As excited as I am for Contrast, I'm less excited for using their primer. You can't ship GW aerosol cans via Canada post so my local game shop can't get them in, meaning driving an hour and a half to get to a GW shop that carries their aerosols, or paying a ton of shipping each time I need a can.
Hopefully the internet hive mind finds a cheap airbrush friendly alternative quickly, cuz I neeeeeed those contrast paints.
Just grab a regular jar and thin it down with airbrush flow improver? I doubt there will be colors that are spray can only, unless I missed an announcement.
The system requires a "magic" primer (only in rattlecan) + the actual paint (only in pots). So no color is spray only (or, indeed, spray at all), but you have to use a spray.
The primer also comes in paint pots and I'm not sure how necessary it really is. I've seen some pictures from someone who says he used the special primer just for zethal highlighting over black primer and then used contrast paints over the whole model and it looked really good.
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
Purple
Ah, I didn't realize it was a whole special system. Well hopefully the primer/spray side gets Air jars soon.
I was under the impression that the "magic" primer was both necessary and only in rattlecans. (I mean, of course you can put contrast over whatever, but I understood that it would only give the expected effect over the "magic" primer.)
But I am happy that I was mistaken.
(Incidentally, I tried nighthaunt gloom over mid-tone gray (vallejo) over black primer (GW) instead of the recommended gloom over white primer, and I did not get the expected results. Darker as expected, obviously, but also it didn't quite flow the way I thought it would.)
Sic transit gloria mundi.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Purple
I wonder if it's all hands on deck at Vallejo HQ after this news broke.
ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Purple
Admittedly, I've been trying to follow this thread, but whatever the product is still completely confuses me. I get that it's some kind of paint that emulates talent for the laymen, but that's as far as I've gotten. :P
GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
Purple
No metallic colors though, which I mostly understand...but I'd love a gold/leadbelcher one for quickly getting my Stormcast Eternals done. My Ultramarines are already so far along that switching to contrast for them now would probably not work out.
ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
Purple
I'd think it'd pool in anyone's hands. That's what liquids do when you try to hold them.
I know where the door is. I'll see myself out.
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Halos Nach TariffCan you blame me?I'm too famous.Registered Userregular
I have heard that it does not pool/tide mark nearly so readily as your standard citadel wash does, but it will still do so over large, flat areas if you're not careful.
It looks like the primer is not necessary for the paints to work, it's just providing the 'contrast' for it to show up against (I did hear somewhere that there are actually two contrast primers in the range, the bone one and a darker grey-ish one? But I can't find confirmation of that anywhere), seems like you can use them over other basecoats, but the final colour will be change, they won't work very well over black primer, for instance.
That is what I am curious about is it a specific primer or can I just use the current range? as the only pics I saw of it looked the same with a new graphic talking about the contrast paint.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
No metallic colors though, which I mostly understand...but I'd love a gold/leadbelcher one for quickly getting my Stormcast Eternals done. My Ultramarines are already so far along that switching to contrast for them now would probably not work out.
They work well enough over metallic undercoats to effectively make coloured metallics, at least according to that guy in that tweet that brought his gold-primed enginseer along to test with.
I was planning on trying fleshy-schemed tyranids with primarily washes and glazes, so these contrast paints have me excited for that. Tyranids got lots of bumpy surfaces that should lend itself nicely, and with some medium, blending multiple colours together.
GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
Purple
It really does look impressive. I was very skeptical at first, but seeing it in action, these could be a game changer, especially when painting big units of chaff models.
It really does look impressive. I was very skeptical at first, but seeing it in action, these could be a game changer, especially when painting big units of chaff models.
I think I am going to try them out on bloodletters.
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valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
Choosing how to base my minis is just..... The hardest choice.
for some yes for others no.
it's the heroic bases they offer I might use but it's ones from the 40k and aos.
I am thinking about the turret for either my custom hive tyrant [just have not had the time or energy for it] or my carnifex. the tree from aos for either the shadowseer or solitaire and so on. I have used parts from bits boxes to do gaps {when there is a gap between their foot and the base. Because I set the models pose differently for various reasons. I used some of the immortal spure parts for my orcs and tyranids
Working on a Titanicus paint scheme and I know I want it to have purple with gold trim but not be just straight Xestobiax. Pardon the test job, right now leaning towards this purple and grey combo, with white just being used for the head and maybe the occasional other armour piece (knee or crest etc).
Would a lighter grey maybe suit it better?
Also settled on a quick 30 minute paint scheme to bang out the scenery, pretty happy with how quick this turns around:
Last post about my Tomb Kings team for a while. I started work on some peripheral minis like the coach and some star players and have kind of burned out; my group's league is starting up this week and I'm hoping that will give me some momentum to keep making progress.
