Only August and September left for them to add Assassin's Creed Brotherhood, then. I guess they could cheat and do the XB1 Ezio Collection instead. (I'm saying this because nearly the entire series, notably not including Ass Bro, has been given out over time on GWG).
That really was such a weird omission. I ended up grabbing Ezio Collection in a sale a while back too; it's as half-assed a remaster as any has ever been but it's still a step up.
I'm still consistently running into the 640x480 startup resolution issue. Contemplating doing a factory reset to see if that would fix it but don't really feel like downloading everything again. I assume a factory reset also reformats the hard drive?
I'm still consistently running into the 640x480 startup resolution issue. Contemplating doing a factory reset to see if that would fix it but don't really feel like downloading everything again. I assume a factory reset also reformats the hard drive?
Could you move all your game installations onto external storage? It wouldn't be fast, but it would be faster than redownloading probably.
That problem is all about the breakdown in communication between the Xbox and the TV, so using different HDMI cables, hooking up to a different input on the TV, using cold boot mode, and only turning on the Xbox if the TV is on already would all have a higher chance at fixing it (or at least mitigating it) than doing a factory reset would.
Pity on the 360 games, but yeah, to be expected. To be honest, I feel like there was one or two I was hoping would repeat, though I can't remember off the top of my head what they were.
On the upside, now if I buy them, I don't have to worry about feeling like a dope if it shows up on the next month's GWG.
Like Mega Man Legends? Then check out my story, Legends of the Halcyon Era - An Adventure in the World of Mega Man Legends on TMMN and AO3!
Is Ninja Gaiden Sigma or Ninja Gaiden Black the better version of the game. I get conflicting views everywhere I look
Sigma has some extra content, but most people would say Black, as Sigma is considered a flawed port in some ways. If you're unfamiliar with both, "the one you can play for free on Game Pass" is a good choice.
Is Ninja Gaiden Sigma or Ninja Gaiden Black the better version of the game. I get conflicting views everywhere I look
Of course this is asked while I'm not looking. I spent the extended weekend busy with The Quarry and Resident Evil 3 and fixing Skyrim.
1) Ninja Gaiden Black is almost the perfect action game, made closer to perfect via an amazing implementation in the backwards compatibility library (though this is less obvious if you're playing it on Xbox One rather than higher end hardware, since you'll miss the big resolution bump). But it's still an eighteen year old game that feels like a ten year old one. It's pretty similar to looking at a much more polished version of the original Devil May Cry and invariably comparing it to DMC5; it is very clearly a product that belongs to 2004, though very forward looking in gameplay, and a technological powerhouse. That might be a positive, or it might be a turnoff, but even then...
2) Ninja Gaiden Sigma has a lot of those same flaws (for example, an adversarial, old-style camera), on top of others due to its status as an "imperfect" port. By virtue of being an early Playstation 3 game--a full console generation later--it features some additional particle effects, but a lot of these will actually come down to artistic preference. I would actually say this is its bigger advantage (some of the modest changes to character models are welcome--Rachel and Ayane have more human-looking faces when the game was striving for a difficult-to-achieve photorealistic aesthetic, Ryu would too if it wasn't for the fact that his face is almost entirely covered the whole game), along with the added content (playing as Rachel in bonus chapters, and additional challenge arenas). It also has some obvious flaws; in taking Ninja Gaiden and turning it the best PS3 action game up to that point, the games controls are permanently bound to a setup that feels more natural on Dualshock 3 than any Xbox gamepad (maybe a plus for people coming from Playstation, but a negative otherwise), and the PS3-era UI is not doing the game any favors even compared to what it replaced. Certain gameplay aspects are deliberately weakened to be more forgiving to the player, though if NGB's challenge was too much, this is probably a good thing. It is, far and away, much less defective than Sigma 2, which is pretty universally panned as big step backwards (and potentially not even that much easier). At least it has achievements, if that sort of thing matters enough to you (it was a motivator for me buying the games on sale).
It says something about the state of Playstation 3 development at the time that what was, for a short window, the best action game on that platform having both advantages and disadvantages versus its updated Xbox release a few years earlier. Of course, if you're playing this on Xbox Series S, the fact that NGB is available for purchase in physical form isn't an advantage anymore (though NGS requires you purchase all three titles, the other two of which I don't think are actually worth playing ultimately).
That problem is all about the breakdown in communication between the Xbox and the TV, so using different HDMI cables, hooking up to a different input on the TV, using cold boot mode, and only turning on the Xbox if the TV is on already would all have a higher chance at fixing it (or at least mitigating it) than doing a factory reset would.
It's a seemingly random problem with the LG and the Series X though. I tried changing the hdmi cable and it still booted into 640x480 mode. I already have it booting from energy saver mode (the slightly slower one) and I already have the tv on a different input to help the handshake. I just never had this problem on my old C9 so it's just frustrating. I also tried different inputs on the tv and that didn't help either unfortunately. The worst is that there are a number of posts about this problem online but no actual real solutions to it. Just ways to fix it when it happens, but it's utter bullshit that it happens in the first place. The worst is you can change the xbox video options from Auto-Detect to HDMI, I can choose up to 1440p and it boots every time without issues. It's only if I choose auto-detect (which is required for 4k) that I have issues. If it were really a handshake issue, it should have issues regardless. It's baffling and annoying. I only thought about a factory reset if there were some like options on the series x from my old C9 setup that are causing the thing to get confused that it's a new tv. I dunno.
That problem is all about the breakdown in communication between the Xbox and the TV, so using different HDMI cables, hooking up to a different input on the TV, using cold boot mode, and only turning on the Xbox if the TV is on already would all have a higher chance at fixing it (or at least mitigating it) than doing a factory reset would.
It's a seemingly random problem with the LG and the Series X though. I tried changing the hdmi cable and it still booted into 640x480 mode. I already have it booting from energy saver mode (the slightly slower one) and I already have the tv on a different input to help the handshake. I just never had this problem on my old C9 so it's just frustrating. I also tried different inputs on the tv and that didn't help either unfortunately. The worst is that there are a number of posts about this problem online but no actual real solutions to it. Just ways to fix it when it happens, but it's utter bullshit that it happens in the first place. The worst is you can change the xbox video options from Auto-Detect to HDMI, I can choose up to 1440p and it boots every time without issues. It's only if I choose auto-detect (which is required for 4k) that I have issues. If it were really a handshake issue, it should have issues regardless. It's baffling and annoying. I only thought about a factory reset if there were some like options on the series x from my old C9 setup that are causing the thing to get confused that it's a new tv. I dunno.
A factory reset is a go-to solution for these sort of problems. It doesn't always work, but it very seldom makes things worse. Back up all your game installations on external storage first, obviously.
