New misery. Switched to Prusa slicer from Creality slicer to help with some stringing issues, which initially helped but a day later with no change on my part, it's no longer centering prints. Tried Cura slicer and same problem. Went back to creality and its working normally but without the improvement in stringing that using Prusa gave.
The model is centered in the preview in Prusa, but prints in the front left corner. The dimensions are correct in the printer settings. I even tried copying the working gcode from Creality into a Prusa profile but no luck, still in the corner.
Turns out both Prusa and Cura decided I had an Ender 5 Plus instead of a Pro. Fixing that put it back tocentering properly. Still annoying though, especially since Prusa had been working fine.
+2
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
Woo, one of my Starfinder group is getting me a replacement power supply for my Mars!
Gonna print so many spaceships
Not gonna lie, been looking for a hot minute at printing spaceships. I look forward to seeing your results!
Been printing some Elite: Dangerous ships from Kahnindustries. I'll be resizing the medium ones to be smaller and the large ones to be, uh, less large.
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I printed a thing! I needed something to better store my paints, so I printed the below. Pretty happy with it. I'll do at least one more - and maybe a smaller one to hold paint I'm currently using.
IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
edited March 2022
My pickle tray alcohol bath is starting to get saturated with resin sediment, probably because the sun shined on it through my window. What can I do to clean it out? Sieve it through cheese cloth or a coffee filter into another container?
Ianator on
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0
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
edited March 2022
I've been sieving my rinse jar of cleaner plus uncured resin through blue shop towels back into another jar. The blue shop towels are pretty durable and tight weave, and the only thing that really penetrates is the cleaning fluid (LA's Totally Awesome). Then I toss the resin-containing towels in the trash.
Nips on
0
IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
Gonna pick up shop towels later today.
In the meantime, I drilled holes in a model that printed with a big cavity inside. Took an oral syringe, loaded it with IPA, squirted it inside one end and watched a bunch of goo piss out the other So now I've got it draining on a paper towel before I put it in The Oven.
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IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
Isopropyl Alcohol. I just have 70% but I think 91% or a 50/50 blend of the two is preferred.
That said, some India Pale Ale may be called for after a job well done...
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+2
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
Yeah, Isopropyl Alcohol is pretty commonly used as a resin print post-processing cleaner.
That said, IPA isn't the most gentle solvent in the world, so I started out with Simple Green (cleaning prints using Anycubic Eco resin). I've recently migrated to LA's Totally Awesome, undiluted, and it might be a little more harsh but it cleans off excess resin with just a bit of swishing in my cleaning jar.
I miss my ultrasonic cleaner, though; I had a Magnasonic that I was using with Simple Green, and I feel like I was getting cleaner results than my current manual efforts. The problem with ultrasonics though is trustworthiness and reliability. My first Magnasonic died after just short of a year of use, and the eventual replacement did not operate correctly (which is common with inexpensive ultrasonic cleaners). I'd considered moving up to a lab-grade machine for a while, but I'm just not willing to drop the multiple-hundreds of dollars that would ask.
I'm sorry I thought I was in the gunpla thread, carry on XD
0
IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
I'd 3D print Gunpla if I could. Still designing a printable custom mech figure a la Front Mission or Armored Core.
Meanwhile, I've been very busy now that my Mars is running again!
Adding some classic Wing Commander to my growing pile of space fighters. I hope I can find some Freespace models too.
That said, I noticed these failures beginning to appear on my last two print jobs. I drained my vat and found some dried resin on my screen and a mark on the FEP that I can feel from both directions. Think it's time for me to order some new tank bottoms?
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It would be wise to have a few FEP just in stock, it is one of the few fail-able parts. Be very careful when removing resin from the screen itself, a scratch there can be a huge problem going forward.
I really recommend screen protectors for resin machines. You can use overhead projector sheets, they are cheap, reusable until they're actually needed, and don't impact print quality.
