I'm currently running a heavily upgraded Ender-3 V2 and getting GREAT quality off of it. I've gotten it dialed in quite well so I can run 100mm/s without any loss of quality and it handles pretty much any PLA I throw at it.
Upgrades:
MicroSwiss All-Metal HotEnd
Bondtech CHP .4mm Nozzle
Yellow Springs
Aluminum Extruder Mars Orbiter Fan Shroud
Raspberry Pi 4b with 5" screen for Klipper/Fluidd/Klipperscreen
I'm still terrible at actually modeling my own stuff so I mostly use thingiverse / thangs to find what I need. I've printed TONS of stuff, though and have managed some really cool prints. I love print-in-place stuff so I spent some time making sure my tolerances were spot on so I can manage all the cool clearance tests.
I think my next project is going to be a CoreXY rig of some flavor (I'm really liking the look of the Seckit SK-TANK) because now I want SPEEEEDDDD. The other ones I've looked at are the Rat Rig Core-3 and the Voron 2.4 . The SK-TANK just seems like a much simpler process than trying to self-source a Voron.
Biggest issue with my Ender 3 Pro is that the bed isn't flat.
Are you running a bltouch or equivalent? That combined with either the Jyer's Marlin firmware or Klipper lets you create a bed mesh that allows the printer to compensate quite effectively for non-flat print surfaces.
Biggest issue with my Ender 3 Pro is that the bed isn't flat.
Are you running a bltouch or equivalent? That combined with either the Jyer's Marlin firmware or Klipper lets you create a bed mesh that allows the printer to compensate quite effectively for non-flat print surfaces.
Okay, if I hadn't already made the order, that would have convinced me.
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Custom SpecialI know I am, I'm sure I am,I'm Sounders 'til I die!Registered Userregular
Geeeeez. @minor incident are those with the same settings? I feel like my 3 pro prints somewhere in between on average.
The left looks like really big print lines, but the right one looks crazy clean by comparison.
Geeeeez. @minor incident are those with the same settings? I feel like my 3 pro prints somewhere in between on average.
The left looks like really big print lines, but the right one looks crazy clean by comparison.
To be fair, the Ender was printing on .28, and the Prusa is printing on .20. The Ender one was sliced on Cura and the Prusa one was done on PrusaSlicer. Otherwise pretty similar settings and temps (the Prusa is going a little faster by default). Both with .4mm nozzles. No ironing on either.
And the actual feel of the Ender's prints are great. They feel decently smooth, but the layer lines are always super visible and a little gnarly in spots, even with a matte filament.
minor incident on
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
Well I was continuing to work on dialing in my setting for lithophanes, got a few decent ones but it looks like it was trying to print a wall past the border of the model and one end keeps getting a gap, but still decent.
Then this morning I got an E1 error on my Ender 3 Pro. Hot end isn't heating. Hopefully its just the heater cartridge or the themistor, as those are pretty cheap and Amazon can get them here by next week.
IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
Have I posted this here yet? I don't think I've posted this here yet.
Twuck!
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg) Backlog Challenge List
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Goose!That's me, honeyShow me the way home, honeyRegistered Userregular
My 3D printer has been collecting dust after geting frustrated with its lack of functioning the way its meant to properly. My buddy told me about some things (he now has 3 printers) that made me intrigued to try including a special adhesive that goes on top of the table called PEI or something like that? Anyone heard of it?
I have! You can usually get either a sheet that lays on top of your current bed or, I think, like a sticker that sticks to your bed. Sometimes you can find ones that are magnetized and peel on or off.
Basically, it is a really tacky surface to print on, and will help with bed adhesion problems on heated or unheated beds. It'll make it so you don't need to use painter's tape or gluesticks to get your print to stick. They stand up to a decent amount of use, and when they stop sticking well, you just peel it off and replace it with another.
However, a PEI sheet is only going to really help you if your problem is bed adhesion (e.g., your prints either completely fail to start on the first layer or they pull off the bed mid-print).
I like the Creality glass bed with the carbosilicate (?) coating. At temp, it basically locks on to the bottom of your print, and completely releases it when it drops back down to room temp, such that your print can just slide off.
What's everyone's favorite "So you need to compile your own firmware for an Ender 3" tutorial? Because my current firmware supports the BLTouch (yay!) but doesn't support the pause-and-change-filament command (boo!) and doesn't go to 0,0 when paused (boo!).
