Yeah, you're just stressing over the cleaning. Once they're primed and base-coated, no one is going to know they weren't scrubbed down to bare plastic.
This is why unless it's something really exceptional or an amazing deal, I just don't find it worth it to get models to strip. Having a fresh kit to work with and not spending the extra time is more than worth it for me.
Yea, that is what I think I am gonna start doing. Just buying a new set. It especially would not be that bad since it is kill team sized.
I will go ahead and prime them in the gloss black though so they are ready for the color shift paint. I just get so frustrated with painting because I want them to look good and I worry that I'm gonna lose detail. I also tried to use a small bit of acetone on a couple of models to see if I could get a little extra paint stripped off. It did not really work how I wanted and besides the recon drone they all look fine. The recon drone just looks a little grimy I guess would be the way to describe it. It still looks good but on the lower part of the drone there is are small bumps that I can't seem to scrap off easily so I think it might be really small parts of slightly melted plastic.
But yea, I am tired of cleaning stuff off and feeling even more stressed.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
edited October 2018
So my plan for my Tau is a gloss black varnish and then each unit type is gonna have a different color shift paint with the cloth in between the armor getting painted abaddon black with highlights. (Still feeling stressed and annoyed about the Tau. I just need to start painting them and relax)
My Necrons are gonna be primed with vallejo black surface primer, then leadbelcher base, the gun black, and the shoulders I want to use the tamiya clear orange for a metallic look but I don't know if I should base first with liberator gold or stormhost silver. I am kind of leaning towards liberator gold.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
+1
Options
webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Just received my order from Reaper, and they included a halloween grab bag. Holy shit! I got two extra minis and three master series paints, fresh blood, spectral white and breast cancer awareness pink, plus some candy. It's probably $15 worth of extra stuff on top of my $40 order.
Just received my order from Reaper, and they included a halloween grab bag. Holy shit! I got two extra minis and three master series paints, fresh blood, spectral white and breast cancer awareness pink, plus some candy. It's probably $15 worth of extra stuff on top of my $40 order.
Yeah, Reaper is great. I've never gotten that much in a single order, but there's basically always something~
webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Just finished up Gregory, My Hexblade Paladin of the Common Man. I'm not super happy with this one. I didn't build a lot of options for different colors for this mini on hero forge, so I feel he's a bit dark. I am happy with the blue glow on the hexblade edge though.
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
After looking at that Tau Fire Warrior and drone this morning I feel a little better about just priming them all. Definitely have some detail loss but it isn't huge and it will look better once it is done.
The one thing I'm trying to figure out is the finish. I'm thinking gloss since I'm doing color shift paints but the cloth between the armor I want a sort of matte black with highlights so I don't know how ill keep that.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
After looking at that Tau Fire Warrior and drone this morning I feel a little better about just priming them all. Definitely have some detail loss but it isn't huge and it will look better once it is done.
The one thing I'm trying to figure out is the finish. I'm thinking gloss since I'm doing color shift paints but the cloth between the armor I want a sort of matte black with highlights so I don't know how ill keep that.
selective varnishing, only varnish the armor plates.
alternately varnish the whole thing and once its dry pick out the cloth using something similar to GW's "Lahmian Medium" to take the shine off those parts.
A little detail loss isn’t that big a deal, honestly. Especially on tau, who aren’t exactly dripping with bangles and skulls. Mostly smooth lines and a little cloth.
I found some black sand at a dollar store nearby that had a real nice lustre (for decorative vases or some such thing). I figured it'd look great as a volcanic glass kind of basing material.
Super-gluing it to the base destroyed all the shine and it ended up looking like gravel.
Super bummed.
Might just pull the trigger on some Vallejo black lava basing stuff
After looking at that Tau Fire Warrior and drone this morning I feel a little better about just priming them all. Definitely have some detail loss but it isn't huge and it will look better once it is done.
The one thing I'm trying to figure out is the finish. I'm thinking gloss since I'm doing color shift paints but the cloth between the armor I want a sort of matte black with highlights so I don't know how ill keep that.
Dark grey, not seen a grey that couldn't make things seem matt. Plus a lot easier to shade and highlight
That Tau has been primed too heavily, just for your awareness. I may have missed prior discussion about what led to this.
How can you tell?
I can't.
I don't see anything about that model that's going to impact how it's going to look on the table top.
I will admit I am no expert. But, I think it's a bit on the heavy side. Fortunately this stuff self levels lovely so you'll find it cures and looks just fine. I was going to respond to this at lunch time, but as I was planning on priming a couple of bits tonight, I thought I'd take a quick snap.
