Trying to help a friend put together something on a $1200 budget. This is what I've come up with so far. I'm not sure where I can trim any more fat off it.
Trying to help a friend put together something on a $1200 budget. This is what I've come up with so far. I'm not sure where I can trim any more fat off it.
Man, that's an unfortunately price point. If it were me, I'd suck it up, and spring for the Ryzen 5600X over the 3600X, and the 2060 Super over the 1660 Ti. Maybe I'd go from the EVGA to the Thermaltake PSU, and drop the second HDD to take the sting out? Those 4 changes shift it from $1221 to $1287. IMHO, getting the IPC boost of the 5000 series over the 3000 series, and the raytracing of the 2060 over the 1660 Ti punches way above it's weight for the extra $60 you'd be paying. But that's just me.
Edit: Alternately, dropping the 2nd HDD and going Thermaltake on the PSU gets you to $1132. Upgrading just the CPU to a 5600X is $1229. And just the GPU to a 2060 is $1190.
Trying to help a friend put together something on a $1200 budget. This is what I've come up with so far. I'm not sure where I can trim any more fat off it.
Man, that's an unfortunately price point. If it were me, I'd suck it up, and spring for the Ryzen 5600X over the 3600X, and the 2060 Super over the 1660 Ti. Maybe I'd go from the EVGA to the Thermaltake PSU, and drop the second HDD to take the sting out? Those 4 changes shift it from $1221 to $1287. IMHO, getting the IPC boost of the 5000 series over the 3000 series, and the raytracing of the 2060 over the 1660 Ti punches way above it's weight for the extra $60 you'd be paying. But that's just me.
Yeah, I'm waiting to hear back from him just how firm that $1200 limit is... but my guess is that it's pretty firm.
Supposedly even 2060s are impossible to get right now, much less a 5600
Yeah, but that's for retail where you have to compete with bots. The prebuilt market is a bit easier because they have a dedicated allocation, and as of yet, bots aren't buying complete systems and scrapping them for the valuable parts.
Trying to help a friend put together something on a $1200 budget. This is what I've come up with so far. I'm not sure where I can trim any more fat off it.
Man, that's an unfortunately price point. If it were me, I'd suck it up, and spring for the Ryzen 5600X over the 3600X, and the 2060 Super over the 1660 Ti. Maybe I'd go from the EVGA to the Thermaltake PSU, and drop the second HDD to take the sting out? Those 4 changes shift it from $1221 to $1287. IMHO, getting the IPC boost of the 5000 series over the 3000 series, and the raytracing of the 2060 over the 1660 Ti punches way above it's weight for the extra $60 you'd be paying. But that's just me.
Yeah, I'm waiting to hear back from him just how firm that $1200 limit is... but my guess is that it's pretty firm.
Everyone has a different use case but 1TB for a spinner seems awfully low capacity. I'd rather see your friend save the funds and look for something closer to even 4-8 TB on sale.
I talked him into going a bit higher (+$150) and so I swapped in a 2060 and a Ryzen 5600X. Skimmed a few bucks going from EVGA to Thermaltake PSU, and ended up at $1346.
Pretty sure the 1tb HDD will be enough for him. And if not, that's like the cheapest and easiest thing to upgrade later. Heck, I've got extra drives laying around I could probably just give him.
After the first motherboard being a total nutjob, the second motherboard getting lost in the mail, and the third motherboard having more bulging caps than not and being totally DOA, I got a tickle in the back of my brain.
Now that first motherboard had a lot of issues. Wouldn't POST reliably. AGP slot didn't work. At some point it just began always booting into the bios, never into a device. Super wonky. But it at least POSTed some of the time, and actually showed up.
So I dig it back out. I clear the CMOS. Again. For a really long time. AGP slot is still dead, but the PCI graphics card works. And it stopped always going into the BIOS. In fact it's POSTing very reliably now! And that tickle in the back of my brain is getting louder.
