I think it plays close to XCom. What turned me off was the unending dialog. I understand it's a whole setting/universe but JFC just shut up and let me move units.
I think it plays close to XCom. What turned me off was the unending dialog. I understand it's a whole setting/universe but JFC just shut up and let me move units.
Awww, I thought the unending dialogue was one of the best parts. The sounds they chose and the soundtrack, specifically, are really good, but the ongoing disputes between the different tech priests throughout the campaign was one of the high points for me.
I sorta want to see @Orivon's spreadsheet at this point. Must be insane. Thank you very much.
@destroyah87 is taking things I said out of context to gift me "Flowers -Le volume sur automne-" from my wishlist. I'd be more annoyed but well. I like yuri stories. Thank you.
More Motorsport Manager monologues; material made manageable might motivate minuscule members.
So, Head Start for Hawkins is complete. Basically, win the team championship without being able to upgrade parts often and in a poor situation regarding sponsorship. The car starts out as a top two or three, but there is only $45k to start. And team marketability starts at zero. Marketability affects the quality of the sponsors available from one to five stars. This affects the amounts offered from sponsors and for a team with basically no money, it will be a struggle. But, that is not to say that upgrading parts is impossible. You can go into negative funds, but go too far into debt and the owner won't let you spend any more. Fortunately, the main drivers are good and you'll be running up front for many races. Onto the strategies...
The first thing is fire the reserve driver and hire a pay driver named Frankey Kinney. You don't need to scout her to sign her and you want her to join ASAP. It will cost ~300k to release the reserve, but you will make that back and more with Kinney. She pays you as much as $900k to drive for you, but that is if she drives in the race. But if you use her for practice, you'll gain $450k. She doesn't care about team status or pay rate and wants a long contract. I think she also wants a signing bonus, but it doesn't need to be too high. Offer her Reserve status, a contract length that matches her desire, pay per race that is near the level of the former reserve driver, and a signing bonus no greater than halfway on the slider. What basically happens is you are actually just cutting the driver salaries down to nearly nothing. It would normally cost you about $525k per race and this sets it around $60k. Technically, the game doesn't count it until after the race, so don't worry about what it says when you select the race sponsor.
With sponsor deals, it's a little harder. Early on you aren't getting many offers because marketability is so low. Wait until the day of the race before selecting any new sponsor so you can see if you get a better deal to choose from. Don't be afraid to not select anybody because a better offer might come after the upcoming race. And the offers expire after two races, so you might be leaving open slots for a while. But try and sign the highest per race payment you can get. And if it comes with an up front payment, so much the better. Cost per race starts out around $1.25m and you want to eventually get that down to around $500k so you can make a small profit per race. After a couple of races the marketability climbs enough that you'll get more offers per slot. The goal is to raise it to two stars, but that probably won't happen until mid-season. The key will be brevity. Unless the pay per race is approaching $500k then stick to deals that will expire in four or five races. You want to be in a better position to pick from and it will allow you to get a new infusion of cash later on.
Basically, the per race payout should be as high as possible with the up front payment a secondary consideration. The per race sponsor payment should be to pick an initial offer that pays the most for a mid pack finish unless you are confident in you ability to qualify/finish top two. And once you have your bread and butter sponsor, then pick the offer with the highest up front payout for an immediate infusion of cash for upgrades. But, there will be two or three sponsors that have a 'home' race and will pay two times or more for meeting the objective. If you allow the offer to expire or pick something else, they'll be re-offered, but make sure the slot is available for Russia, Germany, and Japan to maximise payments. That effort isn't really required, but it can make a difference later in the season.
As to the car, the engine and gearbox are top 1 or 2 at the start. Both wings, the brakes, and suspension are more middle of the pack. As mentioned before, concentrate on maxing out the reliability for part stripping during the races and then work on the performance. Check the calendar two or three races ahead and pick either of the wings or suspension to upgrade so it can be maxed out before the needed race. Don't bother building any new brakes. You'd have to build at least two new brake parts to get anywhere near the level of performance you already have and that money is more useful for the other three. Both drivers are Equal Status so spread out the new parts to keep them both in the green. As you win or finish higher than the expected 8th (as ranked by team finish, not individual finish) you'll increase your marketability and thus eventually boost the quality of the sponsors gaining you more cash to upgrade more parts.
