Thanks for the feedback, @Dayspring. Everyone else, you suck.
I washed with gryphonne sepia on the gold, at least once, usually 2-3 times. Should I go darker?
I think there is some confusion - from the pictures it didn't look washed because how uniform the gold looks. Typically, after I wash something, i'll go back and pick out the higher parts of the model, leaving the wash in the recesses. Usually it's just the base color of the metal prior to washing (but I usally get more fancy). This can be much more readily discernable with metallics, because of the hue and how they really reflect light.
For example, look at this model:
Look at the shield - the spear, the smoke/exhaust stacks, and the armored part above the head (neck?). Notice it appears darker, and then around the edges brighter -and that's any edge - the blade of the spear, the tubular parts of the smoke stacks, the hard edges of the shield and the rivets. That's just highlighting the models back with base metallics. It's easier for the human eye to differentiate the depth when you present a line along an edge, rather than leave it one color (washed or otherwise).
So if you take that model you have with the winged fancy thing on his back (feathers are easy to highlight), go back over it with your base metal you painted it with. Take care to stay out of the crevasses - maybe just hit the bottom half of each feather with your base color. Go slow, make sure it's watered down a wee bit, and see how that looks.
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tzeentchlingDoctor of RocksOaklandRegistered Userregular
Also, Gryphonne Sepia is a very yellow-ish wash, and for gold that's not going to darken it that much to give it depth. I'd definitely consider washing with something darker, Devlin Mud or Ogrun Flesh.
Also, Gryphonne Sepia is a very yellow-ish wash, and for gold that's not going to darken it that much to give it depth. I'd definitely consider washing with something darker, Devlin Mud or Ogrun Flesh.
R.I.P. Devlan Mud - Army Painter Strong Tone will also substiutue nicely for a good gold wash (it's a little bit darker than Devlan though). I also recommend Secret Weapon Armor Wash - I use the hell out of it for all my metallics. Love it. P3 Armor wash is also decent!
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valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
@3lwop0 - With the gold I was using the wash primarily to make the gold darker, which is why I didn't highlight it. I wanted a more subdued look, but you're right, I should still be doing something to bring out the edges.
@tzeentchling - Devlan mud was too dark, I can't remember how Ogryn Flesh affected it, I'll take another look with that. I remember using all 3 and thinking Gryphonne got it the closest to the gold/bronze look I was going for.
My aim was to make the gold look like it was dulling down and becoming more of a brass color.
How did the two faces turn out? The standard bearer was really half-assed, but I actually tried on the mace.
I thought the freehand on the banner was really clean - well done! The mace wielders face looks very space-marine dogged and chiseled well done again! You do create a bigger contrast between shadow/recess and highlight - but there ain't nothin' wrong with that man.
Faces are tough man. Over black primer, it can be nuts to go from a bright pink hue to several layers without looking chalky. I used to base coat a thicker pink hue, like Tallarn Flesh, wash it, and then go over it with a few other flesh tones to bring out the highlights. It always came out chalky.
If you have the means, I suggest VMC: Glaze Medium. I wish I had known about it when I started hobbying.I started useing Vallejo Model Glaze Medium to dillute my flesh tones with, and the chalkiness went away, or at least, you gotta work hard to mess it up. I use a 1:1 ratio, and it's been crazy good ever since.
Because I'm artistically challenged, I don't ever do any mixing, except on things I'll only ever paint once (Like the leaves on the EC, I mixed green and white when the thread told me to highlight them).
I do a lot of thin paints over black when doing white/flesh. Generally do like you said and start with a darker shade, then use a lighter shade on top. Still get chalkiness now and then, but I'm only painting up to a table top standard.
The bottom freehand I used a pencil and kinda made a frame to paint into, the top I tried to just wing it and it didn't turn out nearly as well. Being smaller and doing gold on red also were factors.
I work with GW paints, watered down out of the pot and it works alright. I'll never be as good as most of the guys in this thread, which is fine by me, I'm happy with what I achieved here, I just wanna be able to do it faster. Just takes practice and knowing exactly how to achieve the colors you want. You can see the difference in the robe shading between models as I took time off between models and forgot exactly what I did to achieve the shading I got on each one.
I found that using dwarf flesh as a base and elf flesh as a highlight was wayyyyy too drastic of a difference, do you do 1:1 mixes for skin highlights?
Everyday I wake up is the worst day of my life.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
For you I'd say paint whatever Tallarn Flesh is called now, wash with flesh wash, layer the base flesh color again and maybe add a little bone for the final highlight.
