Anyone undervolt their 3080? Has it helped thermals much? I noticed while playing AC: Origins that it's getting up to 78c which seems pretty normal but all the case fans in my O11 Dynamic XL kick on to high which gets really loud.
Yeah, undervolting actually let me push the clocks up a hair, since it was throttling it when it kept hitting 83
I pushed the clocks without undervolting. How far did you manage to get by undervolting?
I lost the silicon lottery, so only like 1875, but by comparison, it was downclockign to the 1700s when it hit the thermal ceiling
afterburner is generally the go-to unless you've got an important reason not to. for example, msi afterburner currently only can control 2 of the 3 fans on my card, so i'm forced to use evga's software so as not to lose a fan
Anyone undervolt their 3080? Has it helped thermals much? I noticed while playing AC: Origins that it's getting up to 78c which seems pretty normal but all the case fans in my O11 Dynamic XL kick on to high which gets really loud.
Yeah, undervolting actually let me push the clocks up a hair, since it was throttling it when it kept hitting 83
I pushed the clocks without undervolting. How far did you manage to get by undervolting?
I lost the silicon lottery, so only like 1875, but by comparison, it was downclockign to the 1700s when it hit the thermal ceiling
Huh, bummer. Well, on the bright side, even at 1700, the 3080 is pretty awesome, so you have that going for you.
Anyone undervolt their 3080? Has it helped thermals much? I noticed while playing AC: Origins that it's getting up to 78c which seems pretty normal but all the case fans in my O11 Dynamic XL kick on to high which gets really loud.
Change your fan curves if they are getting too loud. A lot of motherboards come with really aggressive curves on their PWM headers. Also most motherboards base their fan speed on CPU temp not GPU, unless you're using some other controller mechanism like software or a hardware controller to base the curves on GPU temperature.
78C on a modern GPU isn't really a big deal at all.
Anyone undervolt their 3080? Has it helped thermals much? I noticed while playing AC: Origins that it's getting up to 78c which seems pretty normal but all the case fans in my O11 Dynamic XL kick on to high which gets really loud.
Yeah, undervolting actually let me push the clocks up a hair, since it was throttling it when it kept hitting 83
I pushed the clocks without undervolting. How far did you manage to get by undervolting?
I lost the silicon lottery, so only like 1875, but by comparison, it was downclockign to the 1700s when it hit the thermal ceiling
Huh, bummer. Well, on the bright side, even at 1700, the 3080 is pretty awesome, so you have that going for you.
Well, on the plus side I'm in the step up queue, so maybe in a year or two I can get a reroll on the silicon lottery....for a couple hundred bucks
Walmart cancelled my CPU order last week, so back to the search. UPS finally sent money to Phanteks so that they could ship me a replacement case for the one that was misdelivered and porch-thieved a few months ago.
...and ASUS's web store is absolute shit.
Anyone know what NewEgg is planning re: their recent tweet? or is it just another case of Lucy pulling the ball away from Charlie Brown at the last minute? my understanding is that they've been teasing a "solution" for months.
Also, what is everyone else doing in regards to buying other parts that are in stock that aren't the CPU/GPU? I've been tempted to pull the trigger on the AIO that I want, but I figure there isn't much point until I get the CPU. Though would it be a good idea to buy a regular air cooler just to have as a backup in case the AIO fails? Same with the NVMe drives. No point in getting them till I have at least the CPU? I did finally get off the fence and purchased the RAM I wanted, but that was only because of the lifetime warranty and that prices have been rising. I did manage to snag the ASUS Dark Hero mobo recently. Damn it's purty.
Anyone know what NewEgg is planning re: their recent tweet? or is it just another case of Lucy pulling the ball away from Charlie Brown at the last minute? my understanding is that they've been teasing a "solution" for months.
I got curious, so I looked at their twitter feed again.
In before the solution is to bundle GPUs with a dozen roses? wtf?
Anyone undervolt their 3080? Has it helped thermals much? I noticed while playing AC: Origins that it's getting up to 78c which seems pretty normal but all the case fans in my O11 Dynamic XL kick on to high which gets really loud.
