What wash would look good? Was thinking of using gloss reikland fleshshade.
I can definitely see the color shift! It's muted, but noticeable. Looks really good, but I'm wondering what you could do to make it pop more. More coats, or a drybrush (does that even work?)?
I'd be afraid a wash might dull the colors even more. Snakes aren't exactly known for subtle colors.
Yea, some more coats might be good. I only did 3.
Gloss washes usually do well with not messing up vibrancy though I am a little worried about doing it in general. The c'tan I painted with colorshift looked fine with the gloss wash I think.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Yeah the really early stuff is dire. I've posted the original Luke and Leia in the thread and they are so bad. The Rebel troops aren't bad sculpts, just potato detail.
Interesting that the AT-ST came half assembled. I just got a T-47 and same deal. The main chassis was stuck together so all you have to do is stick on the guns and flaps.
Yeah the really early stuff is dire. I've posted the original Luke and Leia in the thread and they are so bad. The Rebel troops aren't bad sculpts, just potato detail.
Interesting that the AT-ST came half assembled. I just got a T-47 and same deal. The main chassis was stuck together so all you have to do is stick on the guns and flaps.
Yeah ATST had the whole head as a solid assembly. You put the legs and weapons together, that's it. Its not a big deal I suppose, all the joints are mobile and its not like Im going to kitbash it. Just odd coming from Warhammer.
Legions approach to models has been a weird evolution. From PVC soft plastics that are just plug fit, some half assembled HIPS kits to now proper sprue HIPS kits. the Clone Wars era stuff has been great, even the PVC stuff and theres not much of that. Like, Phase 1 Clones and their upgrade, Rex, Dooku? Everything else is very nice.
I put models on Instagram now: asher_paints
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Did two more layers of the red/green colorshift paint on the snake and then I sealed it with gloss varnish. I'm gonna cover the areas where the underbelly shows with corvus black and highlight with mechanicus standard grey. Not sure what I want to do with the eyes, mouth, or base yet.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Legions approach to models has been a weird evolution. From PVC soft plastics that are just plug fit, some half assembled HIPS kits to now proper sprue HIPS kits. the Clone Wars era stuff has been great, even the PVC stuff and theres not much of that. Like, Phase 1 Clones and their upgrade, Rex, Dooku? Everything else is very nice.
I wonder if there was a "Hey is this product actually going to take off?" mentality back in the beginning, and once the numbers panned out the upped the quality.
Legions approach to models has been a weird evolution. From PVC soft plastics that are just plug fit, some half assembled HIPS kits to now proper sprue HIPS kits. the Clone Wars era stuff has been great, even the PVC stuff and theres not much of that. Like, Phase 1 Clones and their upgrade, Rex, Dooku? Everything else is very nice.
I wonder if there was a "Hey is this product actually going to take off?" mentality back in the beginning, and once the numbers panned out the upped the quality.
Almost definitely. Even amongst the PVC stuff, there's a definite jump in quality. Honestly, it's mostly fine. Aside from like Ron Pearlman as Princess Leia, it does the job. Because they're based essentially on real people carrying real things, the models have way less extraneous detail to them than a space marine might. They're much closer to something like bolt action miniatures. The iffy early models are saved by being able to do a good paint job very easily.
The better quality models are drastically better though. Just built myself a squad of shoretroopers and death troopers and the details are all incredibly crisp on them.
I will say the air speeder beats the AT-ST for weird pre-builtness because aside from the tips of the guns and some engine flaps its a single part. Edit: Ah I missed this was already mentioned.
Double Edit: I will say, because of when the movies came out, if you want to paint some moustaches, boy is Rebels the army for you.
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Finished the snake.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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-Loki-Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining.Registered Userregular
Masters brush cleaner can do magic things. I had a brush I used for basecoating and brush priming that was seemingly at the end of its life. Completely splayed, bristles stuck together, dead.
15 minutes with brush cleaner, and it almost looks new. Probably never able to do detail work, but for basecoating, priming and metallics? Absolutely fine.
Tri-Optimum reminds you that there are only one-hundred-sixty-three shopping days until Christmas. Just 1 extra work cycle twice a week will give you the spending money you need to make this holiday a very special one.
I pulled out some mechs to paint this weekend, just trying to figure out which ones to do. They are super tacky and the primer is coming off (slightly) when I pick them up. I primed them in November (back at page 81) and they've sat in the box since then. I've painted others that I primed at the same time and they are not tacky. Same room, so same temperature, humidity, etc. @Nips - both the Beginner Box and GoAC Box are tacky, all the wave 1 stuff is fine.
I've had them in front of a fan for a couple hours and haven't improved, the plastic doesn't seem more flexible than usual, so I'm guessing it is just the primer.
What can I do to de-tackify these? Internet search doesn't seem to give good or consistent advice... so what do?
