So really, the "fake" ones are actually more valuable since there are fewer of them out there and they have the even more limited watermarked letter. Explains why the book wasn't shrink wrapped, which surprised me.
The whole inserted printed letter was already pretty Mickey Mouse as far as indicating a collectible goes.
GW's shipping can be like that too. I always get an email saying my order has shipped, then I get another email 3-5 days later with a tracking number saying my order has actually shipped.
Yeah, FW "shipped" means sent to packaging. I've had this problem as well.
Recently they've told my friend they've "shipped" and then it turned out the order was cancelled due to some problems.
Here is a post by my friend explaining it in his own words:
Apparently at the 11th hour there was a decision about a Chaos Marine watermark. You can see it in the background of the pic that the eBay seller sent me. Then you can't see it in the background of mine. The originals (the one the UK guy has) was already shrink-wrapped into each book. They sent out enough for each country (North America got 400) and GW unwrapped every book, tossed the original card and then put the new one in. I don’t know why they did this. No explanation was really offered beyond “We didn’t like the look of the original card”.
The UK however, didn't bother opening all the copies, they just taped the new card to the outside, leaving the originals inside. So some books have two numbers.
So what am I to make of this?
GW customer service apologized, but made no attempt to rectify the situation. On the phone I repeatedly told them I was not happy with this and all I got was a "Well, your card is the "legit" one and the Ebay seller’s is the old one that should have been thrown out”. But there was no communication on this to people who received two cards. How were they to know which one to keep?
IMO, neither is legit because they knowingly allowed multiple cards to be sent out with books.
These items are offered as limited, numbered editions. This immediately creates a speculators market where people buy these things and attach a secondary value to them as "collectibles". While GW has no stake in this secondary market, they do create it by marketing these items as “limited editions”. I can tell you if this happened in the sports memorabilia community there would be hell to pay.
The fact that GW UK didn't ensure the integrity of the system they created (by selling them as limited/numbered) constitutes a violation of their promissory intent, and in a sense is fraud.
If GW had made some sort of gesture to fix the situation, I would have held my tongue, but they were pretty dismissive of the whole thing and couldn’t really understand why I was so upset.
So, GW says the cards that are only printed on one side are the “legit” ones.
It actually shipped on Oct 5th, in spite of Forgeworld telling me the 1st and conveniently not giving me a tracking number.
I placed a FW order and then tried to cancel it the next day. They said it had already been packed and sacked for shipment. Okay, fine, no big deal, I was waffling on the order, I guess karma says I really wanted it. When it showed up I saw that it was actually shipped 5 days after that email. I checked the packing slip and it was printed and packed on the same day it shipped. I called them on it and it basically boiled down to "oops".
why are you smelling it?
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daveNYCWhy universe hate Waspinator?Registered Userregular
Shut up, Mr. Burton! You were not brought upon this world to get it!
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
That's pretty shitty.
I don't really see anything happening because of it though: Like finecast or annual price increases.
Which is dumb, because the guy shelling out $100 for a book largely because it's numbered is not the guy you want to piss off as he is clearly okay with giving you lots of money for little compensation.
My friend just got off the phone with GW Customer Service for the second time. This time asking about returning it:
I explained to him that I was returning it because I am upset about this situation, not because I don't want the book. Again, he made no offer to rectify it.
They have had two chances to make me happy and they have failed.
He just said I could take it back to the GW store I got it from.
Considering that the limited editions are already being sold for twice the original price on eBay, this is pretty unnerving from the viewpoint of someone who didn't buy one, and I imagine infuriating from the viewpoint of someone who did.
Yeah, returning it is dumb since that forfeits the money he could make on Ebay with it. Really, there's no way to "punish" GW for this, especially since they don't give a damn about it.
Where did he post about it? Considering migrating the story to Dakka for some drama action. :P
The seller of the second #127 codex found his 'real' number in the trash. Turns out he's actually #799 and updated his ebay auction to reflect that.