What if the AGP slot doesn't work, because the AGP aperture is FUBARed because of the RAM? What if I have bad/incompatible ram? I mean, I'm used to wonky ram just straight up preventing a system from POSTing in the first place... but what if? I find a dude on craigslist selling some random DDR sticks locally, and low and behold, the AGP slot began working. And the BIOS finally lists AGP 8X as a possibility. That was another thing that was weird. With the original RAM the AGP speed was capped at 4x, even though it was an 8x board.
So, sorry @Bullhead, ended up not using the awesome OCZ sticks you sent me after all. Not sure if it's the RAM or the mobo not being compatible with them. Although part of the tickle in my brain was a random Linus Tech Tips video where he's building a retro PC, and remarking that OCZ ram wasn't that durable. Allegedly they ran them at high voltages, and hid behind a lifetime warrantee if they burned out.
Anyhoo. From there I could not get WinXP to install onto a SATA SSD. Even after adding the SATA drivers to the WinXP install cd using a utility. So I installed it on a downright ancient IDE HDD I had in a junk drawer. Shocked the process didn't kill it. Then I installed Intel's Data Migration Tool (since it's an older Intel SSD) and cloned it to the SSD after getting all the SATA drivers installed.
And then WinXP just gets stuck in an infinite restart loop when it tries to boot off the SSD. So I guess I'm stuck on the HDD until I work that out.
Next up I got the Audigy 2 ZS installed, trouble free, then Doom 3, and then, voila.
Admittedly, not the best picture. It's not that green, I swear.
Got everything moved into the case. Cable management is near non-existent, and I still need to get the side panel on. Probably order an actual quantity of RAM too. Right now I only have 512 MB in there. But it works! RetroPC 2004 is complete, pretty much exactly the way I wanted it!
Great that it worked out for you.
For the future: If you are looking for PCs from the Athlon - Core 2 era, consider looking up Shuttle PCs. The advantage is, usually they come complete and are not abused like business PCs. These are small form factor PCs. They use very reliable HW - I have yet to see one during the last 20 years with bulging caps. Depending on the model they cost next to nothing. I got my two PCs for 20 - 30 euros each. Even with the seemingly low power PSU most of them can be loaded with high end hardware from their time. My Core 2 Shuttle from 2009 had a Quadcore CPU, 8GB RAM, 2x HDDs, a DVD and a GeForce 8800 GTX and later a GeForce 670 running for years (Lightening from a thunderstorm killed it unfortunately and most electronics in my house ). My Athlon XP machine had 2 HDDs, DVD and a AGP 7800GS in it. The PSU in the Athlon models can be replaced with a TFX PSU. The board uses standard plugs, except for the front headers. Board and cooling solutions is custom though. AGP Slot is inverted, this means cards cooler is facing outwards.
Installing Windows XP: I am sure you could run the SATA controller in IDE mode and thus circumvent any AHCI driver issues. There might be disk size issues as well stemming from the board or the make of the drive, I would start with lower capacity drives like 200 - 250 GB. If these work, SATA SSDs shouldn’t be an issue as well, they can also be run in IDE mode. I got one working with Windows 98 SE and an SATA to IDE adaptor.
Data migration: I use a Linux live CD and copy the entire device with DDrescue command (it has a nice progress bar, old regular dd only got one recently.) Usually I use a spare notebook and two powered USB 3.0 IDE / SATA combo adapter, so I don’t have to rely on the old system to move the data.
Cable management can be done, even with an ancient case. I acquired lots of rounded IDE cables which makes this much better endeavor. For a friends build I simply used a big PVC tube which I wedged between main board and drive cage to route cables through and I used adhesive-backed mount to keep it in place. I would recommend looking in the electronic section of your local hardware store, I often find mounting solutions which are often much cheaper than buying from specialized IT online shops (zip ties for example, adhesive hooks).
It’s okay. There is enough space for cable management. I would replace the feet with rubber feet or put some felt sticker on them -otherwise you get annoying vibrations. Thats the only issue I have with this case.
