After an break from painting enforced by the fact that I was in Florida for 5 weeks I've finally got started again. Here are some Ethiopian officers I'm working on.
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(Please do not gift. My game bank is already full.)
Quick question, I am working on a large mini, and parts of it, like a tile floor, need to be "shiny". I don't think I can find brush on gloss varnish for just that part, and I dont want the whole mini to be shiny. So I am saying spray gloss varnish on the whole thing is out. I am lazy enough that I dont want to tape up the mini for partial gloss and dullcoat sprayings either.
Would clear nail polish work for this?
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Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
What do you mean you can't find brush-on gloss varnish?
Vallejo and Tamiya both sell dropper bottles/pots of whatever varnish style you need.
What do you mean you can't find brush-on gloss varnish?
Vallejo and Tamiya both sell dropper bottles/pots of whatever varnish style you need.
"I don't feel like waiting on shipping and paying 6$ shipping for a 3$ order when I could go out and get an alternative in 5 minutes" Is what I mean
fake edit: ok amazon has brush gloss varnish for 6$ prime, but still.
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Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
On the one hand, brush on varnish is useful to have in general. On the other, if I was working on a large model, I'd rather use what I consider to be the appropriate tools, rather than ad hoc something and hope for the best. If the nail polish ends up not working as desired, was it worth the trade off of not waiting until Tuesday for an Amazon order to show up?
Wow I didn't expect such a devisive response and figured someone here had used it before. I have flat sealer from reaper that I normally use. I'll order the gloss varnish off Amazon, thanks for the advice everyone!
Is there no arts and crafts store by you? Michaels, Hobby Lobby, etc? They will have plenty of brush on gloss varnish available for instant purchase. Liquitex is the biggest name.
why are you smelling it?
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
What do you mean you can't find brush-on gloss varnish?
Vallejo and Tamiya both sell dropper bottles/pots of whatever varnish style you need.
"I don't feel like waiting on shipping and paying 6$ shipping for a 3$ order when I could go out and get an alternative in 5 minutes" Is what I mean
fake edit: ok amazon has brush gloss varnish for 6$ prime, but still.
Alternatively, do what I have done for "shiny" gems:
Apply gloss medium over top of your varnish. You just add sheen. Can find it at any art store and shouldn't be any more expensive.
I'm about to tackle assembling and painting the watcher from Kingdom Death Monster. I'm in the planning stage, and what im generally shooting for is that his body will be that of a faded dark grey cloak. This will kinda be the first time ive tried to layer colors to produce a faded effect.
So I started a few test paints on some cardboard just to see how the colors work.
I did a square of chaos black, then on top of it, some Eshin grey, followed by Mechanicus standard grey.
I also did a square where i started with eshin, then just went to mechanicus.
Both of these turned out pretty much the same. is mechanicus, being a base paint not the correct color to use if im trying to lighten the grey just a bit? Can i just water it so i get more of a shade instead?
Next, I picked up a Nihilakh Oxide technical paint because i thought it might look good as the inside of his hood, glowing blue, but my samples painted on top of the grey of my cardboard tests show its a bit too translucent. Should i do the inside with something like skink blue or Imrik blue (dry paints), then do the Nihilakh over top of that for a more irridecent color?
Heres kind of what im shooting for with different color schemes.
Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Yeah, the whole point of the citadel base range is that it's opaque and heavily pigmented. You want layers for, well, layering.
Also, Nihilakh Oxide is weird; it's intended for creating verdigris effects on weathered copper (and its alloys) rather than as a regular paint so it tends to draw the pigment it contains into recesses and generally behaves opposite to how you want a paint to. GW made a whole series of videos about their technical range, here's the one for NO: https://youtu.be/yw3iLEW1P2o
For the grey/black i'd suggest starting with a lighter grey and then using washes to make it darker.
I'm not sure how much detail is on the mini you are talking about though, if there are huge flat areas washes are not so good, but assuming there are folds and texture etc washes are a pretty newbie friendly technique that give nice results
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
I have seen Nihilakh Oxide used to good effect in GW's painting videos on youtube. Duncan uses it on the ghosts in the Nagash videos and I think maybe that's what you're after? You may want to check those out.
When it comes to painting cloaks I'm a big fan of putting down the base color then mixing in black in very thin layers to do shading then doing the same thing using white for the highlights. That technique pretty much demands a wet palette though. Washes are good for shading especially if you're new at painting but I find that big, flowy cloaks tend to look like ass when shaded with a wash but that's just my opinion.