These are my Tomb Guardians! It took me a long time to settle on what I wanted to use to build these guys; I wanted them to look something like a combination of a reanimated, mummified corpse, and a magical construct. I ended up using converted Necron Lychguard, with a bunch of WHFB Tomb Guard bits and some conversion bits from Puppets War. A lot of disparate pieces that I think came together really well. The Lychguard come with a big extra spinal column on their backs that starts nowhere and ends nowhere. I ended up using those as their main spines by clipping out the main lumbar bit of the necron. The result I think makes more aesthetic sense, helps blur the line for me between construct and skeleton, and gives the Guardians some needed height to sell the 5 Strength.
There's more angles in the spoiler, alongside some group shots and my most recent WIPS: the Star Player Hack Enslash; a guy I'm going to use as a Wizard (I originally ordered him off the internet to make a big 5 Strength Star Player out of, but he's way smaller than I thought); and my coach. I'm still trying to decide if I want to try cast light on my Wizard. It's something I've never done before, and I really like the way his skin turned out, but if I can get the cast light from the fire to look right I think it'd be really cool.
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
Purple
I just finished my new intro box Battletech miniatures, plus a couple extras! Yay!! My goal with this entire batch was to get them done as quickly as possible, which meant minimizing the number of steps I needed to take. Tabletop Quality, as it were. Not that I can do anything but.
Here's Team Yellow versus Team Purple:
Team Yellow: White Primer, Yellow Basecoat, then panel line with Casandora Yellow wash (amazing, but a little fiddly), detail, then topcoat and base. The panel lining took approximately forever, and is a little inconsistent across all six figs, but I'm happy with how it turned out. It looks much more orange in person, which really makes the figs pop.
Team Purple: White Primer, Purple Basecoat, then drybrush with Lucius Lilac (amazing drybrush paint, full stop), detail, topcoat and base. These six figures took about 1/4 the time as Team Yellow, because drybrushing is infinitely faster than panel-lining to bring out the detail.
I'm really happy with how these came out in the end, and now it's lit a fire under me to keep painting and keep up the momentum. I'm already halfway done with another lance, and hope to have it done in a week or so; combined this is already four or five times the progress I made compared to all of last year.
So I set up my airbrush last night and primed some new Gloomhaven minis, and said Eff It, and primed the other KDM monsters I had assembled. I think I'm improving with live troubleshooting of airbrushing, as I had a couple separate and different issues last night that I was able to work through. I think I *probably* should be using an airbrush with a bigger nozzle for priming, but I got through 5 gloomhaven minis and 8 KDM boss monsters with only minor issues.
One thing was clogging. I was zenithal priming, but the base coat of black meant that I had to do ~13 minis all fully coated, which meant a lot of black primer. I did a small bowl twice, then got cocky/stupid and did a large bowl of primer. However, I finally figured out how to backblow (I think that's the term), and that seemed to make a huge deal in terms of being able to mix the airflow improver and the primer. So, I had one clog here with the black primer, but after figuring out the back blow, no more clogs for the rest of the session.
The next issue I was having was that I was getting some splatter on the minis when I was first pressing the trigger down (airflow only, no paint). I couldn't really figure out why (I was cleaning the front of the airbrush regularly), but an easy enough solution was to depress the trigger with the brush facing my hand first, move it to the model, then send paint. Super duper obvious, but took me several minis to work through it.
I have a few questions though:
First - I use a ventilation paint station and a mask with filters. I don't have the ventilation station venting *into* anything. Is that kosher? Or should I rig it to vent into a bag or something?
You're still venting particles. I used to have my station with the vent hose up against a window screen, and when I finally moved it, I had a perfect circle painted on the screen, even with the labrynthine air path and filter liner. These days, I have an old sock over the vent with a ziplock bag around it.
It means painting doesn't put little particles in the air that will settle over the gaming area.
I picked up my first Finecast minis, Eldar Rangers, and I think I can understand the complaints: their rifles all curve to the side. I know some women say they don’t mind, but I’m very self conscious about it. So how do I fix them? Do I put them in near boiling water for a minute and gently bend them straight?
Edit: also any other things I should be aware of when working with finecast?
italianranma on
飛べねぇ豚はただの豚だ。
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Near boiling isn’t necessary. As hot as your tap can make it should be enough. The real trick, however, is having ice water handy to cool it down fast after unbending and ‘lock’ the new structure in.
Also, even with that, it will still try to return to its base form a little, so you should over-correct the problem before setting it.
I picked up my first Finecast minis, Eldar Rangers, and I think I can understand the complaints: their rifles all curve to the side. I know some women say they don’t mind, but I’m very self conscious about it. So how do I fix them? Do I put them in near boiling water for a minute and gently bend them straight?
Edit: also any other things I should be aware of when working with finecast?
Finecast is brittle as fuck compared to plastic or metal. Expect those ranger rifles to snap off just when you're handling them - a few of the ones on mine did.
Posts
The primer also comes in paint pots and I'm not sure how necessary it really is. I've seen some pictures from someone who says he used the special primer just for zethal highlighting over black primer and then used contrast paints over the whole model and it looked really good.
