Welp, that was disappointing. Have to put my rebuild on hold because I can't for the life of me find my spare cables for my modular PSU, and the new mobo requires a second 4-pin CPU connection.
So phooey. I either buy a new PSU or go shopping for a new set of modular cables.
The manufacturer doesnt sell the cables?
Only in complete sets as near as I can tell (evga).
(edit: maybe I don't actually need the extra 4-pin connector. The 8-pin alone may suffice. Time to test this perhaps.)
Which cable is it - the cpu cable on mobo should just be an 8-pin, some psus have it as 2 4-pin but shouldn't matter.
In my experience auto overclocking is usually not very good. Manually doing it is usually the way to go for best results
But that’s going to require like effort and stuff! Unless there’s a good guide for how to do it since so many more options have been exposed since the last time o bothered ( black edition days)
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jungleroomxIt's never too many graves, it's always not enough shovelsRegistered Userregular
Welp, that was disappointing. Have to put my rebuild on hold because I can't for the life of me find my spare cables for my modular PSU, and the new mobo requires a second 4-pin CPU connection.
So phooey. I either buy a new PSU or go shopping for a new set of modular cables.
The manufacturer doesnt sell the cables?
Only in complete sets as near as I can tell (evga).
(edit: maybe I don't actually need the extra 4-pin connector. The 8-pin alone may suffice. Time to test this perhaps.)
Which cable is it - the cpu cable on mobo should just be an 8-pin, some psus have it as 2 4-pin but shouldn't matter.
The very real next standard is going to be 4K60 with really granular HDR local dimming. Right now we're in the middle of another LED/PLASMA/720/1080/BLURAY/HD-DVD clusterfuck where all these competing standards and tech are fighting it out. I don't think 8k becomes the norm in this, but I can definitely see 4k doing so.
I'd say in another few years the HDR local dimming matrix will be small enough and have good enough response that it will be worth getting, and in the next 5 it'll be a defacto standard.
Yeah I think we're 2-3 years out at least from really good local dimming. That's the biggest complaint of all of the 8k displays out right now, the halo effects for anything menu/desktop wise is awful.
Welp, that was disappointing. Have to put my rebuild on hold because I can't for the life of me find my spare cables for my modular PSU, and the new mobo requires a second 4-pin CPU connection.
So phooey. I either buy a new PSU or go shopping for a new set of modular cables.
@Pixelated Pixie You don't need an extra 4 pin, that's there for LN2/exotic cooling support. I'm only running the 8 pin on my 3900x.
Welp, that was disappointing. Have to put my rebuild on hold because I can't for the life of me find my spare cables for my modular PSU, and the new mobo requires a second 4-pin CPU connection.
So phooey. I either buy a new PSU or go shopping for a new set of modular cables.
My motherboard has a 4 pin and an 8 pin. The manual specifically says you can do both or just the 8, but not just the 4. So I did the just the 8, because it took forever to get the 8 in. (I should have done so before installing the motherboard.
So moved my PC to its permanent home today swapping it out with my old one connected to my TV. And guess what started getting WHEA uncorrectable error bluescreens. I narrowed it down to happening when I was playing audio through the HDMI output. Previously it had been connected to a monitor via HDMI without any audio being passed through as well. I also was getting some event log WHEA warnings as well.
Looking around I found that Gigabyte had a beta driver that was supposed to fix the WHEA warnings/errors. So I installed the beta BIOS and it seemed to fix the WHEA issues.
However after I reapplied my Memory/FCLK Overclock settings I had a random reboot so I decided to test my memory stability and HCL memtest locked it up pretty quickly.
Given that random reboots and memtest lockups had been FCLK related mostly in the previous benchmarking I then tried setting my SOC voltage to 1.2 volts (which had been needed when I was trying to run FCLK at 1900 but previously hadn't been needed at the 1866).
That seems to have fixed things as I was able to run HCL Memtest for an hour without any errors or lockups/reboots.
I've read that the extra 4-pin is needed for the X570 chipset and fan. /shrug
Either way, I have a cable on its way from a friend who has the same PSU.
