If you solder things more than very very infrequently, a decent soldering station is well worth the expense; I got a pretty cheap one from Amazon a few years ago ('weberdisplays 939D+', which isn't on sale any more, but a bunch of other '939d' models are, that look basically the same), and the improvement over a basic soldering iron is huge, even just how much quicker it heats up, but also the ability to change tips and whatnot.
For what it's worth, when I've made things that need to have something bolt into them, I made a hexagonal hole and jammed the right size of nut in there instead; it's not as elegant as a proper insert but it worked okay.
Oh goodie, found a decently fancy-looking soldering station for about a hundred bucks, that definitely feels worth it. Looks like it's also compatible with the CNC Kitchen insert tips.
I'm finally nearing the point where I have the setup for my Anycubic Mono 4k ready.
I bought it about a year ago, and unpacked it about six months ago.
I knew that it came with a screen protector in the box, but the setup guide wasn't with the box the screen protector was in.
I wanted to prepare the printer last night, so I could hopefully get it printing today.
So the problem is that I followed the guide on how to put on the screen protector, but things didn't quite look as they should.
For one thing, it looked like there was the black edge cover on around the screen, under the top film I peeled off the printer.
I couldn't seem to lift the edge of this edge cover, even with the nail of an ungloved finger, så I decided to not take off anything that might not be designed not to be replaced.
At this point I clean the screen, put on the new protector, and the black edge cover.
I can see a bit of an airgap around the edge, but Anycubics youtube video showing how to do it leaves quite a few bubbles.
Stress of having an unprotected screen no longer exposed to a very curious cat over, I sit and watch the video again and read the comments. And find out it ships with a screen protector in place...
I find the setup guide, that doesn't tell me to put on a screen protector before I begin.
So now I have a printer with two screen protectors on it, with a small airgap around the edge of the top one.
Would you take off the top one, with the chance of damaging the bottom one, before printing?
Or should I be okay, as long at the print doesn't get to the edge of the printbed?
Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately I was impatient so I peeled it off when I got home on Monday.
And then I ran out of energy for the week, and didn't get anything done.
I finally poured resin in the vat a few hours ago, and tried to print the cones of calibration, but when they should the done the build plate lifted and nothing was on it.
I was about to go out, so I left it.
I'm thinking I might need to level the buildplate again, but run the vat cleaning function first, to get rid of any cured resin.
I might have put too much pressure on the build plate, when I tightened the screws, the first time
Edit.
Looking it up a few places, the problem might actually either be that I didn't agitate the resin enough before using it, since it has been sitting on a shelf for a year.
Or that the temp is too low. Atm we have about 14-20C here, and from what people say it needs to be at least 20.
Aparently that is a big problem around christmas when people get a new printer, and then put it in an unheated shed.
Hopefully I will actually get to draining the vat when I get how, so I can clean it and start again with very agitated resin, that have been heated a bit under varm water.
Perhaps I will have some smooth jazz playing in the background, just to be sure the mood is right.
Machinist too, but not a common household tool. I mean, I have a bench top press and bandsaw, but I don't know many people who do.
Highly recommended though, cheap and super useful if you make things.
I've been messing with high durability resin mixes lately and the drillable stuff is super cool. I still print the holes and then tap by hand, but the fact you can bore it without shatter is awesome.
just bought the elegoo neptune 3 pro. i am a complete noob, this is my first 3d printer. got it assembled, did the leveling, and then because i'm an idiot i turned it off while it was hot. i turned it back on and the display screen shows nothing. i finally unplugged the power, let it sit for a good 30 minutes, unplugged and replugged everything and put the micro sd card in and booted it up and the screen is back. lesson learned?
Turning off a hot printer could in theory cause problems with the hot end but I've never heard of it messing with the display. Maybe double check your wiring, make sure cables are fully seated etc
On the off chance that anyone else has Ikea Alex drawers, Gridfinity is a perfect fit with some 1.4mm spacers to get them centered, so the screws in the drawer don't interfere. Easy enough to make a simple spacer to print in PrusaSlicer itself.