Also more example, including conrast red over gold primer
edit: list of paints
Blood Angel Red
Volopus Pink
Magos Purple
Akhelian Green
Gryph-hound Orange
Flesh Tearers Red
Shyish Purple
Leviadon Blue
Dark Angels Green
Nazdreg Yellow
Creed Camo (Pale Green)
Aggaros Dunes (Sandy Cream)
Snakebite Leather (Light Brown)
Cygor Brown
Ork Flesh (Green)
Militarum Green
Skeleton Horde (Ivory White)
Gore-Grunta Fur (Red-Brown)
Wyldwood (Dark Brown)
Fyreslayer Flesh (Dark Skin Pink)
Darkoath Flesh (Light Skin Pink)
Space Wolves Grey (Blue-Grey)
Black Templar (Black)
Warp Lightning (Green)
Guilliman Flesh (Midtone Skin Pink)
Gryph-Charger Grey (Pale Blue-Grey)
Basilicanum Grey
Talassar Blue
Aethermatic Blue
Plaguebearer Flesh (Pale Green)
Ultramarines Blue
Terradon Turquoise
Apothecary White
I really want to see the effect of Apothecary White.
But I am happy that I was mistaken.
(Incidentally, I tried nighthaunt gloom over mid-tone gray (vallejo) over black primer (GW) instead of the recommended gloom over white primer, and I did not get the expected results. Darker as expected, obviously, but also it didn't quite flow the way I thought it would.)
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
It's like a goopy shading wash that doesn't leave tide marks.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
It looks like the primer is not necessary for the paints to work, it's just providing the 'contrast' for it to show up against (I did hear somewhere that there are actually two contrast primers in the range, the bone one and a darker grey-ish one? But I can't find confirmation of that anywhere), seems like you can use them over other basecoats, but the final colour will be change, they won't work very well over black primer, for instance.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIEtAlMSndQ
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
They work well enough over metallic undercoats to effectively make coloured metallics, at least according to that guy in that tweet that brought his gold-primed enginseer along to test with.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
No P3 at the local store, what about something by Reaper or Army Painter?
I think I am going to try them out on bloodletters.
Sadly, no Reaper either. Maybe I'll just order some P3 Morrow White.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
for some yes for others no.
it's the heroic bases they offer I might use but it's ones from the 40k and aos.
I am thinking about the turret for either my custom hive tyrant [just have not had the time or energy for it] or my carnifex. the tree from aos for either the shadowseer or solitaire and so on. I have used parts from bits boxes to do gaps {when there is a gap between their foot and the base. Because I set the models pose differently for various reasons. I used some of the immortal spure parts for my orcs and tyranids
Would a lighter grey maybe suit it better?
Also settled on a quick 30 minute paint scheme to bang out the scenery, pretty happy with how quick this turns around:
These are my Tomb Guardians! It took me a long time to settle on what I wanted to use to build these guys; I wanted them to look something like a combination of a reanimated, mummified corpse, and a magical construct. I ended up using converted Necron Lychguard, with a bunch of WHFB Tomb Guard bits and some conversion bits from Puppets War. A lot of disparate pieces that I think came together really well. The Lychguard come with a big extra spinal column on their backs that starts nowhere and ends nowhere. I ended up using those as their main spines by clipping out the main lumbar bit of the necron. The result I think makes more aesthetic sense, helps blur the line for me between construct and skeleton, and gives the Guardians some needed height to sell the 5 Strength.
There's more angles in the spoiler, alongside some group shots and my most recent WIPS: the Star Player Hack Enslash; a guy I'm going to use as a Wizard (I originally ordered him off the internet to make a big 5 Strength Star Player out of, but he's way smaller than I thought); and my coach. I'm still trying to decide if I want to try cast light on my Wizard. It's something I've never done before, and I really like the way his skin turned out, but if I can get the cast light from the fire to look right I think it'd be really cool.
Here's Team Yellow versus Team Purple:
Team Yellow: White Primer, Yellow Basecoat, then panel line with Casandora Yellow wash (amazing, but a little fiddly), detail, then topcoat and base. The panel lining took approximately forever, and is a little inconsistent across all six figs, but I'm happy with how it turned out. It looks much more orange in person, which really makes the figs pop.
Team Purple: White Primer, Purple Basecoat, then drybrush with Lucius Lilac (amazing drybrush paint, full stop), detail, topcoat and base. These six figures took about 1/4 the time as Team Yellow, because drybrushing is infinitely faster than panel-lining to bring out the detail.
I'm really happy with how these came out in the end, and now it's lit a fire under me to keep painting and keep up the momentum. I'm already halfway done with another lance, and hope to have it done in a week or so; combined this is already four or five times the progress I made compared to all of last year.
So like... what. Also, how.
It means painting doesn't put little particles in the air that will settle over the gaming area.
Edit: also any other things I should be aware of when working with finecast?
Also, even with that, it will still try to return to its base form a little, so you should over-correct the problem before setting it.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Painting a viney lass. I'm not so big on the ethereal sort scheme. Keep em fleshy, y'know.
Finecast is brittle as fuck compared to plastic or metal. Expect those ranger rifles to snap off just when you're handling them - a few of the ones on mine did.