Yay for the cable, but whoever wrote that is pretty much straight up wrong. The 8-pin connector can deliver 384 watts of power. Unless you are running an exotic cooling overclocking setup, you'll fry your processor before you come close to maxing out the 8 pin. Also I'm not entirely positive, but I'm pretty sure the chipset runs off of the 24 pin connector and the 8/4-pins are purely reserved for the CPU.
I've read that the extra 4-pin is needed for the X570 chipset and fan. /shrug
Either way, I have a cable on its way from a friend who has the same PSU.
Yay for the cable, but whoever wrote that is pretty much straight up wrong. The 8-pin connector can deliver 384 watts of power. Unless you are running an exotic cooling overclocking setup, you'll fry your processor before you come close to maxing out the 8 pin. Also I'm not entirely positive, but I'm pretty sure the chipset runs off of the 24 pin connector and the 8/4-pins are purely reserved for the CPU.
This is correct.
EPS power is strictly for extremely high draw CPUs which would typically occur with very high end overclocking.
Chipset fans and everything else on the board is supplied by the 24 pin.
Thanks, good to know. Would have been nice if the mobo manual had been clear on that instead of having a picture of the 24-pin and 8+4 pin headers with text saying "make sure all power connectors are plugged in." :evil:
I'd never encountered more than one CPU power plug before and it's been 5 years since I built my current system so I just figured things changed and we've progressed to needing two.
It's an issue--the kind that tech reviews, since they don't take place over a year or more typically, tend not to cover (reasonably enough). LG's IPS panels seem to be particularly "bad" about it, my own 27" LG has had it for a while now (currently localized in the edges...I hope), and it's not hard to find further complaints. Not everyone has it, but then again, not everyone's owned a monitor long enough for it to manifest.
Try setting up your PC to flash your display between solid white and black images (there are websites that do this, you can get a configuration file, or just use a screensaver)--if there's an immediately noticeable change (that doesn't last), it's image retention. If it doesn't, it's more likely to be burn-in. For my own LG, my brightness and backlighting settings are basically at the point where true white ought to be called "very light grey", and it's still noticeable. LG might be willing to help if ti happens within a year, but beyond that it's no longer their problem.
Otherwise I really like the monitor. Very solid furniture for a full-UHD office monitor, good colors and very good response time. Granted, I had to swap it to actually get one without any dead pixels, but LG's quality control, unlike their image retention measures, has probably gotten better. I'd absolutely buy another one if it wasn't for that retention.
I've heard image retention is less prevalent on TN panels, but for my next monitor I'll stick with IPS, I'll probably just avoid LG to start.
Thanks, good to know. Would have been nice if the mobo manual had been clear on that instead of having a picture of the 24-pin and 8+4 pin headers with text saying "make sure all power connectors are plugged in." :evil:
I'd never encountered more than one CPU power plug before and it's been 5 years since I built my current system so I just figured things changed and we've progressed to needing two.
Yep, all the mobo manuals I've seen in the last couple years have been awful at explaining this.
It's not harmful to have everything plugged in but they should at least tell you the minimum.
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HardtargetThere Are Four LightsVancouverRegistered Userregular
It's an issue--the kind that tech reviews, since they don't take place over a year or more typically, tend not to cover (reasonably enough). LG's IPS panels seem to be particularly "bad" about it, my own 27" LG has had it for a while now (currently localized in the edges...I hope), and it's not hard to find further complaints. Not everyone has it, but then again, not everyone's owned a monitor long enough for it to manifest.
Try setting up your PC to flash your display between solid white and black images (there are websites that do this, you can get a configuration file, or just use a screensaver)--if there's an immediately noticeable change (that doesn't last), it's image retention. If it doesn't, it's more likely to be burn-in. For my own LG, my brightness and backlighting settings are basically at the point where true white ought to be called "very light grey", and it's still noticeable. LG might be willing to help if ti happens within a year, but beyond that it's no longer their problem.
