Elegoo was really good when I had a firmware issue and send me a new mono-screen and touch screen, reach out to them but I won't be surprised if it takes a while for a replacement.
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IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
The last filter I used looks pretty clean. If there were any floaty bits they must've come out with the prints. That or this has been developing for a while - there were a handful of failures before packing it up.
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Well shit, I think I might be getting my first resin printer soon. No way to avoid it. :-(
send help
...but on a serious note, Phrozen3D has a preorder starting soon for their next printer, and from now until the 20th-ish you can get $200 off on it.
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Dark Raven XLaugh hard, run fast,be kindRegistered Userregular
Did my first filament change on the i3, after intentionally letting it run out mid print so I could see how well it recovers the position. WOW that was easy. It just... boops it out, and the new roll of Prusament is pre-cut, just hooked onto the spool? Dang, everything about this company is excellent, eh?
Did my first filament change on the i3, after intentionally letting it run out mid print so I could see how well it recovers the position. WOW that was easy. It just... boops it out, and the new roll of Prusament is pre-cut, just hooked onto the spool? Dang, everything about this company is excellent, eh?
Yeah I'm saving up for one, and am toying with going past that to the Prusa XL. I'm just sick to death of wrestling with the Ender 5. Not that I won't still use it but it'd be nice to have something that just works without much work, if that makes sense.
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Dark Raven XLaugh hard, run fast,be kindRegistered Userregular
Yeah that was about where I was at with my Ender 3. Still worked, still could get great results, but this thing is just such a big ease of use and reliability upgrade. Heartily recommended, especially as a second machine with knowledge and experience from an Ender.
One part of my brain: "Woo, time to level up my hobby!"
Other part of my brain: "ffffff goddamnit"
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IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
There's tools in slicers that let you hollow a model out. But are there tools to let you un-hollow a model? I'm trying to print a Constellation-class from Star Trek and the model I'm using has a big ol' cavity in the saucer section, probably because it's way thicker than that of a Constitution or Miranda. Problem is, last one I printed at 30% scale absolutely crumpled when I tried to drill drain holes into it, and I'm going to be making it even smaller this time around.
Is there any way I can tell ChituBox to just fill that hollow interior, or do I have to load up the Blender files (also provided) and do it in there?
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
Depends on the slicer. I’m most familiar with Prusa Slicer, which definitely has tools to add shapes to a model as either additional filled volume, or negative volume (filing in open areas, or hollowing out spots, like to put screw holes).
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
Question for those of you that have resin printers -- how long does it take from the print being done until you can do something with it?
I've just been printing out some clips for holding garden net down (from PLA), and it's pretty convenient to have the printer beep 'done', and literally a second later reach over, pop the clip off, and voila, it's good to go right away.
If I was doing the same thing with a resin printer, if I look at this page, for example, or the prusa SL1 manual, then once the printer's finished, you wait a bit for the print to finish dripping, put on gloves, open the lid of the printer, unscrew the print platform, remove the print platform, wiggle it around a bit to get any final drips of resin off, put it onto paper towels to contain mess, remove the print from the platform, clean the platform, rinse the print (in one or two pots, depending on which guide I read), now I can remove my gloves, in this case there's no supports to remove so I just go to putting the print under UV light for some amount of time, and _then_ it's done. (and if I want to be thorough, I pour the resin out of the vat and through a filter to get out any little bits that might have ended up in there).
That is a _lot_ of steps, but I don't know how long they actually take in the real world or how messy they really are, compared to how messy they sound.
I keep on being tempted by a resin printer, but given it's taken me literally four separate tries to design _a hollow cylinder_ properly, I feel like I want the fastest workflow I can get when I'm designing stuff and having to go through all those steps each time would be a pain. (yes, four times. This was an adapter for a vacuum cleaner hose; the first time I had diameter and radius confused so it was twice as big as it should be. Second one I had to re-make to be a bit larger because I'd mis-measured the stuff it was meant to fit on. Third one I had to re-make to be a bit _smaller_ so that it fit snugly and didn't fall off, and the fourth one finally was okay)
Or is it that resin printers are for very-high-detail models (miniatures being the obvious one), or generally things where there isn't this sort of repeated print-and-tweak-and-print because the original design is correct already?
