For the 1mm I didn't need anything, but then I was just trying to cover a hole rather than lay out a precise line. I wouldn't want to try dealing with the 0.4 without tweezers.
Tri-Optimum reminds you that there are only one-hundred-sixty-three shopping days until Christmas. Just 1 extra work cycle twice a week will give you the spending money you need to make this holiday a very special one.
I have enjoyed following these threads for a couple of years, and appreciate the time you folks put into this and helping others. The pictures have been posted over on the Reaper website, so, some of you may already have seen them. They are for the Warlord game. It is a fantasy skirmish game, but, you can use any figure in their lines for your army. All of these are supposed to be comic book, or fictional, characters. First up, the bad guys, my Frost Giants.
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
Oh god. I have three bases to go, and then I've finished a 5 man terminator squad. What will I do? How will my life have meaning anymore? Without those unfinished terminators sitting on the shelf, how do I go on?
So I guess I'll just buy a non-Badger hose because Badger are right bastards with their own non-standard thread sizes, and a Badger-to-standard adapter for the airbrush.
I had to endure the same bullshit with my compressor and hose. I literally own 3 hoses that either require a fancy adapter for the brush or compressor. Maybe it's because I can't read a label for shit, but I just couldn't find the right combination of adaptors for my Grex air brush. I eventually found the messiah of cables of Amazon - it's a thin, non canvas covered latex line, and it's fairly badass and doesn't kink or leak air. I can rustle up a link to it if you want?
Okay, I got distracted. Here are my good guys for Warlord, the Dwarvengers. These are part of a dwarf army, and only pictures of the ones I modified or converted.
The Hulk, Wolverine my warlord, and Captain America
Thundra, Harry Dresden, and Black Cat
Black Panther, Moon Knight, Batman, Black Knight and Prowler
And, the small based villains I forgot before. Scorpion, Venom and Grim Reaper
Thanks for looking.
+6
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
You get an awesome because it looks really good, but also because WW2 minis are great.
Is that a Warlord plastic German? I've got a bunch of their metal US Paratroopers that I need to get cleaned up for painting.
I had to endure the same bullshit with my compressor and hose. I literally own 3 hoses that either require a fancy adapter for the brush or compressor. Maybe it's because I can't read a label for shit, but I just couldn't find the right combination of adaptors for my Grex air brush. I eventually found the messiah of cables of Amazon - it's a thin, non canvas covered latex line, and it's fairly badass and doesn't kink or leak air. I can rustle up a link to it if you want?
*solidarity brofist*
Go right ahead! If this thread adapter doesn't work I'll say fuck it and shop around for a different hose.
God forbid they actually tell us specs and stuff, can't have things being easy.
I had to endure the same bullshit with my compressor and hose. I literally own 3 hoses that either require a fancy adapter for the brush or compressor. Maybe it's because I can't read a label for shit, but I just couldn't find the right combination of adaptors for my Grex air brush. I eventually found the messiah of cables of Amazon - it's a thin, non canvas covered latex line, and it's fairly badass and doesn't kink or leak air. I can rustle up a link to it if you want?
*solidarity brofist*
Go right ahead! If this thread adapter doesn't work I'll say fuck it and shop around for a different hose.
God forbid they actually tell us specs and stuff, can't have things being easy.
Iwata-Medea Air Hose I know it says Iwata, but it fit my compressor and Grex brush like a champ - a buddy of mine has a badger, and it worked with his really well (it's actually how I discovered it in the first place).
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
You get an awesome because it looks really good, but also because WW2 minis are great.
Is that a Warlord plastic German? I've got a bunch of their metal US Paratroopers that I need to get cleaned up for painting.
Yup. I'm intending to start up Bolt Action and I already had the paints I need from doing my Wehrmacht IG.
Iwata-Medea Air Hose I know it says Iwata, but it fit my compressor and Grex brush like a champ - a buddy of mine has a badger, and it worked with his really well (it's actually how I discovered it in the first place).
Thanks. Yeah, from what I've read all the other major brands use BSP threads, which is the industry standard, while Badger uses metric threads.