0
Dark Raven XLaugh hard, run fast,be kindRegistered Userregular
My Prusa arrived! From the Czech Republic to New Hampshire in 4 days, wow. Only got the frame & Y axis assembled so far but it's already feeling sturdy. Did a little wobble test expecting a mm or so of variance, nope. Seems perfect. :O
Looking on kickstarter, there's a _bunch_ of 3d printers. Not posting links because we're not meant to, but there is a surprising variety of them there.
Anker (yes, the phone battery pack people) have one -- not sure why they think moving at 250mm/second will help because if you can't melt and push plastic fast enough, moving the head around is no good to you. It's also super unclear that it can be maintained by users -- their FAQ says "The machine must be shipped to us to inspect for problems. If we determine there's a manufacturing defect, we will make repairs free of charge. " which is not very useful, and it's not clear if you can even change the nozzle at all. Also, according to an article about this on the verge, ",the hardware is at 75 percent and the software is at 2 percent", which given they're _also_ claiming it has a builtin webcam with image recognition to tell if the print's going wrong, feels a bit iffy.
Wizmaker P1 is another pretty boring-looking one, but "integrated nozzle system" makes me wonder if you can change / clean / do anything with the nozzles if it gets clogged etc.
(and given how often I wind up swapping between .25mm nozzle for detailed stuff / .4 nozzle for general use / .8 nozzle if I just want to make something quick and useful, not being able to swap nozzles feels like a significant loss in functionality)
LUGO G3 / MakerPi P3 / Cetus2 / Rencolor meta are all dual-colour ones of one kind or another.
MakerPi has two separate printheads, which feels like it's going to be mechanically fiddly to get it to all work and be stable.
LUGO/Cetus2/Rencolor all have a single printhead and different approaches to making it work with multiple filaments; LUGO has a two-in-one heat block and touches nozzles against a heated bit of metal to get them to heat up (I think), which seems ingenious but also requires their own custom nozzles.
Cetus2 has some sort of Y-shaped channel in the printhead that filament gets pushed into/retracted from, which feels like prone to clogging / mixing if you're not very careful.
And Rencolor has a two channels _with a stirrer in the middle_ so that you can do colour graduations between the two filaments, which again is ingenious but feels like it could go very wrong and be a real nightmare to clean if it gets clogged up.
I guess the tl;dr is that I don't want to buy a multicolour printer yet because it doesn't seem like there's enough consensus on the best way to do it -- Prusa have yet another couple of approaches where their addon for existing printers retracts the filament all the way out of the print head and then inserts in new filament, and their new model has multiple printheads but it switches between them, so that still isn't stable yet.
So I got interested in this wargame called Sludge. It has infantry three to a base, 40-60mm. I wanted to try proxying stuff before I whip out the glue bottle, so I made a quick thing in Fusion.
Unfortunately you just can't squeeze three 25mm bases onto a 40mm base (damn you, Euclidean geometry), but the 50/60mm worked nicely.
+6
Dark Raven XLaugh hard, run fast,be kindRegistered Userregular
The build is coming along! I'm up to Step 56 of the E-axis assembly for the i3 MK3S+ kit. I'm confused about what the ideal situation is here?
both top and bottom part of the belt should be parallel (above each other)
So going back to the Y-axis assembly, the instruction was just to have the top and bottom of the belt parallel, with the pic showing the belt pressed up to the left side of the pulley and bearing.
Here though, for the X-axis, the pic in the manual shows the belt sat perfectly in the middle of the pulley.
Do I need to have the belt in the middle of both the pulley and the bearing on the X-end-idler, with no movement to either side when the extruder is moved across the axis?
Because I do not seem to be able to achieve that! Been playing with the pulley for a while now and no matter the setting or the tension, the belt seems to want to move over towards the front of the machine when the extruder is rolled left and right.