Otherwise I really like the monitor. Very solid furniture for a full-UHD office monitor, good colors and very good response time. Granted, I had to swap it to actually get one without any dead pixels, but LG's quality control, unlike their image retention measures, has probably gotten better. I'd absolutely buy another one if it wasn't for that retention.
I've heard image retention is less prevalent on TN panels, but for my next monitor I'll stick with IPS, I'll probably just avoid LG to start.
So wait. All IPS monitors eventually start burning in like that? It's just that LG is worse than normal?
And this is acceptable to people?
I have 2 old TN panels, they're probably a lot dimmer than they were back in the day, but they still don't have burn in, or "image retention." If I'm spending $500 for monitors and I have to look forward to the Start Menu and Brave tabs being permanently burned into my monitor... while also dealing with short term burn-in (image retention)... Just, yikes.
Or am I just thinking this is more of an issue than it really is?
Edit: Someone suggested the Gigabyte Aorus AD27QD as a good alternative to the LG... hm.
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OrcaAlso known as EspressosaurusWrexRegistered Userregular
edited August 2019
I've got a Dell IPS from probably 4 or 5 years ago with no burn-in or image retention problems. Couple stuck pixels (literally 2 I think? Shit, I don't remember, which shows you how much it has impacted me) but NBD on a 4K monitor.
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HardtargetThere Are Four LightsVancouverRegistered Userregular
edited August 2019
i have a nice 20inch dell ips monitor that is a decade old (my secondary now rotoated on its side), I've never heard of IPS tech somehow being 1:1 with image retention
It's an issue--the kind that tech reviews, since they don't take place over a year or more typically, tend not to cover (reasonably enough). LG's IPS panels seem to be particularly "bad" about it, my own 27" LG has had it for a while now (currently localized in the edges...I hope), and it's not hard to find further complaints. Not everyone has it, but then again, not everyone's owned a monitor long enough for it to manifest.
Try setting up your PC to flash your display between solid white and black images (there are websites that do this, you can get a configuration file, or just use a screensaver)--if there's an immediately noticeable change (that doesn't last), it's image retention. If it doesn't, it's more likely to be burn-in. For my own LG, my brightness and backlighting settings are basically at the point where true white ought to be called "very light grey", and it's still noticeable. LG might be willing to help if ti happens within a year, but beyond that it's no longer their problem.
Otherwise I really like the monitor. Very solid furniture for a full-UHD office monitor, good colors and very good response time. Granted, I had to swap it to actually get one without any dead pixels, but LG's quality control, unlike their image retention measures, has probably gotten better. I'd absolutely buy another one if it wasn't for that retention.
I've heard image retention is less prevalent on TN panels, but for my next monitor I'll stick with IPS, I'll probably just avoid LG to start.
So wait. All IPS monitors eventually start burning in like that? It's just that LG is worse than normal?
And this is acceptable to people?
I have 2 old TN panels, they're probably a lot dimmer than they were back in the day, but they still don't have burn in, or "image retention." If I'm spending $500 for monitors and I have to look forward to the Start Menu and Brave tabs being permanently burned into my monitor... while also dealing with short term burn-in (image retention)... Just, yikes.
Or am I just thinking this is more of an issue than it really is?
Edit: Someone suggested the Gigabyte Aorus AD27QD as a good alternative to the LG... hm.
No, and hopefully I didn't give that impression. It's just a known problem across multiple LG IPS panels, of different sizes, and multiple price points.
I have no idea how common it is on other IPS panels. I just know it's very, very easy to find descriptions of the exact same problem from other LG monitor users.
For all I know, LG just had a bad batch of IPS panels for...multiple years. And the problems only manifested after a few years of use, comfortably after most warranties. Wouldn't be the first time LG produced displays with abnormally high failure rates in some area. Personally, my own experience, combined with most of what I've seen, suggests it has more to do with a failing on LG's part than IPS panels as a whole.
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Ear3nd1lEärendil the Mariner, father of ElrondRegistered Userregular
I've got a couple of three year old HP IPS panels and they work great. Other than not being 4K, I can't complain about them.
