The hobby supplies part of the hobby can run just as much as the miniatures themselves. Heck, I’ll pinch pennies with second hand 40k stuff and feel like I’m dying if I have to pay full retail for a kit, but happily put down 10 bucks a week on a new paint or brush or some glue. That stuff sneaks up on you.
Privateer Press paints generally get good reviews for color and coverage.
They sell them in six packs, themed to the various factions (IE Khador will get you red and grey paints, Cryx will be more Bone/Black/Green)
Depending on what you're painting, you might be better off just picking up a couple pots of likely colors at a time.
Like anything with the hobby, going big can result in some sticker shock. But if you space your purchases out you can delay the sticker shock until one boring day when you decide to add up how much you've spent on assorted tiny robots.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
I think we're getting ahead of ourselves, fellas.
Don't sweat why brand X is better than Y but worse than Z. Put some paint on some minis and go from there. Lest you end up like me who has, at current count, black paint from no less than 8 different brands (and I'm about to buy a 9th!) trying to find the perfect mix of coverage, consistency, and finish (it doesn't exist). I could rattle on for days about the merits of each and which colors are better in which ranges, but I won't.
Seriously I have so much fucking paint, you guys. It's a real problem.
I don't really know much about airbrushing - how big of a deal are the fumes? I've seen people on youtube wearing masks, and I imagine doing it in a cupboard is a bad idea, do you guys that use them do anything else?
At it's most basic level, air brushing is filling up the air around you with lots of very small, very fine paint particles. A little bit might cause some discomfort, but probably isn't going to mess you up. On the other hand, lungs HATE getting very fine, very small particles inside of them, so it's just one of those sensible precautions, like not whizzing on the electric fence.
So when I'm not spending all day/night in lab I've been used what little spare time to paint. I started this guy basically at the beginning of the month, and used white, grey, pink, and blue. Just single shades, and then made myself mix paints. Needless to say I'm quite happy with the results.
One down, two to go!
Koreg on
If, if Reagan played disco He'd shoot it to shit You can't disco in Jackboots
That AT-ST is beautiful and I want to caress it. Hope you varnished!
Also I've got Eisenhorn primed and ready for paint, just gotta ease off on Into The Breach and Witcher III 'cause oh boy I got my gaming bug back and rationing off my time is hard, you guys.
Kneel on
Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
I just realized how big those pictures posted. This is what I get for trying to put pictures up straight from imgur on my phone. Sorry about that.
... I figured that reaction was for quality, not for size.
It was definitely *not* because of the size of the pictures.
The skin and horns on that mini are mind-bogglingly good, @Koreg . Did it take, like, seventeen layers? It's so well blended, it's criminal.
Well that's good to know. I was going to figure out how to shrink them.
I used the following paints, all from Vallejo: Matt White, Warlock Purple, Ash Grey, and Troglodyte Blue.
Base coated in white, then a solid layer of the warlock purple (it's really just a tinted pink). The skin is only like 5 layers. A base, the top of the fins are two separate pink/white mixes. The first is a 1:2 then a 1:1 on top of it. I painted them, and after they dried a bit I used a watered down version to feather the layers twice to smooth the transitions. The shadows are the pink with grey in a similar fashion. The very inside is made with pink mixed with a very small amount of blue to make a darker purple color. I thinned it a lot and stippled it on, and didn't do strokes. This let it stick down in the bottom and form a speckled pattern with almost no work. I did some more severe highlights on the top of the eye ridges to try to get it to pop a bit more.
The horns, I simply left the bottom 1/3rd of the horns pink from when I did the skin, and did a few thin coats of ash grey. It gave them a pre-shaded look which worked better than I thought. Then it was again a 1:2 and 1:1 grey to white. This took maybe 5-6 hours total broken into a lot of 20-30 minute days
I didn't use any washes, just those four colors. If I can get the remaining 2 to look similar, I'm going to start a full demon squad using the same method. I think that I can get smoother results using a secondary color for my main color, white, and a dark toned primary color that belongs to my main color than using the triad system I was using before.
If, if Reagan played disco He'd shoot it to shit You can't disco in Jackboots
My general advice for airbrushing though is recognizing that it’s a whole world with a lot of elements and research. So if you are ready to take the plunge it’s super rewarding but will also be super overwhelming and frustrating at times.