Here's what mine looks like, for what it's worth -- apologies for the terrible quality, but basically the belt is at the front on the motor side and at the back on the non-motor side and I haven't had any problems:
motor side:
non-motor side:
(edit: thinking about it, the print head position front/back is fixed because it's sliding along the rods, the belt is just there to move it left/right, so as long as it's not too tight or too loose, it shouldn't matter a whole lot if the belt isn't perfectly centered front/back)
Oh, one other thing if you're on that part -- in step 19 in the instructions, their picture has a big loop of the black/red/green/blue cable. I copied that, and later on when I was connecting the cables up to the control board, found out that I'd made that loop too big and the cable wouldn't reach, so I had to disassemble things to make the loop smaller and shuffle the cable along a bit. (not just me, see the comment by 'sannot' in the comments, for example)
You do want a bit of slack, but not as much as is in that picture; the previous step says it's about an inch -- mine looks a lot more like the pictures for steps 30/31:
+1
Dark Raven XLaugh hard, run fast,be kindRegistered Userregular
Yeah, I saw that mentioned in the online manual comments, no worries.
I did however struggle with putting the fan cable in the same wire management channel as that. I ended up scrunching it pretty badly, the outer shell of the fan cable looks pretty banged up in the corners. Really hoping I didn't sever anything in there, but got no real way of testing it until it's all done.
Oh brilliant
0
Dark Raven XLaugh hard, run fast,be kindRegistered Userregular
Had a heart stopping moment where I thought I had indeed fucked the extruder fan wiring, because I misunderstood what the startup wizard was asking. Oof. It's actually OK!
Think I'm gonna take some time off before dialing in the z offset, but it seems to be working, whoooo!
(I can't remember where I originally found it, I think it was an attachment to a forum thread or something and I can't find the same one among all the other 'first layer calibration' files, so I'm just dumping this one on a general filesharing site)
Slice at 0.1mm layer height, then you can do different live Z for half of each square, which is 10 different possibilities with enough filament put down to tell if it's properly smooth or not. I found the Prusa-recommended one goes by too quickly to really tell what's going on.
Oh, and it's worth knowing that the Z offset might be bigger than you expect. For me, it's -1.250 for the textured sheet and -0.970 for the smooth sheet. You almost certainly won't have the same numbers, it's more that I thought they'd be 0.005 or something, so be prepared to make fairly large adjustments when you're homing in on the right height at the start.
Whipped up some simple stress tokens for Sludge. Text just doesn't come out very well at all on that size with an FDM printer, so I went for simple exclamation marks, and made them double-sided with one or two exclamation marks.
+5
Dark Raven XLaugh hard, run fast,be kindRegistered Userregular
Here is ze Benchy (printed from the default files included with the i3 MK3S+)
I think my first layer is looking good! Maybe a little too low, feels like there's a tiny bit of extra material banded around the first layer.
Got a pretty bad layer shift going on tho. Halfway up the body and then again towards the top. That's gonna be an X-axis belt tension issue, right?
I think my first layer is looking good! Maybe a little too low, feels like there's a tiny bit of extra material banded around the first layer.
I normally use the 5-squares thing, fiddle with the Z offset and then run a fingernail over the resulting squares as a guide to how it's doing.
Got a pretty bad layer shift going on tho. Halfway up the body and then again towards the top. That's gonna be an X-axis belt tension issue, right?
https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/layer-shifting_2020 has various things to check; belt tension readings for me are X 279 Y 286, for what it's worth, and also double-check the pulleys are fixed properly on the motor shafts. This forum thread suggests making sure the filament's not getting caught on the spool on the way down, as well.
+1
IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
edited April 2022
Starting the process of replacing the FEP on my Mars. Anything I *really* need to know before/during this process?
EDIT: Already done. That was easy! Sooo many screws tho
EDIT 2: First print. Hooo boy here come the "resin peeling from the film" noises >.>
EDIT 3: Eyy, it works.
So uh, what's the prevailing opinion on having a wider, shallow bowl o' rubbing alcohol that I can just swish the whole build plate in?
Ianator on
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0
IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
Uh oh.
Those black spots are bad, right?
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0
Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
@Ianator, along with Rose's question, what is your curing situation? I leave all my prints on the plate during the initial IPA wash, then break off for a light water wash (gets off IPA wash residue), air dry, then final UV cure. That on-the-plate initial wash generally cleans up 90% of the extra resin since the plate is submerged.