Still doesn't solve GW's underlying issue. They need to issue a statement that the number on the books may not be accurate. Either contact each person that bought one (since it was only sold online they should have a list) or issue a public statement. Beyond that, I really don't know what they could do.
Did you notice one guy on there has 9 for sale? That's over 2% of a nation's allotment! :P
why are you smelling it?
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
edited October 2012
I will be shocked if they say or do anything at all. I'd wager that there are exactly 998 people who bought that book that have no idea and/or don't care and that's certainly not likely to make GW jump.
They don't really have a good track record (or any track record as far as I know) of addressing shit like this.
Look at their answer to Finecast: throw more at people until they stop complaining then sell new products so literally fill in the gaps in their shitty product.
superhappypandaZug Island Sport FishingSeattleRegistered Userregular
So other than the different cover, the silvered page sides, the bookmark and the numbered card (which I agree is lame, this should have been glued inside the book, not just slid in). Are there any other differences between the CE Codex and the normal one?
-Loki-Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining.Registered Userregular
Yes. That shit.
Also, I have a Tervigon finally coming. I have the urge to do a bit of greenstuff work to make the exit hole where the Termagant is ripping out of the sac into a vagina, because it makes no sense that they would tear their way out.
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superhappypandaZug Island Sport FishingSeattleRegistered Userregular
It's pretty shitty, but it still won't stop me buying the LE version of the Tyranid codex if they do one.
This.
I will fight you over the last one if needed.... and I won't fight fair. But other than that and the SoB book, I don't think I could cough up the extra cash necessary for the LE's.
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superhappypandaZug Island Sport FishingSeattleRegistered Userregular
Also, I have a Tervigon finally coming. I have the urge to do a bit of greenstuff work to make the exit hole where the Termagant is ripping out of the sac into a vagina, because it makes no sense that they would tear their way out.
I may steal this idea... And there will be blood.
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-Loki-Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining.Registered Userregular
Also, I have a Tervigon finally coming. I have the urge to do a bit of greenstuff work to make the exit hole where the Termagant is ripping out of the sac into a vagina, because it makes no sense that they would tear their way out.
I may steal this idea... And there will be blood.
There usually is, a few days a month anyway.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Also, I have a Tervigon finally coming. I have the urge to do a bit of greenstuff work to make the exit hole where the Termagant is ripping out of the sac into a vagina, because it makes no sense that they would tear their way out.
I may steal this idea... And there will be blood.
There usually is, a few days a month anyway.
Those are the games where I will be reprehensibly bitchy for no apparent reason.
Deep strike off the table... It's your fault.
Fail a dice roll... It's your fault.
Flip to the wrong page in the rulebook... It's your fault.
Guy next to me is playing Grey Knights, which I hate... It's your fault.
You need this to use my catalogue I guess. I hope it is working. Let me know if you see major issues. I found one, lord was listed at 60 not 65 base. So go ahead and grab the newer catalog here.