Does anyone know if quick release connectors like this one are standard sizes? I have one for the Badger airbrush, so if they're standard size I'll get that one for the hose itself.
...wow, they're hilariously expensive from Amazon UK. Yeah, ordering from US.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
So Army Painter has red, blue, green, and purple inks now.
Iwata-Medea Air Hose I know it says Iwata, but it fit my compressor and Grex brush like a champ - a buddy of mine has a badger, and it worked with his really well (it's actually how I discovered it in the first place).
Thanks. Yeah, from what I've read all the other major brands use BSP threads, which is the industry standard, while Badger uses metric threads.
Does anyone know if quick release connectors like this one are standard sizes? I have one for the Badger airbrush, so if they're standard size I'll get that one for the hose itself.
...wow, they're hilariously expensive from Amazon UK. Yeah, ordering from US.
Grex makes their own, with an additional flow regulator on it - so I can't speak to that one specifically. I can say that a quick release is a luxury - and not really super necessary. I have one, and I use it, but I could easily live without it. The only downside to not using one is occasionally reusing plumbing tape on the threads to keep a seal. After you screw/unscrew the hose/brush so many times, you need to re-do it. Not that big a hassle, mercifully.
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
I, on the other hand, love my quick release as it means I can leave the tank to get up to pressure while i pull the airbrush out of its case and get set up. Saves like 10 minutes prep. I want to get a 3-4 way manifold w/holders though.
Man, I need a holder somethin' fierce. They make bolt on attachements for some compressors so it's easy peasy. Mine has an air tank on it though, so I dunno how it'd work. But I needs one in a bad way.
Also, I need a new airbrush with a lid. I think that's gotta help with paint drying in the cup. It always feels like a race with my current brush.
I think i'm just looking for excuses to spend money now.
So I've been using secret weapon soft body black as a replacement for nuln oil just to test it out. Soft body black has significantly more gloss than nuln oil. I like it better for metals, but it just looks awkward on anything else.
Badger to 1/8BSP, which is apparently what the compressor we all end up buying is. Obviously I had a 1/8BSP hose and those needed something to go between my brush and the hose. I got mine from ebay. Works a treat.
So, I used some Nulin Oil, and I wasn't much happy with it. Granted, I am a total newb, and probably was using it wrong, but what would you guys say is the best general purpose wash? A wash which works with most colors, and is most flexible, if there is such a thing.
If you are reading this add me.
D3: HexDex#1281, PSN: DireOtter, Live: DireOtter
-Loki-Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining.Registered Userregular
edited August 2013
Army painter washes in general.
Army Painter Soft Tone is a Sepia wash. It's almost 1:1 with GW's old Gryphonne Sepia.
Army Painter Strong Tone is a dark brown wash. It's almost 1:1 with GW's old Devlan Mud.
Army Painter Dark Tone is a black wash. It's almost 1:1 with GW's old Badab Black.
All 3 flow better than GW's old washes as well. Do not confuse these with their Dips, which are, well, Dips. Basically floor varnish with stains in them. Their washes are actually acrylic washes.
I am painting Legion. I don't really have a firm idea in mind for what I want this army to look like, so I'm making it up as I'm going along. Plenty of blue and purple though. Give me thoughts on this metal. I think it might be a bit bright, but I do like it. Hrmmmmm.
Okay, I got distracted. Here are my good guys for Warlord, the Dwarvengers. These are part of a dwarf army, and only pictures of the ones I modified or converted.
The Hulk, Wolverine my warlord, and Captain America
Thundra, Harry Dresden, and Black Cat
Black Panther, Moon Knight, Batman, Black Knight and Prowler
And, the small based villains I forgot before. Scorpion, Venom and Grim Reaper
Thanks for looking.
Those are some really good conversions. Especially since you used some of the same models in different conversions and you have done such a great job of making them look different.
Army Painter Soft Tone is a Sepia wash. It's almost 1:1 with GW's old Gryphonne Sepia.
Army Painter Strong Tone is a dark brown wash. It's almost 1:1 with GW's old Devlan Mud.