It's an issue--the kind that tech reviews, since they don't take place over a year or more typically, tend not to cover (reasonably enough). LG's IPS panels seem to be particularly "bad" about it, my own 27" LG has had it for a while now (currently localized in the edges...I hope), and it's not hard to find further complaints. Not everyone has it, but then again, not everyone's owned a monitor long enough for it to manifest.
Try setting up your PC to flash your display between solid white and black images (there are websites that do this, you can get a configuration file, or just use a screensaver)--if there's an immediately noticeable change (that doesn't last), it's image retention. If it doesn't, it's more likely to be burn-in. For my own LG, my brightness and backlighting settings are basically at the point where true white ought to be called "very light grey", and it's still noticeable. LG might be willing to help if ti happens within a year, but beyond that it's no longer their problem.
Otherwise I really like the monitor. Very solid furniture for a full-UHD office monitor, good colors and very good response time. Granted, I had to swap it to actually get one without any dead pixels, but LG's quality control, unlike their image retention measures, has probably gotten better. I'd absolutely buy another one if it wasn't for that retention.
I've heard image retention is less prevalent on TN panels, but for my next monitor I'll stick with IPS, I'll probably just avoid LG to start.
So wait. All IPS monitors eventually start burning in like that? It's just that LG is worse than normal?
And this is acceptable to people?
I have 2 old TN panels, they're probably a lot dimmer than they were back in the day, but they still don't have burn in, or "image retention." If I'm spending $500 for monitors and I have to look forward to the Start Menu and Brave tabs being permanently burned into my monitor... while also dealing with short term burn-in (image retention)... Just, yikes.
Or am I just thinking this is more of an issue than it really is?
Edit: Someone suggested the Gigabyte Aorus AD27QD as a good alternative to the LG... hm.
No, and hopefully I didn't give that impression. It's just a known problem across multiple LG IPS panels, of different sizes, and multiple price points.
I have no idea how common it is on other IPS panels. I just know it's very, very easy to find descriptions of the exact same problem from other LG monitor users.
For all I know, LG just had a bad batch of IPS panels for...multiple years. And the problems only manifested after a few years of use, comfortably after most warranties. Wouldn't be the first time LG produced displays with abnormally high failure rates in some area. Personally, my own experience, combined with most of what I've seen, suggests it has more to do with a failing on LG's part than IPS panels as a whole.
K, I see.
Well, it looks like I have several months of time to wait for more information, since the LG and Sapphire Pulse are both out of stock till October at least.
In fact, there's a rumor that they'll be raising the price of the LG when they bring it back by a few hundred bucks. ($500 -> $750) Hope not, because uh, yikes.
The computer repair guy didn't bother installing the ASUS Rog software. Should I bother? Is there anything in it that's good?
I don't know that specific thing but it's probably useless bloatware.
If it's Armoury Crate, it's the software that handles the ASUS's RGB crap, as well as checks for updates for ASUS drivers -- AMD Chipset Driver (although it says version 19.10.16 which is NOTHING compared to the version on amd.com), Intel Ethernet, Realtek Audio, Realtek LAN. As well as checks for updates for some ASUS and partner utilities, like GameFirst V, AI Suite 3, and Chrome.
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Ear3nd1lEärendil the Mariner, father of ElrondRegistered Userregular
Back in the day, I always heard it was better to get your drivers from AMD/nVidia rather than the OEM. Is that still the case?
Yeesh I thought about getting a new CPU/Mobo/RAM with the Ryzen 5 3600, but there's literally only like 2 microATX mobos out there. Or is there little downside to not going X570/X470?
It's an issue--the kind that tech reviews, since they don't take place over a year or more typically, tend not to cover (reasonably enough). LG's IPS panels seem to be particularly "bad" about it, my own 27" LG has had it for a while now (currently localized in the edges...I hope), and it's not hard to find further complaints. Not everyone has it, but then again, not everyone's owned a monitor long enough for it to manifest.