Both my drivers finished on the podium for the first nine races except for two where one of them crashed out early. It's mainly about earning as many points in the beginning of the season when your car is top quality so you can keep other teams at bay when they start surpassing you.
Around race seven or eight when you can all but guarantee race victories, you can ask the owner for a one time payment of funds. A little over $3m. This should allow you to upgrade your engine and gearbox to keep them competitive in later races. The owner's happiness drops by 50%, but I won the next race and it maxed out again.
Race strategies are basically strip weight to ~75% for all the parts. Go to 70% for the brakes since they have a red zone at 10% instead of 20. Set 'crucial' parts to 80%. This is to severely decrease the chances of part failure late in the race. Lower the starting fuel by six or seven laps. This will give you extra speed early in the race, but requires you to manage your fuel. Medium engine mode will gain a lap of fuel every 10 or so laps, but the real key is to use the hybrid mode to increase fuel savings. Charge the battery to at least 50% and then turn hybrid on and gain those laps back. Though, waiting for the halfway point and 100% can also be useful to squeeze extra speed out of the car. I typically ran Medium until about halfway and then High to finish the race. Once you have about +1 lap of fuel you can turn the ERS to Auto On and let the drivers engage at will. But they'll use hybrid often times so you can force it off if you want. I was typically out in front by 15+ seconds so it didn't matter to me.
Try and get at least ten race wins and the other driver finishing on the podium to max out the points needed. I finished the season with around a 300 point differential and had mathematically wrapped it up around race 11 (of 16), but you have to complete the whole thing so it can be tedious down the stretch knowing you've won already.
The unlock is the Nippon Motors investor for the career which would allow you to build parts with one risky component and you'll never be penalised for it. (A second risky component would then act as if you had a single one normally.)
Next up is Surging Absurdity. Win the GT Team champsionship with an ERS that harvests 0% in first, 200% in last, and adjusted for each position for every other place.
...no points for guessing which side of this conflict I'd come down on.
NCVSD is... I think you'd call it a lane tower defense game? You get five lanes, with five buildable positions, one on each lane. Your goal is to create enough in the way of warriors and to distribute them in such a way that you counter the enemy's units and proceed to destroy the barricade at their end of the lane on three out of five lanes.
You can build different kinds of units, you can learn tactics, you can learn magic to destroy and heal... pretty much it's just a simple little tower defense game, and well... I kind of like it for the subject matter, but not much else. It's like- I don't mind the skirmishes so much, but they're essentially a puzzle level between big clashes- for example, the first one provides you with a ranged attacker up against a melee attack unit of the enemy's. If you send the ranged down the same lane as the melee, the ranged will more than likely get the snot beat out of it. You have to remember that ranged attackers can hit a target from an adjacent lane and send the attacker down that way.
There are two campaigns here- one as the cats, one as the dogs, though both are incredibly similar because the units work pretty much the same- there's some minor graphical changes and that's about all..
Difficulty, well... it can catch up with you pretty darn fast. The game does offer multiple paths to get to the end, but at the same time, I don't know how much XP there is to be had in the game. Is there enough to grind out every single thing on the skill tree, or do you need to figure a build before you start and then just stick to it? But I think my big thing is there's no real way to grind XP- each battle has a set amount of XP you can earn and that's it- no grinding; if you make a terrible build choice on your tree, you have to start over. I very, very much dislike game design like this- allow your player a bit of freedom to clean up after themselves on build mistakes, and you get a rep as a game with a non-punishing new player experience- stuff like this is just kind of mean and not very well needed.
It's five bucks retail, and well... I'll keep it installed for when I want to tinker with a game like this. It scratches the itch pretty well enough, but... I'm not all that enthused about it, you know? I mean, it's still fun, but if you were to give me a choice between this and something else... I'd likely choose the something else.
On the plus side, I've gotten better at dodging cardboard shuriken and origami katanas- OW!
...never mind. Hoo, let's get out of here before they figure out how to make chariots out of the sliding chairs... where now?