On the whole, I've found that LG OLED panels (this is probably also true about their Nanocell LED televisions, but those are frankly just worse versions of the LCD panels you could get from Samsung to start) have a lot of compatibility issues that are infuriating. However, most of them pertain to HDMI-CEC; I've had one or two occasions where the console tried to force my LG C1 into a very low resolution (in my case, due to DVD playback in a format that the console supported, but the television did not). If you're getting this issue with the high-end HDMI cable that came with your console, then that's definitely a bad sign (I had PC issues where trying to turn on HDR with a RTX 3080-equipped PC connected directly to the LG C1 would cause it to default to 640x480 or possibly 800x600; the solution turned out to be a better cable), possibly relating to a defective cable. It sucks that we have to even bother troubleshooting it like this, but did your alternatives meet the HDMI 2.1 standard (on Amazon, this is usually called "8K, 48Gbps" support)? I wonder if that isn't the culprit here. Better that then a mechanical failure with the video out on the console itself obviously.
That problem is all about the breakdown in communication between the Xbox and the TV, so using different HDMI cables, hooking up to a different input on the TV, using cold boot mode, and only turning on the Xbox if the TV is on already would all have a higher chance at fixing it (or at least mitigating it) than doing a factory reset would.
It's a seemingly random problem with the LG and the Series X though. I tried changing the hdmi cable and it still booted into 640x480 mode. I already have it booting from energy saver mode (the slightly slower one) and I already have the tv on a different input to help the handshake. I just never had this problem on my old C9 so it's just frustrating. I also tried different inputs on the tv and that didn't help either unfortunately. The worst is that there are a number of posts about this problem online but no actual real solutions to it. Just ways to fix it when it happens, but it's utter bullshit that it happens in the first place. The worst is you can change the xbox video options from Auto-Detect to HDMI, I can choose up to 1440p and it boots every time without issues. It's only if I choose auto-detect (which is required for 4k) that I have issues. If it were really a handshake issue, it should have issues regardless. It's baffling and annoying. I only thought about a factory reset if there were some like options on the series x from my old C9 setup that are causing the thing to get confused that it's a new tv. I dunno.
A factory reset is a go-to solution for these sort of problems. It doesn't always work, but it very seldom makes things worse. Back up all your game installations on external storage first, obviously.
On the whole, I've found that LG OLED panels (this is probably also true about their Nanocell LED televisions, but those are frankly just worse versions of the LCD panels you could get from Samsung to start) have a lot of compatibility issues that are infuriating. However, most of them pertain to HDMI-CEC; I've had one or two occasions where the console tried to force my LG C1 into a very low resolution (in my case, due to DVD playback in a format that the console supported, but the television did not). If you're getting this issue with the high-end HDMI cable that came with your console, then that's definitely a bad sign (I had PC issues where trying to turn on HDR with a RTX 3080-equipped PC connected directly to the LG C1 would cause it to default to 640x480 or possibly 800x600; the solution turned out to be a better cable), possibly relating to a defective cable. It sucks that we have to even bother troubleshooting it like this, but did your alternatives meet the HDMI 2.1 standard (on Amazon, this is usually called "8K, 48Gbps" support)? I wonder if that isn't the culprit here. Better that then a mechanical failure with the video out on the console itself obviously.
Yeah my alternative cable I bought to be used with my 4k cable box a couple years ago when I bought the original C9. I don't actually have a way to back anything up, but there also isn't a ton on my Series X that I would need to re-download in the scheme of things if I did do a factory reset. I don't want to go there yet because maybe it's just a series of settings that I'm missing on the LG that don't play nice with the Series X, but it's just so hard to find an answer. That's the most surprising thing about this. The only answer I've seen is sending in for a replacement from Microsoft, but I didn't find a good response that said it was 100% fixed by doing that and it just seems so dumb. Also the same as doing a factory reset.
That problem is all about the breakdown in communication between the Xbox and the TV, so using different HDMI cables, hooking up to a different input on the TV, using cold boot mode, and only turning on the Xbox if the TV is on already would all have a higher chance at fixing it (or at least mitigating it) than doing a factory reset would.
It's a seemingly random problem with the LG and the Series X though. I tried changing the hdmi cable and it still booted into 640x480 mode. I already have it booting from energy saver mode (the slightly slower one) and I already have the tv on a different input to help the handshake. I just never had this problem on my old C9 so it's just frustrating. I also tried different inputs on the tv and that didn't help either unfortunately. The worst is that there are a number of posts about this problem online but no actual real solutions to it. Just ways to fix it when it happens, but it's utter bullshit that it happens in the first place. The worst is you can change the xbox video options from Auto-Detect to HDMI, I can choose up to 1440p and it boots every time without issues. It's only if I choose auto-detect (which is required for 4k) that I have issues. If it were really a handshake issue, it should have issues regardless. It's baffling and annoying. I only thought about a factory reset if there were some like options on the series x from my old C9 setup that are causing the thing to get confused that it's a new tv. I dunno.
A factory reset is a go-to solution for these sort of problems. It doesn't always work, but it very seldom makes things worse. Back up all your game installations on external storage first, obviously.
On the whole, I've found that LG OLED panels (this is probably also true about their Nanocell LED televisions, but those are frankly just worse versions of the LCD panels you could get from Samsung to start) have a lot of compatibility issues that are infuriating. However, most of them pertain to HDMI-CEC; I've had one or two occasions where the console tried to force my LG C1 into a very low resolution (in my case, due to DVD playback in a format that the console supported, but the television did not). If you're getting this issue with the high-end HDMI cable that came with your console, then that's definitely a bad sign (I had PC issues where trying to turn on HDR with a RTX 3080-equipped PC connected directly to the LG C1 would cause it to default to 640x480 or possibly 800x600; the solution turned out to be a better cable), possibly relating to a defective cable. It sucks that we have to even bother troubleshooting it like this, but did your alternatives meet the HDMI 2.1 standard (on Amazon, this is usually called "8K, 48Gbps" support)? I wonder if that isn't the culprit here. Better that then a mechanical failure with the video out on the console itself obviously.
Yeah my alternative cable I bought to be used with my 4k cable box a couple years ago when I bought the original C9. I don't actually have a way to back anything up, but there also isn't a ton on my Series X that I would need to re-download in the scheme of things if I did do a factory reset. I don't want to go there yet because maybe it's just a series of settings that I'm missing on the LG that don't play nice with the Series X, but it's just so hard to find an answer. That's the most surprising thing about this. The only answer I've seen is sending in for a replacement from Microsoft, but I didn't find a good response that said it was 100% fixed by doing that and it just seems so dumb. Also the same as doing a factory reset.
