The drive will only show up properly in the windows disk management if it's been pre-partitioned by the manufacturer.
Samsung drives, in particular, do not. Some others don't as well.
First and foremost, check to see if your BIOS is set to AHCI and not IDE/Compatibility mode or RAID for your SATA disks.
You may have to enter the command line utilities to partition that drive, which is a whole can of crazy if you're not good with partition stuff and command line. There's software you can get to do this for you instead, I'd recommend that. Partition Master has taken this role from Partition Magic in particular for newbies (no idea how good it is though). If you're comfortable with linux, gparted is the go to for this.
Edit: It seems like your system might be in RAID mode? Or you might have 2 ports dedicated to RAID mode and the system put it in RAID0 by default.
bowen on
not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
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KadokenGiving Ends to my Friends and it Feels StupendousRegistered Userregular
you'd be surprised how often "I forgot to plug something in" is the correct problem resolution in a build, even for people who have done many builds over the years.
I put my new computer together a couple of weeks ago. I'd only done it once before, but I'd also read/watched countless resources then and now on how to put one together. I felt pretty confident during the process, but when I first booted it up, it was a no-go. Some weird cryptic behavior that I didn't know how to interpret. Then I realized my mobo had debug lights. Then I realized that the "DRAM" light on the mobo was on.
I didn't push the RAM sticks all the way in.
You know, the simplest thing to do? The thing that comes with an audible and tactile click? The thing I told myself that surely I won't mess up? Yeah, that thing.
(In my defense, I was super-scared of pressing on the sticks too hard for fear to damaging the mother board.)
- Over-tightening the screws that hold the mobo in place.
- Screwing up the CPU/thermal paste/cooler system.
- Plugging anything into the mobo (RAM, PCI card).
- Plugging in a cable at an awkward angle, so it feels like the connector will eventually get wrenched off of the mobo (I get this feeling with SATA cables all the time).
I feel like putting a computer together doesn't really have too many BIG difficulties, but it's just piles and piles of little difficulties heaped together.
My monitor, an Acer G257HU, has had a really bad problem with cutting out, and blacking out, coming on again, blacking out, coming on again, etc. Looking this problem up online, it seems that this may be due to the monitor shipping with an exceedingly poor quality DisplayPort cable. People have fixed this by ordering a new cable or by switching to the DVI cable and port. Surprisingly, male to male DP cables seem to be out of stock at Monoprice, although I can get one from Amazon. Is there any advantage to DP over DVI?
Basically. Except legos usually don't cost a few hundred bucks if they chip or break. PC components are usually 10 to 100 times more expensive.
Also, legos are tougher. The thing is, PC components are actually tougher than they look (mostly because they look like delicate, fragile flowers), but they're no where near as tough as legos.
My monitor, an Acer G257HU, has had a really bad problem with cutting out, and blacking out, coming on again, blacking out, coming on again, etc. Looking this problem up online, it seems that this may be due to the monitor shipping with an exceedingly poor quality DisplayPort cable. People have fixed this by ordering a new cable or by switching to the DVI cable and port. Surprisingly, male to male DP cables seem to be out of stock at Monoprice, although I can get one from Amazon. Is there any advantage to DP over DVI?
Technically, yes. But if you're asking you probably don't need them. So either will work. That have to be one horrible cable, but suppose it could be if it's physically broken inside or something.
Anyone want a Acer XB270HU bprz Black 27'' 144 Hz 1440p monitor? I'm eyeballing the 34"inchers from Acer and ASUS and want to get rid of the one i'm using currently before I pull the trigger.
" I am a warrior, so that my son may be a merchant, so that his son may be a poet.”
― John Quincy Adams
Honestly, I don't think putting together a computer is like putting together Legos. You have a lot of free form creativity available with Legos, but with computer building pretty much everything only goes in one or two places.
Can't really think of a better analogy though... Lincoln Logs maybe?
An entertainment center. It all goes together just so, but fairly straight forward and you could screw it up a little (possibly a lot where it kills your expensive purchase, but not overly likely).
Phanteks includes a seemingly random number of extra screws with their cases, even for screws you could only ever use X number of, like motherboard screws. No one could possibly use more than 8 in this case, but they give you, like, 13. I assume it's their way of being thoughtful in case you lose one, but man, if you've lost 5 motherboard screws, you probably should find a different hobby.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
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Dhalphirdon't you open that trapdooryou're a fool if you dareRegistered Userregular
Just installed a bunch of case fans in the midi tower I put my old hardware into. 2x 120mm inbound front and one outbound in the back. What a difference it makes...
