Another printing classic: the corners are visibly rounder, because the print head is slowing down to change direction, but there's still back pressure from expanding plastic in the nozzle even though it's not actively extruding.
I was curious, so I printed another spacer on the Prusa Mini using the same filament I used for my previous two spacers:
Prusa one in the middle. The top/bottom were from my Ender 3, and sliced with Cura - it lines up the seam, so I guess that's what confused me with the PrusaSlicer one.
I had that weird bubbling on the bottom of those. The middle one is actually upside down, but you see some layer weirdness there too just after the tapered part. It doesn't really show up in the pic, but the Prusa one is also shinier. Might be a temperature thing, it printed at 210°C, I think I usually go for 215°C in Cura.
And this is what they're for. I have an adjustable steel mace for workouts, but the thread doesn't screw all the way in, it jams about two inches before bottoming out with no extra plates on it. Won't be a problem with two inches of extra plates, but I'm not there yet. :-P
Anyone do any model making?
Kinda want to make the moose from The Mitchells vs the Machines out of wood on the cnc and was wondering if anyone would be down for making that and I'd pay?
IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
My enthusiasm seems to have gotten the better of me once again.
The AC adapter I plugged into my Mars was not the AC adapter that came with my Mars.
I now need a new AC adapter for my external HDD... and there is also my Mars' power thingy on the loose.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg) Backlog Challenge List
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SteevLWhat can I do for you?Registered Userregular
We've had our heated bed on my library's 3D printer for about a year and a half. Over the last few months, we were having all sorts of issues, including inconsistent extrusion and what seemed to be an issue with the Z-height setting -- often had to change it to get things to stick to the plate. Anyway, eventually I contacted the company owner who lives close by. He came over and took the printer back with him and determined that some parts on the extruder were squishing the filament too much, so he printed a newer tweaked design for those two parts. The inconsistent extrusion was gone. The weird thing is that we had this extruder since around June of last year and it only just started having these issues.
He also suggested that we lightly sand the build plate to help with adhesion, so my manager did so the other day and I've been pleasantly surprised at how well things have been sticking. Before, it was often a crapshoot if I were printing multiple smaller items that they'd all stay attached for the duration of the print. Now I can feel pretty confident about it successfully finishing for the time being.
Dark Raven XLaugh hard, run fast,be kindRegistered Userregular
I'm getting frustrated with the amount of fixing and failures on my Ender 3, and am toying with the idea of getting a Prusa i3 MK3S+ as an upgrade. I've seen lots of "it just works" - can I expect it to be much more reliable / easier to work with?
I'm getting frustrated with the amount of fixing and failures on my Ender 3, and am toying with the idea of getting a Prusa i3 MK3S+ as an upgrade. I've seen lots of "it just works" - can I expect it to be much more reliable / easier to work with?
I'm just one data point, but my Prusa Mini+ has been pretty great so far. I got the mostly-assembled version, so it was essentially three chunks to screw together.
Haven't done a ton of printing on it yet, but so far there's been no issues I can blame on the printer itself.
I'm getting frustrated with the amount of fixing and failures on my Ender 3, and am toying with the idea of getting a Prusa i3 MK3S+ as an upgrade. I've seen lots of "it just works" - can I expect it to be much more reliable / easier to work with?
I’m not really having that level of problems with my Ender 3. What have you needed to fix?
I'm getting frustrated with the amount of fixing and failures on my Ender 3, and am toying with the idea of getting a Prusa i3 MK3S+ as an upgrade. I've seen lots of "it just works" - can I expect it to be much more reliable / easier to work with?
After a couple of years with my Ender 3, I still had a fair bit of regular tuning and maintenance to keep it printing decently. My Prusa Mini+ was printing significantly better from day one and I’ve had zero maintenance in months now, aside from a couple of cold pulls and one hot end disassembly to clean up the mess from printing some TPU.
It really does “just work” and I’m still impressed with it.
minor incident on
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
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Dark Raven XLaugh hard, run fast,be kindRegistered Userregular
I'm getting frustrated with the amount of fixing and failures on my Ender 3, and am toying with the idea of getting a Prusa i3 MK3S+ as an upgrade. I've seen lots of "it just works" - can I expect it to be much more reliable / easier to work with?
I’m not really having that level of problems with my Ender 3. What have you needed to fix?
Calibration stuff, mostly - the bed is tough to level, so I have a BLtouch to calibrate it each print, but it fails the calibration more than half the time and a failure means a full reset of the machine to try again. And the Z offset seems to vary every damn time too, so there's an extra layer of calibration.
It still works great when I get it started! It's just heckin' frustrating to get there.
