in relation to the issues the current gen had. I saw LG took a look at their OS, but Samsung’s was just as bad if not worse.
I guess we’ll wait for reviews. If they can get the color accuracy solved and streamline the OS, might look at those as a replacement.
It was funny to read the Samsung PR guy giving honest answers in relation to Micro Led. Basically they have the tech but QD-oled competes just fine with LG, they are in no rush to commercialize it.
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Most of the bigger games coming out aren't even consistently doing 4k/60, but the 120hz mode has been utilised by some as a way to split the difference between 30 and 60FPS modes with good results - running at 40FPS plays nicely with 120Hz screens, so the Spider-Men games, Ratchet and Clank and most recently Horizon have had this option added and a lot of people say it's great.
I'm still using a B7 and don't feel like I'm missing out on a heap by not having HDMI2.1, but if I was looking for a new TV for some reason I'd make sure it came with it.
PSN / Xbox / NNID: Fodder185
In Gears 5's case, it's just multiplayer; in Ori 2's case, the Switch version doesn't go over 1080p, and doesn't consistently reach 60 FPS either.
I can't think of any Playstation 5 games that do it, but they're probably out there. Otherwise, the norm is more like Mass Effect Legendary Edition which is 1440p at 120 hz. It's the most logical place to cut corners. It's pretty obvious, given the overwhelming availability of UHD screens (effectively every panel over a certain size is going to be 4K, because television manufacturers skipped 1440p, which the PS5 doesn't support anyway from what I recall) over 120 hz screens, support for 4K is basically the norm anyway. If Digital Foundry is to be believed, we're actually much closer to consistently reaching 2160p60 at the start of this generation than we were reaching 1080p60 when the Playstation 4 and Xbox One launched, even if we're still using upscaling in either case. 30 FPS released titles are generally an exception versus 60 FPS titles. Having played both on my C1, I'd say reaching an imperfect 2160p is more important than an imperfect 20hz in most cases (but not all; I played Psychonauts 2 at the lower resolution mode, and the Xbox Series has had VRR since launch), but that matters less because only 1% of televisions can probably reach 120 hz anyway. And the only person who can tell if you if you prefer an inconsistent 120 hz over a consistent 60 hz is yourself.
With that in mind, no, I don't think it's worth replacing a 6 or 7-series LG OLED with a C2 right now. Maybe if these weren't premium price sets (or if you can find a really great deal a C1 or C2--I got mine discounted by $600, for example), but generally no. I don't think HDMI 2.1 justifies it personally, and I'm probably a lot more exacting about these technical details than even the average console gamer.
Fake Edit: OK, upon checking the Resident Evil 2 and 3 Remake both have a 120 hz mode that actually aims for 2160p. That's true on both Xbox Series X and Playstation 5.
They make really feature rich TV sets that are great on paper, but I just don't trust them.
Blizzard: Pailryder#1101
GoG: https://www.gog.com/u/pailryder
Yeah so I've got it set up for their new TV, but they're incapable of navigating two different remotes (one for the cable box, one for the Samsung smart hub for streaming).
I'd like to disable changing the source on the TV so they can't accidentally switch.
Who do they have for cable?
They have Charter Spectrum.
I can turn it off from auto running, but currently it's what it's being used for streaming.
They've been in their new apartment for less than forty eight hours and they've already "messed up" their TV and called me to go over and fix it and I'm going to lose my goddamn mind.
Oh no way? I'll check
Man, I hate Comcast, but at least their cable boxes have a bunch of apps and an easy to use voice remote.
Need a basic monitor for our home office. Reqs are USB-C upstream, 27-29+, and preferably a speaker. Currently eyeing the Dell 2723HC or 2722DC but those are really the first ones I came across. Also LG's comparison tool is worthless.
Unfortunately there is no App option on the charter spectrum Arris box. I've got recently watched, favorites, settings, and video store.
Anyone know if there's a way to literally lock the source?
Right now we are looking at the two TVs below from Best Buy, the QN90A and QN85B. There isn't a big price difference between the two, and I'm inclined to get the QN85 since it is the newer model but otherwise they seem largely interchangeable spec-wise.
I doubt we will be unhappy with either but is there a reason to pick one over the other? Jumping $500 to get the QN90B seems like a bit much for what it offers.
We aren't especially worried about built in apps since we do most of that through our Comcast cable box.
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-85-class-qn90a-neo-qled-4k-uhd-smart-tizen-tv/6451484.p?skuId=6451484
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-85-class-qn85b-neo-qled-4k-smart-tizen-tv/6500300.p?skuId=6500300
With the Q90a is that there's only one HDMI 2.1 port. Everything else about it is pretty much a better grab.
About the apps: most of the apps you would want are built into the TV. The only major app I know Samsung is missing is PBS for some reason. Please don't use your cable box for apps, everything will look way better through native apps or an AppleTV/Roku.
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
If you want to go 20ft and still get 4k 120hz you're going to need an optical HDMI cable. I have the 33ft version of this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GM93YQQ?psc=1 and it works flawless to connect my PC to my C1 and get 4k 120hz.