Try setting up your PC to flash your display between solid white and black images (there are websites that do this, you can get a configuration file, or just use a screensaver)--if there's an immediately noticeable change (that doesn't last), it's image retention. If it doesn't, it's more likely to be burn-in. For my own LG, my brightness and backlighting settings are basically at the point where true white ought to be called "very light grey", and it's still noticeable. LG might be willing to help if ti happens within a year, but beyond that it's no longer their problem.
Otherwise I really like the monitor. Very solid furniture for a full-UHD office monitor, good colors and very good response time. Granted, I had to swap it to actually get one without any dead pixels, but LG's quality control, unlike their image retention measures, has probably gotten better. I'd absolutely buy another one if it wasn't for that retention.
I've heard image retention is less prevalent on TN panels, but for my next monitor I'll stick with IPS, I'll probably just avoid LG to start.
So wait. All IPS monitors eventually start burning in like that? It's just that LG is worse than normal?
And this is acceptable to people?
I have 2 old TN panels, they're probably a lot dimmer than they were back in the day, but they still don't have burn in, or "image retention." If I'm spending $500 for monitors and I have to look forward to the Start Menu and Brave tabs being permanently burned into my monitor... while also dealing with short term burn-in (image retention)... Just, yikes.
Or am I just thinking this is more of an issue than it really is?
Edit: Someone suggested the Gigabyte Aorus AD27QD as a good alternative to the LG... hm.
No, and hopefully I didn't give that impression. It's just a known problem across multiple LG IPS panels, of different sizes, and multiple price points.
I have no idea how common it is on other IPS panels. I just know it's very, very easy to find descriptions of the exact same problem from other LG monitor users.
For all I know, LG just had a bad batch of IPS panels for...multiple years. And the problems only manifested after a few years of use, comfortably after most warranties. Wouldn't be the first time LG produced displays with abnormally high failure rates in some area. Personally, my own experience, combined with most of what I've seen, suggests it has more to do with a failing on LG's part than IPS panels as a whole.
K, I see.
Well, it looks like I have several months of time to wait for more information, since the LG and Sapphire Pulse are both out of stock till October at least.
In fact, there's a rumor that they'll be raising the price of the LG when they bring it back by a few hundred bucks. ($500 -> $750) Hope not, because uh, yikes.
As I said, I would definitely buy another LG monitor to replace my current one--if I had some convincing reassurance about image retention (or a protection plan that did not come with a cost that would justify buying a higher-end monitor less likely to have the issues).
Gamescom Game Ready Driver Improves Performance By Up To 23%, And Brings New Ultra-Low Latency, Integer Scaling and Image Sharpening Features
Incindium on
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
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That_GuyI don't wanna be that guyRegistered Userregular
After a decade of loyal service, my wired Xbox 360 controller finally died today. I'm going to take it apart to see if I can resurrect it but I might have to pick up one of those newfangled X-bone controller to replace it. Just as I'm starting to use it again with my new rig. I can finally run FFXV at a decent frame rate and I'm really getting into it. It definitely needs a controller though.
After a decade of loyal service, my wired Xbox 360 controller finally died today. I'm going to take it apart to see if I can resurrect it but I might have to pick up one of those newfangled X-bone controller to replace it. Just as I'm starting to use it again with my new rig. I can finally run FFXV at a decent frame rate and I'm really getting into it. It definitely needs a controller though.
360 controllers are not so hard to come by if you don't want to switch--if you buy a wireless one (and get the adapter...which does add to the tedium and expense).
Conversely, if you own a PS4/PSFro, I'm pretty sure by now you can take your DS4 and plug it directly into a Windows 10 PC now...?
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jungleroomxIt's never too many graves, it's always not enough shovelsRegistered Userregular
After a decade of loyal service, my wired Xbox 360 controller finally died today. I'm going to take it apart to see if I can resurrect it but I might have to pick up one of those newfangled X-bone controller to replace it. Just as I'm starting to use it again with my new rig. I can finally run FFXV at a decent frame rate and I'm really getting into it. It definitely needs a controller though.
