That primarch looks so much better than what GW used for their guilliman promo picture. Even the lighting and posing is better. There would have been a whole lot less initial complains if they hadn't done their shots from an awful angle and painted to look like a Picasso face.
Is he the same size as the forgeworld one?
I am tempted to get his kit but I would leave the helmet on because I find it silly a lot of marines go helmetless
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
That primarch looks so much better than what GW used for their guilliman promo picture. Even the lighting and posing is better. There would have been a whole lot less initial complains if they hadn't done their shots from an awful angle and painted to look like a Picasso face.
Is he the same size as the forgeworld one?
I am tempted to get his kit but I would leave the helmet on because I find it silly a lot of marines go helmetless
Robot Guilleman is bigger by a bit. Mostly because of the armour. The heads seem to be about the same size though.
Well, there's a lot of fixing ahead of me to really pull it up to 100%, so here it is for now:
Can you please give some insight on how you painted the black armour? Like, is that pure black or a mixture? What colours did you use for the highlights?
-Black undercoat
-a mix of black, grey and a little bit of blue airbrushed from the top
-then gradually brighter glazes of the above mix
-pure black into crevices and corners
Sorry but I always improvise the proportions so I can offer no exact help. I tend to make the midtones the most blue, while the shadows are black and the highlights greyer.
Is he the same size as the forgeworld one?
I am tempted to get his kit but I would leave the helmet on because I find it silly a lot of marines go helmetless
New Guilliman is a good deal bigger but the heads are about the same. And yeah big armored guys with bare heads always looks silly and misproportioned. With the helmet on you can handwave the proportions but on Terminators and big robo-things the head showing just puts the problem of how exactly they're stretched and contorted into their armor right in your face.
Serious question: How much of a learning curve to the airbrush is there, compared to brush painting?
What is this I don't even.
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Custom SpecialI know I am, I'm sure I am,I'm Sounders 'til I die!Registered Userregular
So far I've only used my airbrush for priming and it's pretty simple. Put primer in cup, press and pull trigger to spray. It's a small learning curve going from rattle cans to airbrush overall, the most fiddly stuff is getting all your adapters and connectors right to go from air to brush (I imagine with a purpose-built compressor it's easier).
Yeah, I only ever use my brush for doing a base colour, and maaaaybe for some light zenith highlighting (which is just spraying from one direction). Most complex part is just cleaning the damn thing.
McGibs on
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Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
Serious question: How much of a learning curve to the airbrush is there, compared to brush painting?
It's much the same, just that most kids aren't handed a brush in art class in school to get them started at an early age. You can just use it for for basic, broad work like basecoating pretty easily, but as you learn more about technique and develop skills, you can do more and more.
The brunt of the stumbling blocks when it comes to airbrushing are
A) getting a feel for the required paint consistency vs pressure, and
understanding the likely reason for flow problems - ie, odd spray pattern, bubbles in the cup, dried paint around/on the needle tip, loose seal, and so forth.
Once you get used to how it operates on a technical level, it becomes much less stressful to handle.
Kneel on
Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Serious question: How much of a learning curve to the airbrush is there, compared to brush painting?
Pretty high. It honestly took me more than a year of off and on mucking about to get to the point where I was getting the kind of results I could get with a normal brush with an Airbrush and then longer still for it to actually be a time saving venture that let me do the neat effects I wanted. But that was pretty sporadic attempts to learn. The main issue is that cleaning and maintenance takes a significant amount of time and its a completely new skill you have to learn with very little overlap with conventional painting. It really helps if you have a person to teach you. For a long time I thought it wasn't really worth it, but now it totally is. I mean these are only for terrain, but they took me less than an hour to paint both from bare wood to finished.
The most expensive successful sale of a painted Robbie on eBay was £82 according to the selling tools, so given that it's a £30 model tops, I'm happy with that profit.
As stated, the box was somewhere in the region of £50 and there's still another two models to sell. Assuming at least £30 per model (and I'd hope for more), that'd be an almost £100 profit on a £50 box.
Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
The second one with inks is what I'm going to try with my next model. I picked up red ink and a GW yellow "shade"; are shades usable in this context? Couldn't find any yellow ink. Gonna take another shot at hellish red-orange glow effects.
At some point in this chain of threads someone mentioned that the secret to painting white was actually using the color Payne's Grey and then layering/highlighting with other grays and whites.
I'm about to start on a (long delayed) Infinity army in a kind of white/greys/some-accent-color scheme and was wondering if anyone cared to agree or disagree with the Payne's Grey plan or in general had some tips and tricks on painting white?
The very same! That looks great, nice and bright. Does it have a good intensity/glossiness?
The video does a bright sickly green by doing a white wash in the glowing areas, followed by mixing tons of yellow ink with a little green to make an ink glaze and glazing that area a couple of times, and then highlighting the source with some more white and doing a yellow ink glaze over that and the transition. It looks really good, though somewhat challenging.
The stripping is going along well, most of the models ended up looking roughly like this:
They'll be in decent shape for the next guy, but I'm actually thinking about keeping a few of them (enough to make a single Tactical Squad), painting them up in obnoxiously bright colors (complete with solid goblin green bases), and using them as a throwback killteam (including a mk1 Rhino/Razorback).
