I've been getting back into making minis and I'm wondering where to start with some tools. My local tabletop shop has a ton of stuff, one thing that caught my eye was a set of 3 Army Painter brushes for about 12 dollars. Anyone know of the quality of their tools? Thanks!
Hardboard will still warp if you're not careful with it, esp. if you like somewhere with a lot of humidity. Getting the stuff that's sealed on one side will help, and giving it a coat of an oil based sealant/primer after you're done shaping it will effectively prevent it.
It also has a nice, sturdy heft to it, which makes it less likely to slide around on the table. For thin basing, it's hard to beat outside of something like expanded PVC sheeting. (also very nice and very sturdy, a bit easier to work with, but it costs more and is difficult to find in brick& mortar stores.)
If you want something with a bit more slope/thickness to it, polystyrene floor insulation sheeting is available from your local DIY store in MASSIVE sheets for very cheap. (~$15) Two or three sheets and you can quite literally make a full custom table, even just one will keep you busy for a while. I still recommend backing it with the hardboard to protect the edges from dings and dents and to keep it stable.
Leper on
If my role play is hindered by rolling to play, then I'd prefer the rolls play right, instead of steam-rolling play-night.
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valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
I'm almost finished with another terminator. There is a world of difference for me between having a job ahead of me, and having one I feel I can finish soon. I am much more likely to keep working if I feel like I'm accomplishing something.
And I was right. The other terminators are easier than the sergeant was. A lot less detail.
I am trying to get as close to the purplish color you see here with GW paints as possible (without having to mix or blend paints because I will fail at that due to the fact I am colorblind and a painting newb).
I've tried Xereus (sp) and Genestealer Purple, neither were very close at all. Any ideas which paint I should try next?
HexDex on
If you are reading this add me.
D3: HexDex#1281, PSN: DireOtter, Live: DireOtter
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
I'd say if you want something specific look at other paint ranges. I know I tried about a million ways to do red for my Blood Ravens using Vallejo and/or GW paints and various techniques of washing, mixing, and blending. Then I bought a Reaper red triad and it was exactly what I wanted right out of the bottle.
In other news, I'm trying to consolidate my workspace for a number of reasons, most notable space and focus. I need a paint storage solution that isn't just a drawer or a box since I have absolute fucktons of paint and additives. A wall-mounted rack of some sort would be ideal. Any suggestions?
I am trying to get as close to the purplish color you see here with GW paints as possible (without having to mix or blend paints because I will fail at that due to the fact I am colorblind and a painting newb).
I've tried Xereus (sp) and Genestealer Purple, neither were very close at all. Any ideas which paint I should try next?
I am trying to get as close to the purplish color you see here with GW paints as possible (without having to mix or blend paints because I will fail at that due to the fact I am colorblind and a painting newb).
I've tried Xereus (sp) and Genestealer Purple, neither were very close at all. Any ideas which paint I should try next?
Vallejo Model Color: Violet might be close.
If I'm reading their color chart correctly, their violet is an ink, it does look about the right color though.
Maybe try their extra opaque "Heavy Violet", it looks about right.
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
I am trying to get as close to the purplish color you see here with GW paints as possible (without having to mix or blend paints because I will fail at that due to the fact I am colorblind and a painting newb).
I've tried Xereus (sp) and Genestealer Purple, neither were very close at all. Any ideas which paint I should try next?
Vallejo Model Color: Violet might be close.
If I'm reading their color chart correctly, their violet is an ink, it does look about the right color though.
Maybe try their extra opaque "Heavy Violet", it looks about right.
He said Model Color, not Game Color; they're different ranges.† That said, VGC "heavy violet" is probably exactly the same paint as VMC Violet; their "heavy" game colours are the same formula as their model colour range.
Speaking of model color, Blue Violet‡ (next to violet in the rack) might be a better match; it's kinda hard to tell from colour charts that are restricted to the colour gamut available to your monitor.