Question for those of you that have resin printers -- how long does it take from the print being done until you can do something with it?
Depends on what "Do something" is, but here we go:
I've just been printing out some clips for holding garden net down (from PLA), and it's pretty convenient to have the printer beep 'done', and literally a second later reach over, pop the clip off, and voila, it's good to go right away.
If I was doing the same thing with a resin printer, if I look at this page, for example, or the prusa SL1 manual, then once the printer's finished, you wait a bit for the print to finish dripping, put on gloves, open the lid of the printer, unscrew the print platform, remove the print platform, wiggle it around a bit to get any final drips of resin off, put it onto paper towels to contain mess, remove the print from the platform, clean the platform, rinse the print (in one or two pots, depending on which guide I read), now I can remove my gloves, in this case there's no supports to remove so I just go to putting the print under UV light for some amount of time, and _then_ it's done. (and if I want to be thorough, I pour the resin out of the vat and through a filter to get out any little bits that might have ended up in there).
That is a _lot_ of steps, but I don't know how long they actually take in the real world or how messy they really are, compared to how messy they sound.
0. Print's done! Time = 0 minutes.
1. Let's Drip! Time = 0 to infinite minutes, with rapidly diminishing returns. Honestly, letting your prints drip is just saving you resin (the drips are returning to their home pool, after all) so if you don't care about a little more mess and a little less frugality, you can go at it as soon as the print is done and the print bed has retracted to its stop point. Depending on when I'm going to follow up, sometimes I'll just leave the print here to hang overnight, which expecting it to drip clean here definitely is overkill and hits diminishing returns quickly in terms of the amount of drippage you're gonna remove.
2. Gloves! Time = 20 seconds. Really. Not hard, highly encouraged. Your skin might be more durable, but apparently mine's made of sensitive parchment now in my old age, so on go the gloves.
3. Open the Lid! T = 2 seconds.
4. Gettin' off the Bed! T = 10 seconds. Undoing the handscrew that holds the bed to the drive shaft is trivial, and as long as you're reasonably gentle you won't jiggle and spray uncured resin everywhere.
5. Wiggle that excess off! T = 0 seconds, up to Preference. I basically never jiggle off excess resin, that's just asking for a mess.
6. Put it on paper towels to contain the mess! T = You should have already done this, and thus 0 seconds. Just keep a towel or two out in front of your machine ready to go ahead of time.
7. Remove the print! It's go time! T = Less than a minute. Depending on how the print has been supported, this might be super easy with the right (likely included) scraper tool. If the supports have a Less Helpful raft design, then maybe up this by a minute to account for gettin' in there to scrape it off. Usually once I get a corner of a raft up, the plastic scraper that came with my Photon will splooge the rest of the raft right off. HELPFUL NOTE! Aim your scraped-off-print in the direction of a proper landing zone, e.g. those towels you set up, or a catch basin you've designated for unclean prints. I use some extra plastic container from old produce and deli meat (cleaned beforehand, of course!).
8. Clean the Platform!?!? T = Why bother? Honestly, as long as it's free of stuck-on cured resin, you're good. Maybe wipe up any resin drips that got onto the handle/attachment points to the printer, but I don't bother cleaning the bed itself; it's going right back into the printer and into the resin tank for the Next Model Up.
9. Rinse the Print! I'm gonna call this T = 10 minutes, but follow along with me here, as I'm a weirdo and some of this is personal preference. A) I put the print into a jar, sealed and filled with a cleaner of choice (I'm using LA's Totally Awesome) to removed the bulk of the uncured resin. I give it a handful of swish-spins in a variety of directions, making sure to agitate the model reasonably but not toooooo roughly. (T = 2 minutes) Then I remove the print from the jar and dunk it into a hot soapy water bath, to start loosening the supports, clear off excess cleaning fluid, and the remaining stuck-on resin (very little, at this point). With the supports softened I will manually brush and break these off with my fingers, sometimes with an Exacto blade for difficult or stubborn connection points. Once all of the supports are removed I use an old toothbrush with that same hot soapy water, gently doing my best to scrub all of the surfaces of the print. THEN, I give the print a vigorous wash in running warm water to clean off the soapy water along with any leftover cleaner or fluid resin. (T = 8 minutes)
10. AIR DRY THE MODEL. T = Various, but Long. Usually overnight. I'm adding a step in here for you, for a very specific reason: If you cure a print while it's still wet, from basically any fluid, you run the risk of ruining the surface of the print. I've seen all too many complaints on Facebook groups about weird white bubbly textures arising from curing without proper drying first, and I refuse to deal with that. So AIR DRYING my models gets the lion's share of time here.