When I first got my founders edition I set it to 850mv and 1860 core in afterburner and power usage dropped between 50 and 70 watts and temps were in the mid 50s while gaming. I adjusted the fan curve to more or less be in line with temp. So 50c would lead to 50% fan usage and so on.
I've been tinkering with it today and I have settled on 2000mhz core set to 900mv. My mem is set to +500mhz. I've run port royal a ton of times and gamed a bunch to test stability and haven't had an issue. Temps are in the low to mid 50s with the same fan curve as before while gaming.
Playing Cyberpunk at 1440p with RT set to Psycho and DLSS on quality and it pretty much stays at 60fps.
Stock Settings and score of 11,234
850mv and 1860 core and score of 11,095
900mv and 2000 core and score of 11,818
I'm going to tinker some more and see if I can lower the core voltage even further with that speed while maintaining stability.
The long term solution is all CPUs/GPUs will be bundled in a complete system build and you just shuck the desired components out like corn from the cob. No returns!
Well I officially started the process to build a replacement for the 2012 i5 build that has served me so well.
By which I mean I ordered a Meshify 2. Since CPUs and GPUs are out of stock everywhere it seems pointless to buy anything else since warranties will likely expire before I can get the rest to make sure it all works.
If I find a 5900x though I'll jump on it and can just ride the 1070 even longer.
Oh wow. I finally have some spare money to buy a decent setup and replace my 10 year old computer aaaannnnnd..... there's a gpu drought.
Should I just start buying the rest of the parts and then wait to see what I can get in the future?
Fry's is the dead man walking of retail everywhere
I remember going to the one in Wilsonville OR back in the early 2000s in it's heyday. It was the only electronics superstore for hundreds of miles and it was AMAZING walking the isles.
Fry's is the dead man walking of retail everywhere
I remember going to the one in Wilsonville OR back in the early 2000s in it's heyday. It was the only electronics superstore for hundreds of miles and it was AMAZING walking the isles.
"Its like TigerDirect but in person!" - 2003 JRX who hadn't used Newegg yet.
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OrcaAlso known as EspressosaurusWrexRegistered Userregular
Fry's was amazing in its heyday. Had to work to not get an open box part, salespeople were a pain in the ass, but the computer parts selection and pricing beat MicroCenter, and there was a huge variety of non-computer but computer adjacent goods you could also buy.
It's sad to see it now, a husk of its former glorious self.
@VoodooV send me your info and I'll Venmo you some ducats. You've gone through a lot of shit lately
I appreciate the offer, but save your monies, friend. That's what's so frustrating about this stuff. In past builds, it wasn't a question of availability, it was a question of scrounging the cash. Now it's the exact opposite. That and acquiring packages securely.
If it makes you guys feel any better, I got "PC Parts-ed" with my new keyboard. The switches, o-rings, and keycaps came today. The main board is roughly 2 weeks away
Oh wow. I finally have some spare money to buy a decent setup and replace my 10 year old computer aaaannnnnd..... there's a gpu drought.
Should I just start buying the rest of the parts and then wait to see what I can get in the future?
The general wisdom has been, in the past, at least, that you want to buy your entire list of parts as close together as possible. Obviously, this is, much more difficult now. That said though, there are some parts that are less sensitive to technology and/or price fluctuations. I bought my case, power supply, keyboard, mouse and some fans months ago. I was somewhat lucky and got my motherboard last week, and my RAM last week as well, mainly because I was fearful of even more price increases down the road. my AIO cooler, and NVMe drives, however I'm going to wait until at least I get my CPU. My workplace has a 2080 that was used by a former employee that is just collecting dust now that I could potentially borrow until I get my 3080. I do plan on splurging and getting some custom CableMod cables, but that's just aesthetics that can wait till everything is done.
Oh wow. I finally have some spare money to buy a decent setup and replace my 10 year old computer aaaannnnnd..... there's a gpu drought.
Should I just start buying the rest of the parts and then wait to see what I can get in the future?
The general wisdom has been, in the past, at least, that you want to buy your entire list of parts as close together as possible. Obviously, this is, much more difficult now. That said though, there are some parts that are less sensitive to technology and/or price fluctuations. I bought my case, power supply, keyboard, mouse and some fans months ago. I was somewhat lucky and got my motherboard last week, and my RAM last week as well, mainly because I was fearful of even more price increases down the road. my AIO cooler, and NVMe drives, however I'm going to wait until at least I get my CPU. My workplace has a 2080 that was used by a former employee that is just collecting dust now that I could potentially borrow until I get my 3080. I do plan on splurging and getting some custom CableMod cables, but that's just aesthetics that can wait till everything is done.