Oh yeah, I finally finished a project I had been working on. It's not perfect but I backed a thing on Kickstarter for 3D printed display cases and I made a couple. One I even printed custom design plates for and painted myself! Pretty happy with the results
Have to replace the hotbed on my kobra max, broke something in it removing a print. This is the 2nd in 2 years. I will concede this one may have been me not waiting for the bed to cool before removing the print, but still
So it wasn't the hotbed that broke, apparently there was a fault on the board where the hotbed connects to . Literally burned a hole through the connection point. Anycubic sent me a replacement for free, which was nice. Took almost a month shipping though, and now that Ive installed it, I'm *still* getting the same error. I told them and now they're saying it's the hotbed itself that's bad. The hotbed I installed 6 weeks ago. Very frustrating
I'm still impressed at how handy it is to just be able to summon up bits of plastic on demand -- my CPU fan was getting increasingly rattly, so I got a new one, went to swap the fans over, and realised that the old fan clips onto the heatsink with a custom bit of plastic that's glued onto the old fan:
So I searched up "cooler master 212 fan clip", found an STL, printed off a couple of them to make sure they'd fit:
and once I knew that was okay, re-printed them in PETG because it's a bit more heat-resistent, and voila, new fan installed.
I know I could have just bought replacement clips online, but that would have been more expensive and I'd have to wait for them to get here, this way was basically an hour or so all in and worked just as well.
In less real-world news, Elegoo has a new kickstarter out for a positively ridiculous-sized 3d printer; kickstarter links aren't allowed, but here's the picture, and as far as I can tell it really _is_ this big, it's not some sort of trick of perspective or the like:
It seems like they've just taken a normal 3d printer and scaled up a bunch which, I guess could work? I'm wondering how they can keep it stable at that sort of size, and even if they can do that, prints will take _such a long time_...
But yeah, for a Core-XY format (ie, that style), you can go pretty far by just making the frame bigger, with maybe some more support to keep the rigidity. The biggest issue is probably a heated bed that size, if you want one.
On a bit of a whim I picked up a FlashForge Adventurer 3 pro 2 last night. I really want an enclosed printer so I can make stuff in the winter, and I'd like to get into reliable ABS printing.
My brother was thinking of getting into 3d printing as a money making venture. Printing and painting stuff and then taking it to local cons to sell. I don't have the skill/knowledge yet to really point him in the right direction. Although i did finally realize why i was having such a hard time tramming the bad, my X gantry was horrible out of alignment. Not sure how i never noticed it before but after playing around with the eccentric nuts i got a pretty clean print. Still some issues i am trying to work out but it is definitely clean enough that i would give it away as a gift and not feel shitty.
It's not this guy's primary content type, but he has a bunch of videos of his 3D printing business where he talks about running it as a business. This is a "small print farm" level of business though.
I made a bit of an impulse purchase a couple of weeks ago and picked up a Creality K1 Max. So far, I'm absolutely loving this thing. It's basically Creality's answer to the Bambu X1C and they actually did a GREAT job on it. I just had to unlock root on the Klipper install then install Moonraker / Mainsail and I could set it up in Orcaslicer without any issues. I also ended up picking up the MicroSwiss hotend for it that has the quick-swap nozzles and it just goes. My goal is to avoid doing any tinkering on this one and keeping it basically stock, but it's super nice having another fast CoreXY printer to crank out parts on. I've already run nearly 3 spools of material through it without issues. If you're looking for a (relatively) inexpensive "helmet class" printer then I can definitely recommend looking at the K1 Max.
minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
I also got a new printer recently. Added a Bambu Lab P1S to my workshop during the black friday sale. I actually picked one up at Micro Center and they matched Bambu's sale price, so it actually saved me about $75 in shipping and higher sales tax compared to ordering it direct.
The thing rules. Everyone knows that. Took a couple of tweaks to dial in the temp for my go-to filament, but after that it's been basically perfect, and holy shit is it faaaaaast.
My other main takeaway is that the AMS is the greatest thing ever. Multiple colors in the same layer is really cool, but it’s almost worth it just for the ease of keeping 4 colors loaded and ready to go, since 90% of my printing is in one of the 4 or 5 colors I offer on my Etsy shop. Just wildly convenient. It’s also nice to have something that prints a little bigger than my Prusa Mini. I’m printing off some Honeycomb Storage Wall panels now and it’s great to be able to do 10” squares instead of 7” ones.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
I finished my buddies Alexander the Iron Fist model.