11. Oh hey, I should check the vat. T = Less than a minute. Usually if my print is good, and there aren't any deformed supports or parts of the print, I'll just use my plastic scraper to feel the bottom of the vat for crud and eyeball the remaining resin for floaty chunks. The resin then gets to continue living in the vat; no need to transfer back to the bottle if you're printing regularly, or at least agitating the resin every now and then.
12. Gloves off. Oh yeah, take those off. Don't want to look like a weirdo at the dinner table!
13. DRYING'S DONE! CURE TIME! T = 20-30 minutes, YMMV. I build a DIY reflective curing box with a UV light and a little UV-light driven turntable, and my models usually get between 20 minutes to a half hour of cure time. Bigger or thicker models get more, thin models get considerably less.
14. DONE! TIME TO....DO SOMETHING WITH IT!
So, for those keeping score, I'm at a little over 10 minutes of post-processing hand work, followed by a Long Dry Time, and then 20-30 minutes of curing time.
I keep on being tempted by a resin printer, but given it's taken me literally four separate tries to design _a hollow cylinder_ properly, I feel like I want the fastest workflow I can get when I'm designing stuff and having to go through all those steps each time would be a pain. (yes, four times. This was an adapter for a vacuum cleaner hose; the first time I had diameter and radius confused so it was twice as big as it should be. Second one I had to re-make to be a bit larger because I'd mis-measured the stuff it was meant to fit on. Third one I had to re-make to be a bit _smaller_ so that it fit snugly and didn't fall off, and the fourth one finally was okay)
Or is it that resin printers are for very-high-detail models (miniatures being the obvious one), or generally things where there isn't this sort of repeated print-and-tweak-and-print because the original design is correct already?
I mean, getting your design perfectly right in the first place is obviously ideal, but shit happens. So, if you need to iterate, which I've done loads of, you just run through this process again. It's honestly not all that painful or much work, but it is a little bit more than with an FDM printer.
While there's extra time involved on the back end for cleaning, you may be able to still have a faster total turnaround time since an LCD resin printer can often print faster than an FDM printer depending on the object. With resin, printing time is
essentially linear with object height. Width and length are irrelevant to print speed. Printing multiple objects at once takes the same time as printing one. FDM print speed is proportional to printed volume in all dimensions. Printing multiple objects at once takes multiple times as long as one.
For functional objects like the clips and such you're doing you'd want to be using "tough" resin. Standard resin is far too brittle for such things. Similar to the need to use ABS over PLA in an FDM printer.
Just remember that half the people you meet are below average intelligence.
I'd say either some bit of debris in the nozzle or your extruder gear started slipping and not feeding the filament. Did you hear the extruder clicking as it was printing or does the gear have a visible buildup of filament shavings between the teeth?
Just remember that half the people you meet are below average intelligence.
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Dark Raven XLaugh hard, run fast,be kindRegistered Userregular
@SiliconStew wow you nailed it! Somehow the extruder gear had worked itself entirely out of alignment. Funny part was, I had to loosen the screw to get it mobile to slide back into place, not sure how that happened?
Is there anyone doing realistic 3d printed seashells? I love me some seashells for crafting, etc., but I'm not convinced there's really a sustainable way to remove them from the wild. It seems like 3d printing would be ideal for this, but the most I've been able to find is some fairly crude models on Thingiverse and the like.
(I do not have a printer; I'd be paying someone else to print them.)
You could probably find a modeler on 3d requests subreddit. You could possibly make a resin printed positive, then cast it in silicone to create a negative, then use like plaster of paris or something to create a new solid, that way you aren't always running plastic as well.
Also there are a few other 3dmodel sites that are worth checking out, but I'm at work and don't have the bookmarks.
You could probably find a modeler on 3d requests subreddit. You could possibly make a resin printed positive, then cast it in silicone to create a negative, then use like plaster of paris or something to create a new solid, that way you aren't always running plastic as well.