I strongly suspect the wisdom of "Try to buy it all together" is going to go out the window soon, and we'll shift towards "Get what you can, while you can." This goes beyond the scope of the thread, but I fear someday soon China will go "No really, Taiwan is a part of China, we aren't fucking around anymore", and everyone relying on TSMC silicon will be fucked. Which is everyone. China's domestic silicon technology is pitiful, and a strategic shortcoming they are painfully aware of. The shortest path to remedying this, and even turning the tables, is nationalizing TSMC. And then we'll be in for a truly dark time when it comes to consumer electronics. Or perhaps just a reversal of electronics seeming immunity to inflation. Who knows! I'm probably just a crazy person!
In non-conspiracy theory news, I tried the SATA to IDE adapter with my 2004 retro pc. My old intel SSD from 2012 still won't serve as a boot drive. Tried installed Win2K, and the installation appeared to work, but then it wouldn't boot. In retrospect, it's possible my previous installation of Win7 shredded it when a bug in Win7 caused it to constantly fill the drive up with infinite log files. And I didn't notice this for an embarrassing amount of time. My drive was just always full, and I assumed Win7's constant updates had just slowly taken up the entire drive.
Since I was in there anyways, I just took the opportunity to attempt some rudimentary cable management. Ran the 24 pin cable behind the motherboard try. The 4/8 pin CPU connector doesn't really have a path behind the motherboard, but I twist tied it relatively out of the way above the PCI slots. I ran the IDE cable, cumbersome as it is, through a spare drive bay I'm not using. Eh, you know what, lemme grab a picture real quick.
So bluetooth on motherboards is garbage huh? I have a ASUS ROG Crosshair VIII Hero and I was setting up my new Xbox Series X controller which I found out can't go more than 6 inches from the front of the case before losing signal.
Anyone have any experience with bluetooth extenders?
You need to attach the antenna to your motherboard. One should have come with it.
If you don't have an antenna you've got nothing because guess what, your case is a faraday cage which it turns out attenuates electromagnetic signals...like Bluetooth and Wifi.
Checked ASUS's website for the user guide and it looks like no antenna. Guess I'm using a cable, looking online BT extenders are pretty expensive.
xbox controllers have really flaky bluetooth support in my experience. Meanwhile, this tiny little USB dongle gives you the same pairing and 2.4Ghz hardware they put in the consoles.
It works great, and you can support multiple controllers if needed.
Also also, definitely order only from best buy or Microsoft directly - there are a lot of 3rd party knockoffs on Amazon.
Ordered one to try out. Love that's almost half the cost of a controller itself.
I would recommend ording a controller and dongle bundle. Most likley cheaper and you have a spare or something for couch coop. Currently, I use Bluetooth and an XBox controller and I have no problems.
Things to consider:
If you go BT would recommend using the front ports of the PC, because the small BT dongles don't have great signal strengh. If you move the controller between different devices (XBox and PC for example) you most likley have to remove it from the BT system panel in Windows and pair it again. I have the XBox One "Gen 2" Gamepad, maybe the new series X pads are more userfriendly in this regard.
Edit:
Oh, I missed the problem with the half full battery and BT in this thread. I remember this happened during one game I was playing. For me it appeared that the game received a storm of connecting / disconnecting signals repeatedly. Like some sort of "DOS attack" over this interface which tanked the games performance. It doesn't help that some games implement their xbox one gamepad support in a weird way. Like direct input > xinput wrapper or old xinput (Xbox 360 style pad) to new xinput wrapper (Xbox One style pad). (I am looking at you FF13)
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
Started running StreetMerchant locally to look for 5900X/5950X stock. Don't expect to get one any time soon but hopefully I can get one in Q1.
The $100 price increases are very aggravating, seeing it on everything but the reference cards now. I guess I would be angrier if I could actually pay to see one of these things though...
