Has there been any indication of when the prices might fall to MSRP on the GTX 1070s? The 1060s are still going quickly, but seem to have mostly settled at or near MSRP, but not the 1070s, at all.
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SnicketysnickThe Greatest Hype Man inWesterosRegistered Userregular
edited August 2016
1070s won't drop to MSRP for a long time. About the only reason to "drop" them is if the AMD Vega chips (RX490?) in the autumn/winter are competing on the same level, otherwise I can see Nvidia/retailers being perfectly content to gouge away.
as long as people keep buying 1070's (and 1080's) for the prices they are currently being sold at *and* they're selling out at those prices, there is no reason to drop them.
Until either inventory builds and/or demand drops, there's no reason to stop charging the "I must own this now" tax on the cards.
What is the difference between all the manufacturers/version of the 1060? There's at least ten listed on newegg. What are the things I should be looking for?
What is the difference between all the manufacturers/version of the 1060? There's at least ten listed on newegg. What are the things I should be looking for?
A particular company that you like--for example, I'm partial to EVGA because of their build quality and outstanding support in US (in the past they also had lifetime warranties, not so much anymore). Individual companies may also have their own variants with higher base clocks and better coolers (insert your ACX joke here). But if you're brand-agnostic and are fine with the default clockspeeds for a 1060, just fine whoever has the best deal/bundle.
Just a heads up for those of us with brand new 1070s/1080s looking for a new monitor for them to drive, the Acer XB280HK (that's a 60Hz 4k TN panel with G Sync) is on sale for only $500 new on Amazon.
It's tempting me, but I still think I'd rather hold out for the Predator xb271hu, even if I mostly play RPGs and such where the 4k would be more useful than the 144Hz.
Just a heads up for those of us with brand new 1070s/1080s looking for a new monitor for them to drive, the Acer XB280HK (that's a 60Hz 4k TN panel with G Sync) is on sale for only $500 new on Amazon.
It's tempting me, but I still think I'd rather hold out for the Predator xb271hu, even if I mostly play RPGs and such where the 4k would be more useful than the 144Hz.
That's super nice. It's substantially more than I paid for my Acer S277HK, though from what I've heard the display quality is worse (in the area of colors), but an extra inch larger and G-sync.....if I didn't already have one.
It also sounds like the model Amazon's selling isn't IPS (which isn't uncommon for monitors--you'll frequently run into Amazon selling the version of a Samsung monitor that lacks Freesync on sale, rather than the version that does). That being said, still really tempting.
What's the best resource for case fan airflow education
Marty: The future, it's where you're going? Doc: That's right, twenty five years into the future. I've always dreamed on seeing the future, looking beyond my years, seeing the progress of mankind. I'll also be able to see who wins the next twenty-five world series.
What's the best resource for case fan airflow education
I dunno but it's not super complicated. Conventional wisdom is:
- Air should generally move from the front to the back, and from the bottom to the top
- Bigger fans are better (a larger fan can move as much or more air at a lower RPM, meaning better cooling with less noise)
- Positive air pressure inside of a case (having more airflow coming in than coming out) means you'll have less dust in out of the way spots because it won't get sucked in through gaps in your case
- Cable management can help with airflow, so don't have a spaghetti case
- Clean your filters and heatsinks every once in a while, dust impedes cooling ability and looks grooooossssssss
and lastly
- Fans with LEDs are cooler, baby
There's other stuff (like the difference between airflow fans and static pressure fans) and push, pull, and push/pull configurations for radiators and whatnot, but for the most part it's fairly straightforward.
Do you have specific questions for a build, or are you just looking for info for the heck of it?
SmokeStacks on
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That_GuyI don't wanna be that guyRegistered Userregular
Negative pressure in your case could maybe possibly lead to buildup of static electricity. Same wisdom applies for why you don't use a vacuum cleaner on a PC. You're fine until you're not.
And now the Dell S2716DGR (1440p, TN panel, 144Hz, G sync) monitor is on sale on Best Buy for $450. That is super tempting since the TN panel on that one is supposed to be pretty good and I've never had an IPS before and doubt I'd see the difference unless they were right next to each other. I want to hold out for that Predator but no way is it going to ever be that cheap.