Army Painter Dark Tone is a black wash. It's almost 1:1 with GW's old Badab Black.
All 3 flow better than GW's old washes as well. Do not confuse these with their Dips, which are, well, Dips. Basically floor varnish with stains in them. Their washes are actually acrylic washes.
Ordered all 3 of those.
Thanks guys!
If you are reading this add me.
D3: HexDex#1281, PSN: DireOtter, Live: DireOtter
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Did I never post my silly easy guide to tarnished bronze or did I keep that one to myself? I forget.
@Asher That metal is excellent, the whole model looks great. Is the purple final? Looks like it is missing highlights.
I'm really excited for my models to show up so I can start painting again. Hopefully the excitement continues even after I start painting. This thread certainly makes me want to dive back in.
I am working on my first army. The process is slow, painful, but also kinda cool and rewarding. The below photos are crap, and the models in them are crap, and still a WIP, but I wanted to share anyway.
For reference. I am colorblind, and I have the creativity of a turnip. So rather than try to come up with something totally original in color scheme, I am stealing blatantly from a cool toy I have which I can adapt and use as reference.
For those of you who forgot from a few pages back, this guy here:
First up is a resin ADL I got from Mr. Dandy, which I found linked in the 40k thread. These are the pieces I used the nulin oil on, which came out terribly. But it's a wall that gets shot at so I suppose in the end, it being ugly as sin doesn't matter much.
Next are my Broadsides which are VERY unfinished, but are coming along much smoother. I will also not be using the oil on those guys, I will probably use the soft tone mentioned a few posts above since I bet the sepia will work better with the beige I have going on.
Anyway, I know they aren't any good, but I figured you guys would get a kick out of watching a newbie enter the hobby and I wanted to share
Thanks for all the help you guys have been so far (and that has been quite a bit) !
HexDex on
If you are reading this add me.
D3: HexDex#1281, PSN: DireOtter, Live: DireOtter
Washes really arent good for slathering all over large flat surfaces as you discovered. Much more effective to paint them into the cracks and crevices manually, cleaning up any slop as you go. The broadsides are looking pretty bitching so far.
+1
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
So for tarnished bronze I think what I did was:
Basecoat a 50/50 mix of Tin Bitz & Runelord Brass
Drybrush Runelord Brash
Wash with Athonian Camoshade
Another Runelord Brass drybrush
Pick out edges and rivets and other places it may have gotten scratched with pure Runelord Brass
Then take some Kabalite Green and thin it down to a wash with matte medium and water. I don't remember the ratio.
Either paint it directly into recesses or wash the whole damn thing.
If you wash the whole damn thing, give it another once-over drybrushing of Runelord Brass
Posts
Where are these Scooby Doo minis from?
http://www.hfminis.co.uk/shop?product=gang-and-dog~hfn016&category=miniatures~modern-non%2dcoms-/-civilians
So I guess I'll just buy a non-Badger hose because Badger are right bastards with their own non-standard thread sizes, and a Badger-to-standard adapter for the airbrush.
I had to endure the same bullshit with my compressor and hose. I literally own 3 hoses that either require a fancy adapter for the brush or compressor. Maybe it's because I can't read a label for shit, but I just couldn't find the right combination of adaptors for my Grex air brush. I eventually found the messiah of cables of Amazon - it's a thin, non canvas covered latex line, and it's fairly badass and doesn't kink or leak air. I can rustle up a link to it if you want?
*solidarity brofist*
Thanks for looking.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
You get an awesome because it looks really good, but also because WW2 minis are great.
Is that a Warlord plastic German? I've got a bunch of their metal US Paratroopers that I need to get cleaned up for painting.
Go right ahead! If this thread adapter doesn't work I'll say fuck it and shop around for a different hose.
God forbid they actually tell us specs and stuff, can't have things being easy.
Iwata-Medea Air Hose I know it says Iwata, but it fit my compressor and Grex brush like a champ - a buddy of mine has a badger, and it worked with his really well (it's actually how I discovered it in the first place).