In all honesty, that's probably what they're worth at this point. Like I don't wanna go "lul the free market knows what it's doing" but as well as these cards are selling they probably had no business being at that price point in the first place.
Like, "What would you do for an RTX 3080" could probably work as a game show at this point, and you could get people to do all sorts of self-destructive shit to win.
In all honesty, that's probably what they're worth at this point. Like I don't wanna go "lul the free market knows what it's doing" but as well as these cards are selling they probably had no business being at that price point in the first place.
Like, "What would you do for an RTX 3080" could probably work as a game show at this point, and you could get people to do all sorts of self-destructive shit to win.
My friend is talking about getting a prebuilt with a 2070 super and an i7 10700F for $1300. Bonus points for also using a HDD.
Try as I might, I cannot show him the light.
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jungleroomxIt's never too many graves, it's always not enough shovelsRegistered Userregular
$1300
Woof
+11
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syndalisGetting ClassyOn the WallRegistered User, Loves Apple Productsregular
edited January 2021
So, here's where we may start seeing ray tracing normalize a bit.
The Medium is the first major game targeted at next gen consoles also getting a PC release. Those next-gen consoles have AMD metal in them, so obviously if that was the target, they built the systems out for that.
So with a game that had a dev pipeline with targets of good RT performance on next gen consoles, they are placing the RX 6800 in the 2080/3060 nvidia range, and the 6800 XT against the 3080, insofar as recommended hardware for RT is concerned.
I still believe the 3080 will get more frames, especially if AMD's answer to DLSS remains unlaunched, but that strikes me as a lot better than many would have expected.
syndalis on
SW-4158-3990-6116
Let's play Mario Kart or something...
I was debating on creating a thread about setting up a NAS, but maybe it's better served here for now.
I currently have a retired HP Z420 workstation functioning as a NAS and Plex server. It's been reliably running 24/7 for 4 or 5 years now, but I'm trying to be a little more environmentally conscious and move to something more efficient. I wasn't sure how bad it was until I looked up an old Anandtech review, which showed it burning 90W at idle. Yikes!
I recently picked up an NVIDIA Shield TV Pro, which has had some minor teething issues but seems like it could replace the Plex server role adequately. It's consuming something around 10-20W when serving media and 2-3W at idle. I still need to pair it with a NAS to hold all my media and handle general file storage and backup. I've considered building an rPi NAS or a prebuilt drive enclosure, but I'm curious if I can just build a modern pc that's power efficient enough to be competitive.
Ideally I'd like something that can maintain 20-25W at idle for a pure NAS, which would cut my power consumption in half. If I can build a server I'd be willing to bump that number up a bit, since I could also use it for Plex and leave the Shield as a streaming platform only. Used HP Microservers seem like it might be a good candidate in this area - what do you think?
So, here's where we may start seeing ray tracing normalize a bit.
The Medium is the first major game targeted at next gen consoles also getting a PC release. Those next-gen consoles have AMD metal in them, so obviously if that was the target, they built the systems out for that.
**image snipped**
So with a game that had a dev pipeline with targets of good RT performance on next gen consoles, they are placing the RX 6800 in the 2080/3060 nvidia range, and the 6800 XT against the 3080, insofar as recommended hardware for RT is concerned.
I still believe the 3080 will get more frames, especially if AMD's answer to DLSS remains unlaunched, but that strikes me as a lot better than many would have expected.
This is kind of what I'm expecting going forward.
RT performance will (mostly) get better as we go along.
Posts
I lost the silicon lottery, so only like 1875, but by comparison, it was downclockign to the 1700s when it hit the thermal ceiling
Huh, bummer. Well, on the bright side, even at 1700, the 3080 is pretty awesome, so you have that going for you.
5900x will work in a pinch.
Change your fan curves if they are getting too loud. A lot of motherboards come with really aggressive curves on their PWM headers. Also most motherboards base their fan speed on CPU temp not GPU, unless you're using some other controller mechanism like software or a hardware controller to base the curves on GPU temperature.
78C on a modern GPU isn't really a big deal at all.
Well, on the plus side I'm in the step up queue, so maybe in a year or two I can get a reroll on the silicon lottery....for a couple hundred bucks
...and ASUS's web store is absolute shit.