† Vallejo make several paint ranges, but each paint can be uniquely identified by its code: VGC Violet (ink) is 72.087 and VGC Heavy Violet is 72.142 while VMC Violet is 70.960. ‡ VMC Blue Violet is 70.811
I'd say if you want something specific look at other paint ranges. I know I tried about a million ways to do red for my Blood Ravens using Vallejo and/or GW paints and various techniques of washing, mixing, and blending. Then I bought a Reaper red triad and it was exactly what I wanted right out of the bottle.
In other news, I'm trying to consolidate my workspace for a number of reasons, most notable space and focus. I need a paint storage solution that isn't just a drawer or a box since I have absolute fucktons of paint and additives. A wall-mounted rack of some sort would be ideal. Any suggestions?
Seriously, I think a spice rack or something that you can mount on the wall would be ideal.
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-Loki-Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining.Registered Userregular
edited August 2013
Back2Base-ix 'The Rack'. Loads of extensions in the link, this is a basic setup. They'll do paint racks that hold old and new GW pots, Vallejo sized droppers, P3 pots, etc. Just select which type for each rack section.
I wish I had the space to set up a permanent desk with that sort of stuff. Alas, I do not, so my 600 yen set of plastic drawers will have to suffice for the paints I actually use. I will need to get a proper storage setup for the airbrush though, and perhaps not spray prime indoors in ridiculous humidity so as to avoid making my kitchen look like a messy cocaine addict got lose.
Tri-Optimum reminds you that there are only one-hundred-sixty-three shopping days until Christmas. Just 1 extra work cycle twice a week will give you the spending money you need to make this holiday a very special one.
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ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
Or, you could make a badass wall mount for the think Loki posted.
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-Loki-Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining.Registered Userregular
That is not a thing they were offering last time I was looking. I may have to look into that further.
Tri-Optimum reminds you that there are only one-hundred-sixty-three shopping days until Christmas. Just 1 extra work cycle twice a week will give you the spending money you need to make this holiday a very special one.
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
I'm just not in a permanent enough position to want to invest in them. I love the cleanliness of it all, but it wouldn't be any more reasonable to have around right now than what sprawls my (pretty small) dining table already.
Also got to borrow my dad's drill yesterday and finally make the holes for magnetizing my bases. I'm so glad I went with this option. Plunking your guys down in a toolbox and not having to care about foam and cutting it out and remembering where every piece is supposed to go or can fit ... It's marvellous.
I am trying to get as close to the purplish color you see here with GW paints as possible (without having to mix or blend paints because I will fail at that due to the fact I am colorblind and a painting newb).
I've tried Xereus (sp) and Genestealer Purple, neither were very close at all. Any ideas which paint I should try next?
Vallejo Model Color: Violet might be close.
If I'm reading their color chart correctly, their violet is an ink, it does look about the right color though.
Maybe try their extra opaque "Heavy Violet", it looks about right.
He said Model Color, not Game Color; they're different ranges.† That said, VGC "heavy violet" is probably exactly the same paint as VMC Violet; their "heavy" game colours are the same formula as their model colour range.
Speaking of model color, Blue Violet‡ (next to violet in the rack) might be a better match; it's kinda hard to tell from colour charts that are restricted to the colour gamut available to your monitor.
† Vallejo make several paint ranges, but each paint can be uniquely identified by its code: VGC Violet (ink) is 72.087 and VGC Heavy Violet is 72.142 while VMC Violet is 70.960. ‡ VMC Blue Violet is 70.811
Ah, so I was reading the chart correctly, I was just reading the wrong chart.
I'm going to blame my mistake on Vallejo for having too many charts and confusing me.
I really still have to recommend you stay away from those above as they are just stupid expensive, especially if you own a electric saw/jigsaw and holesaw for a drill. They laser cut (which if you design yourself and get it done professionally will still come out cheaper), with some metal hardware that woodglue can handle. I mean, if you dont have the time, but have the money, go for it. I just feel like the people in this thread have the creativity from our hobby to solve this issue for just a fuckton cheaper.