Yeah I have an Ender 5 Plus and its a similar story. It will work fine for a good stretch then completely shit the bed and it's like starting over from new. I knew enough to expect it, especially when changing filament and stuff, but it sure would be nice to have something that just works. I havent printed anything in a week now because I got so fed up, that's the longest it's been off since I got it about a year ago. Am in a bit of a bind at the moment but when that's cleared up a Prusa is definitely going to be budgeted for.
Weird. I haven’t had many problems like that, and certainly not since I installed my BLTouch and moved to the upgraded bed.
When I put it together, I followed the directions from Fat Dragon Games / Tomb of 3D-Printed Minis. Did you do something similar?
Ed: the one problem I do have currently is that my z-offset really wants to be -1.6 when laying down the first layer perimeters and -1.5 when doing the first layer fill. For large jobs I can just manually adjust it when it gets to that point, and for smaller jobs or those with lots of individual pieces I just let it have a slightly messy forst layer.
I'm getting frustrated with the amount of fixing and failures on my Ender 3, and am toying with the idea of getting a Prusa i3 MK3S+ as an upgrade. I've seen lots of "it just works" - can I expect it to be much more reliable / easier to work with?
I have one, and yeah, basically it just works.
Now, that doesn't mean I've never had failed prints, but those are almost all first layer adhesion, which 80% of the time I can fix by spending five seconds with isopropyl alcohol to clean fingerprints off the base, 19% of the time by adding a brim when it's just too small to stay down otherwise, and 1% of the time for a particularly awkward type of flexible filament or a very fiddly model I put down some painters tape. One convenient feature is that it has memory for different Z offsets for different baseplates, so I've saved 'smooth' (for PLA), 'textured' (for PETG/flexible), and 'smooth + tape', so I don't need to re-calibrate when switching baseplates / putting tape down.
There's also the times when I forget to add supports or set the right temperature for a particular filament or whatever, but as long as I set the print up properly, the printer will very reliably do what I tell it to do, I just have to tell it to do the right thing.
I don't know about the Ender 3 in comparison -- I had a monoprice select mini before this, which was pretty much just 'plug it in and go', but was a real pain getting prints to stick/unstick at times and clogged more often than I'd like.
I'm getting frustrated with the amount of fixing and failures on my Ender 3, and am toying with the idea of getting a Prusa i3 MK3S+ as an upgrade. I've seen lots of "it just works" - can I expect it to be much more reliable / easier to work with?
After a couple of years with my Ender 3, I still had a fair bit of regular tuning and maintenance to keep it printing decently. My Prusa Mini+ was printing significantly better from day one and I’ve had zero maintenance in months now, aside from a couple of cold pulls and one hot end disassembly to clean up the mess from printing some TPU.
It really does “just work” and I’m still impressed with it.
Another mini and I guess i3 owner (buddy is basically permanently borrowing it), but haven't had issues with anything, except last week I printed a bunch of spaghetti (older filament) and the belt on the mini seems to need to be tightened, but I haven't done because I'm lazy. Also still trying to figure out 5 axis CNC stuff, which is the bigger priority for me currently.
More practical printing for the mace. Picked up two 500g plates so I can fine-tune the weight, but they're 28mm holes and the mace has a 20mm thread. So I made a simple bushing.
Cast iron, especially cheap $5 plates, isn't exactly dimensionally accurate, so one bushing I could friction-fit using quite some force (pretty much put the other plate on top to press it in), and the other one was so loose I had to glue it in place. But shit's there.
Used the Galaxy Black sample filament that came with the Prusa Mini, and I like this so much that I ordered two spools of it. Looks kind of like pencil lead. (Yes yes, it's graphite in pencils)
Apparently it was also in the Spiderverse 2 trailer:
So maybe extrude the back of the head back down towards body?
But it looks fantastic! Super thanks again. I think after the degree I'm going to take some time to buckle down on modeling, as this should've been in the wheel house for me. Also I'd like to do a chess set design for me to 5 axis machine maybe.
Yeah, that's the last part as it involves merging all the individual body pieces together and filling in / rounding off the gaps and joints. It's mostly a pain to need to undo and redo it each time you want to make changes to the individual pieces (because your fillet radii are almost always wrong when you make a change to the core pieces).
I've also never seen what it looks like from the back; does it have a tail or something?
I don't think so. I'll have try and rewatch the movie this weekend to get more screenshots.
PSN: jfrofl
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Dark Raven XLaugh hard, run fast,be kindRegistered Userregular
Welp! I bought a Prusa! That shipping cost to the US is spicy. $77, discounted to $48 for first time buyer of the MK3S+ kit on it's own.
Just checked Amazon for some of their proprietary filament and holy shit, why is it so expensive on there? Think I'm gonna stick with Hatchbox for the foreseeable future.
I picked up two spools of their Galaxy Black filament just because I liked the sample I got with my Mini so much, but at least I'm in Europe so it was still decently priced.