376) Puzzle Agent
...and monocolor again. Now I can't even tell if this is the cheezburger with the white cheddar or the regular cheddar... sheesh...
And that was more than I'd thought it would be, so here's some ProTips for Practice and Qualifying.
Your practice tactics should focus mainly on the car setup. Trying to get each area to Excellent (purple face) and at 98-99%. Two purples and a green (Great) are acceptable since fiddling around to get that extra bit can be frustrating. A high driver feedback is very helpful. The one think about Kinney is that her feedback is 14, which is near the same quality as the driver (Dias) who is at a 16. The feedback is about trying to quickly narrow the space for setting up the car and to speed up the knowledge gained for later in-race bonuses. The greater the practice time you get, the easier this is. But that's a rule you likely have to change during GMA voting (or assigned by default for a challenge).
The knowledge gained during practice can be key to better finishes during the race. I generally focus on Race Trim since that is good for the entire race rather than Qualifying Trim for just, well, guess. Also, pick the tire compound you expect to use most during the race. Pay attention to the race length and your expected tire performance to figure the best way to plan pit strategies. I try to aim for being nearly as fast on a slightly slower compound to be able to run farther per stint during the race to take advantage of AI pit stops. But if the rules require a refuel, consider the tire performance relative to that. 40% fuel likely requires two pit stops. Plan accordingly.
With a high enough Feedback and 20 minute practice sessions, you can have both drivers run different stints to gain a race and qualifying bonus. But a shorter amount of time, or tracks that take longer to complete laps, might make that more difficult. So I focus on Race Stints. And to try and get the most out of the car setup I run Out Lap/In Lap and just focus on getting the actual stint feedback to adjust rather than concerning myself with a lap time. There are no bonus points for doing well in practice so concentrate on making the car the best it can be. And using a reserve driver during practice will not affect the car setup for the regular driver. It's about the car, not the driver. (Reasons to use the reserve might be higher Feedback, being a Pay Driver, or getting work in for a young driver to gain skill points. They earn nothing extra if they don't drive at all.)
Out/In laps can get up to four stints for 10 minute sessions. And if qualifying exists for the race series, you can use those opportunities to fine tune even further. Both cars will not use the same exact setup (they may if they are using the exact same parts, though I've never tested that) and even if you save a perfect setup the year before, it may not be as good this year. But they'll be close either way and it's a start. During the stint, the driver will comment on the current setup. If they want more or less of something, the setup isn't very close. If they just say they like it, it's probably 'good'. Things like 'spot on' or 'perfect probably mean an 'Excellent' setup or very close.
Excellent setups are a narrow space between two 'Great' spots. Think of it like a bell curve. If you or on Great and not sure where Excellent is, try adjusting one tick (or 0.5 total degrees on the wings) in either direction and see. You can hover over previous setups to see where they were before to get an idea which direction worked or might work better.
And pay attention to the weather forecast. You might want to practice on Inters or Wets to gain the performance bonuses for them during a potentially wet race. Every little bit helps. Things like air temperature and sun versus cloudy can affect tire performance during qualifying and the race, but I tend to ignore that since it's a bit too micro-managey.
With the right setup, qualifying is relatively simple. First, there is a mini-game to try and maximise the brake and tire temps. If you get good at it, you can really see a difference in qualifying runs. But I usually just turn it to Auto On. Especially if I'm going to run both cars at the same time. Once you set it On or Off, it will work that way for the rest of the session. But multiple sessions require switching it back on or off.
Try and time your drivers to have clear track in front and behind them during their qualifying runs. Nearby cars will slow them down as it would during a race. And try and time a final run so that the hot lap starts just before session time expires. There is usually the maximum track grip, which can mean a few tenths of a second, and the track might be generally clear as the rest of the field is either pitting or far in front of you. Factor in how long it takes to leave the garage for the track and add that time, plus two seconds for changing to a better set if tires, to your current lap time and leave the pit no later than that plus ~5 seconds. Garage and pit stalls are assigned due to current team standings for the season and depending on the track it could make a big difference. Being in the first stall can be either at the very beginning of the pits of the very end and those seconds add up. Up to twenty five on some tracks.