My printer sits under a cupboard so was always more in shade than I'd like, so I finally got around to setting up some improved lighting. Theoretically there's fancier solutions out there that use 12V led strips and piggyback off the existing PSU, but I just wanted something quick and easy so got one of these during the christmas sales, used 3m command strips to fix it to the bottom of the cupboard, and it makes everything a lot easier to see.
(though I still wish the print head was smaller, if things are being fiddly I always end up having to tip my head sideways to be able to see what's actually happening at the nozzle)
Noob question: I got an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro resin printer for Christmas and so far have only managed to successfully print five miniatures. Last night I set up four at once and got three to work (with the one that didn't work leaving a flat shape on the FEP film), and today I set up another four but have only gotten one to work (with the other three leaving flat shapes on the FEP film). How come I'm getting so many that just leave pancakes stuck to the FEP film instead of sticking to the build plate like they're supposed to?
Noob question: I got an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro resin printer for Christmas and so far have only managed to successfully print five miniatures. Last night I set up four at once and got three to work (with the one that didn't work leaving a flat shape on the FEP film), and today I set up another four but have only gotten one to work (with the other three leaving flat shapes on the FEP film). How come I'm getting so many that just leave pancakes stuck to the FEP film instead of sticking to the build plate like they're supposed to?
Some things to check
Build plate not level with screen.
Build plate not close enough to screen for curing to adhere to plate (wrong z height calibration).
Build plate too close to screen so first layer too thin and weak to pull away from film (wrong z height calibration).
Not having extra cure time for first layer (10x normal layers).
Just remember that half the people you meet are below average intelligence.
SteevLWhat can I do for you?Registered Userregular
Spent over 2 hours on Wednesday trying to print this submission of earrings from one of our regular library patrons and it would always fuck up at some point. Yesterday I gave it another try and once again, it screwed up:
I emailed her this image and said that we tried, but just couldn't get them to print properly. She was very understanding. Later I tried printing some keychain designs that we regularly give out to people, and they printed perfectly. They had also been screwing up the day before, so I decided to give one more try on the earrings. They printed perfectly as well. Sometimes it feels like there's no rhyme or reason to why this printer screws things up. I hadn't made any adjustments to the machine since my arrival in the morning when I lowered the Z-height offset setting.
Anyway, emailed the lady again with the good news and she showed up like 2 minutes before closing to pick them up. Plus she grabbed a bunch of the failures from our failure tray.
Spent over 2 hours on Wednesday trying to print this submission of earrings from one of our regular library patrons and it would always fuck up at some point. Yesterday I gave it another try and once again, it screwed up:
I emailed her this image and said that we tried, but just couldn't get them to print properly. She was very understanding. Later I tried printing some keychain designs that we regularly give out to people, and they printed perfectly. They had also been screwing up the day before, so I decided to give one more try on the earrings. They printed perfectly as well. Sometimes it feels like there's no rhyme or reason to why this printer screws things up. I hadn't made any adjustments to the machine since my arrival in the morning when I lowered the Z-height offset setting.
Anyway, emailed the lady again with the good news and she showed up like 2 minutes before closing to pick them up. Plus she grabbed a bunch of the failures from our failure tray.
Honestly, sometimes it’s just a bad section/batch of filament. I’ve definitely been there before where it just magically starts working better with a fresh roll, or even just a few meters deeper into the current roll.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
I really need to up my solution on storing open spools of filament. Or finding something to print regularly if I don't have anything active to print to use up the spool.
Yeah, been thinking about getting some small vacuum bags or something, there are solutions made just for spools.
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
I made myself a dry box out of a bin from the container store. Just a clear one with a latching lid with a gasket. I dumped a bunch of desiccant inside and installed two dowels for spools to sit on just above the desiccant. I also tossed in a hygrometer and it really does work pretty well — never gets above about 18% humidity, when my room averages around 35% - 45%.
That said, I also have a pile of PLA spools on my shelves that have been open for over a year and when I occasionally grab one to use it prints every bit as well as ones from the dry box. So, while it may be more of an issue with some filaments (maybe PETG? Definitely Nylon), I think the exposure to humidity issue might be a little overemphasized for PLA, at least.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
Might be the filament I buy then? I've kind of had some crap luck on things if the spool sits out, but also it tends to sit out for quite a while between prints. So possibly need to find things to print to finish off a spool I think.
I had a bin with one of those bigger desiccant bowl things, but that somehow got knocked over and weird liquid was sitting at the bottom of the container.
Maybe I'll look at seed starting stuff or something to use this current spool up.
