So, smoke test was successful, though the inability to set things up until I got the AM3 bracket meant that I had to go pick up my wife right after. So when we get home, assembly.
I still do not understand why you need an AM3 bracket for an AM4 CPU and how that was a thing that had to be ordered (I know my Kraken came with the AM3 bracket) but at this point I'm not going to bother.
I'll worry about it if/when I ever decide to build an AMD PC.
Because Corsair was dragging their ass on getting me the AM4 bracket for the H115i.
Edit: And what I needed wasn't the bracket, but the backplate that goes with it, so I could use the cooler's AM3 mounting bracket.
My Gigabyte AX370 Gaming 5 motherboard seems to be missing the option to even enable a turbo boost mode. I wonder if it's just an early BIOS thing. If I want to actually run the Ryzen 1700 at its boost of 3.7 GHz, I'll have to do it manually for now.
Speaking of overclocking, does anyone have thoughts on features like Global C-State Control and AMD Cool & Quiet? Opinions seem mixed. Some people suggest turning everything off, other say to just disable C6 Mode (I don't have that option, just the Global C-State Control), and then there are those saying disabling them only helps an unstable overclock to appear stable. So far I've just been laving those settings to their defaults and pushing my clock speed higher. I haven't had any performance issues yet.
Xbox Live, PSN & Origin: Vacorsis 3DS: 2638-0037-166
I have an M.2 question and I'm not sure if I'm getting clear information out there:
My MB (ASUS Sabertooth Z170 S) supports M.2 drives. The BIOS configuration options are [SATA Express_1] and [M.2]. If I had a M.2 drive (I don't, this is just for info purposes.), what would be the choice so that it runs off of PCIe? Is that [M.2]?
And if I used [SATA Express_1] would that somehow interfere with SATA drives attached to the first two SATA ports?
I have an M.2 question and I'm not sure if I'm getting clear information out there:
My MB (ASUS Sabertooth Z170 S) supports M.2 drives. The BIOS configuration options are [SATA Express_1] and [M.2]. If I had a M.2 drive (I don't, this is just for info purposes.), what would be the choice so that it runs off of PCIe? Is that [M.2]?
And if I used [SATA Express_1] would that somehow interfere with SATA drives attached to the first two SATA ports?
Answer to question 1: it would depend on the drive. Some m.2 drives are actually sata devices with the m.2 interface. You would (probably) need to set it to sata express and the drive would run at the same speed as a normal sata device (IE there is no benefit outside of the form factor). Other drives support the more advanced standard that moves data over NVME, and those need to be set to the higher speed setting (probably m.2). Most (maybe all) high speed drives actually support both interfaces, but there is no good reason to set it to the slower mode. The names that the board is using to describe the two different speeds are a little ambiguous (m.2 can refer to either speed, and sata express has words that imply both the slower speed (sata) and the higher speed (pci express)), so you might want to look at the manual or the longer description in the bios to make sure.
Answer to question 2: No, the discrete sata ports should be their own thing. However, if your machine has two m.2 slots it is possible that they can't be configured separately and both need to always be set to the same thing. Also, I've seen 2 slot boards where one slot was only sata and the other was sata or NVME, but setting the NVME slot to NVME had to disable the sata only slot. It's probably best to check up in the mainboard manual to make sure of the fiddly bits.
I have an M.2 question and I'm not sure if I'm getting clear information out there:
My MB (ASUS Sabertooth Z170 S) supports M.2 drives. The BIOS configuration options are [SATA Express_1] and [M.2]. If I had a M.2 drive (I don't, this is just for info purposes.), what would be the choice so that it runs off of PCIe? Is that [M.2]?
And if I used [SATA Express_1] would that somehow interfere with SATA drives attached to the first two SATA ports?