I did end up building my own version of the first image above. Did it in like the 2 to 3 hours, and could of done a whole bunch more at the same time but this was just to try and get something done. with buying the tools I came out $100 ahead(if you look at the 200$ set), and I am no handyman, and I have enough scrap to make more to expand.
DiannaoChong on
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
I would build a solution myself but I lack power tools and live in an apartment. Plus the last time I tried to do a similar thing to cut costs - when I built my tabletop - it ended up costing about the same as buying something and it caused me a lot of stress and hassle AND it takes up way too much space.
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
How would you guys go about painting a slab of marble or stone that was on a base? Something that looked like a Roman ruin the figure was standing on. What I've been doing is coming out very uneven and doesn't look good to me.
I made a paint holder out of cardboard. Suuuuper jank looking but effective enough. The thing is only flat cardboard glued on top of each other in an ascending "stadium" style. So the little lip prevents the paint from moving backwards. It serves its purpose until I get a garage to make something nicer in.
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valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
For instance, how would you paint these bases to look like their example pics?
Can anyone point me toward a decent tutorial for doing glow effects? I'm trying to work out how to paint things like glowing runes and light cast on a figure from glowing things they're holding.
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-Loki-Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining.Registered Userregular
I just feel like the people in this thread have the creativity from our hobby to solve this issue for just a fuckton cheaper.
Unless you don't own the power tools, in which case you'll spend just as much, if not more, on decent power tolls you'll hardly use again just to make it. Not everyone has a workbench, jigsaw and power drill with a hole drillbit.
Something else you have to consider is the company is Australian, so for Australians that's not a bad price, and buying the power tools is going to come out much more expensive. Just a case of Americans finally seeing pricing we deal with in Australia.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Well I have a power drill so I just went out and bought a couple of small 24" x 6" x 14" boards, punched where I want the holes to be and drilled one out.
So how accurate is the GW color conversion chart. I ask because according to the chart, dark angels and caliban green are supposed to be substitutes. When I look at them though . . .
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-Loki-Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining.Registered Userregular
edited August 2013
GW's colour conversion chart is bullshit. it was just released to stop a mass panic attack when people realized they wouldn't be able to get the colours they need for their half finished armies and going to compeititors who do 1:1 colour matches to GW's range (like Vallejo or Army Painter). Then when people realized they'd been had, they'd already bought these new paints so why not just stick with them?
That's the only reasoning I cans ee behind the conversion chart, because most of them are bullshit matches that look nothing alike.
I haven't received my Vallejo paints from Amazon yet, but just based on the color chart I found on the Vallejo site, and the fact that they have eye droppers, I will probably be moving over to that line of paints entirely.
Fortunately I am new to this hobby, so only have like $50 invested in GW paints, and no models yet committed to those colors so it will be easy for me to switch.
If you are reading this add me.
D3: HexDex#1281, PSN: DireOtter, Live: DireOtter
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
For instance, how would you paint these bases to look like their example pics?
Since this was kind of glossed over, I feel like the biggest difference between the display pieces and the one your Terminator is on is mostly in the browns and blues. It's a bit hard to tell by the photo, but I'd wager that adding some dirt to them will actually go a long way. It also looks like you're dry-brushing the bricks? I find bricks are a really easy surface to cheat the shit out of with highlights. If you do that on the bottom and then put some grime/weathering over top at the cracks (like in the display picture), I'd expect you to enjoy your results a lot more.
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PSN: ShinyRedKnight Xbox Live: ShinyRedKnight
The Daemon Prince also looks good.
I'm finally finished with my Dark Elf Blood Bowl team!
Maledor Manticores by magot42, on Flickr
Maledor Manticores by magot42, on Flickr
Cardboard?
Styrene sheets?
Where do you obtain the product of your choice?
The answer is hardboard. It's pegboard without the holes. Go to Home Depot/Lowe's.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
It also has a nice, sturdy heft to it, which makes it less likely to slide around on the table. For thin basing, it's hard to beat outside of something like expanded PVC sheeting. (also very nice and very sturdy, a bit easier to work with, but it costs more and is difficult to find in brick& mortar stores.)
