PrusaSlicer will do it as well; load the first bit, then right-click on it, select 'add part', move that next part into the right place, repeat, then slice everything. The 'move into place' step will probably be pretty annoying for parts that need rotation as well, but it's definitely possible.
(I've only done this when I wanted to chop out sections of an existing file and then re-connect the remaining bits, which was a lot less geometrically interesting than putting chainsaw man's arm in the right place. Also, the STL files are _enormous_, so actually manipulating them might be pretty cpu-intensive; I suspect you could simplify them an awful lot and still wind up with the same end result when printed)
From there, if you have a resin printer, things might be a bit more fiddly -- you could just export it as an STL and then import it into your existing slicer. That said, prusa makes their own resin printer, but I don't know if resin printers are compatible with one another the same way that filament printers can be. Googling for 'prusaslicer elegoo' gets hits, so people have tried this sort of thing in the past, at least.
I should give Blender a shot. I have a bunch of "multi-shell" models, ie models with multiple components you can turn on/off in various combinations to make different versions of the same model.
And also various parts I want to try digital kitbashing with.
New problem: I used Meshmixer to put a file of some hair onto a file of a giff (a normally-bald hippopotamus creature from D&D) and when I went to print it the preview that normally shows a blue and grey overhead of what is to be printed instead erupted into a multicolored rainbow. I tried Googling this but have yet to see anyone say they've had a similar problem.
I've previously used Meshmixer to put a base for ships to stand atop with no problems. For this one it Meshmixer did say something along the lines of "complex object non-manifold", but I had selected the auto fixer option for that. Could this be the source of the problem?
I don't know a thing about 3D printing but non-manifold geometry is when a 3D mesh has geometry that is physically impossible, such as an edge being shared by more or less than 2 polygon faces, the mesh having a hole in it, faces intersecting without an edge, etc., things that I assume would fuck up a printer trying to figure out volumes to fill in. I don't know how to fix that without manually editing the mesh in a 3D modeling program, but I also didn't know there tools to autofix such things so vOv
What would you recommend as a decent 1st 3d printer?
I was looking at something from the Ender3 line, but I have no idea how that stacks up against other printers. I’ve heard Prusa printers are great but those are ~$800 and I’m not sure spending that much right off the bat is a great idea. The big advantage (for me) to a Ender3 is I can get it/parts at Microcenter.
Steam - Synthetic Violence | XBOX Live - Cannonfuse | PSN - CastleBravo | Twitch - SoggybiscuitPA
The Ender 3 line is great as a first printer. (And, currently, my only one, too!)
It takes some set-up once you get it out of the box, but mine's been working well for years. I need to do some maintenance on it, now, but I've otherwise been really happy.
I got a stock, basic 3. If you have a little more money, I'd go for the 3v2 Neo. One of the best upgrades if you don't is to get the silent mainboard; it makes the printer so much better to have around.
Enders are great to learn on because they take a bit of work. Sounds counterintuitive but figuring out the hows and whys will pay off. I almost exclusively use a Kobra Max now and it's little more than 'hit print', but on the occasion something does go wrong I already know what to do from the Ender.
I've had this thought in the back of my head for well over a year, but now a good video I saw the other day finally set things in motion. So I fired up Fusion 360 and started prototyping desk organizers. First test:
Do I need this kind of organization? No. Does it spark joy? Heck yes.
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
I finally stepped into the world of FDM printing after having done resin for about a year and a half now. Not having to deal with harmful liquids and fumes sure is great. Having to deal with a billion settings instead of pretty much just 'exposure time' is less great. At this point I've mostly been using it to make toys for my 3 year old.
Prints have been 100% successful and I know layer lines are always going to exist but what I'm getting seems much more pronounced and inconsistent than the prints I see online. And with a billion settings to tinker with the answer to what the cause might be is all over the place: speed, temp, retraction, all of them, some of them, or none of them.
It's good to see they're maintaining the "if you have an older printer, you can upgrade it to the newer one"; they have 'just upgrade the motherboard/screen', 'upgrade everything except the new high-precision X/Y/Z motors' and 'upgrade everything including the x/y/z motors".