Answer to question 1: it would depend on the drive. Some m.2 drives are actually sata devices with the m.2 interface. You would (probably) need to set it to sata express and the drive would run at the same speed as a normal sata device (IE there is no benefit outside of the form factor). Other drives support the more advanced standard that moves data over NVME, and those need to be set to the higher speed setting (probably m.2). Most (maybe all) high speed drives actually support both interfaces, but there is no good reason to set it to the slower mode. The names that the board is using to describe the two different speeds are a little ambiguous (m.2 can refer to either speed, and sata express has words that imply both the slower speed (sata) and the higher speed (pci express)), so you might want to look at the manual or the longer description in the bios to make sure.
Answer to question 2: No, the discrete sata ports should be their own thing. However, if your machine has two m.2 slots it is possible that they can't be configured separately and both need to always be set to the same thing. Also, I've seen 2 slot boards where one slot was only sata and the other was sata or NVME, but setting the NVME slot to NVME had to disable the sata only slot. It's probably best to check up in the mainboard manual to make sure of the fiddly bits.
addendum to q2:
some boards will disable certain SATA ports if you're using a m.2 drive in SATA mode
the one I just built for my friend did that
only so many lanes in the SATA controller I guess
life's a game that you're bound to lose / like using a hammer to pound in screws
fuck up once and you break your thumb / if you're happy at all then you're god damn dumb
that's right we're on a fucked up cruise / God is dead but at least we have booze
bad things happen, no one knows why / the sun burns out and everyone dies
I guess I need to pass closer attention to picker readout since Dhalphir suggested a mobo that isn't even compatible with kaby lake.
Unless I can update the B150 through the bios, which preliminary research suggests "no, you can't." I guess we'll see when I get it. Just a mild pain if it isn't.
I have an M.2 question and I'm not sure if I'm getting clear information out there:
My MB (ASUS Sabertooth Z170 S) supports M.2 drives. The BIOS configuration options are [SATA Express_1] and [M.2]. If I had a M.2 drive (I don't, this is just for info purposes.), what would be the choice so that it runs off of PCIe? Is that [M.2]?
And if I used [SATA Express_1] would that somehow interfere with SATA drives attached to the first two SATA ports?
Answer to question 1: it would depend on the drive. Some m.2 drives are actually sata devices with the m.2 interface. You would (probably) need to set it to sata express and the drive would run at the same speed as a normal sata device (IE there is no benefit outside of the form factor). Other drives support the more advanced standard that moves data over NVME, and those need to be set to the higher speed setting (probably m.2). Most (maybe all) high speed drives actually support both interfaces, but there is no good reason to set it to the slower mode. The names that the board is using to describe the two different speeds are a little ambiguous (m.2 can refer to either speed, and sata express has words that imply both the slower speed (sata) and the higher speed (pci express)), so you might want to look at the manual or the longer description in the bios to make sure.
Answer to question 2: No, the discrete sata ports should be their own thing. However, if your machine has two m.2 slots it is possible that they can't be configured separately and both need to always be set to the same thing. Also, I've seen 2 slot boards where one slot was only sata and the other was sata or NVME, but setting the NVME slot to NVME had to disable the sata only slot. It's probably best to check up in the mainboard manual to make sure of the fiddly bits.
addendum to q2:
some boards will disable certain SATA ports if you're using a m.2 drive in SATA mode
the one I just built for my friend did that
only so many lanes in the SATA controller I guess
So basically, when it comes time, I just need to pay attention to the drive itself. Likely ones that support NVME. Though, likely for later when prices come down a bit more (read: metric assload).
I have an M.2 question and I'm not sure if I'm getting clear information out there:
My MB (ASUS Sabertooth Z170 S) supports M.2 drives. The BIOS configuration options are [SATA Express_1] and [M.2]. If I had a M.2 drive (I don't, this is just for info purposes.), what would be the choice so that it runs off of PCIe? Is that [M.2]?
And if I used [SATA Express_1] would that somehow interfere with SATA drives attached to the first two SATA ports?