Can anyone point me to a good beginner guide on sanding and painting? I have seen several people in Reddit mention some kind of filler to use as well. It doesn't need to look perfect, and to be honest the model is already so busy the layer lines aren't that noticable, but i would like to touch it up some before painting it.
I also got a new printer recently. Added a Bambu Lab P1S to my workshop during the black friday sale. I actually picked one up at Micro Center and they matched Bambu's sale price, so it actually saved me about $75 in shipping and higher sales tax compared to ordering it direct.
The thing rules. Everyone knows that. Took a couple of tweaks to dial in the temp for my go-to filament, but after that it's been basically perfect, and holy shit is it faaaaaast.
My other main takeaway is that the AMS is the greatest thing ever. Multiple colors in the same layer is really cool, but it’s almost worth it just for the ease of keeping 4 colors loaded and ready to go, since 90% of my printing is in one of the 4 or 5 colors I offer on my Etsy shop. Just wildly convenient. It’s also nice to have something that prints a little bigger than my Prusa Mini. I’m printing off some Honeycomb Storage Wall panels now and it’s great to be able to do 10” squares instead of 7” ones.
Yes! I basically use my AMS the same way...just to be able to have 4 different filament ready to print without having to swap them out. It's awesome!
minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
I wanted a Game Boy ornament for my Christmas tree. Specifically the DMG version. Unfortunately all the models I found online kind of sucked. They’re mostly all either low quality, overly simplified and generic looking, or just slightly off. So I broke out the calipers and my own DMG and got to work modeling an anatomically correct Game Boy.
I think it came out pretty well. I didn’t have quite the right color filament for the AB buttons, but otherwise close enough. It friction fits the parts together pretty well, but can also be glued. If any of you want to print it, I tossed it on my MakerWorld account for free. ( https://makerworld.com/en/u/1562300782 )
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
Did the post-Christmas breakdown of my printer for “scheduled” maintenance. My x-gantry was out of alignment, so that was the biggest pain to fix, but luckily I’d printed some alignment blocks before breaking it down. New nozzle, cleaned out the hotend from some leaked filament, cleaned up the plate.
First (pretty basic) print fails with some of the absolute worst curl-up I’ve ever seen. Like some ridiculously ineffective bed adhesion. Took the bed off, cleaned it again. Put it back on, and same problem. Went to bed rather than messing with it more.
Wake up, smack my head, add one more tick on the ABL’s z-offset, and now we’re flawless.
I purchased a Bambu Labs P1S (with AMS) a little over a month ago. It's pretty neat!
I also greatly underestimated the amount of dialing in settings that would be required from filament to filament. And a bit overwhelmed by the number of settings in general but I'm trying to not let that be a deterrent.
My roommate is interested in doing some more elaborate/decorative prints but has been pretty discouraged by how the overhang has turned out on some of the more complex things I have printed out, like this mermaid statue (0.2mm nozzle, rainbow PLA filament from Sunlu, no support, I forget what the layer height was):
It came out pretty well for the most part, but there are definitely some problem areas (underside of the tail, under the arm, around the chin). Trying to problem-solve this has been kind of frustrating; higher nozzle printing temperature, more cooling, smaller dramatically lowering the printing speeds for overhang sections, etc. None of it has really cleared up the issue*. Maybe there has been some minor improvements. Although, for the sake of not using up a ton of filament, I've been using smaller overhang stress test models like this one (on a 0.4mm nozzle):
I also did another one with support enabled under the 75° section but it had a negligible effect (and, often times on more severe angles, support leaves behind a lot of its own issues when removed). Most of the time these tests seem to validate the 45° rule I've seen around; 3D printing is pretty good up through 45°, but past that it gets hairy pretty quickly.** My roommate is of a mind that the printer should be able to handle the more severe angles, it just requires dialing in the settings even more. It doesn't help when the Sunlu website has two different PLA spec sheets with slightly different temperature ranges and then the spool itself has its own label with a third, slightly different temperature range.
I have two questions for the thread. Is it realistic to expect cleaner overhangs if I can dial in the settings for the filament more adequately?*** And are there any good guides for getting a filament dialed in properly and ready to print in most conditions? I know, broad questions.