After the first motherboard being a total nutjob, the second motherboard getting lost in the mail, and the third motherboard having more bulging caps than not and being totally DOA, I got a tickle in the back of my brain.
Now that first motherboard had a lot of issues. Wouldn't POST reliably. AGP slot didn't work. At some point it just began always booting into the bios, never into a device. Super wonky. But it at least POSTed some of the time, and actually showed up.
So I dig it back out. I clear the CMOS. Again. For a really long time. AGP slot is still dead, but the PCI graphics card works. And it stopped always going into the BIOS. In fact it's POSTing very reliably now! And that tickle in the back of my brain is getting louder.
What if the AGP slot doesn't work, because the AGP aperture is FUBARed because of the RAM? What if I have bad/incompatible ram? I mean, I'm used to wonky ram just straight up preventing a system from POSTing in the first place... but what if? I find a dude on craigslist selling some random DDR sticks locally, and low and behold, the AGP slot began working. And the BIOS finally lists AGP 8X as a possibility. That was another thing that was weird. With the original RAM the AGP speed was capped at 4x, even though it was an 8x board.
So, sorry @Bullhead, ended up not using the awesome OCZ sticks you sent me after all. Not sure if it's the RAM or the mobo not being compatible with them. Although part of the tickle in my brain was a random Linus Tech Tips video where he's building a retro PC, and remarking that OCZ ram wasn't that durable. Allegedly they ran them at high voltages, and hid behind a lifetime warrantee if they burned out.
Anyhoo. From there I could not get WinXP to install onto a SATA SSD. Even after adding the SATA drivers to the WinXP install cd using a utility. So I installed it on a downright ancient IDE HDD I had in a junk drawer. Shocked the process didn't kill it. Then I installed Intel's Data Migration Tool (since it's an older Intel SSD) and cloned it to the SSD after getting all the SATA drivers installed.
And then WinXP just gets stuck in an infinite restart loop when it tries to boot off the SSD. So I guess I'm stuck on the HDD until I work that out.
Next up I got the Audigy 2 ZS installed, trouble free, then Doom 3, and then, voila.
Admittedly, not the best picture. It's not that green, I swear.
Got everything moved into the case. Cable management is near non-existent, and I still need to get the side panel on. Probably order an actual quantity of RAM too. Right now I only have 512 MB in there. But it works! RetroPC 2004 is complete, pretty much exactly the way I wanted it!
Great that it worked out for you.
For the future: If you are looking for PCs from the Athlon - Core 2 era, consider looking up Shuttle PCs. The advantage is, usually they come complete and are not abused like business PCs. These are small form factor PCs. They use very reliable HW - I have yet to see one during the last 20 years with bulging caps. Depending on the model they cost next to nothing. I got my two PCs for 20 - 30 euros each. Even with the seemingly low power PSU most of them can be loaded with high end hardware from their time. My Core 2 Shuttle from 2009 had a Quadcore CPU, 8GB RAM, 2x HDDs, a DVD and a GeForce 8800 GTX and later a GeForce 670 running for years (Lightening from a thunderstorm killed it unfortunately and most electronics in my house ). My Athlon XP machine had 2 HDDs, DVD and a AGP 7800GS in it. The PSU in the Athlon models can be replaced with a TFX PSU. The board uses standard plugs, except for the front headers. Board and cooling solutions is custom though. AGP Slot is inverted, this means cards cooler is facing outwards.
Installing Windows XP: I am sure you could run the SATA controller in IDE mode and thus circumvent any AHCI driver issues. There might be disk size issues as well stemming from the board or the make of the drive, I would start with lower capacity drives like 200 - 250 GB. If these work, SATA SSDs shouldn’t be an issue as well, they can also be run in IDE mode. I got one working with Windows 98 SE and an SATA to IDE adaptor.
Data migration: I use a Linux live CD and copy the entire device with DDrescue command (it has a nice progress bar, old regular dd only got one recently.) Usually I use a spare notebook and two powered USB 3.0 IDE / SATA combo adapter, so I don’t have to rely on the old system to move the data.
