Wanted a Chaos Contemptor with fists for a while. New rules make it much better and I had this resin contemptor laying around... so I put this together for my Word Bearers.
Chaos Contemptor with Power Fist, Chain Fist, and 2x Plasma Blaster/Soul Burner
Painted my first reiver. I am doing each as a different chapter to figure out what loyalist chapter I want to paint.
The first one is an Ultramarine as I had the transfers and stuff.
I am terrible at transfer sheets as I never use them as Chaos. I tend to hand paint any symbols or use the fancy ass pauldrons and such so I don't need them. And as my legion is a custom pallet set I don't use the legion transfers.
I found painting smurfs underwhelming. Also this was my first time using a white base as well which was interesting. My chaos are all black based and so are my orks. I am using the white to do my daemonettes you can see in the background because they have a different scheme.
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
Painted my first reiver. I am doing each as a different chapter to figure out what loyalist chapter I want to paint.
The first one is an Ultramarine as I had the transfers and stuff.
I am terrible at transfer sheets as I never use them as Chaos. I tend to hand paint any symbols or use the fancy ass pauldrons and such so I don't need them. And as my legion is a custom pallet set I don't use the legion transfers.
I found painting smurfs underwhelming. Also this was my first time using a white base as well which was interesting. My chaos are all black based and so are my orks. I am using the white to do my daemonettes you can see in the background because they have a different scheme.
Microset and microsol are the secret to making transfers look super rad. You can also gloss coat the area you want to apply the transfer to first to make it look really good.
Inquisitor on
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Painted my first reiver. I am doing each as a different chapter to figure out what loyalist chapter I want to paint.
The first one is an Ultramarine as I had the transfers and stuff.
I am terrible at transfer sheets as I never use them as Chaos. I tend to hand paint any symbols or use the fancy ass pauldrons and such so I don't need them. And as my legion is a custom pallet set I don't use the legion transfers.
I found painting smurfs underwhelming. Also this was my first time using a white base as well which was interesting. My chaos are all black based and so are my orks. I am using the white to do my daemonettes you can see in the background because they have a different scheme.
Microset and microsol are the secret to making transfers look super rad. You can also gloss coat the area you want to apply the transfer to first to make it look really good.
Throw on a top coat of Vallejo Decal Fix (don't bother with their medium if you have micro-sol and micro-set – they do the same job) to matte everything down and hide the edges and your decals will look painted on.
Ordered some Merlins Magic for a project im working on and thought to myself... hey, lets check out some casting molds.
So i finally got around to getting a mold from Hirst Arts after years of wanting one...
did 11 castings today. gonna make me a dice tower!
Yessssss.. Welcome to the plaster fun club!
Which plaster do you guys use for these? I've been messing around with plaster lately, using a lightweight type, and I think it's a little too fragile.
Although I've found good spray primers thanks to the advice here, I'm planning ahead for winter and the high humidity in the rest of summer, and would like to get an airbrush for priming, base coating, and topcoats.
After a bit of research, I understand I would need the airbrush, a .3 needle, a compressor with a tank and a water collector, a hose, a cleaning cup and cleaning solution. Does this make sense? Would anyone be able to suggest a good package, or should I get things individually?
Edit: meant to say with a tank
I made the following list of items to get. Would be happy to hear people's thoughts before I commit! I chose all Iwata components as they seem to have a reputation for durability, and so as to make sure all the parts fit together.
I'd say it needs a brown wash for the yellow, applied everywhere including the shoulder rims. And a sepia wash for the banner.
The problem with yellow is how transparent it is with 1-2 coats, and how chunky it gets with too many more. I would prime any future guys white and darken down to yellow instead of brightening up from black. It does mean more work in the crevices and metals, but the armor will thank you.
I finished my test model for my Reivers. I definitely like this more than all ultramarine blue, so I will go ahead and do this scheme for the rest of them.
I'd say it needs a brown wash for the yellow, applied everywhere including the shoulder rims. And a sepia wash for the banner.
The problem with yellow is how transparent it is with 1-2 coats, and how chunky it gets with too many more. I would prime any future guys white and darken down to yellow instead of brightening up from black. It does mean more work in the crevices and metals, but the armor will thank you.
I did the yellow on white primer. At this point I probably have too.many coats of yellow. And I've given the marine several washes.
I worked on this guy some more. Something doesn't seem right, and every time I try to clean it up some, it seems to get worse.
I think that the problem is that you're just painting yellow. Yellow is kind of like white. You don't actually paint it. Or rather, you compose it of a ton of different colors to give the illusion that something is all one color. Example:
Ordered some Merlins Magic for a project im working on and thought to myself... hey, lets check out some casting molds.
So i finally got around to getting a mold from Hirst Arts after years of wanting one...
*snip*
did 11 castings today. gonna make me a dice tower!
Yessssss.. Welcome to the plaster fun club!
Which plaster do you guys use for these? I've been messing around with plaster lately, using a lightweight type, and I think it's a little too fragile.
I don't fuck around, I go straight for the highest-test stuff I can get. That, in the last fifteen years, has been three 50-pound boxes of Excalibur. Die Stone plaster is super-smooth mixing, takes paint and glue super well, and is exceptionally hard when set but can be drilled and cut with tooling (Note: Dust Warning).
