Dear Fiat Chrysler Automotive: go fuck yourselves.
There's no way it's unintentional that the flange on that bumper support is right in the way of draining the radiator. A quarter inch difference and it wouldn't send antifreeze all over the place.
That's definitely something the techs noticed in preproduction, but the tooling had already been created and they weren't going to spend millions of dollars to fix it.
That's definitely something the techs noticed in preproduction, but the tooling had already been created and they weren't going to spend millions of dollars to fix it.
Yup. Assume that fluid was only going to be changed on average 3 times over the lifespan of the car, and probably at least once at the dealership who can deal with it, and it's not a problem as far as they are concerned.
Besides the coolant stupidity, the job was surprisingly easy. Took about 5 hours from start to finish. The pump impeller had made a little bit of contact with the block leaving a slight score in the aluminum maybe a 32nd of an inch deep but other than that no damage, and that doesn't affect coolant flow or a seal or anything so it was no big deal.
The VW got really loud today on the way to work. Like, hilariously loud. Pulse jet loud. Cruising along at 60 you couldn't tell but once you got on the gas it got nice and throaty. I figured a weld had split or the resonator had come apart. Turns out when every part of your exhaust is nice high quality stainless steel, except for the clamps that hold the connecting band on, only one part of your exhaust fails.
There are supposed to be two of those C-looking things. They're also not supposed to look like a C. They're also supposed to have bolts in them. That sleeve worked its way onto just one section of the pipe letting them separate, basically giving me a poor man's suitcase delete.
I already had a nice $700 Borla upgrade picked out before discovering that all I needed was a $12 clamp...
matt has a problem on
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Red Raevynbecause I only take Bubble BathsRegistered Userregular
Reminds me of when we drove my 88 Jetta GLi from PA to WA, and just after the Ohio border the muffler fell off. We wore earplugs for most of the rest of the trip, well until the Idaho/WA border where it burned a hole in the head between cylinders 3 & 4 and started making very different noises.
What's your mileage up to on that? That reminds me that I clicked on the start of this or maybe an SE car thread (months ago) and saw a post from you doing a big job on the GTi and wanted to ask you how your oil consumption has been with that car, and if you found anything that reduced it. The way our '07 GTI consumes oil has always bothered me, even after seeing many references (including the manuals) to some consumption being normal. I saw a drop from a quart every 500-1000 miles (!) when I switched to the OEM Pentosin, but it's still a quart per I'm not sure, 1500 or maybe 2000 miles.
It's just over 213,000 now. It goes through about a quart every 1500 too, I know it has a leak on the right side of the engine though, I just can't find it. Previously it was leaking from the oil filter housing assembly, that was the big job, having to take the front off the car to replace it. I've been using 0w40 Synthoil Energy in it for about 10 years now, the dealership used 5w40 Castrol before then when I'd take it in.
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
edited April 2021
Wooo the Hyundai pickup finally dropped. For my needs, I love it. I'm hoping to buy sometime around this time next year, so it'll be see how it and the Maverick stack up.
Without a passthru to the cab, a 4 foot bed is pretty restrictive. It's less functional than if it were an SUV, since it can't be used in the rain for transport. If it's going up against other light trucks, the Ridgeline, Ranger, Frontier and Canyon all start with a 5 foot bed.
It feels like it's going for the niche Subaru has tried to create and failed with both the BRAT and Baja.
Give me a 6 or 8 foot bed with a two seat cab at that ride height and I'd be all over it though. An actual light truck.
Without a passthru to the cab, a 4 foot bed is pretty restrictive. It's less functional than if it were an SUV, since it can't be used in the rain for transport. If it's going up against other light trucks, the Ridgeline, Ranger, Frontier and Canyon all start with a 5 foot bed.
It feels like it's going for the niche Subaru has tried to create and failed with both the BRAT and Baja.
Give me a 6 or 8 foot bed with a two seat cab at that ride height and I'd be all over it though. An actual light truck.
The ridgeline is right out, it will probably be 10k-15K more expensive for similar equipment. Ranger probably as well, though the ranger does dip down on its basemodels. In my opinion though, a baseline Hyundai is a much better place to be than a Ford these days.