Edit: You can also, generally, get better resin prints by angling the part to the plate. Not that you need to with such a small model, but it can help mute the layer lines.
Anon the Felon on
0
IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
@Ianator, along with Rose's question, what is your curing situation? I leave all my prints on the plate during the initial IPA wash, then break off for a light water wash (gets off IPA wash residue), air dry, then final UV cure. That on-the-plate initial wash generally cleans up 90% of the extra resin since the plate is submerged.
Edit: You can also, generally, get better resin prints by angling the part to the plate. Not that you need to with such a small model, but it can help mute the layer lines.
Wash is just one of those colander pickle jars, too small for the whole build plate. I use my printer's included plastic scraper to unlatch the models by the raft into the bath, maybe leave it for two minutes while I clean and reset, then give the colander about a minute of up-and-down before pulling the models out onto a paper towel to air dry. Scaffold gets pulled off, leftovers get clipped. Models then go into my cure oven: a coffee can with a solar-powered turntable (the table itself is covered in foil because I dunno lol) and a UV lamp, recently upgraded with a can lid I designed and a friend printed for reduced light-in-your-eyes-ness and fall-into-the-can-ability.
I have been angling parts! The spaceships you see above are angled to 67.5 degrees from level which has nicely managed where the inevitable "bees stung my face" texture appears. Other than that, layer lines have been persistent (but not obnoxious) regardless of the angle I use, probably because of the scale I'm working at. Also, if an unseen Battlemaster can have hex textures on its torso armor then my Griffin can get away with its splint mail layer lines.
Anyways, I've watched over a few more test cycles and I am not liking what I'm seeing. The spots in the photo above look a lot like scorch marks up close, which is concerning enough, but the screen test also revealed a sort of "cracking" artifact across the masking layer, consistent with what I'm seeing on my most recent prints. I wasn't expecting my LCD to die before my FEP...
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That happened to my Elegoo Mars. LCD had broken in places. I had to replace it. Wasn't too tricky but was annoying to have to do.
Until then you can of course avoid the bad spots but that reduces your build area obv..
EDIT: I think it was caused by some cured resin being lose in the Vat which was then pushed into the screen when I ran a new print. I mustn't have cleaned it out properly between prints. Always make sure to do it ever since.
Posts
Take 2 is going better
The model is centered in the preview in Prusa, but prints in the front left corner. The dimensions are correct in the printer settings. I even tried copying the working gcode from Creality into a Prusa profile but no luck, still in the corner.
Any thoughts would be welcome.
Some printer models have it at front left, others at the center of the bed.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Gonna print so many spaceships
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Not gonna lie, been looking for a hot minute at printing spaceships. I look forward to seeing your results!
Been printing some Elite: Dangerous ships from Kahnindustries. I'll be resizing the medium ones to be smaller and the large ones to be, uh, less large.
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The blue is the only one I’ve printed anything with so far (just a swatch and filament clip; real print kicks off tonight) but it is *really pretty*.
ED: Not the best picture, 'cause of the motion and compression, but here's a couple layers into my desktop tool holder print:
The edges are just really, really shiny.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E2TDrVKSoJU
It lives!
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SarClqWDwrE
Print two pieces at once: 4h39m
It's magic.
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In the meantime, I drilled holes in a model that printed with a big cavity inside. Took an oral syringe, loaded it with IPA, squirted it inside one end and watched a bunch of goo piss out the other So now I've got it draining on a paper towel before I put it in The Oven.
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That said, some India Pale Ale may be called for after a job well done...
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That said, IPA isn't the most gentle solvent in the world, so I started out with Simple Green (cleaning prints using Anycubic Eco resin). I've recently migrated to LA's Totally Awesome, undiluted, and it might be a little more harsh but it cleans off excess resin with just a bit of swishing in my cleaning jar.
I miss my ultrasonic cleaner, though; I had a Magnasonic that I was using with Simple Green, and I feel like I was getting cleaner results than my current manual efforts. The problem with ultrasonics though is trustworthiness and reliability. My first Magnasonic died after just short of a year of use, and the eventual replacement did not operate correctly (which is common with inexpensive ultrasonic cleaners). I'd considered moving up to a lab-grade machine for a while, but I'm just not willing to drop the multiple-hundreds of dollars that would ask.