I'm headed to my mom's place next week and I need to replace the hard drives in the computer she/we're using basically as a NAS. I'm gunna pick up a bunch of WD Reds, but I'm not entirely sure how to go about bulk transferring from the existing drives (some of which are apparently dying) to the new drives. Does anyone have any recommendations on cloning software?
Since I'm going to have access to a Microcenter while I'm there I'm tempted to just build a new system. Since its mainly used for document storage and video playback (I ripped a bunch of our dvds to it and there are a bunch of family/vacation photos and videos on it) I dont need anything too powerful, but I'm not exactly opposed to being able to do a little bit of gaming on it . If I go through Microcenter I can grab a Pentium G4400 for $50, or an i3 6100 for $109 (with $30/off if I buy a compatible motherboard). Is the 6100 worth the extra $30?
*annoyingly (but I guess understandably) it looks like you only get one of the $30/off when buying a CPU/mobo
Here's what I need help with:
Case: I think I need a traditional mid tower, but if I can get a cheap
GPU: GTX 570 - free; I'm not fundamentally opposed to going with something newer, but I'd like to keep costs low. I'm already higher than I want to be, but thats due to the HDDs which are non-negotiable.
I've basically only looked at Microcenter and Amazon, but its just dawned on me that I can do pick ups at Newegg. Do they do same day pickups or does it take them a couple of days to "package" things. Part of the reason I'm thinking Microcenter/Amazon is because I should be able to order this weekend and have the parts by the time I'm in SoCal.
What's the best resource for case fan airflow education
I dunno but it's not super complicated. Conventional wisdom is:
- Air should generally move from the front to the back, and from the bottom to the top
- Bigger fans are better (a larger fan can move as much or more air at a lower RPM, meaning better cooling with less noise)
- Positive air pressure inside of a case (having more airflow coming in than coming out) means you'll have less dust in out of the way spots because it won't get sucked in through gaps in your case
- Cable management can help with airflow, so don't have a spaghetti case
- Clean your filters and heatsinks every once in a while, dust impedes cooling ability and looks grooooossssssss
and lastly
- Fans with LEDs are cooler, baby
There's other stuff (like the difference between airflow fans and static pressure fans) and push, pull, and push/pull configurations for radiators and whatnot, but for the most part it's fairly straightforward.
Do you have specific questions for a build, or are you just looking for info for the heck of it?
I'd like to know the difference between airflow and static pressure and how to tell, since I have a radiator and only 2 140mm fans. I set em up for push.
by the way, I built the computer. Ran on 2nd power button press because the power supply connector wasn't fully pushed in.
I really need to do something about those cables but I'm lazy
Marty: The future, it's where you're going? Doc: That's right, twenty five years into the future. I've always dreamed on seeing the future, looking beyond my years, seeing the progress of mankind. I'll also be able to see who wins the next twenty-five world series.
You can still see a couple on the bottom right there
Marty: The future, it's where you're going? Doc: That's right, twenty five years into the future. I've always dreamed on seeing the future, looking beyond my years, seeing the progress of mankind. I'll also be able to see who wins the next twenty-five world series.
I'm headed to my mom's place next week and I need to replace the hard drives in the computer she/we're using basically as a NAS. I'm gunna pick up a bunch of WD Reds, but I'm not entirely sure how to go about bulk transferring from the existing drives (some of which are apparently dying) to the new drives. Does anyone have any recommendations on cloning software?
Since I'm going to have access to a Microcenter while I'm there I'm tempted to just build a new system. Since its mainly used for document storage and video playback (I ripped a bunch of our dvds to it and there are a bunch of family/vacation photos and videos on it) I dont need anything too powerful, but I'm not exactly opposed to being able to do a little bit of gaming on it . If I go through Microcenter I can grab a Pentium G4400 for $50, or an i3 6100 for $109 (with $30/off if I buy a compatible motherboard). Is the 6100 worth the extra $30?
*annoyingly (but I guess understandably) it looks like you only get one of the $30/off when buying a CPU/mobo
Here's what I need help with:
Case: I think I need a traditional mid tower, but if I can get a cheap
GPU: GTX 570 - free; I'm not fundamentally opposed to going with something newer, but I'd like to keep costs low. I'm already higher than I want to be, but thats due to the HDDs which are non-negotiable.
I've basically only looked at Microcenter and Amazon, but its just dawned on me that I can do pick ups at Newegg. Do they do same day pickups or does it take them a couple of days to "package" things. Part of the reason I'm thinking Microcenter/Amazon is because I should be able to order this weekend and have the parts by the time I'm in SoCal.
