SSD's were/are the single biggest upgrade one can make to a computer. at my work we have a bunch of 4 year old dell laptops, and every time a user starts to complain about them being slow we just toss a 120GB 850 evo in and it's like a new computer to them.
for general use CPU, and generally even ram is not the bottleneck anymore, hasn't been for a long time. it's disk and I/O.
Just remember, SSDs only work on stuff you install them on. Otherwise they don't do squat--so make sure you put your OS, etc. on them. That's why I have two SSDs.
I don't think I ever made one explicitly, but my hotmail account that I've had for ages got converted to a microsoft account automatically some time in the past.
Yeah, Microsoft accounts can use Hotmail addresses, live addresses (the new MS mail domain) and a few others.
SSD's were/are the single biggest upgrade one can make to a computer. at my work we have a bunch of 4 year old dell laptops, and every time a user starts to complain about them being slow we just toss a 120GB 850 evo in and it's like a new computer to them.
for general use CPU, and generally even ram is not the bottleneck anymore, hasn't been for a long time. it's disk and I/O.
Oh I knew all of that - I just never got around to getting one on any of my old computers Wife's new laptop (email/web stuff) has a small SSD and that really put a fire under me. Used some migration software and took a couple of hours.
As part of my desktop build, I pulled the trigger on a SSD for my laptop. I've never had one on a non-work computer. Just wow.
There's a reason I went 100% SSD relatively early in their development; and it's been gravy ever since.
oh gof I remember those first few awful, awful years of SSDs.
Trying to get Win7 beta + my full WotLK install to fit on a single 32GB SSD... only to then lose my entire OS install to fucking SSD BSODs and have to do a fresh install.
gof bless you early-adopter era of SSDs.
Hamurabi on
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That_GuyI don't wanna be that guyRegistered Userregular
I've started getting my parts now and will build my new pc together this weekend. I'm curious about one thing though that I didn't consider in advance.
I bought a regular 1070 and separately a water cooling block for it. I want to just put everything together and start it up, to make sure it runs, before I break warranty and mount the cooling block on the card.
From what I understand Windows 10 registers to your hardware? Would it at all be a problem to install windows, try some stuff out and get some temps, before removing the stock air cooler on the video card?
I think it only registers your mobo. Maybe the mobo/cpu combo, but probably just the mobo.
You shouldn't have a problem installing Windows 10 and then swapping out coolers regardless.
You really only need to reactiavate Windows if you swap your motherboard. You could swap out any other hardware without needing ti.
If you are running Windows 10 and tied your product key to your MS account, you are presented with a list of PCs your CAL is being used on, with the opportunity to deactivate the old machine.
This MS account... Does that refer to their .net login thing or is it a specific kind of account?
When you install Windows 10 it gives you the option of logging into your microsoft account. This turns your physical license into a digital license. This entitles you to a copy of Windows installed on any single device (or motherboard). Should you your old device (or motherboard) break and you need to replace it, you can activate your digital license on a new device (or motherboard) if you deactivate your old one. The only caveat is that is has to be the same sort of device. I've not tested if laptops and desktop count as the same device but desktop to desktop should be fine.
As part of my desktop build, I pulled the trigger on a SSD for my laptop. I've never had one on a non-work computer. Just wow.
There's a reason I went 100% SSD relatively early in their development; and it's been gravy ever since.
oh gof I remember those first few awful, awful years of SSDs.
Trying to get Win7 beta + my full WotLK install to fit on a single 32GB SSD... only to then lose my entire OS install to fucking SSD BSODs and have to do a fresh install.
gof bless you early-adopter era of SSDs.
It was a fun time.
"So, what can I get on a 64 GB drive? No console ports, I'm guessing"
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SteevLWhat can I do for you?Registered Userregular
It appears I will be reaching my goal of saving up for a new PC within the next few weeks. I'm planning on replacing just about everything except the speaker system (although it is getting a little flaky) and the monitor.
Here are my current specs:
CPU: i5-750
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-P55M-UD2
RAM: 4 GB
GPU: Radeon HD 5850
Case: This Antec thing right here. I was surprised to see that Newegg is still selling it, mainly because I bought it from them in October of 2009.
I also have a pretty new SSD and two 2 TB hard drives in there.
This thing has mostly done me well, but this also meant getting used to playing certain games at sub-optimal FPS in the last 2-3 years...or not at all.