The potential to swap out the motherboard to something beefier that can do the extra calculations for higher-speed printing is definitely tempting; the other improvements would be nice, but I'm used to copying things onto an SD card / using a wrench to change nozzles / etc, and I have the first layer calibration stuff set up for the different metal sheets so I can live with that.
I have the Prusa Mini that has been my main workhorse, but sometimes I want to print something that just doesn't fit on it, and my other two printers (...I can stop any time I want) are semi-out of commission at the moment. I've tinkered the heck out of them, but I'm considering selling those and just have Prusa printers and not tinker with them. I feel I've gotten that out of my system now, printers ship with good enough default options that there's no tinkering required unless you want to.
So, I've been a long-time user of the Creality upgraded glass bed on my Ender 3, and the other day I scratched the hell out of it by messing up a setting.
Anyway, I'd had it for a couple of years, and it was damaged, so I figured I'd replace it and got a new one.
I don't know what they've done differently or what I'm doing differently or if I got a bogus one or something, but the stuff I'm printing (just PLA!) is now basically welding itself to the build plate. I had to put the plate in the freezer to get some of the pieces off, and I've never had to do that before - just let it cool down to 30C or so and the prints would slide off neatly. The most recent print job didn't even come loose then, and in fact left little pieces of plastic behind on the print bed; the purge line pulled off some stuff instead of coming free.
Anyone know of they've changed something on this front, or am I just doing something wrong here?
I dont know if this is helpful but I changed the bed on Kobra Max a while ago and had a similar issue, first few prints on the new plate were ridiculously difficult to remove. After those few though it went back to normal.
I ended up hitting the whole thing with acetone, figuring there might have just been some stuff left over from manufacturing. It very definitely got the pieces of plastic left behind from my last print job off, and is largely back to normal now (maybe a little grabbier than normal, but that just might be because it's new and everything is at least coming off the build plate now).
Are you printing on the textured side? I remember when I first got the glass bed it was really sensitive to z height, if it's too low I guess the plastic gets pressed deep enough into the textured surface that it makes a really strong seal against it. It's worn down a bit now and seems to be a bit less grabby at least.
My wife is so awesome, she got me an Ender 3 for my birthday!
I don't have it set up yet because I'm pretty busy right now doing thesis stuff, but does anyone have any recommended first prints? She got me some PLA filament to go with it and I'm really excited to try it out. Supposedly it can print PETG as well, so that will be nice to make some toys for my daughter.
Steam - Synthetic Violence | XBOX Live - Cannonfuse | PSN - CastleBravo | Twitch - SoggybiscuitPA
Then, you "need" to print a bunch of upgrades for your printer. Things I printed early and still use:
1. A drag chain for the cables between the base and the extruder and the base and the print bed
2. A holder for your scraper (which you shouldn't use very often), hex wrenches, and side cutters
3. Cable clips for all of the other cables around the base, so they aren't loose and floppy
4. Cable clip for the extruder to hold the bundle that goes to the hotend
5. A spinner to sit on top of the extruder and look cool when it's moving
6. A bed handle
7. A cover for the back of the LCD thing (though doing it again I'd go with one that has boxes / drawers)
8. An SD Card extender holder so you can use a Micro SD to standard SD extender (so you aren't constantly poking at something soldered to the main board)
9. Slot covers for the top of the aluminum frame to keep dust, etc., from getting into it
EDIT: I can provide Thingiverse links for most (all?) of the above if you want them (though Thingiverse the website kinda sucks and is broken a lot these days).
Debating if I need that or not. Instead of the controller sitting on the corner of the desk it would now be sitting on the stand on the corner of the desk which would just be more stuff on the desk. But stand! Choices.
This question has likely been asked many times in this thread's history, but I'd like to hear some input from humans I can trust more than anons.
I'm mostly moved into my new apartment. I have an office/hobby room that I have for PC use currently, with plans for a separate hobby table for mini painting/assembly/whatnot.
Is it reasonable to find a good enclosure for my resin printer (Mars 2) so I can exist in the same room with it for extended periods of time, or is it just too much of a bad idea?