Unless I'm misunderstanding you, the most obvious thing that comes to mind is that any HDMI cable you would've bought back when the C9 was new (LG rolled out their C2 televisions earlier this year--so if you're not keeping track of their dumb naming schema, that's the C2, the C1 (mine), the CX, and then the C9 before that) almost certainly isn't HDMI 2.1 (a mishap that could easily happen today, if you weren't careful on Amazon or your prefered retailer, much less a few years ago). The replacement cable could be the culprit (even if that seems odds-defying that you'd have the original cable go bad in the first place, Microsoft generally includes the highest-end cable you could possibly need with their consoles, they're just pretty short).
Plus, even if it's not a solution, at least you have a high-end HDMI 2.1 cable. Time was, the actual HDMI certified capabilities of a cable didn't matter (or they did, but if your cable was bad, it would just flat out not work), but that's becoming less and less often the case now.
That problem is all about the breakdown in communication between the Xbox and the TV, so using different HDMI cables, hooking up to a different input on the TV, using cold boot mode, and only turning on the Xbox if the TV is on already would all have a higher chance at fixing it (or at least mitigating it) than doing a factory reset would.
It's a seemingly random problem with the LG and the Series X though. I tried changing the hdmi cable and it still booted into 640x480 mode. I already have it booting from energy saver mode (the slightly slower one) and I already have the tv on a different input to help the handshake. I just never had this problem on my old C9 so it's just frustrating. I also tried different inputs on the tv and that didn't help either unfortunately. The worst is that there are a number of posts about this problem online but no actual real solutions to it. Just ways to fix it when it happens, but it's utter bullshit that it happens in the first place. The worst is you can change the xbox video options from Auto-Detect to HDMI, I can choose up to 1440p and it boots every time without issues. It's only if I choose auto-detect (which is required for 4k) that I have issues. If it were really a handshake issue, it should have issues regardless. It's baffling and annoying. I only thought about a factory reset if there were some like options on the series x from my old C9 setup that are causing the thing to get confused that it's a new tv. I dunno.
A factory reset is a go-to solution for these sort of problems. It doesn't always work, but it very seldom makes things worse. Back up all your game installations on external storage first, obviously.
On the whole, I've found that LG OLED panels (this is probably also true about their Nanocell LED televisions, but those are frankly just worse versions of the LCD panels you could get from Samsung to start) have a lot of compatibility issues that are infuriating. However, most of them pertain to HDMI-CEC; I've had one or two occasions where the console tried to force my LG C1 into a very low resolution (in my case, due to DVD playback in a format that the console supported, but the television did not). If you're getting this issue with the high-end HDMI cable that came with your console, then that's definitely a bad sign (I had PC issues where trying to turn on HDR with a RTX 3080-equipped PC connected directly to the LG C1 would cause it to default to 640x480 or possibly 800x600; the solution turned out to be a better cable), possibly relating to a defective cable. It sucks that we have to even bother troubleshooting it like this, but did your alternatives meet the HDMI 2.1 standard (on Amazon, this is usually called "8K, 48Gbps" support)? I wonder if that isn't the culprit here. Better that then a mechanical failure with the video out on the console itself obviously.
Yeah my alternative cable I bought to be used with my 4k cable box a couple years ago when I bought the original C9. I don't actually have a way to back anything up, but there also isn't a ton on my Series X that I would need to re-download in the scheme of things if I did do a factory reset. I don't want to go there yet because maybe it's just a series of settings that I'm missing on the LG that don't play nice with the Series X, but it's just so hard to find an answer. That's the most surprising thing about this. The only answer I've seen is sending in for a replacement from Microsoft, but I didn't find a good response that said it was 100% fixed by doing that and it just seems so dumb. Also the same as doing a factory reset.
Unless I'm misunderstanding you, the most obvious thing that comes to mind is that any HDMI cable you would've bought back when the C9 was new (LG rolled out their C2 televisions earlier this year--so if you're not keeping track of their dumb naming schema, that's the C2, the C1 (mine), the CX, and then the C9 before that) almost certainly isn't HDMI 2.1 (a mishap that could easily happen today, if you weren't careful on Amazon or your prefered retailer, much less a few years ago). The replacement cable could be the culprit (even if that seems odds-defying that you'd have the original cable go bad in the first place, Microsoft generally includes the highest-end cable you could possibly need with their consoles, they're just pretty short).
Plus, even if it's not a solution, at least you have a high-end HDMI 2.1 cable. Time was, the actual HDMI certified capabilities of a cable didn't matter (or they did, but if your cable was bad, it would just flat out not work), but that's becoming less and less often the case now.
Maybe I wasn't clear? The C9 is my older OLED tv and the C2 is my new one. I'm using the branded Xbox cable with the C2 but used to have the xbox attached to the C9 before I moved and bought the C2 for the new house. I never had any issues with the C9 and the series X. Just to be sure it wasn't the xbox cable, I tested it out using a different cable I had at the house (this one) which is branded as hdmi 2.1 and still had the same issues. I guess it's possible the xbox cable was ruined during the move, but it doesn't really seem likely?
It's also possible LG did something in the firmware starting with the CX. I do know there are configuration differences with the C9 and the C2 since the gaming mode comes on in a very different way and maybe those differences are what are causing issues. I just know everyone doesn't have this problem since it would be way more widespread otherwise.
edit: The one thing I've seen a number of times are people saying their consoles worked perfectly until they got their new LG tv and then they started having these resolution issues. It's why I was contemplating a factory reset. Obviously I really don't want to do that, but it's an option.
That problem is all about the breakdown in communication between the Xbox and the TV, so using different HDMI cables, hooking up to a different input on the TV, using cold boot mode, and only turning on the Xbox if the TV is on already would all have a higher chance at fixing it (or at least mitigating it) than doing a factory reset would.
It's a seemingly random problem with the LG and the Series X though. I tried changing the hdmi cable and it still booted into 640x480 mode. I already have it booting from energy saver mode (the slightly slower one) and I already have the tv on a different input to help the handshake. I just never had this problem on my old C9 so it's just frustrating. I also tried different inputs on the tv and that didn't help either unfortunately. The worst is that there are a number of posts about this problem online but no actual real solutions to it. Just ways to fix it when it happens, but it's utter bullshit that it happens in the first place. The worst is you can change the xbox video options from Auto-Detect to HDMI, I can choose up to 1440p and it boots every time without issues. It's only if I choose auto-detect (which is required for 4k) that I have issues. If it were really a handshake issue, it should have issues regardless. It's baffling and annoying. I only thought about a factory reset if there were some like options on the series x from my old C9 setup that are causing the thing to get confused that it's a new tv. I dunno.
A factory reset is a go-to solution for these sort of problems. It doesn't always work, but it very seldom makes things worse. Back up all your game installations on external storage first, obviously.