WD should have a cloning program. Otherwise, I've used Acronis True Image to positive effect. I'm not sure if they have a free version, but you can typically find a license for under $20
I'm headed to my mom's place next week and I need to replace the hard drives in the computer she/we're using basically as a NAS. I'm gunna pick up a bunch of WD Reds, but I'm not entirely sure how to go about bulk transferring from the existing drives (some of which are apparently dying) to the new drives. Does anyone have any recommendations on cloning software?
Since I'm going to have access to a Microcenter while I'm there I'm tempted to just build a new system. Since its mainly used for document storage and video playback (I ripped a bunch of our dvds to it and there are a bunch of family/vacation photos and videos on it) I dont need anything too powerful, but I'm not exactly opposed to being able to do a little bit of gaming on it . If I go through Microcenter I can grab a Pentium G4400 for $50, or an i3 6100 for $109 (with $30/off if I buy a compatible motherboard). Is the 6100 worth the extra $30?
*annoyingly (but I guess understandably) it looks like you only get one of the $30/off when buying a CPU/mobo
Here's what I need help with:
Case: I think I need a traditional mid tower, but if I can get a cheap
GPU: GTX 570 - free; I'm not fundamentally opposed to going with something newer, but I'd like to keep costs low. I'm already higher than I want to be, but thats due to the HDDs which are non-negotiable.
I've basically only looked at Microcenter and Amazon, but its just dawned on me that I can do pick ups at Newegg. Do they do same day pickups or does it take them a couple of days to "package" things. Part of the reason I'm thinking Microcenter/Amazon is because I should be able to order this weekend and have the parts by the time I'm in SoCal.
WD should have a cloning program. Otherwise, I've used Acronis True Image to positive effect. I'm not sure if they have a free version, but you can typically find a license for under $20
Are cloning programs faster or easier than just dragging and dropping? More secure? I'm not actually clear on what makes cloning programs better for programless drives (I assume if theres software installed on the hard drive the cloning program would make it so they're still usable when "moved" to the new drive).
I'm headed to my mom's place next week and I need to replace the hard drives in the computer she/we're using basically as a NAS. I'm gunna pick up a bunch of WD Reds, but I'm not entirely sure how to go about bulk transferring from the existing drives (some of which are apparently dying) to the new drives. Does anyone have any recommendations on cloning software?
Since I'm going to have access to a Microcenter while I'm there I'm tempted to just build a new system. Since its mainly used for document storage and video playback (I ripped a bunch of our dvds to it and there are a bunch of family/vacation photos and videos on it) I dont need anything too powerful, but I'm not exactly opposed to being able to do a little bit of gaming on it . If I go through Microcenter I can grab a Pentium G4400 for $50, or an i3 6100 for $109 (with $30/off if I buy a compatible motherboard). Is the 6100 worth the extra $30?
*annoyingly (but I guess understandably) it looks like you only get one of the $30/off when buying a CPU/mobo
Here's what I need help with:
Case: I think I need a traditional mid tower, but if I can get a cheap
GPU: GTX 570 - free; I'm not fundamentally opposed to going with something newer, but I'd like to keep costs low. I'm already higher than I want to be, but thats due to the HDDs which are non-negotiable.
I've basically only looked at Microcenter and Amazon, but its just dawned on me that I can do pick ups at Newegg. Do they do same day pickups or does it take them a couple of days to "package" things. Part of the reason I'm thinking Microcenter/Amazon is because I should be able to order this weekend and have the parts by the time I'm in SoCal.
WD should have a cloning program. Otherwise, I've used Acronis True Image to positive effect. I'm not sure if they have a free version, but you can typically find a license for under $20
Are cloning programs faster or easier than just dragging and dropping? More secure? I'm not actually clear on what makes cloning programs better for programless drives (I assume if theres software installed on the hard drive the cloning program would make it so they're still usable when "moved" to the new drive).
Well, for your boot drive, a cloning program like AOMEI (or Acronis) will also reproduce your non-visible partitions. Which can be pretty damn important, as I've found recently.
But yeah, for something like a video library drive, there's not a lot of reason aside from convenience/inconvenience. I have a 1.13TB video library on a 4 TB drive--cloning a drive image is faster than using file explorer to copy everything I think.
would G-sync or whatever benefit me at all in a 144Hz monitor?