Answer to question 1: it would depend on the drive. Some m.2 drives are actually sata devices with the m.2 interface. You would (probably) need to set it to sata express and the drive would run at the same speed as a normal sata device (IE there is no benefit outside of the form factor). Other drives support the more advanced standard that moves data over NVME, and those need to be set to the higher speed setting (probably m.2). Most (maybe all) high speed drives actually support both interfaces, but there is no good reason to set it to the slower mode. The names that the board is using to describe the two different speeds are a little ambiguous (m.2 can refer to either speed, and sata express has words that imply both the slower speed (sata) and the higher speed (pci express)), so you might want to look at the manual or the longer description in the bios to make sure.
Answer to question 2: No, the discrete sata ports should be their own thing. However, if your machine has two m.2 slots it is possible that they can't be configured separately and both need to always be set to the same thing. Also, I've seen 2 slot boards where one slot was only sata and the other was sata or NVME, but setting the NVME slot to NVME had to disable the sata only slot. It's probably best to check up in the mainboard manual to make sure of the fiddly bits.
addendum to q2:
some boards will disable certain SATA ports if you're using a m.2 drive in SATA mode
the one I just built for my friend did that
only so many lanes in the SATA controller I guess
So basically, when it comes time, I just need to pay attention to the drive itself. Likely ones that support NVME. Though, likely for later when prices come down a bit more (read: metric assload).
Also, go check reviews at reputable hardware review sites. Some drive vendors are selling nominally NVME drives that use slower flash memory and/or have controller firmware limitations that cripple their performance. Basically, if you're thinking of picking up an NVME drive that's not from Samsung, make sure you read a review with benchmarks that indicates that it actually outperforms SATA throughput.
The sadness of a OC that was stable for month now crashes on boot every single time
Have you tried adding more voltage? How old is your power supply and how stable or consistent are the voltages coming out of it? Has the CPU cooler somehow worked it's way loose and is not making proper contact anymore?
I guess I need to pass closer attention to picker readout since Dhalphir suggested a mobo that isn't even compatible with kaby lake.
Unless I can update the B150 through the bios, which preliminary research suggests "no, you can't." I guess we'll see when I get it. Just a mild pain if it isn't.
Ugh, that's my fault, sorry. Damn, I feel really bad. I should have checked more closely. I knew B150 worked with Skylake, and assumed it would work with Kaby Lake.
Hopefully you can source a return, if the BIOS update doesn't work? Companies are usually pretty happy to help in scenarios like this.
I guess I need to pass closer attention to picker readout since Dhalphir suggested a mobo that isn't even compatible with kaby lake.
Unless I can update the B150 through the bios, which preliminary research suggests "no, you can't." I guess we'll see when I get it. Just a mild pain if it isn't.
Get it through amazon? Can you just refuse delivery and get something else?
" I am a warrior, so that my son may be a merchant, so that his son may be a poet.”
― John Quincy Adams
I'll just check their return policy. Seems easier to just return it unopened and use price match to get a mobo from Best Buy or some place. Some places give you shit for trying to return opened merch, and frankly I don't want to deal with having to track down a compatible CPU from a friend or whatever just to update my dang bios.
EDIT: Haha, I knew Best Buy sucks for PC parts, but they don't even carry them. Good thing I still have Prime.
Sterica on
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Casually HardcoreOnce an Asshole. Trying to be better.Registered Userregular
The sadness of a OC that was stable for month now crashes on boot every single time
Have you tried adding more voltage? How old is your power supply and how stable or consistent are the voltages coming out of it? Has the CPU cooler somehow worked it's way loose and is not making proper contact anymore?
Yeah, I'm not looking forward on doing the whole song and dance when I'm mostly playing Zelda. Maybe once I install a custom water loop I'll go through all that once more.