Anyone know what NewEgg is planning re: their recent tweet? or is it just another case of Lucy pulling the ball away from Charlie Brown at the last minute? my understanding is that they've been teasing a "solution" for months.
Also, what is everyone else doing in regards to buying other parts that are in stock that aren't the CPU/GPU? I've been tempted to pull the trigger on the AIO that I want, but I figure there isn't much point until I get the CPU. Though would it be a good idea to buy a regular air cooler just to have as a backup in case the AIO fails? Same with the NVMe drives. No point in getting them till I have at least the CPU? I did finally get off the fence and purchased the RAM I wanted, but that was only because of the lifetime warranty and that prices have been rising. I did manage to snag the ASUS Dark Hero mobo recently. Damn it's purty.
Enlist in Star Citizen! Citizenship must be earned!
Enlist in Star Citizen! Citizenship must be earned!
I got curious, so I looked at their twitter feed again.
In before the solution is to bundle GPUs with a dozen roses? wtf?
Inquisitor77: Rius, you are Sisyphus and melee Wizard is your boulder
Tube: This must be what it felt like to be an Iraqi when Saddam was killed
Bookish Stickers - Mrs. Rius' Etsy shop with bumper stickers and vinyl decals.
When I first got my founders edition I set it to 850mv and 1860 core in afterburner and power usage dropped between 50 and 70 watts and temps were in the mid 50s while gaming. I adjusted the fan curve to more or less be in line with temp. So 50c would lead to 50% fan usage and so on.
I've been tinkering with it today and I have settled on 2000mhz core set to 900mv. My mem is set to +500mhz. I've run port royal a ton of times and gamed a bunch to test stability and haven't had an issue. Temps are in the low to mid 50s with the same fan curve as before while gaming.
Playing Cyberpunk at 1440p with RT set to Psycho and DLSS on quality and it pretty much stays at 60fps.
Stock Settings and score of 11,234
850mv and 1860 core and score of 11,095
900mv and 2000 core and score of 11,818
I'm going to tinker some more and see if I can lower the core voltage even further with that speed while maintaining stability.
By which I mean I ordered a Meshify 2. Since CPUs and GPUs are out of stock everywhere it seems pointless to buy anything else since warranties will likely expire before I can get the rest to make sure it all works.
If I find a 5900x though I'll jump on it and can just ride the 1070 even longer.
Should I just start buying the rest of the parts and then wait to see what I can get in the future?
http://www.fallout3nexus.com/downloads/file.php?id=16534
Fry's is the dead man walking of retail everywhere
steam | Dokkan: 868846562
I remember going to the one in Wilsonville OR back in the early 2000s in it's heyday. It was the only electronics superstore for hundreds of miles and it was AMAZING walking the isles.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
"Its like TigerDirect but in person!" - 2003 JRX who hadn't used Newegg yet.
It's sad to see it now, a husk of its former glorious self.
I appreciate the offer, but save your monies, friend. That's what's so frustrating about this stuff. In past builds, it wasn't a question of availability, it was a question of scrounging the cash. Now it's the exact opposite. That and acquiring packages securely.
Enlist in Star Citizen! Citizenship must be earned!
The general wisdom has been, in the past, at least, that you want to buy your entire list of parts as close together as possible. Obviously, this is, much more difficult now. That said though, there are some parts that are less sensitive to technology and/or price fluctuations. I bought my case, power supply, keyboard, mouse and some fans months ago. I was somewhat lucky and got my motherboard last week, and my RAM last week as well, mainly because I was fearful of even more price increases down the road. my AIO cooler, and NVMe drives, however I'm going to wait until at least I get my CPU. My workplace has a 2080 that was used by a former employee that is just collecting dust now that I could potentially borrow until I get my 3080. I do plan on splurging and getting some custom CableMod cables, but that's just aesthetics that can wait till everything is done.
Enlist in Star Citizen! Citizenship must be earned!
I strongly suspect the wisdom of "Try to buy it all together" is going to go out the window soon, and we'll shift towards "Get what you can, while you can." This goes beyond the scope of the thread, but I fear someday soon China will go "No really, Taiwan is a part of China, we aren't fucking around anymore", and everyone relying on TSMC silicon will be fucked. Which is everyone. China's domestic silicon technology is pitiful, and a strategic shortcoming they are painfully aware of. The shortest path to remedying this, and even turning the tables, is nationalizing TSMC. And then we'll be in for a truly dark time when it comes to consumer electronics. Or perhaps just a reversal of electronics seeming immunity to inflation. Who knows! I'm probably just a crazy person!