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
I'd say it very much depends on how well ventilated the room is, and what kind of resin you're using.
I'd say it very much depends on how well ventilated the room is, and what kind of resin you're using.
It’s just a normal apartment bedroom/office, so ventilation is more a matter of what I’ll have to setup. I could nab a good enclosure from Amazon and that would help. There’s also the consideration of just not running it while I’m there (print when I’m at work, print overnight while I sleep in the other room).
As far as resin goes, I suppose I would just go with whatever people say smells the least offensive, but from what I understand it’s still going to be toxic regardless of how it smells.
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SteevLWhat can I do for you?Registered Userregular
My colleague started a 8+ hour print job submitted by the public at my library yesterday. It seemed to be printing fine. About 2 hours in, our security guard taps me on the shoulder and said "hey, I think something's wrong with the printer" and I have a look. Sure enough, the nozzle is about an inch above the last printed material. It had gotten clogged up probably an hour into the print. And so far, I've had very little luck unclogging nozzles, so I'm probably just going to replace it. At least they're only 9 bucks.
Thanks to some discussion at work, I found out that there is a way to mostly safely print at home, while also using the office space.
There are Elegoo carbon filtered air purifiers that you can have hangout in the printer with the lid on. Combine that with water washable resin and you have a significantly safer (fume wise) situation. I keep the office door open at all times, and I am constantly self-monitoring for any symptoms, and so far things seem good.
Honestly the only problem is that I am making quite a mess so it’s going to be good practice to only break out the printer when I have a good enough reason to, instead of just digging for random things to make physical.
Yeah, the mess aspect is why I still use my FDM printer mostly. I am tempted to use resin when I want a lot of copies of something, but couldn't get that many more more quickly and the mess. So it's for detail work.
Yesterday I made it to a Microcenter and I'm $200 poorer now. Got a MicroSwiss hotend and DD extruder, and some filament and some small consumable parts.
I set the printer up on the kitchen table and printed that while my wife was away. She wasn't happy with the printer on the table, but when she saw what I printed, it really clicked for her. And now that the thing is on the wall, I've been ordered to print a broom/mop holder.
"A toy to build toys" truer words have rarely been spoken.
Steam - Synthetic Violence | XBOX Live - Cannonfuse | PSN - CastleBravo | Twitch - SoggybiscuitPA
I am picking up the original Voxelab Aquila for 75 on Friday. He said it has been barely used. It's out of date, and was cheap even when new, but it's hard to beat that price. Looks like there are issues with the extruder nozzle I think, some nozzle, and it basically always fails so will probably be picking up a metal version of that. Otherwise it looks like something I can fiddle with to print Warhammer 40k terrain and d&d minis and terrain. The Reddit for it is pretty dire but I am hoping that is because they are only consumer in the sense of the price, much like computers use to be. It is an almost exact clone of the Ender 3 V2, right down to being able to use a lot of the same parts. I am excited to see how badly I can fuck it up!
Ok so I picked it up. Everything works and functions according to the way it should. He said it worked great for him, but almost right after he got it he upgraded to a much pricier model. He said he printed about 5 or 10 things on it that worked well. It heated fine, although I don't have a thermal reader to look for hot/cold spots. The X, Y, and Z motors all work great. The PLA is coming in tomorrow, I bought the Amazon basic from Hatchbox that was recommended by a buddy who is deeper into it. The current firmware is out of date from the manufacturer and there are several open source custom firmwares I can choose from as well. I also ordered some replacement extruder nozzles as they wear out pretty quick on this model. So all told I am about 110 into it for a printer, 5 replacement nozzles, and a spool of pla. If I can get some even halfway decent 40k terrain out of it I can make my money back.
Is there one of these that's approached "toaster" level yet? As in "I plug it in, I load it, and it does the thing without my fiddling"? For an analogy, think "espresso"; it's both a hobby and a beverage, and I'm just looking for "beverage" at the moment. (I mean, a decent beverage...) I've seen various kickstarters and pitches and so forth and I believe the marketing spew about as much as... I don't believe the marketing spew at all.