Be aware that anything you build of substantial size will be heavy as hell. For instance, I built my first tabletop dungeon set (I do this a lot, btw) to cover a 45"" x 52.5"" area (over sixteen square feet), in 7.5" square modular tiles. Those 7.5" square tiles were a layer of MDF, with a layer of floor tiles glued to it, with wall blocks then built atop; a straight hallway, for instance, had walls on two sides 1.5" thick and 2" tall across the 7.5" span. Each of these 7.5" modular dungeon segments weighs in the neighborhood of plus or minus a pound each. That made the entire thing weigh a feckton for transport.
I've since refined my build methods, using walls that are less than a floor tile wide (0.5" except at corners) and tall (1.5" tall), and it works much nicer. Also weighs substantially less.
Due to using die stone, this stuff is nigh-indestructible. The worst wear & tear it takes with even a small bit of care is chipped paint, so I suggest if you build something like this you use a die stone color that you don't mind showing through in places, or using a colorant during the mix.
I'm happy to answer any other questions about this stuff. Like I said, I've been doing it for entirely too long, and built entirely too many things like this.
I'm thinking about checking out that style of casting because I think it would be fun to build a really nice modular 3D Space Hulk setup.
God fecking damnit I hate the internet some days. Fixed. I think.
Weird, the pictures were showing up for me before just fine. They still are, and are still awesome (aside from what appears to be an awful lot of giant spiders in the first one).
I'd love to play a game on a fully done up board like that. Most of my D&D experiences have been "theater of the mind" or "Let me get this white board and draw a square on it to represent a dungeon, then a smaller square to show the sinister and quite likely evil alter of a forgotten god king" kind of things. Still fun, but not quite the same.
And that first dungeon looks like it could shrug off a bullet or two.
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Today I opened a pot of emperor's children that I've 100% had for less than 5 years. It looked alright on top, but the moment I stuck in a toothpick to mix it, I knew it wasn't going to go far. It wasn't dried out, but a horrendous gunky mess. Thankfully I only needed a little, but it was a great reminder of how little I like or endorse GW paints.
Now I need to pop open a pot of gehenna's gold and pray for a better fate, because I need way more of it. <_<
Today I opened a pot of emperor's children that I've 100% had for less than 5 years. It looked alright on top, but the moment I stuck in a toothpick to mix it, I knew it wasn't going to go far. It wasn't dried out, but a horrendous gunky mess. Thankfully I only needed a little, but it was a great reminder of how little I like or endorse GW paints.
Now I need to pop open a pot of gehenna's gold and pray for a better fate, because I need way more of it. <_<
1. I think your expectations are a bit off; five years is a helluva long time for paint. So is 3-4 years. Actually, some pains come over all gooey after a year…
2. Add some Vallejo airbrush thinner. Best magic paint restorative I've found yet.
ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
When I still routinely use bottles of reaper exactly as old and have no problems, I'm not sure it's that unreasonable. GW's pots are notoriously bad.
I'll throw some thinner in later and get back to you. Again, I didn't need much so it was all okay, but I'm happy to make it useful again given the possibility.
The gold has wound up just fine, so it's not like it's all bad.
Got my eyes tested and apparently they are worse again. So that explains my difficulty focusing on models. ;( Got given focusing exercises and stuff to do as I have "high visual demands" hah!
Got my eyes tested and apparently they are worse again. So that explains my difficulty focusing on models. ;( Got given focusing exercises and stuff to do as I have "high visual demands" hah!
How bad is worse?
Curious about this because the last time I had my eyes tested was in my teens where they were great, but in the last year I've felt similar regarding focus. Really only seems to come up while using my computer, so I'm not sure if it's just a bad monitor/font readability combination or what, but I'd like to know at what level it's started to be an issue for you to work on minis.
Posts
They look awesomely like the oldschool bird raptor jumppacks, which were always my favorite. Good resin casts too.
Are those Wolfen legs?
I still like them more than the boxy imperial ones
They're fenris wolf legs.
So i finally got around to getting a mold from Hirst Arts after years of wanting one...
did 11 castings today. gonna make me a dice tower!
Chaos Contemptor with Power Fist, Chain Fist, and 2x Plasma Blaster/Soul Burner
The first one is an Ultramarine as I had the transfers and stuff.
I am terrible at transfer sheets as I never use them as Chaos. I tend to hand paint any symbols or use the fancy ass pauldrons and such so I don't need them. And as my legion is a custom pallet set I don't use the legion transfers.
I found painting smurfs underwhelming. Also this was my first time using a white base as well which was interesting. My chaos are all black based and so are my orks. I am using the white to do my daemonettes you can see in the background because they have a different scheme.
Yessssss.. Welcome to the plaster fun club!
Microset and microsol are the secret to making transfers look super rad. You can also gloss coat the area you want to apply the transfer to first to make it look really good.
Throw on a top coat of Vallejo Decal Fix (don't bother with their medium if you have micro-sol and micro-set – they do the same job) to matte everything down and hide the edges and your decals will look painted on.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
starting to wonder if that chest lightning is a bit ott.
also, totally laying in a set of those kromlech jump packs!