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
I pulled out some mechs to paint this weekend, just trying to figure out which ones to do. They are super tacky and the primer is coming off (slightly) when I pick them up. I primed them in November (back at page 81) and they've sat in the box since then. I've painted others that I primed at the same time and they are not tacky. Same room, so same temperature, humidity, etc. @Nips - both the Beginner Box and GoAC Box are tacky, all the wave 1 stuff is fine.
I've had them in front of a fan for a couple hours and haven't improved, the plastic doesn't seem more flexible than usual, so I'm guessing it is just the primer.
What can I do to de-tackify these? Internet search doesn't seem to give good or consistent advice... so what do?
If it were me, my first reaction would be to strip them with Simple Green then give them a thorough soapy scrub, rinse, and air dry. Start back at zero, and see if the results are the same.
You could just try to forge forward, and see if the first basecoat covers over the primer intact.
I know the early GoaC boxes had figures cast in a softer formula of plastic, but I'm pretty sure it was reformulated before the boxes went wide to retail. It's possible some of the early formula slipped through, but I'd not heard any particular problems with priming. That said, I have had other miniatures that were cast in a soft plastic behave badly with some spray primers and paints, leaving exactly the kind of tacky surface you're describing. Most of those got used up in terrain projects I eventually varnished (heavily) over, but the handful I had left over in my box...I'm not sure they've ever stopped feeling tacky. I'd have to check, but then we're talking on timescales of years between spraying and final work, and I'm pretty sure that's not helpful!
I pulled out some mechs to paint this weekend, just trying to figure out which ones to do. They are super tacky and the primer is coming off (slightly) when I pick them up. I primed them in November (back at page 81) and they've sat in the box since then. I've painted others that I primed at the same time and they are not tacky. Same room, so same temperature, humidity, etc. @Nips - both the Beginner Box and GoAC Box are tacky, all the wave 1 stuff is fine.
I've had them in front of a fan for a couple hours and haven't improved, the plastic doesn't seem more flexible than usual, so I'm guessing it is just the primer.
What can I do to de-tackify these? Internet search doesn't seem to give good or consistent advice... so what do?
If it were me, my first reaction would be to strip them with Simple Green then give them a thorough soapy scrub, rinse, and air dry. Start back at zero, and see if the results are the same.
You could just try to forge forward, and see if the first basecoat covers over the primer intact.
I know the early GoaC boxes had figures cast in a softer formula of plastic, but I'm pretty sure it was reformulated before the boxes went wide to retail. It's possible some of the early formula slipped through, but I'd not heard any particular problems with priming. That said, I have had other miniatures that were cast in a soft plastic behave badly with some spray primers and paints, leaving exactly the kind of tacky surface you're describing. Most of those got used up in terrain projects I eventually varnished (heavily) over, but the handful I had left over in my box...I'm not sure they've ever stopped feeling tacky. I'd have to check, but then we're talking on timescales of years between spraying and final work, and I'm pretty sure that's not helpful!
I do have an early GoaC and Beginner Box, got them at GenCon when they were released and they are way softer than the wave 1. I tried isopropyl and toothbrush on one and took it from tacky enough to lift off the table to just slightly grippy. I'll see if I can get away with painting over that one, if not Simple Green, if that doesn't work... More Mechs!
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
I pulled out some mechs to paint this weekend, just trying to figure out which ones to do. They are super tacky and the primer is coming off (slightly) when I pick them up. I primed them in November (back at page 81) and they've sat in the box since then. I've painted others that I primed at the same time and they are not tacky. Same room, so same temperature, humidity, etc. @Nips - both the Beginner Box and GoAC Box are tacky, all the wave 1 stuff is fine.
I've had them in front of a fan for a couple hours and haven't improved, the plastic doesn't seem more flexible than usual, so I'm guessing it is just the primer.
What can I do to de-tackify these? Internet search doesn't seem to give good or consistent advice... so what do?
If it were me, my first reaction would be to strip them with Simple Green then give them a thorough soapy scrub, rinse, and air dry. Start back at zero, and see if the results are the same.
You could just try to forge forward, and see if the first basecoat covers over the primer intact.
I know the early GoaC boxes had figures cast in a softer formula of plastic, but I'm pretty sure it was reformulated before the boxes went wide to retail. It's possible some of the early formula slipped through, but I'd not heard any particular problems with priming. That said, I have had other miniatures that were cast in a soft plastic behave badly with some spray primers and paints, leaving exactly the kind of tacky surface you're describing. Most of those got used up in terrain projects I eventually varnished (heavily) over, but the handful I had left over in my box...I'm not sure they've ever stopped feeling tacky. I'd have to check, but then we're talking on timescales of years between spraying and final work, and I'm pretty sure that's not helpful!
