Tbh the key to hordes painted is having a plan and knowing what you can get away with not doing
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
I’m using streaking grime on my orks and i figure it saves me at least three steps that would otherwise take more time then just glopping on the grime and wiping it off.
I had a fairly interesting conversation with a commission painter a couple days ago and learned quite a bit.
I didn't think to ask at the time, for something like painting power armor is there any practical difference between "blacklining" and brush painting to make sure you skip the blacklined areas (shadows), or using something like an oil or enamel wash afterwards to pinwash in the blacklines?
Not claiming to be the most expert or that this is all-encompassing, but:
an oil or enamel wash (or something like contrast), depending on the dilution, will have kind smooth blend from darkest corner where it ends up being thickest to outwards where there's less pigment over the original colour.
You could achieve a kinda similar effect by layering or glazing your colour over a dark basecoat and with every further layer/glaze being further eway from the deepest corner. The latter takes way more time and brush control. The effect of both will look different
+2
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
In case anyone was wondering exactly how ridiculous LI tinys (like minis, but smaller) are:
On the left, seven parts. On the right, fourteen.
My Mutalith stand in is ready. Blood for the Blood God is pretty neat
Tri-Optimum reminds you that there are only one-hundred-sixty-three shopping days until Christmas. Just 1 extra work cycle twice a week will give you the spending money you need to make this holiday a very special one.
I'm getting to the point where I'm starting to hate painting. I want to paint well, but pressure is telling me to speed up and just get things done. Problem is, speed painting techs just don't work well for the stuff I play or am working on building up right now (World Eaters and Stormcasts).
I just want to sit down and play stuff, but I have all these grey and primed minis sitting here and I get endless shit from folks locally about my stuff not being painted.
- The Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse (2017, colorized)
I'm getting to the point where I'm starting to hate painting. I want to paint well, but pressure is telling me to speed up and just get things done. Problem is, speed painting techs just don't work well for the stuff I play or am working on building up right now (World Eaters and Stormcasts).
I just want to sit down and play stuff, but I have all these grey and primed minis sitting here and I get endless shit from folks locally about my stuff not being painted.
Firstly you're well within your rights to tell anyone giving you grief to fuck right off if it's getting you down. It's a hobby you do for fun, not work. You owe nobody any obligation to paint anything you don't want to.
Secondly, I'm not sure what you mean by the 'speed painting techs don't work well' on your stuff? Stormcast can be metallic spray and contrast/ink and you're 90% done if you want to. You need to decide if you want to paint to your best ability and accept it'll take forever, or you want to do good enough at table top distance and get stuff done. Trying to do both is impossible for most of us and leads to the paralysis and bad feels you have now.
Maybe try getting that base and ink down on a unit and tell yourself you can come back to do the details later? That absolute minimum will look so much better on the table than grey plastic and the good gaming feelings that produces helps massively with the motivation.
Of course you can also be happy with just grey plastic if you want to be! Not everybody needs to engage with all aspects of the hobby. If you just like the actual physical gaming bit that's perfectly fine.
If you want to, maybe you can post your paint scheme and what painting tools you have at your disposal, and maybe someone has a good idea on how to get to where you want to go the easiest way?
I'm getting to the point where I'm starting to hate painting. I want to paint well, but pressure is telling me to speed up and just get things done. Problem is, speed painting techs just don't work well for the stuff I play or am working on building up right now (World Eaters and Stormcasts).
I just want to sit down and play stuff, but I have all these grey and primed minis sitting here and I get endless shit from folks locally about my stuff not being painted.
Firstly you're well within your rights to tell anyone giving you grief to fuck right off if it's getting you down. It's a hobby you do for fun, not work. You owe nobody any obligation to paint anything you don't want to.
Secondly, I'm not sure what you mean by the 'speed painting techs don't work well' on your stuff? Stormcast can be metallic spray and contrast/ink and you're 90% done if you want to. You need to decide if you want to paint to your best ability and accept it'll take forever, or you want to do good enough at table top distance and get stuff done. Trying to do both is impossible for most of us and leads to the paralysis and bad feels you have now.
Maybe try getting that base and ink down on a unit and tell yourself you can come back to do the details later? That absolute minimum will look so much better on the table than grey plastic and the good gaming feelings that produces helps massively with the motivation.
Of course you can also be happy with just grey plastic if you want to be! Not everybody needs to engage with all aspects of the hobby. If you just like the actual physical gaming bit that's perfectly fine.
I've tried Contrast paints on some Stormcast test minis and absolutely hated the way they came out. Likewise with Space Marines. Too many smooth non-detailed surfaces aren't great for contrasts/inks. My Ork Kommando kill team paints up great with them though.
If you want to, maybe you can post your paint scheme and what painting tools you have at your disposal, and maybe someone has a good idea on how to get to where you want to go the easiest way?