Also there are a few other 3dmodel sites that are worth checking out, but I'm at work and don't have the bookmarks.
The appeal of 3d printing is that it can make shells that are visually very close to the real thing. Casting can't do that with seashells.
edit: otherwise I'd just get some molds on Etsy and go to town
Makes sense.
Paid models on https://cults3d.com/ seem not too terrible. Looked like there were some better options there at least.
As for who can print them for you, I suppose it depends on the model. I have a prusa mini that's been neglected and can print something. I'm in US, Maryland. Some models may be better with resin, so you may ask in thread. Or there are websites that you can leverage to have them print for you.
Or your library may have a printer. Hopefully this helps.
PSN: jfrofl
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ObiFettUse the ForceAs You WishRegistered Userregular
So with a birthday coming up, I'm looking into getting my first 3D printer. I've read about all the various features, Resin v FDM, brands, etc, but I'm still very new to this relatively complicated hobby. Maybe ya'll can help!
Things that matter to me:
- Large build plate: I'd like to be able to print cosplay pieces.
- Quieter: I mostly just dont want it to be super loud due to where it will be located.
- Dual Z-axis: This seems like a fairly important new-ish feature that most of the better printers have.
- Auto-Levelling: I really don't want to have to fiddle with levelling out the build plate every time
- Printing Resume: Hate the idea of loss of power or something else ruining a print
I'm torn between Sovol SV03 and the Longer LK5 Pro Upgraded. Any thoughts on those? Something else I should look at if not those two? I'd probably go all in and get a Prusa i3 MK3S+ if the build plate was a little bigger. Reddit seems really down on Creality, something about quality of parts and stuff tanking in the past year as they coast on their name? I don't know. I generally trust this place above all else, so I'm hoping you guys can help me out.
Dark Raven XLaugh hard, run fast,be kindRegistered Userregular
FWIW I mostly use my printer for cosplay stuff, and the slightly smaller height for the Prusa i3 MK3S+ has not been a hindrance at all. You're gonna be gluing parts if it's a very large piece anyway.
I've heard good things about the Anycubic Kobra Max as a good large volume printer, and I believe it hits all your points although I don't know about how quiet it is; it is reviewed as 'pretty quiet' but what that actually means might vary by person. I'm looking at that as a next printer because I do have some larger projects I'd like to get to at some point. But you absolutely can pull off smaller build areas and gluing together the pieces, its obv more work and is less forgiving of less-than-perfect prints so it can be frustrating, but its doable.
Hello 3D print friends. I swear I have so many more issues with my filament printer then my resin printer. I don't know how my settings got so messed up but my Cura profiles are all out of wack. Reset them and am printing some stuff to fix up my painting area. I've made 12 of these citadel paint holders and every single one has this weird...stringing? I guess? On the left side. Even if I print it backwards so the left side is printed on the right end of the print bed, I also made some lithophanes around Christmas and now realize looking at pictures of them that they had the same issue, all on the left side, I have no idea what is causing this, and have dialed in my temp and retraction settings super well for this filament (black Reprapper) but this was also happening with white from Microcenter.
Does anyone have any idea what is causing this? I have no clue and its driving me nuts
One thing to consider when thinking "I want a bigger printer" is that bigger prints take a _lot_ longer. Looking at, for the sake of argument, this stormtrooper helmet on thingiverse, there's a "complete helmet" model there. (in practise you'd probably make it out of pieces, but for "how big does my printer need to be" purposes we'll use the biggest model)
If I ask prusaslicer to slice it (at 0.2mm layers for reasonable quality), it tells me it'll take almost four days to print (if I switch to an 0.8mm nozzle and 'draft' quality it's still over a day). That is a very long time for something to be printing, and at that point you'd want to be very sure that your printer is predictable enough that nothing is going to go wrong along the way. Also, that's 1.5kg of filament, which is more filament than comes on most rolls, so now you're looking at switching filament partway through the print, or needing to get a larger spool and potentially a different filament holder.
Just got any Anycubic Mega X from a MP select mini and yeah, went to print something that it wanted to take over a day. No thanks! Luckily it was just a smallish shelf so I could cut down all the settings down to 14 (15 in reality) hours.