In non-conspiracy theory news, I tried the SATA to IDE adapter with my 2004 retro pc. My old intel SSD from 2012 still won't serve as a boot drive. Tried installed Win2K, and the installation appeared to work, but then it wouldn't boot. In retrospect, it's possible my previous installation of Win7 shredded it when a bug in Win7 caused it to constantly fill the drive up with infinite log files. And I didn't notice this for an embarrassing amount of time. My drive was just always full, and I assumed Win7's constant updates had just slowly taken up the entire drive.
Since I was in there anyways, I just took the opportunity to attempt some rudimentary cable management. Ran the 24 pin cable behind the motherboard try. The 4/8 pin CPU connector doesn't really have a path behind the motherboard, but I twist tied it relatively out of the way above the PCI slots. I ran the IDE cable, cumbersome as it is, through a spare drive bay I'm not using. Eh, you know what, lemme grab a picture real quick.
I would recommend ording a controller and dongle bundle. Most likley cheaper and you have a spare or something for couch coop. Currently, I use Bluetooth and an XBox controller and I have no problems.
Things to consider:
If you go BT would recommend using the front ports of the PC, because the small BT dongles don't have great signal strengh. If you move the controller between different devices (XBox and PC for example) you most likley have to remove it from the BT system panel in Windows and pair it again. I have the XBox One "Gen 2" Gamepad, maybe the new series X pads are more userfriendly in this regard.
Edit:
Oh, I missed the problem with the half full battery and BT in this thread. I remember this happened during one game I was playing. For me it appeared that the game received a storm of connecting / disconnecting signals repeatedly. Like some sort of "DOS attack" over this interface which tanked the games performance. It doesn't help that some games implement their xbox one gamepad support in a weird way. Like direct input > xinput wrapper or old xinput (Xbox 360 style pad) to new xinput wrapper (Xbox One style pad). (I am looking at you FF13)
Like, "What would you do for an RTX 3080" could probably work as a game show at this point, and you could get people to do all sorts of self-destructive shit to win.
https://www.penny-arcade.com/comic/1999/08/11
Try as I might, I cannot show him the light.
Woof
The Medium is the first major game targeted at next gen consoles also getting a PC release. Those next-gen consoles have AMD metal in them, so obviously if that was the target, they built the systems out for that.
So with a game that had a dev pipeline with targets of good RT performance on next gen consoles, they are placing the RX 6800 in the 2080/3060 nvidia range, and the 6800 XT against the 3080, insofar as recommended hardware for RT is concerned.
I still believe the 3080 will get more frames, especially if AMD's answer to DLSS remains unlaunched, but that strikes me as a lot better than many would have expected.
Let's play Mario Kart or something...
I currently have a retired HP Z420 workstation functioning as a NAS and Plex server. It's been reliably running 24/7 for 4 or 5 years now, but I'm trying to be a little more environmentally conscious and move to something more efficient. I wasn't sure how bad it was until I looked up an old Anandtech review, which showed it burning 90W at idle. Yikes!
I recently picked up an NVIDIA Shield TV Pro, which has had some minor teething issues but seems like it could replace the Plex server role adequately. It's consuming something around 10-20W when serving media and 2-3W at idle. I still need to pair it with a NAS to hold all my media and handle general file storage and backup. I've considered building an rPi NAS or a prebuilt drive enclosure, but I'm curious if I can just build a modern pc that's power efficient enough to be competitive.
Ideally I'd like something that can maintain 20-25W at idle for a pure NAS, which would cut my power consumption in half. If I can build a server I'd be willing to bump that number up a bit, since I could also use it for Plex and leave the Shield as a streaming platform only. Used HP Microservers seem like it might be a good candidate in this area - what do you think?
You can't give someone a pirate ship in one game, and then take it back in the next game. It's rude.
This is kind of what I'm expecting going forward.
RT performance will (mostly) get better as we go along.