Marty: The future, it's where you're going? Doc: That's right, twenty five years into the future. I've always dreamed on seeing the future, looking beyond my years, seeing the progress of mankind. I'll also be able to see who wins the next twenty-five world series.
I'd like to know the difference between airflow and static pressure and how to tell, since I have a radiator and only 2 140mm fans.
Static pressure fans are designed to apply more force to the air they push; high airflow fans are designed to move a higher volume of air at a lower pressure.
Generally speaking, you'll want a high static pressure fan pushing air into radiators and heatsinks. With only two fans the typical arrangement would be a high airflow fan pulling filtered air into the case with a static pressure fan pushing air into the radiator, which exhausts outside the case. Having your fan pull air through the radiator is really a negligible loss of efficiency, though.
Going push-pull would add an airflow fan on the exhaust side of the radiator.
Generally speaking you'll want more inflow than exhaust on the case, resulting in any imbalance pushing air out instead of sucking dust in.
I'd like to know the difference between airflow and static pressure and how to tell, since I have a radiator and only 2 140mm fans.
Static pressure fans are designed to apply more force to the air they push; high airflow fans are designed to move a higher volume of air at a lower pressure.
Generally speaking, you'll want a high static pressure fan pushing air into radiators and heatsinks. With only two fans the typical arrangement would be a high airflow fan pulling filtered air into the case with a static pressure fan pushing air into the radiator, which exhausts outside the case. Having your fan pull air through the radiator is really a negligible loss of efficiency, though.
Going push-pull would add an airflow fan on the exhaust side of the radiator.
Generally speaking you'll want more inflow than exhaust on the case, resulting in any imbalance pushing air out instead of sucking dust in.
So to draw air in through the radiator, I'd have case-filter-pressure fan-radiator-airflow fan? OK.
Marty: The future, it's where you're going? Doc: That's right, twenty five years into the future. I've always dreamed on seeing the future, looking beyond my years, seeing the progress of mankind. I'll also be able to see who wins the next twenty-five world series.
If I buy Windows 10 on a disk (its like $10-20 cheaper), can I just download the iso from Microsoft and then use the CD key I get with the disk to activate?
If I buy Windows 10 on a disk (its like $10-20 cheaper), can I just download the iso from Microsoft and then use the CD key I get with the disk to activate?
Yup. OEM discs have a key on 'em. I like to make a bootable USB drive and use that to install.
I'd like to know the difference between airflow and static pressure and how to tell, since I have a radiator and only 2 140mm fans.
Static pressure fans are designed to apply more force to the air they push; high airflow fans are designed to move a higher volume of air at a lower pressure.
Generally speaking, you'll want a high static pressure fan pushing air into radiators and heatsinks. With only two fans the typical arrangement would be a high airflow fan pulling filtered air into the case with a static pressure fan pushing air into the radiator, which exhausts outside the case. Having your fan pull air through the radiator is really a negligible loss of efficiency, though.
Going push-pull would add an airflow fan on the exhaust side of the radiator.
Generally speaking you'll want more inflow than exhaust on the case, resulting in any imbalance pushing air out instead of sucking dust in.
So to draw air in through the radiator, I'd have case-filter-pressure fan-radiator-airflow fan? OK.
This is the way I'd do it:
Filters are optional, but they help keep things clean. There's really not a wrong way to do it though (well, besides having fans on either side of the rad blowing in or out).
doing it that way would be a pain as you would have to find fans that blow away from the motor mount side or use small spacers on each fan so they don't rub on the case.
I read up on this; apparently putting exhaust fans on top (image 2) steals air circulation from the bottom of the case where the graphics card is. What was recommended was to ditch the top fans and just have two intakes in the front and one exhaust in the back.
However, I'm going to try to water cool the GPU with a 120mm radiator.... or a 240mm if I go crazy and lay down another $100. At that point, it would have to go in the top of the case. I dunno.
I went to microcenter and was disappointed by their fan selection. The push intake fans in front of the radiator are weird. They're NZXT FX V2 140mm fans, and they're supposed to be static pressure pwm fans but...
Like, WTF? Doesn't this seem more like an airflow fan than a static pressure fan?
I tried to get a fan at ~same or better max CFM, but even the noctuas only go up to 96. How important is it to match CFM for push pull? And do I even need good case airflow if I'm watercooling my GPU?