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
Welp! I bought a Prusa! That shipping cost to the US is spicy. $77, discounted to $48 for first time buyer of the MK3S+ kit on it's own.
Just checked Amazon for some of their proprietary filament and holy shit, why is it so expensive on there? Think I'm gonna stick with Hatchbox for the foreseeable future.
I use Overture, Inland (Microcenter), and Polymaker pretty much exclusively and I’ve never had an issue on my Prusa. The generic PLA profile works perfectly for all three.
I have used their galaxy black and it’s super nice. Had a buddy throw a couple spool of it in on his order when he bought a couple more printers recently,
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
Welp! I bought a Prusa! That shipping cost to the US is spicy. $77, discounted to $48 for first time buyer of the MK3S+ kit on it's own.
Just checked Amazon for some of their proprietary filament and holy shit, why is it so expensive on there? Think I'm gonna stick with Hatchbox for the foreseeable future.
Which steel sheet(s) did you get? For what it's worth, Voxelfactory are in Canada and have a bunch of Prusa stuff (parts, at least, no printers right now) so shipping might be cheaper from there -- but honestly $48 or even $77 doesn't seem unreasonable, the box that'll show up is not small or light, and international shipping from the US is expensive right now, so shipping _to_ the US is probably as much. (it cost $28 to get a not-very-large book sent from the US to Canada recently, it's pretty out of hand).
One tip when building -- people can leave comments on the online version of the instructions which are worth a look as an addition to the printed manual. The only thing I got really wrong was when putting the wires to the printhead in place, it says 'leave about 2cm slack' for one of the cables but I left 2 inches of slack which meant that when it came time to connect things at the other end it didn't work out right -- this is where it was pretty handy to remember how to go back to undo what I'd done and redo it properly.
Oh, and I somehow managed to put the spool holder on backwards, which was fine until I tried to print something tall at which point the printhead bonked into it and I realised what I'd done.
I'll pick up Prusa filament every now and then, but I think ordering in sets of two is the best way forward.
Yeah, buying one spool at a time is a waste of shipping costs.
Speaking of Galaxy Black, I went and found some low-poly doodad to print because I got tired of having a boring mug to put pens in.
Echo on
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
FYI - if you like Galaxy Black from Prusa but are in the US, Microcenter’s Inland brand “Twinkling Black” is a really good alternative, and pretty cheap.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
Posts
Prusa one in the middle. The top/bottom were from my Ender 3, and sliced with Cura - it lines up the seam, so I guess that's what confused me with the PrusaSlicer one.
I had that weird bubbling on the bottom of those. The middle one is actually upside down, but you see some layer weirdness there too just after the tapered part. It doesn't really show up in the pic, but the Prusa one is also shinier. Might be a temperature thing, it printed at 210°C, I think I usually go for 215°C in Cura.
And this is what they're for. I have an adjustable steel mace for workouts, but the thread doesn't screw all the way in, it jams about two inches before bottoming out with no extra plates on it. Won't be a problem with two inches of extra plates, but I'm not there yet. :-P
Kinda want to make the moose from The Mitchells vs the Machines out of wood on the cnc and was wondering if anyone would be down for making that and I'd pay?
I think just getting a .obj of the model. It simple enough that I may just buckle down and start trying to learn it myself.
https://www.reddit.com/r/TheMitchells/comments/noa8kz/wooden_moose/
Should be pretty easy to whip up in F360. Gimme a couple days.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
The AC adapter I plugged into my Mars was not the AC adapter that came with my Mars.
I now need a new AC adapter for my external HDD... and there is also my Mars' power thingy on the loose.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
He also suggested that we lightly sand the build plate to help with adhesion, so my manager did so the other day and I've been pleasantly surprised at how well things have been sticking. Before, it was often a crapshoot if I were printing multiple smaller items that they'd all stay attached for the duration of the print. Now I can feel pretty confident about it successfully finishing for the time being.
My Backloggery
I'm just one data point, but my Prusa Mini+ has been pretty great so far. I got the mostly-assembled version, so it was essentially three chunks to screw together.
Haven't done a ton of printing on it yet, but so far there's been no issues I can blame on the printer itself.
I’m not really having that level of problems with my Ender 3. What have you needed to fix?
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
After a couple of years with my Ender 3, I still had a fair bit of regular tuning and maintenance to keep it printing decently. My Prusa Mini+ was printing significantly better from day one and I’ve had zero maintenance in months now, aside from a couple of cold pulls and one hot end disassembly to clean up the mess from printing some TPU.
It really does “just work” and I’m still impressed with it.
Calibration stuff, mostly - the bed is tough to level, so I have a BLtouch to calibrate it each print, but it fails the calibration more than half the time and a failure means a full reset of the machine to try again. And the Z offset seems to vary every damn time too, so there's an extra layer of calibration.