Was the first long print I've done on it after only the test file so luckily it worked. Now to decide what do about the filament holder sticking out like that and where to put it exactly...but hooray, bigger things here I come.
Been printing a lot lately. Got my problem fixed (it was a belt too loose and a bolt too tight), and have been printing stuff to clean up my printing/painting space.
Asked my wife if she wanted something and she picked a big slug thing, got some of the Pro PLA from Microcenter and...my god this stuff prints like a dream compared to my crappy RepRapper filament.
Hope this isn't a sign of things to come. Gantry got stuck cockeyed like one side was stuck at some point. Lowered it and it fixed it, started a print and it's working, but don't think it went high enough to the point it was stuck. Better move it as high as it can go and back down to make sure after, I guess. Controls seem to be a bit flaky, though, as hitting the button making it go up will start going down for some reason. May be user error, I suppose. Edit: And shit, print died in the middle for some reason...sigh. Let's go check for firmware update. Edit the 2nd: Hoping it's the model, it seems to have too fine of infill or something so the hot end looks to have glued itself onto the model eventually. Mess with settings later, let's try another item.
Edit the final: Seems it just needed to be levelled again for some reason, so easy fix...fingers crossed.
Starting a 3 day print. Couldn't find a way to break it into smaller pieces that wouldnt be very difficult and ugly looking to assemble due to a lot of intricate detail. Giving it one shot though, I get stubborn on getting prints done but this would be too much time + material wasted to keep at it.
Its a soda/beer/etc can holder. I've made a bunch of these (not this particular one, it was a one-off due the time and amount of material) and they're huge hits. If I get 1 or 2 more printers I may actually even start selling them as the ones I make are licensed to allow it. There's a free example on Thingiverse which has been very popular here due to the 'feet' which prevents spilling.
On a roll! Had the parts done for ages but finally glued and painted. I may redo or at least touch up the lines, my hands are not getting less shaky with age.
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A core crystal from Xenoblade Chronicles 2!
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
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...but on a serious note, Phrozen3D has a preorder starting soon for their next printer, and from now until the 20th-ish you can get $200 off on it.
Yeah I'm saving up for one, and am toying with going past that to the Prusa XL. I'm just sick to death of wrestling with the Ender 5. Not that I won't still use it but it'd be nice to have something that just works without much work, if that makes sense.
One part of my brain: "Woo, time to level up my hobby!"
Other part of my brain: "ffffff goddamnit"
Is there any way I can tell ChituBox to just fill that hollow interior, or do I have to load up the Blender files (also provided) and do it in there?
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I would also recommend using Lychee for your resin slicing. It has a bunch of hollowing/hole/blocker options if you do want to do hollow stuff.
I've just been printing out some clips for holding garden net down (from PLA), and it's pretty convenient to have the printer beep 'done', and literally a second later reach over, pop the clip off, and voila, it's good to go right away.
If I was doing the same thing with a resin printer, if I look at this page, for example, or the prusa SL1 manual, then once the printer's finished, you wait a bit for the print to finish dripping, put on gloves, open the lid of the printer, unscrew the print platform, remove the print platform, wiggle it around a bit to get any final drips of resin off, put it onto paper towels to contain mess, remove the print from the platform, clean the platform, rinse the print (in one or two pots, depending on which guide I read), now I can remove my gloves, in this case there's no supports to remove so I just go to putting the print under UV light for some amount of time, and _then_ it's done. (and if I want to be thorough, I pour the resin out of the vat and through a filter to get out any little bits that might have ended up in there).
That is a _lot_ of steps, but I don't know how long they actually take in the real world or how messy they really are, compared to how messy they sound.
I keep on being tempted by a resin printer, but given it's taken me literally four separate tries to design _a hollow cylinder_ properly, I feel like I want the fastest workflow I can get when I'm designing stuff and having to go through all those steps each time would be a pain. (yes, four times. This was an adapter for a vacuum cleaner hose; the first time I had diameter and radius confused so it was twice as big as it should be. Second one I had to re-make to be a bit larger because I'd mis-measured the stuff it was meant to fit on. Third one I had to re-make to be a bit _smaller_ so that it fit snugly and didn't fall off, and the fourth one finally was okay)
Or is it that resin printers are for very-high-detail models (miniatures being the obvious one), or generally things where there isn't this sort of repeated print-and-tweak-and-print because the original design is correct already?