Cable management can be done, even with an ancient case. I acquired lots of rounded IDE cables which makes this much better endeavor. For a friends build I simply used a big PVC tube which I wedged between main board and drive cage to route cables through and I used adhesive-backed mount to keep it in place. I would recommend looking in the electronic section of your local hardware store, I often find mounting solutions which are often much cheaper than buying from specialized IT online shops (zip ties for example, adhesive hooks).
It’s okay. There is enough space for cable management. I would replace the feet with rubber feet or put some felt sticker on them -otherwise you get annoying vibrations. Thats the only issue I have with this case.
So, the case I'm using is a $20 cheapo that came with a SATA disc drive off Facebook Marketplace. A part of these builds is thrifting when I can. Makes me feel less guilty when I splurge on a premium part like a $100 Geforce 6800 GT. My comment about cable management was more about not even having tried, versus it being impossible. Then again, systems this old kick off a lot less heat. So I'm less worried about having a flawless jet stream through the PC.
The SATA SSD issue is a real stumper for me. The WinXP install cd cannot see the SATA SSD no matter what I do. I added the SATA drivers to the WinXP install cd, and it still didn't work. Maybe I added too many, I don't know. There is a Via SATA/RAID controller and a Promise SATA/RAID controller, and I added the SATA and RAID drivers for both to the install CD. Maybe that's too many and it just confuses things.
Another wrinkle is that only the Via SATA controller can see the disc drive, and only the Promise SATA controller can see the SSD. Go figure! These drives are both way newer than the board. 2004 versus 2012 for the SSD and who even knows for the disc drive, but probably at least after 2015. My understanding was that all the SATA versions were cross compatible with each other, but maybe I'm wrong and/or just because it's supposed to be that way, doesn't mean it is when crossing so many hardware generations.
Regardless, I got all the SATA drivers installed in WinXP and it sees the disc drive and the SSD just fine, when I boot from the IDE HDD. Same drivers I slipped onto the WinXP cd that didn't want to work during install. I don't even know anymore.
I did order a SATA to IDE adapter for the SSD, just to see if that helps trying for a fresh WinXP install to it. See what happens when that gets here in February.
I talked him into going a bit higher (+$150) and so I swapped in a 2060 and a Ryzen 5600X. Skimmed a few bucks going from EVGA to Thermaltake PSU, and ended up at $1346.
Pretty sure the 1tb HDD will be enough for him. And if not, that's like the cheapest and easiest thing to upgrade later. Heck, I've got extra drives laying around I could probably just give him.
If they can, they may want to wait a bit for a holiday and/or keeping an eye on deal sites. Ibuypower and cyberpower have sales often if money is tight. I wouldn’t be surprised to see a president’s day sale. I believe the HP Omen also did well and may have sales.
Its an Elegato 4K60 Mk. 2, in anticipation for my first 4k monitor this summer. I'm not getting a signal. My monitor is at a standard 1920x1080 resolution, and the refresh rate is set to 144k.
My monitor has an HDMI cable connected from an HDMI slot that was available, to the card's Input slot. The troubleshooting says I need the HDMI 2.0 cable that it came with...which I think I'm using but may have got it scrambled with other short cables. I see no indicator that its HDMI 2.0. Does anyone know what it looks like?
Also, what sorts of settings do I need for the device's app on my desktop?
EDIT - I went out and bought an HDMI 2.0 cable and tried that. It didn't work. It could be that my graphics card is outputting to the monitor via DisplayPort, and an HDMI connection is connected to the card. I only have one slot for DisplayPort and one for HDMI.
Best Buy's website is slowly but surely upgrading prices on the 3080s (and presumably other cards) to match 2021's pricing changes =/ Had to see that coming, but it's still sad.
I'm just baffled by upcoming Nvidia announcement. They cannot keep up with demand yet they are going to add even more products to their catalogue. I've read rumours that there is going to be a 3060 ultra. What is going on inside that company?