The other less overhang-y things we've printed have turned out quite well, so I'm still getting good use out of it. I'm just curious how much further I can take it.
*I'm never really sure if the fan next to the nozzle is working or not. I think this is the part fan.
**It doesn't help that a lot of these tests don't give you particularly clear instructions on what to adjust once you've printed them.
***This would be more like the examples on the mermaid and not the more severe angles on the stress test.
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
So, since you have an AMS, you should try using supports with a very minimal contact distance (the default in Bambu Studio is pretty far away, iirc), but use PETG as the interface layer material if you’re printing in PLA. Or vice versa.
Since PLA and PETG don’t stick to each other, they make a perfect choice for an interface layer. Super easy to remove, and almost zero marks left on the print.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
I just looked at the price of that thing and for how much you paid for it i absolutely think you should be able to get cleaner prints then that. How exactly i am not sure though. As much as it is a hive of villainy your best bet is going to be going to the Reddit for either that brand of printer or just the 3d printer Reddit in general. I will say though that i have Voxelab Aquila that was only 200 when it was new 4 years ago and i can get better overhangs than that on test models. Actual prints can get a bit hairy sometimes but my printer would definitely have done a better job on that test model so something must be off somewhere. Afraid i am too much of a novice myself to offer much support other than running more test models and changing one variable at a time. Maybe slower speed and acceleration? Maybe fiddle with the temp a bit more because it looks like it is not getting good adhesion.
Gamertag: KL Retribution
PSN:Furlion
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
Also, if you wanna link me to the overhang test you used, I’d be happy to run one off on my p1s and see what kind of results I’m getting with my settings.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
So, since you have an AMS, you should try using supports with a very minimal contact distance (the default in Bambu Studio is pretty far away, iirc), but use PETG as the interface layer material if you’re printing in PLA. Or vice versa.
Since PLA and PETG don’t stick to each other, they make a perfect choice for an interface layer. Super easy to remove, and almost zero marks left on the print.
Oh yeah, I had heard about using those two in conjunction with each other but I didn't realize it was because they don't stick to each other. Interesting! I think I have one roll of PETG I could try it with.
I just looked at the price of that thing and for how much you paid for it i absolutely think you should be able to get cleaner prints then that. How exactly i am not sure though. As much as it is a hive of villainy your best bet is going to be going to the Reddit for either that brand of printer or just the 3d printer Reddit in general. I will say though that i have Voxelab Aquila that was only 200 when it was new 4 years ago and i can get better overhangs than that on test models. Actual prints can get a bit hairy sometimes but my printer would definitely have done a better job on that test model so something must be off somewhere. Afraid i am too much of a novice myself to offer much support other than running more test models and changing one variable at a time. Maybe slower speed and acceleration? Maybe fiddle with the temp a bit more because it looks like it is not getting good adhesion.
Ahh, okay. So I should be getting better results. I might dive into the Bambu Reddit. It's just...god damn, there are so many variables to try and adjust. I've gone up to 220° for the nozzle temp but also the overhang speed has been set really slow. I'm using OrcaSlicer because it's supposed to offer a bit more control, but it's still kind of a guessing game.
Also, if you wanna link me to the overhang test you used, I’d be happy to run one off on my p1s and see what kind of results I’m getting with my settings.
Thank you! It was this test. They recommend printing without a top or infill. I couldn't figure out how to not do a top, but I think I found some settings on Reddit that at least reduced the infill. I printed like that the first time and the overhang was really falling apart. I brought back the infill on the subsequent prints and that seemed to at least keep it together, if not still messy.
If it's at all useful, this is the filament I used. The print temp range on that page says 200-210℃ but the spool it came on had a sticker stating that it was 195-205℃. Then there are things like tolerance, print speed, flow rate, etc where I'm never quite sure how many of them I really need to plug in to the filament settings.
I'm also fearful that I've messed around with sooooo many settings that I just need to go back to defaults on a lot of things and start from a fresh slate.
Gim on
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
So, since you have an AMS, you should try using supports with a very minimal contact distance (the default in Bambu Studio is pretty far away, iirc), but use PETG as the interface layer material if you’re printing in PLA. Or vice versa.