I do have an early GoaC and Beginner Box, got them at GenCon when they were released and they are way softer than the wave 1. I tried isopropyl and toothbrush on one and took it from tacky enough to lift off the table to just slightly grippy. I'll see if I can get away with painting over that one, if not Simple Green, if that doesn't work... More Mechs!
Okay, yeah, that's exactly the vintage that hit street before the plastic reformulation. Good luck!
Looking for opinions/feedback... Marco Frisoni and a few other people I follow have recently done examples of "Grisaille" painting where they're mostly using glazes or contrasts over very heavily underpainted models to sketch out the light on the model before adding color but they're all using very greyscale schemes with grays highlighted and sketched up through pure white, resulting in largely cooler tones on their models.
If one were to attempt the same thing but wanted a warmer tone, what colors (GW specifically) would you use?
Start with wraithbone as your basetone and work to pure white with something like pallid witch flesh or screaming skull as a midtone? Or use wraithbone as a midtone and start with zandri dust or another darker tan color with white as a final hightlight?
Looking for opinions/feedback... Marco Frisoni and a few other people I follow have recently done examples of "Grisaille" painting where they're mostly using glazes or contrasts over very heavily underpainted models to sketch out the light on the model before adding color but they're all using very greyscale schemes with grays highlighted and sketched up through pure white, resulting in largely cooler tones on their models.
If one were to attempt the same thing but wanted a warmer tone, what colors (GW specifically) would you use?
Start with wraithbone as your basetone and work to pure white with something like pallid witch flesh or screaming skull as a midtone? Or use wraithbone as a midtone and start with zandri dust or another darker tan color with white as a final hightlight?
Get a darker starting point. Like Rhinox Hide or something. The whole idea with Grisaille is to start with a very dark tone and build it up from there. If you start with Wraithbone you're not going to have much contrast when the contrasts and oils come out.
Also in the video he does some air brushing and then does the detailing by hand. Obviously it works, but you might try doing the air brush step and then a lot of dry brushing, building up to brighter tones with each coat.
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VanguardBut now the dream is over. And the insect is awake.Registered User, __BANNED USERSregular
i actually had to write down my paint scheme for this since there are so many laters
i actually had to write down my paint scheme for this since there are so many laters
24 goddamn paints to get that outcome
The veiled path harlequins are about 33? Paints I lack 12 of them which is my debate about the 12 mile ride to the gw store to get them and the sprays to tackle my backlog
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VanguardBut now the dream is over. And the insect is awake.Registered User, __BANNED USERSregular
i actually had to write down my paint scheme for this since there are so many laters
24 goddamn paints to get that outcome
The veiled path harlequins are about 33? Paints I lack 12 of them which is my debate about the 12 mile ride to the gw store to get them and the sprays to tackle my backlog
I walked 7.( miles round trip earlier this week to get a lord of virulence - do it!
i actually had to write down my paint scheme for this since there are so many laters
24 goddamn paints to get that outcome
The veiled path harlequins are about 33? Paints I lack 12 of them which is my debate about the 12 mile ride to the gw store to get them and the sprays to tackle my backlog
I walked 7.( miles round trip earlier this week to get a lord of virulence - do it!
I know as there are things like the newest cryptek, the necron codex and others that I can easily get a coin for but I am on the fence for the Slaanesh one
A drukhari sure! a necron maybe! a tyranid depends a craftworld yes I feel the realm lords is next month so again it's not bike riding weather {constant winds this week and the sad fact the GW store is open on the days I work so it makes it a even harder trip as I work nights}
Also in the video he does some air brushing and then does the detailing by hand. Obviously it works, but you might try doing the air brush step and then a lot of dry brushing, building up to brighter tones with each coat.
I'll likely try both, but I think I'm already going to prefer something that starts with airbrush zenithals as it's what I'm already pretty familiar with.
Halos Nach TariffCan you blame me?I'm too famous.Registered Userregular
The secret is you don't have to get a super exact ratio every time, no one is going to notice if your red:brown is a little off on one model compared to another, I have a white tile I use for mixing so I just glob a couple of drops of paint on there and keep adding till I get a colour that looks like what I want, you don't really need precise measurements for this sort of thing.
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VanguardBut now the dream is over. And the insect is awake.Registered User, __BANNED USERSregular
Has anyone else gotten really poor results with Corax White rattle can base sprays? Really thick detail destroying layers with a lot of bubbling and inconsistent texture.
Posts
Soooooooo much. Whatcha building?
Yea, some more coats might be good. I only did 3.
Gloss washes usually do well with not messing up vibrancy though I am a little worried about doing it in general. The c'tan I painted with colorshift looked fine with the gloss wash I think.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Started with the AT-ST which was good. Not crazy about it coming half built but the model was well made. Now I'm doing the base set and yikes.
Interesting that the AT-ST came half assembled. I just got a T-47 and same deal. The main chassis was stuck together so all you have to do is stick on the guns and flaps.