The amount I'm planning on spending ranges from $1000-1200, although obviously I'd prefer the amount to be closer to the low end there. My monitor's max resolution is 1920x1080, so I'm not interested in needing something that'll do better than that just yet. And I have no interest in VR.
Diving into picking new PC parts is always a bit of a dizzying experience, but the last time I did it I don't think that PC Part Picker website was around. That should make things a little easier.
Before I really dive into picking out parts, though, does anyone have any suggestions for a new case? I still want to stick with a mid tower, and I do still use an optical drive (mainly because I still buy music CDs and rip them into my collection).
Do you have a problem with your current case? I'd reuse it. Unless you're keeping your old system intact.
Otherwise, it's kind of hard to go wrong as long as it has the ports you need. Define series is popular around here, I believe.
I'm definitely keeping the old system. Might connect it to the TV. Seems like it would still work great for indie multiplayer games and stuff like that.
Right after I made my previous post, I came across the Antec 300 which seems like it would work for me, but I'll definitely take a look at the Define series you mentioned.
BouwsTWanna come to a super soft birthday party?Registered Userregular
This is what I whipped up. Assuming you can re-use your storage, operating system, and optical drive this should get you in fine shape to DESTROY 1080p.
I would agree to at least look at the define cases. They're popular here for a reason. Clean look, easy to work in, pretty quiet cases, etc. That isn't to say that there aren't other great cases and the case is probably the most personal choice in a PC build since it's literally the thing you see all the time. But if are going for a simple look, the define cases are pretty good.
This is what I whipped up. Assuming you can re-use your storage, operating system, and optical drive this should get you in fine shape to DESTROY 1080p.
Black with yellow/gold accents, minimal RGB, and some money left over if you want to add some custom colored fans or something garish like that.
Thanks! Unfortunately, I am replacing my storage, optical drive, and OS as well. Still running Windows 7 on this machine, so I'll be purchasing Windows 10. I do appreciate the parts you picked out, though; I'll definitely keep them in mind.
I would agree to at least look at the define cases. They're popular here for a reason. Clean look, easy to work in, pretty quiet cases, etc. That isn't to say that there aren't other great cases and the case is probably the most personal choice in a PC build since it's literally the thing you see all the time. But if are going for a simple look, the define cases are pretty good.
Yeah, I had a quick look at one of them and I could see myself buying one.
This is what I whipped up. Assuming you can re-use your storage, operating system, and optical drive this should get you in fine shape to DESTROY 1080p.
Black with yellow/gold accents, minimal RGB, and some money left over if you want to add some custom colored fans or something garish like that.
Thanks! Unfortunately, I am replacing my storage, optical drive, and OS as well. Still running Windows 7 on this machine, so I'll be purchasing Windows 10. I do appreciate the parts you picked out, though; I'll definitely keep them in mind.
Alright... I can still make this work. I KNOW I can... A few questions:
How important do you consider overclocking of the CPU?
If I remove a window on the case, would you care about a color scheme (ie. is this PC going to be a centerpiece, or a gaming appliance)?
How much storage do you need as a minimum, assuming you can throw in more drives down the road?
Between you and me, Peggy, I smoked this Juul and it did UNTHINKABLE things to my mind and body...
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SteevLWhat can I do for you?Registered Userregular
This is what I whipped up. Assuming you can re-use your storage, operating system, and optical drive this should get you in fine shape to DESTROY 1080p.
Black with yellow/gold accents, minimal RGB, and some money left over if you want to add some custom colored fans or something garish like that.
Thanks! Unfortunately, I am replacing my storage, optical drive, and OS as well. Still running Windows 7 on this machine, so I'll be purchasing Windows 10. I do appreciate the parts you picked out, though; I'll definitely keep them in mind.
Alright... I can still make this work. I KNOW I can... A few questions:
How important do you consider overclocking of the CPU?
If I remove a window on the case, would you care about a color scheme (ie. is this PC going to be a centerpiece, or a gaming appliance)?
How much storage do you need as a minimum, assuming you can throw in more drives down the road?
I've never overclocked a CPU in my life, so it's not very important to me.
I don't care too much about presentation. A window is nice, but probably not necessary especially since I always do a shit job with cable management. I generally prefer a black case. Flashy LEDs can be fun, but again, not really a necessary thing for me.