On the whole, I've found that LG OLED panels (this is probably also true about their Nanocell LED televisions, but those are frankly just worse versions of the LCD panels you could get from Samsung to start) have a lot of compatibility issues that are infuriating. However, most of them pertain to HDMI-CEC; I've had one or two occasions where the console tried to force my LG C1 into a very low resolution (in my case, due to DVD playback in a format that the console supported, but the television did not). If you're getting this issue with the high-end HDMI cable that came with your console, then that's definitely a bad sign (I had PC issues where trying to turn on HDR with a RTX 3080-equipped PC connected directly to the LG C1 would cause it to default to 640x480 or possibly 800x600; the solution turned out to be a better cable), possibly relating to a defective cable. It sucks that we have to even bother troubleshooting it like this, but did your alternatives meet the HDMI 2.1 standard (on Amazon, this is usually called "8K, 48Gbps" support)? I wonder if that isn't the culprit here. Better that then a mechanical failure with the video out on the console itself obviously.
Yeah my alternative cable I bought to be used with my 4k cable box a couple years ago when I bought the original C9. I don't actually have a way to back anything up, but there also isn't a ton on my Series X that I would need to re-download in the scheme of things if I did do a factory reset. I don't want to go there yet because maybe it's just a series of settings that I'm missing on the LG that don't play nice with the Series X, but it's just so hard to find an answer. That's the most surprising thing about this. The only answer I've seen is sending in for a replacement from Microsoft, but I didn't find a good response that said it was 100% fixed by doing that and it just seems so dumb. Also the same as doing a factory reset.
Unless I'm misunderstanding you, the most obvious thing that comes to mind is that any HDMI cable you would've bought back when the C9 was new (LG rolled out their C2 televisions earlier this year--so if you're not keeping track of their dumb naming schema, that's the C2, the C1 (mine), the CX, and then the C9 before that) almost certainly isn't HDMI 2.1 (a mishap that could easily happen today, if you weren't careful on Amazon or your prefered retailer, much less a few years ago). The replacement cable could be the culprit (even if that seems odds-defying that you'd have the original cable go bad in the first place, Microsoft generally includes the highest-end cable you could possibly need with their consoles, they're just pretty short).
Plus, even if it's not a solution, at least you have a high-end HDMI 2.1 cable. Time was, the actual HDMI certified capabilities of a cable didn't matter (or they did, but if your cable was bad, it would just flat out not work), but that's becoming less and less often the case now.
Maybe I wasn't clear? The C9 is my older OLED tv and the C2 is my new one. I'm using the branded Xbox cable with the C2 but used to have the xbox attached to the C9 before I moved and bought the C2 for the new house. I never had any issues with the C9 and the series X. Just to be sure it wasn't the xbox cable, I tested it out using a different cable I had at the house (this one) which is branded as hdmi 2.1 and still had the same issues. I guess it's possible the xbox cable was ruined during the move, but it doesn't really seem likely?
It's also possible LG did something in the firmware starting with the CX. I do know there are configuration differences with the C9 and the C2 since the gaming mode comes on in a very different way and maybe those differences are what are causing issues. I just know everyone doesn't have this problem since it would be way more widespread otherwise.
edit: The one thing I've seen a number of times are people saying their consoles worked perfectly until they got their new LG tv and then they started having these resolution issues. It's why I was contemplating a factory reset. Obviously I really don't want to do that, but it's an option.
Oh, then I misunderstood you. It's probably not the cables, which leaves the television or the console as the culprit. In my own experience, there's more that could go wrong with the C2 (especially given LG's history of less-than-helpful updates, or that few months were C1's panels didn't support HDMI 2.1 at all until that was fixed with an update) than the console, but you could probably rule that out with a factory reset.
That problem is all about the breakdown in communication between the Xbox and the TV, so using different HDMI cables, hooking up to a different input on the TV, using cold boot mode, and only turning on the Xbox if the TV is on already would all have a higher chance at fixing it (or at least mitigating it) than doing a factory reset would.
It's a seemingly random problem with the LG and the Series X though. I tried changing the hdmi cable and it still booted into 640x480 mode. I already have it booting from energy saver mode (the slightly slower one) and I already have the tv on a different input to help the handshake. I just never had this problem on my old C9 so it's just frustrating. I also tried different inputs on the tv and that didn't help either unfortunately. The worst is that there are a number of posts about this problem online but no actual real solutions to it. Just ways to fix it when it happens, but it's utter bullshit that it happens in the first place. The worst is you can change the xbox video options from Auto-Detect to HDMI, I can choose up to 1440p and it boots every time without issues. It's only if I choose auto-detect (which is required for 4k) that I have issues. If it were really a handshake issue, it should have issues regardless. It's baffling and annoying. I only thought about a factory reset if there were some like options on the series x from my old C9 setup that are causing the thing to get confused that it's a new tv. I dunno.
A factory reset is a go-to solution for these sort of problems. It doesn't always work, but it very seldom makes things worse. Back up all your game installations on external storage first, obviously.
On the whole, I've found that LG OLED panels (this is probably also true about their Nanocell LED televisions, but those are frankly just worse versions of the LCD panels you could get from Samsung to start) have a lot of compatibility issues that are infuriating. However, most of them pertain to HDMI-CEC; I've had one or two occasions where the console tried to force my LG C1 into a very low resolution (in my case, due to DVD playback in a format that the console supported, but the television did not). If you're getting this issue with the high-end HDMI cable that came with your console, then that's definitely a bad sign (I had PC issues where trying to turn on HDR with a RTX 3080-equipped PC connected directly to the LG C1 would cause it to default to 640x480 or possibly 800x600; the solution turned out to be a better cable), possibly relating to a defective cable. It sucks that we have to even bother troubleshooting it like this, but did your alternatives meet the HDMI 2.1 standard (on Amazon, this is usually called "8K, 48Gbps" support)? I wonder if that isn't the culprit here. Better that then a mechanical failure with the video out on the console itself obviously.
Yeah my alternative cable I bought to be used with my 4k cable box a couple years ago when I bought the original C9. I don't actually have a way to back anything up, but there also isn't a ton on my Series X that I would need to re-download in the scheme of things if I did do a factory reset. I don't want to go there yet because maybe it's just a series of settings that I'm missing on the LG that don't play nice with the Series X, but it's just so hard to find an answer. That's the most surprising thing about this. The only answer I've seen is sending in for a replacement from Microsoft, but I didn't find a good response that said it was 100% fixed by doing that and it just seems so dumb. Also the same as doing a factory reset.
Unless I'm misunderstanding you, the most obvious thing that comes to mind is that any HDMI cable you would've bought back when the C9 was new (LG rolled out their C2 televisions earlier this year--so if you're not keeping track of their dumb naming schema, that's the C2, the C1 (mine), the CX, and then the C9 before that) almost certainly isn't HDMI 2.1 (a mishap that could easily happen today, if you weren't careful on Amazon or your prefered retailer, much less a few years ago). The replacement cable could be the culprit (even if that seems odds-defying that you'd have the original cable go bad in the first place, Microsoft generally includes the highest-end cable you could possibly need with their consoles, they're just pretty short).