Is there one of these that's approached "toaster" level yet? As in "I plug it in, I load it, and it does the thing without my fiddling"? For an analogy, think "espresso"; it's both a hobby and a beverage, and I'm just looking for "beverage" at the moment. (I mean, a decent beverage...) I've seen various kickstarters and pitches and so forth and I believe the marketing spew about as much as... I don't believe the marketing spew at all.
Generally, the less fiddly they are, the more they tend to cost, has been my experience so far.
Like, Bambu Lab's stuff is supposed to be pretty plug-and-play out-of-the-box, but their newest is $1,200+, and the Ender 3 v2 is $270.
Is there one of these that's approached "toaster" level yet? As in "I plug it in, I load it, and it does the thing without my fiddling"? For an analogy, think "espresso"; it's both a hobby and a beverage, and I'm just looking for "beverage" at the moment. (I mean, a decent beverage...) I've seen various kickstarters and pitches and so forth and I believe the marketing spew about as much as... I don't believe the marketing spew at all.
Maybe it's a career in manufacturing that skews my perspective, but even the first generation of consumer grade 3d printers are pretty simple machines that require some work but not as much as most tools. My lathe is more fussy about set up and precision than any of my printers.
We have an industrial FDM printer for making rapid replacement parts while we fab/order production rated stuff, and it's basically a consumer one with a few more tricks.
I would not let the "complexity" steer anyone away from buying a bench top printer. I would only take the toxicity and space issues in mind, and they are important!
I very much doubt these devices will ever reach "coffee maker" or "toaster" simplicity. They don't just make one thing or slight variations of that thing.
Yeah, I mean, when I say that the Ender 3 is fiddly, it's well within my reasonably-educated and occasionally-bright wheelhouse. I have the occasional issue, but a I went through a YouTube tutorial to set up my Ender 3 (Classic!) and have been largely error-free for several years of printing now.
I started off with a monoprice select mini which is pretty cheap and basically worked out of the box.
It puts out filament just fine and (other than leveling) didn't need any tweaks. Obvious downside 1 is that it's smaller than average, which will restrict what you can print, and b: it doesn't have a flexible bed so getting prints off would occasionally be very frustrating.
Is there one of these that's approached "toaster" level yet? As in "I plug it in, I load it, and it does the thing without my fiddling"? For an analogy, think "espresso"; it's both a hobby and a beverage, and I'm just looking for "beverage" at the moment. (I mean, a decent beverage...) I've seen various kickstarters and pitches and so forth and I believe the marketing spew about as much as... I don't believe the marketing spew at all.
Maybe it's a career in manufacturing that skews my perspective, but even the first generation of consumer grade 3d printers are pretty simple machines that require some work but not as much as most tools. My lathe is more fussy about set up and precision than any of my printers.
We have an industrial FDM printer for making rapid replacement parts while we fab/order production rated stuff, and it's basically a consumer one with a few more tricks.
I would not let the "complexity" steer anyone away from buying a bench top printer. I would only take the toxicity and space issues in mind, and they are important!
I very much doubt these devices will ever reach "coffee maker" or "toaster" simplicity. They don't just make one thing or slight variations of that thing.
Yeah, it's less "complexity" than it is "required fiddling". For instance, if I've an espresso maker, I've any number of upgrades and modifications I can make in order to make it perform better, differently, or simply exactly the way I want. Obv these guys are the same, but I wouldn't want an espresso maker that required said fiddling to be usable. So "works out of the box barring some setup" (like the monoprice, or I guess the Enders?) is kind of where I'm thinking. If I decided "man, I want it to do..." and that needs mods or upgrading, cool beans, but my expectation/preference would be "unbox, set up, plug in all the bits as required, and it is able to print to a good standard of quality". (I've seen the Bambu stuff, and it was definitely on the "... Yeah I dunno about all that..." side of marketese.)
So it's kind of sounding like "yes, some brands, but not like, entirely", which is a far cry from "okay so once you assemble it, you need to print these 13 parts so it becomes usable. Also there is soldering." which was last time I really looked. (Obv there's some maintenance; gotta clean your coffee maker and all.)
Oh you should be fine then. Most are fine right out of the box in that regard, I think you'd have to go out of your way to find one that wasn't.