I believe my current SSD is an Intel 480 GB. I don't remember the specifics; my father-in-law gave it to me as a Christmas gift. You know, it might be feasible for me to just swap that one into the new PC. I still have the old SSD in that machine and could use that as the old machine's boot drive.
I think at this point I'd need at least one 2TB hard drive to keep my games and music on, with the preferred goal of having 4 GB of storage.
This is what I whipped up. Assuming you can re-use your storage, operating system, and optical drive this should get you in fine shape to DESTROY 1080p.
Black with yellow/gold accents, minimal RGB, and some money left over if you want to add some custom colored fans or something garish like that.
Thanks! Unfortunately, I am replacing my storage, optical drive, and OS as well. Still running Windows 7 on this machine, so I'll be purchasing Windows 10. I do appreciate the parts you picked out, though; I'll definitely keep them in mind.
Alright... I can still make this work. I KNOW I can... A few questions:
How important do you consider overclocking of the CPU?
If I remove a window on the case, would you care about a color scheme (ie. is this PC going to be a centerpiece, or a gaming appliance)?
How much storage do you need as a minimum, assuming you can throw in more drives down the road?
I've never overclocked a CPU in my life, so it's not very important to me.
I don't care too much about presentation. A window is nice, but probably not necessary especially since I always do a shit job with cable management. I generally prefer a black case. Flashy LEDs can be fun, but again, not really a necessary thing for me.
I believe my current SSD is an Intel 480 GB. I don't remember the specifics; my father-in-law gave it to me as a Christmas gift. You know, it might be feasible for me to just swap that one into the new PC. I still have the old SSD in that machine and could use that as the old machine's boot drive.
I think at this point I'd need at least one 2TB hard drive to keep my games and music on, with the preferred goal of having 4 GB of storage.
If you can re-use that SSD, I can get you 4TB in the system. It will have to be a non-k (not overclockable) CPU, but that comes with a stock cooler (the K models do not). Also, switched to a ZOTAC GPU, and a slightly lower efficiency (but still fully modular) SeaSonic power supply. Slightly under $1200 with OS, storage, and an optical drive.
Has anyone used sites like Ebates or BeFrugal before? It looks like Dell has the S2716DG (that everyone has been saying is a great 27" g sync 1440p value) for $475. Slickdeals is also telling me that those sites currently have 12% cash back when using their affiliate portal for Dell.com. I'm strongly tempted to buy the monitor right now, especially since I just picked up a GTX1070. Someone convince me to pull the trigger!
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SteevLWhat can I do for you?Registered Userregular
This is what I whipped up. Assuming you can re-use your storage, operating system, and optical drive this should get you in fine shape to DESTROY 1080p.
Black with yellow/gold accents, minimal RGB, and some money left over if you want to add some custom colored fans or something garish like that.
Thanks! Unfortunately, I am replacing my storage, optical drive, and OS as well. Still running Windows 7 on this machine, so I'll be purchasing Windows 10. I do appreciate the parts you picked out, though; I'll definitely keep them in mind.
Alright... I can still make this work. I KNOW I can... A few questions:
How important do you consider overclocking of the CPU?
If I remove a window on the case, would you care about a color scheme (ie. is this PC going to be a centerpiece, or a gaming appliance)?
How much storage do you need as a minimum, assuming you can throw in more drives down the road?
I've never overclocked a CPU in my life, so it's not very important to me.
I don't care too much about presentation. A window is nice, but probably not necessary especially since I always do a shit job with cable management. I generally prefer a black case. Flashy LEDs can be fun, but again, not really a necessary thing for me.
I believe my current SSD is an Intel 480 GB. I don't remember the specifics; my father-in-law gave it to me as a Christmas gift. You know, it might be feasible for me to just swap that one into the new PC. I still have the old SSD in that machine and could use that as the old machine's boot drive.
I think at this point I'd need at least one 2TB hard drive to keep my games and music on, with the preferred goal of having 4 GB of storage.
If you can re-use that SSD, I can get you 4TB in the system. It will have to be a non-k (not overclockable) CPU, but that comes with a stock cooler (the K models do not). Also, switched to a ZOTAC GPU, and a slightly lower efficiency (but still fully modular) SeaSonic power supply. Slightly under $1200 with OS, storage, and an optical drive.