That said, I also have a pile of PLA spools on my shelves that have been open for over a year and when I occasionally grab one to use it prints every bit as well as ones from the dry box. So, while it may be more of an issue with some filaments (maybe PETG? Definitely Nylon), I think the exposure to humidity issue might be a little overemphasized for PLA, at least.
Yeah, I'm absolutely no authority on the subject but I've never had problems with PLA that has been standing in the shelf for years.
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
Might be the filament I buy then? I've kind of had some crap luck on things if the spool sits out, but also it tends to sit out for quite a while between prints. So possibly need to find things to print to finish off a spool I think.
I had a bin with one of those bigger desiccant bowl things, but that somehow got knocked over and weird liquid was sitting at the bottom of the container.
Maybe I'll look at seed starting stuff or something to use this current spool up.
There’s a ton of variables for sure. Like, if your room is regularly much more humid than the 35-45% mine sits at, that could be a big factor. Could be the brands of filament too. I almost exclusively use Microcenter/Inland and Overture for PLA, and have had great luck even with super old filament. Some printers could also theoretically be more or less sensitive to wetter filament, depending on the style of hotend, diameter of nozzle, etc.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
I keep my PLA spools (mostly Hatchbox) in the bags they come in, and when I’m not using it I wrap it closed tightly and put it back in the box so that gravity helps keep the bag closed.
I bought a couple of dry boxes for my PETG, but I haven’t printed anything in it yet so they’re still sealed.
SteevLWhat can I do for you?Registered Userregular
The PLA we order at work comes in resealable bags, which is nice. Well, the 1kg rolls do, anyway. We ordered some 2kg rolls last year and those did not include resealable bags. It wasn't a huge issue, fortunately, but we're not going to reorder those.
Ended up printing a 1x3 version of this: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/61902-small-self-watering-seed-starter
Since it fits on my mini. Works pretty well since starting 3 of one plant I think is pretty perfect. Going to have like maybe 5-10 of these total (I have to figure out what plants I'm going to start this year), so time to start cranking them out with the different PLA's I have.
Generally really awesome layer consistency... and then those occasional blemishes. This is with a spool that's just been standing in a shelf for a year
I'm going to print a bunch of test cubes with some random filaments I've had just sitting open in a shelf for various lengths of time, and then crack open the samples I got with the printer to compare. Got really curious about this now.
Aren’t those just the start / end points of each layer?
Usually, slicers try to hide them in a corner, but since your spacer is round and you’re (likely) using random start position, they’re positioned all over.
Posts
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Upgrades:
MicroSwiss All-Metal HotEnd
Bondtech CHP .4mm Nozzle
Yellow Springs
Aluminum Extruder
Mars Orbiter Fan Shroud
Raspberry Pi 4b with 5" screen for Klipper/Fluidd/Klipperscreen
I'm still terrible at actually modeling my own stuff so I mostly use thingiverse / thangs to find what I need. I've printed TONS of stuff, though and have managed some really cool prints. I love print-in-place stuff so I spent some time making sure my tolerances were spot on so I can manage all the cool clearance tests.
I think my next project is going to be a CoreXY rig of some flavor (I'm really liking the look of the Seckit SK-TANK) because now I want SPEEEEDDDD. The other ones I've looked at are the Rat Rig Core-3 and the Voron 2.4 . The SK-TANK just seems like a much simpler process than trying to self-source a Voron.
For your own Steam Signature visit https://alabasterslim.com/steam-signatures/
Guild Wars 2: Kendrik.5984
Are you running a bltouch or equivalent? That combined with either the Jyer's Marlin firmware or Klipper lets you create a bed mesh that allows the printer to compensate quite effectively for non-flat print surfaces.
https://github.com/Jyers/Marlin
eta: You can also use Jyers to create the bed mesh manually using the "paper test" at multiple points.
For your own Steam Signature visit https://alabasterslim.com/steam-signatures/
Guild Wars 2: Kendrik.5984
Hmm, might give that a shot. Got no bltouch, so manual it is (when I can be arsed to try it).
Also I guess I just ordered a Prusa Mini+. Tis the season, etc.
3DS: 1289-8447-4695
Very long story short, after 3 days of troubleshooting, it turns out my filament was such a shittty bargin brand it was causing the issues I had.
I actually did get an official Creality glass bed.
Guess what, it wasn't flat either. Better than the original bed though.
I’m still a little floored over the improvement With the Prusa over the Ender. Just… damn.
The left looks like really big print lines, but the right one looks crazy clean by comparison.