Yup. I'm intending to start up Bolt Action and I already had the paints I need from doing my Wehrmacht IG.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Thanks. Yeah, from what I've read all the other major brands use BSP threads, which is the industry standard, while Badger uses metric threads.
Does anyone know if quick release connectors like this one are standard sizes? I have one for the Badger airbrush, so if they're standard size I'll get that one for the hose itself.
...wow, they're hilariously expensive from Amazon UK. Yeah, ordering from US.
GUESS WHAT I'M ABOUT TO BUY, GUYS.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Grex makes their own, with an additional flow regulator on it - so I can't speak to that one specifically. I can say that a quick release is a luxury - and not really super necessary. I have one, and I use it, but I could easily live without it. The only downside to not using one is occasionally reusing plumbing tape on the threads to keep a seal. After you screw/unscrew the hose/brush so many times, you need to re-do it. Not that big a hassle, mercifully.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Also, I need a new airbrush with a lid. I think that's gotta help with paint drying in the cup. It always feels like a race with my current brush.
I think i'm just looking for excuses to spend money now.
The Badger 105 (what I got) has one.
Then you too get to have fun making it fit on the hose!
Badger to 1/8BSP, which is apparently what the compressor we all end up buying is. Obviously I had a 1/8BSP hose and those needed something to go between my brush and the hose. I got mine from ebay. Works a treat.
also paint to Tohaa
http://youtu.be/9oXzLM6hhn0
D3: HexDex#1281, PSN: DireOtter, Live: DireOtter
Army Painter Soft Tone is a Sepia wash. It's almost 1:1 with GW's old Gryphonne Sepia.
Army Painter Strong Tone is a dark brown wash. It's almost 1:1 with GW's old Devlan Mud.
Army Painter Dark Tone is a black wash. It's almost 1:1 with GW's old Badab Black.
All 3 flow better than GW's old washes as well. Do not confuse these with their Dips, which are, well, Dips. Basically floor varnish with stains in them. Their washes are actually acrylic washes.
I wanna take that metal out into an alley and get it pregnant
seriously though, tell me how you did it. I wanna do my fantasy chaos warriors up looking like that.
Those are some really good conversions. Especially since you used some of the same models in different conversions and you have done such a great job of making them look different.
Ordered all 3 of those.
Thanks guys!
D3: HexDex#1281, PSN: DireOtter, Live: DireOtter
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
You did, but we're all senile in here. Post it again!
I'm really excited for my models to show up so I can start painting again. Hopefully the excitement continues even after I start painting. This thread certainly makes me want to dive back in.
I am working on my first army. The process is slow, painful, but also kinda cool and rewarding. The below photos are crap, and the models in them are crap, and still a WIP, but I wanted to share anyway.
For reference. I am colorblind, and I have the creativity of a turnip. So rather than try to come up with something totally original in color scheme, I am stealing blatantly from a cool toy I have which I can adapt and use as reference.
For those of you who forgot from a few pages back, this guy here:
First up is a resin ADL I got from Mr. Dandy, which I found linked in the 40k thread. These are the pieces I used the nulin oil on, which came out terribly. But it's a wall that gets shot at so I suppose in the end, it being ugly as sin doesn't matter much.
Next are my Broadsides which are VERY unfinished, but are coming along much smoother. I will also not be using the oil on those guys, I will probably use the soft tone mentioned a few posts above since I bet the sepia will work better with the beige I have going on.
Anyway, I know they aren't any good, but I figured you guys would get a kick out of watching a newbie enter the hobby and I wanted to share
Thanks for all the help you guys have been so far (and that has been quite a bit) !
D3: HexDex#1281, PSN: DireOtter, Live: DireOtter
Basecoat a 50/50 mix of Tin Bitz & Runelord Brass
Drybrush Runelord Brash
Wash with Athonian Camoshade
Another Runelord Brass drybrush
Pick out edges and rivets and other places it may have gotten scratched with pure Runelord Brass
Then take some Kabalite Green and thin it down to a wash with matte medium and water. I don't remember the ratio.
Either paint it directly into recesses or wash the whole damn thing.
If you wash the whole damn thing, give it another once-over drybrushing of Runelord Brass
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705