Has anyone used sites like Ebates or BeFrugal before? It looks like Dell has the S2716DG (that everyone has been saying is a great 27" g sync 1440p value) for $475. Slickdeals is also telling me that those sites currently have 12% cash back when using their affiliate portal for Dell.com. I'm strongly tempted to buy the monitor right now, especially since I just picked up a GTX1070. Someone convince me to pull the trigger!
Pull the trigger. I paid $580 for mine and am very satisfied.
This is what I whipped up. Assuming you can re-use your storage, operating system, and optical drive this should get you in fine shape to DESTROY 1080p.
Black with yellow/gold accents, minimal RGB, and some money left over if you want to add some custom colored fans or something garish like that.
Thanks! Unfortunately, I am replacing my storage, optical drive, and OS as well. Still running Windows 7 on this machine, so I'll be purchasing Windows 10. I do appreciate the parts you picked out, though; I'll definitely keep them in mind.
Alright... I can still make this work. I KNOW I can... A few questions:
How important do you consider overclocking of the CPU?
If I remove a window on the case, would you care about a color scheme (ie. is this PC going to be a centerpiece, or a gaming appliance)?
How much storage do you need as a minimum, assuming you can throw in more drives down the road?
I've never overclocked a CPU in my life, so it's not very important to me.
I don't care too much about presentation. A window is nice, but probably not necessary especially since I always do a shit job with cable management. I generally prefer a black case. Flashy LEDs can be fun, but again, not really a necessary thing for me.
I believe my current SSD is an Intel 480 GB. I don't remember the specifics; my father-in-law gave it to me as a Christmas gift. You know, it might be feasible for me to just swap that one into the new PC. I still have the old SSD in that machine and could use that as the old machine's boot drive.
I think at this point I'd need at least one 2TB hard drive to keep my games and music on, with the preferred goal of having 4 GB of storage.
If you can re-use that SSD, I can get you 4TB in the system. It will have to be a non-k (not overclockable) CPU, but that comes with a stock cooler (the K models do not). Also, switched to a ZOTAC GPU, and a slightly lower efficiency (but still fully modular) SeaSonic power supply. Slightly under $1200 with OS, storage, and an optical drive.
Thanks! I'll definitely take this build into consideration.
I'm using a previous-gen version of the Antec 300 and I truly love it as my case. The only thing I'd change is that the fan I have installed in the top is a bright blue LED fan, and I'd prefer one that doesn't have lights. I don't remember if that is one of the fans that came with the case, or one I added from a previous case.
I wish there was a way I could rip out the USB 3 header from that case and transplant it in mine. Doing some casual research earlier in the year, Antec doesn't seem to offer any sort of upgrade kit.
Do you have a problem with your current case? I'd reuse it. Unless you're keeping your old system intact.
Otherwise, it's kind of hard to go wrong as long as it has the ports you need. Define series is popular around here, I believe.
I'm definitely keeping the old system. Might connect it to the TV. Seems like it would still work great for indie multiplayer games and stuff like that.
Right after I made my previous post, I came across the Antec 300 which seems like it would work for me, but I'll definitely take a look at the Define series you mentioned.
Antec used to be the go-to but they have generally failed to update their cases with new features that others now have.
Has anyone used sites like Ebates or BeFrugal before? It looks like Dell has the S2716DG (that everyone has been saying is a great 27" g sync 1440p value) for $475. Slickdeals is also telling me that those sites currently have 12% cash back when using their affiliate portal for Dell.com. I'm strongly tempted to buy the monitor right now, especially since I just picked up a GTX1070. Someone convince me to pull the trigger!
Pull the trigger. I paid $580 for mine and am very satisfied.
Thanks, that's the push I needed. Monitor upgrade get! Now I just have to figure out what to do with the $24 credit I got at Dell that expires in 90 days.
Has anyone used sites like Ebates or BeFrugal before? It looks like Dell has the S2716DG (that everyone has been saying is a great 27" g sync 1440p value) for $475. Slickdeals is also telling me that those sites currently have 12% cash back when using their affiliate portal for Dell.com. I'm strongly tempted to buy the monitor right now, especially since I just picked up a GTX1070. Someone convince me to pull the trigger!
Pull the trigger. I paid $580 for mine and am very satisfied.
Thanks, that's the push I needed. Monitor upgrade get! Now I just have to figure out what to do with the $24 credit I got at Dell that expires in 90 days.
I've got the S2716DG and it is pretty sweet. I think you'll be happy. Be sure to check out this ICC profile for color calibration.