After a decade of loyal service, my wired Xbox 360 controller finally died today. I'm going to take it apart to see if I can resurrect it but I might have to pick up one of those newfangled X-bone controller to replace it. Just as I'm starting to use it again with my new rig. I can finally run FFXV at a decent frame rate and I'm really getting into it. It definitely needs a controller though.
Check out the Switch Pro con.
It's kinda glorious.
Opinions are like assholes, etc., but I do think the Switch Pro controller is somewhat overpriced for what you actually get, which feels like a mildly cheaper-feeling version of the DS4 (and substantially cheaper XB1 controller), that costs almost twice as much because Nintendo reasons. It's okay, but there are way better alternatives out there, both first and third party.
It's a huge improvement over anything involving the Switch controls, but I'm one of the group who thinks those are just terrible (and I don't even have particularly big hands). If you already have a Switch, no-brainer, but buying it just to plug it into a PC, which won't even use all of the functionality....hmm....
That_GuyI don't wanna be that guyRegistered Userregular
IT LIVES! I took it apart and cleaned the contacts with 90% ISO. Before It would come on for a second than just blink right off again. I even took the opportunity to swap the analog sticks so the less used one is the main one now.
I'm confused about M.2 drives. I have an ASUS Z97-A motherboard
The manual for the board says the following things:
This socket supports M Key and type 2260/2280 storage devices
M.2 & SATA Express Onboard: The latest transfer technologies with up to 10 Gb/s data transfer speeds
M.2 Socket 3 with M Key, type 2260/2280 storage devices support (supports PCIE SSD only)
The PCIe x1_1/2 slots share bandwidth with M.2 Socket 3.
I'm trying to figure out if there is any advantage other than form factor for me to get an M.2 drive but I remember there was something about it depending on whether or not your mobo used SATA or, I think it was PCIe, for the M.2 slot.
I think I can go with an NVME drive but I just wanted to make sure.
I'm confused about M.2 drives. I have an ASUS Z97-A motherboard
The manual for the board says the following things:
This socket supports M Key and type 2260/2280 storage devices
M.2 & SATA Express Onboard: The latest transfer technologies with up to 10 Gb/s data transfer speeds
M.2 Socket 3 with M Key, type 2260/2280 storage devices support (supports PCIE SSD only)
The PCIe x1_1/2 slots share bandwidth with M.2 Socket 3.
I'm trying to figure out if there is any advantage other than form factor for me to get an M.2 drive but I remember there was something about it depending on whether or not your mobo used SATA or, I think it was PCIe, for the M.2 slot.
I think I can go with an NVME drive but I just wanted to make sure.
2260/2280 is NVME, so you should be okay.
Also note it says the M.2 port is disabled by default, so you may have to manually switch it on in the BIOS.
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HardtargetThere Are Four LightsVancouverRegistered Userregular
Yeesh I thought about getting a new CPU/Mobo/RAM with the Ryzen 5 3600, but there's literally only like 2 microATX mobos out there. Or is there little downside to not going X570/X470?
i just got a buddy setup with a new mATX based Ryzen 5 3600. We used a Gigabyte B450M DS3H and it seems totally fine! Are you planning to use SLI or something? What's wrong with a B450 chipset.
Posts
8 pin + 4 pin.
But that’s going to require like effort and stuff! Unless there’s a good guide for how to do it since so many more options have been exposed since the last time o bothered ( black edition days)
Wait
Is that extra 4 pin for the X570 chipset?
Yeah I think we're 2-3 years out at least from really good local dimming. That's the biggest complaint of all of the 8k displays out right now, the halo effects for anything menu/desktop wise is awful.
@Pixelated Pixie You don't need an extra 4 pin, that's there for LN2/exotic cooling support. I'm only running the 8 pin on my 3900x.
Also I hate you all.
This will be here tomorrow: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L6DKM8V
Along with a longer DVI cable because the one I have is just too short.
Either way, I have a cable on its way from a friend who has the same PSU.