This is black mixed with grey. I literally put the airbrush in it's cradle and snapped this shot. As you can see it isn't glossy/wet. If I find it is going on glossy/too wet, its usually when I hold the brush too close or spray too hard.
J on
0
Options
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
The prime I'm using is gloss black surface primer from vallejo.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
That Tau has been primed too heavily, just for your awareness. I may have missed prior discussion about what led to this.
How can you tell?
I can't.
I don't see anything about that model that's going to impact how it's going to look on the table top.
I will admit I am no expert. But, I think it's a bit on the heavy side. Fortunately this stuff self levels lovely so you'll find it cures and looks just fine. I was going to respond to this at lunch time, but as I was planning on priming a couple of bits tonight, I thought I'd take a quick snap.
This is black mixed with grey. I literally put the airbrush in it's cradle and snapped this shot. As you can see it isn't glossy/wet. If I find it is going on glossy/too wet, its usually when I hold the brush too close or spray too hard.
The prime I'm using is gloss black surface primer from vallejo.
Oh. Word of advice: gloss black primer is only useful in one case: if you're aiming for a gloss black final effect.
Gloss primer makes it very hard to get good coverage with the subsequent layers (because the paint refuses to evenly stick to gloss surfaces).
The only two reasons I would ever use a gloss primer are:
1) I want the primer to be the main layer with only edge highlighting on top + details.
2) I want to apply a wash directly on top of it (in which case you obviously use a brighter primer).
The prime I'm using is gloss black surface primer from vallejo.
Oh. Word of advice: gloss black primer is only useful in one case: if you're aiming for a gloss black final effect.
Gloss primer makes it very hard to get good coverage with the subsequent layers (because the paint refuses to evenly stick to gloss surfaces).
The only two reasons I would ever use a gloss primer are:
1) I want the primer to be the main layer with only edge highlighting on top + details.
2) I want to apply a wash directly on top of it (in which case you obviously use a brighter primer).
I'm using the color shift paints from green stuff world on these models.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I use gloss black primer for stuff that I’m gonna airbrush chrome over. It’s a very small subset of miniatures, and it occurs much less frequently with my tyranid army, but it does occur!
I think it was you that was building the shipping container with the monster inside and wanted it to pump fog out.
I was talking to a guy today who does model railroad stuff and he mentioned something called smoke oil. It goes in a little element inside model steam engines and puffs a pretty solid amount of smoke.
I don't know if you can get the coil separately from buying a whole steam engine, but it's an idea to pursue. It's a small enough component it fits in a model train... it should be able to find a home in a shipping container terrain piece and provide a good amount of smoke without any serious fire hazards.
Has anyone had any experience printing thier own decals?
Yes. Come at me.
I’m doing a Zeon themed Tau Army, I’m replacing the tau emblem on fire warrior shoulder pads with the Zeon emblem. It’s fairly easy to get Gundam decals but it’s 3-5 emblems per sheet and at £4-5 a sheet doing 60+ firewarriors seems expensive.
So I ordered some A4 decal sheets for inkjet printers and some varnish. (Because at £5 for 5 sheets it seems much cheaper). Is there anything I need to look out for? I bought clear sheets, but I’m printing the same icon over and over in red. Will they work with microsol like regular decals? I’m putting them onto flat surfaces so im not expecting any major issues applying them.
Has anyone had any experience printing thier own decals?
Yes. Come at me.
I’m doing a Zeon themed Tau Army, I’m replacing the tau emblem on fire warrior shoulder pads with the Zeon emblem. It’s fairly easy to get Gundam decals but it’s 3-5 emblems per sheet and at £4-5 a sheet doing 60+ firewarriors seems expensive.
So I ordered some A4 decal sheets for inkjet printers and some varnish. (Because at £5 for 5 sheets it seems much cheaper). Is there anything I need to look out for? I bought clear sheets, but I’m printing the same icon over and over in red. Will they work with microsol like regular decals? I’m putting them onto flat surfaces so im not expecting any major issues applying them.
Oh shit I want to steal this idea so bad.
0
Options
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Has anyone had any experience printing thier own decals?
Yes. Come at me.
I’m doing a Zeon themed Tau Army, I’m replacing the tau emblem on fire warrior shoulder pads with the Zeon emblem. It’s fairly easy to get Gundam decals but it’s 3-5 emblems per sheet and at £4-5 a sheet doing 60+ firewarriors seems expensive.