Little confused...whats the difference between 'very thin layers' and a wash from your description. wouldnt you have to water down the paint to produce your thin layers?
Washes are still MUCH thinner than anything you'd use for normal layering. They also contain flow improvers, which is supposed to cause them to flow into the recesses rather than stick to the surface evenly.
(bear in mind, a little bit of flow improver also helps with basecoating, as it will allow for an even coverage).
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ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
edited March 2016
The consistency, basically. "Very thin layers" are still thicker than washes. You still use water or medium to thin it down, you just don't use as much.
Extreaminatus on
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Little confused...whats the difference between 'very thin layers' and a wash from your description. wouldnt you have to water down the paint to produce your thin layers?
Application, consistency, pigment type, usually.
Washes are close to (or literally are) inks like from a fountain pen; very free flowing, designed to pool in recesses and, if not managed right, prone to leaving 'tide lines' on the higher surfaces. You generally use a wash by just covering the whole surface and letting capillary action do the rest.
Very thin layers on the other hand are, indeed, thinned paint, but they are still paint and, ideally, go where they are put and stay there instead of flowing off the curves. More time consuming and difficult to use than a wash by far but will produce a more controlled result.
Washes are still MUCH thinner than anything you'd use for normal layering. They also contain flow improvers, which is supposed to cause them to flow into the recesses rather than stick to the surface evenly.
(bear in mind, a little bit of flow improver also helps with basecoating, as it will allow for an even coverage).
The consistency, basically. "Very thin layers" are still thicker than washes. You still use water or medium to thin it down, you just don't use as much.
Little confused...whats the difference between 'very thin layers' and a wash from your description. wouldnt you have to water down the paint to produce your thin layers?
Application, consistency, pigment type, usually.
Washes are close to (or literally are) inks like from a fountain pen; very free flowing, designed to pool in recesses and, if not managed right, prone to leaving 'tide lines' on the higher surfaces. You generally use a wash by just covering the whole surface and letting capillary action do the rest.
Very thin layers on the other hand are, indeed, thinned paint, but they are still paint and, ideally, go where they are put and stay there instead of flowing off the curves. More time consuming and difficult to use than a wash by far but will produce a more controlled result.
Anyone have tips on making realistic looking skin tones? I'm using the Reaper Tanned Skin triad, but on wide pieces (Kingdom Death Lady Legs (so much flat space)) I can not get things to blend nicely and not look stupid. Regions with depth I can do a decent job on, these flat spaces are just driving me nuts.
If, if Reagan played disco He'd shoot it to shit You can't disco in Jackboots
Anyone have tips on making realistic looking skin tones? I'm using the Reaper Tanned Skin triad, but on wide pieces (Kingdom Death Lady Legs (so much flat space)) I can not get things to blend nicely and not look stupid. Regions with depth I can do a decent job on, these flat spaces are just driving me nuts.
Koreg, I'm having similar issues, and I've found a few youtube videos that might help you, just search for 'painting flesh' and you should find a few. The good thing about KDM tho, is that you arent really limited in flesh tones. I have a blue skinned survivor, etc.
So i was watching some Games workshop youtube videos last night on the technical paints.
The Agrellian Earth /Martian Ironearth paint that produces a 'cracked ground' look is pretty awesome. What i was wondering is how well it would hold up and look if painted on the actual model instead of just on the base? I was thinking it might give a cool textured look on some of the KDM monsters but if its really fragile after it dries, then that wouldnt work well.
So i was watching some Games workshop youtube videos last night on the technical paints.
The Agrellian Earth /Martian Ironearth paint that produces a 'cracked ground' look is pretty awesome. What i was wondering is how well it would hold up and look if painted on the actual model instead of just on the base? I was thinking it might give a cool textured look on some of the KDM monsters but if its really fragile after it dries, then that wouldnt work well.
Crackle paint can be used on models in this way to great effect.
Also in regard to it becoming fragile, you could apply the crackle paint before priming, or seal it with varnish before continuing on.
I'm planning to use a combination of crackle paint and Vallejo's 'Black Lava' texture paint to give my future Renegade and Nurgle forces a more dilapidated look.
Kneel on
Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
awesome. Now i gotta find some i can pick up on the way home so i can play with it. I was at a games workshop store across town over the weekend and picked up a lot of paint, but i didnt know what this one did at the time so didnt buy it. Don't think the hobby stores nearby have all the technicals.