tzeentchlingDoctor of RocksOaklandRegistered Userregular
Possibly of interest to @Extreaminatus, but here's a 2000 point Slaanesh list that I'm kind of grooving to. Might be a little lacking in the ranged firepower I'm used to, but there's possibilities I think and a ton of anti-infantry:
HQ1: Chaos Lord, Mark of Slaanesh, Aura of Dark Glory, Veteran of the Long War, 2x Lightning Claws, Steed of Slaanesh - 150
HQ2: Chaos Sorcerer, Mark of Slaanesh, Aura of Dark Glory, Veteran of the Long War, extra level - 120
Troops:
12 CSM, extra hand weapon, Mark of Slaanesh, Icon of Excess, Veterans of the Long War, 2 plasma guns, Champ with power axe and meltabombs - 306
12 CSM, extra hand weapon, Mark of Slaanesh, Icon of Excess, Veterans of the Long War, 2 plasma guns, Champ with power axe and meltabombs - 306
6 Noise Marines, 6 sonic blasters - 130
6 Noise Marines, 6 sonic blasters - 130
6 Noise Marines, 6 sonic blasters - 130
6 Noise Marines, 6 sonic blasters - 130
Fast Attack:
6 Raptors, Mark of Slaanesh, Veterans of the Long War, 2 meltaguns, Champ with a power sword - 171
6 Raptors, Mark of Slaanesh, Veterans of the Long War, 2 meltaguns, Champ with a power sword - 171
The Sorcerer is in because the Slaanesh psychic powers are the best in the book, and I wanted to take advantage of them. The Lord has a Steed to give him mobility and an extra attack, and because it lets him Outflank with any unit should it be advantageous - probably one of the 12 CSM, but possibly also a Raptor unit or even a unit of Noise Marines for objective goodness. He can also charge out of whatever unit he's in so the enemy can't easily avoid him. The Raptors take care of annoying backfield units while the Havocs mince anything coming into midfield or anything with armor 12 or less. If they errata blastmasters to be taken in squads of less than 10 then I could see adding them into the NM squads for sure.
For 1500 you could probably drop a couple units of Noise Marines, a unit of Raptors, and the Chaos Sorcerer. That's actually 551 points, so alter as you see fit. A Heldrake would not be a bad addition, perhaps in place of a unit of Havocs at that point level.
So, I haven't painted in several years and still have a bunch of the pop-top paints (the ones that came out after the screw-tops that dried up easily) that are mostly dried out. I saw a Youtube video that showed how to "revitalize" them but the last time I tried that the paint was basically no good. Are these paints kaput? If so, what is the economical approach from here? I recall Citadel paints being super expensive but not having any real alternatives when I painted before.
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-Loki-Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining.Registered Userregular
So, I haven't painted in several years and still have a bunch of the pop-top paints (the ones that came out after the screw-tops that dried up easily) that are mostly dried out. I saw a Youtube video that showed how to "revitalize" them but the last time I tried that the paint was basically no good. Are these paints kaput? If so, what is the economical approach from here? I recall Citadel paints being super expensive but not having any real alternatives when I painted before.
There's a few alternatives now.
Formula P3 is Privateer Press' line of paints. I've only used a few, my favorite is Jack Bone - sort of a dirtier Bleached Bone, but gets amazingly good coverage. I've heard their metallics are terrible, however.
Vallejo has Model Colour (things like drab colours for military models), Game Colour (more vibrant colours more akin to Citadels line - in fact, a lot a nearly 1:1 matches to old Citadel paints), and Model Air (designed for airbrushing).
The Army Painter has release a set of brush on paints to accompany their spray primers and dips. Their inks are fucking awesome, though not actually inks, more like GW's old washes.
Reaper has a line of paints. I haven't used them, but I understand they're sold in 'triads', sets of 3 paints designed to be used as base/layer/highlight, which is awesome. A lot of people like them.
All come in dropper bottles instead of pop tops like GW's line, which is super convenient and don't dry out, except P3 which is still in pop tops. All have more in a pot than GW.
GW have a new line out that includes texture paint (for painting bases without actually using basing sand), dry paints for dry brushing (the consistency of mousse), and a base/layer/glaze system sort of like Reapers. They're actually quite good, but they don't match well to the previous colour line, despite what their conversion chart says. They're in tiny bottle now, and still expensive. I still hear GW's metallics are the best, outside of Vallejo Model Air.
I'm mostly a highlight/drybrush painter and I have one Formula P3 that's still intact after several years, so I'll probably go with that. Thanks!
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-Loki-Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining.Registered Userregular
edited October 2012
I do admit, I used to be a mostly drybrush painter. But the system used by GW and Reaper is really convenient for the lazy painters like me.
Find a base colour you like. Find a lighter layer colour. Find a final lighter highlight colour. Find a glaze that is darker than the highlight.
