So i was watching some Games workshop youtube videos last night on the technical paints.
The Agrellian Earth /Martian Ironearth paint that produces a 'cracked ground' look is pretty awesome. What i was wondering is how well it would hold up and look if painted on the actual model instead of just on the base? I was thinking it might give a cool textured look on some of the KDM monsters but if its really fragile after it dries, then that wouldnt work well.
Crackle paint can be used on models in this way to great effect.
EDIT: Like so
So if you wanted a different color for the crackle paint, would you paint it after it dried, or could you mix in some other colors before it sets?
My understanding from some tutorials I've read suggest that you would paint the darker base colour, add the crackle paint, seal the crackle layer with varnish to strengthen it and then paint the crackles themselves the highlight colour.
Hey, right now they're doing Watching Paint Dry. They repair the mechs from last combat session and get the OpFor assembled and painted. They use 3d printed supersized models from the MWO assets (and upcoming Battletech game by Harebrained Schemes)
So I'll be cross-posting this in the Boardgames thread as well, but this seems as good a place as any to ask.
What is your favourite shop to check out for minis? I've looked at Reaper and they have a few particular pieces I like in bone material, and I don't mind buying individual figures in singles, but if you know of a site or anything that does a multi-pack of the same "minion", that'd be ideal. Something like a 3-pack or 5-pack of generic skeletons, orcs or goblins for example. They don't all need to be in the same pose, so whatever would work, honestly.
I also looked at Wizards of the Coast's site, which sells minis, but again, I'm looking for bigger quantities of a similar creature, rather than an assortment of creatures one of their pre-made adventure packs would include.
PSN: TheArcadeBear
Steam: TheArcadeBear
0
Options
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
I know Games Workshop sells packs of 3-5 (depending on the faction) minis for $10. Here's Orcs and skeletons.
Yeah, Games Workshop was something else I was looking at. Do they come with the "terrain" bases as well, or are they capable of standing up on their own (or have a circular base anywhere?)
PSN: TheArcadeBear
Steam: TheArcadeBear
0
Options
IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
Not many GW models do come with terrain bases, just hero units. Plus if they're Fantasy minis they likely don't include round bases either.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg) Backlog Challenge List
So, i picked up a games workshop 'dry' paint the other day, and its basically a ball of hard bubble gum. I presume it just had a bad seal and leaked out. Is there anything i can do to wake it up or does it just go in the trash?
Does anyone have any good tutorials on sponge weathering? I'm ready to start weathering my 1/48 scale Mega Size Zaku II and doing chips with just a brush would take millennium. It's an 18" tall model.
Okay, here's a bit of theory for such cases:
No matter if the paint is rubbery or just a bit goopy, thinning it with water does NOT bring it back to the original state. Acrylic paint doesn't only dry - it cures, which is what's causing the consistency in the bottle to change. Adding water undoes the effect of drying, but nothing can undo the effect of curing - the paint will never behave as well as a fresh (or well stored, which is impossible with Citadel bottles these days) paint. It may be perfectly serviceable in some cases, but problems with flow or coverage are to be expected.
0
Options
Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Calling all southpaws, lefties and the ambilevous! Salvation is arrived! Meet the long-awaited left-handed paintbrush: http://youtu.be/0hx9TO4Tao8
I actually saw this one yesterday as GW uploaded it a few days ago. Still, excellent stuff.
Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
0
Options
-Loki-Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining.Registered Userregular
Candy is ready to prowl the streets of Malifaux.
Had a hard time painting her, she's the size of my fingernail. It was essentially permanent fine detail mode. Unlike Baby Kade, she's got quite a lot of detail.
Since I've returned to the loving, expensive fold of Warhammer, I've been working on a Mechanicus army that had been shelved for awhile. Naturally it has to be full of special precious snowflakes, so I'm converting everything up and spending 10x as long instead of just using the regular kits. Here's a WIP Kastelan robot rolled liberally through the bits box. I should be able to make a unit of them for a good bit less than the regular box, assuming ebay bits sellers don't jack their prices up.
I'm hitting that awful 'large model fatigue' I get with big projects so pushing past it can be an effort. Still, I got a good chunk of the chainblade and heraldry plate done - I'm thinking of freehand-painting a bluebottle fly or something on it. Seems appropriate.