Plus, even if it's not a solution, at least you have a high-end HDMI 2.1 cable. Time was, the actual HDMI certified capabilities of a cable didn't matter (or they did, but if your cable was bad, it would just flat out not work), but that's becoming less and less often the case now.
Maybe I wasn't clear? The C9 is my older OLED tv and the C2 is my new one. I'm using the branded Xbox cable with the C2 but used to have the xbox attached to the C9 before I moved and bought the C2 for the new house. I never had any issues with the C9 and the series X. Just to be sure it wasn't the xbox cable, I tested it out using a different cable I had at the house (this one) which is branded as hdmi 2.1 and still had the same issues. I guess it's possible the xbox cable was ruined during the move, but it doesn't really seem likely?
It's also possible LG did something in the firmware starting with the CX. I do know there are configuration differences with the C9 and the C2 since the gaming mode comes on in a very different way and maybe those differences are what are causing issues. I just know everyone doesn't have this problem since it would be way more widespread otherwise.
edit: The one thing I've seen a number of times are people saying their consoles worked perfectly until they got their new LG tv and then they started having these resolution issues. It's why I was contemplating a factory reset. Obviously I really don't want to do that, but it's an option.
Oh, then I misunderstood you. It's probably not the cables, which leaves the television or the console as the culprit. In my own experience, there's more that could go wrong with the C2 (especially given LG's history of less-than-helpful updates, or that few months were C1's panels didn't support HDMI 2.1 at all until that was fixed with an update) than the console, but you could probably rule that out with a factory reset.
Generally I'd agree with you but people have complained about this with the C1 and the CX. Similar firmware probably though. I think I'll try to see about re-setting the Settings if that's possible. Maybe the xbox is just confused as to the tv it is using and things get messed up in the handshake as a result. Worth a look.
edit: But thanks for responding, I appreciate it. This is such a frustrating problem just because it's so annoying.
That problem is all about the breakdown in communication between the Xbox and the TV, so using different HDMI cables, hooking up to a different input on the TV, using cold boot mode, and only turning on the Xbox if the TV is on already would all have a higher chance at fixing it (or at least mitigating it) than doing a factory reset would.
It's a seemingly random problem with the LG and the Series X though. I tried changing the hdmi cable and it still booted into 640x480 mode. I already have it booting from energy saver mode (the slightly slower one) and I already have the tv on a different input to help the handshake. I just never had this problem on my old C9 so it's just frustrating. I also tried different inputs on the tv and that didn't help either unfortunately. The worst is that there are a number of posts about this problem online but no actual real solutions to it. Just ways to fix it when it happens, but it's utter bullshit that it happens in the first place. The worst is you can change the xbox video options from Auto-Detect to HDMI, I can choose up to 1440p and it boots every time without issues. It's only if I choose auto-detect (which is required for 4k) that I have issues. If it were really a handshake issue, it should have issues regardless. It's baffling and annoying. I only thought about a factory reset if there were some like options on the series x from my old C9 setup that are causing the thing to get confused that it's a new tv. I dunno.
Hopping back to this post, Auto-Detect tells the Xbox to wait for information from the TV and then pick the highest resolution possible from the list of resolutions it provides while picking an explicit resolution tells the Xbox to just output at that resolution, regardless of what the TV supports. The Xbox isn't getting that data from your TV fast enough for its tastes and so it's crapping out and giving up on showing anything but the emergency resolution. In the end it's both LG's fault for that data getting sent out late and Microsoft's fault for not updating their resolution when it finally arrives (assuming it does).
Just based on experience with LG televisions--and how frequently consoles, including the Xbox, get bug fixes by comparison--I really wouldn't rule out a factory reset of the television either (which we've actually alluded to in this thread for the black-frame insertion bug that existed on the C2 sets specifically)).
That problem is all about the breakdown in communication between the Xbox and the TV, so using different HDMI cables, hooking up to a different input on the TV, using cold boot mode, and only turning on the Xbox if the TV is on already would all have a higher chance at fixing it (or at least mitigating it) than doing a factory reset would.
It's a seemingly random problem with the LG and the Series X though. I tried changing the hdmi cable and it still booted into 640x480 mode. I already have it booting from energy saver mode (the slightly slower one) and I already have the tv on a different input to help the handshake. I just never had this problem on my old C9 so it's just frustrating. I also tried different inputs on the tv and that didn't help either unfortunately. The worst is that there are a number of posts about this problem online but no actual real solutions to it. Just ways to fix it when it happens, but it's utter bullshit that it happens in the first place. The worst is you can change the xbox video options from Auto-Detect to HDMI, I can choose up to 1440p and it boots every time without issues. It's only if I choose auto-detect (which is required for 4k) that I have issues. If it were really a handshake issue, it should have issues regardless. It's baffling and annoying. I only thought about a factory reset if there were some like options on the series x from my old C9 setup that are causing the thing to get confused that it's a new tv. I dunno.
Hopping back to this post, Auto-Detect tells the Xbox to wait for information from the TV and then pick the highest resolution possible from the list of resolutions it provides while picking an explicit resolution tells the Xbox to just output at that resolution, regardless of what the TV supports. The Xbox isn't getting that data from your TV fast enough for its tastes and so it's crapping out and giving up on showing anything but the emergency resolution. In the end it's both LG's fault for that data getting sent out late and Microsoft's fault for not updating their resolution when it finally arrives (assuming it does).
This is really interesting and I think the issue must be the communication between the two. Because you can get the xbox to fix itself (eventually) by messing with settings in the xbox or messing with settings on the tv, but it doesn't always work. Meaning it's not even the timing of the communication but rather some issue with the communication itself.
edit: I mostly keep posting about it with the hope that someone will have some miraculous idea and it will fix the problem. It happened again this morning and fiddling with the input settings (manual vs hdmi) caused it to be fixed.
In case anyone is interested, Amazon has the physical Xbox One version of Tales of Arise for $19.99.
It's a good enough release on Xbox One, but I'm pretty sure it will also get you the Xbox Series release as necessary (though you'll be downloading it separately); I already bought the digital release on sale.
Nier Replicant is substantially discounted, a good reason to finally pull the trigger in my case.
Tales of Arise is the only game I know that doesn't do smart delivery, so the XB1 and XSX versions are entirely separate.
(I almost got really confused here.)
But yes, there are separate demos (Xbox One and Xbox Series) as well. The Quarry was the same way (with the Xbox Series release being $10 more expensive, Playstation style); you can actually have both versions installed simultaneously, if you have the licenses, and there's a chance their saves aren't compatible either.
So you guys had me worried, however the physical version is NOT like the digital. I think it’s because both are the same price, or Namco aren’t a bunch of dicks. I put Xbox One, but it’s the Xbox version and the top right corner says Xbox Series X. Top left states Series X and Xbox One. So you get both when you purchase it physically.