Best Buy's website is slowly but surely upgrading prices on the 3080s (and presumably other cards) to match 2021's pricing changes =/ Had to see that coming, but it's still sad.
If the new admin changes tariffs, how and how quickly will it affect these price changes?
Also why TF are companies not willing to wait 2 God Damn Weeks?
Well the placeholder 5800X that I ordered from Amazon when Wal-Mart went backordered on my 5950X order, is already shipping to me, well ahead of it's projected 2/19 date.
I remain dubious that Wal-Mart will ever stock 5950Xs, but I'm also not really down for a 5800X. So I guess I keep it and try and score a few more cores for a couple weeks.
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jungleroomxIt's never too many graves, it's always not enough shovelsRegistered Userregular
I'm just baffled by upcoming Nvidia announcement. They cannot keep up with demand yet they are going to add even more products to their catalogue. I've read rumours that there is going to be a 3060 ultra. What is going on inside that company?
I feel so bad for the engineering teams and order fulfillment teams at that company.
+1
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OrcaAlso known as EspressosaurusWrexRegistered Userregular
I'm just baffled by upcoming Nvidia announcement. They cannot keep up with demand yet they are going to add even more products to their catalogue. I've read rumours that there is going to be a 3060 ultra. What is going on inside that company?
I feel so bad for the engineering teams and order fulfillment teams at that company.
Why?
0
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jungleroomxIt's never too many graves, it's always not enough shovelsRegistered Userregular
I'm just baffled by upcoming Nvidia announcement. They cannot keep up with demand yet they are going to add even more products to their catalogue. I've read rumours that there is going to be a 3060 ultra. What is going on inside that company?
I feel so bad for the engineering teams and order fulfillment teams at that company.
Why?
Because the people who came up with the 3060 Ultra came up with the 3060 Ultra to compete at a price point, and are the same people who allegedly OK'd the sale of $175 million worth of cards to cryptominers direct. I.E. these people really hammer home how much corporate c-suite execs don't give a shit about customers.
Every time a new product SKU comes out it means testing, BIOS, and hardware validation. For a SKU that's probably just a binned 3060.
So now a company that can't even keep up with its own sales is having product managers compete with each other for acquisition of parts, or leaving that hellish bullshit for the AIB's?
Wow you can tell on some level the AIB partners prefer the grift Intel has going with a new mobo chipset for nearly every single iteration because the Z590 boards have a lot more visually distinct styling to them than on their AMD boards.
Almost anything from Fractal Design, Phanteks, BeQuiet, some Lian Li, or Corsair is good. There are a plethora of good choices in the $75-150 range depending on what your budget, RGB preferences, airflow needs, and aesthetic preferences are.
I like the aesthetics of Fractals, and they have been my favourite case by far to work with.
+5
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OrcaAlso known as EspressosaurusWrexRegistered Userregular
Yeah. I've had an NZXT, several by Antec, and several by Fractal. Fractal wins hands down in every category for configuration, design, airflow, and silence.
Best Buy's website is slowly but surely upgrading prices on the 3080s (and presumably other cards) to match 2021's pricing changes =/ Had to see that coming, but it's still sad.
If the new admin changes tariffs, how and how quickly will it affect these price changes?
Also why TF are companies not willing to wait 2 God Damn Weeks?
Well, there is no guarantee that the new admin will change the tariffs, so it doesn't really make sense for them to wait.
As shitty as this is, the price increases are lower than the actual tariff increase. The manufacturers are eating most of the cost by lowering their margins.
+1
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ElldrenIs a woman dammitceterum censeoRegistered Userregular
Posts
Man, that's an unfortunately price point. If it were me, I'd suck it up, and spring for the Ryzen 5600X over the 3600X, and the 2060 Super over the 1660 Ti. Maybe I'd go from the EVGA to the Thermaltake PSU, and drop the second HDD to take the sting out? Those 4 changes shift it from $1221 to $1287. IMHO, getting the IPC boost of the 5000 series over the 3000 series, and the raytracing of the 2060 over the 1660 Ti punches way above it's weight for the extra $60 you'd be paying. But that's just me.