If anyone's got a recommendation for a mobo that's kaby lake compatible just let me know. Don't really need any frills
After some research to make sure I wasn't mucking it up again, the B250 is the successor to the B150. Or, if you want extra USB ports and other features (sometimes cheaper motherboards don't have wifi, for example), you could spring for the H270.
Well I was about to go to bed, but I've just been stuck with unbearably loud, continuous coil whine. When playing games, it's actually louder in-game than at menus. I'd almost describe it as spinning or ramping up as soon as I close the menu, too. I think it may be the ASUS Strix 1080, but it could be the motherboard. It's hard to tell.
Dashui on
Xbox Live, PSN & Origin: Vacorsis 3DS: 2638-0037-166
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Dhalphirdon't you open that trapdooryou're a fool if you dareRegistered Userregular
Well I was about to go to bed, but I've just been stuck with unbearably loud, continuous coil whine. When playing games, it's actually louder in-game than at menus. I'd almost describe it as spinning or ramping up as soon as I close the menu, too. I think it may be the ASUS Strix 1080, but it could be the motherboard. It's hard to tell.
Strix is pretty infamous for coil whine iirc, at least that's what I got told when my 980Ti started doing it.
Well I was about to go to bed, but I've just been stuck with unbearably loud, continuous coil whine. When playing games, it's actually louder in-game than at menus. I'd almost describe it as spinning or ramping up as soon as I close the menu, too. I think it may be the ASUS Strix 1080, but it could be the motherboard. It's hard to tell.
Strix is pretty infamous for coil whine iirc, at least that's what I got told when my 980Ti started doing it.
The inductors in a graphics card are for the most part used in its VRM, or voltage regulation module. VRMs are a type of DC-DC switch-mode power supply, usually a synchronous multi-phase buck regulator. This means that it uses a bunch of "phases" in parallel, each consisting of a pair of transistors, an inductor, and a capacitor, to change the +12V input from your PSU to 1.xxV for your GPU to use.
In order to supply a different voltage or different current the transistors switch on and off at different frequencies. If the GPU demands more current, then that will cause a voltage drop across the inductor, which makes the transistors switch faster to keep the voltage where it needs to be. And the reverse. All this happens in microseconds.
An inductor stores electricity in a magnetic field. This magnetic field pushes and pulls on the ferrite core used in some inductors. When the voltage across the inductor changes, the magnetic field changes, and the inductor moves slightly. When the voltage changes very, very quickly (as is the case when switching transistors are changing its voltage thousands of times a second) the inductor vibrates. And that vibration, if it is between 20Hz and 20,000Hz, is audible to the human ear. Hence whine.
The frequency at which the switching transistors operates varies, but it's generally between 10,000Hz and 100,000Hz. If your GPU is whining, the transistors are switching at between 10,000 and 20,000Hz, or a primary harmonic of those frequencies. So if you want to stop the whining, you need to make the transistors operate at a different frequency.
So you change the amount of power drawn. Overclock and overvolt your GPU and the transistors will need to switch faster to provide power to the GPU, and if you're luck you'll bump them from 17,000Hz to 24,000Hz. Underclocking may work as well. And suddenly your GPU will whine no more.
You could also use a different PSU that outputs a slightly higher or lower voltage on the +12V rail, which will also change the frequency the transistors need to work at.
EDIT:
I also saw a suggestion to turn on VSYNC to mitigate it.
Yeah Vsync will help as the coil whine usually helps keep the super high frame rates on menu screens in check. That's usually what causes that noise.
What PSU are you using?
I know all about enabling vsync for coil whine. It didn't help at all.
I'm going to swap out the graphics card in a little bit to make sure it's that and not something else. I almost hope it is the card so I can submit an RMA request to ASUS, because anything else would be a much larger pain in the ass.
My power supply is an EVGA Supernova 750 P2.
Dashui on
Xbox Live, PSN & Origin: Vacorsis 3DS: 2638-0037-166
Is there any reason why the Media Creation Tool is being stupid and not recognizing my stick when trying to create a USB install? Brand new scandisk, more than enough memory to hold it.