When practicing and qualifying. Try to keep at least three sets of each tire at 100% (by not using them) so you can really take advantage during a race. If the series allows you to select your sets rather than assigning them, then pick them with that in mind. I'll run one set of tires to 50% or less during practice trying to maximise the tire bonus for the race or qualifying and even use that set for the first run of qualifying just to save the other sets. You can lose 5 to 10% of the tire life during a qualifying run (out/hot/in) and while that isn't a huge issue, that is two to three laps during their fastest period.
I typically would want to select 6/5/4 (fast/middle/slow) and that works for me. But adjust how it would fit your particular style.
Non-trim and tire bonuses can vary based on individual race mechanics and their relationship with their assigned driver. Some may be more useful than others. Like longer tire wear, greater fuel economy, or even less overall wear on the car. Some are only good for wet weather, or faster pit stops, or whatever. So choose based on your preferences.
Thanks @JaysonFour for Your Breast Friend Sally! As a fan of the monstergirl genre, I am of course super excited to play a lewd game about a cowgirl. Can't wait to check it out!
Posts
I'm doomed.
Send help.
Awww, I thought the unending dialogue was one of the best parts. The sounds they chose and the soundtrack, specifically, are really good, but the ongoing disputes between the different tech priests throughout the campaign was one of the high points for me.
Just remember, if you want to take a break from BG3 Solasta: Crown of the Magister is coming out tomorrow.
Thanks for the gifting, dude!
Twitch: KoopahTroopah - Steam: Koopah
Never heard of it. Have to go take a look and se--
Dammit.
I can't send this to @Isorn because it is blocked by the euroshield, but it will affect him in another way.
Thank you @destroyah87!
🖥️Steam Profile
This fucking section ahhhh
@destroyah87 is taking things I said out of context to gift me "Flowers -Le volume sur automne-" from my wishlist. I'd be more annoyed but well. I like yuri stories. Thank you.
AniList
Legends of Runeterra: MNCdover #moc
Switch ID: MNC Dover SW-1154-3107-1051
Steam ID
Twitch Page
... lewds were had.
Thanks!
Now... umm... back to focusing on Isorn, yes?
3DS Friend Code: 2165-6448-8348 www.Twitch.TV/cooljammer00
Battle.Net: JohnDarc#1203 Origin/UPlay: CoolJammer00
Inconceivable!
Lies.
I mean, technically. But only because there's sometimes often one that just came out.
3DS: 0473-8507-2652
Switch: SW-5185-4991-5118
PSN: AbEntropy
They're Schrodinger's lewds. Pixie does not own them but also does because someone is about to gift them to her.
Steam Profile
3DS: 3454-0268-5595 Battle.net: SteelAngel#1772
Huh. They got permission to use DND 5.1 rules and everything! And it launches in fifteen hours!
I expect it’ll end up in Pixie’s backlog in fifteen hours and one minute, then. :P
But BG3 being modable? Yeah, that just got moved to a buy from a maybe for me, especially if it means home-made adventures.
I can has cheezburger, yes?
And I have D&D today!
Time to dig out the one that works, but the left ear and mic detached!
So, Head Start for Hawkins is complete. Basically, win the team championship without being able to upgrade parts often and in a poor situation regarding sponsorship. The car starts out as a top two or three, but there is only $45k to start. And team marketability starts at zero. Marketability affects the quality of the sponsors available from one to five stars. This affects the amounts offered from sponsors and for a team with basically no money, it will be a struggle. But, that is not to say that upgrading parts is impossible. You can go into negative funds, but go too far into debt and the owner won't let you spend any more. Fortunately, the main drivers are good and you'll be running up front for many races. Onto the strategies...
The first thing is fire the reserve driver and hire a pay driver named Frankey Kinney. You don't need to scout her to sign her and you want her to join ASAP. It will cost ~300k to release the reserve, but you will make that back and more with Kinney. She pays you as much as $900k to drive for you, but that is if she drives in the race. But if you use her for practice, you'll gain $450k. She doesn't care about team status or pay rate and wants a long contract. I think she also wants a signing bonus, but it doesn't need to be too high. Offer her Reserve status, a contract length that matches her desire, pay per race that is near the level of the former reserve driver, and a signing bonus no greater than halfway on the slider. What basically happens is you are actually just cutting the driver salaries down to nearly nothing. It would normally cost you about $525k per race and this sets it around $60k. Technically, the game doesn't count it until after the race, so don't worry about what it says when you select the race sponsor.