So you guys had me worried, however the physical version is NOT like the digital. I think it’s because both are the same price, or Namco aren’t a bunch of dicks. I put Xbox One, but it’s the Xbox version and the top right corner says Xbox Series X. Top left states Series X and Xbox One. So you get both when you purchase it physically.
Generally speaking, if they are selling separate physical releases between generations, Playstation-style, they have to advertise this for obvious reasons. Even if they cost the same amount.
The Quarry has done this (there's also a $10 price difference). In fact, when I went to Gamestop on the third, they accidentally gave me the Xbox One disc with an Xbox Series case; once I brought it back, they gave me a sealed Xbox Series case instead.
However, with the decline of physical media in general, and Xbox's Smart Delivery policy, it seems a lot more common for modern titles that have Xbox One and Xbox Series versions to just be branded "Xbox", and not advertise them separately. Unless the developer decides to be, well, a dick about it, it is safely assumed that the physical media is good for either. For example, Resident Evil 2 and 3 came out as physical releases before the Xbox Series was released; when the Xbox Series enhancement came out a few weeks ago, it was given as a free update. There is only one physical release of either game.
Since we're nearly two years into the current console generation, but looking at unprecedented cross-platform releases, it's not uncommon for Xbox releases to be branded "Xbox Series" (usually "Xbox Series X", but every single one of these games also runs on Xbox Series S hardware...except Series S doesn't have a disc drive anyway), but to also feature and Xbox One version. If you haven't gotten the current hardware, you can buy these games, play the Xbox One version, and bide your time like a smart consumer™.
But there are more and more Xbox Series games that aren't available on Xbox One (Flight Simulator for example). That's going to take a while since they sold near 50 million Xbox One consoles, but it's going to happen.
The "tricky" part is that every Xbox One game you buy, that doesn't use the Kinect, runs on Xbox Series hardware (and even those do, you'll just have no way of using the Kinect as it was retired). But whether they are updated to take advantage of the Xbox Series hardware is a separate matter entirely. Microsoft can encourage developers use the Smart Delivery model, and limit a game to one particularly software release that gets updated to whatever the best hardware available is, but they can't force third-party developers to do it obviously.
The ever helpful MVG posted a video about this topic in terms of what the disc was actually being used for, across two hardware generations (though as long as you have the internet, that matters less to you).
So you guys had me worried, however the physical version is NOT like the digital. I think it’s because both are the same price, or Namco aren’t a bunch of dicks. I put Xbox One, but it’s the Xbox version and the top right corner says Xbox Series X. Top left states Series X and Xbox One. So you get both when you purchase it physically.
You just have to be careful because (for Tales of Arise at least) it’s a separate disc for each version, and the first preowned copy I bought was missing the Series disc
Thankfully I was able to get it swapped
XBL - Foreverender | 3DS FC - 1418 6696 1012 | Steam ID | LoL
A reenactment of how the final boss went after getting all the other achievements first. https://youtu.be/I4P2N5fyqbo
I uh... found all the souvenirs and lore books.
One thing I have to give Morta over Hades, Hades demands a level of controller intensity that actually broke my first Series controller. Morta is laughably gentle by comparison.
Remember Dev Mode on Xbox One and Xbox Series? It's still there, and DF has done a piece on the absolutely mad lads who've got working authentic Windows 98 software emulation on it.
Yes, if you put the work in, you can turn your Xbox Series X (or S) into a mid-1990s gaming PC with an underpowered Voodoo 1-style 3D accelerator and an extremely overpowered Pentium CPU.
Xbox Series: the only console where you can play Half-Life, Quake 2, and Command and Conquer: Tiberium Sun.
SRIV continues in fits and starts. Difficult to say where I am in the game but I just ran in to Matt Miller. I've run around and done nearly every available open world activity. Trying to rack up challenges along the way. And I'm looking at Genki's MOM Hard and wondering what the fucking point of living is.
No native mouse support is kind of killer at the moment. Seems like that's basically down to the Retroarch devs though.
There's a lot of things that could keep RetroArch from taking advantage of the full GPU, but yeah, mouse support (when keyboard support works) is probably up to them.
Interstate '76 on Xbox Series (via Win98)? The dream is real!
Time to flip on those mirror shades and become Groove Champion once again. "Hey Stampede, how about a poem?"
...I just realised that the time from when that game is set - the titular 1976 - to when it came out in 1997 is far, far less than the age of the game now. Covering that span of time now we'd need Interstate '01. Fuck I'm old.
Playing darkness 2 after darkness 1 and man 2 is so polished in comparison, much more focussed and the cel shading holds up way better. The combat is just a million times better too, throwing car doors to slice dudes in half, or impaling them onto walls by hurling steel rebar at them. Brutal
Interstate '76 on Xbox Series (via Win98)? The dream is real!
Time to flip on those mirror shades and become Groove Champion once again. "Hey Stampede, how about a poem?"
...I just realised that the time from when that game is set - the titular 1976 - to when it came out in 1997 is far, far less than the age of the game now. Covering that span of time now we'd need Interstate '01. Fuck I'm old.
I finally got tired of waiting for it to show up in other places (backwards compatibility, back in storefronts, SOMETHING) so when I got the itch to play the Transformers War for Cybertron games, I finally started digging out the 360.. I got sidetracked by all of my Xbox stuff being under a video project I was supposed to do for my parents back in 2016, so I figured I should finally get around to it since we're all not as young as we used to be. (it was to digitize old VHS home movies). Anywho, several hours later, I dig out my 360, get it all hooked up and even on the internet so it can update.. and the little bastard cannot read discs, be they 360, oXbox or DVD.
Nice to be shafted by Microsoft's 360 era hardware quality just one more time before I die. You got me again, you fuckers!
The most annoying part is now I have no way of legally playing these games I own because I can't even rebuy them digitally.
Funnily enough, I still haven't clipped the doomsday capacitor in my OG Xbox. I really need to get on that before it pops and kills that machine too.
This is the second time I've heard about this capacitor and I'm scared I'll prob have to do it too and I have no clue how
Thankfully you don't have to replace it for the Xbox to work, it just powers the clock, so as long as your okay with resetting the oxbox's clock every time it gets turned off, you don't need it.
Anywho, several hours later, I dig out my 360, get it all hooked up and even on the internet so it can update.. and the little bastard cannot read discs, be they 360, oXbox or DVD.
Try cleaning/replacing the little drive belt that spins the disc spindle. It's the main problem on my old Elite. It's pretty easy to pop off and replace being in the front and there should be videos or pics around to show you what to do.
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That really was such a weird omission. I ended up grabbing Ezio Collection in a sale a while back too; it's as half-assed a remaster as any has ever been but it's still a step up.