The reason I'm interested in push pull is the airflow thing and also to increase positive pressure should I need 3 exhausts and 2 intakes.
Marty: The future, it's where you're going? Doc: That's right, twenty five years into the future. I've always dreamed on seeing the future, looking beyond my years, seeing the progress of mankind. I'll also be able to see who wins the next twenty-five world series.
going crazy trying to optimize case airflow doesn't really gain you much for lowering temps, maybe 1-2C if your going from a decent clean non-cluttered case to perfect optimized.
What temps are you even running now? if things aren't high I wouldn't worry so much about trying to get things perfect.
going crazy trying to optimize case airflow doesn't really gain you much for lowering temps, maybe 1-2C if your going from a decent clean non-cluttered case to perfect optimized.
What temps are you even running now? if things aren't high I wouldn't worry so much about trying to get things perfect.
I haven't load tested the cpu, but it runs at 21 degrees on average and doesn't go up much with regular use. GPU runs about 40 degrees and goes up to 55 with regular furmark
Marty: The future, it's where you're going? Doc: That's right, twenty five years into the future. I've always dreamed on seeing the future, looking beyond my years, seeing the progress of mankind. I'll also be able to see who wins the next twenty-five world series.
going crazy trying to optimize case airflow doesn't really gain you much for lowering temps, maybe 1-2C if your going from a decent clean non-cluttered case to perfect optimized.
What temps are you even running now? if things aren't high I wouldn't worry so much about trying to get things perfect.
I haven't load tested the cpu, but it runs at 21 degrees on average and doesn't go up much with regular use. GPU runs about 40 degrees and goes up to 55 with regular furmark
that is exceptionally cold running, stop worrying about case fans.
Fine, I'll see how it goes and come back to it if something happens
Paladin on
Marty: The future, it's where you're going? Doc: That's right, twenty five years into the future. I've always dreamed on seeing the future, looking beyond my years, seeing the progress of mankind. I'll also be able to see who wins the next twenty-five world series.
And now the Dell S2716DGR (1440p, TN panel, 144Hz, G sync) monitor is on sale on Best Buy for $450. That is super tempting since the TN panel on that one is supposed to be pretty good and I've never had an IPS before and doubt I'd see the difference unless they were right next to each other. I want to hold out for that Predator but no way is it going to ever be that cheap.
Those monitors are really well reviewed. Any particular reason you're holding out for a Predator?
Hey guys, I'm looking at upgrading my current GTX 770 chipset GPU to a 1070... or 1080?
So what's the deal between those two? Like the 1080s have this GDDR5X thingy going on which helps? Idk. This is very confusing. Right now I am eyeing the EVGA and MSI versions of the 1070.
I'm aiming for around $500 or so. Could go higher if it's worth it. This current card has lasted me three years. Hoping to get another 3-4.
The 1080 is around 25% more performance than the 1070 for 50% more money.
That's about the long and short of it.
The multiple versions of the same chipset will be variations on clock speed in the overclock.
Ah, ok thanks. I haven't gotten into overclocking yet, but I'd like to try.
I was able to find MSI GeForce GTX 1070 Gaming X on Jet.com for 420 (I have an offer on my account for $30 off. Is this a good deal? Also, this page says it is GDDR5x, while Amazon and Newegg say it isnt. Is this a big deal?
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Until either inventory builds and/or demand drops, there's no reason to stop charging the "I must own this now" tax on the cards.
A particular company that you like--for example, I'm partial to EVGA because of their build quality and outstanding support in US (in the past they also had lifetime warranties, not so much anymore). Individual companies may also have their own variants with higher base clocks and better coolers (insert your ACX joke here). But if you're brand-agnostic and are fine with the default clockspeeds for a 1060, just fine whoever has the best deal/bundle.
It's tempting me, but I still think I'd rather hold out for the Predator xb271hu, even if I mostly play RPGs and such where the 4k would be more useful than the 144Hz.
That's super nice. It's substantially more than I paid for my Acer S277HK, though from what I've heard the display quality is worse (in the area of colors), but an extra inch larger and G-sync.....if I didn't already have one.
It also sounds like the model Amazon's selling isn't IPS (which isn't uncommon for monitors--you'll frequently run into Amazon selling the version of a Samsung monitor that lacks Freesync on sale, rather than the version that does). That being said, still really tempting.
