The secret is you don't have to get a super exact ratio every time, no one is going to notice if your red:brown is a little off on one model compared to another, I have a white tile I use for mixing so I just glob a couple of drops of paint on there and keep adding till I get a colour that looks like what I want, you don't really need precise measurements for this sort of thing.
This. Over and over for eternity.
I was super scared of mixing for decades. Then I got 12 paints from the Scale artist acrylic kickstarter and had the wild idea to paint a mini using just them. It was an eye-opening experience. It's also fun to discover little color 'hacks' as you play around: like there's 3 paints I have discovered are pretty much all I ever need when mixing up highlights for any other color (none of them are white).
I painted up a few swooping hawks about 4 or 5 years after a test model that only used handmixed greys on it and afterwards I couldn't tell which one was the odd one out. Of course those greys were only pure black and white, so only two colours but it really is doable.
Regarding the highlighting, my orc BB team uses rotting flesh for mixing the highlights for orange, blue, and green. It worked pretty well for the not as squeaky clean look of the armour and for orc skin anyway.
What are your highlighting colours? Light brown, light warm grey, light cold grey? Or something less obvious?
honovere on
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-Loki-Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining.Registered Userregular
I find that mixing shades is kind of like that thing with your brain where if the first and last letter of a word are in the right place your brin automatically reads the word correctly.
If the base and final highlight are the same, you probably won’t tell the shades being different between them.
Though I prefer to not mix these days because I’m lazy.
Yeah I used to mix a lot of custom colours. These days I use as many straight just because I found it too annoying to keep mixing up new batches. Also I tend to airbrush a lot which means I don't have to worry about mixes as much. Also I use more glazes to colour correct.
Has anyone else gotten really poor results with Corax White rattle can base sprays? Really thick detail destroying layers with a lot of bubbling and inconsistent texture.
They are notoriously terrible. practically a texture paint every time I have attempted to use one.
I found much better results starting from a pale grey primer/spray and layering up to white
Has anyone else gotten really poor results with Corax White rattle can base sprays? Really thick detail destroying layers with a lot of bubbling and inconsistent texture.
They are notoriously terrible. practically a texture paint every time I have attempted to use one.
I found much better results starting from a pale grey primer/spray and layering up to white
Yeah usually if I need a bright white Ill airbrush it but that wasnt an option here. The corax white rattle is basically stucco.
Ended using Grey Seer --> Celestila --> Ulthuan --> white scar
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VanguardBut now the dream is over. And the insect is awake.Registered User, __BANNED USERSregular
Painted this between Saturday and today
Gotta do the rims and a few touch ups, but these feel done
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
The secret is you don't have to get a super exact ratio every time, no one is going to notice if your red:brown is a little off on one model compared to another, I have a white tile I use for mixing so I just glob a couple of drops of paint on there and keep adding till I get a colour that looks like what I want, you don't really need precise measurements for this sort of thing.
This. Over and over for eternity.
I was super scared of mixing for decades. Then I got 12 paints from the Scale artist acrylic kickstarter and had the wild idea to paint a mini using just them. It was an eye-opening experience. It's also fun to discover little color 'hacks' as you play around: like there's 3 paints I have discovered are pretty much all I ever need when mixing up highlights for any other color (none of them are white).
A friend of mine who is a schoolteacher brought up colors and theory this morning (mostly to shit on Indigo as a concept that's still taught), which made me want to ask: If I wanted to get a basic-but-good CMY set of paints to start mixing colors, what would you recommend? I'd rather not break the bank, but do want to get something with decent quality.
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
So thanks to a generous gift as part of the Secret Santa, going to get a color mini from Hero Forge. Here's what the render shows. I'm interested to see how it turns out in reality and what kind of touch up I'll have to do, beyond a wash.
So my mini came in. Overall they've gotten better since I got my first one in the beta. The spots came out very nicely which makes me happy as they would have been the hardest to touch up.
One thing is for sure though, the metal filament just can't do real metal justice. The gold and brass are just a pale yellow. Overall though, I think with just a bit of minor touch up, a wash, and some varnish this mini will really pop.
-Loki-Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining.Registered Userregular
Just the other night I was saying to the missus I wanted to start painting at the dining room table so it was less lonely/boring, but I needed a decent paint caddy.
Wow. That thing fits the bill and it supremely classy looking as well. Bookmarked for later.