It doesn't help that some enthusiasts bill their preferences as 'must haves' and that sounds like what you're running up against a little. No, my Ender is not 'unusable' without a rear housing for the display panel, thanks all the same.
Posts
(I've only done this when I wanted to chop out sections of an existing file and then re-connect the remaining bits, which was a lot less geometrically interesting than putting chainsaw man's arm in the right place. Also, the STL files are _enormous_, so actually manipulating them might be pretty cpu-intensive; I suspect you could simplify them an awful lot and still wind up with the same end result when printed)
From there, if you have a resin printer, things might be a bit more fiddly -- you could just export it as an STL and then import it into your existing slicer. That said, prusa makes their own resin printer, but I don't know if resin printers are compatible with one another the same way that filament printers can be. Googling for 'prusaslicer elegoo' gets hits, so people have tried this sort of thing in the past, at least.
And also various parts I want to try digital kitbashing with.
I've previously used Meshmixer to put a base for ships to stand atop with no problems. For this one it Meshmixer did say something along the lines of "complex object non-manifold", but I had selected the auto fixer option for that. Could this be the source of the problem?
I was looking at something from the Ender3 line, but I have no idea how that stacks up against other printers. I’ve heard Prusa printers are great but those are ~$800 and I’m not sure spending that much right off the bat is a great idea. The big advantage (for me) to a Ender3 is I can get it/parts at Microcenter.
It takes some set-up once you get it out of the box, but mine's been working well for years. I need to do some maintenance on it, now, but I've otherwise been really happy.
I got a stock, basic 3. If you have a little more money, I'd go for the 3v2 Neo. One of the best upgrades if you don't is to get the silent mainboard; it makes the printer so much better to have around.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Do I need this kind of organization? No. Does it spark joy? Heck yes.
Said video:
Prints have been 100% successful and I know layer lines are always going to exist but what I'm getting seems much more pronounced and inconsistent than the prints I see online. And with a billion settings to tinker with the answer to what the cause might be is all over the place: speed, temp, retraction, all of them, some of them, or none of them.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
The potential to swap out the motherboard to something beefier that can do the extra calculations for higher-speed printing is definitely tempting; the other improvements would be nice, but I'm used to copying things onto an SD card / using a wrench to change nozzles / etc, and I have the first layer calibration stuff set up for the different metal sheets so I can live with that.
Anyway, I'd had it for a couple of years, and it was damaged, so I figured I'd replace it and got a new one.
I don't know what they've done differently or what I'm doing differently or if I got a bogus one or something, but the stuff I'm printing (just PLA!) is now basically welding itself to the build plate. I had to put the plate in the freezer to get some of the pieces off, and I've never had to do that before - just let it cool down to 30C or so and the prints would slide off neatly. The most recent print job didn't even come loose then, and in fact left little pieces of plastic behind on the print bed; the purge line pulled off some stuff instead of coming free.
Anyone know of they've changed something on this front, or am I just doing something wrong here?
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
I don't have it set up yet because I'm pretty busy right now doing thesis stuff, but does anyone have any recommended first prints? She got me some PLA filament to go with it and I'm really excited to try it out. Supposedly it can print PETG as well, so that will be nice to make some toys for my daughter.
Then, you "need" to print a bunch of upgrades for your printer.
1. A drag chain for the cables between the base and the extruder and the base and the print bed
2. A holder for your scraper (which you shouldn't use very often), hex wrenches, and side cutters
3. Cable clips for all of the other cables around the base, so they aren't loose and floppy
4. Cable clip for the extruder to hold the bundle that goes to the hotend
5. A spinner to sit on top of the extruder and look cool when it's moving
6. A bed handle
7. A cover for the back of the LCD thing (though doing it again I'd go with one that has boxes / drawers)
8. An SD Card extender holder so you can use a Micro SD to standard SD extender (so you aren't constantly poking at something soldered to the main board)
9. Slot covers for the top of the aluminum frame to keep dust, etc., from getting into it
Oh, and for setup, I found this invaluable:
EDIT: I can provide Thingiverse links for most (all?) of the above if you want them (though Thingiverse the website kinda sucks and is broken a lot these days).