But you’ll need an airbrush, a line, an air compressor minimum. But you’ll probably also want a respirator, a spray booth, a moisture trap and an airbrush holder/pot.
I got just an airbrush for Christmas and it was quite the ordeal getting it all set up to work right.
That's like saying, 'I just want to paint some gunpla.' You're going to be told you need paint, primer, this kind of brush, that kind of brush. There's a certain amount of front loading that needs to be done to get started.
You can buy dust masks at any store with a hardware section for a couple of bucks (50 on Amazon for$8.). As I mentioned up thread, inhaling micro-fine aersolized paint particles isn't much fun.
For model painting like Gundam kits, you want a gravity fed (you've got the little pot atop the airbrush), dual-action airbrush (dual action lets you control air flow and paint amount with a single finger motion. Single action only lets you do air flow on/off, so it's good for say, painting bigger objects, or just doing an all over coat, but not so good if you're working on small areas or fine detail).
Given the difference between painting a MG kit, and say, an entire Infinity force, that's probably more airbrush than you need. You might be able to get by with something like this. But, you get what you pay for.
If you're only doing the occasional model, you don't need a spray booth but it keeps those tiny paint particles contained. Just putting the model in a large box and using that as a backdrop could be sufficient.
A cleaning pot if pretty vital, because just like how you don't want to be breathing in aerosol paint particles, at some point you're going to be running cleaner through the brush, and you want to be breathing that in even less.
I was looking at the Mutalish Vortex beast today and it has me wondering... I see this tone of black all over the place with GW models, but how the heck is it achieved? Is it a grey that I don't know about or is it a shaded abbadon black?
Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
edited March 2018
Yeah, just a simple drybrush/highlight of standard black can get you some really nice looking results. For example, the flesh on my tyranids is simply black basecoat, codex grey drybrush, fortress grey light drybrush, but it gives you that blue-ish hue. Got to the Warhammer TV channel on youtube, and look up any of the videos where Duncan is working on black colors. That should show you what's happening.
Also, following my post last night, I put paint to model for the first time since... August (whenever I posted that Minotaur who was part of a scenic base, about to get owned by a redemptor dread, if anyone actually remembers that ) and hot damn, did it feel GOOD to paint again!
That's like saying, 'I just want to paint some gunpla.' You're going to be told you need paint, primer, this kind of brush, that kind of brush. There's a certain amount of front loading that needs to be done to get started.
You can buy dust masks at any store with a hardware section for a couple of bucks (50 on Amazon for$8.). As I mentioned up thread, inhaling micro-fine aersolized paint particles isn't much fun.
For model painting like Gundam kits, you want a gravity fed (you've got the little pot atop the airbrush), dual-action airbrush (dual action lets you control air flow and paint amount with a single finger motion. Single action only lets you do air flow on/off, so it's good for say, painting bigger objects, or just doing an all over coat, but not so good if you're working on small areas or fine detail).
Given the difference between painting a MG kit, and say, an entire Infinity force, that's probably more airbrush than you need. You might be able to get by with something like this. But, you get what you pay for.
If you're only doing the occasional model, you don't need a spray booth but it keeps those tiny paint particles contained. Just putting the model in a large box and using that as a backdrop could be sufficient.
A cleaning pot if pretty vital, because just like how you don't want to be breathing in aerosol paint particles, at some point you're going to be running cleaner through the brush, and you want to be breathing that in even less.
I most of the extra stuff, dad was a handyman so I have a lot of odds and end, just not specfically a airbrush.
Maybe I shoukd just grab one of those horribly rated testor ones as a trail run
ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
They protect his eyes from the plasma! That's just basic safety.
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Halos Nach TariffCan you blame me?I'm too famous.Registered Userregular
I painted a 40k for once, I've actually had this in its box since the Tyranid codex dropped with the intention of jumping back into 40k with 8th ed, but I didn't find it that much fun. But I signed up for a little 12 week tournament thing at my local GW, and I can hardly play in that without at least slapping some paint on it.
+12
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Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
I feel like building the "Gets Hot!" model is a right of passage for all Space Marine players.