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VanguardBut now the dream is over. And the insect is awake.Registered User, __BANNED USERSregular
I’ve had all of the bits to do this conversion since 2017 - guess now was the time to finally do it
I hate the daemon prince mode so much - this is only marginally better
H3KnucklesBut we decide which is rightand which is an illusion.Registered Userregular
There's this pic that's among the top results if you google "Daemon Prince of Nurgle", and it looks super cool:
...but it doesn't read as a Chaos Marine that ascended at all. It just looks like something that was always a daemon.
The details from that era of plastic chaos models can get really squishy, to an almost cartoonish degree. There's certain design elements on the DP, and some other old chaos models (hello berserkers!) that just don't look like quality GW casts.
The DP also gets an extra helping of dislike because the metal model it replaced was AWESOME.
McGibs on
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-Loki-Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining.Registered Userregular
So in a hypothetical scenario in which I forgot to clean out my airbrush last night, nail polish remover on a qtip should be good so long as I dont get it on rubber bits right?
So in a hypothetical scenario in which I forgot to clean out my airbrush last night, nail polish remover on a qtip should be good so long as I dont get it on rubber bits right?
Yep! If I forget to clean mine, a full tear down and soak in acetone followed by a thorough pipe clean and poke sees it right. One hot tip that's been super helpful to me is to just shoot some window cleaner through the brush after you're done painting and actually leave some in the cup. It cleans it out and keeps it moist solid doesn't seize up.
I'm still painting Raptors.
Though we've just had a quarantine outbreak of UK flavour Covid are are going into a short lockdown, so it's entirely possible that the event I've been painting my ass off for for a month and a half might be cancelled!
I've been painting pretty quickly this year, but taken no photos.
Except the gross lad I painted last night.
Tri-Optimum reminds you that there are only one-hundred-sixty-three shopping days until Christmas. Just 1 extra work cycle twice a week will give you the spending money you need to make this holiday a very special one.
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
I'm inking dice right now, and it's a process. Mad props to the folks who make custom dice, polish and ink them. They aren't selling them for enough money.
Painted up a beholder zombie. Didn't thin the paints enough for the eye, so it has kind of a chalky look to it, which I think kind of works for an undead beholder.
And since I had some beholder parts left over, I stole one of its eyebeams for my lizardfolk wizard.
see317 on
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INeedNoSaltwith blood on my teethRegistered Userregular
edited February 2021
I've been improving a little
My free hand could use some work
Also been making my bloody undead:
INeedNoSalt on
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VanguardBut now the dream is over. And the insect is awake.Registered User, __BANNED USERSregular
Glacial columns for my winter table, all done this morning
Tomorrow’s project is snowy forests.
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-Loki-Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining.Registered Userregular
Last night I finally finished my Hybrid squad leader. Then realised I haven’t highlighted the leather strap on his wrist, his eyes or the spikey but on the hilt of the sword. Ah well, small details. I’ll do them later but he’s done.
Characters done! Just got to weather the piss out of my Vehicles and then the army is complete ... So naturally I want to do a display board and some custom objectives and and and ...
Thanks! Its actually my go to fancy sword recipe and is dead easy (which is why I do it). It is:
Basecoat kabalite green.
Glaze down the middle on one side and the two ends on the other with Black Templar
Highlight the opposite sides with watered down sybarite green. At this point you should kind have 3 tones going on which is the start of the effect.
Then I just start evening out the transition with watered down kabalite or sybarite or Black.
Final step is edge highlighting with white and then a little bit of watered down white at the tip and in the centre of the sybarite to just make it look even shinier.
I put models on Instagram now: asher_paints
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VanguardBut now the dream is over. And the insect is awake.Registered User, __BANNED USERSregular
Finished some snowy woods too - group shot of the terrain I made this weekend
Any tips on reposing Nolzur's minis?
I've got a young red dragon who's wings are almost touching behind the back, I'd like to bend them out a bit to give a bit more painting space. I'd like to know if there's any way to bend them out a bit without damaging the mini too much.
Would a heat gun/hair dryer get it malleable enough for a minor reposing? Or is this going to require a full on cut/greenstuff patch job?
They're soft plastic yeah? A heat gun should work. Alternatively try immersing it in hot water and seeing if that makes it more malleable before breaking out the clippers.
Asher on
I put models on Instagram now: asher_paints
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
They're soft plastic yeah? A heat gun should work. Alternatively try immersing it in hot water and seeing if that makes it more malleable before breaking out the clippers.
Heat in near-boiling water for a minute, then repose, then dunk in ice water for several minutes to re-set the plastic in the new position.
Posts
This. Over and over for eternity.