So I ordered some A4 decal sheets for inkjet printers and some varnish. (Because at £5 for 5 sheets it seems much cheaper). Is there anything I need to look out for? I bought clear sheets, but I’m printing the same icon over and over in red. Will they work with microsol like regular decals? I’m putting them onto flat surfaces so im not expecting any major issues applying them.
What color are you putting them over? Clear sheets with ink on them are still going to be clear so if it's going over, like, black or something then it's not going to work.
Other than that you seem to be on the right track: gloss varnish spray over inkjet decals is a must and microsol/microset work perfectly. In fact you'll really want the microsol as DIY decals tend to look thicker due to how they need to be cut (purchased decals tend to just be shaped and don't require cutting) leaving you with a hard edge unless you have microsol.
Somewhere I have a bunch of Blood Raven space marines I made decals for (black/red over cream) and they turned out great. But I'm too lazy to find them or take pictures so you'll just have to take my word for it!
20 termagants cranked out in time for a tournament. Probably should have spaced it out into 2 batches but it’s done now and the psychological damage will hopefully heal.
Why is it that whenever I'm at work I want to paint, and when I'm at home I don't want to. It's very inconvenient.
Tri-Optimum reminds you that there are only one-hundred-sixty-three shopping days until Christmas. Just 1 extra work cycle twice a week will give you the spending money you need to make this holiday a very special one.
Has anyone had any experience printing thier own decals?
Yes. Come at me.
I’m doing a Zeon themed Tau Army, I’m replacing the tau emblem on fire warrior shoulder pads with the Zeon emblem. It’s fairly easy to get Gundam decals but it’s 3-5 emblems per sheet and at £4-5 a sheet doing 60+ firewarriors seems expensive.
So I ordered some A4 decal sheets for inkjet printers and some varnish. (Because at £5 for 5 sheets it seems much cheaper). Is there anything I need to look out for? I bought clear sheets, but I’m printing the same icon over and over in red. Will they work with microsol like regular decals? I’m putting them onto flat surfaces so im not expecting any major issues applying them.
What color are you putting them over? Clear sheets with ink on them are still going to be clear so if it's going over, like, black or something then it's not going to work.
Other than that you seem to be on the right track: gloss varnish spray over inkjet decals is a must and microsol/microset work perfectly. In fact you'll really want the microsol as DIY decals tend to look thicker due to how they need to be cut (purchased decals tend to just be shaped and don't require cutting) leaving you with a hard edge unless you have microsol.
Somewhere I have a bunch of Blood Raven space marines I made decals for (black/red over cream) and they turned out great. But I'm too lazy to find them or take pictures so you'll just have to take my word for it!
I was looking at making my own Mantis warrior ones
Because I thought about getting a box or such on ebay of some Primaris Reivers and using them as a kill team
Has anyone had any experience printing thier own decals?
Yes. Come at me.
I’m doing a Zeon themed Tau Army, I’m replacing the tau emblem on fire warrior shoulder pads with the Zeon emblem. It’s fairly easy to get Gundam decals but it’s 3-5 emblems per sheet and at £4-5 a sheet doing 60+ firewarriors seems expensive.
So I ordered some A4 decal sheets for inkjet printers and some varnish. (Because at £5 for 5 sheets it seems much cheaper). Is there anything I need to look out for? I bought clear sheets, but I’m printing the same icon over and over in red. Will they work with microsol like regular decals? I’m putting them onto flat surfaces so im not expecting any major issues applying them.
What color are you putting them over? Clear sheets with ink on them are still going to be clear so if it's going over, like, black or something then it's not going to work.
Other than that you seem to be on the right track: gloss varnish spray over inkjet decals is a must and microsol/microset work perfectly. In fact you'll really want the microsol as DIY decals tend to look thicker due to how they need to be cut (purchased decals tend to just be shaped and don't require cutting) leaving you with a hard edge unless you have microsol.
Somewhere I have a bunch of Blood Raven space marines I made decals for (black/red over cream) and they turned out great. But I'm too lazy to find them or take pictures so you'll just have to take my word for it!
They’re going over a fairly light olive green. The particular brand I bought has examples on a much darker spitfire model so it should be fine.
I’ve got enough supplies to have a few test runs. I only need half a sheet to do the entire army anyway.
Posts
No that is a line you should not look into any further
Yea, that is what I think I am gonna start doing. Just buying a new set. It especially would not be that bad since it is kill team sized.
I will go ahead and prime them in the gloss black though so they are ready for the color shift paint. I just get so frustrated with painting because I want them to look good and I worry that I'm gonna lose detail. I also tried to use a small bit of acetone on a couple of models to see if I could get a little extra paint stripped off. It did not really work how I wanted and besides the recon drone they all look fine. The recon drone just looks a little grimy I guess would be the way to describe it. It still looks good but on the lower part of the drone there is are small bumps that I can't seem to scrap off easily so I think it might be really small parts of slightly melted plastic.