It really chaps my ass when game devs don't put in some sort of framerate limiter in their games.
There is no reason for a game menu to be rendering at 3,000 fps and my GPU sounding like an old Honda that won't start.
Cant you force vsync through Nvidia/AMD drivers?
Yeah, but the whole point of getting a beefyass GPU is to watch it flex and see how well it performs in-game. I only have a 60hz monitor so I'm missing a lot of performance info with it enabled.
Plus vsync has a host of issues that don't always make it a solid choice, so using it as a blanket option might not be the best idea.
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HeatwaveCome, now, and walk the path of explosions with me!Registered Userregular
edited March 2017
Not an expert, but do you need to setup the "boot from USB" thing in the bios?
It really chaps my ass when game devs don't put in some sort of framerate limiter in their games.
There is no reason for a game menu to be rendering at 3,000 fps and my GPU sounding like an old Honda that won't start.
Cant you force vsync through Nvidia/AMD drivers?
Yeah, but the whole point of getting a beefyass GPU is to watch it flex and see how well it performs in-game. I only have a 60hz monitor so I'm missing a lot of performance info with it enabled.
Plus vsync has a host of issues that don't always make it a solid choice, so using it as a blanket option might not be the best idea.
I'm pretty sure you can create per game profiles since that's what you have to do to get super sampling to work.
Edit: but yeah, vsync isn't going to let you set your frame rate to above your refresh rate. Although I'm not sure how to gel wanting to see what a beefy gpu can do in older games with not wanting to see 3000fps.
Zxerolfor the smaller pieces, my shovel wouldn't doso i took off my boot and used my shoeRegistered Userregular
Alternatively, you could use the media tool to produce an ISO and then write it to a USB drive using something like Rufus. In my experience, the tool can sometimes fail to recognize an available drive for who-knows-why.
Posts
Because Corsair was dragging their ass on getting me the AM4 bracket for the H115i.
Edit: And what I needed wasn't the bracket, but the backplate that goes with it, so I could use the cooler's AM3 mounting bracket.
Speaking of overclocking, does anyone have thoughts on features like Global C-State Control and AMD Cool & Quiet? Opinions seem mixed. Some people suggest turning everything off, other say to just disable C6 Mode (I don't have that option, just the Global C-State Control), and then there are those saying disabling them only helps an unstable overclock to appear stable. So far I've just been laving those settings to their defaults and pushing my clock speed higher. I haven't had any performance issues yet.
My MB (ASUS Sabertooth Z170 S) supports M.2 drives. The BIOS configuration options are [SATA Express_1] and [M.2]. If I had a M.2 drive (I don't, this is just for info purposes.), what would be the choice so that it runs off of PCIe? Is that [M.2]?
And if I used [SATA Express_1] would that somehow interfere with SATA drives attached to the first two SATA ports?
Answer to question 1: it would depend on the drive. Some m.2 drives are actually sata devices with the m.2 interface. You would (probably) need to set it to sata express and the drive would run at the same speed as a normal sata device (IE there is no benefit outside of the form factor). Other drives support the more advanced standard that moves data over NVME, and those need to be set to the higher speed setting (probably m.2). Most (maybe all) high speed drives actually support both interfaces, but there is no good reason to set it to the slower mode. The names that the board is using to describe the two different speeds are a little ambiguous (m.2 can refer to either speed, and sata express has words that imply both the slower speed (sata) and the higher speed (pci express)), so you might want to look at the manual or the longer description in the bios to make sure.