RUIPRO also makes very good cables but they're very expensive. They do make a 20ft so you won't need to deal with 13ft of extra cable but it'll cost you 40% more than the Cable Matters.
So, I don't actually know if Cormac's correct here.
Mostly because I use a cheaper 30ft/9 HDMI 2.1 cable which I don't think is fiber optic (though the longer versions are?). And it's completely capable of taking a 2160p/120hz video output from an EVGA RTX 3080 TI to an LG C1 (65" version). I use it semi-regularly to send an HDR10-compatible 2160p/120hz feed over without assistance.
I'm sure the Cable Matter's product is just as good, or better (and it looks like it's thinner, which is probably easier to work with--the Highwings cable is thickly braided).
Also, and you probably realize this, but all 4 of the HDMI ports on the LG C1 are supposed to be HDMI 2.1 capable (it's a notable difference between the C1 and G1's main board, and LG's A/B series--which I think only have one--or Sony's own OLED televisions--which only have one). I think only one of them is eARC capable though.
Once you get to around 25', you're pushing the limits of passive HDMI. They say you can go 50', but I highly recommend not doing that since you're putting extra stress on the ports on both sides to power the cable. For 20', it probably doesn't matter, but it's close enough I might spend the money to get a good fiber cable.
In any case, at this point, it's actually not hard for cable manufacturers to produce 30 ft (at least) cables that can reliably carry HDMI 2.1 at full "capacity." It doesn't mean there aren't better options out there, because there are, but if you don't care about wall rating, etc., which frankly most people don't in everyday use, you don't need to buy the expensive option. A cheaper one will almost certainly do what it advertises; it just isn't as good in other areas.
On the other hand, since my desk is now sitting right next to my PC, I might spend the money to get a thinner, and more easily manageable, shorter cable. I'm quite partial to IVANKY myself, since I'm not bothering to run anything through walls.
The length made me think it was going in the wall, which is where my other comment came from. It's not a matter of stiffness, it's whether the cable is sealed and oxygen free. Which, again, a braided cable can't be. Like we said, not an issue if you're not running it through the wall, and likely won't be anyway, but if there's a fire your insurance company will look for any excuse to deny a claim.
No, it's absolutely not airtight and oxygen free. It wouldn't be able to hold its shape the way it can if it were. There are better options out there (though just running out of a PC, a stiff braid is very useful for that reason, even if EVGA's HDMI ports are exponentially more securely fixed than LG's).
I've been in my new place for 3 months now and I'm itching to play Horizon and Elden Ring on my new set up. I'm in talks with an electrician to try and deal with cable management, but it's a bit of a headache.
I have my 77" LG C1 mounted above my fireplace using a MM340 MantleMount. It's a wall mount that has the TV on an arm that can be pulled down so you can have it at eye level when you watch and don't have to crane your neck. The problem with my set up is that the power cable is just long enough to plug into a surge protector on the floor in either the up or down position, but it's just dangling out for now. I reached out to the electrician about setting up an outlet next to the mount to hide that and route any other cables through the wall. The issue with that though is the section of the wall with the fireplace sticks out, which means the cables would have to go from a front wall to a side wall. They said they could do it, but it would be expensive and I would have to hire a handyman after to patch up the wall since they will just cut it open.
They also said they could do an external cable management kit for cheaper, but I don't know how that will solve the power cord length issue. I've reached out to them again to get clarification.
I'm currently (probably obviously) PC-only for gaming, so that's not a huge consideration ATM, but I'd like to future-proof if able.
Higher-quality panel is strongly preferred over a bigger screen; my old set is only like 36" IIRC and as far as I can tell they don't even make screens that small anymore, so basically everything will be an upgrade on that front anyway.
Initial research makes the TCL S546 look pretty decent, but to be honest I'm not entirely sure what sites to trust and it seems like it might be a deprecated model.
Help!
Blizzard: Pailryder#1101
GoG: https://www.gog.com/u/pailryder
Samsung makes a number of very good budget models, however their budget models are (perhaps ironically) still more boutique-priced option. Their LED televisions might be a bit out of your price point, if flexibility is less important than fitting one or two use cases very well.
Stay away from LG Nanocells. I say this as a multiple LG television owner, as previously established. Their pricing point is very similar to Samsungs, their LEDs TVs are just slightly worse in every conceivable way, on top of occasionally being priced higher. I would absolutely recommend a good TCL set over an LG Nanocell discounted to reach the same price point.
Fittingly enough, both these warnings are reflected on RTings.com.
I’m going to grab a 77” C2 I think once Feb gets here and our bonus pays out.
I was secretly hoping for something 8k but the industry just doesn’t seem to be there yet, both on the hardware and the media side of things.
Yeah I saw that, does look good. 2100 NITS, but only G series.
That completely wireless tv looks nifty, I'm curious how they handle the compression. Meant to read into that.
I guess we’ll wait for reviews. If they can get the color accuracy solved and streamline the OS, might look at those as a replacement.
It was funny to read the Samsung PR guy giving honest answers in relation to Micro Led. Basically they have the tech but QD-oled competes just fine with LG, they are in no rush to commercialize it.