Edit: Alternately, dropping the 2nd HDD and going Thermaltake on the PSU gets you to $1132. Upgrading just the CPU to a 5600X is $1229. And just the GPU to a 2060 is $1190.
Yeah, I'm waiting to hear back from him just how firm that $1200 limit is... but my guess is that it's pretty firm.
Avoid Dell, they are a plague. They will absolutely scam you.
Yeah, but that's for retail where you have to compete with bots. The prebuilt market is a bit easier because they have a dedicated allocation, and as of yet, bots aren't buying complete systems and scrapping them for the valuable parts.
Everyone has a different use case but 1TB for a spinner seems awfully low capacity. I'd rather see your friend save the funds and look for something closer to even 4-8 TB on sale.
I think the other custom builder is OriginPC
Pretty sure the 1tb HDD will be enough for him. And if not, that's like the cheapest and easiest thing to upgrade later. Heck, I've got extra drives laying around I could probably just give him.
Great that it worked out for you.
For the future: If you are looking for PCs from the Athlon - Core 2 era, consider looking up Shuttle PCs. The advantage is, usually they come complete and are not abused like business PCs. These are small form factor PCs. They use very reliable HW - I have yet to see one during the last 20 years with bulging caps. Depending on the model they cost next to nothing. I got my two PCs for 20 - 30 euros each. Even with the seemingly low power PSU most of them can be loaded with high end hardware from their time. My Core 2 Shuttle from 2009 had a Quadcore CPU, 8GB RAM, 2x HDDs, a DVD and a GeForce 8800 GTX and later a GeForce 670 running for years (Lightening from a thunderstorm killed it unfortunately and most electronics in my house
Installing Windows XP: I am sure you could run the SATA controller in IDE mode and thus circumvent any AHCI driver issues. There might be disk size issues as well stemming from the board or the make of the drive, I would start with lower capacity drives like 200 - 250 GB. If these work, SATA SSDs shouldn’t be an issue as well, they can also be run in IDE mode. I got one working with Windows 98 SE and an SATA to IDE adaptor.
Data migration: I use a Linux live CD and copy the entire device with DDrescue command (it has a nice progress bar, old regular dd only got one recently.) Usually I use a spare notebook and two powered USB 3.0 IDE / SATA combo adapter, so I don’t have to rely on the old system to move the data.
Cable management can be done, even with an ancient case. I acquired lots of rounded IDE cables which makes this much better endeavor. For a friends build I simply used a big PVC tube which I wedged between main board and drive cage to route cables through and I used adhesive-backed mount to keep it in place. I would recommend looking in the electronic section of your local hardware store, I often find mounting solutions which are often much cheaper than buying from specialized IT online shops (zip ties for example, adhesive hooks).
If you don’t want to spend that much money but want a nicer case, you can’t get cheaper than this:
https://www.amazon.de/Sharkoon-VS4-V-PC-Gehäuse-USB-schwarz/dp/B00N0W2R9W/ref=asc_df_B00N0W2R9W/?tag=googshopde-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310491639325&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5745938340558854076&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1000973&hvtargid=pla-349502644691&psc=1&th=1&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=59900935617&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=310491639325&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5745938340558854076&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1000973&hvtargid=pla-349502644691
It’s okay. There is enough space for cable management. I would replace the feet with rubber feet or put some felt sticker on them -otherwise you get annoying vibrations. Thats the only issue I have with this case.
So, the case I'm using is a $20 cheapo that came with a SATA disc drive off Facebook Marketplace. A part of these builds is thrifting when I can. Makes me feel less guilty when I splurge on a premium part like a $100 Geforce 6800 GT. My comment about cable management was more about not even having tried, versus it being impossible. Then again, systems this old kick off a lot less heat. So I'm less worried about having a flawless jet stream through the PC.