I also came to the conclusion that I really don't like the resin faceplate that comes with the Chaos Knight kit, and opted for one of the plastic ones that comes on the base IK sprues.
It's coming out REALLY well, so I hope you persevere.
(And if you do, tell me how, I'm going to be painting a whole Lizardmen army starting this month and I have no idea how I'm going to keep the willpower to do it).
Thanks; the greens are Citadel Castellan Green (or VGC Cayman Green, they're virtually identical), first highlight is Citadel Elysian Green and the final highlight is Citadel Ogryn Camo with a little VMC Ice Yellow added to the mix.
That's all done over a base coat of VGC Charred Brown with patches of VGC Gory Red, which was then masked so that the mask could be removed after the greens were airbrushed on, revealing the rusty patches.
Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
You know, when I was first collecting Warhammer (1999-2004) I thought I was excellent at the painting.
Oh god, I wasn't. I absolutely wasn't (I just found some old, old photos):
Contrast that to the stuff I paint today:
I used paints out of the pot, for fucks sake. Never once did I try to thin them. Had no clue what glazing was. I thought I was above using ink washes. What an arrogant little prick I was. Granted, I was more focused on playing but damn. Funny thing is, I had way, WAY more free time back then. Clearly I didn't have the patience though.
Since I've returned to the loving, expensive fold of Warhammer, I've been working on a Mechanicus army that had been shelved for awhile. Naturally it has to be full of special precious snowflakes, so I'm converting everything up and spending 10x as long instead of just using the regular kits. Here's a WIP Kastelan robot rolled liberally through the bits box. I should be able to make a unit of them for a good bit less than the regular box, assuming ebay bits sellers don't jack their prices up.
Talos body with mechanicus arms and legs, right?
Can we see a side shot?
-Loki-Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining.Registered Userregular
edited April 2016
What, your command doesn't issue enough ammo? Take some of mine. Slightly used, of course. Excuse the shinyness, it's got a layer of satin varnish and I'm out of dullcote.
Some super cool shit this page, but I really really love this dude:
Talos body with mechanicus arms and legs, right?
Can we see a side shot?
There's a side shot of it, I've since put it on a base and stuck some more tubes and wires everywhere. Yeah it's the base talos body, Kastelan arms/legs, Kataphron secondary arms, and an ork gun on top.
Holy crap you guys! It was a nice day out and we had no plans, so I finally decided to fire up the compressor and join up my airbrush for its maiden voyage.
Vallejo Surface Primer is love, Vallejo Surface Primer is life!
I only had 5 models cleaned and ready to prime, but it was a joy getting them done. I can't wait to get more models prepped and have a big priming session.
Now I need some cleaner to get a little paint out/off, any recommendations? Anything I can use in a pinch now so I don't have to go nuts closing later?
edit: airbrush priming really helps you see those mold lines...
Is P3 good enough to run straight through the brush or does it need a little thinning (and what with)? Seemed like the VSP was thin enough to go straight in with no issue. Might work on priming all my airborne and then do a big base coat spray for their uniforms to get a jump start.
So many questions! A whole new world just opened up.
For cleaning between color changes and final cleaning at end of day (after washing out), I recommend using Iwata-Medea Airbrush Cleaner.
This guy's more of a pro by me by any stretch, but I always found the P3 paints thinner than Vallejo or GW, or other lines like Reaper. Am I just taking crazy pills? Anyone else notice a difference?
Holy crap you guys! It was a nice day out and we had no plans, so I finally decided to fire up the compressor and join up my airbrush for its maiden voyage.
Vallejo Surface Primer is love, Vallejo Surface Primer is life!
I only had 5 models cleaned and ready to prime, but it was a joy getting them done. I can't wait to get more models prepped and have a big priming session.
Now I need some cleaner to get a little paint out/off, any recommendations? Anything I can use in a pinch now so I don't have to go nuts closing later?
edit: airbrush priming really helps you see those mold lines...
Is P3 good enough to run straight through the brush or does it need a little thinning (and what with)? Seemed like the VSP was thin enough to go straight in with no issue. Might work on priming all my airborne and then do a big base coat spray for their uniforms to get a jump start.
So many questions! A whole new world just opened up.