To be fair, the Ender was printing on .28, and the Prusa is printing on .20. The Ender one was sliced on Cura and the Prusa one was done on PrusaSlicer. Otherwise pretty similar settings and temps (the Prusa is going a little faster by default). Both with .4mm nozzles. No ironing on either.
And the actual feel of the Ender's prints are great. They feel decently smooth, but the layer lines are always super visible and a little gnarly in spots, even with a matte filament.
Then this morning I got an E1 error on my Ender 3 Pro. Hot end isn't heating. Hopefully its just the heater cartridge or the themistor, as those are pretty cheap and Amazon can get them here by next week.
Twuck!
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
Basically, it is a really tacky surface to print on, and will help with bed adhesion problems on heated or unheated beds. It'll make it so you don't need to use painter's tape or gluesticks to get your print to stick. They stand up to a decent amount of use, and when they stop sticking well, you just peel it off and replace it with another.
However, a PEI sheet is only going to really help you if your problem is bed adhesion (e.g., your prints either completely fail to start on the first layer or they pull off the bed mid-print).
Here's a couple items on PEI sheets:
https://all3dp.com/2/pei-sheet-as-a-3d-printer-print-bed-sheet-a-guide/
https://www.technipages.com/3d-printing-basics-what-is-a-pei-sheet
If you're having other problems, then you'll need a different solution; so, what's eating yah?
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
(though I still wish the print head was smaller, if things are being fiddly I always end up having to tip my head sideways to be able to see what's actually happening at the nozzle)
Build plate not level with screen.
Build plate not close enough to screen for curing to adhere to plate (wrong z height calibration).
Build plate too close to screen so first layer too thin and weak to pull away from film (wrong z height calibration).
Not having extra cure time for first layer (10x normal layers).
I emailed her this image and said that we tried, but just couldn't get them to print properly. She was very understanding. Later I tried printing some keychain designs that we regularly give out to people, and they printed perfectly. They had also been screwing up the day before, so I decided to give one more try on the earrings. They printed perfectly as well. Sometimes it feels like there's no rhyme or reason to why this printer screws things up. I hadn't made any adjustments to the machine since my arrival in the morning when I lowered the Z-height offset setting.
Anyway, emailed the lady again with the good news and she showed up like 2 minutes before closing to pick them up. Plus she grabbed a bunch of the failures from our failure tray.
My Backloggery
Dang, this nut+screw from the demo files on the USB stick is an excellent fidget toy.
Honestly, sometimes it’s just a bad section/batch of filament. I’ve definitely been there before where it just magically starts working better with a fresh roll, or even just a few meters deeper into the current roll.
That said, I also have a pile of PLA spools on my shelves that have been open for over a year and when I occasionally grab one to use it prints every bit as well as ones from the dry box. So, while it may be more of an issue with some filaments (maybe PETG? Definitely Nylon), I think the exposure to humidity issue might be a little overemphasized for PLA, at least.
I had a bin with one of those bigger desiccant bowl things, but that somehow got knocked over and weird liquid was sitting at the bottom of the container.
Maybe I'll look at seed starting stuff or something to use this current spool up.
Yeah, I'm absolutely no authority on the subject but I've never had problems with PLA that has been standing in the shelf for years.
There’s a ton of variables for sure. Like, if your room is regularly much more humid than the 35-45% mine sits at, that could be a big factor. Could be the brands of filament too. I almost exclusively use Microcenter/Inland and Overture for PLA, and have had great luck even with super old filament. Some printers could also theoretically be more or less sensitive to wetter filament, depending on the style of hotend, diameter of nozzle, etc.
I bought a couple of dry boxes for my PETG, but I haven’t printed anything in it yet so they’re still sealed.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
My Backloggery
Since it fits on my mini. Works pretty well since starting 3 of one plant I think is pretty perfect. Going to have like maybe 5-10 of these total (I have to figure out what plants I'm going to start this year), so time to start cranking them out with the different PLA's I have.
Generally really awesome layer consistency... and then those occasional blemishes. This is with a spool that's just been standing in a shelf for a year
I'm going to print a bunch of test cubes with some random filaments I've had just sitting open in a shelf for various lengths of time, and then crack open the samples I got with the printer to compare. Got really curious about this now.
Usually, slicers try to hide them in a corner, but since your spacer is round and you’re (likely) using random start position, they’re positioned all over.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Grabbed my oldest spool and I'm on attempt #2 of a XYZ cube right now. First one visibly curved and detached.
edit: #2 is visibly lifted but still stuck.