Steam | XBL
Could you move all your game installations onto external storage? It wouldn't be fast, but it would be faster than redownloading probably.
On the upside, now if I buy them, I don't have to worry about feeling like a dope if it shows up on the next month's GWG.
Like Mega Man Legends? Then check out my story, Legends of the Halcyon Era - An Adventure in the World of Mega Man Legends on TMMN and AO3!
Is Ninja Gaiden Sigma or Ninja Gaiden Black the better version of the game. I get conflicting views everywhere I look
Sigma has some extra content, but most people would say Black, as Sigma is considered a flawed port in some ways. If you're unfamiliar with both, "the one you can play for free on Game Pass" is a good choice.
I'll pick up a copy of black on the store. THANK YOU.
Of course this is asked while I'm not looking. I spent the extended weekend busy with The Quarry and Resident Evil 3 and fixing Skyrim.
1) Ninja Gaiden Black is almost the perfect action game, made closer to perfect via an amazing implementation in the backwards compatibility library (though this is less obvious if you're playing it on Xbox One rather than higher end hardware, since you'll miss the big resolution bump). But it's still an eighteen year old game that feels like a ten year old one. It's pretty similar to looking at a much more polished version of the original Devil May Cry and invariably comparing it to DMC5; it is very clearly a product that belongs to 2004, though very forward looking in gameplay, and a technological powerhouse. That might be a positive, or it might be a turnoff, but even then...
2) Ninja Gaiden Sigma has a lot of those same flaws (for example, an adversarial, old-style camera), on top of others due to its status as an "imperfect" port. By virtue of being an early Playstation 3 game--a full console generation later--it features some additional particle effects, but a lot of these will actually come down to artistic preference. I would actually say this is its bigger advantage (some of the modest changes to character models are welcome--Rachel and Ayane have more human-looking faces when the game was striving for a difficult-to-achieve photorealistic aesthetic, Ryu would too if it wasn't for the fact that his face is almost entirely covered the whole game), along with the added content (playing as Rachel in bonus chapters, and additional challenge arenas). It also has some obvious flaws; in taking Ninja Gaiden and turning it the best PS3 action game up to that point, the games controls are permanently bound to a setup that feels more natural on Dualshock 3 than any Xbox gamepad (maybe a plus for people coming from Playstation, but a negative otherwise), and the PS3-era UI is not doing the game any favors even compared to what it replaced. Certain gameplay aspects are deliberately weakened to be more forgiving to the player, though if NGB's challenge was too much, this is probably a good thing. It is, far and away, much less defective than Sigma 2, which is pretty universally panned as big step backwards (and potentially not even that much easier). At least it has achievements, if that sort of thing matters enough to you (it was a motivator for me buying the games on sale).
It says something about the state of Playstation 3 development at the time that what was, for a short window, the best action game on that platform having both advantages and disadvantages versus its updated Xbox release a few years earlier. Of course, if you're playing this on Xbox Series S, the fact that NGB is available for purchase in physical form isn't an advantage anymore (though NGS requires you purchase all three titles, the other two of which I don't think are actually worth playing ultimately).
It's a seemingly random problem with the LG and the Series X though. I tried changing the hdmi cable and it still booted into 640x480 mode. I already have it booting from energy saver mode (the slightly slower one) and I already have the tv on a different input to help the handshake. I just never had this problem on my old C9 so it's just frustrating. I also tried different inputs on the tv and that didn't help either unfortunately. The worst is that there are a number of posts about this problem online but no actual real solutions to it. Just ways to fix it when it happens, but it's utter bullshit that it happens in the first place. The worst is you can change the xbox video options from Auto-Detect to HDMI, I can choose up to 1440p and it boots every time without issues. It's only if I choose auto-detect (which is required for 4k) that I have issues. If it were really a handshake issue, it should have issues regardless. It's baffling and annoying. I only thought about a factory reset if there were some like options on the series x from my old C9 setup that are causing the thing to get confused that it's a new tv. I dunno.
A factory reset is a go-to solution for these sort of problems. It doesn't always work, but it very seldom makes things worse. Back up all your game installations on external storage first, obviously.
On the whole, I've found that LG OLED panels (this is probably also true about their Nanocell LED televisions, but those are frankly just worse versions of the LCD panels you could get from Samsung to start) have a lot of compatibility issues that are infuriating. However, most of them pertain to HDMI-CEC; I've had one or two occasions where the console tried to force my LG C1 into a very low resolution (in my case, due to DVD playback in a format that the console supported, but the television did not). If you're getting this issue with the high-end HDMI cable that came with your console, then that's definitely a bad sign (I had PC issues where trying to turn on HDR with a RTX 3080-equipped PC connected directly to the LG C1 would cause it to default to 640x480 or possibly 800x600; the solution turned out to be a better cable), possibly relating to a defective cable. It sucks that we have to even bother troubleshooting it like this, but did your alternatives meet the HDMI 2.1 standard (on Amazon, this is usually called "8K, 48Gbps" support)? I wonder if that isn't the culprit here. Better that then a mechanical failure with the video out on the console itself obviously.
Yeah my alternative cable I bought to be used with my 4k cable box a couple years ago when I bought the original C9. I don't actually have a way to back anything up, but there also isn't a ton on my Series X that I would need to re-download in the scheme of things if I did do a factory reset. I don't want to go there yet because maybe it's just a series of settings that I'm missing on the LG that don't play nice with the Series X, but it's just so hard to find an answer. That's the most surprising thing about this. The only answer I've seen is sending in for a replacement from Microsoft, but I didn't find a good response that said it was 100% fixed by doing that and it just seems so dumb. Also the same as doing a factory reset.
Unless I'm misunderstanding you, the most obvious thing that comes to mind is that any HDMI cable you would've bought back when the C9 was new (LG rolled out their C2 televisions earlier this year--so if you're not keeping track of their dumb naming schema, that's the C2, the C1 (mine), the CX, and then the C9 before that) almost certainly isn't HDMI 2.1 (a mishap that could easily happen today, if you weren't careful on Amazon or your prefered retailer, much less a few years ago). The replacement cable could be the culprit (even if that seems odds-defying that you'd have the original cable go bad in the first place, Microsoft generally includes the highest-end cable you could possibly need with their consoles, they're just pretty short).
Plus, even if it's not a solution, at least you have a high-end HDMI 2.1 cable. Time was, the actual HDMI certified capabilities of a cable didn't matter (or they did, but if your cable was bad, it would just flat out not work), but that's becoming less and less often the case now.
Maybe I wasn't clear? The C9 is my older OLED tv and the C2 is my new one. I'm using the branded Xbox cable with the C2 but used to have the xbox attached to the C9 before I moved and bought the C2 for the new house. I never had any issues with the C9 and the series X. Just to be sure it wasn't the xbox cable, I tested it out using a different cable I had at the house (this one) which is branded as hdmi 2.1 and still had the same issues. I guess it's possible the xbox cable was ruined during the move, but it doesn't really seem likely?