My motherboard has a 4 pin and an 8 pin. The manual specifically says you can do both or just the 8, but not just the 4. So I did the just the 8, because it took forever to get the 8 in. (I should have done so before installing the motherboard.
I imagine that's fairly standard?
Looking around I found that Gigabyte had a beta driver that was supposed to fix the WHEA warnings/errors. So I installed the beta BIOS and it seemed to fix the WHEA issues.
However after I reapplied my Memory/FCLK Overclock settings I had a random reboot so I decided to test my memory stability and HCL memtest locked it up pretty quickly.
Given that random reboots and memtest lockups had been FCLK related mostly in the previous benchmarking I then tried setting my SOC voltage to 1.2 volts (which had been needed when I was trying to run FCLK at 1900 but previously hadn't been needed at the 1866).
That seems to have fixed things as I was able to run HCL Memtest for an hour without any errors or lockups/reboots.
Hopefully that resolves things for good now.
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
Yay for the cable, but whoever wrote that is pretty much straight up wrong. The 8-pin connector can deliver 384 watts of power. Unless you are running an exotic cooling overclocking setup, you'll fry your processor before you come close to maxing out the 8 pin. Also I'm not entirely positive, but I'm pretty sure the chipset runs off of the 24 pin connector and the 8/4-pins are purely reserved for the CPU.
This is correct.
EPS power is strictly for extremely high draw CPUs which would typically occur with very high end overclocking.
Chipset fans and everything else on the board is supplied by the 24 pin.
I'd never encountered more than one CPU power plug before and it's been 5 years since I built my current system so I just figured things changed and we've progressed to needing two.
Uh.
Is that normal for an IPS?
Edit: I guess it's called Image Retention, a fancier name for burn in? Only this is rapid onset burn-in?
The TFT Central review of the LG 27GL850 says it's not an issue, but I hear it only starts after a year or two? https://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/lg_27gl850.htm
Also, apparently Monoprice has a 27" 1440@144 option. TN panel, though.
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=38576
Short answer--yes.
It's an issue--the kind that tech reviews, since they don't take place over a year or more typically, tend not to cover (reasonably enough). LG's IPS panels seem to be particularly "bad" about it, my own 27" LG has had it for a while now (currently localized in the edges...I hope), and it's not hard to find further complaints. Not everyone has it, but then again, not everyone's owned a monitor long enough for it to manifest.
Try setting up your PC to flash your display between solid white and black images (there are websites that do this, you can get a configuration file, or just use a screensaver)--if there's an immediately noticeable change (that doesn't last), it's image retention. If it doesn't, it's more likely to be burn-in. For my own LG, my brightness and backlighting settings are basically at the point where true white ought to be called "very light grey", and it's still noticeable. LG might be willing to help if ti happens within a year, but beyond that it's no longer their problem.
Otherwise I really like the monitor. Very solid furniture for a full-UHD office monitor, good colors and very good response time. Granted, I had to swap it to actually get one without any dead pixels, but LG's quality control, unlike their image retention measures, has probably gotten better. I'd absolutely buy another one if it wasn't for that retention.
I've heard image retention is less prevalent on TN panels, but for my next monitor I'll stick with IPS, I'll probably just avoid LG to start.
Yep, all the mobo manuals I've seen in the last couple years have been awful at explaining this.
It's not harmful to have everything plugged in but they should at least tell you the minimum.
lol
my sons just turned 5 and we've been real busy the past few days
that is quite the show on that case, i can only imagine what must be on the monitor!
i5 6500
ASRock Z170 Pro 4 mobo
16gb 2333 RAM (GSkill Ripjaws)
CoolerMaster HAF 912 (missing a few accessories)
NVidia GTX970 (EVGA OC FTW)
Toss me an offer if any of these sound p decent. I should have boxes for everything except the RAM.
So wait. All IPS monitors eventually start burning in like that? It's just that LG is worse than normal?
And this is acceptable to people?