Depends on what "Do something" is, but here we go:
0. Print's done! Time = 0 minutes.
1. Let's Drip! Time = 0 to infinite minutes, with rapidly diminishing returns. Honestly, letting your prints drip is just saving you resin (the drips are returning to their home pool, after all) so if you don't care about a little more mess and a little less frugality, you can go at it as soon as the print is done and the print bed has retracted to its stop point. Depending on when I'm going to follow up, sometimes I'll just leave the print here to hang overnight, which expecting it to drip clean here definitely is overkill and hits diminishing returns quickly in terms of the amount of drippage you're gonna remove.
2. Gloves! Time = 20 seconds. Really. Not hard, highly encouraged. Your skin might be more durable, but apparently mine's made of sensitive parchment now in my old age, so on go the gloves.
3. Open the Lid! T = 2 seconds.
4. Gettin' off the Bed! T = 10 seconds. Undoing the handscrew that holds the bed to the drive shaft is trivial, and as long as you're reasonably gentle you won't jiggle and spray uncured resin everywhere.
5. Wiggle that excess off! T = 0 seconds, up to Preference. I basically never jiggle off excess resin, that's just asking for a mess.
6. Put it on paper towels to contain the mess! T = You should have already done this, and thus 0 seconds. Just keep a towel or two out in front of your machine ready to go ahead of time.
7. Remove the print! It's go time! T = Less than a minute. Depending on how the print has been supported, this might be super easy with the right (likely included) scraper tool. If the supports have a Less Helpful raft design, then maybe up this by a minute to account for gettin' in there to scrape it off. Usually once I get a corner of a raft up, the plastic scraper that came with my Photon will splooge the rest of the raft right off. HELPFUL NOTE! Aim your scraped-off-print in the direction of a proper landing zone, e.g. those towels you set up, or a catch basin you've designated for unclean prints. I use some extra plastic container from old produce and deli meat (cleaned beforehand, of course!).
8. Clean the Platform!?!? T = Why bother? Honestly, as long as it's free of stuck-on cured resin, you're good. Maybe wipe up any resin drips that got onto the handle/attachment points to the printer, but I don't bother cleaning the bed itself; it's going right back into the printer and into the resin tank for the Next Model Up.
9. Rinse the Print! I'm gonna call this T = 10 minutes, but follow along with me here, as I'm a weirdo and some of this is personal preference. A) I put the print into a jar, sealed and filled with a cleaner of choice (I'm using LA's Totally Awesome) to removed the bulk of the uncured resin. I give it a handful of swish-spins in a variety of directions, making sure to agitate the model reasonably but not toooooo roughly. (T = 2 minutes) Then I remove the print from the jar and dunk it into a hot soapy water bath, to start loosening the supports, clear off excess cleaning fluid, and the remaining stuck-on resin (very little, at this point). With the supports softened I will manually brush and break these off with my fingers, sometimes with an Exacto blade for difficult or stubborn connection points. Once all of the supports are removed I use an old toothbrush with that same hot soapy water, gently doing my best to scrub all of the surfaces of the print. THEN, I give the print a vigorous wash in running warm water to clean off the soapy water along with any leftover cleaner or fluid resin. (T = 8 minutes)
10. AIR DRY THE MODEL. T = Various, but Long. Usually overnight. I'm adding a step in here for you, for a very specific reason: If you cure a print while it's still wet, from basically any fluid, you run the risk of ruining the surface of the print. I've seen all too many complaints on Facebook groups about weird white bubbly textures arising from curing without proper drying first, and I refuse to deal with that. So AIR DRYING my models gets the lion's share of time here.
11. Oh hey, I should check the vat. T = Less than a minute. Usually if my print is good, and there aren't any deformed supports or parts of the print, I'll just use my plastic scraper to feel the bottom of the vat for crud and eyeball the remaining resin for floaty chunks. The resin then gets to continue living in the vat; no need to transfer back to the bottle if you're printing regularly, or at least agitating the resin every now and then.