For cleaning between color changes and final cleaning at end of day (after washing out), I recommend using Iwata-Medea Airbrush Cleaner.
This guy's more of a pro by me by any stretch, but I always found the P3 paints thinner than Vallejo or GW, or other lines like Reaper. Am I just taking crazy pills? Anyone else notice a difference?
I use P3 paints in an airbrush with no more issues than any other brand.
I generally use less thinner than I would for Citadel and Vallejo but more than I would for Reaper.
Side note: I want to punch the guy in that video in the throat.
Posts
So if you wanted a different color for the crackle paint, would you paint it after it dried, or could you mix in some other colors before it sets?
EDIT: demonstration videoooo!
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Hey, right now they're doing Watching Paint Dry. They repair the mechs from last combat session and get the OpFor assembled and painted. They use 3d printed supersized models from the MWO assets (and upcoming Battletech game by Harebrained Schemes)
What is your favourite shop to check out for minis? I've looked at Reaper and they have a few particular pieces I like in bone material, and I don't mind buying individual figures in singles, but if you know of a site or anything that does a multi-pack of the same "minion", that'd be ideal. Something like a 3-pack or 5-pack of generic skeletons, orcs or goblins for example. They don't all need to be in the same pose, so whatever would work, honestly.
I also looked at Wizards of the Coast's site, which sells minis, but again, I'm looking for bigger quantities of a similar creature, rather than an assortment of creatures one of their pre-made adventure packs would include.
Steam: TheArcadeBear
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Steam: TheArcadeBear
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
(That's why it is called "dry" paint!)
No matter if the paint is rubbery or just a bit goopy, thinning it with water does NOT bring it back to the original state. Acrylic paint doesn't only dry - it cures, which is what's causing the consistency in the bottle to change. Adding water undoes the effect of drying, but nothing can undo the effect of curing - the paint will never behave as well as a fresh (or well stored, which is impossible with Citadel bottles these days) paint. It may be perfectly serviceable in some cases, but problems with flow or coverage are to be expected.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Had a hard time painting her, she's the size of my fingernail. It was essentially permanent fine detail mode. Unlike Baby Kade, she's got quite a lot of detail.
I also came to the conclusion that I really don't like the resin faceplate that comes with the Chaos Knight kit, and opted for one of the plastic ones that comes on the base IK sprues.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
(And if you do, tell me how, I'm going to be painting a whole Lizardmen army starting this month and I have no idea how I'm going to keep the willpower to do it).
That's all done over a base coat of VGC Charred Brown with patches of VGC Gory Red, which was then masked so that the mask could be removed after the greens were airbrushed on, revealing the rusty patches.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Oh god, I wasn't. I absolutely wasn't (I just found some old, old photos):
Contrast that to the stuff I paint today:
I used paints out of the pot, for fucks sake. Never once did I try to thin them. Had no clue what glazing was. I thought I was above using ink washes. What an arrogant little prick I was. Granted, I was more focused on playing but damn. Funny thing is, I had way, WAY more free time back then. Clearly I didn't have the patience though.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Think I should paint the straps on his boots dark grey?
I am all about seeing more of this!
He's looking great!
Talos body with mechanicus arms and legs, right?
Can we see a side shot?
There's a side shot of it, I've since put it on a base and stuck some more tubes and wires everywhere. Yeah it's the base talos body, Kastelan arms/legs, Kataphron secondary arms, and an ork gun on top.
This guy's more of a pro by me by any stretch, but I always found the P3 paints thinner than Vallejo or GW, or other lines like Reaper. Am I just taking crazy pills? Anyone else notice a difference?
Cel Leader with bolt pistol and sword
Brother with shotgun
Brother with heavy stubber.
Brother with grenade launcher
Brother with autogun.
Brother with autogun
Brother with autogun
Brother with hunting rifle
Initiate with autopistol
Initiate with laspistol
Initiate with autopistol
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
I use P3 paints in an airbrush with no more issues than any other brand.
I generally use less thinner than I would for Citadel and Vallejo but more than I would for Reaper.
Side note: I want to punch the guy in that video in the throat.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
They are just bringing the hobby back. Take it easy. They're keeping it fresh and making your models pop.
Aside from their bro hi-jinks I they are really good, informative videos.