I think if they can keep the base models in the mid 20ks, like 25k, it'll do well. Its near impossible to find a good base model in the domestics (I've tried), and even then to get 4x4 your jumping up to 30k minimum, probably more like 32k-35k.
Now I'm speaking for my personal use case, but I'm ok with losing out on having covered storage by being able to put taller objects in the back and not have to worry about fighting with a hatch opening. A full back seat will let me put most things I carry around that need covered just fine, and the in bed trunk will help too.
My hope is I can get the turbo 2.5 in AWD for 30k or less. with one of those U-shaped bed extenders to get it out to 5ft I'll probably be covered for like 99% of the things I haul (or currently cant haul) around on a regular basis, and with the Turbo 2.5 I can tow whatever else I need to.I do wish there would be a crew cab suicide door model that did lengthen the bed a bit. Overall though it fits my truck needs.
Edit: Especially as it will most likely be coming with a 100k/10y warranty. Thats a nice selling point too.
This is a mod I've wanted to do for a while, I just never got around to ordering the part. For some unknown reason, the 2010 RAM doesn't have a cabin air filter. Despite sharing a system with a few other Dodge models that do have one. Drive down a dusty road and run external air, and you're eating dust constantly.
This rectangle is where the filter should go. But the opening is sealed. The louver up top is what opens and closes for recirculated/external air.
20 seconds with a razor knife and the very thin plastic is removed.
Filter in, a Dodge part #, made for Dodge vehicles.
And the cover, also a Dodge part #, made for this specific system.
Like, why manufacture a box that doesn't have a service door for a filter... Just omit a filter if you want to be that cheap and/or keep your perceived maintenance costs lower...
Between you and me, Peggy, I smoked this Juul and it did UNTHINKABLE things to my mind and body...
That reminds me of my Golf R - in the US they lock the center console shut. It's a fairly trival mod to remove that locking piece and have a fully functioning center console to store stuff in. Mind bogglingly stupid.
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AbsoluteZeroThe new film by Quentin KoopantinoRegistered Userregular
edited May 2021
Hello car people.
A Minnesota pot hole has eaten another low profile tire on my car. This is the 4th time this has happened. Is it possible to switch over to smaller diameter wheels/rims with taller sidewall tires? Or would that cause problems?
A Minnesota pot hole has eaten another low profile tire on my car. This is the 4th time this has happened. Is it possible to switch over to smaller diameter wheels/rims with taller sidewall tires? Or would that cause problems?
As long as they can clear your brakes. What car/package?
A Minnesota pot hole has eaten another low profile tire on my car. This is the 4th time this has happened. Is it possible to switch over to smaller diameter wheels/rims with taller sidewall tires? Or would that cause problems?
You can check on Tire Rack to see if they have a -1 (one size down) wheel and tire package that fits your car. Many people size down for winter tires so unless you car has a big brake option there should be a wide range of wheels you can choose from.
A Minnesota pot hole has eaten another low profile tire on my car. This is the 4th time this has happened. Is it possible to switch over to smaller diameter wheels/rims with taller sidewall tires? Or would that cause problems?
It's possible, but it depends on the wheel's diameter and offset, and whether or not the different size would interfere with the brake hardware. In a lot of cases, you can safely drop sizes to some other factory size** as a good rule of thumb. Googling appropriate wheel sizes for your year, make, model, and sub-model should yield results.
** Sometimes vehicle's have performance sub-models that have larger wheels both for aesthetics, AND to accommodate beefy brakes, so it's not ALWAYS safe to drop wheel sizes. Best to google, check with the dealer on acceptable sizes, or an aftermarket wheel/tire store.
Between you and me, Peggy, I smoked this Juul and it did UNTHINKABLE things to my mind and body...
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AbsoluteZeroThe new film by Quentin KoopantinoRegistered Userregular
A Minnesota pot hole has eaten another low profile tire on my car. This is the 4th time this has happened. Is it possible to switch over to smaller diameter wheels/rims with taller sidewall tires? Or would that cause problems?
As long as they can clear your brakes. What car/package?
2016 Chevy Impala LTZ 2LZ, 20" wheels/rims.
If I dropped down to 19" wheel would that be sufficient to save me from pot holes eating the tires? Or is that unlikely to be worth the hassle?