Lay down the base. Lay down the layer, but leave the recesses dark. Lay down the highlight. Glaze. Done. looks far better than drybrushing, and is really easy.
Army Painters lines also make this a shit ton easier. Find a spray primer colour you like. Decide if you want the shading to be harsh or light. Pick Light tone wash, Strong tone wash or Dark tone wash. Prime the model. Touch up with a brush on version of the colour. Pick out details like guns, badges, eyes, etc in the colour you want them. Hit the whole model with their wash. Relayer the base colours again with the colour you primed with, leaving the recesses dark. Mix a bit of white in or find a lighter colour and do a highlight. Done.
I've gotten my Tyranids done using this exact method. I just poorly chose red, which doesn't layer well.
I suppose I should have clarified: I drybrush Nerf guns and highlight minis. edit: I guess I don't know the real name for the technique I use on minis but it's not drybrushing.
Posts
The whole inserted printed letter was already pretty Mickey Mouse as far as indicating a collectible goes.
Recently they've told my friend they've "shipped" and then it turned out the order was cancelled due to some problems.
Here's the link to pictures again.
I placed a FW order and then tried to cancel it the next day. They said it had already been packed and sacked for shipment. Okay, fine, no big deal, I was waffling on the order, I guess karma says I really wanted it. When it showed up I saw that it was actually shipped 5 days after that email. I checked the packing slip and it was printed and packed on the same day it shipped. I called them on it and it basically boiled down to "oops".
I don't really see anything happening because of it though: Like finecast or annual price increases.
Which is dumb, because the guy shelling out $100 for a book largely because it's numbered is not the guy you want to piss off as he is clearly okay with giving you lots of money for little compensation.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Where did he post about it? Considering migrating the story to Dakka for some drama action. :P
Here's the reddit post if you want to just link there.
Comics, Games, Booze
Still doesn't solve GW's underlying issue. They need to issue a statement that the number on the books may not be accurate. Either contact each person that bought one (since it was only sold online they should have a list) or issue a public statement. Beyond that, I really don't know what they could do.
They don't really have a good track record (or any track record as far as I know) of addressing shit like this.
Look at their answer to Finecast: throw more at people until they stop complaining then sell new products so literally fill in the gaps in their shitty product.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
But at the end of the day I don't care that much (as I didn't buy one.)
I've just been posting it around online so the people that did buy one knows what's up.
That's why the numbering fiasco should be such a big deal.
I should point out that the FW Horus Heresy book is the same price and infinitely better in every way (other than collectibility)
I'd buy it even harder if it had a little tub of that green gooey shit they used to pack with toys in the 90's. 'Free biomass included!'.
Comics, Games, Booze
Also, I have a Tervigon finally coming. I have the urge to do a bit of greenstuff work to make the exit hole where the Termagant is ripping out of the sac into a vagina, because it makes no sense that they would tear their way out.
This.
I will fight you over the last one if needed.... and I won't fight fair. But other than that and the SoB book, I don't think I could cough up the extra cash necessary for the LE's.
I may steal this idea... And there will be blood.
There usually is, a few days a month anyway.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Those are the games where I will be reprehensibly bitchy for no apparent reason.
Deep strike off the table... It's your fault.
Fail a dice roll... It's your fault.
Flip to the wrong page in the rulebook... It's your fault.
Guy next to me is playing Grey Knights, which I hate... It's your fault.
First link to my battle scribe game system. As I said I did a little tweaking for HP, should work for any of the catalogues though.
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/44935942/Warhammer 40k.gst
You need this to use my catalogue I guess. I hope it is working. Let me know if you see major issues. I found one, lord was listed at 60 not 65 base. So go ahead and grab the newer catalog here.