12. Gloves off. Oh yeah, take those off. Don't want to look like a weirdo at the dinner table!
13. DRYING'S DONE! CURE TIME! T = 20-30 minutes, YMMV. I build a DIY reflective curing box with a UV light and a little UV-light driven turntable, and my models usually get between 20 minutes to a half hour of cure time. Bigger or thicker models get more, thin models get considerably less.
14. DONE! TIME TO....DO SOMETHING WITH IT!
So, for those keeping score, I'm at a little over 10 minutes of post-processing hand work, followed by a Long Dry Time, and then 20-30 minutes of curing time.
I mean, getting your design perfectly right in the first place is obviously ideal, but shit happens. So, if you need to iterate, which I've done loads of, you just run through this process again. It's honestly not all that painful or much work, but it is a little bit more than with an FDM printer.
essentially linear with object height. Width and length are irrelevant to print speed. Printing multiple objects at once takes the same time as printing one. FDM print speed is proportional to printed volume in all dimensions. Printing multiple objects at once takes multiple times as long as one.
For functional objects like the clips and such you're doing you'd want to be using "tough" resin. Standard resin is far too brittle for such things. Similar to the need to use ABS over PLA in an FDM printer.
Is there anyone doing realistic 3d printed seashells? I love me some seashells for crafting, etc., but I'm not convinced there's really a sustainable way to remove them from the wild. It seems like 3d printing would be ideal for this, but the most I've been able to find is some fairly crude models on Thingiverse and the like.
(I do not have a printer; I'd be paying someone else to print them.)
Also there are a few other 3dmodel sites that are worth checking out, but I'm at work and don't have the bookmarks.
The appeal of 3d printing is that it can make shells that are visually very close to the real thing. Casting can't do that with seashells.
edit: otherwise I'd just get some molds on Etsy and go to town
Paid models on https://cults3d.com/ seem not too terrible. Looked like there were some better options there at least.
As for who can print them for you, I suppose it depends on the model. I have a prusa mini that's been neglected and can print something. I'm in US, Maryland. Some models may be better with resin, so you may ask in thread. Or there are websites that you can leverage to have them print for you.
Or your library may have a printer. Hopefully this helps.
Things that matter to me:
- Large build plate: I'd like to be able to print cosplay pieces.
- Quieter: I mostly just dont want it to be super loud due to where it will be located.
- Dual Z-axis: This seems like a fairly important new-ish feature that most of the better printers have.
- Auto-Levelling: I really don't want to have to fiddle with levelling out the build plate every time
- Printing Resume: Hate the idea of loss of power or something else ruining a print
I'm torn between Sovol SV03 and the Longer LK5 Pro Upgraded. Any thoughts on those? Something else I should look at if not those two? I'd probably go all in and get a Prusa i3 MK3S+ if the build plate was a little bigger. Reddit seems really down on Creality, something about quality of parts and stuff tanking in the past year as they coast on their name? I don't know. I generally trust this place above all else, so I'm hoping you guys can help me out.
Does anyone have any idea what is causing this? I have no clue and its driving me nuts
https://imgur.com/a/NOs1G2R
If I ask prusaslicer to slice it (at 0.2mm layers for reasonable quality), it tells me it'll take almost four days to print (if I switch to an 0.8mm nozzle and 'draft' quality it's still over a day). That is a very long time for something to be printing, and at that point you'd want to be very sure that your printer is predictable enough that nothing is going to go wrong along the way. Also, that's 1.5kg of filament, which is more filament than comes on most rolls, so now you're looking at switching filament partway through the print, or needing to get a larger spool and potentially a different filament holder.
Was the first long print I've done on it after only the test file so luckily it worked. Now to decide what do about the filament holder sticking out like that and where to put it exactly...but hooray, bigger things here I come.
Asked my wife if she wanted something and she picked a big slug thing, got some of the Pro PLA from Microcenter and...my god this stuff prints like a dream compared to my crappy RepRapper filament.
Edit the final: Seems it just needed to be levelled again for some reason, so easy fix...fingers crossed.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Its a soda/beer/etc can holder. I've made a bunch of these (not this particular one, it was a one-off due the time and amount of material) and they're huge hits. If I get 1 or 2 more printers I may actually even start selling them as the ones I make are licensed to allow it. There's a free example on Thingiverse which has been very popular here due to the 'feet' which prevents spilling.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3345027
Spoilered for size
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]