With sponsor deals, it's a little harder. Early on you aren't getting many offers because marketability is so low. Wait until the day of the race before selecting any new sponsor so you can see if you get a better deal to choose from. Don't be afraid to not select anybody because a better offer might come after the upcoming race. And the offers expire after two races, so you might be leaving open slots for a while. But try and sign the highest per race payment you can get. And if it comes with an up front payment, so much the better. Cost per race starts out around $1.25m and you want to eventually get that down to around $500k so you can make a small profit per race. After a couple of races the marketability climbs enough that you'll get more offers per slot. The goal is to raise it to two stars, but that probably won't happen until mid-season. The key will be brevity. Unless the pay per race is approaching $500k then stick to deals that will expire in four or five races. You want to be in a better position to pick from and it will allow you to get a new infusion of cash later on.
Basically, the per race payout should be as high as possible with the up front payment a secondary consideration. The per race sponsor payment should be to pick an initial offer that pays the most for a mid pack finish unless you are confident in you ability to qualify/finish top two. And once you have your bread and butter sponsor, then pick the offer with the highest up front payout for an immediate infusion of cash for upgrades. But, there will be two or three sponsors that have a 'home' race and will pay two times or more for meeting the objective. If you allow the offer to expire or pick something else, they'll be re-offered, but make sure the slot is available for Russia, Germany, and Japan to maximise payments. That effort isn't really required, but it can make a difference later in the season.
As to the car, the engine and gearbox are top 1 or 2 at the start. Both wings, the brakes, and suspension are more middle of the pack. As mentioned before, concentrate on maxing out the reliability for part stripping during the races and then work on the performance. Check the calendar two or three races ahead and pick either of the wings or suspension to upgrade so it can be maxed out before the needed race. Don't bother building any new brakes. You'd have to build at least two new brake parts to get anywhere near the level of performance you already have and that money is more useful for the other three. Both drivers are Equal Status so spread out the new parts to keep them both in the green. As you win or finish higher than the expected 8th (as ranked by team finish, not individual finish) you'll increase your marketability and thus eventually boost the quality of the sponsors gaining you more cash to upgrade more parts.
Both my drivers finished on the podium for the first nine races except for two where one of them crashed out early. It's mainly about earning as many points in the beginning of the season when your car is top quality so you can keep other teams at bay when they start surpassing you.
Around race seven or eight when you can all but guarantee race victories, you can ask the owner for a one time payment of funds. A little over $3m. This should allow you to upgrade your engine and gearbox to keep them competitive in later races. The owner's happiness drops by 50%, but I won the next race and it maxed out again.
Race strategies are basically strip weight to ~75% for all the parts. Go to 70% for the brakes since they have a red zone at 10% instead of 20. Set 'crucial' parts to 80%. This is to severely decrease the chances of part failure late in the race. Lower the starting fuel by six or seven laps. This will give you extra speed early in the race, but requires you to manage your fuel. Medium engine mode will gain a lap of fuel every 10 or so laps, but the real key is to use the hybrid mode to increase fuel savings. Charge the battery to at least 50% and then turn hybrid on and gain those laps back. Though, waiting for the halfway point and 100% can also be useful to squeeze extra speed out of the car. I typically ran Medium until about halfway and then High to finish the race. Once you have about +1 lap of fuel you can turn the ERS to Auto On and let the drivers engage at will. But they'll use hybrid often times so you can force it off if you want. I was typically out in front by 15+ seconds so it didn't matter to me.
Try and get at least ten race wins and the other driver finishing on the podium to max out the points needed. I finished the season with around a 300 point differential and had mathematically wrapped it up around race 11 (of 16), but you have to complete the whole thing so it can be tedious down the stretch knowing you've won already.
The unlock is the Nippon Motors investor for the career which would allow you to build parts with one risky component and you'll never be penalised for it. (A second risky component would then act as if you had a single one normally.)
Next up is Surging Absurdity. Win the GT Team champsionship with an ERS that harvests 0% in first, 200% in last, and adjusted for each position for every other place.