This is what I whipped up. Assuming you can re-use your storage, operating system, and optical drive this should get you in fine shape to DESTROY 1080p.
Black with yellow/gold accents, minimal RGB, and some money left over if you want to add some custom colored fans or something garish like that.
Thanks! Unfortunately, I am replacing my storage, optical drive, and OS as well. Still running Windows 7 on this machine, so I'll be purchasing Windows 10. I do appreciate the parts you picked out, though; I'll definitely keep them in mind.
Alright... I can still make this work. I KNOW I can... A few questions:
How important do you consider overclocking of the CPU?
If I remove a window on the case, would you care about a color scheme (ie. is this PC going to be a centerpiece, or a gaming appliance)?
How much storage do you need as a minimum, assuming you can throw in more drives down the road?
I've never overclocked a CPU in my life, so it's not very important to me.
I don't care too much about presentation. A window is nice, but probably not necessary especially since I always do a shit job with cable management. I generally prefer a black case. Flashy LEDs can be fun, but again, not really a necessary thing for me.
I believe my current SSD is an Intel 480 GB. I don't remember the specifics; my father-in-law gave it to me as a Christmas gift. You know, it might be feasible for me to just swap that one into the new PC. I still have the old SSD in that machine and could use that as the old machine's boot drive.
I think at this point I'd need at least one 2TB hard drive to keep my games and music on, with the preferred goal of having 4 GB of storage.
If you can re-use that SSD, I can get you 4TB in the system. It will have to be a non-k (not overclockable) CPU, but that comes with a stock cooler (the K models do not). Also, switched to a ZOTAC GPU, and a slightly lower efficiency (but still fully modular) SeaSonic power supply. Slightly under $1200 with OS, storage, and an optical drive.
Thanks! I'll definitely take this build into consideration.
No problem! For arguments sake, we could also drop down to a GTX1060 if you weren't needing to DESTROY current specs, which could drop you down to the lower end of your hardware budget, OR would free up enough budget to add an SSD to the current build. Sky is the limit!
Between you and me, Peggy, I smoked this Juul and it did UNTHINKABLE things to my mind and body...
Trying to max out my OC and living in Denver is really screwing me over, relying on air cooling and all.
I'm starting to consider Water Cooling, but is it really worth it? I don't want to deal with leaks and it would fucking kill me if I fry my rig due to a drop of moisture...
You could get one of these and one of their 240 Predators. It's going to be significantly more expensive then getting a different AIO then a 50-80$ hack job water block.
I run my kingpin 980ti's of their waterblock and have them attached to their 360mm AIO Predator and they stay very cool even overclocked. You can even pay them like 20 bucks and they will prefill the gpu waterblock so you don't have to add additional fluid to the reservoir after you hook them together.
" I am a warrior, so that my son may be a merchant, so that his son may be a poet.”
― John Quincy Adams
since I always do a shit job with cable management
Cable management isn't hard as long as you have a case that supports it. If you're not going to have a window and aren't too concerned about maximizing cooling (and you make sure none of your lines is going to contact a fan) than spaghetti isn't a big deal I guess, but if you want to show off a little it's worth it to make sure and get a case that will facilitate that.
A lot of budget cases will just have some holes cut out without even adding grommets or anything, which sucks. I've also noticed that even the largest cases don't really give you a ton of space behind the tray. Ideally they would give a lot more clearance, especially on larger mid tower and full tower cases.
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BouwsTWanna come to a super soft birthday party?Registered Userregular
A lot of budget cases will just have some holes cut out without even adding grommets or anything, which sucks. I've also noticed that even the largest cases don't really give you a ton of space behind the tray. Ideally they would give a lot more clearance, especially on larger mid tower and full tower cases.
I don't get this either. What's an extra 1/4" or 1/2"? It would make a WORLD of difference to the consumer.
Between you and me, Peggy, I smoked this Juul and it did UNTHINKABLE things to my mind and body...
A lot of budget cases will just have some holes cut out without even adding grommets or anything, which sucks. I've also noticed that even the largest cases don't really give you a ton of space behind the tray. Ideally they would give a lot more clearance, especially on larger mid tower and full tower cases.
I don't get this either. What's an extra 1/4" or 1/2"? It would make a WORLD of difference to the consumer.