It's works well with the fact he's facing down 10 tonnes of charging hierodule, and I had the 'gun fire' effect piece from armorcast, which, flipped around, makes a really good plasma ball! The whole thng just has such an amusing, 'I'm screwed, fuck it' vibe going on.
Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
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Nova_CI have the needThe need for speedRegistered Userregular
edited March 2018
So, I am super intimidated by you guys, but I have come back to check in with my progress!
You may remember my early efforts with painting minis:
I got some advice from this thread, some from the Reaper minis forums, and I kept working at it:
I didn't understanding how washing and dry brushing worked, though, and the very idea of highlighting was terrifying. I met some people playing D&D, though, that paint minis and have gotten a lot of pointers, so I've been working at it.
This was my most recent mini. The camera flash made the flesh wash on her face go splotchy. She actually looks really good under normal lighting, and I'm pretty happy with my progress.
My next mini is the Cragheart I'm playing in Gloomhaven, and I want to paint a paladin looking warrior mini after that.
I've started thinking about that massive clockwork dragon mini I have, and hope to tackle that one soon.....
Nova_C on
+16
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Hey Nova! Long time no C (I'm fired. I'll see myself out)~
For what it's worth, most of us here intimidate each other too. It never matters how good you are, everyone else still seems better. Just keep doing your thing, because practice is the only reason any of us got where we are now anyway.
Posts
They sell them in six packs, themed to the various factions (IE Khador will get you red and grey paints, Cryx will be more Bone/Black/Green)
Depending on what you're painting, you might be better off just picking up a couple pots of likely colors at a time.
Like anything with the hobby, going big can result in some sticker shock. But if you space your purchases out you can delay the sticker shock until one boring day when you decide to add up how much you've spent on assorted tiny robots.
Don't sweat why brand X is better than Y but worse than Z. Put some paint on some minis and go from there. Lest you end up like me who has, at current count, black paint from no less than 8 different brands (and I'm about to buy a 9th!) trying to find the perfect mix of coverage, consistency, and finish (it doesn't exist). I could rattle on for days about the merits of each and which colors are better in which ranges, but I won't.
Seriously I have so much fucking paint, you guys. It's a real problem.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Started work on my Typhus today and went back to this photo for reference.
What did you use to get the blue finish on the helm @Kneel
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Celestra Grey base, washed with thinned (via lamhmian medium) Drakenhof Nightshade, highlighted with Celestra/Ulthuan/White.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
No solvents in those water based acrylics, and Tamiya's are mild as milkwater... :sad:
Also, old drafts are _old._
At it's most basic level, air brushing is filling up the air around you with lots of very small, very fine paint particles. A little bit might cause some discomfort, but probably isn't going to mess you up. On the other hand, lungs HATE getting very fine, very small particles inside of them, so it's just one of those sensible precautions, like not whizzing on the electric fence.
All us lead daemons are good at is dread-socking...
BRB, I gotta go nude up some manz!
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
One down, two to go!
Thinking about doing all my Legion bases like this. IDK yet if it'll be worth that much work, though.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Also I've got Eisenhorn primed and ready for paint, just gotta ease off on Into The Breach and Witcher III 'cause oh boy I got my gaming bug back and rationing off my time is hard, you guys.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
I just realized how big those pictures posted. This is what I get for trying to put pictures up straight from imgur on my phone. Sorry about that.
... I figured that reaction was for quality, not for size.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
It was definitely *not* because of the size of the pictures.
The skin and horns on that mini are mind-bogglingly good, @Koreg . Did it take, like, seventeen layers? It's so well blended, it's criminal.
Well that's good to know. I was going to figure out how to shrink them.
I used the following paints, all from Vallejo: Matt White, Warlock Purple, Ash Grey, and Troglodyte Blue.
Base coated in white, then a solid layer of the warlock purple (it's really just a tinted pink). The skin is only like 5 layers. A base, the top of the fins are two separate pink/white mixes. The first is a 1:2 then a 1:1 on top of it. I painted them, and after they dried a bit I used a watered down version to feather the layers twice to smooth the transitions. The shadows are the pink with grey in a similar fashion. The very inside is made with pink mixed with a very small amount of blue to make a darker purple color. I thinned it a lot and stippled it on, and didn't do strokes. This let it stick down in the bottom and form a speckled pattern with almost no work. I did some more severe highlights on the top of the eye ridges to try to get it to pop a bit more.