A Minnesota pot hole has eaten another low profile tire on my car. This is the 4th time this has happened. Is it possible to switch over to smaller diameter wheels/rims with taller sidewall tires? Or would that cause problems?
As long as they can clear your brakes. What car/package?
2016 Chevy Impala LTZ 2LZ, 20" wheels/rims.
If I dropped down to 19" wheel would that be sufficient to save me from pot holes eating the tires? Or is that unlikely to be worth the hassle?
Also would this screw up the TPMS?
Here's a TireRack link to your make/model - it looks like they offer sizes down to 18" that are compatible. As far as TPMS goes, when you purchase the tires/wheels from somewhere like TR they can bundle new ones, or most places are also able to remove the ones from your current wheels and move them to the new ones.
A Minnesota pot hole has eaten another low profile tire on my car. This is the 4th time this has happened. Is it possible to switch over to smaller diameter wheels/rims with taller sidewall tires? Or would that cause problems?
As long as they can clear your brakes. What car/package?
2016 Chevy Impala LTZ 2LZ, 20" wheels/rims.
If I dropped down to 19" wheel would that be sufficient to save me from pot holes eating the tires? Or is that unlikely to be worth the hassle?
Also would this screw up the TPMS?
Tire Rack shows you can drop all the way down to a 17" wheel. I'd go for the middle ground of 18" which will also give you more options for tire choices and not look comically small like a 17" would.
You can either buy new TPMS sensors or you can have the ones from the 20" wheels swapped over to the new wheels. New sensors will run around $200 but swapping them from the old to new wheels shouldn't cost more than $40-60 and will likely be factored into the cost of mounting and balancing the wheels. In that case you could buy the wheels from Tire Rack and the tires locally, or both from Tire Rack, request they not be mounted and balanced by them, and then have them mounted and balanced by a local tire shop once they arrive (Tire Rack will even ship them to a place of your choice which I'd recommend doing unless you can fit everything in your car).
Whelp sold my WRX today. I loved the car and it was fun to drive but just didn't make sense to have three cars for two full time work at home adults.
Drove it for 3.5 years and 15000 miles and sold it for $1500 less than I paid, so I'd say that was pretty damn good depreciation. Paid off 2/3 of the remaining balance on the Disco and will have the truck paid off in just a couple months with the extra $500 a month of no WRX insurance or payments.
It's bittersweet selling a car that I enjoyed, but it was just a car and the money will let me get whatever I want if it turns out I do need a car in six months to a year. All indications are that I'll stay WfH full time (or in office once / twice a month, and work same place as my wife) even post-COVID and there is always the GTO or Uber or the bus or my bike in a pinch.
I am a bit nervous that the buyer is getting my car for his teenage son, I think as a graduation present. 18ish year olds don't need modified 300 whp rally cars...but that's on them. I sure as hell wouldn't let a teenage boy drive that car even with the good reputation of Subaru safety.
I dread to think what the insurance would be for an 18yo in that car!
It is the #1 most ticketed car. As a 38 year old with perfect driving record I paid $130 / month.
Ironically my new backp car, my wifes 2005 GTO is the #2 most ticketed car but we have the historic (15+ years) and low driven bonuses and only pay $80 / month for full coverage.
But yeah if this kid is named on the insurance it's an easy $200, probably $300 or more if he has even one point, per month.
A Minnesota pot hole has eaten another low profile tire on my car. This is the 4th time this has happened. Is it possible to switch over to smaller diameter wheels/rims with taller sidewall tires? Or would that cause problems?
As long as they can clear your brakes. What car/package?
2016 Chevy Impala LTZ 2LZ, 20" wheels/rims.
If I dropped down to 19" wheel would that be sufficient to save me from pot holes eating the tires? Or is that unlikely to be worth the hassle?
Also would this screw up the TPMS?
The base Impala that year had an 18” wheel, which would fit your car perfectly. You will give up some handling and looks, but probably save on pothole damage. I would search Craigslist, Facebook marketplace, and local junkyards for somebody getting rid of the wheels from their LS or LT Impala. Bonus, they will likely have matching TPMS sensors since its a factory wheel, unless the owner is transferring them to a new wheel. A tire shop can pair the new sensors to the car, or you can buy the tool online for like $20.