Though if I were painting the flesh on you "totally not chaos-tainted, we swear for reals" templars I would skip warm flesh paints entirely and go dheneb stone -> layer 1:1 dheneb stone:white -> highlight white -> slather on flesh wash
Each to thier own man - you paint just fine. Heck of a lot better than when I started out hobbying, that's for sure.
For the gold on red, sometimes it's ideal to base a darker color underneath the gold to help it blend into the red (and give the gold a solid base). Most folks use a darker brown. Draw the symbol out with base brown, gold over the brown - worth a shot one day if you wanna try it and see if you like it.
Whoo, yeah, Dwarf to Elf is a big jump flesh tone wise. Using the colors you listed and keeping it simple - typically what I would do is base Dwarf - Hit it with some Fleshwash, let it dry, and then go over it again with dwarf flesh, but staying out of the recesses (eyes, chin, nose, cheeks, brow, ears, etc.,). Then I’ll mix up something a shade brighter - in your case, a simple 1:1 Dwarf/Elf mix, add about 50% water, and then paint only the prominent parts of the face. To wit, the nose, cheeks, usually the tops of the ears, the brow, and the most prominent part of the chin are what you look for, maybe the scars if they’re raised scars. If you're feeling saucy, maybe dab some white on the eyes; hit it with a micron pen (.5). That's it. Keep it watered down so it's not chalky looking, and use multiple thin coats if it's clear one ain't hackin' it. Just be patient and let the layers dry. That's it, easy peasy.
The cheek creases, the area around the eyes (like a racoon almost), the divet in the chin - those areas were left the origional washed color. Everything else I took up with a little fancier version of what I just wrote. Since most space marines are bald, this ain't the best example, but hopefully it conveys the idea.
I phoned in the hair on this guy. I just couldn't handle his flowing locks, feathered and lethal.
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valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
How do you take pictures that are so close you can see the eyes? I have a macro setting on my camera, but it just won't focus when I try to get that up close.
Take the picture from further away and crop it, or get a SLR and an actual macro lens. Lenses have a minimum physical distance that they can focus from.
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valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
Yeah. I'll have to stick to the camera already paid for. Unfortunately. Guess I'll just have to keep making do. lol
How do you take pictures that are so close you can see the eyes? I have a macro setting on my camera, but it just won't focus when I try to get that up close.
Believe it or not, I use my iPad mini. I shit you not.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Oof, that's awesome! The colouring and details are fantastic, but looks like it needs a hit of matte. I love infinity because of models and paintjobs like that. I hate infinity because of some of it's other models though.
re: washing, I've been washing the red cloaks on Tox's Sternguard with purple.
I will not admit how much of this is due to artistic choice and how much of it is my primal desire to use the colour purple on everything i paint, ever.
Somehow part of the post was eaten by the interwebs and only the pictures got through. Been a while since I've posted here. Been a while since I've done anything related to miniature painting really. These threads were always nice to keep me motivated, so now that I have the time for it I'm going to be painting and posting.
That there Ariadna SAS was my first attempt at not using washes or metallics, I'm very happy with the result.
@McGibs - I did a double coat of Vallejo Matte Varnish, brush on. It only gets that bit of shine when you point a bright light at it from about 15cm, can't really notice it on the table.
And I used to wash the red on my Orkz with purple too.
Bonus pic
Just need to slap on some decals and these gents are ready to pound some 15mm comunists
It Burns on
The slowest painter. Ever.
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valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
One of the first minis I ever painted was a figure I used for D&D back in the early 90's. He was a knight with a shield, and he looked like one of those classic knights with the flat-topped helm. I did him in a quartered yellow and purple scheme and to this day I love that look. I painted a Marienberger warband for Mordheim in the same scheme. Well, mostly painted them. I still have three figures left to go. I should post them someday.
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
I'm bored at work, so I'm thinking about painting my stormtalon. I won't be starting on it soon, since I'd liek to finish a bike squad and two tac squads, not to mention these never-ending terminators I've been on forever. Forever. Getting thru these five models is going to induce celebratory events.
Anyone here who has painted a stormtalon, how did you do the frame of the window. I can't imagine my hand is steady enough not to get paint all over the actual window panes. And it seems too tiny to tape up.
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Why would it be too tiny to tape?
You might want some narrower than normal masking tape (Tamiya makes the one I use) but that's optional really, as long as you have a sufficiently sharp knife to cut the tape to fit. I like a #10A scalpel blade, myself.