That chest lightning is cool and you should feel cool.
...I guess you call that orange.
the chainmail bath towel didn't quite go to plan. making pinholes in a thin piece of greenstuff not anchored to anything is basically unworkable.
Which plaster do you guys use for these? I've been messing around with plaster lately, using a lightweight type, and I think it's a little too fragile.
He's angry because he's short.
After a bit of research, I understand I would need the airbrush, a .3 needle, a compressor with a tank and a water collector, a hose, a cleaning cup and cleaning solution. Does this make sense? Would anyone be able to suggest a good package, or should I get things individually?
Edit: meant to say with a tank
I made the following list of items to get. Would be happy to hear people's thoughts before I commit! I chose all Iwata components as they seem to have a reputation for durability, and so as to make sure all the parts fit together.
Iwata-Medea Studio Series Sprint Jet Single Piston Air Compressor
Iwata-Medea Universal Spray Out Pot
Iwata-Medea Airbrush Cleaner 32 oz
Iwata-Medea Air Hose
Master Airbrush Brand Portable Hobby Airbrush Spray Booth
3M Paint Project Respirator, Medium
PSN: ShinyRedKnight Xbox Live: ShinyRedKnight
The problem with yellow is how transparent it is with 1-2 coats, and how chunky it gets with too many more. I would prime any future guys white and darken down to yellow instead of brightening up from black. It does mean more work in the crevices and metals, but the armor will thank you.
I did the yellow on white primer. At this point I probably have too.many coats of yellow. And I've given the marine several washes.
I think that the problem is that you're just painting yellow. Yellow is kind of like white. You don't actually paint it. Or rather, you compose it of a ton of different colors to give the illusion that something is all one color. Example:
https://seismicminiaturepaintingstudio.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/imp-fist-lc-1.jpg
That yellow is actually painted with a blend from a very dark brown to the yellow.
Here is one with less shading, but you see VERY dynamic highlighting from a dark brown all the way to almost white:
https://iyandenswraith.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/img_0216.jpg?w=1000&h=700&crop=1
I don't fuck around, I go straight for the highest-test stuff I can get. That, in the last fifteen years, has been three 50-pound boxes of Excalibur. Die Stone plaster is super-smooth mixing, takes paint and glue super well, and is exceptionally hard when set but can be drilled and cut with tooling (Note: Dust Warning).
Be aware that anything you build of substantial size will be heavy as hell. For instance, I built my first tabletop dungeon set (I do this a lot, btw) to cover a 45"" x 52.5"" area (over sixteen square feet), in 7.5" square modular tiles. Those 7.5" square tiles were a layer of MDF, with a layer of floor tiles glued to it, with wall blocks then built atop; a straight hallway, for instance, had walls on two sides 1.5" thick and 2" tall across the 7.5" span. Each of these 7.5" modular dungeon segments weighs in the neighborhood of plus or minus a pound each. That made the entire thing weigh a feckton for transport.
I've since refined my build methods, using walls that are less than a floor tile wide (0.5" except at corners) and tall (1.5" tall), and it works much nicer. Also weighs substantially less.
Due to using die stone, this stuff is nigh-indestructible. The worst wear & tear it takes with even a small bit of care is chipped paint, so I suggest if you build something like this you use a die stone color that you don't mind showing through in places, or using a colorant during the mix.
I'm happy to answer any other questions about this stuff. Like I said, I've been doing it for entirely too long, and built entirely too many things like this.
I'm thinking about checking out that style of casting because I think it would be fun to build a really nice modular 3D Space Hulk setup.
God fecking damnit I hate the internet some days. Fixed. I think.
Weird, the pictures were showing up for me before just fine. They still are, and are still awesome (aside from what appears to be an awful lot of giant spiders in the first one).
I'd love to play a game on a fully done up board like that. Most of my D&D experiences have been "theater of the mind" or "Let me get this white board and draw a square on it to represent a dungeon, then a smaller square to show the sinister and quite likely evil alter of a forgotten god king" kind of things. Still fun, but not quite the same.
And that first dungeon looks like it could shrug off a bullet or two.
Now I need to pop open a pot of gehenna's gold and pray for a better fate, because I need way more of it. <_<
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
2. Add some Vallejo airbrush thinner. Best magic paint restorative I've found yet.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
I'll throw some thinner in later and get back to you. Again, I didn't need much so it was all okay, but I'm happy to make it useful again given the possibility.
The gold has wound up just fine, so it's not like it's all bad.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
I hated those pots when i was a kit though, could never get the tops open
Got my eyes tested and apparently they are worse again. So that explains my difficulty focusing on models. ;( Got given focusing exercises and stuff to do as I have "high visual demands" hah!
Love that paint
How bad is worse?
Curious about this because the last time I had my eyes tested was in my teens where they were great, but in the last year I've felt similar regarding focus. Really only seems to come up while using my computer, so I'm not sure if it's just a bad monitor/font readability combination or what, but I'd like to know at what level it's started to be an issue for you to work on minis.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Drill that bolter, son!