It's also possible LG did something in the firmware starting with the CX. I do know there are configuration differences with the C9 and the C2 since the gaming mode comes on in a very different way and maybe those differences are what are causing issues. I just know everyone doesn't have this problem since it would be way more widespread otherwise.
edit: The one thing I've seen a number of times are people saying their consoles worked perfectly until they got their new LG tv and then they started having these resolution issues. It's why I was contemplating a factory reset. Obviously I really don't want to do that, but it's an option.
Oh, then I misunderstood you. It's probably not the cables, which leaves the television or the console as the culprit. In my own experience, there's more that could go wrong with the C2 (especially given LG's history of less-than-helpful updates, or that few months were C1's panels didn't support HDMI 2.1 at all until that was fixed with an update) than the console, but you could probably rule that out with a factory reset.
Generally I'd agree with you but people have complained about this with the C1 and the CX. Similar firmware probably though. I think I'll try to see about re-setting the Settings if that's possible. Maybe the xbox is just confused as to the tv it is using and things get messed up in the handshake as a result. Worth a look.
edit: But thanks for responding, I appreciate it. This is such a frustrating problem just because it's so annoying.
Hopping back to this post, Auto-Detect tells the Xbox to wait for information from the TV and then pick the highest resolution possible from the list of resolutions it provides while picking an explicit resolution tells the Xbox to just output at that resolution, regardless of what the TV supports. The Xbox isn't getting that data from your TV fast enough for its tastes and so it's crapping out and giving up on showing anything but the emergency resolution. In the end it's both LG's fault for that data getting sent out late and Microsoft's fault for not updating their resolution when it finally arrives (assuming it does).
This is really interesting and I think the issue must be the communication between the two. Because you can get the xbox to fix itself (eventually) by messing with settings in the xbox or messing with settings on the tv, but it doesn't always work. Meaning it's not even the timing of the communication but rather some issue with the communication itself.
edit: I mostly keep posting about it with the hope that someone will have some miraculous idea and it will fix the problem. It happened again this morning and fiddling with the input settings (manual vs hdmi) caused it to be fixed.
It's a good enough release on Xbox One, but I'm pretty sure it will also get you the Xbox Series release as necessary (though you'll be downloading it separately); I already bought the digital release on sale.
Nier Replicant is substantially discounted, a good reason to finally pull the trigger in my case.
(I almost got really confused here.)
But yes, there are separate demos (Xbox One and Xbox Series) as well. The Quarry was the same way (with the Xbox Series release being $10 more expensive, Playstation style); you can actually have both versions installed simultaneously, if you have the licenses, and there's a chance their saves aren't compatible either.
Generally speaking, if they are selling separate physical releases between generations, Playstation-style, they have to advertise this for obvious reasons. Even if they cost the same amount.
The Quarry has done this (there's also a $10 price difference). In fact, when I went to Gamestop on the third, they accidentally gave me the Xbox One disc with an Xbox Series case; once I brought it back, they gave me a sealed Xbox Series case instead.
However, with the decline of physical media in general, and Xbox's Smart Delivery policy, it seems a lot more common for modern titles that have Xbox One and Xbox Series versions to just be branded "Xbox", and not advertise them separately. Unless the developer decides to be, well, a dick about it, it is safely assumed that the physical media is good for either. For example, Resident Evil 2 and 3 came out as physical releases before the Xbox Series was released; when the Xbox Series enhancement came out a few weeks ago, it was given as a free update. There is only one physical release of either game.
Since we're nearly two years into the current console generation, but looking at unprecedented cross-platform releases, it's not uncommon for Xbox releases to be branded "Xbox Series" (usually "Xbox Series X", but every single one of these games also runs on Xbox Series S hardware...except Series S doesn't have a disc drive anyway), but to also feature and Xbox One version. If you haven't gotten the current hardware, you can buy these games, play the Xbox One version, and bide your time like a smart consumer™.
But there are more and more Xbox Series games that aren't available on Xbox One (Flight Simulator for example). That's going to take a while since they sold near 50 million Xbox One consoles, but it's going to happen.
The "tricky" part is that every Xbox One game you buy, that doesn't use the Kinect, runs on Xbox Series hardware (and even those do, you'll just have no way of using the Kinect as it was retired). But whether they are updated to take advantage of the Xbox Series hardware is a separate matter entirely. Microsoft can encourage developers use the Smart Delivery model, and limit a game to one particularly software release that gets updated to whatever the best hardware available is, but they can't force third-party developers to do it obviously.
The ever helpful MVG posted a video about this topic in terms of what the disc was actually being used for, across two hardware generations (though as long as you have the internet, that matters less to you).
You just have to be careful because (for Tales of Arise at least) it’s a separate disc for each version, and the first preowned copy I bought was missing the Series disc
Thankfully I was able to get it swapped
XBL - Foreverender | 3DS FC - 1418 6696 1012 | Steam ID | LoL
Control. Control not only doesn't do smart delivery, but saves aren't cross-compatible.
(The boss is the large purple guy exploding)
A reenactment of how the final boss went after getting all the other achievements first.
I uh... found all the souvenirs and lore books.
One thing I have to give Morta over Hades, Hades demands a level of controller intensity that actually broke my first Series controller. Morta is laughably gentle by comparison.
The series of gamerscore crimes continues.
Yes, if you put the work in, you can turn your Xbox Series X (or S) into a mid-1990s gaming PC with an underpowered Voodoo 1-style 3D accelerator and an extremely overpowered Pentium CPU.
Xbox Series: the only console where you can play Half-Life, Quake 2, and Command and Conquer: Tiberium Sun.
There's a lot of things that could keep RetroArch from taking advantage of the full GPU, but yeah, mouse support (when keyboard support works) is probably up to them.
Time to flip on those mirror shades and become Groove Champion once again. "Hey Stampede, how about a poem?"
Steam | XBL
I'm a storm torrent across a slate grey sea...
Nice to be shafted by Microsoft's 360 era hardware quality just one more time before I die. You got me again, you fuckers!
The most annoying part is now I have no way of legally playing these games I own because I can't even rebuy them digitally.
Funnily enough, I still haven't clipped the doomsday capacitor in my OG Xbox. I really need to get on that before it pops and kills that machine too.
Thankfully you don't have to replace it for the Xbox to work, it just powers the clock, so as long as your okay with resetting the oxbox's clock every time it gets turned off, you don't need it.
Here's a guide talking about it in more detail, though I dunno how good their removal guide is.
https://consolemods.org/wiki/Xbox:Clock_Capacitor
Try cleaning/replacing the little drive belt that spins the disc spindle. It's the main problem on my old Elite. It's pretty easy to pop off and replace being in the front and there should be videos or pics around to show you what to do.