Retail: $4.99
...no points for guessing which side of this conflict I'd come down on.
NCVSD is... I think you'd call it a lane tower defense game? You get five lanes, with five buildable positions, one on each lane. Your goal is to create enough in the way of warriors and to distribute them in such a way that you counter the enemy's units and proceed to destroy the barricade at their end of the lane on three out of five lanes.
You can build different kinds of units, you can learn tactics, you can learn magic to destroy and heal... pretty much it's just a simple little tower defense game, and well... I kind of like it for the subject matter, but not much else. It's like- I don't mind the skirmishes so much, but they're essentially a puzzle level between big clashes- for example, the first one provides you with a ranged attacker up against a melee attack unit of the enemy's. If you send the ranged down the same lane as the melee, the ranged will more than likely get the snot beat out of it. You have to remember that ranged attackers can hit a target from an adjacent lane and send the attacker down that way.
There are two campaigns here- one as the cats, one as the dogs, though both are incredibly similar because the units work pretty much the same- there's some minor graphical changes and that's about all..
Difficulty, well... it can catch up with you pretty darn fast. The game does offer multiple paths to get to the end, but at the same time, I don't know how much XP there is to be had in the game. Is there enough to grind out every single thing on the skill tree, or do you need to figure a build before you start and then just stick to it? But I think my big thing is there's no real way to grind XP- each battle has a set amount of XP you can earn and that's it- no grinding; if you make a terrible build choice on your tree, you have to start over. I very, very much dislike game design like this- allow your player a bit of freedom to clean up after themselves on build mistakes, and you get a rep as a game with a non-punishing new player experience- stuff like this is just kind of mean and not very well needed.
It's five bucks retail, and well... I'll keep it installed for when I want to tinker with a game like this. It scratches the itch pretty well enough, but... I'm not all that enthused about it, you know? I mean, it's still fun, but if you were to give me a choice between this and something else... I'd likely choose the something else.
On the plus side, I've gotten better at dodging cardboard shuriken and origami katanas- OW!
...never mind. Hoo, let's get out of here before they figure out how to make chariots out of the sliding chairs... where now?
376) Puzzle Agent
...and monocolor again. Now I can't even tell if this is the cheezburger with the white cheddar or the regular cheddar... sheesh...
I can has cheezburger, yes?
The knowledge gained during practice can be key to better finishes during the race. I generally focus on Race Trim since that is good for the entire race rather than Qualifying Trim for just, well, guess. Also, pick the tire compound you expect to use most during the race. Pay attention to the race length and your expected tire performance to figure the best way to plan pit strategies. I try to aim for being nearly as fast on a slightly slower compound to be able to run farther per stint during the race to take advantage of AI pit stops. But if the rules require a refuel, consider the tire performance relative to that. 40% fuel likely requires two pit stops. Plan accordingly.
With a high enough Feedback and 20 minute practice sessions, you can have both drivers run different stints to gain a race and qualifying bonus. But a shorter amount of time, or tracks that take longer to complete laps, might make that more difficult. So I focus on Race Stints. And to try and get the most out of the car setup I run Out Lap/In Lap and just focus on getting the actual stint feedback to adjust rather than concerning myself with a lap time. There are no bonus points for doing well in practice so concentrate on making the car the best it can be. And using a reserve driver during practice will not affect the car setup for the regular driver. It's about the car, not the driver. (Reasons to use the reserve might be higher Feedback, being a Pay Driver, or getting work in for a young driver to gain skill points. They earn nothing extra if they don't drive at all.)
Out/In laps can get up to four stints for 10 minute sessions. And if qualifying exists for the race series, you can use those opportunities to fine tune even further. Both cars will not use the same exact setup (they may if they are using the exact same parts, though I've never tested that) and even if you save a perfect setup the year before, it may not be as good this year. But they'll be close either way and it's a start. During the stint, the driver will comment on the current setup. If they want more or less of something, the setup isn't very close. If they just say they like it, it's probably 'good'. Things like 'spot on' or 'perfect probably mean an 'Excellent' setup or very close.