I was super scared of mixing for decades. Then I got 12 paints from the Scale artist acrylic kickstarter and had the wild idea to paint a mini using just them. It was an eye-opening experience. It's also fun to discover little color 'hacks' as you play around: like there's 3 paints I have discovered are pretty much all I ever need when mixing up highlights for any other color (none of them are white).
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Regarding the highlighting, my orc BB team uses rotting flesh for mixing the highlights for orange, blue, and green. It worked pretty well for the not as squeaky clean look of the armour and for orc skin anyway.
What are your highlighting colours? Light brown, light warm grey, light cold grey? Or something less obvious?
If the base and final highlight are the same, you probably won’t tell the shades being different between them.
Though I prefer to not mix these days because I’m lazy.
Not sure what to do with the lenses and the plasma vents, but otherwise this guy came out OK.
"And this is his sofa, is it?" said Arthur.
They are notoriously terrible. practically a texture paint every time I have attempted to use one.
I found much better results starting from a pale grey primer/spray and layering up to white
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
Yeah usually if I need a bright white Ill airbrush it but that wasnt an option here. The corax white rattle is basically stucco.
Ended using Grey Seer --> Celestila --> Ulthuan --> white scar
Painted this between Saturday and today
Gotta do the rims and a few touch ups, but these feel done
A friend of mine who is a schoolteacher brought up colors and theory this morning (mostly to shit on Indigo as a concept that's still taught), which made me want to ask: If I wanted to get a basic-but-good CMY set of paints to start mixing colors, what would you recommend? I'd rather not break the bank, but do want to get something with decent quality.
So my mini came in. Overall they've gotten better since I got my first one in the beta. The spots came out very nicely which makes me happy as they would have been the hardest to touch up.
One thing is for sure though, the metal filament just can't do real metal justice. The gold and brass are just a pale yellow. Overall though, I think with just a bit of minor touch up, a wash, and some varnish this mini will really pop.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Sliverware trays
The army painter wet palette I got has a built in brush tray and should fit in a drawer 😉
MWO: Adamski
Paint Case 2.0
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Wow. That thing fits the bill and it supremely classy looking as well. Bookmarked for later.
I’ve had all of the bits to do this conversion since 2017 - guess now was the time to finally do it
I hate the daemon prince mode so much - this is only marginally better
...but it doesn't read as a Chaos Marine that ascended at all. It just looks like something that was always a daemon.
I think it’s because the aesthetic really only speaks to like, Khorne and not as much the other chaos gods
It also has a lot of very visible seams
The DP also gets an extra helping of dislike because the metal model it replaced was AWESOME.
There are other Chaos gods?
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Idk if it helps your specific quandry, but the GW balrog model is the same size base as a demon print and has wings and a sword
I’m happy with what I made - if I ever branch out into other chaos gods, I’ll take a look
Yep! If I forget to clean mine, a full tear down and soak in acetone followed by a thorough pipe clean and poke sees it right. One hot tip that's been super helpful to me is to just shoot some window cleaner through the brush after you're done painting and actually leave some in the cup. It cleans it out and keeps it moist solid doesn't seize up.
I'm still painting Raptors.
Though we've just had a quarantine outbreak of UK flavour Covid are are going into a short lockdown, so it's entirely possible that the event I've been painting my ass off for for a month and a half might be cancelled!
Except the gross lad I painted last night.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Painted up a beholder zombie. Didn't thin the paints enough for the eye, so it has kind of a chalky look to it, which I think kind of works for an undead beholder.
And since I had some beholder parts left over, I stole one of its eyebeams for my lizardfolk wizard.
Also been making my bloody undead:
Glacial columns for my winter table, all done this morning
Tomorrow’s project is snowy forests.
Basecoat kabalite green.
Glaze down the middle on one side and the two ends on the other with Black Templar
Highlight the opposite sides with watered down sybarite green. At this point you should kind have 3 tones going on which is the start of the effect.
Then I just start evening out the transition with watered down kabalite or sybarite or Black.
Final step is edge highlighting with white and then a little bit of watered down white at the tip and in the centre of the sybarite to just make it look even shinier.
Finished some snowy woods too - group shot of the terrain I made this weekend
I've got a young red dragon who's wings are almost touching behind the back, I'd like to bend them out a bit to give a bit more painting space. I'd like to know if there's any way to bend them out a bit without damaging the mini too much.
Would a heat gun/hair dryer get it malleable enough for a minor reposing? Or is this going to require a full on cut/greenstuff patch job?
Heat in near-boiling water for a minute, then repose, then dunk in ice water for several minutes to re-set the plastic in the new position.