Just press the tape into the recesses with the back of the blade then gently cut down into the crease. The sharper the blade the less pressure will be needed so the easier it is to do without screwing up and scratching the "glass" panels.
Anyone here who has painted a stormtalon, how did you do the frame of the window. I can't imagine my hand is steady enough not to get paint all over the actual window panes. And it seems too tiny to tape up.
Actually, Tamiya makes 10mm masking tape. I use it for my 15mm Flames of War stuff, but in a pinch it would do fine on a cockpit. You can also use regular painters tape and an exacto knife - 28mm isn't as unforgiving as a 15mm model.
You'd think they'd attempt to get everyone who pledged the first time their stuff before launching into a second...
According to their Kickstarter update they just did finish sending out consumer orders! If they're running a second one then I assume this must have worked out as profitable. I was mildly worried they'd cock up the maths and bankrupt themselves.
Anyone here who has painted a stormtalon, how did you do the frame of the window. I can't imagine my hand is steady enough not to get paint all over the actual window panes. And it seems too tiny to tape up.
Actually, Tamiya makes 10mm masking tape. I use it for my 15mm Flames of War stuff, but in a pinch it would do fine on a cockpit. You can also use regular painters tape and an exacto knife - 28mm isn't as unforgiving as a 15mm model.
Tri-Optimum reminds you that there are only one-hundred-sixty-three shopping days until Christmas. Just 1 extra work cycle twice a week will give you the spending money you need to make this holiday a very special one.
Anyone here who has painted a stormtalon, how did you do the frame of the window. I can't imagine my hand is steady enough not to get paint all over the actual window panes. And it seems too tiny to tape up.
Actually, Tamiya makes 10mm masking tape. I use it for my 15mm Flames of War stuff, but in a pinch it would do fine on a cockpit. You can also use regular painters tape and an exacto knife - 28mm isn't as unforgiving as a 15mm model.
Posts
Also you used a bit from Celestine. Anything related to her can choke to death on a mountain of cocks.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Sounds like someone's butthurt.
I think there is some confusion - from the pictures it didn't look washed because how uniform the gold looks. Typically, after I wash something, i'll go back and pick out the higher parts of the model, leaving the wash in the recesses. Usually it's just the base color of the metal prior to washing (but I usally get more fancy). This can be much more readily discernable with metallics, because of the hue and how they really reflect light.
For example, look at this model:
Look at the shield - the spear, the smoke/exhaust stacks, and the armored part above the head (neck?). Notice it appears darker, and then around the edges brighter -and that's any edge - the blade of the spear, the tubular parts of the smoke stacks, the hard edges of the shield and the rivets. That's just highlighting the models back with base metallics. It's easier for the human eye to differentiate the depth when you present a line along an edge, rather than leave it one color (washed or otherwise).
So if you take that model you have with the winged fancy thing on his back (feathers are easy to highlight), go back over it with your base metal you painted it with. Take care to stay out of the crevasses - maybe just hit the bottom half of each feather with your base color. Go slow, make sure it's watered down a wee bit, and see how that looks.
R.I.P. Devlan Mud - Army Painter Strong Tone will also substiutue nicely for a good gold wash (it's a little bit darker than Devlan though). I also recommend Secret Weapon Armor Wash - I use the hell out of it for all my metallics. Love it. P3 Armor wash is also decent!
Celestine kicked his puppy when he was a child.
@tzeentchling - Devlan mud was too dark, I can't remember how Ogryn Flesh affected it, I'll take another look with that. I remember using all 3 and thinking Gryphonne got it the closest to the gold/bronze look I was going for.
My aim was to make the gold look like it was dulling down and becoming more of a brass color.
How did the two faces turn out? The standard bearer was really half-assed, but I actually tried on the mace.
How about the freehand banner?
Faces are tough man. Over black primer, it can be nuts to go from a bright pink hue to several layers without looking chalky. I used to base coat a thicker pink hue, like Tallarn Flesh, wash it, and then go over it with a few other flesh tones to bring out the highlights. It always came out chalky.
If you have the means, I suggest VMC: Glaze Medium. I wish I had known about it when I started hobbying.I started useing Vallejo Model Glaze Medium to dillute my flesh tones with, and the chalkiness went away, or at least, you gotta work hard to mess it up. I use a 1:1 ratio, and it's been crazy good ever since.
I do a lot of thin paints over black when doing white/flesh. Generally do like you said and start with a darker shade, then use a lighter shade on top. Still get chalkiness now and then, but I'm only painting up to a table top standard.