Obviously you've not looked in the NZXT Manta. The curved side means it's got more space than most ATX cases behind the ITX board. Seriously, I didn't even bother to do any backside cable management in mine. And I've got this thing jammed full of crazy crap.
Got my GTX 1050 Ti today - fit into Optiplex 7010 case like a champ, and so far so good - was hoping the power was ok. Course, I haven't installed drivers yet nor done anything stressing on the card, still downloading updates/installing Steam, games, etc etc.
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NEO|PhyteThey follow the stars, bound together.Strands in a braid till the end.Registered Userregular
Ok, finally starting to get around to actually picking things out for a computerbox, PCpartpicker is both an amazing site and a horrible source of choice paralysis. So many options for things like ram or motherboard or graphics card.
Locked CPUs still come with a stock fan, right? I do recall that unlocked ones don't, not that I'm interested in playing the overclock game.
Don't really know who is considered a good name for what components, so I sorta played it by ear. Still need to look at cases and figure out if there's any that tickle my fancy, and possibly see if there's any brick and mortars around that would have mechanical keyboards so I can feel what they're like (Des Moines area if anyone would know offhand).
It was that somehow, from within the derelict-horror, they had learned a way to see inside an ugly, broken thing... And take away its pain.
Warframe/Steam: NFyt
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
Rumors are getting stronger and stronger that the 1080 Ti will drop in January, likely announced at CES 2017. If, like me, that's you're next upgrade path, start pinchin' them pennies. Probably looking at 700 USD at launch, if I had to guess. Probably closer to 800 if you get suckered in to that Founder's Edition stuff (don't do this).
Rumors are getting stronger and stronger that the 1080 Ti will drop in January, likely announced at CES 2017. If, like me, that's you're next upgrade path, start pinchin' them pennies. Probably looking at 700 USD at launch, if I had to guess. Probably closer to 800 if you get suckered in to that Founder's Edition stuff (don't do this).
Since Cannonlake looks to not be the processor launch I was expecting and I'm not in the mood to wait until Coffee Lake launches (assuming 2018 is accurate) I'm probably going to grab a 7700k and a 1080ti because fuck it it's been a while since I've built a gaming system for myself and I've been working a lot...
I'm sure I'll temper my desires once I price this stuff out though. $7-800 is a crap load for a single part.
I've started getting my parts now and will build my new pc together this weekend. I'm curious about one thing though that I didn't consider in advance.
I bought a regular 1070 and separately a water cooling block for it. I want to just put everything together and start it up, to make sure it runs, before I break warranty and mount the cooling block on the card.
From what I understand Windows 10 registers to your hardware? Would it at all be a problem to install windows, try some stuff out and get some temps, before removing the stock air cooler on the video card?
I think it only registers your mobo. Maybe the mobo/cpu combo, but probably just the mobo.
You shouldn't have a problem installing Windows 10 and then swapping out coolers regardless.
You really only need to reactiavate Windows if you swap your motherboard. You could swap out any other hardware without needing ti.
If you are running Windows 10 and tied your product key to your MS account, you are presented with a list of PCs your CAL is being used on, with the opportunity to deactivate the old machine.
This MS account... Does that refer to their .net login thing or is it a specific kind of account?
When you install Windows 10 it gives you the option of logging into your microsoft account. This turns your physical license into a digital license. This entitles you to a copy of Windows installed on any single device (or motherboard). Should you your old device (or motherboard) break and you need to replace it, you can activate your digital license on a new device (or motherboard) if you deactivate your old one. The only caveat is that is has to be the same sort of device. I've not tested if laptops and desktop count as the same device but desktop to desktop should be fine.
I would not recommend this route. If you have a retail key and used the "free" Windows upgrade for Windows 7, Windows 8 (upgrade license or full release doesn't matter) you only need to punch in your original Win7/8 Key again after installing it on a new machine and reactivate Windows. The activation server remember that your license is eligible for Win 10.
This way you are still able to sell your Windows license if you so desire, you don't have to deactivate older installs and you still have access to your Windows license if your MS account should get hijacked.
I tried it myself (I swapped PCs and reinstalled Windows 10). My friend did something similar - swapping HDs with Windows 10 installs (pro and home) between two different PCs because he needed some of the pro features on the other machine.