My Stormcasts are painted as Astral Templars. ProAcryl Burgundy for the armor, Glistening Gold from Two Thin Coats for all the pauldrons, trim, and so on. In the interest of time I usually also paint the hilts and pommels of weapons with the same Glistening Gold, but shade them along with all the non-pauldron/trim bits with Nuln Oil. The main gold bits get a wash of Coelia Greenshade.
My Space Marines are similar. Screamer Pink for the armor, Abaddon Black/Black Legion on the chapter shoulder, Retributor Armour for the trim (and any mechanical hands/arms/power fist fingers, etc.), and Dark Reaper for the bolter casings. Armor gets washed with Carroburg Crimson, trim gets washed with Reikland Fleshshade, and everything else gets Nuln'd.
World Eaters vary. Some things I do the standard red/brass with Mephiston Red and Runelord Brass, wash it all with Agrax Earthshade and call it a day. A custom paint scheme I've been using for them is prime with Leadbelcher, drybrush a brighter silver like Stormhost Silver, paint the armor panels in a bone color (Zandri Dust usually) and the inside armor lining and bolt pistol casings with Khorne Red. Everything but the red parts get washed with Seraphim Sepia, and the bone bits get a final light highlight of Ushabti Bone. Keeping the trim neat takes forever, regardless of how I prime and paint. I'm talking ~2 hours per model for a basic Berzerker.
As far as tools? Basic stuff. Brushes of varying quality and sizes. Dry brushes. I have an airbrush and compressor (Iwata Eclipse) that I only ever use for priming stuff. Trying to actually paint a model with it sucks due to cramping from hand problems.
- The Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse (2017, colorized)
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
I'd use the airbrush to lay down your base coat too, then paint acrylics by hand on the details. It'll save you a ton of time for armies that are 95% armor.
It looks pretty easy; mostly dry brushing with a bit of the trim being painted on. He’s saying 20mins per mini.
Looks like it leaves things at a pretty good tabletop standard but the opportunity to go back if you want.
I want to say it’s a skill to know when to just call it on a model. I think just getting some paint on a model just helps so much. I had a game where I didn’t have 3 characters and some jet bikes done, but they had most of their red done and they fit in fine.
Haven't decided on colours for the crest yet.
Sergeants so far have black/white. Yellow is a spot colour for the army so far. This guy also has some purple on the cloak. Maybe purple/white crest, too? Or keep the black/white army wide?
Haven't decided on colours for the crest yet.
Sergeants so far have black/white. Yellow is a spot colour for the army so far. This guy also has some purple on the cloak. Maybe purple/white crest, too? Or keep the black/white army wide?
Good lord that mini has some TEXTURE. Amazing work!
admanbunionize your workplaceSeattle, WARegistered Userregular
The purple looks good on its own but I think it ends up being the highest chroma color on the model and drawing the eye away from all the detail and towards the head decoration, which is not ideal.
I think even if you go for a more dramatic color choice you want a more muted tone.
I second that. Also, to me personally, when you colour the bows at the ends of the crest they end up looking like bows on a girl's pigtails. I'd stick to painting the crest.
All in all an amazing job so far.
yea, slightly boring as it may be I'm trending to nr.5 right now. Model already has so much going on
unrelated to that: it's interesting how differently the differnt pigments stick to surfaces. There's a rust pigment in some parts of the bases and it sticks really well and covrs nicely. The main pigments, a yellow and a pale ochre on the other hand don't stick to flat surfaces at all, kinda? Makes blending the model into the base a bit of a hassle
honovere on
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ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
I vote for purple, but go dark.
I also vote for painting the bows at the end. Give that man the pigtails he clearly needs.
+1
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
I am loathe to admit it but 4 or 5 with a heavy lean towards 5. It's the least disruptive to the overall composition.
webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
edited June 2
Doing some Stormcast test paint schemes in prep for 4.0. Vallejo Liquid Gold, Vallejo Air Silver and Vallejo air burnt steel. Already I'm leaning hard for the burnt steel, but we'll see what it's like when it's done.
Not for the painting, which is passable at best, but because I've managed it all in one day. Thing is with the clear acrylic bases you need to have the feet painted before you can glue them on, and then I just kind of kept going.
Let's hope I like Rumbleslam now when I have my first game on Tuesday!
While putting on the varnish on the characters and recon marines I remembered this little thing hanging out in the cupboard. I can't even field it without dragging out my old guard as militia to get to enough points
Decals done. Oils next
+14
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
That man simply cannot fit through that hatch. Top entry only?
Posts
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
I am not a total monster I do plan on painting in the eyes and teeth of the carpet of termagants I have
I had one in 5th. I sold it in 8th.
I didn't think to ask at the time, for something like painting power armor is there any practical difference between "blacklining" and brush painting to make sure you skip the blacklined areas (shadows), or using something like an oil or enamel wash afterwards to pinwash in the blacklines?