Yeah ATST had the whole head as a solid assembly. You put the legs and weapons together, that's it. Its not a big deal I suppose, all the joints are mobile and its not like Im going to kitbash it. Just odd coming from Warhammer.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I wonder if there was a "Hey is this product actually going to take off?" mentality back in the beginning, and once the numbers panned out the upped the quality.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Almost definitely. Even amongst the PVC stuff, there's a definite jump in quality. Honestly, it's mostly fine. Aside from like Ron Pearlman as Princess Leia, it does the job. Because they're based essentially on real people carrying real things, the models have way less extraneous detail to them than a space marine might. They're much closer to something like bolt action miniatures. The iffy early models are saved by being able to do a good paint job very easily.
The better quality models are drastically better though. Just built myself a squad of shoretroopers and death troopers and the details are all incredibly crisp on them.
I will say the air speeder beats the AT-ST for weird pre-builtness because aside from the tips of the guns and some engine flaps its a single part. Edit: Ah I missed this was already mentioned.
Double Edit: I will say, because of when the movies came out, if you want to paint some moustaches, boy is Rebels the army for you.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
15 minutes with brush cleaner, and it almost looks new. Probably never able to do detail work, but for basecoating, priming and metallics? Absolutely fine.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
and his trainer Chad Thundercock
https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=swole&type=things&sort=relevant
I've had them in front of a fan for a couple hours and haven't improved, the plastic doesn't seem more flexible than usual, so I'm guessing it is just the primer.
What can I do to de-tackify these? Internet search doesn't seem to give good or consistent advice... so what do?
If it were me, my first reaction would be to strip them with Simple Green then give them a thorough soapy scrub, rinse, and air dry. Start back at zero, and see if the results are the same.
You could just try to forge forward, and see if the first basecoat covers over the primer intact.
I know the early GoaC boxes had figures cast in a softer formula of plastic, but I'm pretty sure it was reformulated before the boxes went wide to retail. It's possible some of the early formula slipped through, but I'd not heard any particular problems with priming. That said, I have had other miniatures that were cast in a soft plastic behave badly with some spray primers and paints, leaving exactly the kind of tacky surface you're describing. Most of those got used up in terrain projects I eventually varnished (heavily) over, but the handful I had left over in my box...I'm not sure they've ever stopped feeling tacky. I'd have to check, but then we're talking on timescales of years between spraying and final work, and I'm pretty sure that's not helpful!
I do have an early GoaC and Beginner Box, got them at GenCon when they were released and they are way softer than the wave 1. I tried isopropyl and toothbrush on one and took it from tacky enough to lift off the table to just slightly grippy. I'll see if I can get away with painting over that one, if not Simple Green, if that doesn't work... More Mechs!
Okay, yeah, that's exactly the vintage that hit street before the plastic reformulation. Good luck!
Facetime!
Got bored doing real painting so smashed out a bunch of faces.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Sorry for crappy gif.
Do the colours work OK?
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Hello this is my death guard scheme
I’m going to change the rim color to probably be a dark blue/green color
And for the horns, either do them in a natural, cold white/grey color
OR
do some kind of purple fade to a bright orange for insane contrast
Edit: photo updated
But good for a test model IMO
If one were to attempt the same thing but wanted a warmer tone, what colors (GW specifically) would you use?
Start with wraithbone as your basetone and work to pure white with something like pallid witch flesh or screaming skull as a midtone? Or use wraithbone as a midtone and start with zandri dust or another darker tan color with white as a final hightlight?
Marco's video spoilered for reference:
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
With orange rust washed into the corners and rivets
Oh, wait, this is about the base rim?
Anyway, some bright rust wash might work with the colder armour
Get a darker starting point. Like Rhinox Hide or something. The whole idea with Grisaille is to start with a very dark tone and build it up from there. If you start with Wraithbone you're not going to have much contrast when the contrasts and oils come out.
24 goddamn paints to get that outcome
The veiled path harlequins are about 33? Paints I lack 12 of them which is my debate about the 12 mile ride to the gw store to get them and the sprays to tackle my backlog
I walked 7.( miles round trip earlier this week to get a lord of virulence - do it!
I know as there are things like the newest cryptek, the necron codex and others that I can easily get a coin for but I am on the fence for the Slaanesh one
A drukhari sure! a necron maybe! a tyranid depends a craftworld yes I feel the realm lords is next month so again it's not bike riding weather {constant winds this week and the sad fact the GW store is open on the days I work so it makes it a even harder trip as I work nights}
I'll likely try both, but I think I'm already going to prefer something that starts with airbrush zenithals as it's what I'm already pretty familiar with.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Someone needs to step into the wonderful world of mixing paint.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
This is a skill I'd like to work on, but how do you keep your paint schemes uniform across multiple models?
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Mixing paint would slow me down for this, I think