Edit: in fact, you could probably trade with somebody directly for free, or a few bucks cash on their end. Plenty of people looking to upgrade to fancy wheels.
I dread to think what the insurance would be for an 18yo in that car!
It is the #1 most ticketed car. As a 38 year old with perfect driving record I paid $130 / month.
Ironically my new backp car, my wifes 2005 GTO is the #2 most ticketed car but we have the historic (15+ years) and low driven bonuses and only pay $80 / month for full coverage.
But yeah if this kid is named on the insurance it's an easy $200, probably $300 or more if he has even one point, per month.
wtf, that's more than I pay for full coverage on my Infiniti! That's bonkers!
No, even the base F-150 Lightning can tow 7,700 pounds and haul 2,000 pounds in the bed. It still makes 775 pound-feet of torque, and it still costs just under $40,000. Pay a bit more and you can get the extended range battery that's projected to go 300 miles on a charge and pull 10,000 pounds.
Because there's no internal-combustion powerplant slung between the front fenders, engineers have been able to convert this space into a very useful, lockable, shockingly large weather-tight storage area. The Lightning's front trunk, or Mega Power Frunk in Ford's amusing parlance, can support 400 pounds and clocks in at 400 liters (about 14 cubic feet). That makes it roughly one cube larger than the trunk of a Toyota Corolla sedan. Accordingly, it's roomy enough to hold eight satchels of premixed concrete, two golf bags or plenty of other stuff.
...
Along with innumerable forms of competitive sportsball, tailgating is one of America's favorite pastimes, and future Lightning owners will be able to host two parties at once with one truck. The bed, which is identical to other F-150s, remains a great place for a traditional outdoor gathering. But the frunk is wonderful, too: This space is fitted with power ports aplenty -- four 120-volt household sockets and two USB outlets -- to keep the party going.
...
In addition to the Mega Power Frunk, there's lots to talk about with the F-150 Lightning, from its Intelligent Backup Power system, which can run your entire home during a blackout, to dozens of other little niceties that we detail in an up-close look at this all-electric pickup.
So $40k for the 230 mile range one, mid-$50k for the 300 mile range one. Ranges are obviously without towing, etc, so ranges when hauling will be lower, so this is probably more targeting the working segment.
The real standout charging feature is exclusive to the versions of the F-150 Lightning powered by the extended range battery: Ford is including a new 80-amp home charging station that not only fully charges the F-150 Lightning in eight hours but allows owners to easily power their entire home for around three days in the event of an electricity outage.
And perhaps the most important thing for the main market: It just looks like a fucking truck. Ford's swinging for the fences with this and I truly hope they succeed.
e: And Ford is still eligible for the full $7500 tax break on EVs, too.
No, even the base F-150 Lightning can tow 7,700 pounds and haul 2,000 pounds in the bed. It still makes 775 pound-feet of torque, and it still costs just under $40,000. Pay a bit more and you can get the extended range battery that's projected to go 300 miles on a charge and pull 10,000 pounds.
Because there's no internal-combustion powerplant slung between the front fenders, engineers have been able to convert this space into a very useful, lockable, shockingly large weather-tight storage area. The Lightning's front trunk, or Mega Power Frunk in Ford's amusing parlance, can support 400 pounds and clocks in at 400 liters (about 14 cubic feet). That makes it roughly one cube larger than the trunk of a Toyota Corolla sedan. Accordingly, it's roomy enough to hold eight satchels of premixed concrete, two golf bags or plenty of other stuff.
...
Along with innumerable forms of competitive sportsball, tailgating is one of America's favorite pastimes, and future Lightning owners will be able to host two parties at once with one truck. The bed, which is identical to other F-150s, remains a great place for a traditional outdoor gathering. But the frunk is wonderful, too: This space is fitted with power ports aplenty -- four 120-volt household sockets and two USB outlets -- to keep the party going.
...
In addition to the Mega Power Frunk, there's lots to talk about with the F-150 Lightning, from its Intelligent Backup Power system, which can run your entire home during a blackout, to dozens of other little niceties that we detail in an up-close look at this all-electric pickup.
So $40k for the 230 mile range one, mid-$50k for the 300 mile range one. Ranges are obviously without towing, etc, so ranges when hauling will be lower, so this is probably more targeting the working segment.