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
an oil or enamel wash (or something like contrast), depending on the dilution, will have kind smooth blend from darkest corner where it ends up being thickest to outwards where there's less pigment over the original colour.
You could achieve a kinda similar effect by layering or glazing your colour over a dark basecoat and with every further layer/glaze being further eway from the deepest corner. The latter takes way more time and brush control. The effect of both will look different
On the left, seven parts. On the right, fourteen.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
I just want to sit down and play stuff, but I have all these grey and primed minis sitting here and I get endless shit from folks locally about my stuff not being painted.
- The Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse (2017, colorized)
Firstly you're well within your rights to tell anyone giving you grief to fuck right off if it's getting you down. It's a hobby you do for fun, not work. You owe nobody any obligation to paint anything you don't want to.
Secondly, I'm not sure what you mean by the 'speed painting techs don't work well' on your stuff? Stormcast can be metallic spray and contrast/ink and you're 90% done if you want to. You need to decide if you want to paint to your best ability and accept it'll take forever, or you want to do good enough at table top distance and get stuff done. Trying to do both is impossible for most of us and leads to the paralysis and bad feels you have now.
Maybe try getting that base and ink down on a unit and tell yourself you can come back to do the details later? That absolute minimum will look so much better on the table than grey plastic and the good gaming feelings that produces helps massively with the motivation.
Of course you can also be happy with just grey plastic if you want to be! Not everybody needs to engage with all aspects of the hobby. If you just like the actual physical gaming bit that's perfectly fine.
I've tried Contrast paints on some Stormcast test minis and absolutely hated the way they came out. Likewise with Space Marines. Too many smooth non-detailed surfaces aren't great for contrasts/inks. My Ork Kommando kill team paints up great with them though.
My Stormcasts are painted as Astral Templars. ProAcryl Burgundy for the armor, Glistening Gold from Two Thin Coats for all the pauldrons, trim, and so on. In the interest of time I usually also paint the hilts and pommels of weapons with the same Glistening Gold, but shade them along with all the non-pauldron/trim bits with Nuln Oil. The main gold bits get a wash of Coelia Greenshade.
My Space Marines are similar. Screamer Pink for the armor, Abaddon Black/Black Legion on the chapter shoulder, Retributor Armour for the trim (and any mechanical hands/arms/power fist fingers, etc.), and Dark Reaper for the bolter casings. Armor gets washed with Carroburg Crimson, trim gets washed with Reikland Fleshshade, and everything else gets Nuln'd.
World Eaters vary. Some things I do the standard red/brass with Mephiston Red and Runelord Brass, wash it all with Agrax Earthshade and call it a day. A custom paint scheme I've been using for them is prime with Leadbelcher, drybrush a brighter silver like Stormhost Silver, paint the armor panels in a bone color (Zandri Dust usually) and the inside armor lining and bolt pistol casings with Khorne Red. Everything but the red parts get washed with Seraphim Sepia, and the bone bits get a final light highlight of Ushabti Bone. Keeping the trim neat takes forever, regardless of how I prime and paint. I'm talking ~2 hours per model for a basic Berzerker.
As far as tools? Basic stuff. Brushes of varying quality and sizes. Dry brushes. I have an airbrush and compressor (Iwata Eclipse) that I only ever use for priming stuff. Trying to actually paint a model with it sucks due to cramping from hand problems.
- The Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse (2017, colorized)
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
It looks pretty easy; mostly dry brushing with a bit of the trim being painted on. He’s saying 20mins per mini.
Looks like it leaves things at a pretty good tabletop standard but the opportunity to go back if you want.
I want to say it’s a skill to know when to just call it on a model. I think just getting some paint on a model just helps so much. I had a game where I didn’t have 3 characters and some jet bikes done, but they had most of their red done and they fit in fine.
Sergeants so far have black/white. Yellow is a spot colour for the army so far. This guy also has some purple on the cloak. Maybe purple/white crest, too? Or keep the black/white army wide?
what am i voting for again?
Good lord that mini has some TEXTURE. Amazing work!
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I think even if you go for a more dramatic color choice you want a more muted tone.
All in all an amazing job so far.
unrelated to that: it's interesting how differently the differnt pigments stick to surfaces. There's a rust pigment in some parts of the bases and it sticks really well and covrs nicely. The main pigments, a yellow and a pale ochre on the other hand don't stick to flat surfaces at all, kinda? Makes blending the model into the base a bit of a hassle
I also vote for painting the bows at the end. Give that man the pigtails he clearly needs.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
As always, looks awesome.
Buying my coworker a bottle of resin was a great investment
I just spilled a pot of micro set over a pile of decal sheets.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Not for the painting, which is passable at best, but because I've managed it all in one day. Thing is with the clear acrylic bases you need to have the feet painted before you can glue them on, and then I just kind of kept going.
Let's hope I like Rumbleslam now when I have my first game on Tuesday!
Decals done. Oils next
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?