But yea, I am tired of cleaning stuff off and feeling even more stressed.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
My Necrons are gonna be primed with vallejo black surface primer, then leadbelcher base, the gun black, and the shoulders I want to use the tamiya clear orange for a metallic look but I don't know if I should base first with liberator gold or stormhost silver. I am kind of leaning towards liberator gold.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
The one thing I'm trying to figure out is the finish. I'm thinking gloss since I'm doing color shift paints but the cloth between the armor I want a sort of matte black with highlights so I don't know how ill keep that.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
selective varnishing, only varnish the armor plates.
alternately varnish the whole thing and once its dry pick out the cloth using something similar to GW's "Lahmian Medium" to take the shine off those parts.
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
Super-gluing it to the base destroyed all the shine and it ended up looking like gravel.
Super bummed.
Might just pull the trigger on some Vallejo black lava basing stuff
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Dark grey, not seen a grey that couldn't make things seem matt. Plus a lot easier to shade and highlight
How can you tell?
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I can't.
I don't see anything about that model that's going to impact how it's going to look on the table top.
I will admit I am no expert. But, I think it's a bit on the heavy side. Fortunately this stuff self levels lovely so you'll find it cures and looks just fine. I was going to respond to this at lunch time, but as I was planning on priming a couple of bits tonight, I thought I'd take a quick snap.
This is black mixed with grey. I literally put the airbrush in it's cradle and snapped this shot. As you can see it isn't glossy/wet. If I find it is going on glossy/too wet, its usually when I hold the brush too close or spray too hard.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
You need some latex gloves my friend
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Oh. Word of advice: gloss black primer is only useful in one case: if you're aiming for a gloss black final effect.
Gloss primer makes it very hard to get good coverage with the subsequent layers (because the paint refuses to evenly stick to gloss surfaces).
The only two reasons I would ever use a gloss primer are:
1) I want the primer to be the main layer with only edge highlighting on top + details.
2) I want to apply a wash directly on top of it (in which case you obviously use a brighter primer).
Then I shall shut my stupid face!
also yes, I need gloves.
I'm using the color shift paints from green stuff world on these models.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I think it was you that was building the shipping container with the monster inside and wanted it to pump fog out.
I was talking to a guy today who does model railroad stuff and he mentioned something called smoke oil. It goes in a little element inside model steam engines and puffs a pretty solid amount of smoke.
I don't know if you can get the coil separately from buying a whole steam engine, but it's an idea to pursue. It's a small enough component it fits in a model train... it should be able to find a home in a shipping container terrain piece and provide a good amount of smoke without any serious fire hazards.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Yes. Come at me.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Ok how good are those laser printer decals? I know white is an issue for them but how good are they?
I’m doing a Zeon themed Tau Army, I’m replacing the tau emblem on fire warrior shoulder pads with the Zeon emblem. It’s fairly easy to get Gundam decals but it’s 3-5 emblems per sheet and at £4-5 a sheet doing 60+ firewarriors seems expensive.
So I ordered some A4 decal sheets for inkjet printers and some varnish. (Because at £5 for 5 sheets it seems much cheaper). Is there anything I need to look out for? I bought clear sheets, but I’m printing the same icon over and over in red. Will they work with microsol like regular decals? I’m putting them onto flat surfaces so im not expecting any major issues applying them.
Oh shit I want to steal this idea so bad.
What color are you putting them over? Clear sheets with ink on them are still going to be clear so if it's going over, like, black or something then it's not going to work.
Other than that you seem to be on the right track: gloss varnish spray over inkjet decals is a must and microsol/microset work perfectly. In fact you'll really want the microsol as DIY decals tend to look thicker due to how they need to be cut (purchased decals tend to just be shaped and don't require cutting) leaving you with a hard edge unless you have microsol.
Somewhere I have a bunch of Blood Raven space marines I made decals for (black/red over cream) and they turned out great. But I'm too lazy to find them or take pictures so you'll just have to take my word for it!
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I might wait till my day off on Friday but I really want to start painting already as well.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
I was looking at making my own Mantis warrior ones
Because I thought about getting a box or such on ebay of some Primaris Reivers and using them as a kill team
They’re going over a fairly light olive green. The particular brand I bought has examples on a much darker spitfire model so it should be fine.
I’ve got enough supplies to have a few test runs. I only need half a sheet to do the entire army anyway.