I have 2 old TN panels, they're probably a lot dimmer than they were back in the day, but they still don't have burn in, or "image retention." If I'm spending $500 for monitors and I have to look forward to the Start Menu and Brave tabs being permanently burned into my monitor... while also dealing with short term burn-in (image retention)... Just, yikes.
Or am I just thinking this is more of an issue than it really is?
Edit: Someone suggested the Gigabyte Aorus AD27QD as a good alternative to the LG... hm.
No, and hopefully I didn't give that impression. It's just a known problem across multiple LG IPS panels, of different sizes, and multiple price points.
I have no idea how common it is on other IPS panels. I just know it's very, very easy to find descriptions of the exact same problem from other LG monitor users.
For all I know, LG just had a bad batch of IPS panels for...multiple years. And the problems only manifested after a few years of use, comfortably after most warranties. Wouldn't be the first time LG produced displays with abnormally high failure rates in some area. Personally, my own experience, combined with most of what I've seen, suggests it has more to do with a failing on LG's part than IPS panels as a whole.
K, I see.
Well, it looks like I have several months of time to wait for more information, since the LG and Sapphire Pulse are both out of stock till October at least.
In fact, there's a rumor that they'll be raising the price of the LG when they bring it back by a few hundred bucks. ($500 -> $750) Hope not, because uh, yikes.
I don't know that specific thing but it's probably useless bloatware.
If it's Armoury Crate, it's the software that handles the ASUS's RGB crap, as well as checks for updates for ASUS drivers -- AMD Chipset Driver (although it says version 19.10.16 which is NOTHING compared to the version on amd.com), Intel Ethernet, Realtek Audio, Realtek LAN. As well as checks for updates for some ASUS and partner utilities, like GameFirst V, AI Suite 3, and Chrome.
As I said, I would definitely buy another LG monitor to replace my current one--if I had some convincing reassurance about image retention (or a protection plan that did not come with a cost that would justify buying a higher-end monitor less likely to have the issues).
Gamescom Game Ready Driver Improves Performance By Up To 23%, And Brings New Ultra-Low Latency, Integer Scaling and Image Sharpening Features
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
360 controllers are not so hard to come by if you don't want to switch--if you buy a wireless one (and get the adapter...which does add to the tedium and expense).
Conversely, if you own a PS4/PSFro, I'm pretty sure by now you can take your DS4 and plug it directly into a Windows 10 PC now...?
Check out the Switch Pro con.
It's kinda glorious.
Opinions are like assholes, etc., but I do think the Switch Pro controller is somewhat overpriced for what you actually get, which feels like a mildly cheaper-feeling version of the DS4 (and substantially cheaper XB1 controller), that costs almost twice as much because Nintendo reasons. It's okay, but there are way better alternatives out there, both first and third party.
It's a huge improvement over anything involving the Switch controls, but I'm one of the group who thinks those are just terrible (and I don't even have particularly big hands). If you already have a Switch, no-brainer, but buying it just to plug it into a PC, which won't even use all of the functionality....hmm....
The manual for the board says the following things:
This socket supports M Key and type 2260/2280 storage devices
- M.2 & SATA Express Onboard: The latest transfer technologies with up to 10 Gb/s data transfer speeds
- M.2 Socket 3 with M Key, type 2260/2280 storage devices support (supports PCIE SSD only)
- The PCIe x1_1/2 slots share bandwidth with M.2 Socket 3.
I'm trying to figure out if there is any advantage other than form factor for me to get an M.2 drive but I remember there was something about it depending on whether or not your mobo used SATA or, I think it was PCIe, for the M.2 slot.I think I can go with an NVME drive but I just wanted to make sure.
SteamID: edgruberman GOG Galaxy: EdGruberman
2260/2280 is NVME, so you should be okay.
Also note it says the M.2 port is disabled by default, so you may have to manually switch it on in the BIOS.
i just got a buddy setup with a new mATX based Ryzen 5 3600. We used a Gigabyte B450M DS3H and it seems totally fine! Are you planning to use SLI or something? What's wrong with a B450 chipset.