That's grimy! Great job on keeping it 100% Nurgle and yet not stupidly overdone, like people often do.
Meanwhile, I'm on the home stretch as well. This thing took about twice as much time as I expected... Also my lovely client glued the pants backwards and the feet are on the wrong sides...
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Anyway, pretty happy with how this guy is turning out:
:
(Please do not gift. My game bank is already full.)
Would clear nail polish work for this?
Vallejo and Tamiya both sell dropper bottles/pots of whatever varnish style you need.
"I don't feel like waiting on shipping and paying 6$ shipping for a 3$ order when I could go out and get an alternative in 5 minutes" Is what I mean
fake edit: ok amazon has brush gloss varnish for 6$ prime, but still.
Alternatively, do what I have done for "shiny" gems:
Apply gloss medium over top of your varnish. You just add sheen. Can find it at any art store and shouldn't be any more expensive.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
I'll start basecoating the trim with Warplock Bronze next.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
I'm about to tackle assembling and painting the watcher from Kingdom Death Monster. I'm in the planning stage, and what im generally shooting for is that his body will be that of a faded dark grey cloak. This will kinda be the first time ive tried to layer colors to produce a faded effect.
So I started a few test paints on some cardboard just to see how the colors work.
I did a square of chaos black, then on top of it, some Eshin grey, followed by Mechanicus standard grey.
I also did a square where i started with eshin, then just went to mechanicus.
Both of these turned out pretty much the same. is mechanicus, being a base paint not the correct color to use if im trying to lighten the grey just a bit? Can i just water it so i get more of a shade instead?
Next, I picked up a Nihilakh Oxide technical paint because i thought it might look good as the inside of his hood, glowing blue, but my samples painted on top of the grey of my cardboard tests show its a bit too translucent. Should i do the inside with something like skink blue or Imrik blue (dry paints), then do the Nihilakh over top of that for a more irridecent color?
Heres kind of what im shooting for with different color schemes.
http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/2871146/kingdom-death-monster?size=medium
Thanks for your advice.
Also, Nihilakh Oxide is weird; it's intended for creating verdigris effects on weathered copper (and its alloys) rather than as a regular paint so it tends to draw the pigment it contains into recesses and generally behaves opposite to how you want a paint to. GW made a whole series of videos about their technical range, here's the one for NO:
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
I'm not sure how much detail is on the mini you are talking about though, if there are huge flat areas washes are not so good, but assuming there are folds and texture etc washes are a pretty newbie friendly technique that give nice results
When it comes to painting cloaks I'm a big fan of putting down the base color then mixing in black in very thin layers to do shading then doing the same thing using white for the highlights. That technique pretty much demands a wet palette though. Washes are good for shading especially if you're new at painting but I find that big, flowy cloaks tend to look like ass when shaded with a wash but that's just my opinion.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
(bear in mind, a little bit of flow improver also helps with basecoating, as it will allow for an even coverage).
Washes are close to (or literally are) inks like from a fountain pen; very free flowing, designed to pool in recesses and, if not managed right, prone to leaving 'tide lines' on the higher surfaces. You generally use a wash by just covering the whole surface and letting capillary action do the rest.
Very thin layers on the other hand are, indeed, thinned paint, but they are still paint and, ideally, go where they are put and stay there instead of flowing off the curves. More time consuming and difficult to use than a wash by far but will produce a more controlled result.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Painter hive-mind activated.
Excuse it for making me angry because it's so high? No.
EDIT: Also that color scheme is fucking amazeballs.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Koreg, I'm having similar issues, and I've found a few youtube videos that might help you, just search for 'painting flesh' and you should find a few. The good thing about KDM tho, is that you arent really limited in flesh tones. I have a blue skinned survivor, etc.
The Agrellian Earth /Martian Ironearth paint that produces a 'cracked ground' look is pretty awesome. What i was wondering is how well it would hold up and look if painted on the actual model instead of just on the base? I was thinking it might give a cool textured look on some of the KDM monsters but if its really fragile after it dries, then that wouldnt work well.
Crackle paint can be used on models in this way to great effect.
EDIT: Like so
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
I'm planning to use a combination of crackle paint and Vallejo's 'Black Lava' texture paint to give my future Renegade and Nurgle forces a more dilapidated look.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Meanwhile, I'm on the home stretch as well. This thing took about twice as much time as I expected... Also my lovely client glued the pants backwards and the feet are on the wrong sides...