The horns, I simply left the bottom 1/3rd of the horns pink from when I did the skin, and did a few thin coats of ash grey. It gave them a pre-shaded look which worked better than I thought. Then it was again a 1:2 and 1:1 grey to white. This took maybe 5-6 hours total broken into a lot of 20-30 minute days
I didn't use any washes, just those four colors. If I can get the remaining 2 to look similar, I'm going to start a full demon squad using the same method. I think that I can get smoother results using a secondary color for my main color, white, and a dark toned primary color that belongs to my main color than using the triad system I was using before.
What are you planning to use it for?
My general advice for airbrushing though is recognizing that it’s a whole world with a lot of elements and research. So if you are ready to take the plunge it’s super rewarding but will also be super overwhelming and frustrating at times.
But you’ll need an airbrush, a line, an air compressor minimum. But you’ll probably also want a respirator, a spray booth, a moisture trap and an airbrush holder/pot.
I got just an airbrush for Christmas and it was quite the ordeal getting it all set up to work right.
A noble endeavor! So you’ll probably be using it for paint and clear coats then.
Will you be airbrushing indoors or outdoors? How humid is it where you live?
Inside my house is fine though
That's like saying, 'I just want to paint some gunpla.' You're going to be told you need paint, primer, this kind of brush, that kind of brush. There's a certain amount of front loading that needs to be done to get started.
You can buy dust masks at any store with a hardware section for a couple of bucks (50 on Amazon for$8.). As I mentioned up thread, inhaling micro-fine aersolized paint particles isn't much fun.
For model painting like Gundam kits, you want a gravity fed (you've got the little pot atop the airbrush), dual-action airbrush (dual action lets you control air flow and paint amount with a single finger motion. Single action only lets you do air flow on/off, so it's good for say, painting bigger objects, or just doing an all over coat, but not so good if you're working on small areas or fine detail).
Given the difference between painting a MG kit, and say, an entire Infinity force, that's probably more airbrush than you need. You might be able to get by with something like this. But, you get what you pay for.
If you're only doing the occasional model, you don't need a spray booth but it keeps those tiny paint particles contained. Just putting the model in a large box and using that as a backdrop could be sufficient.
A cleaning pot if pretty vital, because just like how you don't want to be breathing in aerosol paint particles, at some point you're going to be running cleaner through the brush, and you want to be breathing that in even less.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Also, following my post last night, I put paint to model for the first time since... August (whenever I posted that Minotaur who was part of a scenic base, about to get owned by a redemptor dread, if anyone actually remembers that ) and hot damn, did it feel GOOD to paint again!
I most of the extra stuff, dad was a handyman so I have a lot of odds and end, just not specfically a airbrush.
Maybe I shoukd just grab one of those horribly rated testor ones as a trail run
Thank you!
That's exactly what I needed
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Most don't live to tell the tale
It's works well with the fact he's facing down 10 tonnes of charging hierodule, and I had the 'gun fire' effect piece from armorcast, which, flipped around, makes a really good plasma ball! The whole thng just has such an amusing, 'I'm screwed, fuck it' vibe going on.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
You may remember my early efforts with painting minis:
I got some advice from this thread, some from the Reaper minis forums, and I kept working at it:
I didn't understanding how washing and dry brushing worked, though, and the very idea of highlighting was terrifying. I met some people playing D&D, though, that paint minis and have gotten a lot of pointers, so I've been working at it.
This was my most recent mini. The camera flash made the flesh wash on her face go splotchy. She actually looks really good under normal lighting, and I'm pretty happy with my progress.
My next mini is the Cragheart I'm playing in Gloomhaven, and I want to paint a paladin looking warrior mini after that.
I've started thinking about that massive clockwork dragon mini I have, and hope to tackle that one soon.....
For what it's worth, most of us here intimidate each other too. It never matters how good you are, everyone else still seems better. Just keep doing your thing, because practice is the only reason any of us got where we are now anyway.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?