Answer to question 2: No, the discrete sata ports should be their own thing. However, if your machine has two m.2 slots it is possible that they can't be configured separately and both need to always be set to the same thing. Also, I've seen 2 slot boards where one slot was only sata and the other was sata or NVME, but setting the NVME slot to NVME had to disable the sata only slot. It's probably best to check up in the mainboard manual to make sure of the fiddly bits.
addendum to q2:
some boards will disable certain SATA ports if you're using a m.2 drive in SATA mode
the one I just built for my friend did that
only so many lanes in the SATA controller I guess
fuck up once and you break your thumb / if you're happy at all then you're god damn dumb
that's right we're on a fucked up cruise / God is dead but at least we have booze
bad things happen, no one knows why / the sun burns out and everyone dies
Unless I can update the B150 through the bios, which preliminary research suggests "no, you can't." I guess we'll see when I get it. Just a mild pain if it isn't.
So basically, when it comes time, I just need to pay attention to the drive itself. Likely ones that support NVME. Though, likely for later when prices come down a bit more (read: metric assload).
Also, go check reviews at reputable hardware review sites. Some drive vendors are selling nominally NVME drives that use slower flash memory and/or have controller firmware limitations that cripple their performance. Basically, if you're thinking of picking up an NVME drive that's not from Samsung, make sure you read a review with benchmarks that indicates that it actually outperforms SATA throughput.
Have you tried adding more voltage? How old is your power supply and how stable or consistent are the voltages coming out of it? Has the CPU cooler somehow worked it's way loose and is not making proper contact anymore?
Ugh, that's my fault, sorry. Damn, I feel really bad. I should have checked more closely. I knew B150 worked with Skylake, and assumed it would work with Kaby Lake.
Hopefully you can source a return, if the BIOS update doesn't work? Companies are usually pretty happy to help in scenarios like this.
Get it through amazon? Can you just refuse delivery and get something else?
― John Quincy Adams
EDIT: Haha, I knew Best Buy sucks for PC parts, but they don't even carry them. Good thing I still have Prime.
Yeah, I'm not looking forward on doing the whole song and dance when I'm mostly playing Zelda. Maybe once I install a custom water loop I'll go through all that once more.
Here's list of ASUS pre-270 MBs that had added support for Kaby Lake.
After some research to make sure I wasn't mucking it up again, the B250 is the successor to the B150. Or, if you want extra USB ports and other features (sometimes cheaper motherboards don't have wifi, for example), you could spring for the H270.
Strix is pretty infamous for coil whine iirc, at least that's what I got told when my 980Ti started doing it.
I took a quick look and saw this kind of thing as a 'solution' in more than one place: try to change the GPU power draw.
EDIT:
I also saw a suggestion to turn on VSYNC to mitigate it.
What PSU are you using?
― John Quincy Adams
I know all about enabling vsync for coil whine. It didn't help at all.
I'm going to swap out the graphics card in a little bit to make sure it's that and not something else. I almost hope it is the card so I can submit an RMA request to ASUS, because anything else would be a much larger pain in the ass.
My power supply is an EVGA Supernova 750 P2.
There is no reason for a game menu to be rendering at 3,000 fps and my GPU sounding like an old Honda that won't start.
Cant you force vsync through Nvidia/AMD drivers?
Still no dice. Lemme try sticking it in a 3.0 port.
Yeah, but the whole point of getting a beefyass GPU is to watch it flex and see how well it performs in-game. I only have a 60hz monitor so I'm missing a lot of performance info with it enabled.
Plus vsync has a host of issues that don't always make it a solid choice, so using it as a blanket option might not be the best idea.
I had to do that on a old PC last year
Steam / Origin & Wii U: Heatwave111 / FC: 4227-1965-3206 / Battle.net: Heatwave#11356
I have nothing to add to that, other than try a different stick?
I'm pretty sure you can create per game profiles since that's what you have to do to get super sampling to work.
Edit: but yeah, vsync isn't going to let you set your frame rate to above your refresh rate. Although I'm not sure how to gel wanting to see what a beefy gpu can do in older games with not wanting to see 3000fps.
I'd also check to ensure they are being recognised correctly.
I'm an adult.