Meanwhile, I've been very busy now that my Mars is running again!
Adding some classic Wing Commander to my growing pile of space fighters. I hope I can find some Freespace models too.
That said, I noticed these failures beginning to appear on my last two print jobs. I drained my vat and found some dried resin on my screen and a mark on the FEP that I can feel from both directions. Think it's time for me to order some new tank bottoms?
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I really recommend screen protectors for resin machines. You can use overhead projector sheets, they are cheap, reusable until they're actually needed, and don't impact print quality.
Anker (yes, the phone battery pack people) have one -- not sure why they think moving at 250mm/second will help because if you can't melt and push plastic fast enough, moving the head around is no good to you. It's also super unclear that it can be maintained by users -- their FAQ says "The machine must be shipped to us to inspect for problems. If we determine there's a manufacturing defect, we will make repairs free of charge. " which is not very useful, and it's not clear if you can even change the nozzle at all. Also, according to an article about this on the verge, ",the hardware is at 75 percent and the software is at 2 percent", which given they're _also_ claiming it has a builtin webcam with image recognition to tell if the print's going wrong, feels a bit iffy.
Wizmaker P1 is another pretty boring-looking one, but "integrated nozzle system" makes me wonder if you can change / clean / do anything with the nozzles if it gets clogged etc.
(and given how often I wind up swapping between .25mm nozzle for detailed stuff / .4 nozzle for general use / .8 nozzle if I just want to make something quick and useful, not being able to swap nozzles feels like a significant loss in functionality)
LUGO G3 / MakerPi P3 / Cetus2 / Rencolor meta are all dual-colour ones of one kind or another.
MakerPi has two separate printheads, which feels like it's going to be mechanically fiddly to get it to all work and be stable.
LUGO/Cetus2/Rencolor all have a single printhead and different approaches to making it work with multiple filaments; LUGO has a two-in-one heat block and touches nozzles against a heated bit of metal to get them to heat up (I think), which seems ingenious but also requires their own custom nozzles.
Cetus2 has some sort of Y-shaped channel in the printhead that filament gets pushed into/retracted from, which feels like prone to clogging / mixing if you're not very careful.
And Rencolor has a two channels _with a stirrer in the middle_ so that you can do colour graduations between the two filaments, which again is ingenious but feels like it could go very wrong and be a real nightmare to clean if it gets clogged up.
I guess the tl;dr is that I don't want to buy a multicolour printer yet because it doesn't seem like there's enough consensus on the best way to do it -- Prusa have yet another couple of approaches where their addon for existing printers retracts the filament all the way out of the print head and then inserts in new filament, and their new model has multiple printheads but it switches between them, so that still isn't stable yet.
Unfortunately you just can't squeeze three 25mm bases onto a 40mm base (damn you, Euclidean geometry), but the 50/60mm worked nicely.
So going back to the Y-axis assembly, the instruction was just to have the top and bottom of the belt parallel, with the pic showing the belt pressed up to the left side of the pulley and bearing.
Here though, for the X-axis, the pic in the manual shows the belt sat perfectly in the middle of the pulley.
Do I need to have the belt in the middle of both the pulley and the bearing on the X-end-idler, with no movement to either side when the extruder is moved across the axis?
Because I do not seem to be able to achieve that! Been playing with the pulley for a while now and no matter the setting or the tension, the belt seems to want to move over towards the front of the machine when the extruder is rolled left and right.
Any advice?
motor side:
non-motor side:
(edit: thinking about it, the print head position front/back is fixed because it's sliding along the rods, the belt is just there to move it left/right, so as long as it's not too tight or too loose, it shouldn't matter a whole lot if the belt isn't perfectly centered front/back)
You do want a bit of slack, but not as much as is in that picture; the previous step says it's about an inch -- mine looks a lot more like the pictures for steps 30/31:
I did however struggle with putting the fan cable in the same wire management channel as that. I ended up scrunching it pretty badly, the outer shell of the fan cable looks pretty banged up in the corners. Really hoping I didn't sever anything in there, but got no real way of testing it until it's all done.