If you want something with a bit more slope/thickness to it, polystyrene floor insulation sheeting is available from your local DIY store in MASSIVE sheets for very cheap. (~$15) Two or three sheets and you can quite literally make a full custom table, even just one will keep you busy for a while. I still recommend backing it with the hardboard to protect the edges from dings and dents and to keep it stable.
And I was right. The other terminators are easier than the sergeant was. A lot less detail.
I am trying to get as close to the purplish color you see here with GW paints as possible (without having to mix or blend paints because I will fail at that due to the fact I am colorblind and a painting newb).
I've tried Xereus (sp) and Genestealer Purple, neither were very close at all. Any ideas which paint I should try next?
D3: HexDex#1281, PSN: DireOtter, Live: DireOtter
In other news, I'm trying to consolidate my workspace for a number of reasons, most notable space and focus. I need a paint storage solution that isn't just a drawer or a box since I have absolute fucktons of paint and additives. A wall-mounted rack of some sort would be ideal. Any suggestions?
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
D3: HexDex#1281, PSN: DireOtter, Live: DireOtter
Vallejo Model Color: Violet might be close.
If I'm reading their color chart correctly, their violet is an ink, it does look about the right color though.
Maybe try their extra opaque "Heavy Violet", it looks about right.
He said Model Color, not Game Color; they're different ranges.† That said, VGC "heavy violet" is probably exactly the same paint as VMC Violet; their "heavy" game colours are the same formula as their model colour range.
Speaking of model color, Blue Violet‡ (next to violet in the rack) might be a better match; it's kinda hard to tell from colour charts that are restricted to the colour gamut available to your monitor.
† Vallejo make several paint ranges, but each paint can be uniquely identified by its code: VGC Violet (ink) is 72.087 and VGC Heavy Violet is 72.142 while VMC Violet is 70.960.
‡ VMC Blue Violet is 70.811
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Seriously, I think a spice rack or something that you can mount on the wall would be ideal.
Also got to borrow my dad's drill yesterday and finally make the holes for magnetizing my bases. I'm so glad I went with this option. Plunking your guys down in a toolbox and not having to care about foam and cutting it out and remembering where every piece is supposed to go or can fit ... It's marvellous.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
D3: HexDex#1281, PSN: DireOtter, Live: DireOtter
Ah, so I was reading the chart correctly, I was just reading the wrong chart.
I'm going to blame my mistake on Vallejo for having too many charts and confusing me.
I did end up building my own version of the first image above. Did it in like the 2 to 3 hours, and could of done a whole bunch more at the same time but this was just to try and get something done. with buying the tools I came out $100 ahead(if you look at the 200$ set), and I am no handyman, and I have enough scrap to make more to expand.
Ikea sells wall-mounted spice racks for $4. Done.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Unless you don't own the power tools, in which case you'll spend just as much, if not more, on decent power tolls you'll hardly use again just to make it. Not everyone has a workbench, jigsaw and power drill with a hole drillbit.
Something else you have to consider is the company is Australian, so for Australians that's not a bad price, and buying the power tools is going to come out much more expensive. Just a case of Americans finally seeing pricing we deal with in Australia.
My drill is not up to the task.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I just realised I haven't put up shots of my most recent Infinity models.
That's the only reasoning I cans ee behind the conversion chart, because most of them are bullshit matches that look nothing alike.
Fortunately I am new to this hobby, so only have like $50 invested in GW paints, and no models yet committed to those colors so it will be easy for me to switch.
D3: HexDex#1281, PSN: DireOtter, Live: DireOtter
Since this was kind of glossed over, I feel like the biggest difference between the display pieces and the one your Terminator is on is mostly in the browns and blues. It's a bit hard to tell by the photo, but I'd wager that adding some dirt to them will actually go a long way. It also looks like you're dry-brushing the bricks? I find bricks are a really easy surface to cheat the shit out of with highlights. If you do that on the bottom and then put some grime/weathering over top at the cracks (like in the display picture), I'd expect you to enjoy your results a lot more.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?