So, I'm terrible at painting in that all I really do is black base, dark colour, wash and highlight and it usually looks bad.
But how do you get skin, blacks and white's to work out? Because working on Infinity Nomad's stuff those tones come up alot and feel hard to make actually work or look good.
1 basecoat with an Ivory/Sand/"bleached bone" "Jack bone" or whatever. DON'T use white.
2 wash with Army Painter Flesh wash.
3 that's it
4 no, I'm serious, that's all
Try and make it white marble similar to the black marble? Either that or some sort of insignia, the lack of features on the shoulder draws attention from all the other detailed areas
FC: 1435-5383-0883
+1
Options
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Well it's going to get a black marking, this is just WIP. I would most likely also add some gray veins to the white to make it look like marble.
Other consideration: what about warm, cream marble instead of cold white? Though I feel like doing that would demand cold metal trim.
Further consideration: the shoulder pad color will also be used for much of the armor for the officers.
So I have just started working on the Lonely tree. This is easily the biggest model I have worked on, and I will be doing it only with brushes. Any advice on how to work on it?
I am trying to make it look like a sycamore in the fall. So the trunk will go from a brown to bone white, and the leaves will fade from a nice red to a light green. Hopefully I can pull off the color transitions.
If, if Reagan played disco He'd shoot it to shit You can't disco in Jackboots
FINALLY got these guys finished. I've been so busy with work, and a potential move... Pretty happy with the end result.
Just need to finish up a couple bases.
I didn't realize painting miniatures involved eating so much paint. One of the guys on the show used his tongue to thin the paint on the brush, and the other wanted to use his tongue to make the brush a finer point
I didn't realize painting miniatures involved eating so much paint. One of the guys on the show used his tongue to thin the paint on the brush, and the other wanted to use his tongue to make the brush a finer point
Using your lips to keep a point on your brush after cleaning is completely normal, one of the best ways to do it.
Putting paint straight into your mouth a little less so.
All my brushes are so tattered none of it matters to me anyway
This happens when you are too rough with your brush, or if you put too much paint on the brush and it gets into the metal ferrule at the top of the bristles. Once paint gets in there it's pretty much impossible to clean out. Once it dries your bristles will start fraying.
It also allows you to airbrush a shadow from below without the base getting in the way. There are multiple benefits and I heartily recommend this method. Bear in mind, normal wine corks are too narrow for me (they lose balance easily). These are 25mm in diameter (1").
+1
Options
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
It also allows you to airbrush a shadow from below without the base getting in the way. There are multiple benefits and I heartily recommend this method. Bear in mind, normal wine corks are too narrow for me (they lose balance easily). These are 25mm in diameter (1").
That's... pretty much it. After applying the dominant base colour, do a zenithal highlight (airbrush a brighter colour from above), and then airbrush a darker colour from below.
I think I've seen some videos where they would do this, but it's bedtime for me now, so I won't be of much help. If you're not sure what I mean, I'll try to do a demonstration tomorrow.
All my brushes are so tattered none of it matters to me anyway
This happens when you are too rough with your brush, or if you put too much paint on the brush and it gets into the metal ferrule at the top of the bristles. Once paint gets in there it's pretty much impossible to clean out. Once it dries your bristles will start fraying.
1 basecoat with an Ivory/Sand/"bleached bone" "Jack bone" or whatever. DON'T use white.
2 wash with Army Painter Flesh wash.
3 that's it
4 no, I'm serious, that's all
Ok, I just plain cannot do normal skin tones on minis and actively avoid human minis/minis with faces. I will try this and report back. I have bleached bone and flesh wash on hand I believe.
So I got to start playing D&D again, and have a character that is a wererat. We hit a point in the campaign and the DM said the sweetest words he can utter:
"You guys get to choose your mount as a reward, go hog wild flavor wise"
me: "I want a giant ginger chef that I ride under the cap of"
Him:"*sigh* ok"
me: *runs off to the pile of reaper minis*
So I took this mini (not my paint)
And got converting. he would need a pan, chef hat, accrutiments and a shiny kitchen tile floor. This is my first attempt at doing more with greenstuff than filling gaps. Also as stated above I'm terrible with skin tones, along with large models, so this thing was going to be quite the challenge. I am really happy with how it turned out.
Final product:
So the skin tone is so light that its actually really hard to get it with its shading in pictures, which I think means it came out well?
Posts
But how do you get skin, blacks and white's to work out? Because working on Infinity Nomad's stuff those tones come up alot and feel hard to make actually work or look good.
1 basecoat with an Ivory/Sand/"bleached bone" "Jack bone" or whatever. DON'T use white.
2 wash with Army Painter Flesh wash.
3 that's it
4 no, I'm serious, that's all
proof here: http://goblinart.pl/mps/photos/lvl1/018-scouts.jpg
Keep the white and gold or switch it up for silver (or brass) and some other color? The green marble is staying.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
that looks awesome
Other consideration: what about warm, cream marble instead of cold white? Though I feel like doing that would demand cold metal trim.
Further consideration: the shoulder pad color will also be used for much of the armor for the officers.
Damn, there's a lot of potential here.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Are you a wizard
I am trying to make it look like a sycamore in the fall. So the trunk will go from a brown to bone white, and the leaves will fade from a nice red to a light green. Hopefully I can pull off the color transitions.
If you are looking for other MDF terrain, I bought some stuff from Sarissa Precision that I enjoyed putting together.
Both figuratively and literally.
Just need to finish up a couple bases.
Using your lips to keep a point on your brush after cleaning is completely normal, one of the best ways to do it.
Putting paint straight into your mouth a little less so.
This happens when you are too rough with your brush, or if you put too much paint on the brush and it gets into the metal ferrule at the top of the bristles. Once paint gets in there it's pretty much impossible to clean out. Once it dries your bristles will start fraying.
I never use my mouth
Do they not have an Achilles in GrimDark?
No he's in Infinity.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Steam: betsuni7
Yup, gives you something more substantial to hold onto while painting. Also easier to get into all the nooks and crannies.
Yep! It basically allows you to hold on to the mini without:
1) Getting your hands dirty, but more importantly...
2) Without your fat fingers getting in the way.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Ooooh. Tell me more, sensei.
I think I've seen some videos where they would do this, but it's bedtime for me now, so I won't be of much help. If you're not sure what I mean, I'll try to do a demonstration tomorrow.
Steam: betsuni7
It also happens when they are all 10 years old :P
What white and gold? It's blue and gold....
Ok, I just plain cannot do normal skin tones on minis and actively avoid human minis/minis with faces. I will try this and report back. I have bleached bone and flesh wash on hand I believe.
So I got to start playing D&D again, and have a character that is a wererat. We hit a point in the campaign and the DM said the sweetest words he can utter:
"You guys get to choose your mount as a reward, go hog wild flavor wise"
me: "I want a giant ginger chef that I ride under the cap of"
Him:"*sigh* ok"
me: *runs off to the pile of reaper minis*
So I took this mini (not my paint)
And got converting. he would need a pan, chef hat, accrutiments and a shiny kitchen tile floor. This is my first attempt at doing more with greenstuff than filling gaps. Also as stated above I'm terrible with skin tones, along with large models, so this thing was going to be quite the challenge. I am really happy with how it turned out.
WIP Albulm
Final product:
So the skin tone is so light that its actually really hard to get it with its shading in pictures, which I think means it came out well?