Regard the max values on CPU temps:
Before:
After:
Yes, I know that 93°C is still way too high for a CPU, but these measurements were taken after running the Intel Burn Test on "Very High" stress intensity for about 15 mins. In normal operation, even when rendering, it doesn't get anywhere near that.
I also installed some fans in my big case, so now its cooling consists of two inbound case fans, one 230mm in front and one 140mm in rear, and the 2x120mm fans of my H100i v2 watercooling outbound on top. Unfortunately I didn't take any measurements before the installation, but already the watercooling fans have a much easier time keeping the liquid cool now that there's actual inbound airflow.
As an aside: how much room should there be in front of inbound fans if they're mounted e.g. under the front cover? It seems to me like they're a bit snug right now, with not even 0.5cm room between the fan and the case. There are plenty of mesh-covered air holes on the sides of the front cover, but none on the actual front.
As long as there are no blockages to the fans, the spacing doesn't matter. Otherwise, they should be placed to either draw in or exhaust from the nearest opening.
Honestly, I don't think putting together a computer is like putting together Legos. You have a lot of free form creativity available with Legos, but with computer building pretty much everything only goes in one or two places.
Can't really think of a better analogy though... Lincoln Logs maybe?
A while back I bought a Dell with an i3-6100 and 8gb ram. Dropped a 750ti in it and been playing catch up on years of games.
The problem is the psu is only 240w. The 750ti only draws roughly 75w under load.
I'm looking at gtx 950 cards as a potential upgrade because reviewr state they are also low power cards, drawing about 90w under load.
Went to power supply calculator and it estimated my pc's current draw under load to be 185w.
Would it be bad to bump that up to 200w on a 240w psu or should I just wait a couple years til I can afford a new build? Wish I had researched dell and their proprietary psu/motherboard garbage before the buy but eh
A while back I bought a Dell with an i3-6100 and 8gb ram. Dropped a 750ti in it and been playing catch up on years of games.
The problem is the psu is only 240w. The 750ti only draws roughly 75w under load.
I'm looking at gtx 950 cards as a potential upgrade because reviewr state they are also low power cards, drawing about 90w under load.
Went to power supply calculator and it estimated my pc's current draw under load to be 185w.
Would it be bad to bump that up to 200w on a 240w psu or should I just wait a couple years til I can afford a new build? Wish I had researched dell and their proprietary psu/motherboard garbage before the buy but eh
I would just wait. A lot of Dells use generic ATX PSUs but a lot also don't. You would probably be happier saving your money and getting a 1060 with a brand new build.
That appears to be a normal temperature for that CPU once stress tested. Most CPUs will shut off before damage happens to them, usually that's 110 deg C, IIRC. I'm fairly positive the iX series in particular will thermally throttle the CPU, so once it hits 90 degrees it'll start lowering voltage to keep it within safe temperatures.
not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
I'm speccing out a new PC and I'm torn on the processor
Should I go I5-6600 OR I7 6700?
I only ask because originally I was going to get a GTX 1080 but after some advice from the guys over in the SE++ steam thread, the 1070 gives me more bang for my buck.
I was wondering if the same logic applies to the processor?
Posts
Samsung drives, in particular, do not. Some others don't as well.
First and foremost, check to see if your BIOS is set to AHCI and not IDE/Compatibility mode or RAID for your SATA disks.
You may have to enter the command line utilities to partition that drive, which is a whole can of crazy if you're not good with partition stuff and command line. There's software you can get to do this for you instead, I'd recommend that. Partition Master has taken this role from Partition Magic in particular for newbies (no idea how good it is though). If you're comfortable with linux, gparted is the go to for this.
Edit: It seems like your system might be in RAID mode? Or you might have 2 ports dedicated to RAID mode and the system put it in RAID0 by default.
I never actually plugged in the power cord.
Woooo
Happens a lot. :eek:
you'd be surprised how often "I forgot to plug something in" is the correct problem resolution in a build, even for people who have done many builds over the years.
I didn't push the RAM sticks all the way in.