The SATA SSD issue is a real stumper for me. The WinXP install cd cannot see the SATA SSD no matter what I do. I added the SATA drivers to the WinXP install cd, and it still didn't work. Maybe I added too many, I don't know. There is a Via SATA/RAID controller and a Promise SATA/RAID controller, and I added the SATA and RAID drivers for both to the install CD. Maybe that's too many and it just confuses things.
Another wrinkle is that only the Via SATA controller can see the disc drive, and only the Promise SATA controller can see the SSD. Go figure! These drives are both way newer than the board. 2004 versus 2012 for the SSD and who even knows for the disc drive, but probably at least after 2015. My understanding was that all the SATA versions were cross compatible with each other, but maybe I'm wrong and/or just because it's supposed to be that way, doesn't mean it is when crossing so many hardware generations.
Regardless, I got all the SATA drivers installed in WinXP and it sees the disc drive and the SSD just fine, when I boot from the IDE HDD. Same drivers I slipped onto the WinXP cd that didn't want to work during install. I don't even know anymore.
I did order a SATA to IDE adapter for the SSD, just to see if that helps trying for a fresh WinXP install to it. See what happens when that gets here in February.
If they can, they may want to wait a bit for a holiday and/or keeping an eye on deal sites. Ibuypower and cyberpower have sales often if money is tight. I wouldn’t be surprised to see a president’s day sale. I believe the HP Omen also did well and may have sales.
Its an Elegato 4K60 Mk. 2, in anticipation for my first 4k monitor this summer. I'm not getting a signal. My monitor is at a standard 1920x1080 resolution, and the refresh rate is set to 144k.
My monitor has an HDMI cable connected from an HDMI slot that was available, to the card's Input slot. The troubleshooting says I need the HDMI 2.0 cable that it came with...which I think I'm using but may have got it scrambled with other short cables. I see no indicator that its HDMI 2.0. Does anyone know what it looks like?
Also, what sorts of settings do I need for the device's app on my desktop?
EDIT - I went out and bought an HDMI 2.0 cable and tried that. It didn't work. It could be that my graphics card is outputting to the monitor via DisplayPort, and an HDMI connection is connected to the card. I only have one slot for DisplayPort and one for HDMI.
I'm in the exact inverse situation - I got my 3080, put it in my old machine until the rest of the stuff for my new machine arrives.
Inquisitor77: Rius, you are Sisyphus and melee Wizard is your boulder
Tube: This must be what it felt like to be an Iraqi when Saddam was killed
Bookish Stickers - Mrs. Rius' Etsy shop with bumper stickers and vinyl decals.
https://slickdeals.net/deals/desktop/
If the new admin changes tariffs, how and how quickly will it affect these price changes?
Also why TF are companies not willing to wait 2 God Damn Weeks?
I just use MSI afterburner, since I'm using it for the downvolt/OC anyway
Afterburner with RivaTuner has been the my standard for years.
I ended up with Argus Monitor. Afterburner didn't scale with my 4K display well.
I remain dubious that Wal-Mart will ever stock 5950Xs, but I'm also not really down for a 5800X. So I guess I keep it and try and score a few more cores for a couple weeks.
I feel so bad for the engineering teams and order fulfillment teams at that company.
Why?
Because the people who came up with the 3060 Ultra came up with the 3060 Ultra to compete at a price point, and are the same people who allegedly OK'd the sale of $175 million worth of cards to cryptominers direct. I.E. these people really hammer home how much corporate c-suite execs don't give a shit about customers.
Every time a new product SKU comes out it means testing, BIOS, and hardware validation. For a SKU that's probably just a binned 3060.
So now a company that can't even keep up with its own sales is having product managers compete with each other for acquisition of parts, or leaving that hellish bullshit for the AIB's?
Whoops. That said, I did some jiggering and made it fit!
...kinda.
So I guess I’m in the market for a new case? Any recommendations?
Well, there is no guarantee that the new admin will change the tariffs, so it doesn't really make sense for them to wait.
As shitty as this is, the price increases are lower than the actual tariff increase. The manufacturers are eating most of the cost by lowering their margins.
Just look at that chonky boi