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/44935942/Chaos 6th ed.cat
HQ2: Chaos Sorcerer, Mark of Slaanesh, Aura of Dark Glory, Veteran of the Long War, extra level - 120
Troops:
12 CSM, extra hand weapon, Mark of Slaanesh, Icon of Excess, Veterans of the Long War, 2 plasma guns, Champ with power axe and meltabombs - 306
12 CSM, extra hand weapon, Mark of Slaanesh, Icon of Excess, Veterans of the Long War, 2 plasma guns, Champ with power axe and meltabombs - 306
6 Noise Marines, 6 sonic blasters - 130
6 Noise Marines, 6 sonic blasters - 130
6 Noise Marines, 6 sonic blasters - 130
6 Noise Marines, 6 sonic blasters - 130
Fast Attack:
6 Raptors, Mark of Slaanesh, Veterans of the Long War, 2 meltaguns, Champ with a power sword - 171
6 Raptors, Mark of Slaanesh, Veterans of the Long War, 2 meltaguns, Champ with a power sword - 171
Heavy:
6 Havocs, 4 Autocannons - 128
6 Havocs, 4 Autocannons - 128
Total: 2000
The Sorcerer is in because the Slaanesh psychic powers are the best in the book, and I wanted to take advantage of them. The Lord has a Steed to give him mobility and an extra attack, and because it lets him Outflank with any unit should it be advantageous - probably one of the 12 CSM, but possibly also a Raptor unit or even a unit of Noise Marines for objective goodness. He can also charge out of whatever unit he's in so the enemy can't easily avoid him. The Raptors take care of annoying backfield units while the Havocs mince anything coming into midfield or anything with armor 12 or less. If they errata blastmasters to be taken in squads of less than 10 then I could see adding them into the NM squads for sure.
For 1500 you could probably drop a couple units of Noise Marines, a unit of Raptors, and the Chaos Sorcerer. That's actually 551 points, so alter as you see fit. A Heldrake would not be a bad addition, perhaps in place of a unit of Havocs at that point level.
There's a few alternatives now.
Formula P3 is Privateer Press' line of paints. I've only used a few, my favorite is Jack Bone - sort of a dirtier Bleached Bone, but gets amazingly good coverage. I've heard their metallics are terrible, however.
Vallejo has Model Colour (things like drab colours for military models), Game Colour (more vibrant colours more akin to Citadels line - in fact, a lot a nearly 1:1 matches to old Citadel paints), and Model Air (designed for airbrushing).
The Army Painter has release a set of brush on paints to accompany their spray primers and dips. Their inks are fucking awesome, though not actually inks, more like GW's old washes.
Reaper has a line of paints. I haven't used them, but I understand they're sold in 'triads', sets of 3 paints designed to be used as base/layer/highlight, which is awesome. A lot of people like them.
All come in dropper bottles instead of pop tops like GW's line, which is super convenient and don't dry out, except P3 which is still in pop tops. All have more in a pot than GW.
GW have a new line out that includes texture paint (for painting bases without actually using basing sand), dry paints for dry brushing (the consistency of mousse), and a base/layer/glaze system sort of like Reapers. They're actually quite good, but they don't match well to the previous colour line, despite what their conversion chart says. They're in tiny bottle now, and still expensive. I still hear GW's metallics are the best, outside of Vallejo Model Air.
Find a base colour you like. Find a lighter layer colour. Find a final lighter highlight colour. Find a glaze that is darker than the highlight.
Lay down the base. Lay down the layer, but leave the recesses dark. Lay down the highlight. Glaze. Done. looks far better than drybrushing, and is really easy.
Army Painters lines also make this a shit ton easier. Find a spray primer colour you like. Decide if you want the shading to be harsh or light. Pick Light tone wash, Strong tone wash or Dark tone wash. Prime the model. Touch up with a brush on version of the colour. Pick out details like guns, badges, eyes, etc in the colour you want them. Hit the whole model with their wash. Relayer the base colours again with the colour you primed with, leaving the recesses dark. Mix a bit of white in or find a lighter colour and do a highlight. Done.
I've gotten my Tyranids done using this exact method. I just poorly chose red, which doesn't layer well.
That's pretty badass, Bru.