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
edit: oh hey check out this Xbox controller stand! *fires ze slicer*
oh no
I'm mostly moved into my new apartment. I have an office/hobby room that I have for PC use currently, with plans for a separate hobby table for mini painting/assembly/whatnot.
Is it reasonable to find a good enclosure for my resin printer (Mars 2) so I can exist in the same room with it for extended periods of time, or is it just too much of a bad idea?
It’s just a normal apartment bedroom/office, so ventilation is more a matter of what I’ll have to setup. I could nab a good enclosure from Amazon and that would help. There’s also the consideration of just not running it while I’m there (print when I’m at work, print overnight while I sleep in the other room).
As far as resin goes, I suppose I would just go with whatever people say smells the least offensive, but from what I understand it’s still going to be toxic regardless of how it smells.
My Backloggery
Thanks to some discussion at work, I found out that there is a way to mostly safely print at home, while also using the office space.
There are Elegoo carbon filtered air purifiers that you can have hangout in the printer with the lid on. Combine that with water washable resin and you have a significantly safer (fume wise) situation. I keep the office door open at all times, and I am constantly self-monitoring for any symptoms, and so far things seem good.
Honestly the only problem is that I am making quite a mess so it’s going to be good practice to only break out the printer when I have a good enough reason to, instead of just digging for random things to make physical.
And I made a functional print!
Printed https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:896696 in black PLA on an Ender 3.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Yesterday I made it to a Microcenter and I'm $200 poorer now. Got a MicroSwiss hotend and DD extruder, and some filament and some small consumable parts.
I set the printer up on the kitchen table and printed that while my wife was away. She wasn't happy with the printer on the table, but when she saw what I printed, it really clicked for her. And now that the thing is on the wall, I've been ordered to print a broom/mop holder.
"A toy to build toys" truer words have rarely been spoken.
PSN:Furlion
PSN:Furlion
Generally, the less fiddly they are, the more they tend to cost, has been my experience so far.
Like, Bambu Lab's stuff is supposed to be pretty plug-and-play out-of-the-box, but their newest is $1,200+, and the Ender 3 v2 is $270.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Maybe it's a career in manufacturing that skews my perspective, but even the first generation of consumer grade 3d printers are pretty simple machines that require some work but not as much as most tools. My lathe is more fussy about set up and precision than any of my printers.
We have an industrial FDM printer for making rapid replacement parts while we fab/order production rated stuff, and it's basically a consumer one with a few more tricks.
I would not let the "complexity" steer anyone away from buying a bench top printer. I would only take the toxicity and space issues in mind, and they are important!
I very much doubt these devices will ever reach "coffee maker" or "toaster" simplicity. They don't just make one thing or slight variations of that thing.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
It puts out filament just fine and (other than leveling) didn't need any tweaks. Obvious downside 1 is that it's smaller than average, which will restrict what you can print, and b: it doesn't have a flexible bed so getting prints off would occasionally be very frustrating.
Yeah, it's less "complexity" than it is "required fiddling". For instance, if I've an espresso maker, I've any number of upgrades and modifications I can make in order to make it perform better, differently, or simply exactly the way I want. Obv these guys are the same, but I wouldn't want an espresso maker that required said fiddling to be usable. So "works out of the box barring some setup" (like the monoprice, or I guess the Enders?) is kind of where I'm thinking. If I decided "man, I want it to do..." and that needs mods or upgrading, cool beans, but my expectation/preference would be "unbox, set up, plug in all the bits as required, and it is able to print to a good standard of quality". (I've seen the Bambu stuff, and it was definitely on the "... Yeah I dunno about all that..." side of marketese.)
So it's kind of sounding like "yes, some brands, but not like, entirely", which is a far cry from "okay so once you assemble it, you need to print these 13 parts so it becomes usable. Also there is soldering." which was last time I really looked. (Obv there's some maintenance; gotta clean your coffee maker and all.)
It doesn't help that some enthusiasts bill their preferences as 'must haves' and that sounds like what you're running up against a little. No, my Ender is not 'unusable' without a rear housing for the display panel, thanks all the same.