Since PLA and PETG don’t stick to each other, they make a perfect choice for an interface layer. Super easy to remove, and almost zero marks left on the print.
Oh yeah, I had heard about using those two in conjunction with each other but I didn't realize it was because they don't stick to each other. Interesting! I think I have one roll of PETG I could try it with.
I just looked at the price of that thing and for how much you paid for it i absolutely think you should be able to get cleaner prints then that. How exactly i am not sure though. As much as it is a hive of villainy your best bet is going to be going to the Reddit for either that brand of printer or just the 3d printer Reddit in general. I will say though that i have Voxelab Aquila that was only 200 when it was new 4 years ago and i can get better overhangs than that on test models. Actual prints can get a bit hairy sometimes but my printer would definitely have done a better job on that test model so something must be off somewhere. Afraid i am too much of a novice myself to offer much support other than running more test models and changing one variable at a time. Maybe slower speed and acceleration? Maybe fiddle with the temp a bit more because it looks like it is not getting good adhesion.
Ahh, okay. So I should be getting better results. I might dive into the Bambu Reddit. It's just...god damn, there are so many variables to try and adjust. I've gone up to 220° for the nozzle temp but also the overhang speed has been set really slow. I'm using OrcaSlicer because it's supposed to offer a bit more control, but it's still kind of a guessing game.
Also, if you wanna link me to the overhang test you used, I’d be happy to run one off on my p1s and see what kind of results I’m getting with my settings.
Thank you! It was this test. They recommend printing without a top or infill. I couldn't figure out how to not do a top, but I think I found some settings on Reddit that at least reduced the infill. I printed like that the first time and the overhang was really falling apart. I brought back the infill on the subsequent prints and that seemed to at least keep it together, if not still messy.
If it's at all useful, this is the filament I used. The print temp range on that page says 200-210℃ but the spool it came on had a sticker stating that it was 195-205℃. Then there are things like tolerance, print speed, flow rate, etc where I'm never quite sure how many of them I really need to plug in to the filament settings.
I'm also fearful that I've messed around with sooooo many settings that I just need to go back to defaults on a lot of things and start from a fresh slate.
Alright, so, I think you should just reset everything to defaults.
I went bone stock with default settings with Bambu’s 0.20mm standard profile on my p1s, and used Bambu’s built in “Generic PLA” profile on this roll of Sunlu I had laying around and here’s what I got.
No top layer, 0% infill.
Looks about as perfect as can be expected. Even the 75 degree is usable functionally, and everything from 70 degrees and under is aesthetically passable.
TBH, this kind of performance has been my experience on almost every filament I’ve run through the P1S. Never touched Bambu’s stock generic PLA/PETG settings, just totally disregarded whatever the filament suggested for temp settings, and I’ve basically never had an issue.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
Posts
For what it's worth, when I've made things that need to have something bolt into them, I made a hexagonal hole and jammed the right size of nut in there instead; it's not as elegant as a proper insert but it worked okay.
I'm finally nearing the point where I have the setup for my Anycubic Mono 4k ready.
I bought it about a year ago, and unpacked it about six months ago.
I knew that it came with a screen protector in the box, but the setup guide wasn't with the box the screen protector was in.
I wanted to prepare the printer last night, so I could hopefully get it printing today.
So the problem is that I followed the guide on how to put on the screen protector, but things didn't quite look as they should.
For one thing, it looked like there was the black edge cover on around the screen, under the top film I peeled off the printer.
I couldn't seem to lift the edge of this edge cover, even with the nail of an ungloved finger, så I decided to not take off anything that might not be designed not to be replaced.
At this point I clean the screen, put on the new protector, and the black edge cover.
I can see a bit of an airgap around the edge, but Anycubics youtube video showing how to do it leaves quite a few bubbles.
Stress of having an unprotected screen no longer exposed to a very curious cat over, I sit and watch the video again and read the comments. And find out it ships with a screen protector in place...
I find the setup guide, that doesn't tell me to put on a screen protector before I begin.
So now I have a printer with two screen protectors on it, with a small airgap around the edge of the top one.
Would you take off the top one, with the chance of damaging the bottom one, before printing?