You know, the simplest thing to do? The thing that comes with an audible and tactile click? The thing I told myself that surely I won't mess up? Yeah, that thing.
(In my defense, I was super-scared of pressing on the sticks too hard for fear to damaging the mother board.)
- Over-tightening the screws that hold the mobo in place.
- Screwing up the CPU/thermal paste/cooler system.
- Plugging anything into the mobo (RAM, PCI card).
- Plugging in a cable at an awkward angle, so it feels like the connector will eventually get wrenched off of the mobo (I get this feeling with SATA cables all the time).
I feel like putting a computer together doesn't really have too many BIG difficulties, but it's just piles and piles of little difficulties heaped together.
pretty much
easier to pull stuff out though, legos sometimes require teeth or fingernails that are herculean in strength to do the job
Just make sure you use a non-conductive glue or you're just asking for trouble.
never worked on the 1x2x1 bricks that were always stuck together
that's fingernail territory
Good luck using the separator tool on those
That's where the opposite flat end of the separator tool comes in.
Basically. Except legos usually don't cost a few hundred bucks if they chip or break. PC components are usually 10 to 100 times more expensive.
Also, legos are tougher. The thing is, PC components are actually tougher than they look (mostly because they look like delicate, fragile flowers), but they're no where near as tough as legos.
Otherwise, similar.
Technically, yes. But if you're asking you probably don't need them. So either will work. That have to be one horrible cable, but suppose it could be if it's physically broken inside or something.
― John Quincy Adams
Can't really think of a better analogy though... Lincoln Logs maybe?
Phanteks includes a seemingly random number of extra screws with their cases, even for screws you could only ever use X number of, like motherboard screws. No one could possibly use more than 8 in this case, but they give you, like, 13. I assume it's their way of being thoughtful in case you lose one, but man, if you've lost 5 motherboard screws, you probably should find a different hobby.
this is where you burn down your entire collection and start again
Regard the max values on CPU temps:
Before:
After:
Yes, I know that 93°C is still way too high for a CPU, but these measurements were taken after running the Intel Burn Test on "Very High" stress intensity for about 15 mins. In normal operation, even when rendering, it doesn't get anywhere near that.
I also installed some fans in my big case, so now its cooling consists of two inbound case fans, one 230mm in front and one 140mm in rear, and the 2x120mm fans of my H100i v2 watercooling outbound on top. Unfortunately I didn't take any measurements before the installation, but already the watercooling fans have a much easier time keeping the liquid cool now that there's actual inbound airflow.
As an aside: how much room should there be in front of inbound fans if they're mounted e.g. under the front cover? It seems to me like they're a bit snug right now, with not even 0.5cm room between the fan and the case. There are plenty of mesh-covered air holes on the sides of the front cover, but none on the actual front.
Unreal Engine 4 Developers Community.
I'm working on a cute little video game! Here's a link for you.
A while back I bought a Dell with an i3-6100 and 8gb ram. Dropped a 750ti in it and been playing catch up on years of games.
The problem is the psu is only 240w. The 750ti only draws roughly 75w under load.
I'm looking at gtx 950 cards as a potential upgrade because reviewr state they are also low power cards, drawing about 90w under load.
Went to power supply calculator and it estimated my pc's current draw under load to be 185w.
Would it be bad to bump that up to 200w on a 240w psu or should I just wait a couple years til I can afford a new build? Wish I had researched dell and their proprietary psu/motherboard garbage before the buy but eh
I would just wait. A lot of Dells use generic ATX PSUs but a lot also don't. You would probably be happier saving your money and getting a 1060 with a brand new build.
Oh no, asus makes a 75w version
That appears to be a normal temperature for that CPU once stress tested. Most CPUs will shut off before damage happens to them, usually that's 110 deg C, IIRC. I'm fairly positive the iX series in particular will thermally throttle the CPU, so once it hits 90 degrees it'll start lowering voltage to keep it within safe temperatures.
Got a question,
I'm speccing out a new PC and I'm torn on the processor
Should I go I5-6600 OR I7 6700?
I only ask because originally I was going to get a GTX 1080 but after some advice from the guys over in the SE++ steam thread, the 1070 gives me more bang for my buck.
I was wondering if the same logic applies to the processor?
I had to google what hyperthreading is for.
I am the old man who yells at clouds now.
i5 all the way.