Doc: That's right, twenty five years into the future. I've always dreamed on seeing the future, looking beyond my years, seeing the progress of mankind. I'll also be able to see who wins the next twenty-five world series.
Thanks for all the help. I'm sure I'll be back when I can't get it working. I'm 0/2 on first try boot ups so far.
I dunno but it's not super complicated. Conventional wisdom is:
- Air should generally move from the front to the back, and from the bottom to the top
- Bigger fans are better (a larger fan can move as much or more air at a lower RPM, meaning better cooling with less noise)
- Positive air pressure inside of a case (having more airflow coming in than coming out) means you'll have less dust in out of the way spots because it won't get sucked in through gaps in your case
- Cable management can help with airflow, so don't have a spaghetti case
- Clean your filters and heatsinks every once in a while, dust impedes cooling ability and looks grooooossssssss
and lastly
- Fans with LEDs are cooler, baby
There's other stuff (like the difference between airflow fans and static pressure fans) and push, pull, and push/pull configurations for radiators and whatnot, but for the most part it's fairly straightforward.
Do you have specific questions for a build, or are you just looking for info for the heck of it?
Since I'm going to have access to a Microcenter while I'm there I'm tempted to just build a new system. Since its mainly used for document storage and video playback (I ripped a bunch of our dvds to it and there are a bunch of family/vacation photos and videos on it) I dont need anything too powerful, but I'm not exactly opposed to being able to do a little bit of gaming on it . If I go through Microcenter I can grab a Pentium G4400 for $50, or an i3 6100 for $109 (with $30/off if I buy a compatible motherboard). Is the 6100 worth the extra $30?
Here's what I've basically picked out:
CPU: i3 6100 ($80.00)*
Mobo: Gigabyte GA-H170-Gaming 3 ($79.00)*
RAM: 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR4 PC2133 ($40.00)
HDD: 3x 3TB Western Digital Reds ($327.00)
SSD: 250GB Samsung Evo 850 ($89.00)
PSU: Seasonic G550 ($80)
Subtotal: $729.84
*annoyingly (but I guess understandably) it looks like you only get one of the $30/off when buying a CPU/mobo
Here's what I need help with:
Case: I think I need a traditional mid tower, but if I can get a cheap
GPU: GTX 570 - free; I'm not fundamentally opposed to going with something newer, but I'd like to keep costs low. I'm already higher than I want to be, but thats due to the HDDs which are non-negotiable.
I've basically only looked at Microcenter and Amazon, but its just dawned on me that I can do pick ups at Newegg. Do they do same day pickups or does it take them a couple of days to "package" things. Part of the reason I'm thinking Microcenter/Amazon is because I should be able to order this weekend and have the parts by the time I'm in SoCal.
I'd like to know the difference between airflow and static pressure and how to tell, since I have a radiator and only 2 140mm fans. I set em up for push.
by the way, I built the computer. Ran on 2nd power button press because the power supply connector wasn't fully pushed in.
I really need to do something about those cables but I'm lazy
Doc: That's right, twenty five years into the future. I've always dreamed on seeing the future, looking beyond my years, seeing the progress of mankind. I'll also be able to see who wins the next twenty-five world series.
Doc: That's right, twenty five years into the future. I've always dreamed on seeing the future, looking beyond my years, seeing the progress of mankind. I'll also be able to see who wins the next twenty-five world series.
WD should have a cloning program. Otherwise, I've used Acronis True Image to positive effect. I'm not sure if they have a free version, but you can typically find a license for under $20
Are cloning programs faster or easier than just dragging and dropping? More secure? I'm not actually clear on what makes cloning programs better for programless drives (I assume if theres software installed on the hard drive the cloning program would make it so they're still usable when "moved" to the new drive).
Well, for your boot drive, a cloning program like AOMEI (or Acronis) will also reproduce your non-visible partitions. Which can be pretty damn important, as I've found recently.
But yeah, for something like a video library drive, there's not a lot of reason aside from convenience/inconvenience. I have a 1.13TB video library on a 4 TB drive--cloning a drive image is faster than using file explorer to copy everything I think.
Doc: That's right, twenty five years into the future. I've always dreamed on seeing the future, looking beyond my years, seeing the progress of mankind. I'll also be able to see who wins the next twenty-five world series.
Yes. When your frame rate drops it will keep your picture smooth.