Excellent setups are a narrow space between two 'Great' spots. Think of it like a bell curve. If you or on Great and not sure where Excellent is, try adjusting one tick (or 0.5 total degrees on the wings) in either direction and see. You can hover over previous setups to see where they were before to get an idea which direction worked or might work better.
And pay attention to the weather forecast. You might want to practice on Inters or Wets to gain the performance bonuses for them during a potentially wet race. Every little bit helps. Things like air temperature and sun versus cloudy can affect tire performance during qualifying and the race, but I tend to ignore that since it's a bit too micro-managey.
With the right setup, qualifying is relatively simple. First, there is a mini-game to try and maximise the brake and tire temps. If you get good at it, you can really see a difference in qualifying runs. But I usually just turn it to Auto On. Especially if I'm going to run both cars at the same time. Once you set it On or Off, it will work that way for the rest of the session. But multiple sessions require switching it back on or off.
Try and time your drivers to have clear track in front and behind them during their qualifying runs. Nearby cars will slow them down as it would during a race. And try and time a final run so that the hot lap starts just before session time expires. There is usually the maximum track grip, which can mean a few tenths of a second, and the track might be generally clear as the rest of the field is either pitting or far in front of you. Factor in how long it takes to leave the garage for the track and add that time, plus two seconds for changing to a better set if tires, to your current lap time and leave the pit no later than that plus ~5 seconds. Garage and pit stalls are assigned due to current team standings for the season and depending on the track it could make a big difference. Being in the first stall can be either at the very beginning of the pits of the very end and those seconds add up. Up to twenty five on some tracks.
When practicing and qualifying. Try to keep at least three sets of each tire at 100% (by not using them) so you can really take advantage during a race. If the series allows you to select your sets rather than assigning them, then pick them with that in mind. I'll run one set of tires to 50% or less during practice trying to maximise the tire bonus for the race or qualifying and even use that set for the first run of qualifying just to save the other sets. You can lose 5 to 10% of the tire life during a qualifying run (out/hot/in) and while that isn't a huge issue, that is two to three laps during their fastest period.
I typically would want to select 6/5/4 (fast/middle/slow) and that works for me. But adjust how it would fit your particular style.
Non-trim and tire bonuses can vary based on individual race mechanics and their relationship with their assigned driver. Some may be more useful than others. Like longer tire wear, greater fuel economy, or even less overall wear on the car. Some are only good for wet weather, or faster pit stops, or whatever. So choose based on your preferences.
Puzzle Agent was for kids? :?
Hmm. My laptop's ATI Vega Mobile 6GB thingy is the equivalent of the minimum requirements for BG3. Hmm. Interesting.
That game spooked the shit out of me. It's not NOT for kids, but like, it's not FOR kids.
Do kids like Twin Peaks?
3DS Friend Code: 2165-6448-8348 www.Twitch.TV/cooljammer00
Battle.Net: JohnDarc#1203 Origin/UPlay: CoolJammer00
Thanks @KoopahTroopah for Vermintide 2 - Shadows Over Bögenhafen DLC!
🖥️Steam Profile
Thanks again!
Blackula won after using most of the floor for cover and feeding on half the people, and using another segment of the population as shields.
But several floors up, blackula made an unlucky teleport and got hit by a train.
http://www.fallout3nexus.com/downloads/file.php?id=16534
Steam profile - Twitch - YouTube
Switch: SM-6352-8553-6516
Steam | XBL
BRB binge-watching Twin Peaks with my 4 year old.
It actually took 20 minutes after the release time for me to buy it (because I'm at work and wasn't watching the clock).
And I even managed to buy it before any monsters could gift it. Woooo! Beated the giftmonsters!
I haven't even gotten to this part of Hat in Time yet, and now I don't want to.
3DS Friend Code: 2165-6448-8348 www.Twitch.TV/cooljammer00
Battle.Net: JohnDarc#1203 Origin/UPlay: CoolJammer00
Proof that the @Orivon and @Isorn war has distracted everybody. Pixie now gifts herself to get attention.
Steam: betsuni7
It's exaggerating a bit, but the creepy haunted house section is a bit out of tone for the rest of it.
3DS: 0473-8507-2652
Switch: SW-5185-4991-5118
PSN: AbEntropy