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Dhalphirdon't you open that trapdooryou're a fool if you dareRegistered Userregular
Rumors are getting stronger and stronger that the 1080 Ti will drop in January, likely announced at CES 2017. If, like me, that's you're next upgrade path, start pinchin' them pennies. Probably looking at 700 USD at launch, if I had to guess. Probably closer to 800 if you get suckered in to that Founder's Edition stuff (don't do this).
I'm not sure I can justify a 1080Ti to the missus literally one year to the day after buying the 980Ti.
Posts
There's a reason I went 100% SSD relatively early in their development; and it's been gravy ever since.
for general use CPU, and generally even ram is not the bottleneck anymore, hasn't been for a long time. it's disk and I/O.
Yeah, Microsoft accounts can use Hotmail addresses, live addresses (the new MS mail domain) and a few others.
Ayup.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Oh I knew all of that - I just never got around to getting one on any of my old computers
oh gof I remember those first few awful, awful years of SSDs.
Trying to get Win7 beta + my full WotLK install to fit on a single 32GB SSD... only to then lose my entire OS install to fucking SSD BSODs and have to do a fresh install.
gof bless you early-adopter era of SSDs.
When you install Windows 10 it gives you the option of logging into your microsoft account. This turns your physical license into a digital license. This entitles you to a copy of Windows installed on any single device (or motherboard). Should you your old device (or motherboard) break and you need to replace it, you can activate your digital license on a new device (or motherboard) if you deactivate your old one. The only caveat is that is has to be the same sort of device. I've not tested if laptops and desktop count as the same device but desktop to desktop should be fine.
It was a fun time.
"So, what can I get on a 64 GB drive? No console ports, I'm guessing"
Here are my current specs:
CPU: i5-750
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-P55M-UD2
RAM: 4 GB
GPU: Radeon HD 5850
Case: This Antec thing right here. I was surprised to see that Newegg is still selling it, mainly because I bought it from them in October of 2009.
I also have a pretty new SSD and two 2 TB hard drives in there.
This thing has mostly done me well, but this also meant getting used to playing certain games at sub-optimal FPS in the last 2-3 years...or not at all.
The amount I'm planning on spending ranges from $1000-1200, although obviously I'd prefer the amount to be closer to the low end there. My monitor's max resolution is 1920x1080, so I'm not interested in needing something that'll do better than that just yet. And I have no interest in VR.
Diving into picking new PC parts is always a bit of a dizzying experience, but the last time I did it I don't think that PC Part Picker website was around. That should make things a little easier.
Before I really dive into picking out parts, though, does anyone have any suggestions for a new case? I still want to stick with a mid tower, and I do still use an optical drive (mainly because I still buy music CDs and rip them into my collection).
My Backloggery
Otherwise, it's kind of hard to go wrong as long as it has the ports you need. Define series is popular around here, I believe.
I'm definitely keeping the old system. Might connect it to the TV. Seems like it would still work great for indie multiplayer games and stuff like that.
Right after I made my previous post, I came across the Antec 300 which seems like it would work for me, but I'll definitely take a look at the Define series you mentioned.
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http://pcpartpicker.com/list/LMd44C
Black with yellow/gold accents, minimal RGB, and some money left over if you want to add some custom colored fans or something garish like that.
Thanks! Unfortunately, I am replacing my storage, optical drive, and OS as well. Still running Windows 7 on this machine, so I'll be purchasing Windows 10. I do appreciate the parts you picked out, though; I'll definitely keep them in mind.
Yeah, I had a quick look at one of them and I could see myself buying one.
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Alright... I can still make this work. I KNOW I can... A few questions:
How important do you consider overclocking of the CPU?
If I remove a window on the case, would you care about a color scheme (ie. is this PC going to be a centerpiece, or a gaming appliance)?
How much storage do you need as a minimum, assuming you can throw in more drives down the road?
I've never overclocked a CPU in my life, so it's not very important to me.
I don't care too much about presentation. A window is nice, but probably not necessary especially since I always do a shit job with cable management. I generally prefer a black case. Flashy LEDs can be fun, but again, not really a necessary thing for me.
I believe my current SSD is an Intel 480 GB. I don't remember the specifics; my father-in-law gave it to me as a Christmas gift. You know, it might be feasible for me to just swap that one into the new PC. I still have the old SSD in that machine and could use that as the old machine's boot drive.
I think at this point I'd need at least one 2TB hard drive to keep my games and music on, with the preferred goal of having 4 GB of storage.