The real standout charging feature is exclusive to the versions of the F-150 Lightning powered by the extended range battery: Ford is including a new 80-amp home charging station that not only fully charges the F-150 Lightning in eight hours but allows owners to easily power their entire home for around three days in the event of an electricity outage.
And perhaps the most important thing for the main market: It just looks like a fucking truck. Ford's swinging for the fences with this and I truly hope they succeed.
e: And Ford is still eligible for the full $7500 tax break on EVs, too.
Yea it will be interesting to watch. Jalopnik made the point that its a truck where all three main sections are now useful. Previously you had the back and cab, but the front was all engine and not useable space. Now you have bed, cabin and frunk. Every part of the truck is usable. Towing is going to SUCK though, like woof. I'm betting we see somewhere between 30-50% range loss depending on the weight of the trailer. I wonder if we start seeing an aftermarket from trailer makers where they design the trailer and the bed cover to be aerodynamically compatible for better range.
If I can actually get a basemodel I'm very interested in it.
They keep talking about the $40k base price, but that version is the stripped down commercial fleet vehicle version. They haven't announced what the base consumer version will cost yet.
And yeah, towing is going to be bad. Nobody's even close to there yet for long distance towing with a battery vehicle.
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Nova_CI have the needThe need for speedRegistered Userregular
I think the only way towing really gets there is a trailer with it's own battery bank (And maybe it's own electric motor?) to increase range against the increased load.
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
They keep talking about the $40k base price, but that version is the stripped down commercial fleet vehicle version. They haven't announced what the base consumer version will cost yet.
And yeah, towing is going to be bad. Nobody's even close to there yet for long distance towing with a battery vehicle.
For me the truck I want is the stripped down fleet version. I just want it in a pretty color.
I would expect anyone that is doing any serious towing is either going to buy the gas version, or get a F-250. Because for the average driver the biggest thing they put in the bed is a TV from WalMart.
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
I would expect anyone that is doing any serious towing is either going to buy the gas version, or get a F-250. Because for the average driver the biggest thing they put in the bed is a TV from WalMart.
Even towing a boat or camper with this thing could greatly reduce the range. Thats what I'm interested to see. Whats the 3500-7500lb trailer weight effects on the battery.
I would expect anyone that is doing any serious towing is either going to buy the gas version, or get a F-250. Because for the average driver the biggest thing they put in the bed is a TV from WalMart.
Even towing a boat or camper with this thing could greatly reduce the range. Thats what I'm interested to see. Whats the 3500-7500lb trailer weight effects on the battery.
Even if it cuts range in half, that's still 150 miles of range. Plenty for a work crew to get to their site, work for a few hours, move to another site, and get back home. If they unhook the trailer and charge while grabbing lunch that's even more.
No you won't be hauling a horse trailer across three states, but having the capacity to haul a trailer full of furniture across town or a boat fifty miles to the lake or some soil home from the nursery is 95% of typical peoples use case.
Posts
black bed white cab black wheels Maverick, yeah
There's no way it's unintentional that the flange on that bumper support is right in the way of draining the radiator. A quarter inch difference and it wouldn't send antifreeze all over the place.
You can't give someone a pirate ship in one game, and then take it back in the next game. It's rude.
Yup. Assume that fluid was only going to be changed on average 3 times over the lifespan of the car, and probably at least once at the dealership who can deal with it, and it's not a problem as far as they are concerned.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
There are supposed to be two of those C-looking things. They're also not supposed to look like a C. They're also supposed to have bolts in them. That sleeve worked its way onto just one section of the pipe letting them separate, basically giving me a poor man's suitcase delete.
I already had a nice $700 Borla upgrade picked out before discovering that all I needed was a $12 clamp...
What's your mileage up to on that? That reminds me that I clicked on the start of this or maybe an SE car thread (months ago) and saw a post from you doing a big job on the GTi and wanted to ask you how your oil consumption has been with that car, and if you found anything that reduced it. The way our '07 GTI consumes oil has always bothered me, even after seeing many references (including the manuals) to some consumption being normal. I saw a drop from a quart every 500-1000 miles (!) when I switched to the OEM Pentosin, but it's still a quart per I'm not sure, 1500 or maybe 2000 miles.
https://jalopnik.com/this-is-the-new-hyundai-pickup-truck-and-it-looks-aweso-1846691111
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
errrr... is it not huge?
edit: does it come with an old fangled drivetrain?