Yes. Buying a high refresh monitor without Gsync or Freesync would be an exceptionally bad idea.
Static pressure fans are designed to apply more force to the air they push; high airflow fans are designed to move a higher volume of air at a lower pressure.
Generally speaking, you'll want a high static pressure fan pushing air into radiators and heatsinks. With only two fans the typical arrangement would be a high airflow fan pulling filtered air into the case with a static pressure fan pushing air into the radiator, which exhausts outside the case. Having your fan pull air through the radiator is really a negligible loss of efficiency, though.
Going push-pull would add an airflow fan on the exhaust side of the radiator.
Generally speaking you'll want more inflow than exhaust on the case, resulting in any imbalance pushing air out instead of sucking dust in.
So to draw air in through the radiator, I'd have case-filter-pressure fan-radiator-airflow fan? OK.
Doc: That's right, twenty five years into the future. I've always dreamed on seeing the future, looking beyond my years, seeing the progress of mankind. I'll also be able to see who wins the next twenty-five world series.
Penny Arcade Rockstar Social Club / This is why I despise cyclists
This is the way I'd do it:
Filters are optional, but they help keep things clean. There's really not a wrong way to do it though (well, besides having fans on either side of the rad blowing in or out).
e: I'm assuming that's a spot for fans in the top
e2: Another way to do it:
just use that rear mount as an exhaust.
However, I'm going to try to water cool the GPU with a 120mm radiator.... or a 240mm if I go crazy and lay down another $100. At that point, it would have to go in the top of the case. I dunno.
I went to microcenter and was disappointed by their fan selection. The push intake fans in front of the radiator are weird. They're NZXT FX V2 140mm fans, and they're supposed to be static pressure pwm fans but...
Lower limit: 800rpm, 0.36mmH2O, 42.4CFM
Higher limit: 2000rpm, 1.97mmH2O, 106.1CFM
Like, WTF? Doesn't this seem more like an airflow fan than a static pressure fan?
I tried to get a fan at ~same or better max CFM, but even the noctuas only go up to 96. How important is it to match CFM for push pull? And do I even need good case airflow if I'm watercooling my GPU?
The reason I'm interested in push pull is the airflow thing and also to increase positive pressure should I need 3 exhausts and 2 intakes.
Doc: That's right, twenty five years into the future. I've always dreamed on seeing the future, looking beyond my years, seeing the progress of mankind. I'll also be able to see who wins the next twenty-five world series.
What temps are you even running now? if things aren't high I wouldn't worry so much about trying to get things perfect.
I haven't load tested the cpu, but it runs at 21 degrees on average and doesn't go up much with regular use. GPU runs about 40 degrees and goes up to 55 with regular furmark
Doc: That's right, twenty five years into the future. I've always dreamed on seeing the future, looking beyond my years, seeing the progress of mankind. I'll also be able to see who wins the next twenty-five world series.
that is exceptionally cold running, stop worrying about case fans.
Fine, I'll see how it goes and come back to it if something happens
Doc: That's right, twenty five years into the future. I've always dreamed on seeing the future, looking beyond my years, seeing the progress of mankind. I'll also be able to see who wins the next twenty-five world series.
Those monitors are really well reviewed. Any particular reason you're holding out for a Predator?
edit: format
Bnet tag: Nermals#11601
That's still really cool. And like has been said, optimizing much more than that will net you maybe 2C. Won't make a material difference.
So what's the deal between those two? Like the 1080s have this GDDR5X thingy going on which helps? Idk. This is very confusing. Right now I am eyeing the EVGA and MSI versions of the 1070.
I'm aiming for around $500 or so. Could go higher if it's worth it. This current card has lasted me three years. Hoping to get another 3-4.
Why do these companies have five versions of the same card? Ex: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I60OGUK/ref=psdc_284822_t1_B01GXOX3SW
Like what is the difference among all these EVGA 1070 cards?
Edit: Or should I get the 1080?
That's about the long and short of it.
The multiple versions of the same chipset will be variations on clock speed in the overclock.
Ah, ok thanks. I haven't gotten into overclocking yet, but I'd like to try.
I was able to find MSI GeForce GTX 1070 Gaming X on Jet.com for 420 (I have an offer on my account for $30 off. Is this a good deal? Also, this page says it is GDDR5x, while Amazon and Newegg say it isnt. Is this a big deal?