It still works great when I get it started! It's just heckin' frustrating to get there.
When I put it together, I followed the directions from Fat Dragon Games / Tomb of 3D-Printed Minis. Did you do something similar?
Ed: the one problem I do have currently is that my z-offset really wants to be -1.6 when laying down the first layer perimeters and -1.5 when doing the first layer fill. For large jobs I can just manually adjust it when it gets to that point, and for smaller jobs or those with lots of individual pieces I just let it have a slightly messy forst layer.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
I have one, and yeah, basically it just works.
Now, that doesn't mean I've never had failed prints, but those are almost all first layer adhesion, which 80% of the time I can fix by spending five seconds with isopropyl alcohol to clean fingerprints off the base, 19% of the time by adding a brim when it's just too small to stay down otherwise, and 1% of the time for a particularly awkward type of flexible filament or a very fiddly model I put down some painters tape. One convenient feature is that it has memory for different Z offsets for different baseplates, so I've saved 'smooth' (for PLA), 'textured' (for PETG/flexible), and 'smooth + tape', so I don't need to re-calibrate when switching baseplates / putting tape down.
There's also the times when I forget to add supports or set the right temperature for a particular filament or whatever, but as long as I set the print up properly, the printer will very reliably do what I tell it to do, I just have to tell it to do the right thing.
I don't know about the Ender 3 in comparison -- I had a monoprice select mini before this, which was pretty much just 'plug it in and go', but was a real pain getting prints to stick/unstick at times and clogged more often than I'd like.
Another mini and I guess i3 owner (buddy is basically permanently borrowing it), but haven't had issues with anything, except last week I printed a bunch of spaghetti (older filament) and the belt on the mini seems to need to be tightened, but I haven't done because I'm lazy. Also still trying to figure out 5 axis CNC stuff, which is the bigger priority for me currently.
Sorry, I kinda forgot about running Pinewood Derby.
Anyway, here's the head so far - still very much a WIP (the ears especially), but progress is happening:
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Cast iron, especially cheap $5 plates, isn't exactly dimensionally accurate, so one bushing I could friction-fit using quite some force (pretty much put the other plate on top to press it in), and the other one was so loose I had to glue it in place. But shit's there.
Used the Galaxy Black sample filament that came with the Prusa Mini, and I like this so much that I ordered two spools of it. Looks kind of like pencil lead. (Yes yes, it's graphite in pencils)
Oh my god, that looks adorable! Super thanks! And also no rush.
More mooses! I don't have a good reference shot of what the back of its head looks like, so if you have one, I can make some edits.
Side:
Top:
ED: His head is too tall and needs to be sunk down into his shoulders a little more. And he needs to be chunkier! Fixed below:
Side:
Top:
That's better.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Fusion 360. I use it for anything that needs more than just a couple simple shapes, for which I user TinkerCAD.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
So maybe extrude the back of the head back down towards body?
But it looks fantastic! Super thanks again. I think after the degree I'm going to take some time to buckle down on modeling, as this should've been in the wheel house for me. Also I'd like to do a chess set design for me to 5 axis machine maybe.
I've also never seen what it looks like from the back; does it have a tail or something?
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Just checked Amazon for some of their proprietary filament and holy shit, why is it so expensive on there? Think I'm gonna stick with Hatchbox for the foreseeable future.
I use Overture, Inland (Microcenter), and Polymaker pretty much exclusively and I’ve never had an issue on my Prusa. The generic PLA profile works perfectly for all three.
I have used their galaxy black and it’s super nice. Had a buddy throw a couple spool of it in on his order when he bought a couple more printers recently,
Which steel sheet(s) did you get? For what it's worth, Voxelfactory are in Canada and have a bunch of Prusa stuff (parts, at least, no printers right now) so shipping might be cheaper from there -- but honestly $48 or even $77 doesn't seem unreasonable, the box that'll show up is not small or light, and international shipping from the US is expensive right now, so shipping _to_ the US is probably as much. (it cost $28 to get a not-very-large book sent from the US to Canada recently, it's pretty out of hand).
One tip when building -- people can leave comments on the online version of the instructions which are worth a look as an addition to the printed manual. The only thing I got really wrong was when putting the wires to the printhead in place, it says 'leave about 2cm slack' for one of the cables but I left 2 inches of slack which meant that when it came time to connect things at the other end it didn't work out right -- this is where it was pretty handy to remember how to go back to undo what I'd done and redo it properly.
Oh, and I somehow managed to put the spool holder on backwards, which was fine until I tried to print something tall at which point the printhead bonked into it and I realised what I'd done.
Yeah, buying one spool at a time is a waste of shipping costs.
Speaking of Galaxy Black, I went and found some low-poly doodad to print because I got tired of having a boring mug to put pens in.
Been trying to 3d model this for printing
Its going poorly
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]