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If you can re-use that SSD, I can get you 4TB in the system. It will have to be a non-k (not overclockable) CPU, but that comes with a stock cooler (the K models do not). Also, switched to a ZOTAC GPU, and a slightly lower efficiency (but still fully modular) SeaSonic power supply. Slightly under $1200 with OS, storage, and an optical drive.
http://pcpartpicker.com/list/7c9hKZ
Thanks! I'll definitely take this build into consideration.
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Pull the trigger. I paid $580 for mine and am very satisfied.
I'm using a previous-gen version of the Antec 300 and I truly love it as my case. The only thing I'd change is that the fan I have installed in the top is a bright blue LED fan, and I'd prefer one that doesn't have lights. I don't remember if that is one of the fans that came with the case, or one I added from a previous case.
I wish there was a way I could rip out the USB 3 header from that case and transplant it in mine. Doing some casual research earlier in the year, Antec doesn't seem to offer any sort of upgrade kit.
Antec used to be the go-to but they have generally failed to update their cases with new features that others now have.
Thanks, that's the push I needed. Monitor upgrade get! Now I just have to figure out what to do with the $24 credit I got at Dell that expires in 90 days.
I've got the S2716DG and it is pretty sweet. I think you'll be happy. Be sure to check out this ICC profile for color calibration.
Steam profile.
Getting started with BATTLETECH: Part 1 / Part 2
No problem! For arguments sake, we could also drop down to a GTX1060 if you weren't needing to DESTROY current specs, which could drop you down to the lower end of your hardware budget, OR would free up enough budget to add an SSD to the current build. Sky is the limit!
You could get one of these and one of their 240 Predators. It's going to be significantly more expensive then getting a different AIO then a 50-80$ hack job water block.
I run my kingpin 980ti's of their waterblock and have them attached to their 360mm AIO Predator and they stay very cool even overclocked. You can even pay them like 20 bucks and they will prefill the gpu waterblock so you don't have to add additional fluid to the reservoir after you hook them together.
― John Quincy Adams
Cable management isn't hard as long as you have a case that supports it. If you're not going to have a window and aren't too concerned about maximizing cooling (and you make sure none of your lines is going to contact a fan) than spaghetti isn't a big deal I guess, but if you want to show off a little it's worth it to make sure and get a case that will facilitate that.
A lot of budget cases will just have some holes cut out without even adding grommets or anything, which sucks. I've also noticed that even the largest cases don't really give you a ton of space behind the tray. Ideally they would give a lot more clearance, especially on larger mid tower and full tower cases.
I don't get this either. What's an extra 1/4" or 1/2"? It would make a WORLD of difference to the consumer.
Obviously you've not looked in the NZXT Manta. The curved side means it's got more space than most ATX cases behind the ITX board. Seriously, I didn't even bother to do any backside cable management in mine. And I've got this thing jammed full of crazy crap.
Locked CPUs still come with a stock fan, right? I do recall that unlocked ones don't, not that I'm interested in playing the overclock game.
Don't really know who is considered a good name for what components, so I sorta played it by ear. Still need to look at cases and figure out if there's any that tickle my fancy, and possibly see if there's any brick and mortars around that would have mechanical keyboards so I can feel what they're like (Des Moines area if anyone would know offhand).
Warframe/Steam: NFyt
Since Cannonlake looks to not be the processor launch I was expecting and I'm not in the mood to wait until Coffee Lake launches (assuming 2018 is accurate) I'm probably going to grab a 7700k and a 1080ti because fuck it it's been a while since I've built a gaming system for myself and I've been working a lot...
I'm sure I'll temper my desires once I price this stuff out though. $7-800 is a crap load for a single part.
I would not recommend this route. If you have a retail key and used the "free" Windows upgrade for Windows 7, Windows 8 (upgrade license or full release doesn't matter) you only need to punch in your original Win7/8 Key again after installing it on a new machine and reactivate Windows. The activation server remember that your license is eligible for Win 10.
This way you are still able to sell your Windows license if you so desire, you don't have to deactivate older installs and you still have access to your Windows license if your MS account should get hijacked.
I tried it myself (I swapped PCs and reinstalled Windows 10). My friend did something similar - swapping HDs with Windows 10 installs (pro and home) between two different PCs because he needed some of the pro features on the other machine.
I'm not sure I can justify a 1080Ti to the missus literally one year to the day after buying the 980Ti.