Or should I be okay, as long at the print doesn't get to the edge of the printbed?
.
Island. Being on fire.
And then I ran out of energy for the week, and didn't get anything done.
I finally poured resin in the vat a few hours ago, and tried to print the cones of calibration, but when they should the done the build plate lifted and nothing was on it.
I was about to go out, so I left it.
I'm thinking I might need to level the buildplate again, but run the vat cleaning function first, to get rid of any cured resin.
I might have put too much pressure on the build plate, when I tightened the screws, the first time
Edit.
Looking it up a few places, the problem might actually either be that I didn't agitate the resin enough before using it, since it has been sitting on a shelf for a year.
Or that the temp is too low. Atm we have about 14-20C here, and from what people say it needs to be at least 20.
Aparently that is a big problem around christmas when people get a new printer, and then put it in an unheated shed.
Hopefully I will actually get to draining the vat when I get how, so I can clean it and start again with very agitated resin, that have been heated a bit under varm water.
Perhaps I will have some smooth jazz playing in the background, just to be sure the mood is right.
.
Island. Being on fire.
Highly recommended though, cheap and super useful if you make things.
I've been messing with high durability resin mixes lately and the drillable stuff is super cool. I still print the holes and then tap by hand, but the fact you can bore it without shatter is awesome.
I'll adjust that and then call this done.
Time to order a new roll and actually keep it in a drybox.
*sticks finger in tray of M3 6mm hex buttonhead screws, stirs around sensually*
Blizzard: Pailryder#1101
GoG: https://www.gog.com/u/pailryder
* - The octopus is borrowed, but I made a plate for him to sit on and out a hex cutout in him to make the positioning work.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
So I searched up "cooler master 212 fan clip", found an STL, printed off a couple of them to make sure they'd fit:
and once I knew that was okay, re-printed them in PETG because it's a bit more heat-resistent, and voila, new fan installed.
I know I could have just bought replacement clips online, but that would have been more expensive and I'd have to wait for them to get here, this way was basically an hour or so all in and worked just as well.
It seems like they've just taken a normal 3d printer and scaled up a bunch which, I guess could work? I'm wondering how they can keep it stable at that sort of size, and even if they can do that, prints will take _such a long time_...
But yeah, for a Core-XY format (ie, that style), you can go pretty far by just making the frame bigger, with maybe some more support to keep the rigidity. The biggest issue is probably a heated bed that size, if you want one.
PSN:Furlion
https://www.youtube.com/@ShopNation
For your own Steam Signature visit https://alabasterslim.com/steam-signatures/
Guild Wars 2: Kendrik.5984
The thing rules. Everyone knows that. Took a couple of tweaks to dial in the temp for my go-to filament, but after that it's been basically perfect, and holy shit is it faaaaaast.
My other main takeaway is that the AMS is the greatest thing ever. Multiple colors in the same layer is really cool, but it’s almost worth it just for the ease of keeping 4 colors loaded and ready to go, since 90% of my printing is in one of the 4 or 5 colors I offer on my Etsy shop. Just wildly convenient. It’s also nice to have something that prints a little bigger than my Prusa Mini. I’m printing off some Honeycomb Storage Wall panels now and it’s great to be able to do 10” squares instead of 7” ones.
Can anyone point me to a good beginner guide on sanding and painting? I have seen several people in Reddit mention some kind of filler to use as well. It doesn't need to look perfect, and to be honest the model is already so busy the layer lines aren't that noticable, but i would like to touch it up some before painting it.
PSN:Furlion
Yes! I basically use my AMS the same way...just to be able to have 4 different filament ready to print without having to swap them out. It's awesome!
For your own Steam Signature visit https://alabasterslim.com/steam-signatures/
Guild Wars 2: Kendrik.5984
I think it came out pretty well. I didn’t have quite the right color filament for the AB buttons, but otherwise close enough. It friction fits the parts together pretty well, but can also be glued. If any of you want to print it, I tossed it on my MakerWorld account for free. ( https://makerworld.com/en/u/1562300782 )
First (pretty basic) print fails with some of the absolute worst curl-up I’ve ever seen. Like some ridiculously ineffective bed adhesion. Took the bed off, cleaned it again. Put it back on, and same problem. Went to bed rather than messing with it more.