Think I'm gonna take some time off before dialing in the z offset, but it seems to be working, whoooo!
https://anonfiles.com/P8F2hbVex5/first_layer_stl
(I can't remember where I originally found it, I think it was an attachment to a forum thread or something and I can't find the same one among all the other 'first layer calibration' files, so I'm just dumping this one on a general filesharing site)
Slice at 0.1mm layer height, then you can do different live Z for half of each square, which is 10 different possibilities with enough filament put down to tell if it's properly smooth or not. I found the Prusa-recommended one goes by too quickly to really tell what's going on.
Oh, and it's worth knowing that the Z offset might be bigger than you expect. For me, it's -1.250 for the textured sheet and -0.970 for the smooth sheet. You almost certainly won't have the same numbers, it's more that I thought they'd be 0.005 or something, so be prepared to make fairly large adjustments when you're homing in on the right height at the start.
Whipped up some simple stress tokens for Sludge. Text just doesn't come out very well at all on that size with an FDM printer, so I went for simple exclamation marks, and made them double-sided with one or two exclamation marks.
I think my first layer is looking good! Maybe a little too low, feels like there's a tiny bit of extra material banded around the first layer.
Got a pretty bad layer shift going on tho. Halfway up the body and then again towards the top. That's gonna be an X-axis belt tension issue, right?
I normally use the 5-squares thing, fiddle with the Z offset and then run a fingernail over the resulting squares as a guide to how it's doing.
https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/layer-shifting_2020 has various things to check; belt tension readings for me are X 279 Y 286, for what it's worth, and also double-check the pulleys are fixed properly on the motor shafts. This forum thread suggests making sure the filament's not getting caught on the spool on the way down, as well.
EDIT: Already done. That was easy! Sooo many screws tho
EDIT 2: First print. Hooo boy here come the "resin peeling from the film" noises >.>
EDIT 3: Eyy, it works.
So uh, what's the prevailing opinion on having a wider, shallow bowl o' rubbing alcohol that I can just swish the whole build plate in?
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Uh oh.
Those black spots are bad, right?
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Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Edit: You can also, generally, get better resin prints by angling the part to the plate. Not that you need to with such a small model, but it can help mute the layer lines.
Wash is just one of those colander pickle jars, too small for the whole build plate. I use my printer's included plastic scraper to unlatch the models by the raft into the bath, maybe leave it for two minutes while I clean and reset, then give the colander about a minute of up-and-down before pulling the models out onto a paper towel to air dry. Scaffold gets pulled off, leftovers get clipped. Models then go into my cure oven: a coffee can with a solar-powered turntable (the table itself is covered in foil because I dunno lol) and a UV lamp, recently upgraded with a can lid I designed and a friend printed for reduced light-in-your-eyes-ness and fall-into-the-can-ability.
I have been angling parts! The spaceships you see above are angled to 67.5 degrees from level which has nicely managed where the inevitable "bees stung my face" texture appears. Other than that, layer lines have been persistent (but not obnoxious) regardless of the angle I use, probably because of the scale I'm working at. Also, if an unseen Battlemaster can have hex textures on its torso armor then my Griffin can get away with its splint mail layer lines.
Anyways, I've watched over a few more test cycles and I am not liking what I'm seeing. The spots in the photo above look a lot like scorch marks up close, which is concerning enough, but the screen test also revealed a sort of "cracking" artifact across the masking layer, consistent with what I'm seeing on my most recent prints. I wasn't expecting my LCD to die before my FEP...
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That happened to my Elegoo Mars. LCD had broken in places. I had to replace it. Wasn't too tricky but was annoying to have to do.
Until then you can of course avoid the bad spots but that reduces your build area obv..
EDIT: I think it was caused by some cured resin being lose in the Vat which was then pushed into the screen when I ran a new print. I mustn't have cleaned it out properly between prints. Always make sure to do it ever since.