It feels like it's going for the niche Subaru has tried to create and failed with both the BRAT and Baja.
Give me a 6 or 8 foot bed with a two seat cab at that ride height and I'd be all over it though. An actual light truck.
That's fairly safe. I got ratchet straps and can BS a flag.
The ridgeline is right out, it will probably be 10k-15K more expensive for similar equipment. Ranger probably as well, though the ranger does dip down on its basemodels. In my opinion though, a baseline Hyundai is a much better place to be than a Ford these days.
I think if they can keep the base models in the mid 20ks, like 25k, it'll do well. Its near impossible to find a good base model in the domestics (I've tried), and even then to get 4x4 your jumping up to 30k minimum, probably more like 32k-35k.
Now I'm speaking for my personal use case, but I'm ok with losing out on having covered storage by being able to put taller objects in the back and not have to worry about fighting with a hatch opening. A full back seat will let me put most things I carry around that need covered just fine, and the in bed trunk will help too.
My hope is I can get the turbo 2.5 in AWD for 30k or less. with one of those U-shaped bed extenders to get it out to 5ft I'll probably be covered for like 99% of the things I haul (or currently cant haul) around on a regular basis, and with the Turbo 2.5 I can tow whatever else I need to.I do wish there would be a crew cab suicide door model that did lengthen the bed a bit. Overall though it fits my truck needs.
Edit: Especially as it will most likely be coming with a 100k/10y warranty. Thats a nice selling point too.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
This rectangle is where the filter should go. But the opening is sealed. The louver up top is what opens and closes for recirculated/external air.
20 seconds with a razor knife and the very thin plastic is removed.
Filter in, a Dodge part #, made for Dodge vehicles.
And the cover, also a Dodge part #, made for this specific system.
The filter and cover were about $6 each.
Steam | XBL
Like, why manufacture a box that doesn't have a service door for a filter... Just omit a filter if you want to be that cheap and/or keep your perceived maintenance costs lower...
A Minnesota pot hole has eaten another low profile tire on my car. This is the 4th time this has happened. Is it possible to switch over to smaller diameter wheels/rims with taller sidewall tires? Or would that cause problems?
As long as they can clear your brakes. What car/package?
You can check on Tire Rack to see if they have a -1 (one size down) wheel and tire package that fits your car. Many people size down for winter tires so unless you car has a big brake option there should be a wide range of wheels you can choose from.
It's possible, but it depends on the wheel's diameter and offset, and whether or not the different size would interfere with the brake hardware. In a lot of cases, you can safely drop sizes to some other factory size** as a good rule of thumb. Googling appropriate wheel sizes for your year, make, model, and sub-model should yield results.
** Sometimes vehicle's have performance sub-models that have larger wheels both for aesthetics, AND to accommodate beefy brakes, so it's not ALWAYS safe to drop wheel sizes. Best to google, check with the dealer on acceptable sizes, or an aftermarket wheel/tire store.
2016 Chevy Impala LTZ 2LZ, 20" wheels/rims.
If I dropped down to 19" wheel would that be sufficient to save me from pot holes eating the tires? Or is that unlikely to be worth the hassle?
Also would this screw up the TPMS?
Here's a TireRack link to your make/model - it looks like they offer sizes down to 18" that are compatible. As far as TPMS goes, when you purchase the tires/wheels from somewhere like TR they can bundle new ones, or most places are also able to remove the ones from your current wheels and move them to the new ones.
Tire Rack shows you can drop all the way down to a 17" wheel. I'd go for the middle ground of 18" which will also give you more options for tire choices and not look comically small like a 17" would.
https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/results.jsp?autoMake=Chevrolet&autoModel=Impala&autoYear=2016&autoModClar=2LTZ&package=true
You can either buy new TPMS sensors or you can have the ones from the 20" wheels swapped over to the new wheels. New sensors will run around $200 but swapping them from the old to new wheels shouldn't cost more than $40-60 and will likely be factored into the cost of mounting and balancing the wheels. In that case you could buy the wheels from Tire Rack and the tires locally, or both from Tire Rack, request they not be mounted and balanced by them, and then have them mounted and balanced by a local tire shop once they arrive (Tire Rack will even ship them to a place of your choice which I'd recommend doing unless you can fit everything in your car).