Wake up, smack my head, add one more tick on the ABL’s z-offset, and now we’re flawless.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
I also greatly underestimated the amount of dialing in settings that would be required from filament to filament. And a bit overwhelmed by the number of settings in general but I'm trying to not let that be a deterrent.
My roommate is interested in doing some more elaborate/decorative prints but has been pretty discouraged by how the overhang has turned out on some of the more complex things I have printed out, like this mermaid statue (0.2mm nozzle, rainbow PLA filament from Sunlu, no support, I forget what the layer height was):
It came out pretty well for the most part, but there are definitely some problem areas (underside of the tail, under the arm, around the chin). Trying to problem-solve this has been kind of frustrating; higher nozzle printing temperature, more cooling, smaller dramatically lowering the printing speeds for overhang sections, etc. None of it has really cleared up the issue*. Maybe there has been some minor improvements. Although, for the sake of not using up a ton of filament, I've been using smaller overhang stress test models like this one (on a 0.4mm nozzle):
I also did another one with support enabled under the 75° section but it had a negligible effect (and, often times on more severe angles, support leaves behind a lot of its own issues when removed). Most of the time these tests seem to validate the 45° rule I've seen around; 3D printing is pretty good up through 45°, but past that it gets hairy pretty quickly.** My roommate is of a mind that the printer should be able to handle the more severe angles, it just requires dialing in the settings even more. It doesn't help when the Sunlu website has two different PLA spec sheets with slightly different temperature ranges and then the spool itself has its own label with a third, slightly different temperature range.
I have two questions for the thread. Is it realistic to expect cleaner overhangs if I can dial in the settings for the filament more adequately?*** And are there any good guides for getting a filament dialed in properly and ready to print in most conditions? I know, broad questions.
The other less overhang-y things we've printed have turned out quite well, so I'm still getting good use out of it. I'm just curious how much further I can take it.
*I'm never really sure if the fan next to the nozzle is working or not. I think this is the part fan.
**It doesn't help that a lot of these tests don't give you particularly clear instructions on what to adjust once you've printed them.
***This would be more like the examples on the mermaid and not the more severe angles on the stress test.
Since PLA and PETG don’t stick to each other, they make a perfect choice for an interface layer. Super easy to remove, and almost zero marks left on the print.
PSN:Furlion
Oh yeah, I had heard about using those two in conjunction with each other but I didn't realize it was because they don't stick to each other. Interesting! I think I have one roll of PETG I could try it with.
Ahh, okay. So I should be getting better results. I might dive into the Bambu Reddit. It's just...god damn, there are so many variables to try and adjust. I've gone up to 220° for the nozzle temp but also the overhang speed has been set really slow. I'm using OrcaSlicer because it's supposed to offer a bit more control, but it's still kind of a guessing game.
Thank you! It was this test. They recommend printing without a top or infill. I couldn't figure out how to not do a top, but I think I found some settings on Reddit that at least reduced the infill. I printed like that the first time and the overhang was really falling apart. I brought back the infill on the subsequent prints and that seemed to at least keep it together, if not still messy.
I've also used this other test before with similar results.
If it's at all useful, this is the filament I used. The print temp range on that page says 200-210℃ but the spool it came on had a sticker stating that it was 195-205℃. Then there are things like tolerance, print speed, flow rate, etc where I'm never quite sure how many of them I really need to plug in to the filament settings.
I'm also fearful that I've messed around with sooooo many settings that I just need to go back to defaults on a lot of things and start from a fresh slate.
Alright, so, I think you should just reset everything to defaults.
I went bone stock with default settings with Bambu’s 0.20mm standard profile on my p1s, and used Bambu’s built in “Generic PLA” profile on this roll of Sunlu I had laying around and here’s what I got.
No top layer, 0% infill.
Looks about as perfect as can be expected. Even the 75 degree is usable functionally, and everything from 70 degrees and under is aesthetically passable.
TBH, this kind of performance has been my experience on almost every filament I’ve run through the P1S. Never touched Bambu’s stock generic PLA/PETG settings, just totally disregarded whatever the filament suggested for temp settings, and I’ve basically never had an issue.
Say, how do you set the infill and top layers?