The bottom freehand I used a pencil and kinda made a frame to paint into, the top I tried to just wing it and it didn't turn out nearly as well. Being smaller and doing gold on red also were factors.
I work with GW paints, watered down out of the pot and it works alright. I'll never be as good as most of the guys in this thread, which is fine by me, I'm happy with what I achieved here, I just wanna be able to do it faster. Just takes practice and knowing exactly how to achieve the colors you want. You can see the difference in the robe shading between models as I took time off between models and forgot exactly what I did to achieve the shading I got on each one.
I found that using dwarf flesh as a base and elf flesh as a highlight was wayyyyy too drastic of a difference, do you do 1:1 mixes for skin highlights?
Though if I were painting the flesh on you "totally not chaos-tainted, we swear for reals" templars I would skip warm flesh paints entirely and go dheneb stone -> layer 1:1 dheneb stone:white -> highlight white -> slather on flesh wash
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
For the gold on red, sometimes it's ideal to base a darker color underneath the gold to help it blend into the red (and give the gold a solid base). Most folks use a darker brown. Draw the symbol out with base brown, gold over the brown - worth a shot one day if you wanna try it and see if you like it.
Whoo, yeah, Dwarf to Elf is a big jump flesh tone wise. Using the colors you listed and keeping it simple - typically what I would do is base Dwarf - Hit it with some Fleshwash, let it dry, and then go over it again with dwarf flesh, but staying out of the recesses (eyes, chin, nose, cheeks, brow, ears, etc.,). Then I’ll mix up something a shade brighter - in your case, a simple 1:1 Dwarf/Elf mix, add about 50% water, and then paint only the prominent parts of the face. To wit, the nose, cheeks, usually the tops of the ears, the brow, and the most prominent part of the chin are what you look for, maybe the scars if they’re raised scars. If you're feeling saucy, maybe dab some white on the eyes; hit it with a micron pen (.5). That's it. Keep it watered down so it's not chalky looking, and use multiple thin coats if it's clear one ain't hackin' it. Just be patient and let the layers dry. That's it, easy peasy.
The cheek creases, the area around the eyes (like a racoon almost), the divet in the chin - those areas were left the origional washed color. Everything else I took up with a little fancier version of what I just wrote. Since most space marines are bald, this ain't the best example, but hopefully it conveys the idea.
I phoned in the hair on this guy. I just couldn't handle his flowing locks, feathered and lethal.
I frequently use purple wash on green areas.
Believe it or not, I use my iPad mini. I shit you not.
Also good? Blue wash on red.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I will not admit how much of this is due to artistic choice and how much of it is my primal desire to use the colour purple on everything i paint, ever.
Somehow part of the post was eaten by the interwebs and only the pictures got through. Been a while since I've posted here. Been a while since I've done anything related to miniature painting really. These threads were always nice to keep me motivated, so now that I have the time for it I'm going to be painting and posting.
That there Ariadna SAS was my first attempt at not using washes or metallics, I'm very happy with the result.
@McGibs - I did a double coat of Vallejo Matte Varnish, brush on. It only gets that bit of shine when you point a bright light at it from about 15cm, can't really notice it on the table.
And I used to wash the red on my Orkz with purple too.
Bonus pic
Just need to slap on some decals and these gents are ready to pound some 15mm comunists
Link
Now I'm thinking I should have painted him orange...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Beachhead_G.I._Joe.png
Anyone here who has painted a stormtalon, how did you do the frame of the window. I can't imagine my hand is steady enough not to get paint all over the actual window panes. And it seems too tiny to tape up.
You might want some narrower than normal masking tape (Tamiya makes the one I use) but that's optional really, as long as you have a sufficiently sharp knife to cut the tape to fit. I like a #10A scalpel blade, myself.
Just press the tape into the recesses with the back of the blade then gently cut down into the crease. The sharper the blade the less pressure will be needed so the easier it is to do without screwing up and scratching the "glass" panels.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Actually, Tamiya makes 10mm masking tape. I use it for my 15mm Flames of War stuff, but in a pinch it would do fine on a cockpit. You can also use regular painters tape and an exacto knife - 28mm isn't as unforgiving as a 15mm model.
According to their Kickstarter update they just did finish sending out consumer orders! If they're running a second one then I assume this must have worked out as profitable. I was mildly worried they'd cock up the maths and bankrupt themselves.
Nothing is too small to tape when you have 0.4mm Masking Tape.
How does someone use that? You'd need the hands of a 4 year old, and dexterity of Liberace.