SmokeStacks on
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valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
You guys and your Girlymans. I still haven't touched my Alexis Pollux model.
At some point in this chain of threads someone mentioned that the secret to painting white was actually using the color Payne's Grey and then layering/highlighting with other grays and whites.
I'm about to start on a (long delayed) Infinity army in a kind of white/greys/some-accent-color scheme and was wondering if anyone cared to agree or disagree with the Payne's Grey plan or in general had some tips and tricks on painting white?
At some point in this chain of threads someone mentioned that the secret to painting white was actually using the color Payne's Grey and then layering/highlighting with other grays and whites.
I'm about to start on a (long delayed) Infinity army in a kind of white/greys/some-accent-color scheme and was wondering if anyone cared to agree or disagree with the Payne's Grey plan or in general had some tips and tricks on painting white?
The key to painting white (and black) is to realize that you never see pure white -- you see white colored by the light reflecting off of it. The quick and dirty way to skip through all the color theory stuff is to decide if you want a "cool" white or a "warm" white; a cool white will be painted with greys and maybe even some blues, whereas a warm white will be painted with cream and bone colors.
This is a pretty good explanation of the idea, though the painting guides themselves are... not great.
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Is he the same size as the forgeworld one?
I am tempted to get his kit but I would leave the helmet on because I find it silly a lot of marines go helmetless
Robot Guilleman is bigger by a bit. Mostly because of the armour. The heads seem to be about the same size though.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Can you please give some insight on how you painted the black armour? Like, is that pure black or a mixture? What colours did you use for the highlights?
-a mix of black, grey and a little bit of blue airbrushed from the top
-then gradually brighter glazes of the above mix
-pure black into crevices and corners
Sorry but I always improvise the proportions so I can offer no exact help. I tend to make the midtones the most blue, while the shadows are black and the highlights greyer.
Probably not before next year, though.
New Guilliman is a good deal bigger but the heads are about the same. And yeah big armored guys with bare heads always looks silly and misproportioned. With the helmet on you can handwave the proportions but on Terminators and big robo-things the head showing just puts the problem of how exactly they're stretched and contorted into their armor right in your face.
It's much the same, just that most kids aren't handed a brush in art class in school to get them started at an early age. You can just use it for for basic, broad work like basecoating pretty easily, but as you learn more about technique and develop skills, you can do more and more.
A) getting a feel for the required paint consistency vs pressure, and
Once you get used to how it operates on a technical level, it becomes much less stressful to handle.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Pretty high. It honestly took me more than a year of off and on mucking about to get to the point where I was getting the kind of results I could get with a normal brush with an Airbrush and then longer still for it to actually be a time saving venture that let me do the neat effects I wanted. But that was pretty sporadic attempts to learn. The main issue is that cleaning and maintenance takes a significant amount of time and its a completely new skill you have to learn with very little overlap with conventional painting. It really helps if you have a person to teach you. For a long time I thought it wasn't really worth it, but now it totally is. I mean these are only for terrain, but they took me less than an hour to paint both from bare wood to finished.
I thought I was being optimistic but... well.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
EDIT also the box was only around £50 and there are two other minis to paint and shift.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Just ask in the thread, we'll throw recommendations at you.
As stated, the box was somewhere in the region of £50 and there's still another two models to sell. Assuming at least £30 per model (and I'd hope for more), that'd be an almost £100 profit on a £50 box.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
The second one with inks is what I'm going to try with my next model. I picked up red ink and a GW yellow "shade"; are shades usable in this context? Couldn't find any yellow ink. Gonna take another shot at hellish red-orange glow effects.
I'm about to start on a (long delayed) Infinity army in a kind of white/greys/some-accent-color scheme and was wondering if anyone cared to agree or disagree with the Payne's Grey plan or in general had some tips and tricks on painting white?
The video does a bright sickly green by doing a white wash in the glowing areas, followed by mixing tons of yellow ink with a little green to make an ink glaze and glazing that area a couple of times, and then highlighting the source with some more white and doing a yellow ink glaze over that and the transition. It looks really good, though somewhat challenging.
They'll be in decent shape for the next guy, but I'm actually thinking about keeping a few of them (enough to make a single Tactical Squad), painting them up in obnoxiously bright colors (complete with solid goblin green bases), and using them as a throwback killteam (including a mk1 Rhino/Razorback).
I've been following this guide.
The key to painting white (and black) is to realize that you never see pure white -- you see white colored by the light reflecting off of it. The quick and dirty way to skip through all the color theory stuff is to decide if you want a "cool" white or a "warm" white; a cool white will be painted with greys and maybe even some blues, whereas a warm white will be painted with cream and bone colors.
This is a pretty good explanation of the idea, though the painting guides themselves are... not great.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Whoa! Hey, easy there! Not a fan...
Jesus, I think that's the fastest I've painted a mini, given my home situation.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Just Kiki from RH, but I've got a few Black Sun miniatures for when I'm done painting stuff to flog and fund Christmas.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Maybe, once I'm comfortable with funds, I'll give it a shot.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!