Drove it for 3.5 years and 15000 miles and sold it for $1500 less than I paid, so I'd say that was pretty damn good depreciation. Paid off 2/3 of the remaining balance on the Disco and will have the truck paid off in just a couple months with the extra $500 a month of no WRX insurance or payments.
It's bittersweet selling a car that I enjoyed, but it was just a car and the money will let me get whatever I want if it turns out I do need a car in six months to a year. All indications are that I'll stay WfH full time (or in office once / twice a month, and work same place as my wife) even post-COVID and there is always the GTO or Uber or the bus or my bike in a pinch.
I am a bit nervous that the buyer is getting my car for his teenage son, I think as a graduation present. 18ish year olds don't need modified 300 whp rally cars...but that's on them. I sure as hell wouldn't let a teenage boy drive that car even with the good reputation of Subaru safety.
Steam | XBL
It is the #1 most ticketed car. As a 38 year old with perfect driving record I paid $130 / month.
Ironically my new backp car, my wifes 2005 GTO is the #2 most ticketed car but we have the historic (15+ years) and low driven bonuses and only pay $80 / month for full coverage.
But yeah if this kid is named on the insurance it's an easy $200, probably $300 or more if he has even one point, per month.
The base Impala that year had an 18” wheel, which would fit your car perfectly. You will give up some handling and looks, but probably save on pothole damage. I would search Craigslist, Facebook marketplace, and local junkyards for somebody getting rid of the wheels from their LS or LT Impala. Bonus, they will likely have matching TPMS sensors since its a factory wheel, unless the owner is transferring them to a new wheel. A tire shop can pair the new sensors to the car, or you can buy the tool online for like $20.
Edit: in fact, you could probably trade with somebody directly for free, or a few bucks cash on their end. Plenty of people looking to upgrade to fancy wheels.
You can't give someone a pirate ship in one game, and then take it back in the next game. It's rude.
wtf, that's more than I pay for full coverage on my Infiniti! That's bonkers!
Steam | XBL
https://www.thedrive.com/news/40696/how-ford-built-an-electric-f-150-that-can-do-real-work-for-40k
It's also got a huge frunk: https://www.cnet.com/roadshow/news/ford-f-150-lightning-electric-truck-mega-power-frunk-front-trunk/
So $40k for the 230 mile range one, mid-$50k for the 300 mile range one. Ranges are obviously without towing, etc, so ranges when hauling will be lower, so this is probably more targeting the working segment.
https://www.theverge.com/2021/5/19/22442777/ford-f-150-lightning-electric-truck-specs-price
And perhaps the most important thing for the main market: It just looks like a fucking truck. Ford's swinging for the fences with this and I truly hope they succeed.
e: And Ford is still eligible for the full $7500 tax break on EVs, too.
Yea it will be interesting to watch. Jalopnik made the point that its a truck where all three main sections are now useful. Previously you had the back and cab, but the front was all engine and not useable space. Now you have bed, cabin and frunk. Every part of the truck is usable. Towing is going to SUCK though, like woof. I'm betting we see somewhere between 30-50% range loss depending on the weight of the trailer. I wonder if we start seeing an aftermarket from trailer makers where they design the trailer and the bed cover to be aerodynamically compatible for better range.
If I can actually get a basemodel I'm very interested in it.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
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And yeah, towing is going to be bad. Nobody's even close to there yet for long distance towing with a battery vehicle.
For me the truck I want is the stripped down fleet version. I just want it in a pretty color.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Even towing a boat or camper with this thing could greatly reduce the range. Thats what I'm interested to see. Whats the 3500-7500lb trailer weight effects on the battery.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
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Even if it cuts range in half, that's still 150 miles of range. Plenty for a work crew to get to their site, work for a few hours, move to another site, and get back home. If they unhook the trailer and charge while grabbing lunch that's even more.
No you won't be hauling a horse trailer across three states, but having the capacity to haul a trailer full of furniture across town or a boat fifty miles to the lake or some soil home from the nursery is 95% of typical peoples use case.